EV Digest 5037
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Festiva or Metro
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: Festiva or Metro
by "Ed Koffeman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: old curtis 1221 specs ?
by Dave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: EV-100
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by Michael Hurley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by Michael Hurley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: I want to build a PWM DC motor controller (LONG)
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) getting EV stuff over from the USA
by "John Luck Home" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Festiva or Metro
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: old curtis 1221 specs ?
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: getting EV stuff over from the USA
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: old curtis 1221 specs ?
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: old curtis 1221 specs ?
by Dave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by "Chris Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: old curtis 1221 specs ?
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Hybrid motor mounting, poof goes the car
by Seth Rothenberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: old curtis 1221 specs ?
by Dave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: getting EV stuff over from the USA
by "Paul Compton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: hydrogen
by Seth Rothenberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Torque converter
by Seth Rothenberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: old curtis 1221 specs ?
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE: Torque converter
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) RE: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by "Paschke, Stephen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Are you aware that you have the slowest Datsun 1200 on that site :-P
One shot you might want to consider is posted on my web space
<http://paul-g.home.comcast.net/zombie03.JPG> I think a nice side shot
or launch shot may be better, but you are free to use that photo if you
want.
Paul "neon" G.
On Dec 29, 2005, at 8:13 AM, John Wayland wrote:
I've submitted the 1/4 mile specs for White Zombie to the following
site:
http://www.dragtimes.com/
At this opening page, under the section 'Recent Drag Racing 1/4 Mile
Times', you'll see White Zombie boldly listed as an electric car..it's
a clickable link. Upon clicking the link, you'll see the spec page for
White Zombie. It's down-right funny when you peruse the stats page, as
there are mostly 'none' lists for all the usual stuff they expect you
to have in a drag car....Pistons (none).... Sparkplugs
(none)....Camshaft (none)....Transmission (none)....you get the idea,
great fun!
I goofed and sent a very low rez thumbnail off a video clip, as the
feature photo, and it looks tacky. If any list members have a good
photo of WZ they'd like to see there instead, send it to me, and I'll
pick my favorite of what i receive and resend it to the site. You can
vote for the car for it to be a featured car at the opening page, so
let's stack the deck to get an electric car put up as the featured
car...that should get the gasser dude's attention! Matt's terrific
twin motor 240SX is also at this site, so votes for his car would be
great, too.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
John Wayland wrote:
Hello to All,
I've submitted the 1/4 mile specs for White Zombie to the following site:
http://www.dragtimes.com/
I goofed and sent a very low rez thumbnail off a video clip, as the
feature photo, and it looks tacky....
I just resubmitted the page with a temporary 'better' picture and added
a few spelling corrections. It takes 24 hours for an 'approval' when you
first submit a vehicle's page....evidently, when you do any sort of
correction, that 24 hour timer restarts, so unexpectedly, the page has
now disappeared until it is re-approved...bummer. Too bad, as the votes
were ramping up pretty quickly. I guess we'll have to wait until
tomorrow to see the page again :-(
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Dec 28, 2005, at 7:21 PM, Ed Koffeman wrote:
I have a 9" ADC in my Metro. It's right up against the side of the
engine
bay, though (bolted to it).
Was a 3 cylinder or 4 cylinder engine removed before the motor was
installed? The 4 banger models moved the transaxle over to make room
for the longer engine (different mounts, axles, shifter, and likely
more.)
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi, Andrew.
It's a 1991. I bought it already-converted.
I think it was a 3-cyl.
The 9" is a bit of overkill, since the controller at the moment is a Curtis
and at 400 Amps it doesn't really push the motor to its limits.
I only use it for autocrosses and very short trips, since it has only 10
Exide Orbitals in it.
Ed Koffeman
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Andrew Letton
> Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 9:51 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Cc: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Festiva or Metro
>
> Ed-
> Did your Metro originally have the 3-cyl engine or the 4-cyl engine?
> What year is it?
> thanks,
> Andrew
>
> Ed Koffeman wrote:
>
> >I have a 9" ADC in my Metro. It's right up against the side of the
> engine
> >bay, though (bolted to it).
