EV Digest 4882
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Modifying an E-tek motor
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Zilla "standby" current?
by "Claudio Natoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Performance cars, speed+ acceleration
by "Alain St-Yves" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) OT: Is this nonsense?
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Some pics of aircraft NiCad interconnects
by "Mueller, Craig M" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: Prius pack on eBay
by "OhNoJoe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project
by "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Where to buy GC batteries, cost permile /efficiency
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project
by Chris Martens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project
by Chris Martens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: No Trasmission?
by "Joe Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: I'm being electrically "outed"!
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) FS: 9 Evercel M100s
by Derrick J Brashear <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: OT: Is this nonsense?
by "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Performance cars, speed+ acceleration
by "ProEV" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: OT: Is this nonsense?
by Michael Hurley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Some pics of aircraft NiCad interconnects
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Prius pack on eBay
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: OT: Is this nonsense?
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: OT: Is this nonsense?
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) OT: New high efficiency solar
by Mike Ellis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Performance cars, speed+ acceleration
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
25) modifying an e-tek
by "Brian D.Hall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) ANSI keyway to tranny shaft converter
by Chris Martens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Zilla "standby" current?
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Stephen, Long time!
Are you still using a Zapi with that thing?
Regards
Evan.
On 10/29/05, Stephen Barnes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Mark,
>
> Sorry for the delay in replying, but I have a modified LEMCO mtor in my
> 2CVEV. Basically the motor armature has been banded with kevlar to increase
> it's strength. This means it can be run at higher speed, therefore higher
> voltage and so get more power. With the armature I have and double magnets
> (my motor is actually a single mag version) the LEMCO can be run at about
> 96V and up to 200A, which makes it quite powerful for it's size. It
> certainly drives my 2CV well enough.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> > Does anyone know the Zilla "standby" current? That is, how
> > much current is drawn through the hairball pin #2 (SLI +14V In)?
>
> The figure 20ma rings a (vague) bell. I'll double-check later
> on unless someone else pipes up.
Correction: just measured it as 68ma.
Cheers,
Claudio
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I have been interviewed today by Canada National TV in Montreal. Whent there
with my second hEV, an EV Cavalier assisted with generator. They had some
questions about EV accelerations and top speed. I told them I will supplied
them with links where EV have win against ICE cars.
Could you remenber me some of the best links where we have registered speed
or acceleration of the winners EV and ICE cars.
Also, I think I have read something about the Hybrid Honda Accord where
goverment does consider this car as it clean and secure to escape situations
where speed and acceleration are required. I am looking for reference about
this also.
Thanks to save me some time on search for these links.
Will put the Cavalier on the Album some time later.
Alain St-Yves
www.rocler.qc.ca/levehiculevert
www.vehiculevert.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If not, I'd like one for my EV please :)
"The energy released from this process is hundreds of times in excess
of the energy required to start it. The primary fuel is hydrogen gas,
which can be created inexpensively via electrolysis from water.
Energy is released as heat and may be converted to electricity using
known methods. The process is scalable from small, hand-held units to
large, fire-box replacements in large central power stations.
BlackLight's experimental results are published in over 65
peer-reviewed publications and have been replicated by many
independent groups. Reports by leading independent researchers claim
that the state of the art BlackLight Process reactors are ready for
development and commercialization."
http://www.blacklightpower.com/
Hmm. Doesn't seem to be the usual Tilley/Zero Point Energy rubbish.
But I'm not a physicist and can't tell if the description of how it
works is plausible. Anyone?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ryan,
It looks like a typical SAFT Aircraft battery setup - I used to
do some maintenance on these on a fleet of business jets (as an A&P
mechanic).
One word of caution in using rigid interconnects - you must
ensure the relative motion between batteries is extremely small, or
you'll cause fatigue cracks in the case or post connection structure. As
you saw, these cells are tightly packed in a rigid case (stainless
steel) with rubber spacers inserted or liners about the cell/case
interface to keep things tight. While a rigid interconnect might provide
the most ideal path for current in a static situation, I'd caution
against it for large (geometrically speaking) EV packs unless you are
able to stabilize against relative motion. Possibly consider a composite
of rigid interconnects and flexible cables in your design ideas...
