EV Digest 5057
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Clutch for Mitsubishi PU
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) battery advice. "charge-it" additive
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: AIR Lab EWS (was Re: battery monitor suggestions)
by Edward Ang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Interpoles was Reversing a Siamese motor
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: If I build it, will it perform? Or, do I need to go with "more
power"
by Tim <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Otmars new home
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: AIR Lab EWS (was Re: battery monitor suggestions)
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Interpoles was Reversing a Siamese motor
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
9) Re: battery monitor suggestions
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Otmars new home
by russco <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: AIR Lab EWS (was Re: battery monitor suggestions)
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: battery advice. "charge-it" additive
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: AIR Lab EWS (was Re: battery monitor suggestions)
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: AIR Lab EWS (was Re: battery monitor suggestions)
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Interpoles was Reverseing a siamese motor
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Otmars new home
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: battery advice. "charge-it" additive
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: Electric Indy Racer on eBay
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: Electric Indy Racer on eBay
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) "Spa Hose" (was Re: Hybrid motor mounting, poof goes the car)
by Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: I want to build a PWM DC motor controller
by Stefan Peters <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Electric Indy Racer on eBay
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
On Jan 4, 2006, at 6:12 AM, STEVE CLUNN wrote:
I wonder if they would make a fly wheel just for us ev'ers , with a 1
1/8 taper lock hub . They could corner the market with that. getting
ready for the next big wave of ev'ers . .
I think that's what Gadget is trying to do.
<http://leftcoastconversions.com/gpage.html>
Steve Clunn
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Okay, so 2 oz. per battery, and you have 3 cells. I
have four. Have ordered the product; have not rec'd
instructions, but I'll be looking for ml per cell that
I have to add, not (backwards) ounces! (;-p
A related issue is that I supposed I could add the
solvent to the cells which are showing low SG, and
thus, could be presumed to be more sulfated than
others. Doesn't this make sense? And wait to add it
to the others until a year or more down the road when
they too, have sulfation issues?
Thanks,
--- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Bath<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To:
> [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 1:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Still needing prof. battery advice.
> charging the lowest
>
>
>
> Okay so
> 1) What model Wal-Mart charger are you using to
> get
> the stragglers up? I have a Schauer charger that
> turns off the moment I hook it to an 8V battery.
> But
> it's only good for 6A.
> 2) Are you charging the stragglers _while_ the
> others
> are on a charge (ie, in parallel?) so that the
> straggler "sees" 12V while the rest see 183V?
> Thanks,
>
> Hello Bob,
>
> The charger I'm using is a Schumacher Model
> WM-1000A. It is a Smart charger than can charge at
> 6 or 12 volt at 40 amp, 15 amp and 2 amp. It has
> settings for a Regular battery, deep cell, AGM or
> GEL.
>
> It has a digital voltage indicator that also shows
> percentage of charge.
>
> You can used this unit as a tester to find the
> highest and lowest battery voltage. I find it is
> best to drive the EV until your are down to about 75
> percent so you has some room for charging the
> separate batteries.
>
> First find the battery with the highest voltage
> and put on a short charge on it which will indicated
> the charger voltage which will be higher than the
> standing battery voltage. Then used this charger
> voltage as a reference for all the other batteries
> you bring up to that reference voltage.
>
> If I have a battery that is only 0.04 voltage
> difference than the highest battery, it will take
> less than a minute to bring it up. So you will have
> to be alert to switch the charger off. There is no
> power switch on these chargers, you have to pull the
> wall plug anyway first, before installing the DC
> charger clips on to the battery. I am going to
> install a switch on the top portion of this charger
> which will be in the cable storage compartment.
>
> Before I had this charger, I had a standard 12
> volt charger of which I could charge the 6 volt
> batteries, which the amperes would be double and I
> had to be very quick to shut it down. I had to used
> a separate digital volt meter to monitor the
> voltage.
