EV Digest 4902
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: Tacho sender ideas
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: E-Meter wiring
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Air Conditioning non-operational on Force
by "Sean Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Tacho sender ideas
by "Nick 'Sharkey' Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: R/C Electric Mower
by John David <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) kokam
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: How to tell is ICE is going
by "Dave & Deb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Riddle me this (newbie)....
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Wheel motors
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Riddle me this (newbie)....
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) R/C Electric Mower
by John David <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) re: Air Conditioning non-operational on Force
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: Air Conditioning non-operational on Force
by "Noel P. Luneau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Air Conditioning non-operational on Force
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: How to tell is ICE is going
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: R/C Electric Mower
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Air Conditioning non-operational on Force
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Ev convert, me and the car.
by John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Unorthodox cell connections
by Cory Cross <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Wheel motors
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: R/C Electric Mower
by John David <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Air Conditioning non-operational on Force
by "Noel P. Luneau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: mower update part 2 Comments
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: How to tell is ICE is going
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: very weak demand for Toyota and Honda EVs?
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Subject: Re: Dune Buggy Weight - conversion-Dennis Berube buggy.
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: R/C Electric Mower
by Mark Coccimiglio <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: R/C Electric Mower
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Hydrogen Vs Electric Hybrid
by Allan Alessio <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Curve looks nice. I know of a crankshaft sensor on my old fiat regatta with
the crank pulley having a small indent in it.
My shaft coupling in smooth metal all the way. But is it a good idea to put
some sort of insulating material at one spot so that it acted like the
sensor described for the fiat regatta. The alignment must be right as well
as the distance from the sensor head to the metal right?
Is there any commercial place that sells such reluctance sensors?
Cheers
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Nick 'Sharkey' Moore
Sent: 14 November 2005 08:36
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Tacho sender ideas
On 2005-11-13, Peter VanDerWal wrote:
>
> Are you using a flywheel? DOes it still have the ring gear? If so, then
> you can mount an electromagnet (steel bar with a coil around it) near, but
> not touching the teeth. Energies the coil and you will get pulses on it
> when the teeth come near.
Even better, wrap the coil around a small permanent magnet, and any time
a piece of iron passes the magnet you'll get a very nice pulse out.
Often called a "variable reluctance" sensor, I think.
Output looks like this when a bit of mild steel passes 1mm from the
sensor tip: http://zoic.org/sharkey/moto/efi/pix/pulse-546.jpg
.. the little hiccup at the zero crossing is my fault, because I
filed the rotating vane by hand (and spun it in the drill press),
and it is slightly off center. I think that trace is at 1V/div.
> I don't have enough information with me out here, but I've worked on
> machines in the past that used this kind of sensor.
> Hmm, you might even be able to recycle a "crankshaft sensor" from a modern
> fuel injected engine.
Yeah, the sensor above is from my Honda motorcycle and is of very robust
construction. You could do a lot worse than to scrounge around in
motorcycle wreckers' yards for such things. The Honda ones sit inside
the crankcase, splashed by hot oil, so they're pretty damned robust.
-----sharks
--
"If we knew what it was we were doing, it would not be called research,
would it?" -- Albert Einstein
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Nov 12, 2005, at 6:18 PM, TiM M wrote:
I'm finally getting my E-Meter installed. I seem to
remember that the sequence in which you connect the
wires can be critical to keeping the smoke where it
belongs. The manual that came with the meter doesn't
make any reference to the order of how things get
connected when.
I have not had any issues with the 12 volt side (optional isolated 12v
DC to DC converter used.) However, the meter is only rated for 50 volts
peak. I strongly recommend that the positive wire from the prescaler to
the battery pack be connected last. The 2 shunt wires and the pack
negative wire have almost no potential between them. Having the 12v
side on when I have done this never caused me any trouble (it would
read 0 volts until I connected that last wire.) The Pickup I sold had a
130VDC rated switch on the firewall that would remove pack positive
from the Todd, DCP precharge, and E-meter prescaler (old style rotary
light switch.)