> >
> >Ed Koffeman
> >
> >
> >
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> >>Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>Sent: Monday, December 26, 2005 3:36 PM
> >>To: [email protected]
> >>Subject: Festiva or Metro
> >>
> >>If you were converting a "small car" today, would you rather used a late
> >>model Ford Festiva or Geo Metro. I looked at both cars earlier today
> and
> >>I
> >>believe the Festiva to be a superior conversion candidate. But, I am
> >>interested in
> >>what others have to say, and why other people aren't choosing the
> Festiva.
> >>
> >>In my opinion, advantages of the Festiva:
> >>There is at least 2.75" more length to fit a motor which opens up a lot
> >>more
> >>options than the 8" ADC.
> >> - You could even easily fit a Warp 9" for some serious
> >>performance.
> >>Battery mounting appears to be easier, especially if you take out the
> rear
> >>seat, which is very easy
> >>Currently, you may be able to get a donor car pretty inexpensively
> >>
> >>
> >>In my opinion, disadvantages of the Festiva:
> >>No off the shelf kit, as far as I know
> >>Few examples to work from
> >>Parts availability - 5 years from now - is questionable
> >>The cars are generally older and more difficult to find in low mileage
> >>Stock brakes seem a little small - from what I could tell from the
> >>disassembled car
> >>
> >>I would like to know what others think, and why they decided to go with
> >>the
> >>Metro rather than the Festiva. I think the Festiva with the 9" motor
> and
> >>14 x
> >>12 V AGM batteries and a 1k Zilla controller locked in 2nd gear would
> make
> >>a
> >>great car. I think better than a comparable Metro which would be
> limited
> >>to a
> >>8" ADC and 12 x 12 V batteries (I've heard space issues). Anyone need
> to
> >>correct me?
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
hmm thanks Philippe. that's more than I am currently capable of right
now ...
I'm at the stage of bolting in compornents and attaching wires, with
help from SEVA memebers and other kind people like yourself on this
list.... ;^)
I'll enjoy what I have and continue to learn a while longer then.
Dave
Philippe Borges wrote:
your controller can take up to 120V, you have to modifiy the voltage divider
circuit at input which lock nominal input voltage.
thanks to Otmlar and others EV list'ers, you have schematics here:
http://cafeelectric.com/curtis/curtisschematic.pdf
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 4:48 AM
Subject: old curtis 1221 specs ?
My Honda EV came to me with an 84v pack and a Curtis 1221B-7401
controller, that I can not find the specs for. I would like to add
another battery uping the voltage to 96v but am not sure if the
controller can take it. I have been out to the Curtis website but I
think my controller is older than anything they have online. They list
the 1221B models as maxing out at 80v with only the 1209 listed as
72-120v.
my bottome line question is can this controller handle 96 volts or
should I stay at 84?
TIA,
dave
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wow, thanks a bunch John! Great to have the evlist resource. Now I know
enough to be dangerous. I'll file this for future reference. I have a
Flight Systems EV-100 external hookup schematic manual, but a schematic of
the actual control would be nice if you have one.
I got it to modulate somewhat with the bulb so I think it needs an actual
low impedance motor load like you mentioned. I haven't hooked up the 1A
bypass contactor but will once I get it in the Cushman. I have a 36V ParGo
golf cart I'll 1st try it on tonight on a lift (so it won't go through the
wall). The PMT contactor shuts off I noticed when the SCR gets stuck on so
I'll wire this in series with the motor.
It's a P2 suffix "hydraulic pump controller" board that I'm using as a
traction drive. I'm using external directional contactors tied to an IRF150
fet to the PMT 6.2V output with a 2.2k pull down resistor from the gate to
source (since it's a high side open collector drive I noticed). There is a
uSwitch on the pot which I'll connect to the F-R and engage contactor (in
series with the F-R) so the contactor will close everytime I touch the
throttle (and release like my other EV's). It says 84V max but the charger
goes up to 93V on a 72V battery pack, I hope that's OK, settles back to
around 84V quickly when off charge. You say the SCR's are standard parts,
do you know the part numbers and where to buy them incase I have a woopsee?
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: EV-100
> Hello to Mark and All,
>
> Mark Hanson wrote:
>
> >Hi,
> >I have an EV-100 SCR 24-84V control (cheap so I don't have to build one)
I'm testing and it doesn't respond like a normal Fet control on low load, It
bangs full on with a light bulb or small pm motor test load. Has anyone
tested these and do they bang full on with a light load?
