EV Digest 4810
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Regen Theory on SepEx
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Lawless Industries "Zero" Mower to take on world's best at
Internatioanl Lawn, Garden, & Power Equipment Expo next week
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker
by "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Bracket Racing White Zombie to a 12.151 @ 106.25 mph World Record!
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: Bracket Racing White Zombie to a 12.151 @ 106.25 mph World Re cord!
by Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: Crimp versus solder (was: Cable Crimping Tools)
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Electric Insight ??
by Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Electric Insight ??
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: TS Undervoltage Detection
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: DC to DC
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
by Gordon Niessen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: DC to DC
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
by Edward Ang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: Battery Equaliser
by "Paschke, Stephen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: DC to DC
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: Simple Diagnostic Circuit
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: DC to DC
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: DC to DC
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Force A/C was Re: Suggestions on new Force
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Should I be concerned?
by kluge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Ev conversion wiki needs attention
by Robert Baertsch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Electronics 101 question
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Rod,
Thanks, that's a good article. I don't think I have upper regen fet's
though, in looking at GE's similar schematics. I saw them on the fork lift
regen controls but not on the golf cart/NEV regen controls, I think because
of the higher speeds of golf cart's/NEV's. I think the arm is tied
conventionally to a lower chopper Fet, upper to Batt +72V and the motor
regens through the lower fet body diode when the field strength is
increased. (The only way to know if I have regen fet's I suppose is to take
the control apart, as I don't see any change of the waveform as regen
occurs). The field is fairly low at 3.2 ohms which leads me to believe that
natural regen can occur at low speeds since the motor shunt field is PWM'd
and never operated full on. The field PWM starts off at about a 20% duty
cycle in normal operation and during regen increases to 50% while the arm
pwm is decreasing pulse width. I think this field would probably fry if
connected directly to the battery, so it's like, say a 10V field being PWM'd
to operate at 72V so when regen is needed, there's plenty of field current
increase available to make the armature try to produce more than 72V even at
low rpm's *without* extra regen fets. Sounds like a cheap elegant design
but never directly connect the field to the battery or a crispy field will
result. ArmVoltage = FieldCurrent x Speed . My guess is if I were to
directly connect the field to the battery (72V/3.2ohms=22.5A ) I'd probably
go through the windshield. Hmmm an experiment for tonight.
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: Regen Theory on SepEx
> Try this link,
>
http://homepages.which.net/~paul.hills/SpeedControl/SpeedControllersBody.html
>
> Rod
>
> --- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Hello Mark,
> >
> > Here is a WEB site that shows speed control
> > circuits, in many different configurations and the
> > theory of operation:
> >
> >
>
http://homepages.which.net/-paul.hills/SpeedControl/SpeedController.html<http://homepages.which.net/-paul.hills/SpeedControl/SpeedController.html>
> >
> > It is 25 pages long if you print it out.
> >
> > Roland
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Mark Hanson<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To:
> > ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 9:02 AM
> > Subject: Regen Theory on SepEx
> >
> >
> > Hi,
> > I've always used/built series chopper controls and
> > battery chargers in the past so this regen to zero
> > operation on my Curtis SepEx 72V Bombardier control
> > is a bit fuzzy. So I need some help in
> > understanding what's going on.
> >
> > I put the ARM and FIELD on an O'scope and
> > accelerated with the acel pot peddle and decelerated
> > with the regen pot brake peddle looking at the
> > waveforms. I also have a +- current meter on the
> > battery pack to see load and regen mode.
> >
> > The armature PWM's at 20kHz to the throttle demand
> > as expected. On accel, the field is PWM's with the
> > arm increasing duty cycle on the arm and decreasing
> > duty cycle on the field as speed increases, somewhat
> > as expected but the field *never* gets more than 50%
> > at start. The field *does not* reverse during regen
> > and slowing down *but* the PWM increases near zero
> > speed from about 20% on-time duty cycle to 50% duty
> > cycle when regen to 0 speed. The arm *decreases*
> > pwm while the field *increases* pwm on time during
> > regen as the speed decreases. The field pwm *never*
> > hits 100% on time though and does not reverse during
> > regen (only when reversing vehicle direction of
> > course).
