EV Digest 5096
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Abusing a MK2 regulator
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Kostov
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Vacuum assist for brakes... was Re: Page 36 in the
Harbor Freight catalog.
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: battery confusion abounds was Re: Bad floodies??
by M Bianchi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Milestone achieved but help needed
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Longevity of ceramic heater core
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Bad caps. Check your brands
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Bad floodies??
by MIKE & PAULA WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: battery confusion abounds was Re: Bad floodies??
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: power steering
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Longevity of ceramic heater core
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Page 36 in the Harbor Freight catalog.
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: Bad floodies??
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Abusing a MK2 regulator
by MIKE & PAULA WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Bad floodies??
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Longevity of ceramic heater core
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Bad floodies??
by MIKE & PAULA WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) OT - 7.2 volt NiCad Pack - Source Wanted
by Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: new "This New Car" Radio Show now on-line
by "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: OT - 7.2 volt NiCad Pack - Source Wanted
by "Ed Koffeman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Who Killed the Electric Car? Sold Out at Sundance Film Festival
by Mike Ellis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Page 36 in the Harbor Freight catalog.
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Longevity of ceramic heater core
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Milestone achieved but help needed
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) re:Vacuum assist for brakes... was Re: Page 36 in the Harbor Freight
catalog.
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE: OT - 7.2 volt NiCad Pack - Source Wanted
by "Harris, Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Battery Beach Burnout and Shirts
by "Shawn Waggoner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
It's amazing what you can leave out of a charger and still get it to sell..
Like a voltage regulator..
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike & Paula Willmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 8:54 PM
Subject: RE: Abusing a MK2 regulator
> Sound like the MK2 is just what the cheap little auto chargers are missing
> :-D
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Jeff Shanab
> Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 7:42 PM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Abusing a MK2 regulator
>
>
> I have my battery pack(exide orbitals) apart in pieces so I am chargeing
> the batteries individually with a little 10Amp automotive charger to
> keep them fresh. The first group still have the regs connected so I
> watched and made sure that the amps drop below 5 and the reg still
> limits the voltage and turns on the green LED. Cool, Done, next battery.
> I might just have to buy an extra one and mount it permenantly on the
> little charger.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Some of my own thoughts: I read that sepex motors are usually
interpoled to help handle the field/armature mismatch (compared to
series). Kostovs are known for having smaller brushes. Several series
ones have been known to fireball. Alledgedly they have cheap bearings
and insulation (but you can get new bearings and have it rewound).
Alledgedly Kostovs run cooler and are a bit more efficient than AvDC.
With a series motor you can get 3x or more current in the motor than
the batteries are dishing out (current multiplication, trades voltage
for current). With sepex you'd have motor current = battery current,
i.e. less current than series. I suspect the Kostov was designed for
lower currents and not high levels of current multiplication.
I have a Kostov myself, still not in the car yet, but I'm chipping
away. :) I'll let the world know how it goes. So far it has been 100%
reliable on 12 volts. :)
__________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 12:42 PM 1/16/2006, you wrote:
Any opinions on this approach ?
http://www.california.com/~eagle/figs/vacpump/vac.html
The GM pumps work great, but you can't find them anymore. I have a
page on them on my website at:
http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda/powrbrak.html
They haven't been made in about 20 years, so those that are left are
in sad shape. I tried ordering in a rebuilt one from Advanced Auto
Parts several years ago, when it came in it was damaged and it was
the last one in their system. I still keep an eye out for them at my
local Pick and Pull. Maybe I will stumble on a good one.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
In medio stat virtus - Virtue is in the moderate, not the extreme
position. (Horace)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
> :
> If you only take "average" care of your pack, I'd say a BMS will
> roughly double your pack's life. But, the BMS adds cost; $1000 or so.
> So, it boils down to how many packs it takes to pay for itself.
Lee then figures out the break-even point in a couple of scenarios based on
battery and BMS (Battery Management System) purchase price.
