EV Digest 4802
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Need advice on a Porsche conversion candidate
by Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) was / Re: SOC/ water pump
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: wheels tires
by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Need advice on a Porsche conversion candidate
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Need advice on a Porsche conversion candidate
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) =?Windows-1252?Q?Re:_article:_Honda=92s_E4-01_Concept_bike_=96_is_this_?=
=?Windows-1252?Q?Honda=92s_electric_bike=3F?=
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: [Evtech] I'm Back & Looking for new hi-tech batteries
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Battery Isolator
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
9) Re: TN EV buses on eBay
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
10) Re: Details of the Lee Hart Zener-Lamp regulator
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Ranger EV
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
12) Re: Cruise control in EVision
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Rear battery box & hitch nearly complete!
by "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Increasing charging current of Cheap 12 volt switched charger
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) MagneCharger inlet on eBay
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
16) Re: Increasing charging current of Cheap 12 volt switched charger
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
17) RE: was / Re: SOC/ water pump
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Details of the Lee Hart Zener-Lamp regulator
by "John Luck Home" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: Need advice on a Porsche conversion candidate
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Another conversion candidate (in Texas)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
21) Convertible Bug candidate in PA
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
22) value of S-10
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
23) Re: Solectria E-10 stalling
by Aaron NMLUG-EV <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Details of the Lee Hart Zener-Lamp regulator
by "Tim Stephenson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: 12V parts misused, was: Re: Battery Isolator
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Details of the Lee Hart Zener-Lamp regulator
by "John Luck Home" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: 12V parts misused, was: Re: Battery Isolator
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: s-10 value
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
29) Re: value of S-10
by Mark Hastings <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Underestimated public reaction
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) RE: s-10 value
by "Adams, Lynn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Re: Increasing charging current of Cheap 12 volt switched charger
by Robert Baertsch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
The key word here is "Targa" as in, no roof. I have a bias, but I
wouldn't convert a car and make it heavier, knowing that it was the
weakest variant of that model.
Just an opinion
Seth
P.S. go for the 944
On 10/6/05, Nick 'Sharkey' Moore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On 2005-10-06, David Dymaxion wrote:
> >
> > Most cars you worsen the weight distribution when converting (car
> > becomes more tail heavy). In this case you'd probably make the car
> > less tail heavy.
> [...]
> > RWD and rear weight bias makes for less safe street handling.
>
> You could correct this pretty easily by putting some of the lead
> up front, though, couldn't you? I've never looked under the hood
> of such a thing, but I'm assuming there's luggage space up there
> in the nose ...
>
> -----sharks
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Poulsen" < .
The 12v battery voltage dipped and the inverter shut its self off. I'm
using a 12v electric fuel pump now .
Is there any concern about corrosion when using water in a fuel pump?
What pump did you end up using?
I'm not sure this is the best pump but I needed something right then and got
it at the discount auto store , It kind of looks like a transformer , square
with 2 ears for mounting , ran about $30 ,it works with a diaphragm I
believe . I am going to put some anti freeze in place of the water as this
should help keep it form corrosion and oil it some . a RV water pump might
work good also .
Steve clunn.
bet I miss spelled di a fram
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The effect of the rotating mass of a wheel is pretty small - generally about
a third of the wheel weight. As an example, if you took three pounds out of
a wheel ( by going to a lighter wheel) it would be equivalent,
acceleration-wise ( or braking-wise) to taking about 4 pounds out of your
trunk. (You would save the three pounds of wheel weight reduction, and
about 1 more pound of equivalent mass - 4 pounds total)
That extra pound is only for acceleration - not hill climbing or cruising at
a steady speed. So, for climbing hills ( or, for calculating the extra tire
rolling resistance) that 3 pound lighter wheel would have the same effect as
just three pounds out of your trunk.
The bottom line is - going to lighter, more expensive wheels to improve "
efficiency" does not give you much bang for your buck.
If you don't already have LRR tires, that should be your next step.