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't know the specifics of that problem, but in general, A/C systems
have a sensor to detect if there is refrigerant in the system. If not,
the motor/clutch won't engage. If the compressor is turning by hand, at
least it isn't frozen, but typically, IME, leaks in A/C systems occur
at/in the compressor. Check the motor that drives the compressor with a
voltmeter to make sure it is getting voltage. If not, there is an
electrical problem somewhere, or it is sensing the lack of coolant.
Sean Taylor
Urbana, IL
On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 15:31:51 -0600, Noel P. Luneau <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
Hey guys,
I have a Force with non-operational Air Conditioning. I was hoping that
the A/C issues were related to zero levels of R134a. When I'm at a stop
and turn the key, then engage the A/C, the A/C motor does not turn. I
checked both fuses and rotated the compressor belt, and it turns by
hand.
Could the A/C motor be fried? I was thinking of next removing the
connector and measuring the voltage.
Has anyone had this problem? If it is the motor would this be a
Solectria only part?
Thanks,
Noel L
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 2005-11-14, Robert Chew wrote:
> Curve looks nice. I know of a crankshaft sensor on my old fiat regatta with
> the crank pulley having a small indent in it.
Yeah, if I'd spent a bit more time filing, or cut the vane on a machine,
it would have a nice clean zero-crossing corresponding to the center of
the vane aligning with the axis of the magnet. As it was I got it 'good
enough' by eyeball.
> My shaft coupling in smooth metal all the way. But is it a good idea to put
> some sort of insulating material at one spot so that it acted like the
> sensor described for the fiat regatta. The alignment must be right as well
> as the distance from the sensor head to the metal right?
The voltage is proportional to the amount of iron moving into or out of
the magnet's field, I think. So it'll pick up on practically anything,
like the mild steel rotor in my case. The closer it is, the denser the
magnetic field so the higher the signal ... actually, if you look at the
left edge of the screen you can see the slightly bigger pulse from the
other end of the slightly asymmetrical rotor in my test setup.
-----sharks
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Also, does anyone think there is anything special about the controller
they offer for over $300? It's shown at their hyperlink to kits and
parts.
John David
On 11/13/05, John David <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> All,
> I found this website, http://evatech.net/ , via Make Magazine
> and looks like an awesome idea to adapt to a battery powered mower. I
> have Black and Decker MM1000 and am thinking about adapting this idea
> to it. Are there any remote control car experts on the list? How "off
> the shelf" are R/C car parts? Would they adapt to wheel chair motors
> easily? Programming a chip is out of the question for me for now. This
> would also be a great way to add battery capacity to the mower. If you
> don't have to push it then battry weight isn't much of an issue. My
> MM1000 has two motorcycle-size gel cell batteries and if I had a setup
> like this I could easily double them. This would also be great for EV
> PR. Though it's not much of an issue with electric mowers, hearing
> protection would be a strong selling point with something like this.
> Some things I would need to sort out:
>
> -A dead man switch for the mower blade, maybe a pinkie switch on the
> hand controller.
> -A steering system. By the looks of the website, they experimented
> with both castering front wheel with differential driven rear wheels
> which would require two motors and a discontinued model with battery
> driven rear wheels and a forward steering system though it still used
> two motors. I wonder if one motor would have enough guts to push
> something like this?
> -I would like to keep the option of bagging the grass so would have to
> change the component location to keep the rear area clear for grass
> catcher attachment.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> John David
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Have been trying to get info on Kokam cells in the 40 or 100ah size.
nada,zilch, not one response to my emails. Are they in transition to
eagle pitcher ownership or are they a real product ?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If the suspension and the rest of the car is in good shape I'd do it now.
It's only going to deteriorate as you wait for the engine's last gasp. by
that time the suspension might be shot, it may have picked up a few more
dents etc. converting a car is a lot of work. Start with something worth
converting and spending $$ on!
Dave
> HI All,
>
> I have a general question about the lifespan of ICE's. I want to convert
> my
> Hyundai Excel (after I finish with my Fiat). The engine always had little
> power. I find that after four weeks, well between 3-4 weeks, the oil level
> dropped from high to low. I pretty much have to use 1 - 1.5 litres of
> extra
> top up oil between my oil changes. I am using thick oil as well. The
> mechanical side of the car is in great shape. Very nice to drive and
> smooth
> too.