I would toss several other non-dollar costs and benefits into the mix:
The labor cost of removing the old, installing the new, etc.
... of manually running balancing charges.
The cost of unexpected down-time.
The savings of the extra range from a pack that is always almost balanced.
The ability to trouble shoot a bad battery block quickly and reliably without
even popping the hood (even while driving).
Let's say my first pack of gel-cells cost $1000. The BMS was about $3000.
By Lee's analysis, I should have gone 80k miles on that money. I went 23k.
But in 10 years I:
Replaced one block, which the BMS pointed directly to.
Drove day after day without every measuring a specific gravity or
adding water.
Could see, through the analysis software, what the batteries were doing
in detail without even removing the battery box covers.
Just leave the car plugged in when it was in the garage.
Does that make Lee's analysis flawed in some way? Absolutely not!
It's the old question of what you value for your money. I wanted a
low-maintenance, high reliablity experience, and I think I got it.
--
Mike Bianchi
Foveal Systems
973 822-2085 call to arrange Fax
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.AutoAuditorium.com
http://www.FovealMounts.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 1/16/06, Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Forwarded from the SFEVA. Please reply to Ray in Bcc.
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 19:23:33 -0800 (PST)
> From: Ray Levinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Milestone achieved but help needed.
>
> I just hit 30,000 miles on my 2000 Ranger EV NiMH last month and
> everything seemed fine. I was looking forward to my six-year anniversary of
> zero emission driving in February when the follwing happened:
>
> I was driving home from work during a storm earlier this month,and had
> lights and wipers on, going uphill. I had at least 50% range left when my
> state of charge meter droppped to zero, and the folowing indicator lights
> came on: wrench, low fuel, and power limit. The odd thing is that I was
> able to limp home another 6 or 7 miles under therse conditions with no
> serious loss of power.
It does sounds like the battery voltage dropping too low due to a
reversed cell or two. The PSA vans (nicad) do something similar. See
if you can rig up a volt meter to the pack and see what it's dropping
to when the light comes on.
Regards
Evan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sounds like a cook stove element, where do you get it?
--- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I think I got you beat. Minds been going for 20
> years since 1985. This type is a Phillips that has
> large 3/16 inch diameter wire that is coil in 1.5
> inch diameter for 6 inches long. The material looks
> like the elements in a stove top.
>
> I do not know what material this is.
>
> It has several settings from Bake to Broil, I mean
> Low, Medium Low, Medium, Medium High and High. At
> high it will roast you out.
>
> Roland
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Bath<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To:
> [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
> Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 9:50 AM
> Subject: Re: Longevity of ceramic heater core
>
>
> Mine's going on 2 winters in this rig; the last
> one
> lasted 4 yrs. and was doing fine when I sold it.
> PIcture the hot-wire element in your toaster.
> Considering we usually have to pull the dashboad
> on
> our rigs, we expect to have them last
> indefinitely!
> (;-p
>
> In 6 years of subscribing to the EVDL, I'd never
> heard
> of a post on heater core longevity, which is why I
> pulled your send down. There are no electronics
> (silicon) on it to fail, if that helps...
>
> ---
>
[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone.
> >
> > I just spent quite a bit of time dissassembling
> and
> > removing the entire car from around the original
> > heater core so I could replace it with a
> electric
> > ceramic unit.
> >
> > What's the track record with these ceramic
> cores? Do
> > they hold up well, fail occsionally or
> (hopefully
> > not) fail often?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Dana
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> '92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD
> available)!
>
>
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html<http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html>
> ____
> __/__|__\ __
> =D-------/ - - \
> 'O'-----'O'-'
> Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe
> came out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any
> gas for your kids?
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com<http://mail.yahoo.com/>
>
>
__________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Back in the mid-90's when I was fixing PCs, I saw a lot of motherboards
with the "flamin' tantalum" problem. The Tantalum capacitors (the
orange-painted bulb-shaped ones) would smoke, and then proceed to glow
cherry red. Often, the motherboard itself continued to operate (kind
of), because the current draw was still below the 5V rated amperage.