>
> If you get one of these chargers that have only 6
> and 12 volt rating, I would first test it out on
> your 8 volt batteries to see if it will work. If
> not, than take it back. I think Schumacher makes a 6
> - 8 - 12 volt battery charger that you may have to
> special order. I always test out anything to see
> if it will work.
>
> Roland
>
>
> --- Roland Wiench
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
>
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Thomas
>
Peterson<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
> > To:
> >
>
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
>
> > Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 10:54 AM
> > Subject: Still needing prof. battery advice.
> > Additives
> >
> >
> > <
> >
> > Hello Tom,
> >
> > The Battery Additive - "Charge It" in one
> gallon
> > by JC Whitney is Item No. SV133723. Is on page
> 187
> > In there winter catalog No. 705F-12. Phone No:
> > 1-800-529-4486.
> >
> > Roland
> >
> > The reason may, that I been adding a battery
> > additive which you can get
> > by the gallons from JC Whitney. I add this
> > additive when the batteries
> > where new and about every 4 years. It
> dissolves
> > sulfation and prevent
> > sulfation formation.
> >
> > Another reason, which I was told by my battery
> > company if you want a long
> > battery life, is not to discharge the
> batteries
> > below 80%!!! and never
> > charge it above 95% every day, except about
> once a
> > month to 100% for equalization.
> >
> >
> > I normally charge the battery between 75 to
> 80%
> > because my driving range
> > is very short. It takes about 4 days of
> driving
> > to get down to 75%.
> >
> > HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL
> >
> > I bought a gallon of "Charge it" five years
> ago
> > and put two ounces in each of my
> > T-105's in my Citicar. I used the Lester plus
> > intermittent charges with two
> > K-Mart auto bat tree chargers and I used a
> multi
> > meter to read the voltage of
> > each bat tree.
> >
> > Do you have the item number for the gallon of
> > "Charge it" at JC Whitney?
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
>
>
> '92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD
> available)!
>
>
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html<http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html>
> ____
> __/__|__\ __
> =D-------/ - - \
> 'O'-----'O'-'
> Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe
> came out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any
> gas for your kids?
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year.
>
>
http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/<http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/>
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________
Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about.
Just $16.99/mo. or less.
dsl.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Myles Twete wrote:
> > If making it easy for a human to see the set of
> battery voltages is the
> > issue, I like the simple,low cost LED dashboard
> array approach mentioned
> > sometime ago by someone (Lee Hart?).
> >
> *nod* I use it pretty heavily on the Elec-trak. Each
> bank of 6 volts
> worth of NiCDs have monitors on them. Which means I
> can spot a low
> battery out of the corner of my eye while working
> with the tractor.
>
> The big problem is isolation: All 36 volts of the
> batteries are present
> at the LEDs. Expand that up to 300 volts, and you
> have a lot of power in
> the cabin.
>
> If Ed's solution doesn't require high voltage in the
> cabin and a min of
> wires going to the device (<25 say) I'll buy a 50
> battery monitor *now*
> for between $500 and $1,000. Make it in a little
> 5*10 grid or better yet
> a grid matching the Prizm's battery layout.
>
> Chris
Well, no high voltage in the cabin. They are
optically isolated.
In reality, only one wire needs to pull from each
battery because the optically isolation interface
could share the vehicle chassis as a common ground.
50 for $1,000 means $20 each. This would be a
problem. Only a volume into the 100 thousands could
bring the price to this level.
Ed Ang
AIR Lab Corp.
>
>
__________________________________________
Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about.
Just $16.99/mo. or less.
dsl.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Jan 3, 2006, at 11:20 PM, Otmar wrote:
Regen with interpoles is a big unknown in my mind. I've determined
that negative brush advance is not enough to avoid serious arcing in
regen on ADC motors. (despite what people would like to belive),
Well, darn. Why? What feature of the ADC motor makes negative brush
advance (brush retarding {is a brush retard a stupid Fuller salesman?})
not feasible? Can Jim fix it?
and we've run a SepEx Zilla on a SepEx 9" ADC with not much benefit.
The one test that I would still like to do is run a interpoled motor
with regen at 144V+.