> >
> > So from Lee's example of Arm Voltage = K x
> > FieldCurrent x Speed: The motor is probably wound
> > with excessive field turns in order to boost the
> > voltage over the 72V battery pack while slowing
> > down. I can't figure out though how it's boosting
> > the voltage over 72V to charge the battery when the
> > motor is slowing down to a stop, say running a 5mph
> > equivelent 12V operation. The schematic appears to
> > be just a chopper main fet and diode clamp around
> > the arm and an H-bridge for the field (for fwd &
> > rev) How does regen work without a boost converter?
> >
> > Thanks, Mark
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 7:01 PM
Subject: Fw: Lawless Industries "Zero" Mower to take on world's best at
Internatioanl Lawn, Garden, & Power Equipment Expo next week
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: Rich Rudman
> Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 8:12 PM
> Subject: Lawless Industries "Zero" Mower to take on world's best at
Internatioanl Lawn, Garden, & Power Equipment Expo next week
>
>
> Rich,
>
> Can you please post this on the ev list.
>
> Lawless Industries Ltd from Youngstown, Ohio will be taking on all of the
major world manufacturers of Lawn, Garden, & Power Equipment October 14-16
in Louisville Ky at the industry's huge annual exposition !!! Our "Zero"
mower will be in our booth # 1940. It will be available for inspection and
demo for the 25,000 attendees. With 63 HP and 132 ft-lbs. of torque it will
be the most powerful Zero-turn mower at the entire show. The 4000 watt
onboard inverter should provide plenty of power for our booth lights.
Admission for prospective buyers is via the expo website. Here is the link
http://expo.mow.org/. If you happen to be in the Lousiville area stop by
and see us. You can get more specs on the mower at our website at
http://www.zeromow.com.
>
> Wish us Luck,
>
> Shawn Lawless
>
> Hi Shawn;
Great mower! You have my best wishes and Good Luck! It's about time
somebody brought back the "Electrac Theory", updated, redesigned. After all
the Electrac is an antique, nowadaze!!
May your order bookings be overflowing in short order!!
Seeya
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 6:16 AM
Subject: Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
Steve,
I don't know what motors or arrangement you are planning but I think your
150 amps is very conservative.
yes on my no 2 the blades where not spinning as fast as the gas and no 1 is
running on 72v with a 8" net gain motor 150 amp was what the whole thing
used and 50 was going for driving . ,,, When I get it done I'm going to be
using this for my lawn bisusness and be charging it form my ev truck , maybe
I've been to worred about the weight , sounds like you have 600 lbs of
batteries , ?
funny but knowing sombody else has done one makes me feel like mine might
work also , . Looks real good , hope you sell a bunch of them. I could see
even lawn men with gas trucks using them , and having a battery pack in the
trailer ,, believe me we are very tired of gas motors .
steve clunn
. On large open space you will do
better than me with your 50" rather than with my puny 42" cut. It's the
overlap that really adds up to wasted power.
Shawn
-----Original Message-----
From: STEVE CLUNN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 18:32:27 -0500
Subject: Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
I didn't see what kind of batteries you are using and what size pack? I'm
working on somthing along the same lines usiing a 50" dixie chopper , and
it looks like it will need 150 amps at 48v to run . steve clunn -----
Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To:
<ev@listproc.sjsu.edu> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 4:54 PM Subject:
"ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
To everyone who tried to reach our website yesterday and today and
were > unsuccessful,
Sorry about it being down for so long. We got hit pretty hard after
some > good local press and it crashed.
It's back up if anyone is interested www.zeromow.com Shawn Lawless
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Any local machine shop should have catalogs of clamps of this kind.
