EV Digest 4819
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) 1980 Rabbit vacuum or not?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: 1980 Rabbit vacuum or not?
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Pot Box?
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Introduction
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Curtis Sepex Regen Tweak
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Suspension/Alignment Adjustment (RE: Challenging Drive)
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) White Zombie to Attempt the 11's this Friday Night!
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Battery monitoring
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: White Zombie to Attempt the 11's this Friday Night!
by Mike Ellis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Pot Box?
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: rotary engine for generator
by William Brinsmead <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: rotary engine for generator, trains an' Stuff
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Bulletin!
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) rotary engine for generator/2 stoke diesel
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: rotary engine for generator
by "Jaroslaw \"Jaros\" Berezowski" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: rotary engine for generator
by "Jaroslaw \"Jaros\" Berezowski" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: rotary engine for generator, trains an' Stuff
by "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: rotary engine for generator
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: DC to DC **PLEASE CLOSE THREAD**
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
20) Re: rotary engine for generator
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: rotary engine for generator
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Pot Box?
by "gail donaldson lucas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) 1 to 5W ISOLATED DC to DC @ $15
by "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: rotary engine for generator, trains an' Stuff
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) CURTIS 1231C MOTOR CONTROLLER 72-120V 550 AMPS on e-bay
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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I wonder if anyone has converted a 1980 Rabbit and not had to use a brake
vacuum booster. Can it be retrofit to just plain hydrolics????? I think
this was the era when vacuum brakes were just coming in strong. Just a few
years earlier most cars didn't use it. My 72 1200 didn't. My 1980 Courier
doesn't. Can it be modified? In other words lose the vacuum pump.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Due to a faulty relay, I used the 1981 VoltsRabbit w/o
power brakes. It took quite a bit of muscle, but was
do-able.
I wanted the wife to accept it, and to be safe in all
situations, so I repaired the relay.
peace,
--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> I wonder if anyone has converted a 1980 Rabbit and
> not had to use a brake
> vacuum booster. Can it be retrofit to just plain
> hydrolics????? I think
> this was the era when vacuum brakes were just coming
> in strong. Just a few
> years earlier most cars didn't use it. My 72 1200
> didn't. My 1980 Courier
> doesn't. Can it be modified? In other words lose
> the vacuum pump.
> Lawrence Rhodes
> Bassoon/Contrabassoon
> Reedmaker
> Book 4/5 doubler
> Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
> 415-821-3519
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page!
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
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--- Begin Message ---
I'm coming in on this one late, but depending on how
your car is wired, it could be the microswitch, or a
relay going bad. They arc, and develop pitting after
a long time, if not protected by a diode.
--- Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Catherine,
> You may want to check your main contactor and see if
> it has been arcing (more that usual) and has a buld
> up
> of carbon. What controller do you have?
> Jimmy
>
> --- "Catherine C. Burgard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
> > I've got trouble again. When I step on the
> > accelerator sometimes it doesn't engage anything.
> > It can be totally cold or happen at a stop light
> > after driving awhile. Also driving along it just
> > disengaged from acceleration, nothing at the
> pedal,
> > but the batteries are fine. Does anyone know if
> the
> > pot box could be bad or going bad, and if it was
> > would it cause that sort of problem.
> > Catherine
> > '80 Commuta Car
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million
> > songs. Try it free.
> >
> >
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You melted the post likely from climbing a hill in
3rd. Too many batt. amps.
Try climbing in 2nd. Keep the RPMs up, and the amps
down. PS: You can get a new post melted on for $7 from
most battery places.
A schematic for the car is going to be close to what's
in "Convert It". Suggest you get a copy. You'll be
able to trace stuff.
As far as meters, you must be able to find the most
positive and most negative battery. They will go to
the controller and motor. Buy a voltmeter. True RMS
is best, as you'll be able to accurately know what's
going on during charge.
You didn't tell us your pack voltage (# batteries x
voltage per battery). Without that, we can't tell you
how high to set your charger. (;-p
blessings and peace to you as you tread lightly on
Creation.
Collegially,
--- Calvin King <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Ok, I will come out of lurk mode long enough to
> properly introduce
> myself then return to lurking. It is my goal to
> quietly read until I
> can understand most of what I read on this list and
> it looks like
> that maybe turn out to be along.