Now that I'm relatively close to you here in Oregon I can see that
we'll need to be running some experiments!
Somewhere here I have camera and equipment for watching the
commutation while driving, and the regen adaptor for the Zilla is
hanging on the wall... We're just needing a interpoled car to try it
on. Something with a clutch, shifting gears and 144 to 192V would
probably be ideal to start.
Darn again. Except for the motor (ADC 8 incher with adjustable brush
ring, courtesy Jim), and the fact that it's nowhere near finished, that
sounds like my car, located in Bend just down the road from Jim. I
guess I'd better get my Ghia running so I can play with you guys, eh?
If the car ever moves under its own power, then at least it might serve
as a control to the interpole vehicle. We can try comparisons at
various advance settings very easily with Jim's slick ABR setup.
Let me know if you find a test mule. :)
Actually, Jonathan Dodge's Porsche 914 has a Kostov motor with
interpoles, and the right voltage, and a clutch and transmission. He
just replaced the last item recently and it has a new set of batteries
as well. Plus, Otmar should be familiar with the performance
characteristics :) It's possible that Jonathan could be induced to
help. He's not on the list any more but I will forward this to him.
Jonathan lives in Bend, too.
I've been musing over ways to mechanically vary the brush timing on my
own motor in concert with the accelerator pedal. Perhaps if I can get
this working we can compare it to an interpole system.
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/
The Zilla factory has moved to Corvallis Oregon.
Now accepting applications for employment. No, I have not yet written
the job description! It's doing everything except engineering. Will
train the right person.
No sales tax! :)
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Mark,
Have you ever compared your max. ranges under these 2
conditions...keeping the route, wind, and outside temperature the same
with a mix of city & highway miles...say 50/50 and keep the braking
pattern the same:
#1) Drive using all gears while applying maximum acceleration in each
gear up to each posted speed limit. What would be your max range = X miles.
#2) Leave in the one gear which allows for you to attain the same top
driving speed as above, using the same route as above and apply maximum
acceleration up to each posted speed limit. What would be your max
range = X miles.
It would be interesting to compare the driving experiences and range
performances between these two tests...one using the torque
multiplication of the transmission and the other, not.
My bet is that by shifting the transmission your range will be much
higher and your acceleration much swifter for an overall happier experience.
Tim
P.S. Sure there are other minor factors that come into play but these
would never make up the differences between the two results.
Mark Hanson wrote:
I had an Electro Metro as you describe with 14ea 6V batts (84V). I used all
5 gears though for best performance and top speed was 65mph. About average
geo-metro type acelleratuion and I drove the freeway to GE-EV EVery day
25miles one way and charged at work (paid back $8 per month). I later
switched to 8Ver's for 112V (didn't use 5th then), same 30 mile range and
better aceleration performance but 84V was ok though and the 6Vers lasted
longer, about 14k miles vs 10k for the 8vers (and cheaper too, ie, Sams)
Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Jan 4, 2006, at 1:31 PM, russco wrote:
The RUSSCO charger operation will be relocating to North Grants Pass,
Oregon in February. Same area at the Damon Controller Company. Looks
like all the little niche EV component manufactures will be in the
Pacific North West.
Welcome to Oregon!
Do you plan to put up a web site?
Russ Kaufmann
RUSSCO Engineering
The Other PFC Charger With GFCI
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Jan 4, 2006, at 12:07 PM, Chris Robison wrote:
As I recall, John Lussmyer built a similar warning system, though its
feedback pattern wasn't as elaborate and it didn't incorporate the
charge
regulation function. (I wish I could remember where I saw that...)
<http://www.casadelgato.com/CasaDelGatoSystems/index_files/Page451.htm>
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 1/4/06 12:45:14 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< I have never run a interpoled motor in my cars.
>From what Plasma Boy reports, his interpoled
Kostov took well over 200V without flashing over.
I believe Dennis Berube is also running high
voltages on his GE's which I think have
interpoles in addition to the motorized brush
advance. (but I could be wrong on the interpoles).
