EV Digest 4840
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: BBC Radio 4
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: clutchless vw, ect
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Home at last!! Re: Sunrise Report. Or..... " Where's Jerry?"
by keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: clutchless vw
by "Pestka, Dennis J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: window defrost, radiant heat efficiency
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Honda Fuel Cell Concept with Home H2 Refueling
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re:S-10 now stripped
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
8) Re:Current Eliminator News
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
9) Re: Current Eliminator News
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re:S-10 now stripped
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Lift-off at 6:00 Tonight at PIR!
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re:Current Eliminator News
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Lift-off at 6:00 Tonight at PIR!
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: 2 cars, 4 options.
by "Adams, Lynn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Emeter Test
by "Adams, Lynn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Snap!
Hey, I just noticed the tagline of the programme - "DC RIDER".. like
Easy Rider? ha ha, not heard that one before :-)
Regards
Evan
On 10/20/05, Paul Compton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Excellent programme on EVs being brodcast now.
>
> BBC Radio 4; In Business
>
> Listen again, or
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/news/inbusiness/index.shtml
>
> Paul Compton
> www.sciroccoev.co.uk
> www.morini-mania.co.uk
> www.compton.vispa.com/the_named
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi John and All,
john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
A friend wants me to build her a VW bug conversion. Problem is she has one leg
in a brace and can't use the clutch. I know she could go clutchless and put
into gear before taking off but I was wondering if a set up like my Citicar
would work on a VW? Using contactors for forward and reverse? Any thoughts
would be welcomed.
While you are stopped before going into reverse I hope, it shouldn't
be hard to put it in reverse without a clutch. Bugs make a great under 50 mph
EV and can run faster but with shorter range as the aero is rather high. But
they are lightweight which really help around town EVing.
But yes, using contactors can work well for reverse and can be used
as another emergency power cutoff if something were to happen if set up that
way.
I'd also use a set up where the motor turns 5,000-5,500 rpm's so she
can drive at most any speed in the same gear to avoid shifting. You can do this
by using say a 36vdc-3,000 rpm motor on 72vdc battery pack or other combo of
voltage, motor. For low cost, reliability, it's hard to beat 72vdc in a bug as
you can use a modified 36vdc golf cart ferro charger and the contactors are
lower cost, easy to find.
Sniff around fork lift shops, junk yards for dead, surplus ones that
are not worth a new batt for EV parts like motors, contactors, chargers for
close to or even free.
I use a Citi car motor, charger in my 60 mph E woody and shortly
will change it over to ni-cads.
Good luck on your new EV club. Interest in EV rise with the price of
gas !!
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus .
John in Tucson.
---------------------------------
Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Glad to see you made the trip without any problems.
good luck on keeping out of the storms.
keep us posted on the freedom/sunrise as i am sure you
will
kEVs
--- Bob Rice <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Jerry an' All;
>
> I can taker a breath, again. Sorta holding it
> after ya left<g> I don't
> know if ya noticed the 238000 on the speedo
> odometer. Tat was there when I
> GOT the car, saving it's life from the
> junkyard!Several years later ,two of
> them my kid used it for his daily driver at UCONN, a
> 55 mile flight from
> here. He did love it a little, treating it to new
> tires and glow plugs. I
> replaced the battery last year, so it would start,
> cheerfully, again.No
> OTHER work was or ever was done on the engine. Rear
> shocks petrifyed a few
> years ago. I replaced them with newer, not NEW<g>!
> Have junked Rabbits over
> the years and had some new old stock parts. Kid felt
> comfortable with the
> car, often going from CT to Richmond VA to see old
> HS buddies.
>
> I'm sure glad to see that it has a loving home
> and will help the "Cause"
> What better use for a faithful old car??Keeping with
> the Renault thread of
> late how many gas Renaults woulda done that FLA
> flight, after clocking
> probably close to 300k miles, the odo meter was
> busted when I got the
> car!?Hell, the owners manual is still in the glove
> tment, EVen!Not to
> mention towing a trailer. The Rabbit was a worthy
> successer to the old
> Beatle, and HEAT even! So I say that a decent Rabbit
> will be a good ., or
> better conversion than any Renault.Maybe not as lite
> as a 1200 Datsun, but
> more common , nowadaze.
>
> Watching with more concern the Wilma hurricane.
> It COULD swoop northeast
> in it's flight , right yur way! Damn! Must be global
> warming?What will they
> do when they use up the alfabet? Start anew with
> Alice or Andrew?THIS year?
> Geeeesh! Ya hafta build cement bunkers in FLA to
> live in.
>
> Seeya
>
> Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jerry dycus" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>;
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 8:58 PM
> Subject: Home at last!! Re: Sunrise Report. Or.....
> " Where's Jerry?"
