EV Digest 4811
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: TS Undervoltage Detection
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Should I be concerned?
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: TS Undervoltage Detection
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Electronics 101 question
by "Mark Grasser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Electronics 101 question
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Electronics 101 question
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: TS Undervoltage Detection
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Should I be concerned?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
by JonathanSmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) electric truck
by Calvin King <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) electric pickup
by Calvin King <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Suggestions on new Force
by "Noel P. Luneau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: electric pickup
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: DC to DC
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: electric pickup
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) The bttery photos
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: electric pickup
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
22) Re: Electronics 101 question
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Electronics 101 question
by "Nick 'Sharkey' Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) EV digest 4806 is Relatively Huge?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
25) RE: Crimp versus solder (was: Cable Crimping Tools)
by Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) EV Radio Interview - Heads UP !
by Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker
by Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) RE: DC to DC
by Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: An Enemy of my Enemy
by [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Chris Buresh)
30) RE: DC to DC
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
>> I'd put an RC filter on the input; something like a 10-ohm 1/4w
>> carbon film resistor and 100uF capacitor. The resistor will act
>> like a fuse if anything goes wrong, and fail open.
Bill Dennis wrote:
> Lee, I'm not sure where you're saying the RC filter would go.
> And how would the voltage drop across the resistor affect the
> circuit and its voltage sensing?
The resistor is directly in series with the battery, so if anything
fails in your circuit, it won't short the battery or start a fire. The
resistor will just burn open in a fraction of a second.
Yes, the resistor will cause a slight voltage drop; but not enough to
matter.
> Also, you mentioned using an LM10 to replace the LM-741 and REF-3012.
> I've studied the spec sheet on the LM10, but I can't figure out how
> to wire it so that it turns on below 2.8V. Can you give me some help?
Here's a quickie schmatic to give you the general idea. I haven't tested
it. Remember, you aren't paying anything for it, so that may be what
it's worth!
+ __/\/\________________________________
R1 | | |
10 ohms | > R2 | V+
1/4 watt | > 130k | pin7
| > |
| | LM10 |
| |______________________|\|
| | pin2 |-\_________
| > R3 ________________|+/ output |
| > 10k | | pin3 |/| pin6 > R4
| > |____|\ | | > 10k
C1 +_|_ | pin8 |-\__| | >
100uF ___ | ____|+/ Vref | _|_ |/ collector
25vdc | | +__|__ |/ pin1 | _\_/_ |
| | ___ 200mv | | |\ emitter
| | - |__________________| V- |
| | | pin4 | H11A817C
- ________|____|________________________|_________| optocoupler
The LM10's internal reference drives the first opamp to put 200mv on pin
3. R2 and R3 form a voltage divider to put 200mv on pin 2 when the cell
voltage is 2.8v. When the cell voltage goes below 2.8v, pin2 is less
than pin3, so the output pin6 goes high, which turns on the LED.
--
Humanity is acquiring all the right technology for all the wrong
reasons.
-- R. Buckminster Fuller
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Edward Ang wrote:
Victor,
How many of these are you going to have?
As many as you need, but may not be in the same batch -
too heavy to haul all I need at once.
What is the
weight? I am interested in getting 16.
Ed Ang
38 to 40 lb each.
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Oct 11, 2005, at 12:24 PM, kluge wrote:
Okay, I've taken possession of the '76 Courier I'm going to attempt to
revive (it was sitting in a back yard for three or four years, covered
in
leaves and bird droppings) and I hooked the 4001 Prestolite up to a
12V battery to see if it would run. It did - slowly at first, then
picking up
speed before settling down to what I would WAG to be about 500 RPM.
The motor gave off a faint ticking sound, and also a faint squeak. Is
this a bad thing? Will it go away? Will it self destruct? Should I
be doing something about it before moving on to the other 232 items on
my list?
It doesn't sound like a real problem, but it should be cleared up
before the motor sees EV driving power levels. I suggest you buy a
brush stone from one of the EV parts suppliers.