Don't remember which brand computer it was, but I wouldn't be surprised
if it were Packard Bell (remember them?) AKA The Yugo of the computing
world.
Ryan Stotts wrote:
I'm using a laptop right now..
My computer wouldn't boot(no video). Opened the case up, dried
electrolyte out of the tops of some of the capacitors.
I and my friends have been through too many motherboards, cd roms, and
power supplies over the last few years.
As you probably already know, turns out there are bad capacitors being
made. Maybe intentionally too so that products don't last forever and
have to be replaced!
Background/history:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Excellent site and message board. List of good and bad capacitor brands:
http://www.badcaps.net/
Those of you that buy and use caps, check your brands...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Your understanding is correct. That is what I meant. Notice though I stated
"volume of acid", not "volume of electrolyte". The difference between the two
being water. Although technically, the glass matt and silica compounds also
take up space and so there would be slightly less volume for the "electrolyte"
as well. But for the most part, with less acid the electrolyte is less
concentrated. Thus the term "starved electrolyte" and implications as you
understand it. :-)
Mike
> This is kinda electrochemisty because the sealed
> batteries are what they call "starved electrolyte" cells, meaning the total
> volume of acid is less. :-O
Hmm, that wasn't my understanding of starved electrolyte.
The term has been explained to me as meaning that the electrolyte
^concentration^ (SG), not the ^volume^ of electrolyte, is lower. Thus
during discharge the electrolyte loses its "potency" before the electrodes
(grids) can become overdischarged. This protects the electrodes and extends
their lives, but limits total capacity. Perhaps that's what you meant?
As for the cold argument, I can't say it doesn't, but I don't understand why
capillary action would help diffusion through a liquid. Maybe Nawaz is
listening and can speak to this claim that AGM batteries hold capacity
better in cold temperatures.
Again, I apologize for my ignorance in these matters. Shoulda taken more
physics and chemistry in college!
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
who sells the BMS?
--- M Bianchi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Lee Hart wrote:
> > :
> > If you only take "average" care of your pack, I'd
> say a BMS will
> > roughly double your pack's life. But, the BMS
> adds cost; $1000 or so.
> > So, it boils down to how many packs it takes to
> pay for itself.
>
> Lee then figures out the break-even point in a
> couple of scenarios based on
> battery and BMS (Battery Management System) purchase
> price.
>
> I would toss several other non-dollar costs and
> benefits into the mix:
> The labor cost of removing the old, installing the
> new, etc.
> ... of manually running balancing charges.
> The cost of unexpected down-time.
> The savings of the extra range from a pack that is
> always almost balanced.
> The ability to trouble shoot a bad battery block
> quickly and reliably without
> even popping the hood (even while driving).
>
> Let's say my first pack of gel-cells cost $1000.
> The BMS was about $3000.
>
> By Lee's analysis, I should have gone 80k miles on
> that money. I went 23k.
> But in 10 years I:
> Replaced one block, which the BMS pointed directly
> to.
> Drove day after day without every measuring a
> specific gravity or
> adding water.
> Could see, through the analysis software, what the
> batteries were doing
> in detail without even removing the battery box
> covers.
> Just leave the car plugged in when it was in the
> garage.
>
> Does that make Lee's analysis flawed in some way?
> Absolutely not!
> It's the old question of what you value for your
> money. I wanted a
> low-maintenance, high reliablity experience, and I
> think I got it.
>
> --
> Mike Bianchi
> Foveal Systems
>
> 973 822-2085 call to arrange Fax
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.AutoAuditorium.com
> http://www.FovealMounts.com
>
>
__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> When I was moving the EV around in the shop without any hoses connected to
> the power steering gearbox, it was very easy to turn. When I install plugs
> in the gearbox, so oil would not be shooting all other the place, it was
> hard to turn.