> I did bid on the E10 but decided to stop at $6100, I
> thought the risk
> for a newbie was getting too great.
> If someone on the list bought it, I would be
> interested in hearing
> how it turns out.
> Now the Intro:
> I live in a small town in south GA, Leesburg. I am
> a pastor which is
> another reason i stopped bidding as I began to doubt
> how much time
> might be required to get it running again. Like any
> other interest,
> my interest in electrics has to be secondary to the
> rest of my life.
> People come first and always will.
> A few weeks back I purchased a '81 Jet Electrica.
> It uses a Lynx
> sled. it is a 96V system using 16 - 6 volt Trojans
> (5, T605's and
> 11, T105's)
> It has a Curtis controller which I assume it is the
> original. Its
> tag says...
> Voltage 72 - 120 Model 1221-7401 serial # 145 883
> current 400.
> It has a K&W charger model BC20. After a frantic
> email to a name I
> found on the internet i was told how to track the
> problem and advised
> to join this list.
> It turned out that I had a battery post melt.
> Bypassed the battery
> and drove home. I have since replaced the battery
> with a used one
> and double checked all the battery connections.
> Since then the car has worked well.
> Now the problems. The meters are not connected and
> I have yet to
> figure out how to trace the disconnect and
> reconnect. The person I
> bought the car from did not know any thing about
> maintaining and
> repairing. Not having the meter to read the level
> of discharge is
> why I have not tested the car driving limits.
> Next issue is the charger. No paper work, so no
> instructions on most
> efficient operation. There are two ways to adjust
> the charger but
> without some instructions, I don't know what and how
> to do so I leave
> it as it is.
> That is enough for an introduction. I will return
> to lurking and
> learning. I will appreciate an information and
> advice that any care
> to give.
> Calvin King
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
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Howdy,
I would like to disable the regen on the accelerator peddle that automatically
occurs when I release my foot off the peddle. It also makes the motor hot and
I don't think is as efficient as coasting. I want to leave the brake peddle
regen though. It's a Curtis Model 1509-0202, 72V,300A serial 8132 1306, part
no. 2088 for Bombardier 99' nev. The motor is a "Electric Vehicle Power
Systems" I guess not ADC from Syracuse, NY 7" diam, 12" long model CB7 4002
serial 147 made 9/4/97. Does anyone know how to disable the accel-release
accelerator peddle regen?
I was thinking of adding a bias pot to the wiper of the accel peddle and
tweaking it till it stopped regen, but it seams like it's either motoring or
regen, either pushing or pulling, no in between.
Thanks, Mark
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Well said Don Cameron. I have Fred Phun's book, (it was recommended to
me by someone who actually has his car in it!) It is a great book.
I would like to add one thing about the bump steer that we need to
consider because conversions sometimes end up changing the ride height.
That bump steer curve looks kinda like a zener diode graph, it has a
nice section near the middle of the travel where changes are small, when
it gets closer to either end the changes get quicker and variable. A car
like that is "twitchy".
The other fun part is if the toe-in is insuffient to overcome the toe
out tendancy during a heavy brakeing. As it passes from toe-in to toe
out it wanders on it's own. The worst place to have the toe on a soft
suspension is at zero or very close to zero, the wandering during
brakeing can take two hands.
Changing bushings to allow tighter suspension settings will help
tremendously.
I was autocrossing a beast, a mitsubishi PU. I had lowered it and it was
all over the place, It turned out that the pivot points of the steering
linkagaes no longer lined up with the suspension pivots and a this had
the same effect to the driver as bump steer. The teltale of this was
that once lowered the steering wheel no longer was straight when I was
headed straight.
I found I could make the little mitsubishi feel like a cadilac with
power steering, a dump truck without,or a little european sports car.
Amazing, BUY THE BOOK!!
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Hello to All,
The weather isn't cooperating very much with us right now :-( The
forecasters can't pin down when this cold front with wind and rain is
blowing in exactly...they'll only say late on Friday. Until it arrives
though, it's supposed to be sunny and hit 70 today. We're still planning
on hitting the track today and hopefully, can make runs before we get
rained out.
Mike Ellis wrote:
I just want to thank you, John and Tim, for your efforts and your accounts
of your nights at the strip.