>
> I think in the past, my dad ran it without oil for a short period because
> the oil light failed to go on. And he just serviced it a few weeks back.
> So
> temp rised cause of that.
>
> It's a 91 model. Done 175,000km. Always being regularly serviced. Its got
> the oild mitsu lancer engine in it. I know they are renowed for drinking
> oil.
>
> Anyone able to give me a rough lifespan on the remaining years left.
>
> Cheers
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
EPA estimates are based on a set of formulas, NOT test drives. They
didn't have good models for hybrids. and some were low and others were
high. They'll get it eventually. I like http://www.fueleconomy.gov/ who
shows a 2004 insight avarage of 77.5 mpg right next to the lower EPA
numbers. :-)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Peter asked
Wouldn't it be simpler and cheaper to just make it a front wheel drive?
Probably, but... not what the customer is wanting.
They have specified RWD but will accept all 4 wheels driven. They want
decent performance and a Show stopping engine i guess.
I may be able to get some motors for myself out of this little project,
but i need help sourceing!
Thanks, I have sent emails to UQM and TM4 so far no replys,
I was also thinking of makeing my own using Alxion's frameless kits.
This company is in france and has responded to me in the past, with
great info on price,availability and options. (better prices than
Kollmorgen or Heason)
Anyone know of any others ?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
back at ya peanut gallery.
While I only got to drive the 300zx for a couple of weeks before I
broke it, I had a blast. I had no trouble keeping up or surpassing
traffic and there was those weeks where I didn't buy gas for my 95 grand
am. It may get 28mpg on the freeway but around town it gets 17.5 no
matter how I drive, and that adds up to $160/month in gas so if my agms
only lasted 3 years 160/month would pay for one a month+all the energy
to charge it.
However... since going on-grid with my solar panels nov 1 of last year I
have made 4900 KWH, Even at 300 wh/mile that is around 16,000 miles. I
haven't driven over 12K in a year for a while. We pay .13 to .35 / kwh
but storing it on the grid, the KW are traded, and the cost is not seen.
Next year I plan to not know the answer when someone asks me how much
gas is a gallon. :-)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
All,
I found this website, http://evatech.net/ , via Make Magazine
and looks like an awesome idea to adapt to a battery powered mower. I
have Black and Decker MM1000 and am thinking about adapting this idea
to it. Are there any remote control car experts on the list? How "off
the shelf" are R/C car parts? Would they adapt to wheel chair motors
easily? Programming a chip is out of the question for me for now. This
would also be a great way to add battery capacity to the mower. If you
don't have to push it then battry weight isn't much of an issue. My
MM1000 has two motorcycle-size gel cell batteries and if I had a setup
like this I could easily double them. This would also be great for EV
PR. Though it's not much of an issue with electric mowers, hearing
protection would be a strong selling point with something like this.
Some things I would need to sort out:
-A dead man switch for the mower blade, maybe a pinkie switch on the
hand controller.
-A steering system. By the looks of the website, they experimented
with both castering front wheel with differential driven rear wheels
which would require two motors and a discontinued model with battery
driven rear wheels and a forward steering system though it still used
two motors. I wonder if one motor would have enough guts to push
something like this?
-I would like to keep the option of bagging the grass so would have to
change the component location to keep the rear area clear for grass
catcher attachment.
Any ideas?
John David
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Most 134 systems are, by nauture, newer and there is a very good chance
that there is a pressure switch to prevent the AC clutch from pulling in
unless you have suffient charge. First you need to jumper that switch
for a sec and see if the clutch pulls in.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks Sean,
I tested the voltage to the A/C Motor and it getting no juice from the
A/C controller. However the controller is getting juice. I suspect
that the Solectria DC20 controller is U/S.