Thanks for the pictures!
- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Stotts [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 5:01 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Some pics of aircraft NiCad interconnects
I used my cell phone camera to take pics of some batteries I saw at
school today(hence the image quality). The rubber lined lid used for
a hold down is interesting.
http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/8117/11030513092re.jpg
http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/4180/11030513102kf.jpg
http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/7195/11030513114xv.jpg
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/1993/11030513125xy.jpg
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/6239/11030513132xp.jpg
It won't be until January until we spend some time on batteries. I'll
try and find out what the source is for the interconnects and how much
they are.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was wondering when we would see this. I'm surprised that someone who is
tech savy hasn't already got a set or two of these and stuck them in their
EV kit.
What would it take to do that? Any got any idea???
Just a thought
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 10:18 PM
To: EV Discussion List
Subject: Prius pack on eBay
Starting bid is $299 - is this the going rate, or a real low start:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8011888954
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<To start off with, you idea to mate the motor and tranny using a pipe and
bolts won't work. HP isn't what breaks things, torque is. ELectric
motors can produce HUGE amounts of torque. You're 15hp motor can probably
produce more torque than the original Metro motor.
If you make the bolts large enough to withstand the sheering forces, then
the hole in the shaft are so large that the shafts will break (even inside
the pipe).>
Chris, the above is probably true, but you need to keep an open mind. I am
using this idea in my conversion. My entire drivetrain is relying on one 3/8
grade 8 bolt through the tranny input shaft. I too, expected it to break by
now and do expect it to break in the future as my torque increases. I am
throwing 1000 battery amps at 48 Volts on the launch of my 64 Chevelle and
burning a little asphalt, and for now its holding. So if it gets you on the
road and is within your budget, maybe it is worth a try. You can see my
adaptor at the following link, Jack. http://www.poormansev.com/id21.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 2:48 AM
Subject: Re: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project
Hello all, my name is Chris, from Carrboro, NC. I was kindly refereed to
your list after asking around about my project.
Hi Chris, welcome to the list. This is a great list and you can get a lot
of great advice here. Of course, you can also get some useless advice
here, but generally someone will point that out.
To start off with, you idea to mate the motor and tranny using a pipe and
bolts won't work. HP isn't what breaks things, torque is. ELectric
motors can produce HUGE amounts of torque. You're 15hp motor can probably
produce more torque than the original Metro motor.
If you make the bolts large enough to withstand the sheering forces, then
the hole in the shaft are so large that the shafts will break (even inside
the pipe).
Even low power EVs normally use taper lock hubs. This is basically a
small cone shaped innner hub with a split in it, and a larger hub with a
funnel shaped opening that the small humfits in. The two parts and then
drawn together with bolts forcing the inner hub down into the funnel.
This causes it to squeeze the motors shaft VERY tightly.
The convesions that don't use taper lock hubs, normally break, sooner or
later.
I'm trying to put together a hybrid car that runs on gasoline, but has
solar panels as well.
Are you planning on mounting the panels on the car? Pretty much useles if
you are.
one square yard worth of solar cells mounted flat on the roof will produce
pehaps 75 watts of power for maybe 4 or 5 hours a day. If you can squeeze
in 4 square yards of solar cells, you'll get 300 watts x 5 hours = 1500
watts hours. Subtract charging losses, etc, and you'll end up with enough
power for 4, maybe 5 miles tops.
It's different then current production hybrids in two
ways. First, it has much less power (about 10-15 HP for a Geo Metro).
That's fine, just realize that it will have a low top speed and probably
accelerate slowly. My electric truck tops out at about 30 hp. It takes
almost 90 seconds to reach 60mph, and my truck isrelatively light for a
conversion, only 3250 lbs.
Secondly, only
the electric motor powers the wheels, the gas motor powers a generator.
This has the advantage of running the gas motor at full throttle when
it is running, greatly increasing it's efficiency.
The motor is a lawnmower 5HP B&S, which I plan to convert to lean burn
fuel injection.