And thank you, for the kudos...it's very much appreciated! I sometimes
worry about posting about White Zombie too often, but I can't help but
share the good things that have been going on at the track nearly every
time we've raced...OK, there 'was' that night where we only got one run
in and I stupidly locked us out of our base camp - charging station
service truck! Quite frankly, it's helped me along the way, too, as
many of the EVDL listites have made good observations and have given
back good suggestions.
I get a real thrill reading them....
Again, thank you. It's nice to know I haven't bored everyone yet :-)
and I am
always showing the videos of your races to my coworkers.
Yes, that's what I want to hear! Spread the EV word, show folks they can
be fun as well as practical. I'd love to hear your account of their
reactions to what you've shown them.
Good luck this weekend!
Thanks. Saturday is now out as an option, as the PIR track will be
reconfigured for a big road racing event, and that, might get rained
out. Friday has rain predicted, but the cold weather front is not
supposed to come in until later in the evening. Tim and I 'should' be
off work a few hours earlier than normal. If the track opens at 5:00 pm,
we'll be there in line to get in on time. For now, it's still sunny and
warm (for October in Oregon).
Call for video cams......anybody in the Portland metro area, please come
cheer Tim on and perhaps capture with video, a street legal electric
door slammer passing through the 1/4 mile for the first time ever, in a
sub-12, high 11second run! I've got a camcorder for someone to run as
well....I suck at operating a camcorder, and I am too busy doing PR and
charging duties to have a camcorder stuck to my head. We're hoping to
have one of my Mac's in the car to log data from every run as well. The
tach drive sensor still needs to be finished. If we get it all hooked up
in time, Mark Farver will be called on to post those killer graphs he's
done...Mark?
See Ya (Friday at PIR)....John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
http://www.plasmaboyracing.com
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I just ran accross this little widget and thouht it may be of use, I
haven't looked into it, it is probably just a level converter in a case.
http://www.dashmatics.com/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=58
I am considering going this route for audio and ancillary displays in my
EV.
http://www.dashwerks.com/dw_dssc.php
The interesting part is if you look at "the wares" you'll find some
interesting interfaceing hardware with software for both linux and windows.
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--- Begin Message ---
On 10/14/05, John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> And thank you, for the kudos...it's very much appreciated! I sometimes
...
Again, thank you. It's nice to know I haven't bored everyone yet :-)
>
> > and I am
> >always showing the videos of your races to my coworkers.
> >
> >
> Yes, that's what I want to hear! Spread the EV word, show folks they can
> be fun as well as practical. I'd love to hear your account of their
> reactions to what you've shown them.
Actually, I have been toying with the idea of posting an entry at
www.digg.com <http://www.digg.com> with a link to your site (actually, I
already did in a comment on another story, but this would hopefully make the
front page). Previous posts regarding high performance hybrids have been
quite popular there. However, digg has become very popular and can produce a
"slashdot effect" which can bankrupt someone with bandwidth charges. Let me
know if you would like me to do so.
Thanks again and good luck,
-Mike
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Dose it have a micro switch on the pot box ,, when the pot in the box goes
bad you get a kind of jurky feel when holding the pebble in one spot. The
not engaging sounds more like the micro switch , . I've just jumped the
switch ( after trunning on the ev) to test for this . . what kind of
controller do you have , ? steve clunn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Catherine C. Burgard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 10:28 PM
Subject: Pot Box?
I've got trouble again. When I step on the accelerator sometimes it
doesn't engage anything. It can be totally cold or happen at a stop light
after driving awhile. Also driving along it just disengaged from
acceleration, nothing at the pedal, but the batteries are fine. Does
anyone know if the pot box could be bad or going bad, and if it was would
it cause that sort of problem.
Catherine
'80 Commuta Car
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi Folks,
May I suggest a surplus aircraft 20 and up to 90kw 120/ 208 volt 400 cy
alternator for a apu generator, 3 phase into a bridge and control it
with the field. I did this in the 70s with a 2cyl diahatsu water cooled
motor it worked well. Bill B.
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Neon John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 12:16 AM
Subject: Re: rotary engine for generator
> Impossible, as a practical matter, at least with conventional
> 2-strokes. The process of scavenging passes a good deal of fresh
> charge out the exhaust port. A tuned exhaust (expansion chamber)
> forces some of that back in just before the port closes but not all.