I recommend that you take a good look and the brushes, brush springs,
and brush holders. You should be able to lift each brush a little bit
by the pig tails - it should slide back smoothly and when you let go
return to the comm with a click. Next, look at those brush springs,
make sure none are broken and that any rusting is superficial. Now look
at the comm, rotate the motor a bit so you can see all of it. It may
look a bit ugly right now, with some corrosion (likely the clicking you
are hearing.) With the motor running on 12 volts you gently stroke back
and forth on the comm with the stone. In no time it should shine right
up (the rpms will increase too.) Take it easy with this, all you want
to do is see copper again - you are not trying to resize it. The motor
will squeak a little as it spins down after you stone the comm until
the brushes seat back in and give it a nice brown color.
Now provided the motor rotates smoothly you have brought the Prestolite
back on line. If the motor does not turn smoothly its possible that you
would need new bearings. They're tough, I bet it will be fine.
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks, Lee! I understand everything except what that component is next to
the word 200mv. Is that the built-in capacitor inside of the LM10?
Thanks again.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lee Hart
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 3:02 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: TS Undervoltage Detection
Lee Hart wrote:
>> I'd put an RC filter on the input; something like a 10-ohm 1/4w
>> carbon film resistor and 100uF capacitor. The resistor will act
>> like a fuse if anything goes wrong, and fail open.
Bill Dennis wrote:
> Lee, I'm not sure where you're saying the RC filter would go.
> And how would the voltage drop across the resistor affect the
> circuit and its voltage sensing?
The resistor is directly in series with the battery, so if anything
fails in your circuit, it won't short the battery or start a fire. The
resistor will just burn open in a fraction of a second.
Yes, the resistor will cause a slight voltage drop; but not enough to
matter.
> Also, you mentioned using an LM10 to replace the LM-741 and REF-3012.
> I've studied the spec sheet on the LM10, but I can't figure out how
> to wire it so that it turns on below 2.8V. Can you give me some help?
Here's a quickie schmatic to give you the general idea. I haven't tested
it. Remember, you aren't paying anything for it, so that may be what
it's worth!
+ __/\/\________________________________
R1 | | |
10 ohms | > R2 | V+
1/4 watt | > 130k | pin7
| > |
| | LM10 |
| |______________________|\|
| | pin2 |-\_________
| > R3 ________________|+/ output |
| > 10k | | pin3 |/| pin6 > R4
| > |____|\ | | > 10k
C1 +_|_ | pin8 |-\__| | >
100uF ___ | ____|+/ Vref | _|_ |/ collector
25vdc | | +__|__ |/ pin1 | _\_/_ |
| | ___ 200mv | | |\ emitter
| | - |__________________| V- |
| | | pin4 | H11A817C
- ________|____|________________________|_________| optocoupler
The LM10's internal reference drives the first opamp to put 200mv on pin
3. R2 and R3 form a voltage divider to put 200mv on pin 2 when the cell
voltage is 2.8v. When the cell voltage goes below 2.8v, pin2 is less
than pin3, so the output pin6 goes high, which turns on the LED.
--
Humanity is acquiring all the right technology for all the wrong
reasons.
-- R. Buckminster Fuller
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Grasser
Yes,
> Can I control this motor with a 12 volt PWM controller instead? I want to
use this fan for main motor cooling and would like to be able to vary the
speed. I was just wondering if this was an option instead of using the
resistor/switch method.
Thanks
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 12:51 PM 11/10/05 -0700, Dave Cover wrote:
Here's the scenario; I have a simple 12 volt defrost/heater fan from a
car. To change speeds, the switch on the dash powers the fan through
different resistors. Standard for most cars.
Can I control this motor with a 12 volt PWM controller instead? I want to
use this fan for main motor cooling and would like to be able to vary the
speed. I was just wondering if this was an option instead of using the
resistor/switch method.
