EV Digest 4824
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Batteries from China
by "Mark Grasser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Another attempt at electric-powered helicopters...
by "Tim Stephenson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: 1/8-Inch End Plates
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Possible Conversion
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) index EV
by Seth Rothenberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Liquid cooling package now available
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: [RAV4-EV] FW: CALSTART's Conference in LA Dec. 1st
by Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Charging off peak vs Battery life
by Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) CALSTART's Conference in LA Dec. 1st
by Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Charging off peak vs Battery life
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Liquid cooling package now available
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Liquid cooling package now available
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Jet Electrica
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
14) NO ATTACHMENTS PLEASE (was: K&W BC-20 Opperation)
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Peanut Gallery
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: rotary engine for generator/2 stoke diesel
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: 1/8-Inch End Plates - TS cells
by "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: PFC-30 Wanted
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: more name calling from John
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: PFC-30 Wanted
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Liquid cooling package now available
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Liquid cooling package now available
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Liquid cooling package now available
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Current Eliminator News Ranked 3rd in Az Super pro division.
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
25) Fet Switch (for heater etc)
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc)
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Curtis Sepex Regen Tweak
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: more name calling from John
by mreish <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) 2 renault le car R5 - pretty complete rust free cars
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Exide Floodeds vs AGM
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Any comments on Hall effect throttle controls?
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc)
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I've probably been by the factory three or four times!!!!
Batteries from China, everything I've read tells me not to.
Mark Grasser
Subject: Batteries from China
Does anyone know anything about this company or their
products?
http://www.chiway-battery.com
Jimmy
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.comics.com/creators/ballardst/archive/ballardst-20051003.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Fowler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Subject: RE: 1/8-Inch End Plates
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 16:30:27 +1000
From: "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
I've used 3mm Al plate (about 1/8") with M6 threaded bar for end plates
and side straps.
(to squeeze TS batts into extra nooks and crannies :-)
Here's some early construction pics.
http://www.thefowlers.homeip.net/EClubman-all/target115.html
http://www.thefowlers.homeip.net/EClubman-all/target118.html
Mark, that is a tight squeeze. Do you ever see the batteries swell on charge?
What size cable did you use for the interconnects? How much current does it
carry? Does the cable get warm?
Thanks,
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ah yes, and I agree. The 914 tends to be more flexible. That's one
reason I got a hard roof, rather than a targa top, to get a stronger,
more rigid vehicle.
--- Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Sorry, my big time screw up, i was talking about the
> 914. Yikes!
__________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
index EV
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ok Ryan... I want one.
Money or trade???
I will test it out on the 75K...
But... supply me with pump specs...GPM...head pressues, Radiator BTU... and
GPM numbers. What's the peak temp we can run the pump and radiator at?
$159... and you can make a profit??? I am impressed.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Bohm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 2:52 PM
Subject: Liquid cooling package now available
> Hi EVeryone!
>
> After doing quite a bit of searching and researching, I have come up
> with a liquid cooling package that can be used with the Zillas or the
> upcoming liquid cooled PFC chargers. I still have long-term and abuse
> testing to do with the components that have been chosen, but from the
> testing I have done so far, I have been quite satisfied with the
> combination.
>
> When I began the process of assembling the liquid cooling system for my
> Zilla about 1+ years ago, I was a bit lost on how I should assemble it.
> I wasted time and money scrapping together a pretty ugly combination of
> radiator, pump with a plastic coffee-storing jug as a reservoir,
> inverter for pump, and 3/8" to 3/4" juggle of fittings for size
> conversion. It worked, but was less than elegant, and took a lot of
> time to assemble. So I decided to put together a nifty package with all
> of the necessary components (and I mean *all*!) to liquid cool a piece
> of equipment like the Zilla.
>
> So, I invite anyone interested to take a look at what I've assembled at:
>
> http://www.evsource.com/tls_cooling.php
>
> ...and give me feedback. The package picture is already outdated (and
> my 5 year old digital camera finally gave up the ghost, so an update
> will appear when I decide what new camera to get).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ryan
> --
> - EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
> Selling names like Zilla, PFC Chargers, WarP, and PowerCheq
> All at the best prices available!
> E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Are you surprised at that? WooHoo! Hop on that Hydrogen Highway, y'all!
Damn the physics! Full steam ahead!
Marv
on 10.16.05 5:20 PM, Jeff Chan at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> On Sunday, October 16, 2005, 12:38:27 PM, Marvin Campbell wrote:
>> Here's Mr. Boesel's reply to my letter.