Unfortunately you are neglecting to take into account efficiency losses in
the generator, charging the batteries,and then the motor.
The generator will be maybe 85% efficient (if you're lucky), if you use it
to power a battery charger, then that will also be about 85%. You might
be able to run the generator right into the batteries, if you have the
right kind and someway to control chraging current. This will probably
dropthe generators efficiency, but you'd skip the losses in the charger.
Lead acid batteries have a charge efficiency of about 70-75%, as far as I
know all the other battery technologies are even worse, except perhaps
LiIon/LiPoly.
The cheap motor you are using is probably somewhere between 60% and 85%
efficient, had to tell without knowing what kind of motor it is.
So overall efficiency of the electric system is somewhere between 55%
(doubtful) to 30% (also doubtful), figure somewhere around 45-50%.
Now let's say your metro engine averages 18% when diving around, and let's
say you can manage to wring 35% out of the b&s (I doubt it). Adding your
electic components to make a series type hybrid (which is what you
described) makes your overall efficiency somewhere around 35% x 55% = 19%
to 35% x 30% = 10% with the most likely efficiency of about 16%.
You'd be far better off build a parallel hybrid (either electric motor, or
gas motor, or both, can drive the wheels), this way you maintain you
current top speed, and improve your acceleartion AND impove your
efficiency. Possibly toping off at 25% or better.
Not to mention that the B&S will produce about 100 times as much polution
as the metro engine.
Final problem, 5hp is NOWHERE near enough power. a 5HP b&s can produce
perhaps 3hp continously. You'll loose about 1/2 this going through the
electric components, so you'll only have about 1.5hp left.
Unless you plan on driving around at 25 mph, than isn't nearly enough.
The average car requires about 10hp to go 50mph.
FWIW, the similar system you probably read about was in Mother Earth News
right? Mother Earth printedthat article without verifying it, they tried
building a car following those direction and they could NOT duplicate the
authors claims. At a top speed of ~40 mph, they couldn't even come close.
I don't have the link to Mother Earth's article about this, but I'm sure
someone else will post it.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wow, that's pretty reasonable, I pay double for juice & batts, 12.66c per
kWh and at 300 miles per week and 80% DOD, my batts are usually toast around
10k with batts at $70. My E-Jeep (566wh per mile measured at recharge AC
plug) was 17c per mile to operate and the electro-metro (400wh per mile) was
around 10c per mile. The bomb Buggy (250wh permile) calculates to 8c per
mile for 12.66v kWh & $70 batts.
Have a nice day, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: Where to buy GC batteries in Compton Ca.
> Hello Mark,
>
> I normally do not replace the batteries every 10K miles, which would be 5
years for me. The last set of batteries, I bought was in 1990 and
replacement them in 2000 which is 10 years.
>
> My normal driving is all city driving with a average speed of 15 mph and a
maximum city speed of 30 mph. I do about ten half mile runs per day or
about 5 miles a day.
>
> The batteries I bought in 1990, were 30 each Exide 235 AH 6 volts. They
cost me $35.00 from a factory distributor, which would be $1050.00 for the
pack.
>
> Driving about 5 miles a day for ten years is about 18,250 miles.
>
> $1050.00 / 18,250 = $0.057 for the battery cost per mile.
>
> Electricity cost back then was $0.035 per KW. Today its is $0.06 so the
average cost would be about $0.045 per KW.
>
> I charge 9600 watts per 20 miles or .480 KW per mile.
>
> $0.045 x .480 = $0.0216 for the electricity cost per mile
>
> Therefore: $0.057 + $0.0216 = $0.078 per mile.
>
> Cost of gasoline back in 1990 was $1.00 a gal and today its down to $2.28
which I get 10% off on my gasoline card Discover Card, which would make it
$2.06 per gallon.
>
> The average cost from 1990 to now is about $1.53
>
> Therefore: $1.53/$0.078 = 19.6 mpg equal to gasoline.
>
> If you take the cost of electricity only, then $1.53/$0.0216 = 70.8 mpg.