> >
> >
>
> First, do you have contactors connected to this controller? If the
> answer is yes, do you have a 1A bypass contactor included as part of the
> contactor set? If you aren't familiar with this, it's a contactor that
> when the controller card is properly setup and after the controller sees
> full throttle and current is at certain levels, shorts out Rec. 1 and
> connects the motor directly to the battery. If the answer is yes, check
> to see if its contacts are stuck (welded) together. This would cause
> your described condition.
>
> Second, it's possible that the controller's large, brick-shaped SCR, Rec
> 1, is shorted. This would also do exactly what you are describing. It's
> very easy to test the device without taking it out of the controller.
> Disconnect the small white wire gate lead (small tab down low on the
> right side of the device), then unbolt the braided lead of Rec 3
> (flyback diode) from the cathode of Rec 1 (left side 13mm bolt and also
> the motor positive connection point). With no connection now at Rec 1's
> cathode, you can use a 12V battery and a car light bulb, either a backup
> light or headlight works well. Connect the negative battery to one
> terminal of the bulb, and the positive battery to the anode of Rec 1
> (this is the other 13mm bolt that wasn't connected to Rec 1's braided
> lead and is on the right side of Rec 1). Connect the cathode to the
> other terminal of the bulb....it should 'not' light up. If it does, you
> have a shorted Rec 1. If you find you indeed, have a shorted Rec 1,
> before you replace it, make sure to also test Rec 3 diode to see if it
> failed and shorted out Rec 1. If the bulb doesn't light up, then while
> you still have it connected, use a lead to momentarily connect the gate
> to the cathode (battery positive)...the bulb should light up and stay
> lit up even when you disconnect the gate lead. If this all goes as
> planned, your Rec 1 is probably good.
>
> The EV-100 requires the low impedance windings of a fairly large DC
> motor in order to operate. It's normal for it to not operate with just a
> light bulb and or a very small PM motor, but having the bulb fully light
> or the small motor run at full speed, is not normal.
>
> The first order of business in the way the circuit operates is as follows:
>
> Step 1, is for Rec 2 to fire, connecting the capacitor to battery
> negative 'through' the windings of the motor being controlled, charging
> it up to battery potential. Step 2, Rec 1 fires and drives the motor.
> Step 3, Rec 5 fires and pulls battery positive through Rec 1 (while it's
> still on and driving the motor), essentially discharging the cap.
> through a choke...then as the cap. discharges to zero and Rec 5
> automatically turns off, the back emf from the reactor choke jams the
> cap with high voltage at around 150V or so. Step 4, Rec 2 is fired as it
> dumps the cap's high voltage across Rec 1, turning it off. All of this
> can't happen, if the controller doesn't have a motor's low impedance
> windings connected to Rec 1's cathode.
>
> Other things to consider in order for the EV-100 to operate...are all
> the connection correct at TB11? TB11 is the six screw terminal input
> connector near the middle at the top of the card. You have to have the
> pot connected to terminal 1 (the other pot lead goes to battery
> negative), and battery positive to terminals 2, 3 & 4, then, even if you
> are not using forward and reverse contactors, there needs to be battery
> positive sent to TB11 terminal 5 (forward), or battery positive sent to
> TB11 terminal 6 (reverse), only one direction at a time, or it won't
> operate. You also have to make sure you sequence the voltages at TB11
> correctly, or the controller will also not operate...example, you cannot
> first give it a direction command then give it power at 2, 3 & 4...it
> will shut down, because it thinks the forklift operator has fallen off
> the seat or stepped off a deadman pedal (stand-up rider type) or that a
> brake switch came on. Also, unlike more conventional electric car mosfet
> controllers who use zero ohms as no throttle and 5 k ohms as full
> throttle, the EV-100 SCR panel does the opposite, seeing 5 k ohms as no
> throttle and zero ohms as full throttle. At zero throttle, there should
> be very close to zero volts at TB11, terminal 1, and at full throttle
> there should be 3+ volts.
>
> Lots of stuff to consider, but I hope this info helps.