>
>
> > Hi Bob and All,
> > Nice report Bob!!
> > I made it home this
> afternoon with the Rabbit and
> the Sunrise without any problems, unlike my trip up
> there. Driving a MC in
> the rain 1100 miles pulling a fair size trailer was
> no fun, especially when
> it broke down in tha armpit of the US, Newark!! But
> only a few miles from
> Penn Station so got to ride the Accela to Bob's
> place, very cool, soft and
> much better than riding a MC pulling a trailer in
> the cold rain !! Bob was a
> fantastic host and I learned a lot there. He donated
> the Rabbit to the cause
> which will and already has come in handy, Thanks Bob
> !! Got 33mpg pulling
> the trailer. Will switch it over to use veg oil and
> biodiesel shortly. Got
> to meet Bill Glickman which was cool and
> interesting.
> > Seeing the finished Sunrise
> made me very happy as it
> looks so much better in person than the pics show
> it!! While it will take a
> lot of work to get going, it will be worth it. First
> I'll have to simplify
> the mold work as you can tell and engineer designed
> it, not someone who had
> to build it !! I'll cut the man/hrs in 1/2 at least
> to build it.
> > I was surprised just how wide
> and roomy it was as
> rather exotic looks, should be able to upscale it
> nicely for a better price.
> I had thought it was small but that is not the case
> at all. Diffinently EV-1
> owners material that will fit in with expensive cars
> so probably start off
> with Ni-cad batts and go to Li-ions as they become
> viable. Hopefully a
> reasonable priced AC motor, controller will be
> available by then..
> > But first I have to get the
> Freedom EV going as it's
> going to take more money to do than I had thought.
> Luckily there is good
> profit in the Freedom EV so I can afford to do the
> Sunrise.
> > We stopped at Azure and they
> have some AC motors for
> sale cheaply, I'll find out just what they are if
> anyone is interested but
> mostly the Force sizes and bigger. They had an
> Humvee and several other
> larger commercial trucks they were converting, quite
> interesting.
> > Now just need to keep an eye
> on Hurricane Wilma to
> see if I have to get out of Dodge !!
> > Thanks,
> > Jerry
> Dycus
> >
> >
> > Bob Rice <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Hi Sunrise Fans;
> >
> > A Update for the Jerry's trip to CT. Jerry
> "arrived" in the NYC area on
> > Friday, within view of the Enpire State Building
> in NYC the poor old
> Suzuki
> > bike sed "I'm All Done" He glided into a Cumins
> Engine service center, on
> > Howard Ave in Newark, NY, only about 110 miles to
> go. The Good Folks there
> > took pity on him, after all it WAS raining off and
> on, saw his FLA tags
> and
> > let him stash the rig inside the fenced off area
> for the weakend.It had
> been
> > RAINING on the Least Coast for .oh, about `10 daze
> or MORE!
> >
> > Jerry hopped on a train, guy there was nice enough
> to run him over to the
> > train station, he called me from Penn Station,
> deep in Amtrak Land. "
> Well.,
> > I sez , go talk to the train folks there, find one
> to New Haven, I'll come
> > down and collect ya" Two hours later Jerry
> arrives, and we FINALLY meet in
> > real time. With the Newark place closed for the
> weakend, retreaval of the
> > bike and trailer was out til monday. So Jerry
> could chill out here rest up
> > for the next weels adventure! Well, no rest for
> the weary! called up the
> > folks at Solectria/Asure and it was OK to come up
> and check out the
> chassis
> > moulds and pick up my Force motor that went with
> the car I had trailered
> > home with the Sunrise body a few weaks ago.With
> many windows busted out
> the
> > Force has been living in my garage safe and dry.
> or til I find a Metro
> doner
> > car for a drivers door rear deck and drivers side
> window, cute little car!
> > Needs a heap of lovin' though!
> >
> > Gave James Worden a shout on the fone, OK to come
> over and meet a
> > Sunrise on the hoof. Wanted to get Jerry a "After"
> look on what it CAN be,
> > as James has a working , completed Sunrise. The
> usual; Sunrise, Jerry
> Liked,
> > woulda been the understatement of the week
> EVerybody that sees a finished
> > one, likes it!! Jerry and James hit it off jusy
> great. In that James has
> > passed the Grail to us, I'm deeply humbled. Ball's
> in OUR court, now.
> >
> > The Damn rain dodn't dampin our spirit,as we
> shoved off for CT, Sun came
> > out, as we prius'ed home. an oman? Sunday was rest
> up, prep the 81
> Diseasel
> > Rabbit for it's Next Life, and secred duty to get
> Jerry and the trailered
>
=== message truncated ===
__________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page!
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bob Batson at EVAmerica has a clutchless design.
http://www.ev-america.com/
Dennis
Elsberry, MO
-----Original Message-----
From: john [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 7:49 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: clutchless vw
A friend wants me to build her a VW bug conversion. Problem is she has one
leg in a brace and can't use the clutch. I know she could go clutchless and
put into gear before taking off but I was wondering if a set up like my
Citicar would work on a VW? Using contactors for forward and reverse? Any
thoughts would be welcomed.