>
> Today, my batteries are going on 4 years and they should last to 2010 or
more. These are Trojans T-145's 260 AH. 30 of these cost me $78.00 each
which is $2340.00. At 20,000 miles this would be about $0.11 per mile.
>
> The cost of electricity is now $0.06 per KW it will go down in the future,
because we are going to buy the electrical distribution and install
generation plants.
>
> So for now, keeping it at $0.06 per KW or $0.028 per mile, the estimate
for the next ten years would be:
>
> $0.11 + $0.028 = $0.138 per mile for electricity and batteries.
>
> For electricity alone it would be $0.028 per mile is equal to $2.06 per
gal./ $0.028 = 73.5 mpg.
>
> Normally if you can get 5 to 10 years out of a battery pack, you could
take this as the cost of the car. People normally may buy a new car every 5
years or In my case, I will do a complete overhaul of my cars in that time
span, which cost way over the cost of battery packs.
>
> If you took the cost all the cars you have bought in your life time, plus
the cost of maintenance and upgrades, a person could have bought a
$250,000.00 car or home with that money.
>
> Roland
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark Hanson<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 7:50 AM
> Subject: Re: Where to buy GC batteries in Compton Ca.
>
>
> Howdy, I was curious what your cost per mile is replacing the batts
every
> 10k miles + electricity in wHrs per mile?
> Thanks, Mark
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> To: <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 8:36 AM
> Subject: Re: Where to buy GC batteries in Compton Ca.
>
>
> > Hello Justin,
> >
> > Here is a Phone No. to Trojan where you can find shipment info and
where
> to purchase them in large wholesale lots. I had them deliver there
batteries
> right off the truck to my place if you buy in pallet loads.
1-800-423-6569
> >
> > Roland
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Justin
Southam<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> > To:
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>>
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 2:35 AM
> > Subject: Where to buy GC batteries in Compton Ca.
> >
> >
> > Hi All, I've been asked to ask if anyone here has good contacts for
> buying
> > Trojan batteries in or around Compton Ca. The requester has contacts
in
> > Compton who periodically send shipping containers to New Zealand. He
is
> > hoping to import them directly from the US as anything but the
locally
> > manufactured SLI batteries are very expensive here. IE Optima or
Orbital
> > $400ea, generic GC $200+ea. Contacts for USBattery would be good
too. I
> > recall seeing info before but never saved it as i didnt expect to
have a
> > use for it. Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Justin
> > Wellington
> > New Zealand
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.361 / Virus Database: 267.12.6/151 - Release Date:
28-10-05
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Sean Taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Check out McMaster Carr, http://www.mcmaster.com, for couplings - search
> for "shaft couplings". Plenty of different types there!
--Oh, thanks, they really have a lot of stuff.
--- Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> To start off with, you idea to mate the motor and tranny using a pipe and
> bolts won't work.
--Yeah, I,m beginning to get the point. I'm looking through mcmaster.com now
trying to find something that will work.
> (Solar) Subtract charging losses, etc, and you'll end up with enough
> power for 4, maybe 5 miles tops.
--Close to about what I figured, actually a little generous. But for me, that's
almost one free trip to the local store a day. The panels will be mounted on the
car, but I've been thinking of using a shiny panel next to where it's usually
parked to try and deflect more light on it.
> My electric truck tops out at about 30 hp. It takes
> almost 90 seconds to reach 60mph, and my truck is relatively light for a
> conversion, only 3250 lbs.
-- Yeah, it's going to be slow. Mostly for around town.
> You'd be far better off build a parallel hybrid (either electric motor, or
> gas motor, or both, can drive the wheels), this way you maintain you
> current top speed, and improve your acceleration AND improve your
> efficiency. Possibly toping off at 25% or better.
> Not to mention that the B&S will produce about 100 times as much pollution
> as the metro engine.
> Final problem, 5hp is NOWHERE near enough power.
-- I'm not so sure it will be as inefficient as you say. I'm using a simple
charging design. I'm also using Optima batteries, which have almost no
resistance or charging losses.