>
> >Next step tonight is to try on a golf cart before I put it in a real
vehicle since I don't want to go through the wall and hit the solar panels,
drop off a cliff on the other side of the garage & into the lake.
> >
> >Thanks, Mark
> >
> >
>
> Drop me an email if you continue to have problems. There are very simple
> tests you can do to see if you indeed, have a controller problem. If you
> do have a component that is bad, they are relatively cheap, readily
> available, and super easy to install.
>
> Are you planning on hooking up a 1A bypass? If not, you should....it's
> full throttle fun!
>
> See Ya....John Wayland
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Dec 29, 2005, at 10:13 AM, John Wayland wrote:
At this opening page, under the section 'Recent Drag Racing 1/4 Mile
Times', you'll see White Zombie boldly listed as an electric car..it's
a clickable link.
Umm.... I may be being stupid or something, but I've just looked
through the site and can't find you anywhere. There's no Datsun of any
kind listed in the recent times or the last fifty times added, nor are
you listed anywhere under Datsun. Neither can I find an electric
listing anywhere.
Auf wiedersehen!
______________________________________________________
"..Um..Something strange happened to me this morning."
"Was it a dream where you see yourself standing in
sort of Sun God robes on a pyramid with a thousand
naked women screaming and throwing little pickles
at you?"
"..No."
"Why am I the only person that has that dream?"
— Real Genius
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Dec 29, 2005, at 11:20 AM, John Wayland wrote:
I just resubmitted the page with a temporary 'better' picture and
added a few spelling corrections. It takes 24 hours for an 'approval'
when you first submit a vehicle's page....evidently, when you do any
sort of correction, that 24 hour timer restarts, so unexpectedly, the
page has now disappeared until it is re-approved...bummer. Too bad, as
the votes were ramping up pretty quickly. I guess we'll have to wait
until tomorrow to see the page again :-(
That answers it, then.
Auf wiedersehen!
______________________________________________________
"..Um..Something strange happened to me this morning."
"Was it a dream where you see yourself standing in
sort of Sun God robes on a pyramid with a thousand
naked women screaming and throwing little pickles
at you?"
"..No."
"Why am I the only person that has that dream?"
— Real Genius
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
hobbyists can build working motor controller easy no problem with that.
problems are coming when you want it to be a smart and powerfull controller
:^)
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: I want to build a PWM DC motor controller (LONG)
> > 1. It has been stated that hobbyists should not attempt motor
controller
> > building. However, it is OK for an engineer to do this.
>
> Actually, I believe what most people have been saying is that a hobbiest
> should not attempt to build a controller with the sole intention of saving
> money.
> It's entirely possible for hobbiest to build controllers, and many of them
> have (succesffuly too). However, very few have managed it for less money
> than buying a new controller.
>
> FWIW I know Otmar and I believe Rich (two of the finest motor controller
> builders around) started out as Hobbiests.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I wonder if any list member over on the other side might know the best
method (read cheapest) to get a heavy item shipped to the UK from New
Hampshire. It weighs about 150lbs.
Thanks
John
www.bedfordev.flyer.co.uk
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ed, do you have a picture of the engine bay? I have a 3-cyl. Metro, and by
my measurements, the 9-inch motor wouldn't fit, so I went with the 8-incher.
I'd like to see how the 9-inch motor is mounted in yours.
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ed Koffeman
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 10:28 AM
To: [email protected]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Festiva or Metro
Hi, Andrew.
It's a 1991. I bought it already-converted.
I think it was a 3-cyl.
The 9" is a bit of overkill, since the controller at the moment is a Curtis
and at 400 Amps it doesn't really push the motor to its limits.
I only use it for autocrosses and very short trips, since it has only 10
Exide Orbitals in it.
Ed Koffeman
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Andrew Letton
> Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 9:51 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Cc: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Festiva or Metro
>
> Ed-
> Did your Metro originally have the 3-cyl engine or the 4-cyl engine?
> What year is it?
> thanks,
> Andrew
>
> Ed Koffeman wrote:
>
> >I have a 9" ADC in my Metro. It's right up against the side of the
> engine
> >bay, though (bolted to it).