Noel L
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Sean Taylor
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 2:05 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning non-operational on Force
I don't know the specifics of that problem, but in general, A/C systems
have a sensor to detect if there is refrigerant in the system. If not,
the motor/clutch won't engage. If the compressor is turning by hand, at
least it isn't frozen, but typically, IME, leaks in A/C systems occur
at/in the compressor. Check the motor that drives the compressor with a
voltmeter to make sure it is getting voltage. If not, there is an
electrical problem somewhere, or it is sensing the lack of coolant.
Sean Taylor
Urbana, IL
On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 15:31:51 -0600, Noel P. Luneau
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Hey guys,
>
> I have a Force with non-operational Air Conditioning. I was hoping
that
> the A/C issues were related to zero levels of R134a. When I'm at a
stop
> and turn the key, then engage the A/C, the A/C motor does not turn. I
> checked both fuses and rotated the compressor belt, and it turns by
> hand.
>
> Could the A/C motor be fried? I was thinking of next removing the
> connector and measuring the voltage.
>
> Has anyone had this problem? If it is the motor would this be a
> Solectria only part?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Noel L
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You may have low operating pressure. There is a low pressure switch that is in
series with the A/C clutch on the pump. If you have low pressure, then there
is no 12 VDC to the pump clutch. Check your voltage at the pump. If there is
none, then pull the plug going to the low pressure switch and check for
voltage.
If there is voltage on one side of the plug, then install a jump in the plug
contacts and check to see if you have voltage at the A/C pump. If you do, then
you could have low pressure in the system or the low pressure switch is at
fault.
If there is no voltage on either contact on the low pressure switch plug, than
work back to the A/C relay. This is control by 12 VDC from you on dash A/C
control switch. You just have to keep tracing back to the source.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Noel P. Luneau<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 2:31 PM
Subject: Air Conditioning non-operational on Force
Hey guys,
I have a Force with non-operational Air Conditioning. I was hoping that
the A/C issues were related to zero levels of R134a. When I'm at a stop
and turn the key, then engage the A/C, the A/C motor does not turn. I
checked both fuses and rotated the compressor belt, and it turns by
hand.
Could the A/C motor be fried? I was thinking of next removing the
connector and measuring the voltage.
Has anyone had this problem? If it is the motor would this be a
Solectria only part?
Thanks,
Noel L
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
HI
Tell me bout it. Conversion is a lot of work and money. I have already spent
6000 on my Fiat conversion. Will toss up whether to convert this car or not
or get a Alfa GTV6 for a conversion, race car project. Nice cars, they are
with the transaxle at the back driving the rear wheels. Would be easy to
connect the motor to the prop shaft and still retain clutch. Anyone done a
conversion like this? With this sort of car?
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dave & Deb
Sent: 14 November 2005 09:49
To: [email protected]
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: How to tell is ICE is going
If the suspension and the rest of the car is in good shape I'd do it now.
It's only going to deteriorate as you wait for the engine's last gasp. by
that time the suspension might be shot, it may have picked up a few more
dents etc. converting a car is a lot of work. Start with something worth
converting and spending $$ on!
Dave
> HI All,
>
> I have a general question about the lifespan of ICE's. I want to convert
> my
> Hyundai Excel (after I finish with my Fiat). The engine always had little
> power. I find that after four weeks, well between 3-4 weeks, the oil level
> dropped from high to low. I pretty much have to use 1 - 1.5 litres of
> extra
> top up oil between my oil changes. I am using thick oil as well. The
> mechanical side of the car is in great shape. Very nice to drive and
> smooth
> too.
>
> I think in the past, my dad ran it without oil for a short period because
> the oil light failed to go on. And he just serviced it a few weeks back.
> So
> temp rised cause of that.
>
> It's a 91 model. Done 175,000km. Always being regularly serviced. Its got
> the oild mitsu lancer engine in it. I know they are renowed for drinking
> oil.
>
> Anyone able to give me a rough lifespan on the remaining years left.
>
> Cheers
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Naw, that's almost pointless to make it remote controlled since you
still have to operate it. You want the Friendly Robotics Robomower.
All electric and uses a staked perimeter wire to decide where to stop
moving.