Here is one with a horizontal straight line motion. This kind could be
mounted in the cab with a long rod on the clamp extending thru the fire
wall to activate the contacts well away from your hand. I have seen this
type of clamp with a nice T handle that would be better for a quick grab
and pull. Also with the 2" of plunger travel you could build in a spring
loaded hammer so that the first part of the travel would load up the spring
and then trigger the hammer that would slam the contacts open. Likely not
needed since with the toggle action you have the greatest mechanical
advantage at the point where you would be ripping the welded contacts apart.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1766144&PMT4NO=1925636
Another place is www.reidtool.com but their web site seems particularly
stuck up on which browser you can use. They do have a nice selection of
knobs, handles, latches, and a lot of other stuff that can be used to put
that professional finish look on a project.
And yet another company.
http://www.jergensinc.com/search_pictorial_frames.aspx?catChapterID=13
__________
Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Jim Husted wrote:
I was wondering though? Has anyone else noticed that Tim seems to be doing
all the driving here lately??
Tim indeed, has exclusively driven this car into all the world records
this year. It's the least I can do to thank him for all his hard work.
He's spent countless hours here working on this car. Tim was supposed to
drive Purple Phaze this year, but the truck just didn't get done in
time. We switched gears and focused on pushing White Zombie deeper into
the 12's...Tim was a huge part of this. There wasn't one bit of whining
or complaining out of Tim. He now is attacking Purple Phaze at his home
where he's been sandblasting it in preparation for bodywork and paint.
Next year, Purple Phaze 'will' be on the track, will be in the 11's and
perhaps even the high 10's, and Tim will be the driver. I'll resume
driving the slow car, White Zombie :-)
Hey John is that little 'Ol Datsun getting too
fast for you old man???
It's all your fault, Jim. The Siamese 8 frightens me! Seriously....I'll
have my turn at the wheel next year, for now, Tim's the man!
He's young, very smart, excited about EVs, perhaps the best mechanic
I've ever met (at 27 he's got the skills and experience of a much older
man), and he's a very nice person. I want a fresh face on Plasma Boy
Racing, and the car looks way better with a young guy at the wheel than
with an aging Greek. He fits right in with the younger guys at the
track, is well liked, and represents EVs with a passion....it's just
what I want.
Tim Humphrey wrote:
In fact I was wondering how John was managing to keep himself out of that car.
That's been his baby and his dream for years now...
Yes, it has been and still is my baby, but I'm quite excited having Tim
drive it. It's sometimes, more fun to watch this car than to drive it.
Now, I can be in the crowd, hear their remarks, talk with them, take
pictures, watch the way the car reacts off the line, etc. I can also do
my EV PR thing and accurate get info to the track officials in the tower.
I can't be believe he hasn't piloted it once since it's hit this performance level.
Well, I do drive it, just not on the track right now. It's a hoot to
nail it at 70 mph on the freeway and have it slam you back as it rushes
to much higher speeds nearly instantaneously. I also drive it to the
track most of the time to make sure all is well.
How do you do it John??
How do I do it? I usually listen to some AC/DC really loud to satisfy my
craving...that calms me down to where I can toss Tim the
keys :-)
We're expecting warmer drier weather for this weekend, and if the rains
stop in time we will be at the track Friday night for what may be our
last track time until PIR reopens in the Spring (they shut down after
the 1st weekend in Nov.) Tim pulled the traction bars out last night
after work while I reworked an issue in the rear battery tray. Tonight
we are meeting up with Marko Mongillo at the metal shop to modify the
traction bars by making them 4 inches longer. This small change will
eliminate the remaining spring wind-up we had, keep the rear axle in
place better, move the lifting force farther forward and to a reinforced
section of the frame, will shift weight transfer more to the rear, and
should help the car launch even better and make it so that the Zilla can
be cranked up to higher current levels in the series mode. We only need
to shave off .2 seconds to break into the 11's.
See Ya.....John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
http://www.plasmaboyracing.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John Wrote:
We're expecting warmer drier weather for this weekend, and if the rains stop in
time we will be at the track Friday night for what may be our last track time
until PIR reopens in the Spring (they shut down after the 1st weekend in Nov.)
Tim pulled the traction bars out last night after work while I reworked an
issue in the rear battery tray. Tonight we are meeting up with Marko Mongillo
at the metal shop to modify the traction bars by making them 4 inches longer.