> >
> >Ed Koffeman
> >
> >
> >
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> >>Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>Sent: Monday, December 26, 2005 3:36 PM
> >>To: [email protected]
> >>Subject: Festiva or Metro
> >>
> >>If you were converting a "small car" today, would you rather used a late
> >>model Ford Festiva or Geo Metro. I looked at both cars earlier today
> and
> >>I
> >>believe the Festiva to be a superior conversion candidate. But, I am
> >>interested in
> >>what others have to say, and why other people aren't choosing the
> Festiva.
> >>
> >>In my opinion, advantages of the Festiva:
> >>There is at least 2.75" more length to fit a motor which opens up a lot
> >>more
> >>options than the 8" ADC.
> >> - You could even easily fit a Warp 9" for some serious
> >>performance.
> >>Battery mounting appears to be easier, especially if you take out the
> rear
> >>seat, which is very easy
> >>Currently, you may be able to get a donor car pretty inexpensively
> >>
> >>
> >>In my opinion, disadvantages of the Festiva:
> >>No off the shelf kit, as far as I know
> >>Few examples to work from
> >>Parts availability - 5 years from now - is questionable
> >>The cars are generally older and more difficult to find in low mileage
> >>Stock brakes seem a little small - from what I could tell from the
> >>disassembled car
> >>
> >>I would like to know what others think, and why they decided to go with
> >>the
> >>Metro rather than the Festiva. I think the Festiva with the 9" motor
> and
> >>14 x
> >>12 V AGM batteries and a 1k Zilla controller locked in 2nd gear would
> make
> >>a
> >>great car. I think better than a comparable Metro which would be
> limited
> >>to a
> >>8" ADC and 12 x 12 V batteries (I've heard space issues). Anyone need
> to
> >>correct me?
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John, I think this is a fantastic way to increase awareness of EV drag
racing and EVs in general. Having people go there from the list and other
places and vote for EVs will also increase awareness. Way to go John! It is
still obvious to me why you won the prestigious Rannberg Cup award for 2005.
Keep on hammerin them in 2006.
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 8:13 AM
Subject: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
Hello to All,
I've submitted the 1/4 mile specs for White Zombie to the following site:
http://www.dragtimes.com/
At this opening page, under the section 'Recent Drag Racing 1/4 Mile
Times', you'll see White Zombie boldly listed as an electric car..it's a
clickable link. Upon clicking the link, you'll see the spec page for White
Zombie. It's down-right funny when you peruse the stats page, as there are
mostly 'none' lists for all the usual stuff they expect you to have in a
drag car....Pistons (none).... Sparkplugs (none)....Camshaft
(none)....Transmission (none)....you get the idea, great fun!
I goofed and sent a very low rez thumbnail off a video clip, as the
feature photo, and it looks tacky. If any list members have a good photo
of WZ they'd like to see there instead, send it to me, and I'll pick my
favorite of what i receive and resend it to the site. You can vote for the
car for it to be a featured car at the opening page, so let's stack the
deck to get an electric car put up as the featured car...that should get
the gasser dude's attention! Matt's terrific twin motor 240SX is also at
this site, so votes for his car would be great, too.
See Ya.....John Wayland
--
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Dec 29, 2005, at 9:41 AM, Dave wrote:
hmm thanks Philippe. that's more than I am currently capable of right
now ...
I'm at the stage of bolting in compornents and attaching wires, with
help from SEVA memebers and other kind people like yourself on this
list.... ;^)
I'll enjoy what I have and continue to learn a while longer then.
Dave
Philippe Borges wrote:
your controller can take up to 120V, you have to modifiy the voltage
divider
circuit at input which lock nominal input voltage.
I'm sitting here looking at the Curtis PCM data sheet for 1209B and
1221B controllers. The electrical specifications clearly indicate that
your controller (1221B-7401) can operate from 72 to 120 volts with no
mention of alterations required. The 1221B-7401 controller has an under
voltage cutback of 45 volts and drops 0.5 volts at 100A. I run a Curtis
1221B-7403 (same as a -7401 except for no high pot disable) at 120
volts in my EV Buggy.
Looking in my Curtis PCM Manual for the 1209B, 1221B, 1221C, and 1231C
I find no mention in the 40+ pages of any changes needed to any of
their controllers to operate at any voltage within their ratings. This
book doesn't specifically cover the 1221B-7401 controller because by
that time it had already been replaced with the 1221C-7401 Curtis
squealing controller.