They would significantly iimprove your efficiency for all conditions : you
would end up with more range, longer battery life (due to lower depth of
discharge for the same trip) , and marginally better acceleration.
Phil
From: Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: wheels tires
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2005 20:38:25 -0500
mike golub wrote:
> Are those alloy rims just a cosmetic thing?
Forged aluminum wheels are much lighter then typical stock cast
aluminum ones. Light weight wheels help with acceleration and
braking.
Imagine something very heavy that was spinning and you were going to
attempt to stop it with your hands. Now imagine if it was extremely
light.
Same goes for getting a heavy wheel up to speed fast or getting a
light one up to speed fast.
_________________________________________________________________
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Dymaxion"
I'm in the process of converting a 1977 Porsche 911.
I've done a 68 912 which later got a fiber glass 959 body put on it , there
was lots of room for batteries , and in the end with 13 orbitals it weighted
2450 , and went very well , I have a 83 924 , which is a bit heaver but
also has lots of room for batteries ,
Light, small, aerodynamic, big brakes, yet a good amount of room for
batteries.
The aerodynamics are very noticable , where most all ev's I've had it would
take a lot more power to go 60 that 50 mph but my 924 dose not use the 1/3
more power that most seem to . ,
RWD and rear weight bias makes for less safe street handling.
just put more batteries in the front , .
steve clunn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EVList" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: Need advice on a Porsche conversion candidate
I too am converting a Porsche and > power
steering pump and AC compressor with a small treadmill motor.
I tried a few motors for the steering pump on the 300zx and found that when
truning the wheel with the car stopped the pump would stop the small motors
, I was putting 48v @ 50 amps into one and still the power steering pump
would stall it . I had thing geared down to , the pump didn't need to trun
to fast to work but it did need alot of toque , I can't see a treadmill
motor doing it even geared way down. I ended up hooking it to the tail shaft
of the 9" motor and that worked good , when at a dead stop you can push the
clutch in , a little go pedle and you have steering , once the car is
moving it seems to work fine.
I'm actually picking up a second 944 this weekend. I found one with a
blown engine for under $1300. Keep in mind these are pretty aerodynamic
cars without a spec of rust. They are solid and will have no problem
handling the extra weight.
yep , thats what I found .
steve clunn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Looks a lot like a Helix. With 200cc performance it aught to do Freeway
speeds ok. The Helix had 250cc motor. I could do 75 all day. Real comfy to
ride too. LR...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Wujek" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 6:46 PM
Subject: article: Honda’s E4-01 Concept bike – is this Honda’s electric
bike?
Possible Honda EV bike:
http://www.gizmag.com/go/4712/
--
Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'll sell half (100 or so) or the whole lot of 200 give a few like 210. Have
to do an inventory. 680 pounds. With a Zilla and a Metro you could have
some real fun. LR.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Seth Allen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Evtech] I'm Back & Looking for new hi-tech batteries
$8000 will get you about 19 6V Saft NiCads of 100Ah capacity. But there
might be other options from them. Did Lawrence Rhodes sell his 40Ah
nicads?
GP makes nice NIMH. They might even be cheaper than SAFT. In a variety of
EV sized from 10Ah to 80 and 100Ah. Ocean freight won't be cheap, but at
least you don't have to do the Panama canal.
Seth
On Oct 6, 2005, at 6:20 PM, Jonathan "Sheer" Pullen wrote:
Well, First of all, let me say that I'm back - did you all miss me?
Until fairly recently, both qm and my Rad2Go were reliable electric
transportation*, and I was too busy with other things to do much EV
work. However, in the last few weeks, the battery pack on QM has
declined in storage capacity and reliability enormously. First one
battery, then many dropped from 12 to 10 volts, as if dendrite formation
had shorted out cells.
For those of you not familiar with QM, it is a AC drive Honda Accord
that was powered by NiZn batteries known as 'Evercells'. The company
that made these is no longer in business, so I am looking for another
nickel-based pack as a replacement.