This small change will eliminate the remaining spring wind-up we had, keep the
rear axle in
place better, move the lifting force farther forward and to a reinforced
section of the frame, will shift weight transfer more to the rear, and should
help the car launch even better and make it so that the Zilla can be cranked up
to higher current levels in the series mode. We only need to shave off .2
seconds to break into the 11's.
See Ya.....John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
http://www.plasmaboyracing.com
I'm not an expert here, or even a current pert for that matter. But, I am
thinking that if you "fix" the traction bars to eliminate and spring wind up
you may want to seriously consider adding some wheelie bars. It may be the
spring wind up that has prevented front end damage (think Maniac Mazda with no
wheelie bars) Do you need to review those pics again?
It would be cool to see the Zombie with it's front tires 3 ft off the ground
though!! That'll get the crowd going, maybe it's worth one front end rebuild.
Stay charged!
Hump
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Interesting,
but does not solve the problems when soldering:
- brittle or molten insulation
- uncertain solder flow causing either not all strands
to be connected or solder flowing too far into the cable
causing a weak point where the cable is more stressed.
I'll be crimping, even though I have been soldering all my life
as I know the above problems when soldering first-hand.
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Martin Klingensmith
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 4:04 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Crimp versus solder (was: Cable Crimping Tools)
You can buy a $15 propane torch at the home improvement store and use a
spool of the rosin core solder that's on the rack right next to the torch.
Just letting you know since you think it's more expensive.
--
Martin K
Cor van de Water wrote:
>Neon John wrote:
>
>
>>My recommendation remains for *home* constructors is to solder the
>>lugs whenever possible. Soldering can be done with tools most people
>>already have at hand, propane torches, solder, flux, etc. No need to
>>spend lots of money on a set of metal displacement crimpers.
>>
>>
>
>All my soldering irons are under 25W as they are intended for elctronics,
>so I would need to buy a torch or 100+ Watt iron to do this kind of
>soldering, also my solder is a very thin gauge and no flux allowed.
>
>On the other hand, I bought a hammer-crimper tool (picture just seen
>in a recent post) for $20 including shipping on Ebay.
>
>I will be (home-) crimping. (Which I understand is also required by code)
>
>Regards,
>
>Cor van de Water
>Systems Architect
>
>
--
Martin Klingensmith
http://wwia.org/
http://nnytech.net/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Have recently "subscribed" to Bill Moores EV WORLD, and just received a
news areticle (10/9 ) on some folks doing modifications to Honda's for
extended Electric Assist.. Thought some may be interested.. ( I have
not seen it mentioned here yet.... )
( I'm pritty sure you can view THIS article with out being a "Subscriber" )
http://www.evworld.com/view.cfm?section=article&storyid=908
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Steven,
Yes, the MIMA modification allows you to use the Honda's IMA more as
an EV drive, to further improve the MPG. You can read all about it on
the "insight central" forum and Mike's website. I'm going to be
installing this kit soon.
Regards
Evan
On 10/11/05, Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Have recently "subscribed" to Bill Moores EV WORLD, and just received a
> news areticle (10/9 ) on some folks doing modifications to Honda's for
> extended Electric Assist.. Thought some may be interested.. ( I have
> not seen it mentioned here yet.... )
>
> ( I'm pritty sure you can view THIS article with out being a "Subscriber" )
>
> http://www.evworld.com/view.cfm?section=article&storyid=908
> --
> Steven S. Lough, Pres.
> Seattle EV Association
> 6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
> Seattle, WA 98115-7230
> Day: 206 850-8535
> Eve: 206 524-1351
> e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> web: http://www.seattleeva.org
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill Dennis wrote:
> I'm thinking of putting the following circuit on each of my
> TS cells to prevent undervoltage usage. 2.8V is the cutoff.
Lee Hart replied:
>> I'd put an RC filter on the input; something like a 10-ohm 1/4w carbon
>>film resistor and 100uF capacitor. The resistor will act like a fuse if
>>anything goes wrong, and fail open.