I'd say go ahead and add batteries, provided you do not exceed 120
volts (though the 1221B-7401 controllers have been successfully
operated at as high as 132 volts.)
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John, when I had to have over 450 pounds of Lithium batteries shipped from
Germany to Utah, I used Schenker (www.schenker.com). The entire shipping
cost was less than $500. I went to the Schenker web site, and they appear
to have operations in the UK.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of John Luck Home
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 11:13 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: getting EV stuff over from the USA
I wonder if any list member over on the other side might know the best
method (read cheapest) to get a heavy item shipped to the UK from New
Hampshire. It weighs about 150lbs.
Thanks
John
www.bedfordev.flyer.co.uk
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Paul G. wrote:
Are you aware that you have the slowest Datsun 1200 on that site :-P
Yes! How 'bout that 9 second flat 1200? It does it, not with a built V8
as one might surmise, but rather, with an 1800cc 4 banger with LOTS of
turbo boost! Incredible performance...9 seconds flat!
One shot you might want to consider is posted on my web space
<http://paul-g.home.comcast.net/zombie03.JPG> I think a nice side shot
or launch shot may be better, but you are free to use that photo if
you want.
It's a nice, clean picture, but I was hoping for a more aggressive
launch, burnout shot, or at least a nice side view shot. I'm tired of
the same old photos from the years before, and want a fresher, more
updated shot. Unfortunately, most of our drag racing this past year was
in the dark, so there's not a lot of good, clear daytime shots. The
videos we've got are great, but the stills taken from them are low rez.
I've got a few digital pics a took from Woodburn '05, but I really don't
think any are very good as far as 'excitement factor'.
I saw an awful lot of EVers at this past Woodburn with digital cameras,
many were snapping shots of the car. Come on, anyone else get a good
shot of it?
See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 12/29/05, Dave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> My Honda EV came to me with an 84v pack and a Curtis 1221B-7401
> controller, that I can not find the specs for. I would like to add
> another battery uping the voltage to 96v but am not sure if the
> controller can take it. I have been out to the Curtis website but I
> think my controller is older than anything they have online. They list
> the 1221B models as maxing out at 80v with only the 1209 listed as 72-120v.
I've run that controller on 120V for many years. It lives.. Good luck!
PS I emailled Curtis a couple of years ago and they sent me the
manual. I just had a look but can't find it. I'm sure they'll oblige
again if you ask though.
Regards
Evan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Evan and Paul G,
thanks much this is what I wanted to hear!
I was hesitant because I couldn't find my exact model on the Curtis
website. I take it what you both are looking at is a hardcopy print??
I did email Curtis a coupla years ago but never heard back. I'll try
again maybe this time I won't mention that I 'm not the original owner.
:^)
thanks again guys,
dave
Evan Tuer wrote:
On 12/29/05, Dave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
My Honda EV came to me with an 84v pack and a Curtis 1221B-7401
controller, that I can not find the specs for. I would like to add
another battery uping the voltage to 96v but am not sure if the
controller can take it. I have been out to the Curtis website but I
think my controller is older than anything they have online. They list
the 1221B models as maxing out at 80v with only the 1209 listed as 72-120v.
I've run that controller on 120V for many years. It lives.. Good luck!
PS I emailled Curtis a couple of years ago and they sent me the
manual. I just had a look but can't find it. I'm sure they'll oblige
again if you ask though.
Regards
Evan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
As I recall, I have a pic or two taken of the Zombie at the 2004 EAA
Chapters Conference in Vancouver, a side shot against the skyline of one
of the most beautiful cities in north America. Not quite as exciting as
being lined up at the tree though. Anyway, I'll dig for it tonight.
What might be cool is a photoshopped montage, mainly of the car from the
side or whatever, but with smaller peripheral images blended in, maybe of
a burnout closeup or a hard launch. Or the inside of the engine bay or of
the battery pack -- those being the most visually shocking parts of the
car. The peripheral images wouldn't do much good in the thumbnail, but in
a closeup it might be a good way of packing together what the car's all
about, and driving home that it's not only NOT a typical car, but also an
example of clean, skilled fabrication craftsmanship on the inside. Just a
thought.