> Thus the unburned HC is off the charts even if the actual mixture is
> lean. Since there is excess oxygen in the exhaust also, some of the
> mix oxidizes from the heat, resulting in high CO.
>
> The way the OEMs have addressed this is DFI - direct injection into
> the cylinder. There is no fuel in the crankcase. The fuel is
> injected directly into the cylinder on the compression stroke after
> the exhaust port has closed. The scavenging air contains no fuel and
> so few hydrocarbons. Because the scavenging varies so much with
> engine speed, maintaining the correct stoich mixture for a cat
> converter is still considered very difficult to impossible.
> Hi EVerybody;
That pretty much describes the 2 verses 4 stroke thing. I might mention
the Diseasel Loco thing here,EMD which is the General Motors line of lokies,
although I believe they have dumped lokies in their "lightening ship" mode
to stay solvent. They ,GM built the best locomotives on the Planet, with the
2 stroke design. Amtrak moved with the F-40 model, a gussieng up of the
freight GP-40 which was almost perpetual motion, They would go in snow or
tropics, almost underwater, and any train driver will speak fondly of them.
The Diesels victory over steam is amazing, in 20 years it swept steam from
US rails. The auto like comvenience, crank it up, drive off, after letting
it warm up a bit, shut it down when done. Steam, like real horses, had to be
tended weather it was working or not. Electro Motive Division, That's EMD,
nice name for a E car co, but I'm afraid it's taken<g>!They went from day
one, almost with a two stroke to get enough power into a engine to be
meaningful AND still fit in a train carbody; weight, the more the merrier,
but the width of the train, 10 foot was a major as well as height, as it's
nice to be able to fit through tunnels the steamers could!. Steam folks were
not taking this lying down, superheaters higher boiler pressure , oil firing
as well as coal stokers as one or two firepersons couldn't keep enough coal
going in to do speeds that Amtrak has never matched out west or anywhere the
wire hasn't gone up. The Old Art Deco steam streamstyled NYC Hudson ran 16
hours NYC Chicago, thats about 990 miles, in the 30's Diseasels back then
when Speed sold train tickets, clipped about an hour off that because taking
on coal and water was time consuming. A Diseasel could make Chi-NYC on two
tanks of fuel, NO water stop, and could cruise at 100 MPH as long as track
permitted. Hy speeds was hard on steamers all that picturesque side rods and
valve regalia was a lot of HEAVY rotating mass. Builders were never able to
balance them as elegently as car engine engineers. They beat the hell out of
the track, too, the Diesel, with it's electric drive was soft and easy on
the track, bringing a sorta EV grin to the Maintainence folks. The 2 stroke
engine could spin the big Generaters, DC, briskly enough to satisfy the
traction motors desire for amps, as they were and still are electrics with
their power station tucked aboard. The same gennies were the starters, too.
Tickled to life by the "SLI" 60 volts of battery,on starting.
GM wasn't alone in the Diesel lokie thing, Baldwin, BIG steamer builder,
dove in with a 4 stroke, as did American Locomotive ,ALCO, with theirs,
Fairbanks Morse, with a variation of their submarine engine, a opposed
piston thing, think of two 6 or more in line cylinder blocks bolted head to
head, one on top of the other. Made a very TALL engine and FM lokies had a
very destinctive body profile! The idea was nice, made a very smooth engine,
Navy and tug boat guyz liked them, but the nuts and bolts problems, did FM
in, and they faded from thre scene rather quickly. Some survive at RR
museums, for your viewing pleasure<g>! The Diesel Switch swept away in a
few years the BIGs of locomotive production, sorta like the EV thing could
make GM Ford Chrysler all those guyz, it could happen to them, it happened
on the RR. Baldwin just didn't keep up with the new tech, they were peddling
steamers AFTER WW2 when the handwriting was on the wall for Diseasels, they
shoulda hired the best diesel guyz on the planet to out do General Motors,
in the Diesel Prime Mover dept. Electric part was allready perfected. GE and
Westinghouse had bulletproof, unbreakable electrics, and stuff in that dept.