>
> So, I was wondering, a person could connected the hoses to a to a small
> fill tank with a air space and a fill cap that would vent off some air
> pressure, something like the power steering pump fill tank has.
I suppose you could, or you could go the easy route, like most folks, and
simply connect a hose from one side to the other.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roland Wiench wrote:
I think I got you beat. Minds been going for 20 years since 1985. This type
is a Phillips that has large 3/16 inch diameter wire that is coil in 1.5 inch
diameter for 6 inches long. The material looks like the elements in a stove top.
I do not know what material this is.
Most likely nichrome. Alternatively (but probably not) Kanthal.
Kanthal lasts quite a long time -- it's the stuff used in ceramics
kilns. I've used it (in a home-made 2000W furnace) to melt aluminum in
a steel crucible (about 1400F), and it's holding up fine. It's rated at
a much higher temperature; 3000F or more.
Nichrome is good for > 1000F.
Heating the air to 90-100 degrees is nothing for either of these
metals. Lasts forever with "cooling air" blowing over it.
It has several settings from Bake to Broil, I mean Low, Medium Low, Medium, Medium High and High. At high it will roast you out.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Bath<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 9:50 AM
Subject: Re: Longevity of ceramic heater core
Mine's going on 2 winters in this rig; the last one
lasted 4 yrs. and was doing fine when I sold it.
PIcture the hot-wire element in your toaster.
Considering we usually have to pull the dashboad on
our rigs, we expect to have them last indefinitely!
(;-p
In 6 years of subscribing to the EVDL, I'd never heard
of a post on heater core longevity, which is why I
pulled your send down. There are no electronics
(silicon) on it to fail, if that helps...
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi everyone.
>
> I just spent quite a bit of time dissassembling and
> removing the entire car from around the original
> heater core so I could replace it with a electric
> ceramic unit.
>
> What's the track record with these ceramic cores? Do
> they hold up well, fail occsionally or (hopefully
> not) fail often?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dana
>
>
>
>
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html<http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html>
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Mon, 16 Jan 2006 09:58:31 -0800, "Lawrence Rhodes"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>100 amp battery tester. 19 bucks 24v 50 amp switch. 5 bucks Vacuum pump with
>no moving parts. 15 bucks The last is used to purge airconditioning systems.
I happened to have been in the local HF store yesterday and saw these
"specials". The battery tester is a toy, probably a one use affair.
It looks like the ~8ga leads form a large part of the load resistor.
The switch is a cheap chicom knockoff of the Flaming River version. I
didn't like the fact that things rattled on the inside. I have some
of the Flaming River switches that I use on race cars. No comparison.
This HF switch MIGHT handle 50 amps but I sure would not want to try
to switch that much. I bought several of these to use as switches on
my battery discharger load bank (about 5 amp loads). They should be
OK for that purpose.
The vacuum pump is a venturi pump, requiring a significant amount of
compressed air. I have a NAPA brand one that I use for vacuum drying
where I don't want to expose a mechanical pump to the moisture. It'll
only do about 28" of mercury. Not enough to dry a refrigeration
system at ambient temperature. With several fill-and-purge cycles it
is adequate to remove air from an already-dry system before charging.
One of these pumps is handy to have around for evacuating messy
things, drying veggies and so on but it does require a large
compressor. My 5 hp industrial (18scfm) compressor can keep up but my
1.5hp Speedaire portable can't. For most things, I'd spend a little
more for their knock-off rotary vacuum pump. I bought one of those
several years ago and use it for freeze-drying. IT works OK for that
purpose, though that application requires an oil change after each
use.
While on the subject of HF, I noted in the sale catalog that just came
in that they have a 6 gallon paint pot on sale for (fuzzy memory)
about 35 bux. This pot is designed to feed paint to an automotive
spray gun.
This pot would make an excellent vacuum-pressure-impregnator (VPI) for
anyone winding or repairing coils. VPI involves pulling a vacuum on a
coil to remove all the air and moisture and then feeding in varnish or
epoxy under pressure. The pressure forces the varnish in all the
openings that were previously evacuated. I usually pull another
vacuum after introducing the varnish to explode any adhering bubbles.