No problem
Here in Australia there are a couple of kit suppliers with a kit that does
exactly that - 12 or 24V, 20A, PWM. Cheap and does the job. We built up one
for a guy who is hauling fish up from the edge of the continental shelf -
bypassed for full speed for the main haul, then slow-and-go as the hooks
come up. Put LOTS of lacquer on that PCB!
I have a similar fan set up on my motor - test ran it with all bits
together for the first time last weekend - got a pleasing amount of air out
of the back end of the motor (pics can be found at
http://jcmassey.gallery.netspace.net.au/Daihatsu-pics-01 ).
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Absolutely. Both limit the average current through the motor, but the
resistor option wastes power as heat -- the PWM method is much more
efficient.
You could easily cobble something together using an analog timer chip
and an appropriately sized transistor.
Dave Cover wrote:
Or possibly Electricity 101.
Here's the scenario; I have a simple 12 volt defrost/heater fan from a car. To change speeds, the switch on the dash powers the fan through different resistors. Standard for most cars.
Can I control this motor with a 12 volt PWM controller instead? I want to use this fan for main motor cooling and would like to be able to vary the speed. I was just wondering if this was an option instead of using the resistor/switch method.
Thanks
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Built-in voltage reference:
http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM10.html
Bill Dennis wrote:
Thanks, Lee! I understand everything except what that component is next to
the word 200mv. Is that the built-in capacitor inside of the LM10?
Thanks again.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lee Hart
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 3:02 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: TS Undervoltage Detection
Lee Hart wrote:
I'd put an RC filter on the input; something like a 10-ohm 1/4w
carbon film resistor and 100uF capacitor. The resistor will act
like a fuse if anything goes wrong, and fail open.
Bill Dennis wrote:
Lee, I'm not sure where you're saying the RC filter would go.
And how would the voltage drop across the resistor affect the
circuit and its voltage sensing?
The resistor is directly in series with the battery, so if anything
fails in your circuit, it won't short the battery or start a fire. The
resistor will just burn open in a fraction of a second.
Yes, the resistor will cause a slight voltage drop; but not enough to
matter.
Also, you mentioned using an LM10 to replace the LM-741 and REF-3012.
I've studied the spec sheet on the LM10, but I can't figure out how
to wire it so that it turns on below 2.8V. Can you give me some help?
Here's a quickie schmatic to give you the general idea. I haven't tested
it. Remember, you aren't paying anything for it, so that may be what
it's worth!
+ __/\/\________________________________
R1 | | |
10 ohms | > R2 | V+
1/4 watt | > 130k | pin7
| > |
| | LM10 |
| |______________________|\|
| | pin2 |-\_________
| > R3 ________________|+/ output |
| > 10k | | pin3 |/| pin6 > R4
| > |____|\ | | > 10k
C1 +_|_ | pin8 |-\__| | >
100uF ___ | ____|+/ Vref | _|_ |/ collector
25vdc | | +__|__ |/ pin1 | _\_/_ |
| | ___ 200mv | | |\ emitter
| | - |__________________| V- |
| | | pin4 | H11A817C
- ________|____|________________________|_________| optocoupler
The LM10's internal reference drives the first opamp to put 200mv on pin
3. R2 and R3 form a voltage divider to put 200mv on pin 2 when the cell
voltage is 2.8v. When the cell voltage goes below 2.8v, pin2 is less
than pin3, so the output pin6 goes high, which turns on the LED.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Are any of the Panasonic NIMH or advanced VLRA's available? Lawrence
Rhodes....
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have an 80 Jet 750 that sat for 18 years. If you are uptight have it gone
over & balanced. If you're like me run it and take a chance. 2500 miles
and no major problems. Lawrence Rhodes.........
----- Original Message -----
From: "kluge" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 12:24 PM
Subject: Should I be concerned?