GM reigned supreme for years. General Electric bought out ALCO and
carried on with a 4 stroke design, inherited from Alco, kept going at it and
cleaning it up to pass EVer tightning air quality standards. GE went fron a
almost forgotten second cousin to the BIG in freight lokies, actually
passing EMD in sales. There IS competition in Diesel lokie sales now. GE
claims with their 4 strokes thast they can meet higher emmission standards
than the 2 strokers. EMD has felt the pinch and had developed the 4 stroke
of their own, I think all the newer stuff from EMD is 4 stroke, correct me
if I'm wrong, for easier stack cleaning. All this Diesel power is poured
into alternaters and AC traction motors, I can see Victor smiling, No
brushes, will run underwater, easier to control wheelslip, the bane of
lokies since the "Tom Thumb" and of course nice regen, but it goes into big
ugly resisters. Sigh!
IN the GE 4 stroke design, in lokies it comes at a price. The EMD 2
stroke engines respond to throttle almost instantly, the F-40 will run away
from the P30 GE offerings off the line, important in drag racing or meeting
commuter stop an' go stuff. the GE is PAINFULLY SLOW in getting going,
because polution controls wind the Diesel up VERY slow to keep the clouds of
smoke from turbocharger lag, a Alco signiture thing, under control. First
time I ran a GE I called the electrical foreman on, to ask "What's WRONG?"
with this thing?? It doesn't GO! Well, he said, you'll have to get used to
it's glacial starting habits. What!? 0 to 60 in , what? ten minutes?Well not
quite THAT bad, but used to the 0-to60 in about a minute with EMD's was a
letdown. Once the GE's get going the'll cruise at any reasonable top speed
you'd like ,up to 110mph, what they are geared for.Patience. By then the
Zombie's made 6 runs<g>!You see the GE's doing their thing on the Empire
Builder across Montana, Portland to Chicago in two daze! FLYING compared to
driving that distance!!
Muy on trak observations the $%^& 4 stroke Diseasels idle smoking the
train yard up SO bad that the controll tower guyz complained to Amtrak,
parked NEXT to the tower. because of the CLOUDS of Diseasel smoke. The 2
stroke idled cleanly no smoke at ALL. I don't know how GE got around thast
part of the air polution thing?? Seems to me if the damn engine smokes,
clouds of it, it can't be cleaner? But the argument with the GE's I have
been told was that they are cleaner then the 2 strokes and more fuel
efficient. I would like to see these figures, as I would like to see how
much money Amtrak has saved by going electric between New Haven and Boston,
5 years ago. Not stuff they put in their cool Travel Amtrak travel
broshures. F-40 did about 2 gal to the mile, that I remember, if ya figure
you could take ALL your friends and enemies, over 800 seats in a 10 car
train, it figures out decently in the seat miles per gallon dept. the Acela
Electrics gotta do better as they pour power BACK into the overhead wires on
braking. My argument for electrfying ALL major RR routes.
OK back on topic awile after training away.
> It seems to me that if one wanted to experiment with a lightweight
> 2-stroke engine that had a chance of having low emissions, he'd start
> with a modern DFI 2-stroke outboard motor. Water cooling allows
> tighter clearances in the engine which results in lower HC emissions
> because less unburnt fuel is trapped in the space between the piston
> and cylinder and behind the rings. This type of engine would be the
> cleanest available 2-stroke to start with. How much more it could be
> cleaned up is anyone's guess.
> EMD has been working on it for years!
> There continues to be a lot of work done by those evil car companies
> on direct charge 2-stroke engines. This is similar to the Detroit
> Diesel 2-stroke diesel where scavenging is via a supercharger. If
> this style 2-stroke could be made emission-compliant, it would be a
> boon since the 2-stroke has so many fewer parts. So far, no joy.
>
> At the risk of being perceived as abrasive by some delicate souls, I
> have to ask the obvious question. If you're going to drag around an
> IC engine and you're concerned about emissions, why not just leave the
> OEM engine in place? It is far cleaner than anything you can conjure
> up at home. If you absolutely have to stick an electric motor in the
> car, then why not get a 4WD version, transplant a 2WD
> engine/transmission/transaxle and put the motor on the other end?
> Whipping up some microprocessor smarts to lash together the gas and
> electric propulsion modules would be VASTLY easier than trying to do a
> DIY emission control system.