Lee, I'm not sure where you're saying the RC filter would go. And how would
the voltage drop across the resistor affect the circuit and its voltage
sensing?
Also, you mentioned using an LM10 to replace the LM-741 and REF-3012. I've
studied the spec sheet on the LM10, but I can't figure out how to wire it so
that it turns on below 2.8V. Can you give me some help?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
+ -------------------------
| 10K | |
| Pot +-----+ 4464 +--------+ ___ to 1231C throttle
| | |------| | |
| +-----+ Ohms | LM-741 |___ |
_|_ | | OP-AMP | | |
_\_/_-------)--1.25V--|+ | +--------+
| REF- | +--------+ | OPTO |
| 3012 | | |H11A817C|
| | | +--------+
| | | \ |
| | | 100 / |
| | | Ohm \ |___ to 1231C throttle
| | | /
- ---------------------------------
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 11 Oct 2005 09:19:29 -0400, "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>The big question I have is why would you want to spend $359 on a converter
>that can only put out only 20 amps? I would think the draw is much more
>than that.
You wouldn't and it depends. I've been quite happy with converters
and power supplies from astrodyne. Most all are under $150 and many
are under $100.
Up to 100 volts, they make dedicated DC/DC converters. Above that,
their standard switchmode power supplies can be used with DC input.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What is the base cost of the mower? It seems to have some really
nice features. Might be a bit more mower then I need now, but just
what I might need next year. :-)
----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 4:54 PM
Subject: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
To everyone who tried to reach our website yesterday and today and
were unsuccessful,
Sorry about it being down for so long. We got hit pretty hard after
some good local press and it crashed.
It's back up if anyone is interested www.zeromow.com
Shawn Lawless
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Vicor 300V to 12V DC-DC 300W for 10$
http://cgi.ebay.fr/Powercube-DC-DC-Converter-300VDC-to-15VDC_W0QQitemZ7551767828QQcategoryZ4660QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neon John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: DC to DC
> On Tue, 11 Oct 2005 09:19:29 -0400, "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> >The big question I have is why would you want to spend $359 on a
converter
> >that can only put out only 20 amps? I would think the draw is much more
> >than that.
>
> You wouldn't and it depends. I've been quite happy with converters
> and power supplies from astrodyne. Most all are under $150 and many
> are under $100.
>
> Up to 100 volts, they make dedicated DC/DC converters. Above that,
> their standard switchmode power supplies can be used with DC input.
>
> John
> ---
> John De Armond
> See my website for my current email address
> http://www.johngsbbq.com
> Cleveland, Occupied TN
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor,
How many of these are you going to have? What is the
weight? I am interested in getting 16.
Ed Ang
--- Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> If anyone would like to get these Ovonic's 85Ah NiMH
> batteries,
> I'll have some available. I have to pick them up
> from out of state,
> so to avoid many trips I want to get in as many as
> people will
> need at once. The price is $170 each, pulled from
> the stock for
> GM's S10 and EV1 gen II fleet - Ovonic happen to
> have made many
> more battery packs than fleet vehicles intended to
> use them.
>
> Most of the batteries are brand new, but some were
> installed
> in S10 trucks, in which case got <10k miles on them.
> There is no detectable performance difference
> between these
> and never used ones. Quantity is limited.
>
> 13.2V nom, 11 cells; 15-1/2 L x 7-3/4 H x 3-7/8 W,
> 38 lb each.
>
> Few photos:
> http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh1.jpg
> http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh2.jpg
> http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh3.jpg
>
> Anyone interested please contact me off list. It
> will take some
> time to get them and initially cycle them.
>
> Victor
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ed, look at Victor's message again. The weight is 38 pounds.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Edward Ang
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 9:23 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
Victor,
How many of these are you going to have? What is the
weight? I am interested in getting 16.
Ed Ang
--- Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> If anyone would like to get these Ovonic's 85Ah NiMH
> batteries,
> I'll have some available. I have to pick them up
> from out of state,
> so to avoid many trips I want to get in as many as
> people will
> need at once. The price is $170 each, pulled from
> the stock for
> GM's S10 and EV1 gen II fleet - Ovonic happen to
> have made many
> more battery packs than fleet vehicles intended to
> use them.