Danny
John David wrote:
All,
I found this website, http://evatech.net/ , via Make Magazine
and looks like an awesome idea to adapt to a battery powered mower. I
have Black and Decker MM1000 and am thinking about adapting this idea
to it. Are there any remote control car experts on the list? How "off
the shelf" are R/C car parts? Would they adapt to wheel chair motors
easily? Programming a chip is out of the question for me for now. This
would also be a great way to add battery capacity to the mower. If you
don't have to push it then battry weight isn't much of an issue. My
MM1000 has two motorcycle-size gel cell batteries and if I had a setup
like this I could easily double them. This would also be great for EV
PR. Though it's not much of an issue with electric mowers, hearing
protection would be a strong selling point with something like this.
Some things I would need to sort out:
-A dead man switch for the mower blade, maybe a pinkie switch on the
hand controller.
-A steering system. By the looks of the website, they experimented
with both castering front wheel with differential driven rear wheels
which would require two motors and a discontinued model with battery
driven rear wheels and a forward steering system though it still used
two motors. I wonder if one motor would have enough guts to push
something like this?
-I would like to keep the option of bagging the grass so would have to
change the component location to keep the rear area clear for grass
catcher attachment.
Any ideas?
John David
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Minor clarification. On the Solectria A/C there is no clutch. What
would normally cycle the clutch instead cycles the controller on and
off. Your system is probably so low on R-134a that the lower
pressure switch won't close, preventing the controller from switching
on. you can jumper it for testing, but it sounds like all your
system needs is to be recharged. R-134a has a higher leakage rate
than R-12 did and I think the custom hoses used on the Forces may
have not been as well made as they could have been. In addition, the
inexpensive compressor from the Geo donor seems to have a problem
with seals. The result of all this is a slow loss of refrigerant.
Jumper the switch to prove it works, then get the system recharged.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
'95 Solectria Force
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On If you haven't done so already, check with electroauto
(http://www.electroauto.com/index.html)
While making an adapter for me I believe they generated a pattern for
my 5 speed transmission that mated to a Nissan VG30 V6 from a 86.5
pickup. Don't know if it is the same transmission or not. If they don't
have a pattern already, if you ship them your transmission they will
create a pattern and adapter. As I recall they will pay shipping both
ways on the transmission.
Saturday, November 12, 2005, at 08:00 PM, laptop2 wrote:
Couple questions.
Is there a pre-made adapter for a 1976 280z 5 speed manual available
anywhere? I've sent a few emails off but no reply as of yet.
What size motor and voltage would be recommended for this car?
I don't have any large hills nearby and will be city driving 95% of the
time sub 45mph. But I'd like it to hit freeway speeds and climb a hill
if I really needed too.
I haven't torn the car apart yet but the caburators on the v6 ICE are
making this thing top out at 40mph anyway so its about time I convert
it.
If this car is a poor choice for a conversion please let me know and I
will just sell it and buy another gas guzzler hehe.
Tnx
Mario
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ken Trough wrote:
I have kind of an odd question. I am wondering how one might connect a
standard sized cell (F cell for instance) to a circuit without a
soldered connection point. In other words, are there any methods that
have been used successfully for getting 50-100A out of a cell without
scortching the ends? If you think about flashlights, those usually
involve a stack of cells in series that are held in place with a
spring. I don't believe such a configuration will work for higher amp
draws.
I have heard of this with people who race high-end r/c cars. I remember
that it was like a normal pack, but with springs to hold the tabs on
rather than solder, welds, etc. I believe the battery pack had two hard
plates, with the cells, interconnects, etc on the inside and then bolted
down to tighten the springs. These are the sort of people who count
millivolt differences at 20C discharge rates...
Good luck,
Cory Cross
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jeff Shanab wrote:
> The only way to drive the rear wheels that I can think of in this
> scenario is with wheel motors.