The real key is modifying the B&S to fuel injection, and running it at
(nearly)full throttle. What your calculations didn't take into account is the
higher efficiency of gas motors that aren't throttled. The other thing you
don't
account for is because the batteries are being continually trickle charged by
the
motor, and to a lesser extent from the solar, I don't need a big rack. I'm
trying to get away with 3, running a 24V motor at 36V. The batteries are acting
more like large capacitors. I stripped the Geo down to the bone, and don't have
to add much weight in batteries. It's more of a golf cart then a car.
The original design called for two etek motors, but now that I'm using a surplus
alternator and motor, I don't know what my efficiency numbers will be. I'm just
going to run with the idea, and see what I can do with it. Worse case: I buy
more batteries and dump the gas motor, converting it to electric only.
> FWIW, the similar system you probably read about was in Mother Earth News
> right? Mother Earth printed that article without verifying it, they tried
-- Actually, no. I read about this when I was a teenager(20 years ago) and
wanted to do it then. The problem at that time was that lead acid batteries
lost
a lot of power when charging, and solar panels didn't generate much amperage.
Those are the only two items I put real money into on this project to overcome
those problems.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Jack Knopf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> using this idea in my conversion. My entire drivetrain is relying on one 3/8
> grade 8 bolt through the tranny input shaft. I too, expected it to break by
> now and do expect it to break in the future as my torque increases. I am
I'd prefer to use something that is going to last, there is going to be enough
experimental stuff in this car without the basic stuff giving me problems. I
originally wanted use a more standard type of coupling, but simply couldn't find
anything that matched my odd setup. I'm trying to do this without many (any?)
visits to the machine shop, but if I could find a $40 mail order solution, I'd
rather concentrate my efforts on the other things I've yet to do - like making a
bracket. This motor has its mounting holes on the sides, not the face.
Thanks for the encouragement!
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks, Rodney, I did notice!
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rodney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 8:55 AM
Subject: RE: No Trasmission?
>
> Sorry guys
>
> I turned it off a little while ago.. You may have noticed it wasn't active
> on my last couple of posts..
>
> Sorry for the hassle
>
> :-)
>
> Keep smiling though!
>
> Rod
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Eric Poulsen
> Sent: Thursday, 3 November 2005 6:44 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: No Trasmission?
>
> Joe Strubhar wrote:
> > Hi, Rodney - when you post to this list, can you turn off the
> > auto-response on your e-mail? If you don't want to, that's OK, I can
> > deal with it; it's just irritating!
> >
> I agree.
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chris,
Those ones on the McMaster Carr site are awesome! The ones at the
bottom of the page (1039 I think) are easily capable of the torque your
setup would be putting out. They even have ones that can mate different
shaft diameters.
Jody
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Martens [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 9:38 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project
--- Jack Knopf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> using this idea in my conversion. My entire drivetrain is relying on one
3/8
> grade 8 bolt through the tranny input shaft. I too, expected it to break
by
> now and do expect it to break in the future as my torque increases. I am
I'd prefer to use something that is going to last, there is going to be
enough
experimental stuff in this car without the basic stuff giving me problems.
I
originally wanted use a more standard type of coupling, but simply couldn't
find
anything that matched my odd setup. I'm trying to do this without many
(any?)
visits to the machine shop, but if I could find a $40 mail order solution,
I'd
rather concentrate my efforts on the other things I've yet to do - like
making a
bracket. This motor has its mounting holes on the sides, not the face.
Thanks for the encouragement!
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David Dymaxion wrote:
I'm trying to keep a low profile on electrifying my car with my car
clubs -- hopefully get "Holy cow that thing is fast"
David, sounds like fun! Yes, you'll have the time of your life blowing
their minds.
So what started as an innocent question on classing gave rise to a
couple of my friends in-the-know dropping some hints, I think it is
pretty funny:
<http://forums.utahscca.com/viewtopic.php?t=1963&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0>
Thanks for the link. I read the whole thing...great stuff!
Keep up the good work, and please keep us all informed on how this
progresses.