>>
No interpoles in CEs motor. D Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Have you checked on how well they tolerate high input voltage if the
power is disconnected? If they're susceptible to damage that would be a
pretty significant problem, popping dozens of devices because the power
wire got unhooked. But the spec sheet does seem to imply tolerance.
Otherwise that's a pretty good idea, I didn't know they were running
that cheap for HV ones.
Danny
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
With right components it is easy to bring series connected
batteries' voltages to be monitored down to a common ground
without opto isolation at all. Use high common node op amps
is straight forward way to do it, acceptable for most
hobby users. No optos, no VCOs, can't get simpletr than that.
For example - download DS for INA117 op amp and look on
page 13 how it is done. Careful though, design is non-isolated.
There are better parts for the job though, like AD629 or LT1990.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes, I would like to have a web site set up. I don't have the
experience to do so, and will probably have one of the EAA NB members
set up a site. Problem is, even without a web site and minimal
comments on this discussion list, I can't keep up with charger
production. Ever since the gas prices went up, demand for chargers has
increased dramatically.
Russ Kaufmann
Doug Weathers wrote:
On Jan 4, 2006, at 1:31 PM, russco wrote:
The RUSSCO charger operation will be relocating to North Grants Pass,
Oregon in February. Same area at the Damon Controller Company. Looks
like all the little niche EV component manufactures will be in the
Pacific North West.
Welcome to Oregon!
Do you plan to put up a web site?
Russ Kaufmann
RUSSCO Engineering
The Other PFC Charger With GFCI
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, no high voltage in the cabin. They are
optically isolated.
*nod* I should try optoisolators. The problem though is my solution used
a single bi-color LED that would go red-off-green-yellow based on
battery voltage (10.8 red, 14.7 green, 15.6 yellow). These three magic
values give one a perfect rendition of battery status: If they are off,
you're motoring. If you see red at any time, back off on the throttle.
If they are green, that battery is charged, and if one is yellow back
off on the charging.
In a properly balanced pack they should all start to light red at the
same time under high load, coming on as the load gets lower and lower.
One light coming on 5 miles out indicates a very unhappy battery.
Likewise on charge they should all have a nice faint glow together at
the batteries hit 14 volts, then be a nice healthy green together then
(if you're equalizing) all start to change color to yellow.
It's really pretty.
In reality, only one wire needs to pull from each
battery because the optically isolation interface
could share the vehicle chassis as a common ground.
*nod* You can also just run one wire from the battery positive to each
one *if* your battery interconnects are really low resistance. On the
Elec-trak for example I found shared sense wires would give seriously
out of sync responses. So I ran two wires from each battery.
50 for $1,000 means $20 each. This would be a
problem. Only a volume into the 100 thousands could
bring the price to this level.
I might be mis-understood, I was thinking a cost of a 50 battery monitor
with all frobs to be $500-$1,000. I can build the zener circuit for
almost nothing per battery (1 LED, 2 resistors, two zeners) however the
costs start to mount when you think you need a DPDT relay at each
battery (to keep it not-energized while car is off) and a small fuse
that can clear 300 volts DC at 5,000 AIR per connection (due to that
non-isolated pain)
As normal, the devil is in the details. A really right answer would be a
pair of basic stamps, one in the pack monitoring voltage and one in the
car connected by a two wire RS232 interface. One of these days I will
build it.
Chris
Chris
Ed Ang
AIR Lab Corp.
__________________________________________
Yahoo! DSL – Something to write home about.
Just $16.99/mo. or less.
dsl.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Bob,
For deep cycle cells you add about a oz to each cell.
You have 18 each 8 volt batteries which is 72 cells. Put a oz into all the
cells. I put it into my new batteries about 4 years ago, and just added a oz
each last week.
I used a standard battery filler and test run how long it takes a oz to go into
a measuring cup. For me, if I count 1 to 5, it about right. If you are a fast
counter, than it may be 6 or if you are slow counter, than 1 to 4.