John in Tucson.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Roland etc.
Wow that's quite an engineering feat, sounds like a tank, 30ea T-145
batteries 2100lbs of battery weight, I wonder how it handles/stops though.
I don't think I could afford to charge something similar at my 12.66c per
kWh however.
Anyway, the most efficient way to warm electrically is with radiant heat
such as the 15" Fostoria replacement 750W quartz enclosed nichrome coil
tubes I found at Northern Tool yesterday for $10 each. I'm mounting one
between the dash/windshield with a parabolic reflector made out of U shaped
bent aluminum chrome painted (2" x 15" area). At 72V in my buggy (9ea 8V
batts) it will be about 300W and I'll also mount one down below for radiant
floor heat and put on a Fet switch to the main accessory contactor.
I did this before in my cheese wedge a few (well about 25 years) ago when
there was no heater core/blower assembly already in the vehicle. These
Fostoria type heaters are the kind used at ski resort ticket windows where
you get your lift tickets and produce an effective warmth 3X more than
convection (blowing) heaters. (Heating electrically though is 4X less
efficient than other means per dollar spent but hey, it's convenient in an
EV).
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: window defrost
> Hello Mike,
>
> My EV is in the EV Album
>
> To get to it just type using google:
>
> Roland Wiench 1977 El Camino Electro I
>
> You will see the layout of the accessory drive system, the Zilla
controller that is under the gray box on the firewall.
>
> Everything is so tight, that it's hard to see the cooling system for the
Zilla. The motor which was a GE 11 inch is being replace with a Warp of
equal size is a double shaft, where the pilot shaft couples to a accessory
drive using a Dodge Spline Flex coupler.
>
> The accessory drive is self supporting which is mounted on 4 donut engine
mounts. A drive shaft is extended from the motor pilot shaft threw three
face bearings and extends out the from of the accessory support. A belt
drive is mounted on this drive shaft which than powers a standard power
steering, the alternator/inverter, air condition pump and a GMC diesel
vacuum pump that does not go pop pop pop.
>
> Under the top mounting plate that normally would hold a engine radiator,
is the heater hot water fill tank. Below that on the platform that the
radiator would set on, is the water heater and pumps. The heater lines stay
low going to the fire wall and goes up behind the gray motor controller
enclosure.
>
> You will also see two Dayton fans with a 6 inch air filter, one mounted on
the motor controller enclosure and one on the brush cover on the GE motor.
>
> On the Warp motor, which has a internal fan, I mounted this on the screen
brush cover using a curved steel plate that two steel tabs that extends down
the face of the motor which is bolted to two 5/16 bolts.
>
> Removing the motor, only requires it to be remove out the bottom. Do not
have to remove any of the items you see in the motor bay.
>
> The batteries are Trojan T-145's 6 volt 260 AH 800 amp. The picture
shows shows a low profile stud mounts. I since had that modified with
standard taper battery post. The stud mounting could not handle the torque
values that was specific. Too much shrink back after each run. My next
batteries are going to be a AGM type in the same AH range that will have
brass thread bolt connections.
>
> The batteries enclosures are 1/4 inch thick fiberglass boxes that is epoxy
coated with the same type of coating that is used on showers and sinks. The
enclosure in front of the battery box is also made out of the same
fiberglass sheets held the old battery charger which was rated at 100 amp,
that took up the whole area which is 15 inches wide by 12 inches high by 54
inch long.
>
> This was replace with a PFC-50B which is all in the left side where you
see the DC and AC meters. These meters were move to the right compartment,
that now have two 400 amp safety contactors that isolated the batteries from
the controller while the battery is being charge. A AC contactor is on the
AC power input to the charger. The input plug which is under the hinge
license plate activates the AC contactor and turns off 12 volt ignition
control to the controller. This is so that you cannot drive off without
unplugging the power plug.
>
> The Batteries, Charger and related circuits are completely isolated from
the frame of the vehicle by being in a fiberglass enclosures. The frame of
the vehicle is not AC grounded, only the charger housing is.
>
> When you charge a battery pack while the frame is ground, you can read the
full charging voltage from any one battery to a ground. So if you are using
a ground vehicle frame, DO NOT LEAN AGAINST THE VEHICLE AND TOUCH ANY OF THE
BATTERY CONNECTIONS WHILE ITS CHARGING.