Maybe these are still floating around somewhere?
http://www.detnews.com/2003/autosinsider/0308/12/b02-242629.htm
Another article about them:
http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/031001.htm
"The wheel hub motors were made by Lucchi R. Elettromeccanica Srl, in
Rimini, Italy, and developed by GM's Advanced Technology Center based
in Torrance, California. Quantum Technologies, of Irvine, California,
built the concept truck,"
http://www.saturnfans.com/Cars/Future/motorinwheels.shtml
http://www.gm.com/company/gmability/adv_tech/100_news/wheel_hub_081203.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sorry for the multiple posts but I keep coming up with different
ideas. This idea also wouldn't be too difficult to adapt to a reel
mower. I always liked reel mowers more than sling blades. A frame
could be made for one or two reels which could also be covered for
better safety (the one thing I didn't like about reel mowers is they
are so exposed) and the same motors that drive the wheels could also
drive the reels. This might require seperate steering up front because
I don't know if reels would drive well with differing speed inputs on
either side. Thoughts? Or too many on my part? ;-)
John David
On 11/13/05, John David <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Also, does anyone think there is anything special about the controller
> they offer for over $300? It's shown at their hyperlink to kits and
> parts.
>
> John David
>
> On 11/13/05, John David <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > All,
> > I found this website, http://evatech.net/ , via Make Magazine
> > and looks like an awesome idea to adapt to a battery powered mower. I
> > have Black and Decker MM1000 and am thinking about adapting this idea
> > to it. Are there any remote control car experts on the list? How "off
> > the shelf" are R/C car parts? Would they adapt to wheel chair motors
> > easily? Programming a chip is out of the question for me for now. This
> > would also be a great way to add battery capacity to the mower. If you
> > don't have to push it then battry weight isn't much of an issue. My
> > MM1000 has two motorcycle-size gel cell batteries and if I had a setup
> > like this I could easily double them. This would also be great for EV
> > PR. Though it's not much of an issue with electric mowers, hearing
> > protection would be a strong selling point with something like this.
> > Some things I would need to sort out:
> >
> > -A dead man switch for the mower blade, maybe a pinkie switch on the
> > hand controller.
> > -A steering system. By the looks of the website, they experimented
> > with both castering front wheel with differential driven rear wheels
> > which would require two motors and a discontinued model with battery
> > driven rear wheels and a forward steering system though it still used
> > two motors. I wonder if one motor would have enough guts to push
> > something like this?
> > -I would like to keep the option of bagging the grass so would have to
> > change the component location to keep the rear area clear for grass
> > catcher attachment.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > John David
> >
>
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You rock Mike.
R-134a recharge was the key. The A/C is all ready for the Northern
California Winter.) It's pretty warm for a Canadian :)
Noel L
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Mike Chancey
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 3:47 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning non-operational on Force
Minor clarification. On the Solectria A/C there is no clutch. What
would normally cycle the clutch instead cycles the controller on and
off. Your system is probably so low on R-134a that the lower pressure
switch won't close, preventing the controller from switching on. you
can jumper it for testing, but it sounds like all your system needs is
to be recharged. R-134a has a higher leakage rate than R-12 did and I
think the custom hoses used on the Forces may have not been as well made
as they could have been. In addition, the inexpensive compressor from
the Geo donor seems to have a problem with seals. The result of all
this is a slow loss of refrigerant.
Jumper the switch to prove it works, then get the system recharged.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
'95 Solectria Force
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com My Electric Car at:
http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org Join the EV List at:
http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
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--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I've talked about my business plan for Ev's before , I build them with my
own money from my lawn business , then let people drive them and pay me a
token $100 per month, I put them all up for sale on www.grassrootsev.com
for
the price of the parts plus $20 per hour for my labor, which is about 1/3
what I make cutting grass.
WHAT A DEAL! Sorry for shouting, but that sounds like the best deal on
the planet? Sigh!
on or for :-) .
You arent overwhelmed with the conversion biz??
no , But I am helping people over the phone with there projects more and
more.
Maybe ya
need a CT, NY branch office!?
Jon who is the web master of the www.grassrootsev.com web site is looking
for people who are doing conversions to list their business's on the web
site . I still haven;t done it myself . .
I may hafta come out of retirement and help ya
cut grass<g>!How many mowers can I tow with a Rabbit?