>
> FWIW I got a similar reply from Jim in response to my letter.
> Seems like they have already decided to ignore EVs at this
> conference. :-( :-( :-(
>
> Jeff C.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich and Joe:
Is there another way to turn the PFC charger off other than interrupting
its main power feed?
Internally I think the Enable line on the header between power stage and
control board can be used.. the charger fans will still run but output
goes to 0%.
Externally can't the regbus be used? IIRC connecting pin 2 of the
regbus connector (hottest reg signal) to pin 1 (+5vdc) forces the
charger to 0%. Yes?
A spinkler timer would work fine with this low current/low voltage signal.
This is something I never thought of, adding a real time clock to my
charger control board. Have to figure out an easy way to add that as an
option.
Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Details at: www.calstart.org
AFAIK, the only prerequisite required is $150.
I drop that at the sushi bar (when I take the kid, that is).
Great fun to attend these things and ask the FC folks about FC vs. EV energy
efficiency. And when you ask about that, they ALWAYS try to make it sound
like the energy is somehow going to be cheap, plentiful, and from solar
and/or wind.
And THAT'S why we should support a system that uses 4x more energy than a
BEV.
Marv
> From: keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 17:35:35 -0700 (PDT)
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: FW: CALSTART's Conference in LA Dec. 1st
>
> do we have to sign up and/or pay a fee to go to this
> conference..f so do you know where we sign up and what
> the requisites for participation might be...???
>
> --- Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark;
Yes.
Yes.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Farver" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 7:52 PM
Subject: Re: Charging off peak vs Battery life
> Rich and Joe:
>
> Is there another way to turn the PFC charger off other than interrupting
> its main power feed?
>
> Internally I think the Enable line on the header between power stage and
> control board can be used.. the charger fans will still run but output
> goes to 0%.
>
> Externally can't the regbus be used? IIRC connecting pin 2 of the
> regbus connector (hottest reg signal) to pin 1 (+5vdc) forces the
> charger to 0%. Yes?
>
> A spinkler timer would work fine with this low current/low voltage signal.
>
> This is something I never thought of, adding a real time clock to my
> charger control board. Have to figure out an easy way to add that as an
> option.
>
> Mark
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sun, 16 Oct 2005 00:42:04 -0500, Danny Miller
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>You wouldn't want to use a rheostat (resistor). Since voltage drop is
>proportional to current, when it tries to draw high currents to get
>started it may not even be able to start.
Please don't present guessing as fact. That is incorrect. I use a
Shurflow pump running at reduced speed as the circulating pump for my
TIG torch. It works just fine and is practically silent. I use an
Ohmmite rheostat that I happen to have in my junk box but the heater
fan control is a good inexpensive substitute.
>
>That's also a demand pump. It may not operate correctly in this type of
>system because the pump has an integral switch which will shut off
>automatically when the output pressure is high (faucet is off). That
>condition shouldn't occur in theory, but I wouldn't entirely rule it out.
The demand switch (actually a pressure switch) has nothing to do with
this application since the pressure will never rise anywhere near the
default setpoint of 40 psi. Since the setpoint is adjustable, one
could set it down to say, 10 or 20 psi to protect the plumbing in the
event a tube became blocked or pinched. If one were very paranoid,
one could even wire the controller enable through the switch to turn
off the controller if the over-pressure switch ever actuates. I
wouldn't bother but others might.
>
>Shurflo makes a lot of pumps, probably one has lower flow rate and no
>autoshutoff.
Yes indeed they do but since Northern discounts Shurflow pumps deeper
than any other retailer I've found and since this is the lowest price
pump they routinely stock, this is the one I recommend. The pressure
switch comes along free for the ride.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
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--- Begin Message ---
On Sun, 16 Oct 2005 13:26:45 +0100, Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?in_merch=1&storeId=6970&productId=357081&R=357081
>> http://tinyurl.com/dmq7q
>>
>> This pump is rated at 1 gpm (60 gph) at 40 psi. More than twice that
>> at the low pressure involved in this system. The pump will draw about
>> 2 amps at 12 volts at low pressure.
>
>Silent? Hmm. I have a very similar diaghram pump right here,
>actually a Jabsco/Flojet LF series. It's what I would call "noisy"
>and also produces quite a lot of vibration. It also seems to consume
>a lot of power and the motor runs hotter than I'd like even with
>little or no pressure to overcome. The Shurflo might be radically
>better but I'd be surprised if it was.