>
> There is also a 120 VAC Dayton 150 CFM fan in the charger compartment that
brings in outside cooling air. This also pressurized this compartment. The
battery compartment has a 2 inch diameter x 1/4 inch thick flexible PVC pipe
that brings in filter air from the outside of the vehicle. Its also have
another 2 inch flex PVC pipe that is connected to a totally enclose plastic
100 CFM fan that exhaust the battery box. This brings in replacement oxygen
that mixes with the hydrogen of the battery so you do not have so much flow
loss. I only have to add about 3 gallons of water every six months. This
air exchange technique was subjest to me by the HydroCap Company.
>
> Also the batteries are setting on a bed of 1 inch thick baking soda which
keeps the batteries clean, no weeping, no voltage tracking and the battery
boxes surfaces clean. If you look at the white surfaces of this enclosure,
these surfaces never was clean since the batteries were put in three years
ago.
>
> When I bought these batteries right from the Trojan Company, I specified a
balance set of 30 each of not more than 0.01 difference between all
batteries. They set me a pallet load of 50 not more than 2-weeks of the
manufacturer date, so I can do a final adjustment of the best 30 batteries.
>
> Today, there are 26 batteries that are still in with 0.01 V. of each other
and the other four are 0.02 V. of each other. I still don't have to install
a battery regulators to balance them. According to Trojan these type of
batteries can get out of balance as much as 0.3 Volts before you should
balance them.
>
> You will note the all the batteries are in the center of the EV. The
vehicle has Mark and Williams 2.5 inch axles with 3 inch inner and outer
roller bearings on the axils. The suspension is by Air Ride which can
adjust the height from 8 inches to 2 inches off the ground. The car is
shown level at 4 inches.
>
> The dash plate instruments has indications for Battery Ampere and Voltage,
Motor Ampere and Voltage, A Emeter that displays any electrical function you
want, Motor Temperature, Heat Sink Temperature, Controller Air Temperature,
Zilla coolant water temperature, Under hood temperature, Vacuum at the
vacuum pump and vacuum after the reservoir. Air suspension pressure, Time
Clocks, one for time of day, one for motor on time, one for controller on
time and one for away time. Away time means the amount of time the EV is
away from my home and back again.
>
> Then there is a array of control switches, that are back up circuits, if
one fails while you are driving. There is fuse indicators that show if
there is a fuse blown and where a fault is in a circuit.
>
> There is also emergency shut down switches with a backup emergency shut
down switch. A alarm system is use where if the operator does not perform
the startup and programming right, it will shut down the system that will
run a siren, ring bells, flash lights and play load music.
>
> The dash plates fold down as a group exposing a large industrial set screw
terminal blocks that are five feet long. There are identical terminal
blocks which are shorter in water proof cast aluminum boxes you see in the
motor bay. Also another terminal block in the charger compartment.
>
> There is a large wireway that comes from the battery charger compartment
to the motor bay which is below the custom console that also have removable
access plates. All control wires are shielded and than place in another
shielded jacket cable. The internal shielded are isolated or sometime
floating and the outer shields are only ground at one end. This is so you
do not transmitted a signal from one end to the other or induce a power
circuit into this control wires.
>
> If you weigh the EV at each wheel, than that wheel specifications should
be rated for that weight. My wheels are rated for 3500 lbs thrust as well
the axle points are rated for 4000 lbs thrust. The tires are rated for 2600
lbs at 65 PSI.
> Most of the standard wheel are rated for only 1000 to 1500 lbs. I have
seen a lot of these brake when hitting a pot hole with the new thin wall
tires.
>
> To hold the heat in the car longer, while its park outside. I insulated
the battery box with two layers of blue foam with a 4 inch air space to the
side beds of the pickup box. All this foam is then cover with marine nylon
carpet.
>
> The interior is also insulated with 2 inches of soft upholstery blue foam
under the carports and up the firewall and back section. The doors interior
are spray with a white rubber insulated compound and a 1 inch soft foam is
under the door panels.
>
> The overall gear ratios in 1st gear is about 19.5:1 and 2nd gear is 13.5:1
which is most of my town driving of 10 to 30 mph for several 1/2 to 2 miles
stops per day. I only charge this 260 AH battery about every 4 days or
until its gets down to 50%. According to UVE's Vehicle Calculator, I should
be able to go 94 miles at 20 mph which is most of my average city driving.
I think this would take the batteries down to 10% of which I will not do.
The maximum I drive it is down to 50% which one time I was able to squeeze
50 miles out of it going on a lot of downhill runs on the way home which one
downhill was over 3 miles without any battery power. Battery amperes was 0
amperes while driving all the accessories!!!
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: mike golub<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu> ;
[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 5:16 PM
> Subject: Re: window defrost
>
>
> Hi there again,
>
> I'm in the process of converting a 1986 Toyota 4wd
> pickup. I'm going to use 120v and a 9" warP motor.