Okay, I've taken possession of the '76 Courier I'm going to attempt to
revive (it was sitting in a back yard for three or four years, covered in
leaves and bird droppings) and I hooked the 4001 Prestolite up to a 12V
battery to see if it would run. It did - slowly at first, then picking up
speed before settling down to what I would WAG to be about 500 RPM. The
motor gave off a faint ticking sound, and also a faint squeak. Is
this a bad thing? Will it go away? Will it self destruct? Should I be
doing something about it before moving on to the other 232 items on my
list?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
$170 seems to be an excellent price for GM Ovonic NiMH batteries. The
pricing may reflect a trend, i.e., SAFT shifting from the production of
NiMH to Li ion batteries for the military.
Since these batteries could be 10 years old and have been used, what I
am trying to understand better is reported life cycle. The Advanced
Transportation Technology Institute
http://www.atti-info.org/technology/ev_tech.html reports >600 life
cycles for the NiMH battery compared with 500 life cycles for a typical
"floodie", ('flooded' lead acid). A dead "nimmie" is the same as a dead
"floodie", right? ("It's dead, Jim.") Or, am I missing something?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Can you tell if this truck list on gov sale is a straight electric
truck or some type of hybrid?
Calvin
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Gov auction fort benning ga. electric pickup
http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=694396&convertTo=USD
I just bid on this truck as I do not live very far from Fort
Benning. Assuming this is a total electric, even though it is list
as unrepairable by the gov. can I safely assume that will not be the
case for a newbie who really wants it to work?
Calvin
New to the list an not yet introduced as I am still in the lurking
stage trying to learn a little before I show all my ignorance.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks Mike, this info is really helpful.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: "Mike Chancey"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: 10/11/05 4:27:25 AM
To: "ev@listproc.sjsu.edu"<ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Suggestions on new Force
Noel, both my Forces had non-functional A/C systems when they
arrived. Both were simply too low on Freon, (R-134a) to function. R-134a
is much more prone to leaking out than the older R-12 units were, and
perhaps the custom hoses on the Solectrias aren't all they should be. I
suspect that may be all that is wrong with yours. The rate of Freon loss
has more to do with vehicle age and frequency of use than vehicle
miles. Mine were 1995s from New York and probably didn't get much A/C
use. One had 14,000 miles, the other had 9,800 miles. I had them
evacuated by a local shop and recharged. After that they both worked fine,
though typical of a Geo Metro they are rather weak.
I believe the ICS200 requires a 40 amp circuit. My Force doesn't have that
feature, though I do use an Avcon on my Civic EV.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
'95 Solectria Force
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
At 08:51 PM 10/10/2005, you wrote:
>Hey guys,
>
>My 1997 Force is going to be delivered soon!
>
>Mine has an A/C problem with only 11,000 Miles. Anyone on the list have
>A/C problems and found the cause? It is also coming with an Avcon
>ICS200. Does that have to be hardwired to a new circuit. Any
>suggestions on how many Amps the circuit should be? It also has a
>BC3300/NLG4 3.3KW unit with an extra plug in the trunk.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Noel L
>1997 Force (Awaiting Delivery)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Right, it has an AC motor which is supplied by DC batteries. The diesel that is
talked about is for the heater. If it is not working you can find out why and
hopefully fix it.
It is at $4,600 now which is still a good price.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Calvin King" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 1:50 PM
Subject: electric pickup
> Gov auction fort benning ga. electric pickup
>
> http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=694396&convertTo=USD
>
> I just bid on this truck as I do not live very far from Fort
> Benning. Assuming this is a total electric, even though it is list
> as unrepairable by the gov. can I safely assume that will not be the
> case for a newbie who really wants it to work?
> Calvin
>
> New to the list an not yet introduced as I am still in the lurking
> stage trying to learn a little before I show all my ignorance.
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
sorry for confusion, yes it's powercube brand, i purchased from him few
vicors, my mistake.
though for that price it need a test :^)
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Poulsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: DC to DC
> This doesn't appear to be a Vicor, and the spec sheet is pretty vague --
> No indication of the input range it will accept.