I guess you'll be surprised if you ever actually hear one run. What
is it with you guys criticizing a recommendation without any
experience or knowledge of what you speak? Yes, panty-wetters, you
can consider this a little abrasive.
If you think the Jabsco and Shurflo are even in the same universe,
noise-wise, then you're badly mistaken. That is a major reason Jabsco
is just about out of the RV business. They don't limit their
noise-making to just fresh water pumps. Their macerators (turd
grinders) sound like ball bearings in a disposall!
In terms of life, well, consider this. I just replaced the Flojet
pump in my classic motorhome with the new Smart Pump. The original
pump was installed in 1982 and was still working just fine when I
replaced it. I simply wanted the constant pressure provided by the
Smart Pump. The old pump is still running just fine in my concession
stand.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jimmy,
I also only have part 2. I think part 1 may have simply been the
manual for the Ford Escort or Mercury Lynx, so your shop manuals
should suffice.
I pulled the heater too. Never got it to work properly, and I was too
unmotivated to work on a combustion type heater. The one time I
pulled the EV into a gas station to get one gallon to test the system
with, I felt like a fraud.
I have a temporary 12V dash heater in there right now, but willl be
installing a proper heating element and relay this winter. Wiring is
simple. There's a yellow wire that was hooked up to your German
heater. This wire goes hot (12V) when the Heat lever in the dash is
raised. It can be hooked up to the relay coil. Then just run some 12
gauge to B+ and B-, and the wiring is complete. There are some
recommendations due to the high currents. The yellow wire should be
wired with a spike protection diode to ground. And relay snubber
circuits should be used to reduce arcing.
Here's one circuit, although it doesn't include the snubbers:
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/products/ht2510/ht2510productinfo.PDF
I guess the toughest part will be fabricating a flange to hold the
element. I'm planning to use tin sheet.
Richard
> From: Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Jet Electrica
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
>
> Richard,
> This is good info. I recently purchased an 81 Jet E.
> and am trying to slightly customize and upgrade. The
> switch picture I spammed to everyone is replacing the
> stock toggle switch. I got only part 2 of the manual
> with the car, can you tell me what was in part 1? I
> have a set of shop manuals for the 81 lynx, do I still
> need part 1?
> Also, are you using the gasoline heater? I removed it
> because I didn't feel comfortable with gas fumes
> lingering around me when I worked on the pack and I
> would HATE to have to go to the a gas station with an
> EV it gives me goose bumps just thinking about it. (I
> drive EVs because I want to stay away from places like
> that.) Anyway, If you did remove it, what do you use
> to heat? I am in arizona so I don't need a lot of
> BTUs.
> Jimmy
>
> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > Calvin,
> >
> > Yes, the posts can melt if they're not well crimped
> > or soldered, and tight.
> >
> > As for the meters, there should be two that came
> > stock with the
> > Electrica, mounted on the top of the dash. A motor
> > ammeter, which
> > connects to the side posts on the shunt in the front
> > DCS
> > (disconnect-contactor-speed control) box. The other
> > is a State of
> > Charge meter, which is essentially a voltmeter. Do
> > not connect full
> > pack voltage to this meter directly, as it will blow
> > the meter (I
> > speak from experience). There is a voltage reducing
> > circuit that has
> > to be in place between the pack and the meter. I
> > have a schematic
> > which I can scan and email to you, but it'll have to
> > be on Monday.
> > Let me know if you need it.
> >
> > Richard Kelly
> >
> >
> > > From: Calvin King <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Subject: Introduction
> > > Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 21:56:19 -0400
> > > To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> > <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Please do not sent attachments to the EV list. There are still many members
(especially in other countries) who use dialup connections, in some cases
paying by the minute or by the kilobyte.
Post large binary or other files on the web and provide a link in an email
message.
Thanks.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
I really don't want to contine this thread on the list. It's off topic and
really not too productive.
I do want your comments and criticism though, so if you think I'm not being
fair or even-handed in attempting to keep things on track and reasonably
peaceful here, please email me PRIVATELY about the matter.
This will most likely be my last public post in this thread, and if you
don't mind I'd like to point out a few things.
1. Not everything is happening in plain sight. Most of the time when I ask
a list member to change the tone of his or her posts, the list doesn't know
it because I usually conduct this business by private email. I do sometimes
go public. Mostly I do this when I suspect that my private email hasn't
reached, or won't reach, the person involved. Usually this means that in
the recent past I've gotten no response from private email.