>
> Where can I get more information about your vehicle.
> thanks
> Michael
> Fairbanks, AK
>
> --- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
>
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: mike golub<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> > To:
> >
ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>>
> > Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 11:28 AM
> > Subject: window defrost
> >
> >
> > I was wondering if anyone had come up with a
> > system
> > that would defrost the front window with 120 v ac
> > at
> > the mains, before leaving home or work, and then
> > switching to battery mode.
> >
> > What is the most efficient way to do this?
> >
> > I'm not too worried about driving around at -20F
> > here
> > in Fairbanks, AK with no heat (I have warm
> > clothes) I
> > just worried about the windshield.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Hello Mike,
> >
> > This is exactly what I do, is preheat the
> > windshield and the interior of my EV about 15
> > minutes before I leave. I live in Great Falls,
> > Montana where it can get to 40 below.
> >
> > I just love driving in the winter with my EV. Its
> > nice and warm and can push through over 1 foot of
> > snow. Its not a baby buggy EV that cannot run in
> > the rain, when its hot, when is cold, in high wind,
> > or in deep snow. Can climb steep icy hills where a
> > lot of ICE vehicles are slipping and sliding. Can
> > jump my co-workers cars, with my heavy duty 12-15
> > volt 145 amps rotating alternator/inverter/battery
> > system.
> >
> > To do this, the heaters work off 120 VAC that has
> > a branch 20 amp circuit breakers coming of the main
> > VAC power that is plug into the EV. I have two 20
> > amp circuits that feed a 2000 watt hot water system
> > and two 640 and 860 watt under dash heaters.
> >
> > In 15 minutes or less, it will heat up the
> > interior to over 80 degrees and heat the water that
> > is used in the existing heater core. I used a dash
> > mounted transfer switch that can select the
> > commercial power or a on board 120 VAC 7000 Watt
> > inverter system which only works when the motor is
> > turning a combination alternator/inverter unit.
> >
> > Could also used a DC-AC inverter that runs off the
> > batteries. I prefer the rotating
> > alternator/inverter type, because on coast down and
> > while the motor is still turning, it still provides
> > power without any battery power. Its also gives me
> > a mechanical REGEN on long down hill icy hills.
> >
> > The unit I'm using if a Dynamote unit from
> > Electronic Power House, 1200 West Nickerson, Seattle
> > WA 98119. 1-800-426-2838. In Alaska, call (206)
> > 282-1000. (these phone numbers may be dated).
> >
> > These units are heavy duty units that are normally
> > used in large boats. You can get them in 500 to 3600
> > watts too that runs off a lower DC voltage.
> >
> > The 2000 watt @ 120 VAC heater is a heavy duty
> > engine heater normally used for Semi's. It is about
> > 3 inches in diameter and 24 inches long which is
> > made out of stainless steel. Its has a built in
> > thermostat. I used a standard brass 120 volt water
> > pump that I pick up from a Plumbing and Heating
> > Supply house. The pump is a 1 gallon per minute
> > type which is only 4 inches square. Its best not to
> > pump faster than that otherwise its not in the loop
> > long enough for heating and to dissipate the heat.
> > Floor radiate heat has about 1-gallon per minute
> > rating.
> >
> > There is no hot water radiator as you would have
> > for a engine, but I used just the tank part that you
> > can get from a radiator shop. They take a blank
> > tank, and add the pressure cap and outlets of any
> > size you want. I had them install brass threaded
> > pipe hub connectors in a copper tank.
> >
> > I used Aeroquip connectors on the standard hot
> > water hoses. There is no band clamps to install
> > these connectors, except used a industrial T-bolt
> > band clamp on the heater core stub outs.
> >
> > In using a hot water system, the tank and the
> > hoses, core, pumps, and heaters hold about 2 gallons
> > of water that is mix with 70% anti-freeze which is
> > good to 84 F. below.
> >
> > The 2000 watt heater, pump, tank, and hoses are
> > all double insulated with that good high dense Air
> > Condition pipe foam. After I preheat the water to
> > about 160 degrees, it will retain that heat in this
> > system even after setting in -40 below zero for two
> > hours. I was be able to defrost the windshield with
> > out any additional on board power. Only have to turn
> > on one under dash heater for 5 to 10 minutes on the
> > driver side, or it will make me too warm.
> >
> > If you already have a heater core that works off
> > the main battery pack, you still could add the under
> > dash heaters or sometimes call cab heaters to
> > prewarm the cab. I have rework the heater duct
> > system, so there is no outside air coming through
> > the heater core and just circulate the inside the
> > heated air thru the windshield ducts which starts to
> > defrost the windshield. When its above 0 degrees, I
> > find that only one under dash heater running for 15
> > minutes will defrost the everything.