> GREAT! idea, the car folks have done their homework for you!
> It STILL seems to me that the most rational approach is the one I've
> taken, a nice conventional car for long trips and an EV for
> around-town driving. My long trips are fairly rare and my gas car
> gets good mileage (almost 30 on the highway) so neither the amount of
> fuel I use nor the cost is significant.
Best idea, got a Prius for the PDX trips and the EV for the 'Gofur"
stuff, works for me, I'm lucky to have both the space and means to support
two cars. Just sent State of CT 85 bux for my two year tags, for EACH car!
>
> As I've mentioned before, I do carry a small (1kw) gas generator with
> me in the EV for emergency charging. I do have to park to charge,
> however, as my generator can only send a few amps to the pack. I've
> only had to use it a couple of times which is an acceptable frequency
> for me. I do occasionally set it out and crank it when I'm going to
> be someplace for awhile just to lower the DOD on my pack.
> If I do PDX in an electric I would do just that, an my smoozing ability
to "borrow" some outlets on the way<g>!
Seeya
Bob
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Hi All;
This just in !Jerry Dycus is ALMOST here to CT. He just called, from Penn
Station, NY. Motorcycle crapped out, wanna go get him with my Ford Van and
bring the entraurage back to CT Trailer in tow, bike inside. Hope he calls
back, so I can go collect him. Jerry!! Call me back I'm ready to come an' get
you!
I'll let ya know what's happening when I do!
Seeya
Bob
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I have three generations of 2 stroke Detoit Diesel in
my yard. The exhaust does not go out through the case
like a motor cycle engine but rather through
perforations at the bottom of the cylinder through an
exhaust channel then out the side of the block. The
engine holds 36 quarts of oil that are splashed
sprayed and pumped through everything on the motor and
attached to it, including the air compressor,
supercharger, turbocharger and through the alternator.
oill is sprayed onto the underside of the pistons to
keep them cool. This tangled web of oil filled tubes
generally has at least one leak somewhere, so
lubrication is not the problem in a detroit diesel.
everything is lubricated including the back of my bus
and the car behind me.
my oldest DD has mechanical injection with a
supercharger. It puts out 315 hp with a redline of
1700 rpm. It also puts out a fair amount of soot. the
next generation has an additional turbocharger,
smaller injectors and a ceramic combustor in the
exhaust to clean up the soot. It is much cleaner but
only puts out 277 hp. The latest generation has the
addition of electronic fuel injection. This one runs
so clean I have never even seen any soot from it's
exhaust. however that might have something to do with
the fact that it puts out only 253 hp. all three
motors have dispacements of about 560 cubic inches.
each has 4 intake valves. These motors move alot of
air. The air cleaner is the size of a medium trash
can. They run very smoothly since they fire on every
cycle. Theoretically they should put out double the
power of a four stoke of the same size but the reality
is closer to one and a half. Twice the fuel
consumtion and one and a half times the power. Not a
good candidate for conservation.
Gadget
> Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 03:22:06 -0400
>
> On Fri, 14 Oct 2005 01:53:44 -0500, Danny Miller
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> >I'm curious as to how they deal with lubrication.
> 2-strokes require oil
> >in the fuel not only to lubricate the rings but
> because the bearings are
> >exposed inside the crank case, so what did they do
> about that when the
> >fuel goes straight into the cylinder?
>
> Just like a 4-stroke, with a conventional crankcase
> and oil sump. The
> detroit diesel piston is fairly long and contains an
> oil control ring
> on the bottom of the skirt below the intake ports.
>
> John
> ---
> John De Armond
> See my website for my current email address
> http://www.johngsbbq.com
> Cleveland, Occupied TN
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
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reb napisał(a):
7000rpm wankel engine ?
if it sounds anything like the microlight rotary engines you are going to need
a really big silencer if you want to use it as a generator in a car !
nice power to weight in these little rotary motors and pretty reliable now -
but the noise is always the problem
you could always tell people your car is a new trabant model
That's the reason I'd prefer something like that Delphi's 5kW SOFC APU.
I do hope they will finally commercialize it.