But let me make this clear: It is NEVER my intent to humiliate or make an
example of anyone. I try to be as fair, even-handed, and impartial as
possible. That impartiality may not always be apparent because of the
balance of private and public transactions. If I have failed at any of
these things, or even at the public perception of them, I sincerely
apologize.
2. When a post is too rough, I usually begin with the assumption that the
poster was in a hurry or a bit overextended emotionally, and didn't take
time to consider the consequences of his or her post. (I'm a big believer
in cooling off periods - saving the email and returning an hour later to
edit it further. Most people usually moderate their writing when they do
this.) I think it's quite rare for someone deliberately to cause dissension
on the list, though it does happen: such people are called trolls.
In the vast majority of cases, the poster and I come to an agreement.
Sometimes it takes a few emails back and forth, and I've had a few people
grouse a bit about what they consider too much constraint (or restraint).
However, most of them eventually have agreed to go a bit easier, for which
I'm grateful.
In the last few years I have had only three people outright refuse to
moderate their posts.
One of those people is no longer a list member.
Another has seldom acknowledged my requests; nevertheless he has moderated
some, though not all, of his posts.
The third is still contributing regularly. In spite of his initial negative
response to my requests, he's settled down quite a bit. I consider him a
valuable resource for everyone here.
3. I'm here doing this because I decided years ago after watching the AE
list degenerate into a partisan shouting match and flame war (sorry to say I
haven't been back there since) that I was going to do everything I could to
prevent that on the EV list. I'm sure there are others who could do this
better, but I was determined to try.
4. I don't know how many people realize what I'm doing here as assistant
list administrator. I hesitate a bit to write this because I don't want
anybody to think that I'm trolling for sympathy or anything of the sort.
(Hey, I'm the one who volunteered to do this!). But just for the heck of
it, here are some of the other issues I deal with either periodically or
regularly. (BTW, some of the following are also addressed by Mike Chancey,
the other EV list point of contact who is still a regular participant.)
= I try to keep an eye on threads and nudge them back on topic if I think
they are going too far afield.
= I reply to the poor souls who didn't either read or save the FAQ they got
when they subscribed, and now don't know how to unsubscribe or change to
digest.
= I contact the people who bring partisan politics, religion, or other
controversial subjects into the discussion. I ask them to please leave this
stuff outside the door when they come in. Most react well to this.
= I respond to the folks who are sure they got a virus or worm from the
list, those who think that nobody should be allowed to sell anything at all
here, those who think that one vendor or another is over-promoting his
business, those who think that the list shouldn't be (or should be)
promoting drag racing, those who think that the list should be (or shouldn't
be) doing more to promote production EVs, and those who express a myriad of
other concerns. Some of these complaints and concerns are posted on the
list. Any that come to me privately I always respond to. All of these
matters are valid to one extent or another, at least to the person writing,
and deserve attention.
= I reply to the folks who email me wanting to know, "Is the list down? I
haven't gotten a post in 3 hours," and to those who want to subscribe but
for some reason are having trouble.
= I chase down the support crew at SJSU when there's a technical glitch and
try to get it fixed.
I'm not going to claim I'm the best person for this. Goodness knows,
sometimes I just have a knack for saying (writing) the wrong thing. I also
go through periods when I barely have time to pay attention to the list, and
miss some problems that should be addressed. But I carry on, for something
over 5 years now I think, because I think the EV list is a valuable resource
and I'm grateful for what I've learned from it, and I want to do what I can
to nurture it.
I'll keep doing this as long as I can. I appreciate all the good,
thoughful, caring people here who are so unstinting in their willingness to
help others get more EVs on the road. And I hope you'll forgive me when I'm
not as effective at keeping things on track as you might like me to be.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
I hate to be a party pooper, gang, but this thread has split into (at least)
two subthreads. One is still more or less on gensets for true hybrids, but
the other one seems to have mostly wandered into ICE vehicles, trucks, and
trains. I like it too, but please, for the newbie building an EV I fear it's
mostly noise. Let's try to get that subthread back on track (bad pun,
sorry) or else take it to private email.
Thanks!
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
TS cells - especially dodgy ones - try to swell on charge.
I REALLY noticed this on a single cell I charged with lab power supply.
I have some dead cells that I have managed to bring back to some
semblance of life.