I use as good a vacuum as my venturi pump will produce, followed by 40
psi of air pressure.
I've been using a large canning pressure cooker but the pressure pot
will be much more handy for several reasons. I have one on order.
VPI followed by a baking and then by a coating of high temperature
epoxy is an excellent way to waterproof coils in a motor.
VPI is also an excellent treatment to quiet noisy coils in battery
chargers, transformers, HID ballasts, welders and the like. You can
get the varnish from a motor shop (Hi Jim :-) and do the bakeout in an
old oven. NOT in you kitchen oven! Every shop has an old oven,
right?
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> On 16 Jan 2006 at 0:36, Mike & Paula Willmon wrote:
>
>> This is kinda electrochemisty because the sealed
>> batteries are what they call "starved electrolyte" cells, meaning the
>> total
>> volume of acid is less. :-O
>
> Hmm, that wasn't my understanding of starved electrolyte.
>
> The term has been explained to me as meaning that the electrolyte
> ^concentration^ (SG), not the ^volume^ of electrolyte, is lower.
Hmm, I think Mike is right here. As I understand it AGMs have less acid
volume than a similar flooded. This results in the SG dropping quicker
than on floodeds and protects the plates from over-discharge.
At least that's what how I remember what I'd read about them years ago.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thats True. I used to wonder why I murdered so many car batteries as a kid.
I had always thought charging a battery was what was best for it.
Turns out to be like overwatering a plant :-D
Mike
********************************************************************************
It's amazing what you can leave out of a charger and still get it to sell..
Like a voltage regulator..
Madman
**********************************************************************************
> Sound like the MK2 is just what the cheap little auto chargers are missing
> :-D
>Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
MIKE & PAULA WILLMON [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > This is kinda electrochemisty because the sealed
> > batteries are what they call "starved electrolyte" cells,
Problem is that the flooded traction cells we use are also described as
"starved electrolyte" ones.
I suppose that gel/AGMs might be even more starved...
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Mon, 16 Jan 2006 12:25:59 -0800, Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>Most likely nichrome. Alternatively (but probably not) Kanthal.
>
>Kanthal lasts quite a long time -- it's the stuff used in ceramics
>kilns. I've used it (in a home-made 2000W furnace) to melt aluminum in
>a steel crucible (about 1400F), and it's holding up fine. It's rated at
>a much higher temperature; 3000F or more.
>
>Nichrome is good for > 1000F.
A caution based on experience. Kanthal does not like to be used at
low temperatures, low being in the dull red range. Both Kanthal and
Nichrome survive by forming an impervious oxide coating that protects
the wire underneath from oxidization. At low temperatures, this oxide
coating is somewhat permeable. The wire slowly breaks down. Nichrome
is much better suited for low temperature work. As long as the
Kanthal becomes bright red, everything is hunky-dory.
Another warning. Kanthal will not tolerate a reducing atmosphere even
for a few minutes. Just ask me how I know :-) OK, no problem.
I was using my glass kiln to burn out the wax for some lost wax
casting. The vaporized/burned wax formed a nice reducing atmosphere
in my kiln. I wasn't aware of the Kanthal problem at the time and did
not go to the trouble of supplying ventillation. The reducing
atmosphere reduced the protective oxide coating and let atmospheric
gases get to the metal. The result was my element crumbling to a
coarse dark green 7powder. Nichrome is somewhat more resistant to
this problem but it too can be harmed.
Not really EV related but hopefully useful just the same.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The capillary action does not help diffusion, it prevents the acid
stratification from happening in the first place. Deka says they can actually
get stratification to occur in their AGM's, but only in cells much much taller
than the standard block sizes we buy. In that case when they can get it to
happen, its much harder to get them equalized again...because of the immobility
of the electrolyte particles in the glass matt. Thats why the SLA, VRRL,
Sealed, Gel, AGM (whatever) manufacturers tout their precise ability to mix
electrolye and install the matt or gel or seperator in their batteries.