My plan is to put 40 golfs in my work truck , 240v so I can charge the mower
many time a day , I'll also have some real range , I think I'll be able to
drive up and see Jerry and his Freedom car soon and drive to the Drag races
, maybe tow the Mitsubishi pick up set up to race . >
Hi Steve;
What a heart warming story!Like Jerry Dycus, also in FLA, ya have a full
plate! Wonders you are doing for the Cause! I can see the new Electric
Clunn
Mower rolling out some day, for Everybody.
If Shawn Lawless gets his going and in production I might be able to out fit
lawn businesses with a dump charging pack , and be a dealer for his stuff.
He's got allot of the stuff worked out that I haven't , the electric motors
to drive the wheels is a big thing I'm missing . The little bit I;ve done
with it shows me how really bad the hydro drives are , . I feel I could cut
2 times as lone If I had the electric drive to the wheel . Lucky for me I
can get by with what I have . but when I see the thing pulling 50 amp and I
turn on the blades and see 80amp , I know what I got to work on . I really
underestimated how well fast charging between yards could work for me . Just
like people under estimate how much opportunity charging will help them .
or nitch, for EV's and is very On Topic. A revived, modernized Elect Trac.
Oh ya can't call it THAT. Generous Electric couuld have issues. But in my
Perfect World would be a buncha 36 or 48 or maybe EVen 60 volt tracters,
One reason I'm running 96v is so I can fast charge , at a lower voltage it
would take twice a long to charge.
batteries nestled in a moulded fiberglas or carbon fibre biodt, light, and
WHEEE! NO rust! Wash it down with a hose, INSIDE and out. Aboard an
inverter
for a mobile power supply, lavish amounts of 120/240 for your power
outrage
needs. Nice mower, snow plow/thrower, tiller or whatEVer you need. Maybe
nicad powered as the nicad 600's seem to do well in Electracs.
I was thinking about the Valance Li-ions , this could give me 4 time the
drive time .
Tracters like
to be heavey, so weight isn't an issue.
There is the problem of putting ruts in the yard but I'm still ok .
But for a purpose built mower, it
could be built as lite as ya can, to carry more batteries. Steve would be
the design expert here.
Is that the guy that waves his hands in the air and say " I want it to do
this , and I want it to cost this and I want it by then" .
Looking for Mower Update 3
I posted it , update 4 ;;; Took the good wheels of the gas mower and put
them on the electric , This means the gas mower is now the back up and won't
be used at all unless something goes wrong with the electric . "I think it
dead Jim " . I cut one of my biggest yards yesterday , a church , 1/2 way
through I stopped and charged , while charging I did the weedwacking and
other stuff , then finished it off .The short run time is not a problem . I
converted an edger awhile back , it has a 32v motor , I was running if from
they truck , off 1/2 the pack ( ya I know , I was throwing my pack out of
balance but It was just till I got this mower done :-) and now I can power
it from the lawn mower . I'll be converting other tools also . putting
series motors on to replace the gas , not the low amp stuff you buy in the
store that runs of 120 ac and a few amp, . The edger pulls about 15amps at
96v and has way more power that it did when gas.
Steve Clunn
Seeya
May be at the florida drag races?
Bob
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On 14 Nov 2005 at 8:23, Robert Chew wrote:
> Anyone able to give me a rough lifespan on the remaining years left [on
> my ICE].
With all due respect, I don't really think this is a question that the EV
list should - or can - answer. You know the situation a lot better than any
of us. However, we'll have lots of advice when you're ready to convert the
car! <g>
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
This has been discussed quite a bit in the past; see the archives. While
it's true there were waiting lists for EV1s and RAV4-EVs, we are talking
potential sales in the thousands, not the tens of thousands. (Whether an
automaker could make a business of that level of sales is another question
which I'm going to duck. ;-) In any case, the quantities available were so
drastically restricted that even the relatively small amount of demand
couldn't be met.
Disregarding for the moment whether the automakers should have tried to meet
even limited demand, there were multiple reasons (presented in no particular
order) for that limited demand :
Relatively few EVs were manufactured. The manufacturers did not expect
demand to materialize (or actively discouraged it; take your pick ;-). Thus
in many cases they designed the vehicles and their assembly plants for
limited-volume production. This kept the price high and profit low (usually
negative), limiting incentive for both purchaser and manufacturer.