These tried to swell a LOT at the start of the revival process, but much
less once they were accepting and holding charge again.
These are my undead cells.
Pick your favourite zombie movie (not involving Mr Wayland) - these
cells are about as active as your typical zombie compared to the healthy
cells.
(I'm yet to get accurate numbers - I'm slowly building a computer logged
battery tester in my infinite spare time :-)
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dave Cover
Sent: Monday, 17 October 2005 11:59 AM
To: EVList
Subject: RE: 1/8-Inch End Plates
Mark Fowler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Subject: RE: 1/8-Inch End Plates
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 16:30:27 +1000
From: "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
I've used 3mm Al plate (about 1/8") with M6 threaded bar for end plates
and side straps.
(to squeeze TS batts into extra nooks and crannies :-)
Here's some early construction pics.
http://www.thefowlers.homeip.net/EClubman-all/target115.html
http://www.thefowlers.homeip.net/EClubman-all/target118.html
Mark, that is a tight squeeze. Do you ever see the batteries swell on
charge? What size cable did you use for the interconnects? How much
current does it carry? Does the cable get warm?
Thanks,
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Robb...
PFC30 don't devaule much...
Most owners value them too much for just exactly what the do the best.
Make a lot of watts for thier size.
Keeping these on the shelf has not been a easy task.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 1:25 AM
Subject: PFC-30 Wanted
> Anyone upgrading to a PFC-50 and want to sell their PFC-30? I'm building
up the oomph to buy new but thought I might as well check for used first :)
>
> Thanks,
> Robb
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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Neon John wrote:
Yes, panty-wetters, you can consider this a little abrasive.
Again John cannot make a disagreement point without making a disparaging
comment along with it. Now he openly mocks the list moderators...
If John has no regard for list moderators, he obviously is not going to
curb any disparaging comments against other list members.
This list has become a decidedly more unfriendly place since John
arrived.
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM/YM - ktrough
FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
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Yep, couldn't pry mine from my cold dead fingers. 5.6Kw (I've seen 6.5kw
briefly) charging is awsome! An hour opportunity charge can put miles and miles
worth of driving back in to my pack. I was hesitant at first to spend that
much, but now it's worth every penny.
Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Robb...
PFC30 don't devaule much...
Most owners value them too much for just exactly what the do the best.
Make a lot of watts for thier size.
Keeping these on the shelf has not been a easy task.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 1:25 AM
Subject: PFC-30 Wanted
> Anyone upgrading to a PFC-50 and want to sell their PFC-30? I'm building
up the oomph to buy new but thought I might as well check for used first :)
>
> Thanks,
> Robb
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
Later,
Ricky
02 Red Insight #559
92 Saturn SC2 EV conversion in progress
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
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On 10/17/05, Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >Silent? Hmm. I have a very similar diaghram pump right here,
> >actually a Jabsco/Flojet LF series. It's what I would call "noisy"
> >and also produces quite a lot of vibration. It also seems to consume
> >a lot of power and the motor runs hotter than I'd like even with
> >little or no pressure to overcome. The Shurflo might be radically
> >better but I'd be surprised if it was.
>
> I guess you'll be surprised if you ever actually hear one run.
Great, I look forward to it!
> What is it with you guys criticizing a recommendation without any
> experience or knowledge of what you speak?
My comment about noise is based on all and every diaghram pump I've
used or seen in operation. That includes larger 24V Shurflo pumps -
sorry, I can't remember the model but it's just as loud as any other.
The only "gap" in my experience is your super-cheap, miraculously
silent 12V pump. These comparisons are subjective you know, so don't
take it personally if someone else has a different experience.
Have you seen one of these Bosch automotive pumps running? You seem
to be criticising that choice on some basis, what is it?
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I have a Shurflow demand pump in my camper van. Demand feature was a
big improvement over the manual on-off switch.
But, in my experience, it does make a LOT of noise. Low frequency
fluttering sound.
When you turn the sink on halfway, the pump pressure switch turns the
pump on and off at least twice a second. The wiring going back there
wasn't really low resistance and that powerful pump draws a lot of
current. So the thing is, when you turn on the pump, the lighting
throughout the van dims and comes back on rapidly giving it the
appearance of a disco.
Knowing how much volume it's designed to pump, how much power it draws,
and how noisy it is, I don't think it's at all suitable. There are much
smaller pumps to do this. There are many people doing CPU water
cooling. Any of their hardware is going to be useful.