Because once mixed and installed they typically maintain their concentration
uniformity very well.
I did aweful in chemistry, actually hated it. Physics on the other hand I could
understand. Something about molecular moles infesting my brain that didn't sit
well.
Mike
>
> As for the cold argument, I can't say it doesn't, but I don't
> understand why
> capillary action would help diffusion through a liquid.
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Assistant Administrator
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Seems I remember some one talking about assembled Packs of Sub-C NiCad
batteries, with tabs... Been Googling for hours, cant seem to find a
supplier. Lots of places to buy individual cells, with tabs...but would
rather buy an assembled pack.. Like the Picture Below...
( see picture at:
http://home.comcast.net/~stevenslough/NiCad7.2Pack.JPG )
This is out of one of those "Swiffer" hardwood floor vaccum/duster
thingies... And the origional Pack pre-matuely failed... it was a
Chinese pack with a 1500mAhr rating
Any one know a good source for assembled 7.2v Packs.
I could spend a few more bucks for a pack around 2 or 2.5 ahr.
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Get http://juicereceiver.sourceforge.net/ - Juice podcast receiving
software.
Then load http://www.wicn.org/programs/thisnewcar.xml into Juice to
automatically download the new shows when they are published.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of M Bianchi
> Sent: Tuesday, 17 January 2006 2:54 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: new "This New Car" Radio Show now on-line
>
>
> The first TWO episodes of "This New Car" are now on-line at
> http://www.bestrateofclimb.com/TNC
>
> The episodes are 30 minutes each and almost all meat, very
> little fat compared
> to most talk shows. Listen and see if you agree.
>
> The entire schedule of 13 weeks ...
>
> Available as MP3s ...
> #1: Pros and Cons of Hybrid Vehicles
> #2: Pros and Cons of Alternative-Energy Vehicles
>
> Coming ...
> #3 Hydrogen-combustion vehicles
> #4 Fuel-cell vehicles
> #5 Electric & plug-in vehicles
> #6 New-technology vehicles
> #7 What makes a hybrid a hybrid?
> #8 Saving fuel with computers
> #9 Detroit: Can the Motor City be hybrid-ized?
> #10 "Green" vehicles: What are they and does the average
> consumer really care?
> #11 What can we with the cars we're now driving to become cleaner?
> #12 Is government doing enough to back "green" vehicles?
> #13 Does everyone need to own a vehicle?
>
> Hear "This New Car," a special 13-week edition of The
> Business Beat, on
> WICN/90.5 FM and at WICN.org in Worcester, MA, the NPR
> affiliate serving
> Central New England. The experts for this lively,
> informative discussion on
> hybrid and alternative-fuel vehicles are Jim Dunn of the
> NASA Center for
> Technology Commercialization in Westboro, MA, Gilles Labelle
> of the Hybrid
> Center of Massachusetts at Westboro Toyota in Westboro, MA,
> and Craig Van
> Batenburg of the Automotive Career Development Center in
> Worcester, MA. "This
> New Car" is hosted by Steven Jones-D'Agostino of Best Rate
> Of Climb in
> Worcester, MA, and sponsored exclusively by Westboro Toyota.
>
> --
> Mike Bianchi
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Try www.cheapbatterypacks.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Steven Lough
> Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 4:33 PM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List RCVR
> Subject: OT - 7.2 volt NiCad Pack - Source Wanted
>
> Seems I remember some one talking about assembled Packs of Sub-C NiCad
> batteries, with tabs... Been Googling for hours, cant seem to find a
> supplier. Lots of places to buy individual cells, with tabs...but would
> rather buy an assembled pack.. Like the Picture Below...