I would like to use either NiCad or NiMH - or possibly, if the price is
right, LiPoly or Lion. I'm budgeting about $8k for this pack
replacement, and I'd like to use something that's likely to last more
than three years.
Any and all suggestions welcome.
* = [it should be noted here that both have had downtime for various
repairs and replacements.. the Rad2Go has had the throttle assembly and
headlight replaced and the motor controller repaired. ]
_______________________________________________
Evtech mailing list
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://mailman.evtech.org/mailman/listinfo/evtech
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<<<<I bought a cheap battery isolator, looks like a big red key switch. Big
terminsla. Rated at 200A continuous and 500A surge. It is for 12 volt but I
wanted it to have it in series with my battery string so that I can pull the
plug if something goes wrong.>>>>
Interestingly enough, the Kewets imported to the US got these "big red plastic
key" disconnect switches for their 48V system (at least both the ones I've
owned), but I doubt they are meant to be used as a disconnect under any load.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<<<<This is the junk from AVS that I mentioned earlier in the yard not far
away. It looks a LOT better in the photos than it does up close. I'd
give some serious thought before I paid any serious money for this
stuff. This is the residue that he couldn't get rid of any other way.>>>>
Yes, but the current bid is awefully low - if you're close enough and have room
to park them, you could at least recycle the unneeded sheetmetal for salvage
and still get some useful EV stuff out of them.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Lee, I am really impressed with the elegance of the zener-lamp
> battery regulator (while understandfing its limitations).
> I'm going to make a few for a variety of uses as a first step.
> My question is this: Should the zeners be sunk down into the
> lug/heatsinks?
Yes; at least that's how I'm doing it. I use 5 watt zeners, and they
will overheat if you don't heatsink them somehow. So I use "heavy duty"
copper ring terminals, sized to fit on a 5/16" bolt and for a #4 wire.
The body of the zener goes entirely inside the terminal where the #4
wire would normally get crimped. I solder one zener wire to the ring
terminal, the other to a short length of hookup wire, then pot it with
thermally conductive epoxy, and finally put heat shrink tubing over it.
The resulting assembly is waterproof and acid-proof. The ring terminal
(and battery terminal it is bolted to) serves as the heatsink for the
zener.
> Also - are there any picture of the completed units
> on the net anywhere for viewing?
Hmm... I don't know of any. Any of you guys that have them have a
digital camera?
--
"One doesn't discover new lands without consenting to lose sight of the
shore for a very long time." -- Andre Gide
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Any listee gotten "the letter" from Ford about the Ranger EV? I'm "in the
yellow" on the list, but won't know if it will be the lead or NiMH version.
They only guarantee at least 30mi range, but not the type. The NiMH version
would probably do quite a bit better than that, even with plenty of mileage on
it (I had full range after 36K miles of use). Refurbed trucks do not come with
any warrantee, but Blue Sky Motors is only 35-40mi away.
Here's their site: www.RangerEVLottery.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://cafeelectric.com/products/accessories.html
At the bottom of the page.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Victor Tikhonov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: Cruise control in EVision
> Have no idea what HEPA pedal is. Got link?
>
> Victor
>
> Rush wrote:
>> Does this mean that it will also work for the HEPA pedals which Otmar sells?
>>
>> Rush
>> Tucson AZ
>> www.ironandwood.org
>
> --
> Victor
> '91 ACRX - something different
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well thanks to the welding department at my school my rear class IV hitch,
battery frame and box are nearly done! I will probably weld in the frame
this weekend. Should hold quite a few batteries and keep my trunk intact
for other use as well. I took a different approach and designed a
removable battery box..
Comments appreciated as always..
Mark Ward
St. Charles, MO
95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"
www.saabrina.blogspot.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
Upon reading a few articles regarding chargers I came to the conclusion that
there might be a possibility to increase the current output of my cheap 12
volt charger.