> >
> > Living in the north, I cannot stand to be in
> > temperatures over 65 degrees to long. It is still
> > T-shirt weather at 30 degrees.
> >
> > Roland
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home
> > page!
> >
> >
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs<http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs<http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs<http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs>>
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
> http://mail.yahoo.com<http://mail.yahoo.com/>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've had some experience with the CNG compression. A Phil device for CNG is
3k and it pumps up to 4500 psi. Then there is the generator. Basic
electroliser. I don't like it. Better off using your CNG line and steam
reformation. Price I don't know. The bottom line is it will cost 4 times
as much in wasted energy. You would probably be better off if you invested
in lithium and BMS or just run CNG ICE. Lawrence Rhodes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: Honda Fuel Cell Concept with Home H2 Refueling
Mark Fowler wrote:
I wonder how much the typical EV commuter has reduced their energy bill
compared to the ICE days?
This is something I think about a lot anymore.
Considering a "fuel cell" is basically a battery, everyone on this
list could replace their battery pack with a hydrogen fuel cell and
tank.
Right now with batteries we have weight, a certain amount of range,
recharge times, and pack replacement after an amount of time or use.
The issues and reality of the hydrogen fuel cell:
Converting the car to electric is no problem. Motor and controller
basically. Used to, I thought getting the hydrogen was the problem.
Then I thought storing it was a problem. Now neither of those is
really the case. It's getting a decent size low cost fuel cell. The
problem is the platinum in them(hence the price).
A person could buy a hydrogen generator. Consider this the battery
charger except this costs in the several thousand dollar range:
http://froogle.google.com/froogle?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLD,GGLD:2005-07,GGLD:en&q=hydrogen%20generator&sa=N&tab=wf
Not only do you need the hydrogen generator, you need a storage
tank(in addition to the one in the car). You also need a pump.
What's the price on a 10,000 PSI pump anyways?
How about the price on those tanks(need two)?
http://www.lincolncomposites.com/main.html
I wonder what the upper limit on output is with a fuel cell?
http://www.ballard.com/be_a_customer/transportation/fuel_cell_modules/mark_902
This part makes me laugh "300 kW for transit bus applications". And
our little Zilla is "640 kW" no?
Now if we just had some low cost lithium batteries to lighten the load
and extend the range... How about those charge times though?
Does lithium recharge faster then lead? Will the price be competitive
with lead this year or next?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The 87 s10 is now gutted. Currie 12 bolt chev rear ordered.Steering will be
changed to rack non power steering and the brakes will also be manual disks.A
12 point roll cage will add weight,but will be a must for the planned ETs.The
"barrel size" motor will go in almost the original ice spot.This will be a
street/strip truck,insured and (Rich) will have a am radio. Dennis Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Its offical the CE is ranked 3rd in the super pro class in the arizona drag
racing ass.Money, new tires,trophys,++++ to be awarded Soon.
Ce will be racing in the Az Shootout this weekend on Saturday.Racing
starts at 8am at Speedworld in Witman. Dennis
Berube Next weekend: I will be at
the Pavillions car show.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Congrats, Dennis! Looks like we're both on the track this weekend.
See Ya...John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Its offical the CE is ranked 3rd in the super pro class in the arizona drag
racing ass.Money, new tires,trophys,++++ to be awarded Soon.
Ce will be racing in the Az Shootout this weekend on Saturday.Racing
starts at 8am at Speedworld in Witman. Dennis
Berube Next weekend: I will be at
the Pavillions car show.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
"(Rich) will have a am
> radio. "
He must like listening to static :-).
I may have missed it from a previous post, I would
like to know some of the details like;
Motor size (I think you said 13" with moveable brush
rigging?).
- control (I think you said a Zilla 2k)
- Batteries - quantity and max voltage
Thanks,
Rod
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> The 87 s10 is now gutted. Currie 12 bolt chev rear
> ordered.Steering will be
> changed to rack non power steering and the brakes
> will also be manual disks.A
> 12 point roll cage will add weight,but will be a
> must for the planned ETs.The
> "barrel size" motor will go in almost the original
> ice spot.This will be a
> street/strip truck,insured and (Rich) will have a am
> radio. Dennis Berube
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Just a quick early morning note to confirm that all systems are 'go' for
the Zombie's run at the 11's tonight at Portland International Raceway.
Gates open at 6:00, and White Zombie will be fully charged and ready to
fly at that time.
We took both 1200s out for a spin last night, with the idea to
reactivate the Hawker Aerobattery pack and heat things up a bit. Tim and
the new kid at work, Jason, were in the white car, I in the ever
faithful friend Blue Meanie. It was quite a scene, the two straight and
clean vintage Datsun 1200's cruising down the road together. On a clear
and car-less section of road, Tim got on the throttle a bit for Jason to
experience a little Zombie power. It was fun to be behind it and smell
the instantly heated rubber as twin black stripes were painted down for
perhaps 40 feet. Jason was nearly unable to talk when we had arrived at
our destination...what a fun first ride in an EV it was for him!