>
> http://powercube.com/pd301_c.htm
>
> Philippe Borges wrote:
> > Vicor 300V to 12V DC-DC 300W for 10$
> >
> >
http://cgi.ebay.fr/Powercube-DC-DC-Converter-300VDC-to-15VDC_W0QQitemZ7551767828QQcategoryZ4660QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> >
> > cordialement,
> > Philippe
> >
> > Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
> > quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
> > http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
> > Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
> > http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Neon John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 5:53 PM
> > Subject: Re: DC to DC
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Tue, 11 Oct 2005 09:19:29 -0400, "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)"
> >> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>> The big question I have is why would you want to spend $359 on a
> >>>
> > converter
> >
> >>> that can only put out only 20 amps? I would think the draw is much
more
> >>> than that.
> >>>
> >> You wouldn't and it depends. I've been quite happy with converters
> >> and power supplies from astrodyne. Most all are under $150 and many
> >> are under $100.
> >>
> >> Up to 100 volts, they make dedicated DC/DC converters. Above that,
> >> their standard switchmode power supplies can be used with DC input.
> >>
> >> John
> >> ---
> >> John De Armond
> >> See my website for my current email address
> >> http://www.johngsbbq.com
> >> Cleveland, Occupied TN
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I made a mistake posting them without asking supplier,
so, sorry, I had to take them out.
Victor
>
> From: Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2005/10/11 Tue AM 11:31:27 PDT
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
>
> Those pictures are 404 ...
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'll re-post if it's OK with the supplier.
I failed to ask first...
Victor
>
> From: "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2005/10/11 Tue PM 01:03:50 PDT
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Subject: Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
>
> it worked in the afternoon and now 404 too, Why did you take them out Victor
> ?
>
>
> Philippe
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Welcome to the EVDL Calvin :^D
It is possibly just a matter of the way the form is required to be filled
out.
On Ebay, you must list a number of cylinders to fill out the form
completely, it doen't matter that it "has no" cylinders. This could be the
case here. Same with the "electric/diesel fueled" entry, there may not be an
"electric only" option on the form.
Just a guess.
Looks like an electric Ranger to me.
AFAIK, Ford still supports these. (As in... anything is fixable as long as
the parts are not made of unobtainium).
Might just need the (assumed to be dead) batteries charged individually to
bring them up high enough for the Magnacharger to run. Might need battery
pack replacement. Pretty low miles for major component failure to be
occuring (3084!!!).
Good luck on your bidding.
Calvin King wrote:
Gov auction fort benning ga. electric pickup
http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=694396&convertTo=USD
I just bid on this truck as I do not live very far from Fort Benning.
Assuming this is a total electric, even though it is list as unrepairable
by the gov. can I safely assume that will not be the case for a newbie
who really wants it to work?
Calvin
New to the list an not yet introduced as I am still in the lurking stage
trying to learn a little before I show all my ignorance.
.
Roy LeMeur
Olympia WA
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Photos of the battery:
Someone posted this link which has photos of the
Cobasys batery:
http://www.cobasys.com/pdf/transportation/Series9500/Series_9500_Brochure.html
Ovonic ones have white plastic cover and 11 cells instead
of 10 for Cobasys'; otherwise they are identical looking
(The cells, straps, end plates, color, etc.)
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi list,
The truck at Ft Benning Ga is an S-10E, and is a 1997. As far as I know,
and have been helped to this by the knowledge on the list, it should have lead
acid battery pack. From the photo, it would look like the drivers door
window is broken out, but what, really, else could be wrong on a truck that
was
only used for 3000 miles. It looks like the Gov't used the truck untill it
was
forgotten. I was hoping to get it myself, but the retirement pay wont
stretch that far.
Good luck,
Bruce
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Excellent! Thanks for confirming it for me. I found a 12 volt, 20 amp PWM
controller kit from a link on this list recently and thought I'd chance it. I
wasn't sure if it would work, but now I will give it a try.