They were advertised very little, if at all.
They were available only in very limited areas and at only a few dealers.
In many cases, dealers actively discouraged sales, ostensibly to "qualify"
purchasers, but also perhaps because they didn't understand the vehicles and
were afraid of them.
The media constantly remarked on the vehicles' limited range, and implied
that charging was difficult and/or inconvenient and/or easy to forget about.
There was a clear perception on consumers' part, not without justification,
that the vehicles were less versatile and capable than fueled vehicles that
cost appreciably less (even considering the subsidies).
New products succeed when they solve one or more limitations or problems of
earlier products. EVs solve problems - air pollution, petroleum dependency -
that are presently social rather than individual problems. These issues
were and are currently perceived by most consumers as being of little
personal importance.
Many consumers are already very cautious about new vehicle designs ("don't
buy the first model year"); add a new drive system and genuine fear takes
over. They didn't know how reliable EVs would be or how much one would cost
to repair, so they tended to avoid them as the unknown.
I'm sure there are other reasons, but these are the ones that come to mind
immediately.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 12 Nov 2005 at 11:49, Rod Hower wrote:
> I thought the list stripped attachments?
The folks at SJSU ^still^ don't have the attachment trap fixed. Under some
circumstances it can start hogging cpu cycles and dog down the system to an
unacceptable degree.
Until it's fixed, they are scanning messages for malware. Attachments will
get through; however please don't send them since we have people with very
slow connections. (This one was obviously an accident.)
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me. To
send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
well if that's what you want then try this:
http://www.shedtownusa.com/robotic_mower.shtml
Typically runs for about $1600-1800USD.
Danny Miller wrote:
Naw, that's almost pointless to make it remote controlled since you
still have to operate it. You want the Friendly Robotics Robomower.
All electric and uses a staked perimeter wire to decide where to stop
moving.
Danny
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That IS the Friendly Robotics Robomower. Toro sells one too that was
colored red.
I have an older model that I'd picked up for something more like $500
(don't recall exactly) years ago. It's a pretty cool replacement for a
gasoline engine and actually very practical for the general public,
except the initial price is hard to swallow.
Danny
Mark Coccimiglio wrote:
well if that's what you want then try this:
http://www.shedtownusa.com/robotic_mower.shtml
Typically runs for about $1600-1800USD.
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--- Begin Message ---
Hello all,
I have finally found some of the information I was soliciting for a week or two
ago. I thought I would share this with interested parties. BTW, thanks to all
that responded to my questions.
Allan
Hydrogen Vs Electric Hybrid
The Hydrogen Story
A Better Way to Get From Here to There: A Commentary on the Hydrogen Economy
and a Proposal for an Alternative Strategy
A growing number of scientists are warning that valuable time and money is
being wasted on hydrogen research-
The Hybrid Highway By David Morris, Vice President - the Institute for Local
Self-Reliance.
The Hydrogen "Illusion" By Ulf Bossel, Ph.D.
Fuel Cell Efficiency: A Reality Check by Physicist Dominic Crea.
The Physics of the Hydrogen Economy By Ulf Bossel, Ph.D.
Renewables, Not Hydrogen, Is The Answer By David Doty, Ph.D.
Twenty Hydrogen Myths: A physicist's review By Physicist Dominic Crea.
Hydrogen vehicle won't be viable soon, MIT study says
The Future of the Hydrogen Economy: Bright or Bleak?
By Ulf Bossel, Baldur Eliasson and Gordon Taylor
(Downloads a 39 page (240 KB) Adobe PDF document.)
The World Needs a Sustainable Energy Economy, not a Hydrogen Economy By Ulf
Bossel, Ph.D.
Reviewing the Hydrogen Fuel and FreedomCAR Initiatives By Dr. Joseph Romm
Former Acting Assistant Secretary of Energy and
Author, The Hype about Hydrogen (Island Press, March 2004)
(Downloads a 10 page (60 KB) Adobe PDF document.)
---------------------------------
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