Afterwards, both cars were put away in the EV shop with the insulated
building's electric furnace turned on to keep it warm and toasty inside.
Today, we'll leave for the track with the batteries pre-warmed and ready
to go. The rpm sensor is now wired up, my original laptop is back and
running again, and we'll be taking data dumps on each and every run
tonight. In addition, list member and friend Chris Brune may be at the
track tonight with heat sensing equipment, so we can also plot and chart
battery pack temperatures before and after each run. The rear tires are
as close to being slicks as they can get, so with a warm track and lots
of cars to lay down rubber, if the traction is there, the Zilla will be
adjusted up to full power in the all important series configuration
launch mode. Who knows, towards the end of the night after we hopefully
bag an 11, I may just crank up the pack to 1100 amps!
If all goes well, this should be a historic night for EVs, and to repeat:
Again, anyone in the Portland metro area with a video cam, please join
us and help record what we hope will be the first time an electric
street conversion has ever blasted into the 11's.
See Ya.....John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
http://www.plasmaboyracing.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Congratulations!!!
That's one hell of an accomplishment even if it was an
ice vehicle.
Hopefully somebody will be taking lots of pictures and
will post a link?
Thanks,
Rod
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Its offical the CE is ranked 3rd in the super pro
> class in the arizona drag
> racing ass.Money, new tires,trophys,++++ to be
> awarded Soon.
> Ce will be racing in the Az Shootout this
> weekend on Saturday.Racing
> starts at 8am at Speedworld in Witman.
> Dennis
> Berube
> Next weekend: I will be at
> the Pavillions car show.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You GO boy!
best of luck
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hello to All,
Just a quick early morning note to confirm that all systems are 'go' for
the Zombie's run at the 11's tonight at Portland International Raceway.
Gates open at 6:00, and White Zombie will be fully charged and ready to
fly at that time.
We took both 1200s out for a spin last night, with the idea to
reactivate the Hawker Aerobattery pack and heat things up a bit. Tim and
the new kid at work, Jason, were in the white car, I in the ever
faithful friend Blue Meanie. It was quite a scene, the two straight and
clean vintage Datsun 1200's cruising down the road together. On a clear
and car-less section of road, Tim got on the throttle a bit for Jason to
experience a little Zombie power. It was fun to be behind it and smell
the instantly heated rubber as twin black stripes were painted down for
perhaps 40 feet. Jason was nearly unable to talk when we had arrived at
our destination...what a fun first ride in an EV it was for him!
Afterwards, both cars were put away in the EV shop with the insulated
building's electric furnace turned on to keep it warm and toasty inside.
Today, we'll leave for the track with the batteries pre-warmed and ready
to go. The rpm sensor is now wired up, my original laptop is back and
running again, and we'll be taking data dumps on each and every run
tonight. In addition, list member and friend Chris Brune may be at the
track tonight with heat sensing equipment, so we can also plot and chart
battery pack temperatures before and after each run. The rear tires are
as close to being slicks as they can get, so with a warm track and lots
of cars to lay down rubber, if the traction is there, the Zilla will be
adjusted up to full power in the all important series configuration
launch mode. Who knows, towards the end of the night after we hopefully
bag an 11, I may just crank up the pack to 1100 amps!
If all goes well, this should be a historic night for EVs, and to repeat:
> Again, anyone in the Portland metro area with a video cam, please join
> us and help record what we hope will be the first time an electric
> street conversion has ever blasted into the 11's.
>
> See Ya.....John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
>
> http://www.plasmaboyracing.com
>
---------------------------------
Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Seth,
As others have said, first decide why you want an EV and then what you
want it to do. I suggest option 3, looking for either a small
civic/like car or small truck for your first conversion or purchasing a
used EV. I admit I purchased my conversion and have not regretted it.
Since I've bought it, I've learned how to remove and install batteries,
chargers, brushes, controller and lots of other items in search of
improvement (sometimes better is the enemy of good, but I cannot
resist).
A understanding spouse is essential, but I'd take the opinion of rocket
scientist with a grain of salt. I've worked with them (or been one) for
20+ years (spent about 10 years at the RCA Astro plant in New Jersey, I
may know your friend!) and most know nothing about EV's. Now if your
friend was an economist, he would probably give you solid reasons on why
this doesn't make financial sense, but would also understand there are
emotional reasons that must be considered.
I've been very successful in asking for recharge locations at work.
Talk with the maintained people, I've found that they have the decision
making power in recharge locations.