Something like putting a higher rated amperage mosfet and shokkty diode in
parallel with the original ones apparently
Has anyone heard of this??
Cheers
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8005594631
May not be all you need on-board...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<<<<Upon reading a few articles regarding chargers I came to the conclusion that
there might be a possibility to increase the current output of my cheap 12
volt charger.
Something like putting a higher rated amperage mosfet and shokkty diode in
parallel with the original ones apparently>>>>
I haven't explored this, but you might be able to glean something useful here:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/homepage.htm (there is a
high current regulated power supply listed)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Steve,
You lose - it was correct ;-)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diaphragm
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of STEVE CLUNN
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 7:43 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: was / Re: SOC/ water pump
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Poulsen" < .
>> The 12v battery voltage dipped and the inverter shut its self off. I'm
>> using a 12v electric fuel pump now .
>>
> Is there any concern about corrosion when using water in a fuel pump?
> What pump did you end up using?
>
>
I'm not sure this is the best pump but I needed something right then and got
it at the discount auto store , It kind of looks like a transformer , square
with 2 ears for mounting , ran about $30 ,it works with a diaphragm I
believe . I am going to put some anti freeze in place of the water as this
should help keep it form corrosion and oil it some . a RV water pump might
work good also .
Steve clunn.
bet I miss spelled di a fram
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Oh come on............... please share what this is. All I have gotten from
the list is "Kluge"'s post and your reply Lee. Did I miss the original post.
What is the Lee Hart Zener lamp regulator ???
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: Details of the Lee Hart Zener-Lamp regulator
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > Lee, I am really impressed with the elegance of the zener-lamp
> > battery regulator (while understandfing its limitations).
> > I'm going to make a few for a variety of uses as a first step.
> > My question is this: Should the zeners be sunk down into the
> > lug/heatsinks?
>
> Yes; at least that's how I'm doing it. I use 5 watt zeners, and they
> will overheat if you don't heatsink them somehow. So I use "heavy duty"
> copper ring terminals, sized to fit on a 5/16" bolt and for a #4 wire.
> The body of the zener goes entirely inside the terminal where the #4
> wire would normally get crimped. I solder one zener wire to the ring
> terminal, the other to a short length of hookup wire, then pot it with
> thermally conductive epoxy, and finally put heat shrink tubing over it.
> The resulting assembly is waterproof and acid-proof. The ring terminal
> (and battery terminal it is bolted to) serves as the heatsink for the
> zener.
>
> > Also - are there any picture of the completed units
> > on the net anywhere for viewing?
>
> Hmm... I don't know of any. Any of you guys that have them have a
> digital camera?
> --
> "One doesn't discover new lands without consenting to lose sight of the
> shore for a very long time." -- Andre Gide
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.13/123 - Release Date:
06/10/2005
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Solectria makes the BPM3-72V motor that is specifically designed to run a
power steering pump. If you want to maximize efficiency then connect it
directly to the pump instead of with a pulley and a belt. They also offer a
120V version of the motor if you want to run it off the pack instead of its
own batteries. What I would do is wire a contactor between 120V of your
main pack and the motor and rig a dash switch to turn on the pump when you
need it so it isn't running while you are driving.
-----Original Message-----
From: STEVE CLUNN [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 10:32 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Need advice on a Porsche conversion candidate
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EVList" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: Need advice on a Porsche conversion candidate
>I too am converting a Porsche and > power
> steering pump and AC compressor with a small treadmill motor.
>
I tried a few motors for the steering pump on the 300zx and found that when
truning the wheel with the car stopped the pump would stop the small motors
, I was putting 48v @ 50 amps into one and still the power steering pump
would stall it . I had thing geared down to , the pump didn't need to trun
to fast to work but it did need alot of toque , I can't see a treadmill
motor doing it even geared way down. I ended up hooking it to the tail shaft
of the 9" motor and that worked good , when at a dead stop you can push the
clutch in , a little go pedle and you have steering , once the car is
moving it seems to work fine.