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have 9 Evercel M100s which I was going to install into my car, but have
not, and probably would not in the near future. I also have 5 spare cells
in the event you develop a bad cell. The only catch is if you want it
shipped I'm going to have to solicit ideas from the list for shipping
them.
Also, I have 10 Rudman MK2b regulators which if the buyer wishes to pick
them up, new, fully assembled and never installed.
If you have questions, please let me know
Derrick
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just think, you'll be able to drive down the road comforted in knowing
that you're contributing "valuable chemicals" to the environment.
I have a hunch that this is a typical scam, but I can't put my finger on
why (other than phrases like "solved the atom", and just any notion that
you can derive energy from water and produce hydrogen as a byproduct).
But when looking at their list of publications, it seems a lot more
legitimate, or at least as though they worked a lot harder than most at
making it seem so.
I'd like to actually see some of these "peer reviewed articles" -- I
wonder if they just bought advertising space and these are the titles of
their ads? :o)
--chris
Evan Tuer said:
> If not, I'd like one for my EV please :)
>
> "The energy released from this process is hundreds of times in excess
> of the energy required to start it. The primary fuel is hydrogen gas,
> which can be created inexpensively via electrolysis from water.
> Energy is released as heat and may be converted to electricity using
> known methods. The process is scalable from small, hand-held units to
> large, fire-box replacements in large central power stations.
>
> BlackLight's experimental results are published in over 65
> peer-reviewed publications and have been replicated by many
> independent groups. Reports by leading independent researchers claim
> that the state of the art BlackLight Process reactors are ready for
> development and commercialization."
>
> http://www.blacklightpower.com/
>
> Hmm. Doesn't seem to be the usual Tilley/Zero Point Energy rubbish.
> But I'm not a physicist and can't tell if the description of how it
> works is plausible. Anyone?
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Alain,
ProEV's Kokam lithium polymer battery powered Electric Imp is undefeated in
five Autocrosses. We are running in the D modified class where all our
competition are ICEs.
We are also competing in SCCA closed circuit road racing in the Super
Production (Under 2 liter). The car is fast but we still have some work to
do to make it reliable. Our best finish is a second place.
The car is geared for circuit racing, rather than 0-60 times. Even so, 0-60
time is not terrible at 7 seconds. 120 mph (193 kph) is the highest speed
we have hit so far at the track. We average over 70 mph (112kph) around
Moroso Motor Sports Park's Road course.
More information is at www.ProEV.com
Cliff
www.ProEV.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alain St-Yves" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Cc: "Doug Hartley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 5:41 AM
Subject: Performance cars, speed+ acceleration
Hi,
I have been interviewed today by Canada National TV in Montreal. Whent
there
with my second hEV, an EV Cavalier assisted with generator. They had some
questions about EV accelerations and top speed. I told them I will
supplied
them with links where EV have win against ICE cars.
Could you remenber me some of the best links where we have registered
speed
or acceleration of the winners EV and ICE cars.
Also, I think I have read something about the Hybrid Honda Accord where
goverment does consider this car as it clean and secure to escape
situations
where speed and acceleration are required. I am looking for reference
about
this also.
Thanks to save me some time on search for these links.
Will put the Cavalier on the Album some time later.
Alain St-Yves
www.rocler.qc.ca/levehiculevert
www.vehiculevert.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>http://www.blacklightpower.com/
>
>Hmm. Doesn't seem to be the usual Tilley/Zero Point Energy rubbish.
>But I'm not a physicist and can't tell if the description of how it
>works is plausible. Anyone?
Well, at first glance they set off my internal BS sensors as they claim to have
solved the Grand Unified Theory. I'm not a physicist either, so I won't attempt
to debunk their theory, and perhaps it truly is a GUT, but I'd want to hear it
from Stephen Hawking before believing it.
--
Auf wiedersehen!
______________________________________________________
"..Um..Something strange happened to me this morning."
"Was it a dream where you see yourself standing in sort
of Sun God robes on a pyramid with a thousand naked
women screaming and throwing little pickles at you?"
"..No."
"Why am I the only person that has that dream?"