In my other car, which has a standard 1000 amp cranking 12 volt battery, I put
in about a 1/2 oz into each cell back in 1991, 1995, 2000, and then last week.
I charge it with a off board charger about two times a year. I just charge it
with my new Smart charger last week, and the voltage went way up to 16.5 volts,
meaning the resistance must have been high, so it did a sulfation and
equalization charge.
This battery is now going on 15 years. It never discharge below 80% and never
was in any temperature below 70 degrees for more than a hour. Of course this
car is now 31 years old and has only 75,000 miles on it.
I have another car that was new in 1973, and it has only 57 miles on, it stills
has the original battery in it which is a Die Hard Deep Cycle type. It has a
built in battery maintainer and it was never in a temperature below 70 degrees.
This makes the battery age to be 33 years old. I used a outboard battery
charger with a engine cranking on this one, because the engine is a racing type
high performance type, that requires a lot of cranking to start it about every
6 months.
Just add to all the cells.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Bath<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 6:01 PM
Subject: battery advice. "charge-it" additive
Okay, so 2 oz. per battery, and you have 3 cells. I
have four. Have ordered the product; have not rec'd
instructions, but I'll be looking for ml per cell that
I have to add, not (backwards) ounces! (;-p
A related issue is that I supposed I could add the
solvent to the cells which are showing low SG, and
thus, could be presumed to be more sulfated than
others. Doesn't this make sense? And wait to add it
to the others until a year or more down the road when
they too, have sulfation issues?
Thanks,
--- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Bath<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> To:
>
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
> Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 1:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Still needing prof. battery advice.
> charging the lowest
>
>
>
> Okay so
> 1) What model Wal-Mart charger are you using to
> get
> the stragglers up? I have a Schauer charger that
> turns off the moment I hook it to an 8V battery.
> But
> it's only good for 6A.
> 2) Are you charging the stragglers _while_ the
> others
> are on a charge (ie, in parallel?) so that the
> straggler "sees" 12V while the rest see 183V?
> Thanks,
>
> Hello Bob,
>
> The charger I'm using is a Schumacher Model
> WM-1000A. It is a Smart charger than can charge at
> 6 or 12 volt at 40 amp, 15 amp and 2 amp. It has
> settings for a Regular battery, deep cell, AGM or
> GEL.
>
> It has a digital voltage indicator that also shows
> percentage of charge.
>
> You can used this unit as a tester to find the
> highest and lowest battery voltage. I find it is
> best to drive the EV until your are down to about 75
> percent so you has some room for charging the
> separate batteries.
>
> First find the battery with the highest voltage
> and put on a short charge on it which will indicated
> the charger voltage which will be higher than the
> standing battery voltage. Then used this charger
> voltage as a reference for all the other batteries
> you bring up to that reference voltage.
>
> If I have a battery that is only 0.04 voltage
> difference than the highest battery, it will take
> less than a minute to bring it up. So you will have
> to be alert to switch the charger off. There is no
> power switch on these chargers, you have to pull the
> wall plug anyway first, before installing the DC
> charger clips on to the battery. I am going to
> install a switch on the top portion of this charger
> which will be in the cable storage compartment.
>
> Before I had this charger, I had a standard 12
> volt charger of which I could charge the 6 volt
> batteries, which the amperes would be double and I
> had to be very quick to shut it down. I had to used
> a separate digital volt meter to monitor the
> voltage.
>
> If you get one of these chargers that have only 6
> and 12 volt rating, I would first test it out on
> your 8 volt batteries to see if it will work. If
> not, than take it back. I think Schumacher makes a 6
> - 8 - 12 volt battery charger that you may have to
> special order. I always test out anything to see
> if it will work.
>
> Roland
>
>
> --- Roland Wiench
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>> wrote:
>
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Thomas
>
Peterson<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>>
>
> > To:
> >
>
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>>
>
> > Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 10:54 AM
> > Subject: Still needing prof. battery advice.
> > Additives
> >
> >
> > <
> >
> > Hello Tom,
> >
> > The Battery Additive - "Charge It" in one
> gallon
> > by JC Whitney is Item No. SV133723. Is on page
> 187
> > In there winter catalog No. 705F-12. Phone No:
> > 1-800-529-4486.