Danny
Evan Tuer wrote:
What is it with you guys criticizing a recommendation without any
experience or knowledge of what you speak?
My comment about noise is based on all and every diaghram pump I've
used or seen in operation. That includes larger 24V Shurflo pumps -
sorry, I can't remember the model but it's just as loud as any other.
The only "gap" in my experience is your super-cheap, miraculously
silent 12V pump. These comparisons are subjective you know, so don't
take it personally if someone else has a different experience.
Have you seen one of these Bosch automotive pumps running? You seem
to be criticising that choice on some basis, what is it?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 10/16/05, Christopher Robison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> David Dymaxion said:
> > Why aren't more people doing a heat pipe like Bill Dube on his
> > Wabbit?
> >
> > Cheap, quiet, no amp draw, reliable, simple...
> >
>
> Requires pressure capacity of over 200psi from homemade plumbing (I have
> trouble with leaks in my 125psi air system at home), contains a flammable
> gas (butane in Bill's case)
I wonder if a convection cooling system would work? It would be
similar to the heat-pipe arrangement, with a radiator mounted above
the controller, but just use water.
Maybe the passageway in the controller isn't large enough to get
enough flow this way.
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--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 10/15/05 10:06:52 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Subj: RE: Current Eliminator News Ranked 3rd in Az Super pro division.
Date: 10/15/05 10:06:52 AM Pacific Daylight Time
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Don Cameron)
Sender: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-to: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
I am "not up to speed" on the drag racing scene. It sounds impressive, but
I am unsure what it all means.
Are you racing against ICE vehicles?
^^Yes only racing against ice vehicles that are not street cars but
trailered to the track.Also in my class altereds and dragsters that run down to
7.50
et in the qt.mi.^^
How many other vehicles are in your class?
^^ Nearly 50 vehicles started the class in 05^^Many others race in this class
for just the money to be won.^^
Is the ADRA a big event?
^^ADRA is arizonas largest drag racing group with the best bracket racers
attending from all over the state.^^
Are the 1st and 2nd ranked cars ICE vehicles or EVs?
^^ #1 an 2 are ice cars as well as all the others ranked under the Current
Eliminator^^
thanks
Don
Victoria, BC, Can >>
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Hi,
I was thinking of using a Fet switch, (cheaper & smaller than a contactor with
mag blowouts) for controlling the 20A max heater in my EV. I think for safety
it would operate from the main engage contactor running the DC-DC and the gate
switch controlled from the access (12V ignition on) key switch. IR has some
good TO-247 high current Fets that look good, cheaper & smaller than a dorky
contactor.
Have a nice day, Mark
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--- Begin Message ---
Sure! Just a couple of things to keep in mind. How will you control
the gate with the 12v source? The 12v source is grounded whereas the
pack voltage is not.
Look for a low "rds-on" device. It may not need to be a large package
or require a heatsink if the I2R losses are low enough. If it comes
down to it, multiple packages in parallel are cheaper and much easier to
design than a heatsink.
Be sure to include a flyback diode across the drain and source.
Danny
Mark Hanson wrote:
Hi,
I was thinking of using a Fet switch, (cheaper & smaller than a contactor with mag blowouts) for controlling the 20A max heater in my EV. I think for safety it would operate from the main engage contactor running the DC-DC and the gate switch controlled from the access (12V ignition on) key switch. IR has some good TO-247 high current Fets that look good, cheaper & smaller than a dorky contactor.
Have a nice day, Mark
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi, not sure if this got through, but I was curious if anyone with regen has
had this problem and how to disable regen on the accelerator peddle so I can
coast when releasing the accelerator peddle. Apparently they are trying to
simulate an ICE drag but on an EV it's inefficient.
Also is "Electric Vehicle Power Systems" from Syracuse NY the same as
Advance DC motors?
Thanks, Mark
> Howdy,
>
> I would like to disable the regen on the accelerator peddle that
automatically occurs when I release my foot off the peddle. It also makes
the motor hot and I don't think is as efficient as coasting. I want to
leave the brake peddle regen though. It's a Curtis Model 1509-0202,
72V,300A serial 8132 1306, part no. 2088 for Bombardier 99' nev. The motor
is a "Electric Vehicle Power Systems" I guess not ADC from Syracuse, NY 7"
diam, 12" long model CB7 4002 serial 147 made 9/4/97. Does anyone know how
to disable the accel-release accelerator peddle regen?