-Real Genius
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It looks like a typical SAFT Aircraft battery setup - I used to
do some maintenance on these on a fleet of business jets (as an A&P
mechanic).
They do look pretty good. However over on the BB600 list we have someone
who is making nickel-plated interconnects specifically for these
batteries. They are slotted, and seem to be working very well so far.
If you're going to work with flooded NiCDs, three words come to mind:
Plate with Nickel. I have some Home Depot crimps and zinc screws and
copper wire interconnects for view if anyone's thinking of going that
way (hint: In a week the crimps are destroyed, the screws are black, and
the copper wire is green with sulfate)
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Metric Mind has shaft converters that you might be able to get to work in
your application:
http://www.metricmind.com/index1.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Martens [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 2:53 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project
I would like to do that, but the shaft that comes out of the motor is
threaded,
and locked with a half-moon key. It was originally where the cooling fan
was,
and that kind of fastening isn't meant for much torque either. The motor is
actually two on the same shaft, with cooling fans on either side. Looks
kind of
like one of those old shoe polishing machines. I didn't pay much for the
motors,
so I'm not married to them, but I don't think any off-the-shelf solution
will
work for me. I figure If I use high grade bolts and the connection is snug
enough, they won't shear. I could fit two bolts on either end.
Chris
--- "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I would be very leary of putting the motors together with a section of
pipe
> and a couple of bolts. That puts an awful lot of stress on those two
bolts.
> Why not use a motor to motor coupling made or bought that would put them
> together with a rubber spider in between them. If you do a google search
> for shaft couplers you will see the type of setup I am referring to.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
OhNoJoe wrote:
I was wondering when we would see this. I'm surprised that someone who is
tech savy hasn't already got a set or two of these and stuck them in their
EV kit.
What would it take to do that? Any got any idea???
I have.
I bought a Prius pack to test the batteries and see just how they might
work out in my Prizm (300 volt AC system). For testing purposes I used a
40amp load, then my Elec-trak.
The Elec-trak is an interesting platform. It's only a 36 volt system,
however it's amp loads closely reflect the Prizm's (60 amps normal, 100
amps with the mower on, up to 150 or so with the tiller).
The NiMH batteries can handle a 40-60 amp discharge rate. However if
you're going to go into the 100 or so you need to get off the line you
will need to have parallel strings. That's where it gets complicated.
In addition, these are small batteries (6.5ah) so you have to be careful
in charging them. I was able to use a BQ2003 based charger that
monitored dv/dt, dT/dt, and time on charge. It worked ok on a 3 battery
string (18 cells) however it blew up a battery when I went to a C charge
rate (7amp). That was with temp monitoring, the cell just ruptured.
The DV drop is very subtle on these batteries, and can be missed if you
have too many cells in series, or if the charge rate is too high.
What Toyota seems to do is monitor the voltage on every other battery
and monitor temp in 3 locations. My guess is they watch the batteries
for dv, then do a slow overcharge once the first one hits it to bring
the rest up to spec. If you're thinking of doing these batteries you
will need this.
You will also want more than one string. Charging multiple strings of
these is not going to work without seperating on charge. Not impossible,
but you will need multiple chargers and monitors on every other battery.
To get 30 miles range you will need 6 strings, 300 volts base, and a
lot of monitoring ability (250 monitors). This could get complex.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
"Hydrino theory is a colloquial term for one aspect of a controversial
new theory of atomic chemistry and physics developed by medical doctor,
chemist and inventor, Dr. Randell Mills
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Randell_Mills>, MD, termed "Classical
Quantum Mechanics". This theory has not, as yet, been accepted by the
physics community"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrino
Danny
Evan Tuer wrote:
http://www.blacklightpower.com/
Hmm. Doesn't seem to be the usual Tilley/Zero Point Energy rubbish.
But I'm not a physicist and can't tell if the description of how it
works is plausible. Anyone?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
"Dr Mills argues that there are plenty of flaws in Dr Rathke's critique.