> >
> > Roland
> >
> > The reason may, that I been adding a battery
> > additive which you can get
> > by the gallons from JC Whitney. I add this
> > additive when the batteries
> > where new and about every 4 years. It
> dissolves
> > sulfation and prevent
> > sulfation formation.
> >
> > Another reason, which I was told by my battery
> > company if you want a long
> > battery life, is not to discharge the
> batteries
> > below 80%!!! and never
> > charge it above 95% every day, except about
> once a
> > month to 100% for equalization.
> >
> >
> > I normally charge the battery between 75 to
> 80%
> > because my driving range
> > is very short. It takes about 4 days of
> driving
> > to get down to 75%.
> >
> > HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL
> >
> > I bought a gallon of "Charge it" five years
> ago
> > and put two ounces in each of my
> > T-105's in my Citicar. I used the Lester plus
> > intermittent charges with two
> > K-Mart auto bat tree chargers and I used a
> multi
> > meter to read the voltage of
> > each bat tree.
> >
> > Do you have the item number for the gallon of
> > "Charge it" at JC Whitney?
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
>
>
> '92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD
> available)!
>
>
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html<http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html<http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html<http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html>>
> ____
> __/__|__\ __
> =D-------/ - - \
> 'O'-----'O'-'
> Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe
> came out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any
> gas for your kids?
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year.
>
>
http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/<http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/<http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/<http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/>>
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html<http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html>
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________
Yahoo! DSL - Something to write home about.
Just $16.99/mo. or less.
dsl.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Best advice, move away from the Stamp. It's a severely underperforming
and overpriced repackaging of a microcontroller. Microcontrollers
themselves are quite easy to work with.
Danny
Christopher Zach wrote:
As normal, the devil is in the details. A really right answer would be
a pair of basic stamps, one in the pack monitoring voltage and one in
the car connected by a two wire RS232 interface. One of these days I
will build it.
Chris
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I could probably do that.
Best way would be 50 wires going to a single node that collects all the
sensor data and then sends an isolated signal to a dash monitor. This
is cake. Physically separate modules is doable, but it ends up more
expensive. The PCB is not as dense and the case alone costs a few bucks
and always requires some form of machining.
In fact I can integrate it with a highly accurate amp-hr meter if you
like (you'll probably like it!).
Let me know if you're serious.
Danny
Edward Ang wrote:
If Ed's solution doesn't require high voltage in the
cabin and a min of
wires going to the device (<25 say) I'll buy a 50
battery monitor *now*
for between $500 and $1,000. Make it in a little
5*10 grid or better yet
a grid matching the Prizm's battery layout.
Chris
Well, no high voltage in the cabin. They are
optically isolated.
In reality, only one wire needs to pull from each
battery because the optically isolation interface
could share the vehicle chassis as a common ground.
50 for $1,000 means $20 each. This would be a
problem. Only a volume into the 100 thousands could
bring the price to this level.
Ed Ang
AIR Lab Corp.
__________________________________________
Yahoo! DSL - Something to write home about.
Just $16.99/mo. or less.
dsl.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Lee, All
Thank you for that understandable description. I do have some additional
questions if I might ask. Now the Allis Chalmers motor has larger interpoles
in the ¼ size to main coil range you describe. Does this produce the highest
level of self-adjustment?
The main coils are wound series, well actually all large motors I see are
field wound series. Could one re-plumb the coils to series / parallel on an
interpoled motor for a higher RPM output if low end torque was already more
than needed?
Another feature the Allis Chalmers has is the laminations and slots on the
armature body are slanted. I was told this is for a smoother rev-up. What is
the true reason they do this? I have to believe it has some value as only the
older or better-made motors have this feature. How do you think this will
serve in a racer?
You stated that the increase of bars between brushes allows for a higher
current to pass without arcing, but is there a reduction in RPMs to the point
where there is nothing gained? Better put, what is the con to adding bars to a
comm.?