Lynn Adams
See my 100% electric car at http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/379.html
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Seth Rothenberg
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 8:46 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: 2 cars, 4 options.
Greetings,
been googling, waiting for the mailman to bring the Brandt book, read
Electric Dreams...now I need some advice...
I have at this moment 2 donor cars in my driveway.
I'd like to hear if there is any sage advice out there.
1. My father's 1993 Mazda 626. The ICE needs main seals and timing belt,
$700 worth. It's mine as soon as the title turns up.
2, 1989 Lincoln Town Car. It was donated to my synagogue,
and I haven't decided what to do with it. It's worth $50 by weight.
The Mazda has tremendous advantages: 1) It has plates on it.
2) It passed inspection 2 months ago 3) It is small
Cons: Autmatic transmission; Front wheel drive, means small inside...
The Lincoln town car has advantages
1) Old, probably non-electronic transmission, etc.
2) Big, higher Max Gross Vehicle Weight,
more room for motor & batteries
3) Probably can find a manual transmission that would fit
4) RWD, probably easier.
5) Suede interior, leather top
Disadvantages: No plates, (I drove it last week, donor took
the plates back). 2 years since last inspected, large, heavy.
I actually have an acquaintence who is into cars
(building racing stock-cars) who is interested in this project. He seems
willing to swap the Mazda tranny for me, but he thinks it would be hard
to make stick fit into the Lincoln.
He suggested embedding solar panels in the roof...and he
could do it, being a body expert.
He actually can get old elevator motors (3-phase AC).
My friend the EE said that's the wrong kind of motor,
and it would need too much power. But I know he is
a pestimist.
google seems to say the controller for the 3-phase would
cost more than a brand-new motor and controller for DC.
BTW, I was noticing that the ratios in the Mazda range
from around 2:1 to around 1:1. What happens if I do without
a transmission? So, it's 1:1 always....harder work for
starts, but isn't that what a DC motor is good at?
Note, I haven't decideed WHAT I am building yet.
My wife might be willing to use a Mazda EV for short errands, where it
costs $1 in gas to turn the key in the Honda minivan, and it's probably
25 cents worth of electricity for the whole trip.
I would be willing to drive either car, but my trip to work is 33 miles,
so I would have to make a hybrid to be able to get home (or get a job
close to home in Northern NJ) or bribe someone to let me plug it in...
or, carry solar panels?
PS I am thinking DC, and Controller with Regen, because
I might as well get the most bang for my buck.
Option 3 is to get a different donor car.
Option 4 is to obey my wife, my mother, my friend the
rocket scientist (really), and the other friend the Electrical Engineer,
and stick to regular cars. Or Prius or whatever.
PPS on the hybrid idea,
has anyone tried to do a hybrid using the existing gas tank?
I was thinking a 3KW generator (5 gal tank) would do, maybe less, and
some kind of float switch could turn on the real fuel pump if needed.
(this is for the Mazda, not sure if the LTC has a fuel pump Smile
Thanks in advance for all advice.
Seth
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Please be sure to look at the wiring diagram in the manual. The manual
is available from the xantrex web site.
My emeter wires as follows
Pin 1: load side of shunt and negative 12V power. If you are powering
off the same battery you are using for load testing this can be a
problem.
Pin 2 load side of shunt for current sense
Pin 3 battery side of shunt
Pin 4 positive pack voltage
Pin 5 positive meter voltage
Best bet is to follow the wiring diagram in the manual.
Lynn
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Rush
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 11:37 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Emeter Test
Hi
I want to test my emeter but my pack is not set up, so I can test it by
just hooking up to a 12 v and follow the instructions as per the manual
for PV hookup.
1) Black from terminal 1 to load side, big bolt, of shunt
2) Green (part of twisted pair) from terminal 2 to load side, small
screw, of shunt.
3) Orange (part of twisted pair) from terminal 3 to small screw on
Battery side of shunt
4) Blue wire from terminal 4 thru 2 amp fuse (within 7" of battery) to
battery pos.
5) Red wire from terminal 5 thru 2 amp fuse (within 7" of battery) to
batter neg.
After all wiring is complete, then I insert blue wire (-) fuse and then
red wire (+) fuse.
To disconnect I do the reverse.
I would assume that if the light/battery bar and quick reference volts,
amps, amphrs, and time light up, then all the advanced functions work
also.
Since I am not going to pull any load, all I want to do is test the
emeter, I can use small gauge wire, 10 or 12.
Sorry to ask this but I want to make sure the connection sequence is
correct so I don't blow the emeter.
So when I go to hook this up on my EV with the battery pack I can make a
connector with the twisted pair, prescaler and dc/dc converter included
in the connector, connect them and then put in the fuses. I think Joe
Smalley said that he does this with several cars he monitors.
Thanks
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
--- End Message ---