"His paper's riddled with mistakes. We've had other physicists contact
him and say this is embarrassing to the journal and [Dr Rathke] won't
respond," said Dr Mills."
http://www.guardian.co.uk/renewable/Story/0,2763,1627425,00.html
Danny
Danny Miller wrote:
"Hydrino theory is a colloquial term for one aspect of a controversial
new theory of atomic chemistry and physics developed by medical
doctor, chemist and inventor, Dr. Randell Mills
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Randell_Mills>, MD, termed "Classical
Quantum Mechanics". This theory has not, as yet, been accepted by the
physics community"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrino
Danny
Evan Tuer wrote:
http://www.blacklightpower.com/
Hmm. Doesn't seem to be the usual Tilley/Zero Point Energy rubbish.
But I'm not a physicist and can't tell if the description of how it
works is plausible. Anyone?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I know this is somewhat off topic, but this would be very useful for home
generation for our EVs.
Two companies are releasing a new form of solar power generators. They use
the same high efficiency photovoltaics that spacecraft use. However since
the stuff is hugely expensive, they use small pieces of it, and use Frensel
lenses to collect sunlight from a large area and focus it onto the small PV
panels. A 6 KW system is expected to cost $13-15K.
http://www.earthtoys.com/emagazine.php?issue_number=05.06.01&article=pyron
http://www.abc.net.au/newinventors/txt/s1487858.htm
-Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 11/4/05 7:36:17 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
<< Subj: Re: Performance cars, speed+ acceleration
Date: 11/4/05 7:36:17 AM Pacific Standard Time
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (ProEV)
Sender: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-to: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Hi Alain,
ProEV's Kokam lithium polymer battery powered Electric Imp is undefeated in
five Autocrosses. We are running in the D modified class where all our
competition are ICEs.
We are also competing in SCCA closed circuit road racing in the Super
Production (Under 2 liter). The car is fast but we still have some work to
do to make it reliable. Our best finish is a second place.
The car is geared for circuit racing, rather than 0-60 times. Even so, 0-60
time is not terrible at 7 seconds. 120 mph (193 kph) is the highest speed
we have hit so far at the track. We average over 70 mph (112kph) around
Moroso Motor Sports Park's Road course.
More information is at www.ProEV.com
Cliff
www.ProEV.com
>>
Great Job Cliff Dennis Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
We saw an modified E-tek with brushes on both sides, double the current?48
volts is not the problem, heat and high rpms are , keep it cool and under 5k
and they last a long time.
Mainfuse
> > The E-tek is a cheap chinese made copy of the Lemco aka Lynch motor.
> > The Lemco has better efficiency, but costs about 4x as much.
> >
> > There is no simple asnswer to your question, because it depends on how
you
> > modify the motor. Simple mods to allow it to survive higher RPMS will
> > have no effect on efficiency. It might be possible to heavily modify the
> > motor and improve it's efficiency, but I think that would cost more than
> > buying a better motor.
> >
>
> Eteks peak ~88% and can't tolerate much over 48v continuously when also
run at
> high currents while the Lynch nears 92% with higher voltage and current
> tolerance, but those who like to "experiment" will probably go with the
cheaper
> one! Ely from Electricmoto has banded the armature for higher rpm's and
others
> have added more air flow for high current, but wouldn't it be better to
add
> bigger brushes if you want to force in more current?
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Jody, those converters will fit onto a car tranny, but I think they only
adapt to the type of motor sold on that website. They also are solid so they
don't have any tolerance for misalignment, and they are pricey - ~$300.
http://www.mcmaster.com/ has some good couplings, but they are ANSI keyway on
both ends.
So then, what do people usually use in a clutchless setup? - ANSI keyway motor
to splined shaft tranny.
Chris
--- "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Metric Mind has shaft converters that you might be able to get to work in
> your application:
>
> http://www.metricmind.com/index1.htm
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks!
Claudio Natoli wrote:
Does anyone know the Zilla "standby" current? That is, how
much current is drawn through the hairball pin #2 (SLI +14V In)?
The figure 20ma rings a (vague) bell. I'll double-check later
on unless someone else pipes up.
Correction: just measured it as 68ma.
Cheers,
Claudio
--- End Message ---