> I'm actually picking up a second 944 this weekend. I found one with a
> blown engine for under $1300. Keep in mind these are pretty aerodynamic
> cars without a spec of rust. They are solid and will have no problem
> handling the extra weight.
>
yep , thats what I found .
steve clunn
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4578934105
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4580096438
Everything that is missing is also sold as fiberglass (lighter?)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Greetings from a lurker-
I have been given the opportunity to buy a GM S-10 pickup with only 3500
miles on it. I have absolutely no idea whether or not it runs, or what shape
the battery pack is in, but I do know that the body looks just like a 3500
mile
body should. My questions are: What can I expect to have to pay for this
truck, is it a good first EV for a duffer, and is it easily repairable by a
Sunday mechanic.
Thanks for your assistance,
Bruce McClure
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Thu, 2005-10-06 at 08:15, Jacob wrote:
> Have any of you E-10 or Force owners ever experienced stalling while
> accelerating into traffic or going up mild inclined hills? Yes,
complete
> stalling - this can be very dangerous and is what I'm dealing with.
When it
> stalls, I can get it going again right away usually if I switch the
console
> to neutral, turn off the key and back on again and then put it back in
> forward again. Do think this is a POT or motor controller issue or
something
> else? Currently I'm just driving it with one controller and motor as
the
> other side controller is removed for (hopeful) repair.
>
> Thanks..Jacob Harris
I have this now, and have not fixed it yet.
I'm still looking.
The most common cause is a bad main contactor. It suddenly opens.
However, I think I can still hear the contactor click.
I have NOT opened the inverter yet to double-check that I can see it.
In my case, I still have a suspiscion that it is wiring someplace
else causing an interlock to fail.
I have the old Brusa AMC300 inverter. Newer inverters are likely
to be different.
--
Aaron Birenboim \ I have an inferiority complex,
Albuquerque, NM, USA \ but its not a very good one.
aaron at birenboim.com \
http://aaron.birenboim.com \
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is from Don Cameron's site
(http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_BatteryManagementSystems.html ) -
thanks!
Lee Hart's Shunt Type Battery Balancer
Here is one possibility [for a shunt type battery balancer - ed]. Strangely
enough, it is currently in my own EV, since I sold its Balancer to Rick
Woodbury.
Each battery has a regulator which consists of
2 - ring terminal, with hole for 5/16" bolt, and crimp for #6 wire
2 - 6.8v 5watt zener diodes
1 - #PR2 flashlight bulb
Solder a zener diode into each ring terminal where the wire normally goes.
Solder a 6" piece of wire to the other end of the zener diode. Solder the
flashlight bulb between the free ends of these two wires. Now you have the
two zeners and flashlight bulb all wired in series.
Fill the space between the zener and ring terminal with epoxy glue.
Likewise, dunk the bulb and its wires in epoxy glue. This makes everything
waterproof and acid proof, and helps conduct heat. The zeners get their
heatsinking from the large ring terminals and battery posts they are bolted
to.
Put one of these circuits across every 12v battery. If the charging voltage
exceeds about 13.6v, the zeners begin to conduct and the lamp lights. At
about 15v, the lamp is fully lit and is bypassing about 0.5 amps.
Use a photocell to detect the light being produced. When any of these
battery regulators lights, the photocell sees it and either switches the
charger off, or to a low-current trickle charge or float voltage setting.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Luck Home" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 3:42 AM
Subject: Re: Details of the Lee Hart Zener-Lamp regulator
> Oh come on............... please share what this is. All I have gotten
from
> the list is "Kluge"'s post and your reply Lee. Did I miss the original
post.
> What is the Lee Hart Zener lamp regulator ???
>
>
> John
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 6:56 AM
> Subject: Re: Details of the Lee Hart Zener-Lamp regulator
>
>
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > > Lee, I am really impressed with the elegance of the zener-lamp
> > > battery regulator (while understandfing its limitations).