The controller uses a 5k pot like my Zilla, but I don't want them to operate in
parallel. I thought I'd hook up the second pot next to the main one but stagger
it's effect. I could run the cooling fan at a minimum speed until the throttle
is partway into it's travel. Then increase the cooling as the pedal continues
along. Maximum cooling with maximum throttle. This doesn't follow motor heat
directly, but trends along with my lead foot. Unfortunately this doesn't
provide for additional cooling when you take your foot off the pedal.
Another way would be to have some kind of temperature sensing mechanism that
would increase the cooling with motor heat. It could be as simple as a
bimetalic strip in the exhaust flow activating the pot. Automatic but tricky.
Or I could just have a knob in the car that I can turn up or down as I see fit.
Only as fool proof as the fool driving the car.
Thanks again Eric, Jim and Mark.
Dave Cover
Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 14:26:00 -0700
From: Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Electronics 101 question
Absolutely. Both limit the average current through the motor, but the
resistor option wastes power as heat -- the PWM method is much more
efficient.
You could easily cobble something together using an analog timer chip
and an appropriately sized transistor.
Dave Cover wrote:
> Or possibly Electricity 101.
>
> Here's the scenario; I have a simple 12 volt defrost/heater fan from a car.
> To change speeds, the switch on the dash powers the fan through different
> resistors. Standard for most cars.
>
> Can I control this motor with a 12 volt PWM controller instead? I want to use
> this fan for main motor cooling and would like to be able to vary the speed.
> I was just wondering if this was an option instead of using the
> resistor/switch method.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave Cover
>
>
>
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On 2005-10-11, Dave Cover wrote:
>
> The [fan] controller uses a 5k pot like my Zilla, but I don't
> want them to operate in parallel. [...]
> Another way would be to have some kind of temperature sensing
> mechanism that would increase the cooling with motor heat.
The simplest thing, I'd think, would be to use a temperature
switch and a trimpot so you can set an 'idle' speed for the fan
and when the temperature gets above the threshold temperature
the fan turns on 100%. Or two temperature switches / two trimpots
for a three-stage fan.
Is the fan at maximum when the resistance is 0 or 5K?
-----sharks
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Anyone know why some of the digests are so large? Normally each digest is
around 50 kb -- I've been seeing some, like 4806, that are hundreds of kbytes.
I though attachments are automatically filtered out?
Thanks for ideas -- I'm on dialup alot of the time so it adds up :)
Robb
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I do both. You can crimp the terminal using a V block
and the round portion of a ball peen hammer. I pound
until tight, then sweat the joint (with a tourch)
until no more solder enters the crimp. Still using
the same cables I made 12 years ago with flooded
leads.
Jimmy
--- Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Interesting,
> but does not solve the problems when soldering:
> - brittle or molten insulation
> - uncertain solder flow causing either not all
> strands
> to be connected or solder flowing too far into
> the cable
> causing a weak point where the cable is more
> stressed.
>
> I'll be crimping, even though I have been soldering
> all my life
> as I know the above problems when soldering
> first-hand.
>
> Regards,
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private:
> http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD#
> 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Martin Klingensmith
> Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 4:04 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Crimp versus solder (was: Cable
> Crimping Tools)
>
>
> You can buy a $15 propane torch at the home
> improvement store and use a
> spool of the rosin core solder that's on the rack
> right next to the torch.
> Just letting you know since you think it's more
> expensive.
> --
> Martin K
>
> Cor van de Water wrote:
>
> >Neon John wrote:
> >
> >
> >>My recommendation remains for *home* constructors
> is to solder the
> >>lugs whenever possible. Soldering can be done
> with tools most people
> >>already have at hand, propane torches, solder,
> flux, etc. No need to
> >>spend lots of money on a set of metal displacement
> crimpers.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >All my soldering irons are under 25W as they are
> intended for elctronics,
> >so I would need to buy a torch or 100+ Watt iron to
> do this kind of
> >soldering, also my solder is a very thin gauge and
> no flux allowed.