--chris
On Thu, December 29, 2005 12:53 pm, John Wayland said:
> It's a nice, clean picture, but I was hoping for a more aggressive
> launch, burnout shot, or at least a nice side view shot. I'm tired of
> the same old photos from the years before, and want a fresher, more
> updated shot. Unfortunately, most of our drag racing this past year was
> in the dark, so there's not a lot of good, clear daytime shots. The
> videos we've got are great, but the stills taken from them are low rez.
> I've got a few digital pics a took from Woodburn '05, but I really don't
> think any are very good as far as 'excitement factor'.
>
> I saw an awful lot of EVers at this past Woodburn with digital cameras,
> many were snapping shots of the car. Come on, anyone else get a good
> shot of it?
>
> See Ya.....John Wayland
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to Dave and All,
Dave wrote:
....a Curtis 1221B-7401 controller, that I can not find the specs for.
I would like to add another battery uping the voltage to 96v but am
not sure if the controller can take it.....my bottom line question is,
can this controller handle 96 volts or should I stay at 84?
Ah yes, the 'good' Curtis that didn't make the offending squeal! I used
this exact model in Blue Meanie at 132V for several years with no
problems at all...very reliable, and dead silent operation.
After the 132V, 400 amp Curtis combo, came the 144V, 500 amp Auburn
combo, then the 156V, 600 amp Auburn combo, then the 156V, 1200 amp DCP
Raptor combo, and finally the current 156v, 1000 amp Zilla combo
destined to be a higher volt setup.
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> That happened on my s**y -Car too many moons ago, a lug popped off arcing
> and setting the seat & wire harness on fire,
As I am planning my conversion (very abstractly),
I was thinking about routing these cables and the
danger in a crash.
Someone mentioned using outdoor electrical conduit
(thick plastic/rubber?), and I was wondering, why plastic?
In an accident, I think metal conduit would survive better.
The drawback may be that you can't really ground it...so
if there was a short, say red wire onto EMT...you would
have a dangerous situation.
Of course, this won't keep lugs on, but it will protect
wires and may encourage me to put lugs under the hood...
BTW, do people have schematics in strategic spots on their cars
(imagine a sticker: FIRE PERSONNEL: Schematic inside trunk lid)
(My neighbor is a Fire chief, I could ask him what would help :-)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
thanks for the roadmap John! ;^)
A path I may or may not follow!...
but definetely will add a batt or two.
thanks again all for the encouraging confirmation regarding my
controller's until now unknown capabilities...
dave
John Wayland wrote:
Hello to Dave and All,
Dave wrote:
....a Curtis 1221B-7401 controller, that I can not find the specs
for. I would like to add another battery uping the voltage to 96v but
am not sure if the controller can take it.....my bottom line question
is, can this controller handle 96 volts or should I stay at 84?
Ah yes, the 'good' Curtis that didn't make the offending squeal! I
used this exact model in Blue Meanie at 132V for several years with no
problems at all...very reliable, and dead silent operation.
After the 132V, 400 amp Curtis combo, came the 144V, 500 amp Auburn
combo, then the 156V, 600 amp Auburn combo, then the 156V, 1200 amp
DCP Raptor combo, and finally the current 156v, 1000 amp Zilla combo
destined to be a higher volt setup.
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you can get someone to do the export paperwork, then airfreight it. I had
a motor about that weight shipped for about $250. If you go via someine like
UPS, you'll pay another $300+ for them to handle the paperwork.
Paul Compton
www.sciroccoev.co.uk
www.morini-mania.co.uk
www.compton.vispa.com/the_named
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Luck Home" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 6:13 PM
Subject: getting EV stuff over from the USA
I wonder if any list member over on the other side might know the best
method (read cheapest) to get a heavy item shipped to the UK from New
Hampshire. It weighs about 150lbs.
Thanks
John
www.bedfordev.flyer.co.uk
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> http://www.euronext.com/news/companypressrelease/0,5772,1700631_11894_718583260,00.html
>
And in the US?
I get emails that I should tell my senators to support Alaskan oil refineries.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Has anyone seen a good writeup on using an automatic
without the torque converter?