> > > I'm going to make a few for a variety of uses as a first step.
> > > My question is this: Should the zeners be sunk down into the
> > > lug/heatsinks?
> >
> > Yes; at least that's how I'm doing it. I use 5 watt zeners, and they
> > will overheat if you don't heatsink them somehow. So I use "heavy duty"
> > copper ring terminals, sized to fit on a 5/16" bolt and for a #4 wire.
> > The body of the zener goes entirely inside the terminal where the #4
> > wire would normally get crimped. I solder one zener wire to the ring
> > terminal, the other to a short length of hookup wire, then pot it with
> > thermally conductive epoxy, and finally put heat shrink tubing over it.
> > The resulting assembly is waterproof and acid-proof. The ring terminal
> > (and battery terminal it is bolted to) serves as the heatsink for the
> > zener.
> >
> > > Also - are there any picture of the completed units
> > > on the net anywhere for viewing?
> >
> > Hmm... I don't know of any. Any of you guys that have them have a
> > digital camera?
> > --
> > "One doesn't discover new lands without consenting to lose sight of the
> > shore for a very long time." -- Andre Gide
> > --
> > Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> > Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.13/123 - Release Date:
> 06/10/2005
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.9/116 - Release Date: 9/30/05
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I had one of these weld closed doing the duty it's intended for - 12V
isolator on a car, so they're not up to starter motor currents - never
mind opening on load. Completely unsuitable for EV use!
On 10/6/05, Brown, Jay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I actually have some (cough, cough, ...) experience with this little red
> key. It didn't work to cutoff 48volts of Alltrax so I would HIGHLY
> recommend against using it for anything above 12 volts. Luckily the
> transmission (who am I kidding... it was the chain on my e-go-kart) was
> disconnected at the time so it wasn't a runaway but rather more like a
> fireworks show...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks Tim, Would this circuit be better with something like a tailght bulb
(20 watts) so that most of the charge current is being used by the bulb and
not going into the battery to boil the electrolyte.
That way I don't have to keep going out to the EV to see if its lit up like
a Christmas tree (LOL) .
You see most EV charging in UK is done at night as the cost per kwh is less
than half the price during the day.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Stephenson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: Details of the Lee Hart Zener-Lamp regulator
> This is from Don Cameron's site
> (http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_BatteryManagementSystems.html ) -
> thanks!
>
> Lee Hart's Shunt Type Battery Balancer
>
> Here is one possibility [for a shunt type battery balancer - ed].
Strangely
> enough, it is currently in my own EV, since I sold its Balancer to Rick
> Woodbury.
>
> Each battery has a regulator which consists of
>
> 2 - ring terminal, with hole for 5/16" bolt, and crimp for #6 wire
> 2 - 6.8v 5watt zener diodes
> 1 - #PR2 flashlight bulb
> Solder a zener diode into each ring terminal where the wire normally goes.
> Solder a 6" piece of wire to the other end of the zener diode. Solder the
> flashlight bulb between the free ends of these two wires. Now you have the
> two zeners and flashlight bulb all wired in series.
>
> Fill the space between the zener and ring terminal with epoxy glue.
> Likewise, dunk the bulb and its wires in epoxy glue. This makes everything
> waterproof and acid proof, and helps conduct heat. The zeners get their
> heatsinking from the large ring terminals and battery posts they are
bolted
> to.
>
> Put one of these circuits across every 12v battery. If the charging
voltage
> exceeds about 13.6v, the zeners begin to conduct and the lamp lights. At
> about 15v, the lamp is fully lit and is bypassing about 0.5 amps.
>
> Use a photocell to detect the light being produced. When any of these
> battery regulators lights, the photocell sees it and either switches the
> charger off, or to a low-current trickle charge or float voltage setting.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Luck Home" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 3:42 AM
> Subject: Re: Details of the Lee Hart Zener-Lamp regulator
>
>
> > Oh come on............... please share what this is. All I have gotten
> from
> > the list is "Kluge"'s post and your reply Lee. Did I miss the original
> post.