>
> Most of the batteries are brand new, but some were
> installed
> in S10 trucks, in which case got <10k miles on them.
> There is no detectable performance difference
> between these
> and never used ones. Quantity is limited.
>
> 13.2V nom, 11 cells; 15-1/2 L x 7-3/4 H x 3-7/8 W,
> 38 lb each.
>
> Few photos:
> http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh1.jpg
> http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh2.jpg
> http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh3.jpg
>
> Anyone interested please contact me off list. It
> will take some
> time to get them and initially cycle them.
>
> Victor
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey, I think I may have a tube of that vx-6 stuff from the 70's. I
think I bought 2, tried one in a dead starter battery but still couldn't
use it, so I never used the other one.
> Stephen Paschke
> Senior Consultant
> Keane, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David Roden
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 11:09 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Battery Equaliser
On 10 Oct 2005 at 23:24, Tim Stephenson wrote:
> They have an intriguing foot-in-the-door recycling program going on:
> they take in "dead" forklift batteries (especially interesting to me),
treat
> them with this additive, recharge them on a tricky recharger they've
invented,
> and sell them back at half-new prices with a very attractive warranty
policy.
Reminds me of a local battery store. I've gotten a few golf car
batteries
from them over the years. These guys do a big trade in "reconditioned"
batteries for the big old ICE beaters that populate the neighborhood
around
their store. The usually get one-third to one-half the new price.
One day when I was up there, the guy who was waiting on me sold such a
battery to another customer. After the customer left, I asked him, "So
-
just what DO you do to a battery to recondition it?"
Without batting an eye, the tech said, "We charge it."
> The "class of ingredient" is Cadmium Sulfate (< 1%)
Many years ago, certainly back in the 1960s and 1970s, local discount
stores' auto departments used to sell "battery rejuvenator" snake oil
called
VX-6 with that same stuff in it. It came in a little bottle maybe 10 cm
tall and cost a few bucks, maybe $3 or $4, IIRC. It was even dyed the
same
color, pink or red.
As I understand it, somehow cadmium sulfate binds to the crystalline
lead
sulfate that won't take part in the charging reaction, and precipitates
it
out. (No, I don't know how this works.) This doesn't add any real
capacity
to the battery, but it may temporarily reduce its internal resistance.
The usual "proof" that it worked: turn on your headlights until the
battery
is dead. Now shut them off, and go pour in your VX-6. Wait a few
minutes.
Now try to start your car. Presto! Look at all that new energy the
VX-6
gave your battery!
Of course - as all EVers know ;-) - a "flat" lead battery left to its
own
devices for a few minutes will "regain" some charge, quite possibly
enough
to start an ICE. But this "proof" sure made the stuff look good, and
gullible customers bought it.
I wouldn't put it in a good battery, but it can't hurt much in one
that's
already kaputt. One thing to be aware of, though. Even in such small
quantities as this, cadmium is nasty stuff. There is a recycling system
in
place for nickel cadmium batteries, of course. However, from what I
understand, the lead battery recycling industry has no facilities for
handling this kind of heavy metal impurity. You may be (note that I
say
MAY be) creating a disposal problem when you dose a lead battery with
cadmium sulfate.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me. To
send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
**************************************************************
This message, including any attachments, contains confidential information
intended for a specific individual and purpose, and is protected by law. If
you are not the intended recipient, please contact sender immediately by reply
e-mail and destroy all copies. You are hereby notified that any disclosure,
copying, or distribution of this message, or the taking of any action based on
it, is strictly prohibited.
TIAA-CREF
**************************************************************
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm using a DLS - 55 by IOTA. Wilde said he was going to carry them but not
yet. I got mine over the web. 100 bucks. So far so good. Lawrence
Rhodes.........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 6:19 AM
Subject: RE: DC to DC
The big question I have is why would you want to spend $359 on a converter
that can only put out only 20 amps? I would think the draw is much more
than that. I have seen some people put alternators on their conversions.