> >
> >On the other hand, I bought a hammer-crimper tool
> (picture just seen
> >in a recent post) for $20 including shipping on
> Ebay.
> >
> >I will be (home-) crimping. (Which I understand is
> also required by code)
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >Cor van de Water
> >Systems Architect
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Martin Klingensmith
> http://wwia.org/
> http://nnytech.net/
>
>
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This is mostly for our local group, but I know some folks need to know
in the Wider EV World..
Had a conference with about a dozen radio and TV program producers about
2 week ago. The POINT of the meeting was to introduce to the Producers
various Local Experts in various topics, which might be interesting to
Program Directors.
I was but ONE... But it has already bore 'children' as it were....
For I had an interview this a.m. with KMPS-FM Radio this a.m. which
will air on October 23ard between 7 am and 8 am.
Their Freq. for folks in the Pacific NW IS.... 94.1 on the FM dile.
Be there or be square.......
PS: Every minute of FREE air time is worth.. What $ Thousands...??
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
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James,
I measured the clamp and as shown in the picture and
it is 6 inches tall, the copper bars are 1.0 inch wide
x .25 thk. Actually the clamp in the voltbuggy is
around 5 inches tall. These clamps come in all shapes
and sizes. They can be expensive unless you find some
in a surplus store.
Jimmy
--- James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> At 07:34 PM 10/10/05 -0700, Jimmy wrote:
> >To answer your questions James, I did test the
> switch.
> > In racing you have to be able to disconnect a
> runaway
> >motor in the event of a crash (a short will blow
> the
> >fuse). I tested it several times at a minimum of
> 300
> >amps, 144 volts. There was a nice blue arc every
> >time, just as one would expect - unless you have it
> >submerged in a non conductive/inert gas or liquid.
> >The switch performed well after the tests and I
> have
> >been using it for 12 years. (You can see the
> vehicle
> >at http://www.dm3electrics.com/ the switch is
> sticking
> >out of the hood - driver side.)
>
> Hi Jimmy - and all.
>
> How big is it? There was no frame of reference in
> the photos apart from the
> welding. If it is capable of that performance, then
> it must be
> substantially bigger than I picture it to be. The
> photos on your web site
> are not clear enough to get a real idea of the size,
> but I can see from the
> slot in the hood that it must be quite big.
>
> I pictured something that would be good for a 12V
> system, and your comment
> about 'beating other racers' to me implied ICE
> racing.
>
> Could you give more detail on what it is made from?
> [please don't say
> something like "an XYZ from Home Depot" since the
> nearest Home Depot is
> several thousand miles away for me]. It is the type
> of home-made gadgetry
> that appeals to me, and if it works reliably and
> safely, then great!
>
>
> Regards
>
> James
> [1978 Daihatsu 1300kg cab/chassis truck under
> conversion to electric]
>
>
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Search e-bay for Lambda (sometimes listed as
lamda)power supplies. Most can handle AC or DC and
have multiple currents available at 12 or 15 volts.
Sometimes around $10.
Jimmy
--- "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The big question I have is why would you want to
> spend $359 on a converter
> that can only put out only 20 amps? I would think
> the draw is much more
> than that. I have seen some people put alternators
> on their conversions.
> Do they really draw down the motor that much or is
> it an effeciency thing?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Victor Tikhonov [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 9:15 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: DC to DC
>
>
> Michaela Merz wrote:
> > Hello everybody:
> >
> > I am looking for a nice (= powerful) DC-to-DC
> solution for input voltages
> > between 120 V and 156 V, output >200w
>
> Define "nice" a bit better. $359 250W DCDC250/144/14
> may be
> your good choice, see
> http://www.metricmind.com/dcdc.htm
>
> Victor
>
>
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Bravo!
--
Chris Buresh
St. Paul, MN
>
> The statement an enemy of my enemy is my friend I feel could be thought
> about
> long and hard by this community as we all live (and breathe) in an ICE world.