--
Jaroslaw "Jaros" Berezowski
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reb napisał(a):
7000rpm wankel engine ?
if it sounds anything like the microlight rotary engines you are going to need
a really big silencer if you want to use it as a generator in a car !
nice power to weight in these little rotary motors and pretty reliable now -
but the noise is always the problem
you could always tell people your car is a new trabant model
And that's the reason I'd prefer something like that Delphi's 5kW SOFC
APU. I do hope they will finally commercialize it.
--
Jaroslaw "Jaros" Berezowski
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Bob, I just love it when you get going on some RR history.
Its like you can't stop until you get to the next siding, or you get bumped
from behind.:)
Great stuff.
__________
Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
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On 10/14/05, Jaroslaw Jaros Berezowski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > nice power to weight in these little rotary motors and pretty reliable now
> > - but the noise is always the problem
> > you could always tell people your car is a new trabant model
> That's the reason I'd prefer something like that Delphi's 5kW SOFC APU.
> I do hope they will finally commercialize it.
Yes, I'd like one of those too :)
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I wholeheartedly agree with this post.
There are others on the list way more abrasive and inflamatory.
Surely we all cant all be so fragile that a differing opinion ties our panties
in a knot...
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 08:03:28 -0600
Subject: RE: FW: DC to DC **PLEASE CLOSE THREAD**
David,
It appears you have an issue with "everything Neon John posts". I understand
where you get that from because in the past, yes John has ignited some fires
with his refreshing "lack of political correctness". However, in the post you
are referring to he has shown considerable restraint and I did not detect any
flame-bait. He also, as usual, supported his opinions with factual examples.
I feel that this time it is you who owe John an apology for implying that he
wouldn't let the thread go and asking him to leave the list.
Please don't keep harrasing him to leave the list because of his posting of
opinions, which some of us agree with him on, are too chicken-shit to post
ourselves for fear of being asked to leave.
I personally can't decide who has the most informative posts, Lee or John.
True,
they have different styles, but I for one welcome both of their inputs. They
are
both highly knowledgeable in this field. Their "error checking" of each other,
I
feel, is welcomed.
I don't think John will leave. But, I don't think he should be constantly
harrassed about it either.
I will not respond publicly to this thread again.
Stay Charged!
Hump
Original Message -----------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David Roden
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 4:10 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: DC to DC **PLEASE CLOSE THREAD**
On 13 Oct 2005 at 3:18, Neon John wrote:
> I suppose the first item is to attempt to disabuse you of the
> sophomoric Madison Avenue-generated idea of there always being the one
> True Best Product and the corollary that more money buys "better".
No, that is not the first item nor the last. There is no need for you to
disabuse anyone of anything. Your views on this matter are not relevant.
That is not the purpose of this list.
The thread's originator has declared his problem solved. It's time to close
this thread. Let it go, please. If you can't, then please leave the list.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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On 10/14/05, Mark Grasser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Not sure what you guys think you need 75hp for but I think it's a little bit
> of over
> kill and certainly won't be much in the fuel economy department.
75HP is flat out. There's no need to run it flat out though, it'll be
quieter and cooler running slower.
>From the rotapower FAQ (same technology), fuel consumption is "around
.5lb of gasoline per HP/HR at 4500 RPM and ~40 HP". How do 4-stroke
piston engines compare? I don't know off-hand.
But 40HP probably translates to around 20 kW after the generator,
rectifier, controller and motor, which isn't overkill for a large
vehicle moving at a reasonable speed.
I'm sure it has its disadvantages, but if someone is considering using
an APU, they'll maybe have already found out that available air cooled
industrial engines have bad emissions, air cooled diesels are rather
heavy (and expensive) an actual car engine too bulky. So maybe it's
worth looking into, that's all.
Regards
Evan
> >>I believe Wankels are less efficient than reciprocating engines.
> >> Tim
> >>
> >> Evan Tuer wrote:
> >>
> >>>http://www.rotamax.net/650.html
> >>>
> >>>Says they are now taking orders for this 650cc wankel engine.
> >>>75 HP @ 6,700 RPM
> >>>110 lbs
> >>>44.5cm L x 42cm W x 44.5cm H
> >>>
> >>>"Configurable for other light fuels such as natural gas, alcohol,
> >>>propane, etc. at additional cost."