> ( see picture at:
> http://home.comcast.net/~stevenslough/NiCad7.2Pack.JPG )
>
> This is out of one of those "Swiffer" hardwood floor vaccum/duster
> thingies... And the origional Pack pre-matuely failed... it was a
> Chinese pack with a 1500mAhr rating
>
> Any one know a good source for assembled 7.2v Packs.
> I could spend a few more bucks for a pack around 2 or 2.5 ahr.
> --
> Steven S. Lough, Pres.
> Seattle EV Association
> 6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
> Seattle, WA 98115-7230
> Day: 206 850-8535
> Eve: 206 524-1351
> e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> web: http://www.seattleeva.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does anyone know when this might be available internationally or on DVD?
-Mike
On 1/16/06, David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> All four showings sold out during presales, so I was not able to get
> a ticket online this morning. :(
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
100 amp battery tester very low duty cycle, get more than 1 and rotate
when checking a whole pack.
Vacuum pump with no moving parts, except the many CFM of air molecules
thru the venturi!
I tried a few experiments when I was playing with the brakes.
One was this venturi and one heck of a lot of air was needed and you
need it during the whole time pressing on brakes.
One was to try a 12V compressor as a vacumm pump, it worked great but
was very noisy.
My favorite was to take a regulator and set it to 14psi and made a
little o-ringed plug to go over brake actuator rod under the dash with
a little connector to the regulated 14psi. I then left open the port
where you connect the vacuum. This worked really well and the cfm usage
was low. I thouht if I had an air tank on board and a regulator then I
could just refill the tank when I recharge the bateries and use the 12V
compressor on a switch if it ever dropped below 14psi.
Finally I just got a vacuum pump system made for brakes from a
supplier. The sample is installed in my vehicle and I am still waiting
for pricing so I can offer them to this community. :-) It is quiet and
recovers ok with the little tank I made but I blew up my motor during my
first drive with the new pump installed.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: mike golub<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: Longevity of ceramic heater core
Sounds like a cook stove element, where do you get it?
I pick two of them up from the Auto Parts Store or NAPA why back in 1985. It
is under dash unit that is tuck way back, so I do not see them. One is 640
watts and the other one is 860 watts, which can run on 120 vac on commercial
power or using a transfer switch on the dash controls, which can run on a
DC-DC-DC-AC rotating alternator-inverter which puts out 13.5 to 16 volts DC and
120 VAC 60 HZ using a DC-AC Inverter from Dynamo Corp. which are made in
Seattle normally for large boats.
The defroster one is the original vehicle hot water core which gets its hot
water from a 1500 watt stainless steel heating tube that is about 18 inches
long, which are design for semi-trucks. This unit requires a constant duty
high temperature water pump, insulating holding tank with Honeywell low and
high temperature sensors, and 3 inch diameter foam insulated water feed lines
that run to the existing heating core.
One mod I had to do to the heating core duct work. In this car a 1977 El
Camino, outside cold air is brought in to temper the 220 degree water that
normally comes from a ICE. I rework the duct like you would if it was Air
condition mode, for recirculation, except I have separate switches to keep the
A/C off while I operate the Air Condition doors for heating.
For defrosting, it can defrost the windshield with a water temperature down
to 50 degrees. Do not have to run the 1000 watt this winter yet, because the
heated 80 degree air was recirculated threw these ducts.
Roland
--- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
> I think I got you beat. Minds been going for 20
> years since 1985. This type is a Phillips that has
> large 3/16 inch diameter wire that is coil in 1.5
> inch diameter for 6 inches long. The material looks
> like the elements in a stove top.
>
> I do not know what material this is.
>
> It has several settings from Bake to Broil, I mean
> Low, Medium Low, Medium, Medium High and High. At
> high it will roast you out.
>
> Roland
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Bath<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> To:
>
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
> Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 9:50 AM
> Subject: Re: Longevity of ceramic heater core
>
>
> Mine's going on 2 winters in this rig; the last
> one
> lasted 4 yrs. and was doing fine when I sold it.
> PIcture the hot-wire element in your toaster.