> > What is the Lee Hart Zener lamp regulator ???
> >
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> > Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 6:56 AM
> > Subject: Re: Details of the Lee Hart Zener-Lamp regulator
> >
> >
> > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > > > Lee, I am really impressed with the elegance of the zener-lamp
> > > > battery regulator (while understandfing its limitations).
> > > > I'm going to make a few for a variety of uses as a first step.
> > > > My question is this: Should the zeners be sunk down into the
> > > > lug/heatsinks?
> > >
> > > Yes; at least that's how I'm doing it. I use 5 watt zeners, and they
> > > will overheat if you don't heatsink them somehow. So I use "heavy
duty"
> > > copper ring terminals, sized to fit on a 5/16" bolt and for a #4 wire.
> > > The body of the zener goes entirely inside the terminal where the #4
> > > wire would normally get crimped. I solder one zener wire to the ring
> > > terminal, the other to a short length of hookup wire, then pot it with
> > > thermally conductive epoxy, and finally put heat shrink tubing over
it.
> > > The resulting assembly is waterproof and acid-proof. The ring terminal
> > > (and battery terminal it is bolted to) serves as the heatsink for the
> > > zener.
> > >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have an air conditioner (outside unit 240vac) emergency disconnect that's
2 pole and wire it in series for better arcing suppression. It's mounted on
my left side to grab in case of woops. The vehicle is 72Vdc.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Massey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 4:55 PM
Subject: 12V parts misused, was: Re: Battery Isolator
> At 06:46 AM 7/10/05 +1000, Robert Chew wrote:
> >Hi all,,
> >
> >I bought a cheap battery isolator, looks like a big red key switch. Big
> >terminsls. Rated at 200A continuous and 500A surge. It is for 12 volt but
I
> >wanted it to have it in series with my battery string so that I can pull
the
> >plug if something goes wrong.
>
> So when you are down to your last chance and have to hit the big red
> button, you bash it and hear an arcing noise and don't slow down any.....
>
> If it is rated for 12V, build a 12V EV. if you are building a 120V EV, use
> 120V parts.
>
> Using 12V parts on higher voltages is like using a piece of string as a
> seatbelt or an empty coke bottle as a life preserver. May sort of work,
but
> when you need it to do the job you put it there for, it ...well - does the
> job as it is designed!
>
> Please make a safe EV, for the rest of us it's bad PR and depressing for
> your next of kin if you don't.
>
> James
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Greetings list,
I apologize for not listing which S-10 that I have a chance to buy. I don't
know the year, but it has a 3 phase AC liquid cooled 85KW motor, a Comrad
wireless Data Link, a Magna Charger and a Delco Syste 110 Inverter Module. I
imagine that the battery pack is toast due to storage and maintenance
problems. I have wanted to have an electric vehicle for some time, and in my
lurking
on the list, it seems that the S10-E is a well respected vehicle. The only
problem is that I have to make an offer, and I don't even know where to
start. The vehicle has 3500 miles on it, so I can deduce that not many of the
moving parts are worn out, but assuming that the battery pack is shot, how
much
could that cost to replace, and with what? It has a Magna Charger but I
assume that I will have to get the stationary part-are they available?
If anyone can help me out with this I would be very grateful. I have only
about a week to decide and make my offer.
Bruce McClure
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Is this a yellow one with a solar panel on the hood and all the batteries in
the back and a possible motor issue?
I have paid around that much for a much older S-15 Pickup and S-10 Blazer that
as far as the vehicle goes were junk. And the batteries were junk but given my
skills/abilities/timeline/$$ at the time it was what I could get and they
always served me well.