> >>>
> >>>Might make a good APU for a big EV-pickup or something.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
>
>
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http://www.reference.com/browse/wiki/Specific_fuel_consumption
Varies an awful lot by engine and application though. You've got a
Prius on one side and old Ford on the other. While the vehicle weight
and aerodynamics make a lot of difference, those engines have radically
different specific fuel consumption.
Danny
Evan Tuer wrote:
From the rotapower FAQ (same technology), fuel consumption is "around
.5lb of gasoline per HP/HR at 4500 RPM and ~40 HP". How do 4-stroke
piston engines compare? I don't know off-hand.
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Catherine,
I would guess it might be a micro switch. I don't know what one does, but
twice when my Comutacars have quit responding the repair people have
replaced the micro switches and all has been well. One car would not move
when I was stopped for a light and I had to push it around the corner, in
heels, which is why I keep tennis shoes in the back of the cars now. I had
Walker the towing company pick it up. The other time, I was driving along
and all of a sudden there was no response on the accelerator. A nice lady
with an ice cream truck stopped and helped me push it out of the traffic
and I called Walker again. Right now, two of my Comutacars are acting up,
but have not totally quit on me. They are parked in the driveway until I
get the EV guys over to see what is wrong with them. One does not go into
the first gear, jumps into the second click and then the third. The other
will only jump right to the third, skips the first two. I am not going to
drive either of them until they are back to normal. I hate pushing them,
hate paying Walker to haul them, and with all the Hummers around here I
expect I could be run over without being noticed.
If you don't get your problem resolved I will get back to you when I find
out what the current glitches are, as they may be the same.
Gail
> [Original Message]
> From: Catherine C. Burgard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: EV List <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Date: 10/13/2005 8:31:20 PM
> Subject: Pot Box?
>
> I've got trouble again. When I step on the accelerator sometimes it
doesn't engage anything. It can be totally cold or happen at a stop light
after driving awhile. Also driving along it just disengaged from
acceleration, nothing at the pedal, but the batteries are fine. Does anyone
know if the pot box could be bad or going bad, and if it was would it cause
that sort of problem.
> Catherine
> '80 Commuta Car
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
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How much juice does an e-meter require?
I have used Burr Brown parts (HPR1xx series) similar to these in the past
for isolated voltage measurement circuitry:
Industrial temp rated, isolated, sealed, point of load, TINY DC/DC
converters.
5,12,24,48V input
+/- 5,9,12,15V output
1W to 10W power ranges available
Tiny 8mmx10mmx20mm packages!
http://www.mouser.com/?No=25&handler=data.listcategory&Ne=601&crc=true&Ns=SField&N=58018
or www.mouser.com and search for C&D Technologies products NMH1212S or
similar.
The manufacturer's link is www.dc-dc.com - click on Products->DC to DC
converters for a whole range of products that are fairly inexpensive and
useful.
One caution: the NMH 12V input parts will take maximum 13.2V input, so a
"pre-regulator" such as an LM7812 could be used to make sure any charging
voltage doesn't fry the part.
Adrian
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Hi Andre;
Gee! Thanks, SOMEbody's reading my stuff<G>! I harp on RR stuff, becides
being a RR buff, and 30 years at Amtrak, best set of electric trains I
EVerhad! Sorta sets the tone. I always marveled at electrics since I was a
kid, in my deformative years, and riding trolleys, I'm an old fart,and
trains. Train tech applies alot to EV stuff today. J Wayland is EVen using
it in the Zombie, series paralleling. If he duz all of it he could field
shunt too<g>! Old trick to speed up old trolley cars!
Goofd stuff comes bytrain still. Just Picked Jerry Dycus up at the
train, as the bike didn't get past Newark, NJ. We will go retreave it
monday.
Seeya
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: rotary engine for generator, trains an' Stuff
> Bob, I just love it when you get going on some RR history.
> Its like you can't stop until you get to the next siding, or you get
bumped
> from behind.:)
> Great stuff.
>
>
> __________
> Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
>
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also included is AN FB1-4001 MOTOR. Unfortunately, it is local pickup only,
so I can't buy it (otherwise I just might buy it now). Thought I would pass
the info on to someone in the southwest. My expectation is that someone will
buy it now at that price, so look fast if you want it.
Steve
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