Do they really draw down the motor that much or is it an effeciency thing?
-----Original Message-----
From: Victor Tikhonov [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 9:15 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: DC to DC
Michaela Merz wrote:
Hello everybody:
I am looking for a nice (= powerful) DC-to-DC solution for input voltages
between 120 V and 156 V, output >200w
Define "nice" a bit better. $359 250W DCDC250/144/14 may be
your good choice, see http://www.metricmind.com/dcdc.htm
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>There are 6 unused bulb slots in the middle of my dash, and I thought it
>might be nice to turn them into a simple diagnostic aid so that if (when!)
>the car should not start at some point, I could flip a switch on the dash
>that would light a series of LEDs to give me some indication of where the
>problem might be. I've posted the planned circuit at:
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~denniswilliamsha/DiagnosticCircuit.gif
I'd been hoping to use the car's existing relays for this circuit, but I see
now that those relays have only 4 terminals, whereas the first three relays
in my circuit need to be the 5-terminal type. Can these 5-terminal relays
be bought at an automotive store, or do I need to get them elsewhere?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This doesn't appear to be a Vicor, and the spec sheet is pretty vague --
No indication of the input range it will accept.
http://powercube.com/pd301_c.htm
Philippe Borges wrote:
Vicor 300V to 12V DC-DC 300W for 10$
http://cgi.ebay.fr/Powercube-DC-DC-Converter-300VDC-to-15VDC_W0QQitemZ7551767828QQcategoryZ4660QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neon John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: DC to DC
On Tue, 11 Oct 2005 09:19:29 -0400, "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
The big question I have is why would you want to spend $359 on a
converter
that can only put out only 20 amps? I would think the draw is much more
than that.
You wouldn't and it depends. I've been quite happy with converters
and power supplies from astrodyne. Most all are under $150 and many
are under $100.
Up to 100 volts, they make dedicated DC/DC converters. Above that,
their standard switchmode power supplies can be used with DC input.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Those pictures are 404 ...
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
Hi All,
If anyone would like to get these Ovonic's 85Ah NiMH batteries,
I'll have some available. I have to pick them up from out of state,
so to avoid many trips I want to get in as many as people will
need at once. The price is $170 each, pulled from the stock for
GM's S10 and EV1 gen II fleet - Ovonic happen to have made many
more battery packs than fleet vehicles intended to use them.
Most of the batteries are brand new, but some were installed
in S10 trucks, in which case got <10k miles on them.
There is no detectable performance difference between these
and never used ones. Quantity is limited.
13.2V nom, 11 cells; 15-1/2 L x 7-3/4 H x 3-7/8 W, 38 lb each.
Few photos:
http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh1.jpg
http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh2.jpg
http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh3.jpg
Anyone interested please contact me off list. It will take some
time to get them and initially cycle them.
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) wrote:
The big question I have is why would you want to spend $359 on a converter
that can only put out only 20 amps?
Michaela specified he needs >200W converter. So I offered 250W one.
This is EV DC-DC converter, not telecomm or other general purpose
converter; it's made by the company which knows their stuff, thus
the price tag.
I would think the draw is much more
than that.
Your draw or Michaela's? There is next step up - 600W one if 250W isn't
enough.
I have seen some people put alternators on their conversions.
Do they really draw down the motor that much or is it an effeciency thing?
It's the space and need for the motor tail shaft, pulleys and belt;
need for idling (unless your aux battery is large) and of course
efficiency (60-70% typically). Unlike solid state DC-DC, you can't mount
alternator anywhere.
So, this is cumbersome but cheap solution suitable for many for this
reason. So, welcome to use $20 alternator if you like, it will
certainly work if done right.