For both I really should and gone and looked at them first. The S-15 I probably
wouldn't have gotten if I had gone and looked. It still a great EV and it will
last forever it just doesn't fit me quite right and it's electric construction
was a little sub par.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Greetings from a lurker-
I have been given the opportunity to buy a GM S-10 pickup with only 3500
miles on it. I have absolutely no idea whether or not it runs, or what shape
the battery pack is in, but I do know that the body looks just like a 3500 mile
body should. My questions are: What can I expect to have to pay for this
truck, is it a good first EV for a duffer, and is it easily repairable by a
Sunday mechanic.
Thanks for your assistance,
Bruce McClure
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is the Second EV grin.....When the world notices...
2.414 cents a mile???? WHAT???
Kinda wakes the SUV monster truck Rednecks up a bit.
Madman
It's not raining... I should be Goldie bound.
Joe has Dared me to hook up the 75K to Goldie. Lets try for a 5 minute
charge cycle.... Er.... How big a charger fuse.....400 amps.....? And ...
the Regbuss better be on line for that kind of charge power.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 11:00 PM
Subject: Underestimated public reaction
> Well It happened to me. I took the nissan over to the dealer to get a
> part for it. Somewhere in the conversatioin with the parts guy I let it
> slip that it was now electric and he wanted to come out and take a look.
> So I showed him. A mechanic walks by and does a true double-take. Then
> off to kragens for a different part(waste of time) back to the dealer
> for said part(also a waste of time) but while I was talking to the parts
> guy the service manager comes up and asks if he can open the hood and
> show it to a few people. I said ok and let him know it was un-latched.
>
> Then realized I had better get out there before some pokeing fingers
> finds 200V.
> There were 10-15 people and I could hear the manager paging people to
> the area.
>
> Of course the crowd drew more onlookers.
>
> What was a pleasent surprize was no generator on wheel questions.
> Actually, only 1 range question.
> The dominate question was how fast? and how much HP? I think this is a
> side effect of it being a 300zx, people expect it to be fast.
>
> How I would have loved to john wayland it out of the parking lot but...
> we are not ready.
>
> Anyhow, I was quite late for my doctors appointment.
> Word of advice, allow extra time the SECOND time you go someplace
> public. The Word gets around.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You have to expect to replace the battery pack, lead acid pack
replacement will be around $3,000 or so. If I were bidding on it, I'd
probably offer 6K to 8K depending on other factors (charging system
etc).
Lynn
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 9:38 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: s-10 value
Greetings list,
I apologize for not listing which S-10 that I have a chance to buy. I
don't
know the year, but it has a 3 phase AC liquid cooled 85KW motor, a
Comrad
wireless Data Link, a Magna Charger and a Delco Syste 110 Inverter
Module. I
imagine that the battery pack is toast due to storage and maintenance
problems. I have wanted to have an electric vehicle for some time, and
in my lurking
on the list, it seems that the S10-E is a well respected vehicle. The
only
problem is that I have to make an offer, and I don't even know where to
start. The vehicle has 3500 miles on it, so I can deduce that not many
of the
moving parts are worn out, but assuming that the battery pack is shot,
how much
could that cost to replace, and with what? It has a Magna Charger but
I
assume that I will have to get the stationary part-are they available?
If anyone can help me out with this I would be very grateful. I have
only
about a week to decide and make my offer.
Bruce McClure
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi, I'm a newbie to the list and I'm building an EV with an 80-90 mile
range.
I'm thinking of using a Toyota Celica or a Saturn with 312V system due
to the good drag and low weight.
Has anyone done a conversion with one of these or have a suggestion of
a better donor?
I had the idea using this Bill's design to build 1 charger per battery
allow independent regulation of each battery.
Back of the envelope cost to build each one (assuming quantity > 10)
would be:
$25 transformer
$10-15 160,000 mf capacitor
$4 power transistors
$2 LM317
$10 blank board
$10 misc
? case
~$75 total
So if you have a 312V pack the charger would cost ~$1,900 and you would
have to design a float circuit also. Probably not worth it unless you
have a source of cheap transformer with that fancy secondary.
-Robert
--- End Message ---