I heard a whisper that my father's Prius arrives
in the end of January....and then I hope to get
the 1996 Saturn...I would love to be "ready to run with it"...
An Internet parts search found manual
transmissions from $150 to $450 for this car...?!
It might be worth $150 to save the effort,
it might not be worth $450.
(I probably do have a real mechanic on my team :-)
(Or just trade it for a {civic|metro|festiva} with a stick? :-)
(Thanks for your patience :-)
Seth
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was looking up the specs of the 35 mosfets that are in the Curtis
controllers. The IRF640 MOSFETS are rated at 18 amps at up to 200 volts
each. Put all those in parallel and it looks like it would do 200 volts at
623 amps max. I know you want breathing room for safety reasons but why 80
volts and 223 amps? (Curtis rates the box for 400 amps and 120V)
-----Original Message-----
From: John Wayland [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 3:16 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: old curtis 1221 specs ?
Hello to Dave and All,
Dave wrote:
> ....a Curtis 1221B-7401 controller, that I can not find the specs for.
> I would like to add another battery uping the voltage to 96v but am
> not sure if the controller can take it.....my bottom line question is,
> can this controller handle 96 volts or should I stay at 84?
Ah yes, the 'good' Curtis that didn't make the offending squeal! I used
this exact model in Blue Meanie at 132V for several years with no
problems at all...very reliable, and dead silent operation.
After the 132V, 400 amp Curtis combo, came the 144V, 500 amp Auburn
combo, then the 156V, 600 amp Auburn combo, then the 156V, 1200 amp DCP
Raptor combo, and finally the current 156v, 1000 amp Zilla combo
destined to be a higher volt setup.
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would go with a stick. SUPER Easier. Making due with the automatic would
be a pain to engineer a fix plus an electrical pump would have to run all
the time to get the fluid moving costing you range.
-----Original Message-----
From: Seth Rothenberg [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 3:49 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Torque converter
Has anyone seen a good writeup on using an automatic
without the torque converter?
I heard a whisper that my father's Prius arrives
in the end of January....and then I hope to get
the 1996 Saturn...I would love to be "ready to run with it"...
An Internet parts search found manual
transmissions from $150 to $450 for this car...?!
It might be worth $150 to save the effort,
it might not be worth $450.
(I probably do have a real mechanic on my team :-)
(Or just trade it for a {civic|metro|festiva} with a stick? :-)
(Thanks for your patience :-)
Seth
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How about a bmp movie of a launch. Most sites asking for a picture will
allow those.
> Stephen Paschke
> Senior Consultant
> Keane, Inc.
> Office 303-607-2993
> Cell 303-204-9280
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Chris Robison
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 1:05 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
As I recall, I have a pic or two taken of the Zombie at the 2004 EAA
Chapters Conference in Vancouver, a side shot against the skyline of one
of the most beautiful cities in north America. Not quite as exciting as
being lined up at the tree though. Anyway, I'll dig for it tonight.
What might be cool is a photoshopped montage, mainly of the car from the
side or whatever, but with smaller peripheral images blended in, maybe
of
a burnout closeup or a hard launch. Or the inside of the engine bay or
of
the battery pack -- those being the most visually shocking parts of the
car. The peripheral images wouldn't do much good in the thumbnail, but
in
a closeup it might be a good way of packing together what the car's all
about, and driving home that it's not only NOT a typical car, but also
an
example of clean, skilled fabrication craftsmanship on the inside. Just
a
thought.
--chris
On Thu, December 29, 2005 12:53 pm, John Wayland said:
> It's a nice, clean picture, but I was hoping for a more aggressive
> launch, burnout shot, or at least a nice side view shot. I'm tired of
> the same old photos from the years before, and want a fresher, more
> updated shot. Unfortunately, most of our drag racing this past year
was
> in the dark, so there's not a lot of good, clear daytime shots. The
> videos we've got are great, but the stills taken from them are low
rez.
> I've got a few digital pics a took from Woodburn '05, but I really
don't
> think any are very good as far as 'excitement factor'.
>
> I saw an awful lot of EVers at this past Woodburn with digital
cameras,
> many were snapping shots of the car. Come on, anyone else get a good
> shot of it?
>
> See Ya.....John Wayland
>
>
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