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Noel,
If you are referring to the Air Conditioning system I would suggest that the
system is probably simply low on refrigerant. Assuming it is a 134-A system
it probably just seeped enough from the front seal area (normal, automotive
compressors are non-hermetic) while it was sitting to cause the low pressure
switch to prevent the system from engaging. Give it a thorough visual
inspection for oil tracks at the fittings and at the front clutch area on
the compressor and if all looks intact take it to a local shop that does A/C
work and have them change out the high side and low side service port
shraeders (just a few dollars of cheap insurance) then evacuate and recharge
the system. With as few miles as you have on the vehicle I would advise you
to tell them NOT to add oil (unless of course you did find oil tracks which
would indicate you would have needed repairs before recharging). Some
moderately trained techs have a tendency to add a couple oz of oil when they
"service" a system but this can be a problem after a couple of service
episodes. You could let them add a "Violite" capsule while charging, this
won't hurt anything and could save you money down the road if you do develop
a leak. In any case if you have to add oil for any reason make sure to use
"Ester" oil. NO NO NO MINERAL oil in 134-A systems.
David Chapman
Arizona Electropulsion / Fine-Junque
http://stores.ebay.com/theworldoffinejunque
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Okay, I've taken possession of the '76 Courier I'm going to attempt to revive
(it was sitting in a back yard for three or four years, covered in
leaves and bird droppings) and I hooked the 4001 Prestolite up to a 12V battery
to see if it would run. It did - slowly at first, then picking up
speed before settling down to what I would WAG to be about 500 RPM. The motor
gave off a faint ticking sound, and also a faint squeak. Is
this a bad thing? Will it go away? Will it self destruct? Should I be doing
something about it before moving on to the other 232 items on my list?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The EV conversion wiki site has a call for attention
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_vehicle_conversion
You can log on contribute
Electric vehicle conversion
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
An electric vehicle conversion is the modification of a conventional
internal combustion engine (ICE) driven vehicle to battery electric
propulsion, creating a battery electric vehicle. Much of the
information in this article is also applicable to the design
construction electric vehicles from materials and components, as is
commonly done by hobbyists assembling kit cars with ICE engines.
This article is in need of attention.
You can help Wikipedia by editing it into a better article.
Please also consider changing this notice to be more specific.
Contribution of photographs of various conversion types will be
appreciated. Some sections are stubs and need filling.
Note that the article is currently well over the 32 KB limit. It will
be split into chapters by the principle author when it is complete. If
you have a 32 KB limit in your browser you will not be able to edit
this preface, but the individual sections are all under the 32 KB
limit. Some sections are inappropriately (for Wikipedia) of a "how to
do it" nature. These will be removed to a more appropriate venue (e.g.
a wikibook) upon article completion.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Or possibly Electricity 101.
Here's the scenario; I have a simple 12 volt defrost/heater fan from a car. To
change speeds, the switch on the dash powers the fan through different
resistors. Standard for most cars.
Can I control this motor with a 12 volt PWM controller instead? I want to use
this fan for main motor cooling and would like to be able to vary the speed. I
was just wondering if this was an option instead of using the resistor/switch
method.
Thanks
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
it worked in the afternoon and now 404 too, Why did you take them out Victor
?
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Poulsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
> Those pictures are 404 ...
>
> Victor Tikhonov wrote:
> > Hi All,
> >
> > If anyone would like to get these Ovonic's 85Ah NiMH batteries,
> > I'll have some available. I have to pick them up from out of state,
> > so to avoid many trips I want to get in as many as people will
> > need at once. The price is $170 each, pulled from the stock for
> > GM's S10 and EV1 gen II fleet - Ovonic happen to have made many
> > more battery packs than fleet vehicles intended to use them.
> >
> > Most of the batteries are brand new, but some were installed
> > in S10 trucks, in which case got <10k miles on them.
> > There is no detectable performance difference between these
> > and never used ones. Quantity is limited.
> >
> > 13.2V nom, 11 cells; 15-1/2 L x 7-3/4 H x 3-7/8 W, 38 lb each.
> >
> > Few photos:
> > http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh1.jpg
> > http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh2.jpg
> > http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh3.jpg
> >
> > Anyone interested please contact me off list. It will take some
> > time to get them and initially cycle them.
> >
> > Victor
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