> Considering we usually have to pull the dashboad
> on
> our rigs, we expect to have them last
> indefinitely!
> (;-p
>
> In 6 years of subscribing to the EVDL, I'd never
> heard
> of a post on heater core longevity, which is why I
> pulled your send down. There are no electronics
> (silicon) on it to fail, if that helps...
>
> ---
>
[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone.
> >
> > I just spent quite a bit of time dissassembling
> and
> > removing the entire car from around the original
> > heater core so I could replace it with a
> electric
> > ceramic unit.
> >
> > What's the track record with these ceramic
> cores? Do
> > they hold up well, fail occsionally or
> (hopefully
> > not) fail often?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Dana
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> '92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD
> available)!
>
>
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html<http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html<http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html<http://www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html>>
> ____
> __/__|__\ __
> =D-------/ - - \
> 'O'-----'O'-'
> Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe
> came out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any
> gas for your kids?
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
>
http://mail.yahoo.com<http://mail.yahoo.com/<http://mail.yahoo.com<http://mail.yahoo.com/>>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com<http://mail.yahoo.com/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence,
Bcc stands for Blind Carbon Copy, it means that a copy is sent to the names on
the list but that nobody can see the name, hence the Blind.
So nobody can respond to Ray as we can't see the address....
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>; <[EMAIL
PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 10:51 AM
Subject: Milestone achieved but help needed
> Forwarded from the SFEVA. Please reply to Ray in Bcc.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sadly, yes. I looked for weeks in wrecking yards and online and couldn't
find this obsolete part. Excepton ebay at an infalted price, might as
well get the Bosch or ...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The cells you can get from a hobby store and they sell kits to assemble them
into packs. You could solder it up yourself. Alternately I know Polar
Battery here in Vancouver will spot weld a pack into any configuration you
like for a fee; you should be able to find someone locally that can do that.
Lawrence
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Steven Lough
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 2:33 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List RCVR
Subject: OT - 7.2 volt NiCad Pack - Source Wanted
Seems I remember some one talking about assembled Packs of Sub-C NiCad
batteries, with tabs... Been Googling for hours, cant seem to find a
supplier. Lots of places to buy individual cells, with tabs...but would
rather buy an assembled pack.. Like the Picture Below...
( see picture at:
http://home.comcast.net/~stevenslough/NiCad7.2Pack.JPG )
This is out of one of those "Swiffer" hardwood floor vaccum/duster
thingies... And the origional Pack pre-matuely failed... it was a
Chinese pack with a 1500mAhr rating
Any one know a good source for assembled 7.2v Packs.
I could spend a few more bucks for a pack around 2 or 2.5 ahr.
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Everyone,
I wanted to give everyone a quick update on the race and let everyone know
about the T-shirts for the race.
The race is coming together nicely, thanks to hard work and help of Matt
Graham and Lowell Simmons. We are on track for all of the events and look
like we should have pretty close to 15 competitors there at the races.
I would like to thank our sponsors for all of their help and support for the
event. Without them, we would not have made it this far and been able to
organize a 2 day event the first year. Please check out our sponsor's page
on the website (http://www.batterybeach.com/sponsors.html) and support the
businesses that support our sport!
The new T-shirts for the race and event will ready for this weekend. If
anyone is interested in a T-Shirt from the event, but can not attend, they
will be available for mail order. T-Shirts will be available at the track
for $20 (all sizes). The price is a little higher than we had hoped, but the
low volume of shirts for the order and the need to raise additional monies
to cover the cost of equipment and track fees has set the price there.
Please show your support and purchase a shirt!
Mail orders for the shirts can be sent to:
EV Promotions
6542 Hypoluxo Rd
Suite 101
Lake Worth, FL 33467
Mail order is $20 per shirt, plus $4 priority shipping.
(Please make checks payable to EV Promotions)
Thanks and see you at the track!
Shawn Waggoner
www.batterybeach.com
--- End Message ---