>
> As someone so new here I hope that is not to bold a statement to make. I
> came
> here a few months back with the urging of John Wayland to share with you all
> the
> process of tweaking an electric motor with some interesting modifications.
> He
> suggested that I would be an asset to the group while learning about EVs
> myself
> as well. Being Ive rebuilt golf cart, and forklift motors (all slow) for
> what
> feels like my entire life, the prospect of tweaking a motor let alone just
> putting one of these motors into a car was a thrill for me.
>
>
>
> Being one of the TEAM members that helped set a world record was in fact
> the
> coolest thing Ive ever been a part of. Along the way I feel Ive helped a
> few
> people, and I have met no one but friends. For the last 24 years there has
> never been a bigger conversation killer than my answer to the question what
> do
> you do for a living. Well John Wayland and this group changed that. I now
> direct anyone who wants more info. to the photo album, NEDRA, Plasmaboy, this
> list, Etc.
>
>
>
> I told several at Woodburn that I was hesitant to post more being new, and
> fearing Id take up web space in peoples mailboxes. Bob Rice (Awesome guy)
> was one of those who told me he enjoyed my posts and encouraged me to post
> more.
> I found this last series of threads funny as I was just asking my son Matt
> the
> other day as to what percentage of those on the list even read what I posted.
> I
> know there are many threads I either know nothing about or are of lower
> interest
> value to me, and I by-pass many threads as time is always a factor. Although
> I
> can tend to be long winded at times, I hope that I am not found by many to
> be
> a nuisance.
>
>
>
> Some people are Chevy fans others Ford, some like BMWs. I see it here as
> well
> on the list. While interviewing with Charles Platt last weekend he wanted a
> standardized or universal conversion kit for people. Impossible, we have
> always
> had a passion for the cars we drive and this list shows that EVers are no
> different, and in fact may be even more passionate.
>
>
>
> As far as my interest into daily drivers Im hoping that the conversion on
> Doug
> Weathers variable adjust brush rigging will allow him to time his motor to
> his
> cars system for the best range / performance possible (he chooses) allowing
> him
> to make small adjustment to see what degree of advancement his system will
> need
> to run its best.
>
>
>
> I will end with this. Yet again I had a new customer come by today and
> although
> I was unable to help him (busted starter yoke) I asked him you wanna see
> something cool?
>
> As we walked into the shop I asked him ever hear of EV racing? Yeah he says,
> I
> saw a PGE thingy once
No I said check this out and plopped a Zombie pic
> out.
> I was then able to show him the twin armatures all pretty still on the lathe.
>
> Ive always wanted to build an electric he says as he promises to stop back
> in
> soon.
>
>
>
> We all have a common enemy as we are stuck in a world that has its head up
> its
> a$$ (sorry). In 24 years Ive had just 6 motors come through my shop
> intended
> for an EV. Just one guy came back to show me the end results. Meeting John
> and
> connecting to this group has given me a tool that I can now use to show
> others.
> Their first conversion is up to them.
>
> Our first car will be a racer but I will have pamphlets that people can take
> home leading them to all the options and services available to new EV
> seedlings,
> and a plaque card with the cars FAQs so that people to shy to ask might at
> least read. This also might free my time for more informative discussion
> than
> just the basics. Anyway heres hoping we all know who the enemy is. This
> post
> is not to berate, but to unify all that you all are! As for me I like a
> little
> human interest with the story telling and all. Others may not. I care not
> if
> Im clicked or trashed as I came here to help, learn, and hopefully have a
> little fun while doing it.
>
> Thank you for listening.
>
>
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torq
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
>
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He asked for a DC-DC converter, not the power
supply. I suppose you understand the difference.
Why bother with something for $10 or even
for free if it won't do the job?
Victor
>
> From: Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Search e-bay for Lambda (sometimes listed as
> lamda)power supplies. Most can handle AC or DC and
> have multiple currents available at 12 or 15 volts.
> Sometimes around $10.
> Jimmy
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