>
> I was thinking of adding a bias pot to the wiper of the accel peddle and
tweaking it till it stopped regen, but it seams like it's either motoring or
regen, either pushing or pulling, no in between.
>
> Thanks, Mark
>
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--- Begin Message ---
Neon John wrote:
Yes, panty-wetters, you can consider this a little abrasive.
Again John cannot make a disagreement point without making a
disparaging comment along with it. Now he openly mocks the list
moderators...
Sorry Ken but what I read from John's message was frustration.
That's the very reason I (and a few others I've spoken to face to
face) don't contribute much to this list.
Mike
--
The Electric Motorcycle Portal
http://www.electricmotorcycles.net/
Electric Motorcycle Listserv
http://www.electricmotorcycles.net/listserv.php
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--- Begin Message ---
http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/car/104408185.html Free for the towing & in
San Francisco CA.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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--- Begin Message ---
I know I have beat this horse to death already, but I need some more opinions
here.
I haven't committed totally to my choice of a battery pack. I have made sure
my battery box is capable of supporting and maintainence of either AGM's or
flooded, whichever I end up going with. Box is now finished except the Rhino
coat on the inside and I am good to go on that.
I have heard a lot of pros and cons, the AGM's of course being a lot better on
weight, delivered current, required maintenance, etc, downside pickiness on
charging, extra cost intitially and pricey chargers, regulators, etc.
I have been looking at some Exide Stowaway batteries which would fit my system,
are priced well and readily available. Some are rated at 80ah. Their big
brothers are 105 and 200ah respectively. Of course the real big ones are huge
as well. Of course I know these AH ratings have a lot of variables in how they
are described.
So my question is....compared to AGM's which rate about 50ah, in the same
vehicle, won't any of the floodeds deliver better range at a sacrifice of
performance?
A lot of arguments are made both ways here about the low cost per mile on
floodies, the performance of AGM's, etc. In my case I already have some losses
due to my automatic transmission and won't want to end up with a car that only
goes 10 miles on a charge. This won't do at all with the cost of the
conversion. The cost per mile using AGM's seems a lot higher if part of your
objective is beating the cost of gasoline. I need 20-25 miles minimum.
The other factor is I can go with a Zivan charger, which was my initial choice
and no big hassles other than the periodic maintenance required.
Mark Ward
95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"
www.saabrina.blogspot.com
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--- Begin Message ---
The impression that I get is "hall effect better than potentiometer,"
which would seem to jive with my experiences with potentiometers;
specifically, dirty potentiometers. Can anyone clarify:
1) Are HE throttles always "better?"
2) Will any HE throttle work with a Zilla controller? Otmar? What about
these: http://www.electricscooterparts.com/throttles.html
3) Frankly, the throttles mentioned in #2 seem awfully cheap -- anyone
have experience with their reliability, or can anyone recommend a HE
twist throttle?
Thanks
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Mark Hanson wrote:
> I was thinking of using a Fet switch, (cheaper & smaller than a
> contactor with mag blowouts) for controlling the 20A max heater
> in my EV.
Besides the obvious specs on voltage and current ratings, size, and
cost, you need something that is isolated, reliable (won't fail "on"),
and won't generate too much heat.
Relays are the obvious solution. For only 20 amps, you don't need a huge
contactor. Depending on your pack voltage, a $5 or $10 relay is enough.
Include an RC "snubber" across the contacts and a diode across the coil,
and you're done.
MOSFETs are a good high-tech solution if you can afford a DC solid-state
relay (it's all built for you), or if you have the time and experience
to design one yourself. But I would caution you that it's trickier than
it looks. Naive design and poor construction will produce something that
costs more and is less reliable than the relay. The key difficulties
are:
- providing isolation
- ensuring that it won't fail "on"
- isolating the heatsink so there aren't any "live" exposed parts
- sealing it up so water, dirt, bugs, etc. can't get in
- overvoltage protection (so it won't fail from voltage transients)
- overcurrent protection (so it won't fail from excessive current)
- overtemperature protection (so if won't fail if it gets too hot)
Look up some circuits for solid-state DC relays to get an idea of what
is required. Better yet, look at some actual relays to see how they are
built. Learn from them, and copy them.
--
If you would not be forgotten
When your body's dead and rotten
Then write of great deeds worth the reading
Or do the great deeds worth repeating
-- Ben Franklin, Poor Richard's Almanac
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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