Your insight has been very helpful and I appreciate your time. I too like
Chris had actually been to that site NJ linked some time back. I find that I
would rather have teeth pulled than read the dry manual stuff, hehehe. So
having someone to address not just interpoles but also how they apply to this
area is a very nice thing indeed.
Thanks again
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
---------------------------------
Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Victor, all
I hope no one took offence to the electric triangle statement. I actually
attended the OEVA meeting in November along with Id say almost 40 people.
Ive had the pleasure of meeting and working with some of the most awesome
people this year. EVer in Washington, California, Utah, and Florida are some
long distance collaborations Im involved in right now. I guess what I meant
to say was I was excited about Otmar being closer as I believe his insight will
have direct effect to improvements. Waylands input speaks for itself. In fact
Id like to get everyone together here do some BBQ and brainstorm about EVs.
Being that I have yet to complete an EV for myself having DC experts so close
is truly exciting for me. Anyway I meant no disrespect to all you wonderful
EVers who live outside the Electric Triangle, Damn it I did it again
Peace
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: There are at least 4 more "EV
people" in Portland area who are on this
list and quite a few other EVers who isn't. Otmar (and Jim), if you wish
welcome to visit OEVA meeting(s) once you'll settle down. For some
reason Portland area appears to become a cluster of EV activity...
Woodburn is 15 miles from here, PIR is 15 min driving too.
Victor
Jim Husted wrote:
> So you made it up here, HooHoo! Man your like 2 hours from me now so
> I got 4 words for you. Your shop or mine, lol. With Wayland in
> Portland we 3 form a nice
Electric triangle here in Oregon now. All I got to say is let the party
begin. 2006 just keeps getting better. Congrats on the move, let me
know once things have settled down. I'd really like for you to think
about what Otmar would like to see in a motor and we'll make it happen.
> Cya Jim Husted Hi-Torque Electric
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Photos
Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays,
whatever.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This sounds like that old "battery rejuvenator" stuff they used to sell in
the auto parts stores and discount stores 40 years ago, called VX-6. It was
a cadmium sulfate solution. It came in a little bottle maybe 10 cm tall and
cost a few bucks. It was usually dyed red.
As I understand it, somehow cadmium sulfate binds to the crystalline lead
sulfate that won't take part in the charging reaction, and precipitates it
out. (No, I don't know how this works.) This doesn't add any real capacity
to the battery, but it may temporarily reduce its internal resistance.
The usual "proof" that VX-6 worked: turn on your headlights until the
battery is dead. Now shut them off, and go pour in your VX-6. Wait a few
minutes. Now try to start your car. Presto! Look at all that new energy
the VX-6 gave your battery!
Of course - as all EVers know ;-) - a "flat" lead battery left to its own
devices for a few minutes will "regain" some charge, quite possibly enough
to start an ICE. But this "proof" sure made the stuff look good, and
gullible customers bought it.
I wouldn't put it in a good battery, but it can't hurt much in one that's
already kaputt.
One thing to be aware of, though. Even in such small quantities as this,
cadmium is nasty stuff. There is a recycling system in place for nickel
cadmium batteries, of course. However, from what I understand, the lead
battery recycling industry has no facilities for handling this kind of heavy
metal impurity. You may be (note that I say MAY be) creating a disposal
problem when you dose a lead battery with cadmium sulfate.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
On 4 Jan 2006 at 15:51, Don Cameron wrote:
> Maybe check out the "formula lightening" projects to see what transaxle they
> use.
No offense to Don, but if you try to search for this, you'll probably get
more "hits" in the EV world if you spell it correctly - "formula lightning."
"Formula lightening" returns links to African Beauty Boutique and Elite
Skin Care. ;-)
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
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--- Begin Message ---
Hmmm....
formula lightening...
whitening formula...
white zombie...
thriller video...
Michael Jackson...
it all starts to make sense now...
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David Roden
Sent: January 4, 2006 10:02 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Electric Indy Racer on eBay
On 4 Jan 2006 at 15:51, Don Cameron wrote:
> Maybe check out the "formula lightening" projects to see what
> transaxle they use.
No offense to Don, but if you try to search for this, you'll probably get
more "hits" in the EV world if you spell it correctly - "formula lightning."
"Formula lightening" returns links to African Beauty Boutique and Elite
Skin Care. ;-)
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or switch to
digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
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To send a private message, please use evadm at drmm period net.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<-- Try #2 -->
Hi,
Mike Brown wrote:
I use spa hose for routing electrical cables... I don't know of any
adapter to run the hose through sheet metal.
Lee Hart wrote:
Now wait a minute... spa hose may be expedient; easy to get, or maybe you
already have a roll of it laying about. But it isn't the right stuff for the
job. It has no electrical insulation and no flamability ratings.
If you're running electrical wires in a pipe, please use pipe (electrical
conduit) that is *meant* to carry wiring. It is specifically designed and
tested for electrical insulation safety and fire resistance. Besides, they
have all the needed adapters, unions, elbows, tees, and bulkhead connectors.
This is getting confusing; maybe the problem is that what was meant by
"spa hose" was not clearly defined?
When I first read this post I assumed that what was being discussed was
using the gray Non-metallic PVC, flexible Liquid-Tight electrical
conduit that is commonly used for carrying wiring to spas, pools, Air
conditioners, and other outdoor equipment. This is what I used to carry
all the high-voltage wiring in my Jeep from the rear to the front (i.e.
http://driveev.com/jeepev/photos/pg6pics/ftbwiring/liquidtightstrapped1.jpg
). As I've also seen other people use this in their EVs, and as it is UL
rated for electrical wiring use, I assume it is reasonable for use in
this application. Is this not the case?
Or was this thread instead discussing the use of some sort of spa tubing
meant to carry liquid being used to carry electrical wiring instead
(which definitely sounds like an inappropriate tool for the job)???
--
-Nick
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
---------------------------
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--- Begin Message ---
Just to stir the pot a bit, here is what I'm currently soldering
together/writing software for (in the prototype phase right now):
http://www.evforge.net/forum/attachments/Power%20Network%5B13%5D.jpg
This is after having a chat with Duane (BatPack creator) and applying
some "computer networking" viewpoints from my own profession. The Speed
Controller is a PIC16F877A (of Alltrax fame) based motherboard, the
Power Modules are PIC12F675 supervised "BatPacks", the batteries are
dirty-cheap used ones from Budget Batteries, the Data Bus is currently
Access.bus (could be anything, really), and the Subnet Switch will be a
supervised reversing contactor. The motor is a Prestolite MKH4002.
The idea is a BatPack-style controller setup but with per-battery power
switching and monitoring. The Subnet Switch changes the two Power
Subnets (managed strings) from series to parallel as needed. This will
allow eight voltage levels at two current limits (12/800A, 24/800A,
36/800A, 48/800A, 60/400A, 72/400A, 84/400A, 96/400A) with less silicon
(four 100A MOSFETS & bypass diodes in each power module).
Any thoughts before it gets powered up for the first time on my birthday
(27th). I will be testing each module separately and with much lower
power levels before that, of course...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
after a few beers I'm starting to see your point.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Don Cameron
Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 9:15 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Electric Indy Racer on eBay
Hmmm....
formula lightening...
whitening formula...
white zombie...
thriller video...
Michael Jackson...
it all starts to make sense now...
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David Roden
Sent: January 4, 2006 10:02 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Electric Indy Racer on eBay
On 4 Jan 2006 at 15:51, Don Cameron wrote:
> Maybe check out the "formula lightening" projects to see what
> transaxle they use.
No offense to Don, but if you try to search for this, you'll probably get
more "hits" in the EV world if you spell it correctly - "formula lightning."
"Formula lightening" returns links to African Beauty Boutique and Elite
Skin Care. ;-)
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Want to
unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or switch to
digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
To send a private message, please use evadm at drmm period net.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
--- End Message ---
