EV Digest 5116
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) 2006 Mercury Mariner Hybrid SUV
by "Don Davidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: 2006 Mercury Mariner Hybrid SUV
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Evcort break upgrade
by "Paul Compton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: Battery Box in the back of a Pickup
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: 2006 Mercury Mariner Hybrid SUV
by Marc Geller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: 2006 Mercury Mariner Hybrid SUV
by Edward Ang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: 2006 Mercury Mariner Hybrid SUV
by "Don Davidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: chevy astro conversion?
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) 48 volt car
by "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: 12volt alternator or dc-dc convertor
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Current Eliminator Dragster News
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
12) Thinking of upgrading to a new EV?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
13) Re: 12volt alternator or dc-dc convertor
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: 2006 Mercury Mariner Hybrid SUV
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Who Killed Electric Car on Air America Radio NOW
by Marc Geller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Battery Box in the back of a Pickup
by John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Current Eliminator Dragster News
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) EV Confidential update
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Current Eliminator Dragster News
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
20) Re: Current Eliminator Dragster News
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---I just finished viewing NBC's coverage of this year's Detroit Auto Show. Highlighted was a hybrid SUV Mercury is marketing called the Mariner. What's unique about this is that its called a "Full" Hybrid and after visiting the Mariner website, what is described as a "full" hybrid is a vehicle with the capability of running only on electricity, only on the ICE or a combination of both. Yet there's no mention of it being "plug in" The website does not go into detail as to how far it might be driven "only" on electricity. Also, unfortunately, this is not a 4WD or ALLWD vehicle Any thoughts on this type of hybrid or it's capabilities? Don Davidson [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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--- Begin Message ---Don Davidson wrote: > Any thoughts on this type of hybrid or it's capabilities? The Prius for example can drive from take off up to a certain speed on only the electric motor.
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--- Begin Message ---Do you have a link to the front upgrade kit? Today the Evcort does not haveenough breaking power, so I'm trying to improve the situation.All of the Escorts had high performance versions in Europe. The original Mk3 FWD had XR3, XR3i, and RS1600 variants. The Mk4 included a 2litre turbo Cosworth in the lineup. Take a look around the forums for information.Paul Compton www.sciroccoev.co.uk www.morini-mania.co.ukwww.compton.vispa.com/the_named
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--- Begin Message ---Thats exactly wht I had planned. I was going to build a straight box between the wheelwells. The space to each side I was going build an add-on box to fill the space in front of the wheel wells. Intake up from the botom sounds like a good idea and forced into the battery compartment to maintain positive pressure on the charger box. Probably even better to just vent each separately. Mike, Anchorage, AK. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Cor van de Water Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 12:36 PM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: Battery Box in the back of a Pickup Roger wrote: > I would suggest that you locate the charger and contactors > in the box with the batteries. When the truck is off, the > contrator(s) are open and no battery voltage is present > outside of the battery box. In case you are having anything >inside< the battery box that can create a spark, make sure that you Force-Vent the box, or you will see the lid come off by its own force very soon. EVEN when you are running sealed batteries, you should have some ventilation, as high charge current can still make the batteries vent hydrogen. In fact, my recommendation would be to mount an additional box outside the battery compartment, it can be bolted right to the side or front of the battery box and the wires run into that box, but make _sure_ you seal the openings between the two with something like caulk, so the gasses don't do from the battery box to the place where you are making and breaking contacts. Some experience from Solar installations is talking here, I saw pictures of a inverter/charge controller that was wired according code with conduit to the battery box, so the sealed battery box was happily venting its fumes into the controller and no wonder that at the end of the day when the controller kicked a relay over the controller box opened itself. Safe charging! Cor van de Water Systems Architect Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925 Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130 Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743 Take your network further http://www.proxim.com -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Roger Stockton Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 10:58 AM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: Battery Box in the back of a Pickup Mike & Paula Willmon wrote: > Any body thats done a pickup and put the batteries "in" the > bed? It has been done. The advantage is that the batteries are easy to access, and it fills the box so that you are lessa ta risk of severely overloading the vehicle by filling the box with something when the vehicle is already at/over GVWR due to a full load of batteries under the box. The downside is that the vehicle will handle better and usually looks cleaner if you put the batteries under the bed between the frame rails and modify the box to tilt up for almost as easy access as if the batteries were in the box. > I'm wondering that since I'm building a box back there > if putting the charger and controller in boxes of their own > off to each side would be cleaner and/or safer than under the > hood. If I do this I can consolidate all the pack and > charging wires inside the boxes. The only high voltage that > would need to run to the front would be the motor wires and > aux power wires. Any thoughts? Locating the charger with the pack is fine, but you don't want to locate the controller there. The wires between the controller and motor should be kept as short (and stout) as possible, and this is hard to do if the motor is under the hood and the controller is behind the cab. Even with the controller up front you still have only 2 traction (high) voltage wires going up under the hood: pack +ve and -ve to the controller input. Given that you seem to want to minimise the number of high voltage wires under the hood, I would suggest that you locate the charger and contactors in the box with the batteries. When the truck is off, the contrator(s) are open and no battery voltage is present outside of the battery box. The charger needs to connect to the battery side of the contactors, so locating it near the batteries makes sense. This also keeps the AC connection to the charger out from under the hood. You may then want to have a manual service disconnect under the hood, such as an appropriate Anderson SB connector, so that you can physically unplug the battery wires from the controller before working on anything. Cheers, Roger.
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--- Begin Message --- It can't plug in, gets 27/31 mpg, and drives on electricity like the prius does - barely. And all the electricity comes from gasoline.Marc On Jan 22, 2006, at 1:54 PM, Don Davidson wrote:I just finished viewing NBC's coverage of this year's Detroit Auto Show. Highlighted was a hybrid SUV Mercury is marketing called the Mariner. What's unique about this is that its called a "Full" Hybrid and after visiting the Mariner website, what is described as a "full" hybrid is a vehicle with the capability of running only on electricity, only on the ICE or a combination of both. Yet there's no mention of it being "plug in" The website does not go into detail as to how far it might be driven "only" on electricity. Also, unfortunately, this is not a 4WD or ALLWD vehicleAny thoughts on this type of hybrid or it's capabilities? Don Davidson [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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--- Begin Message ---Don, I have an 04 Prius and I keep myself quite updated on hybrid technologies out there. As far as I know, the Mercury Mariner is just a rebadged Ford Escape hybrid. Rumors said that Ford was buying the technology from Toyota. But, Ford's story was that they spent years to develop the technology on their own, but ended up with a system that was so similar to the Prius that they would just pay Toyota the license fees to avoid any lawsuit. Toyota has not publicly say it one way or the other. In any case, Ford is paying license fees to Toyota for the technology. So, this hydrid is nothing new. Ed Ang --- Don Davidson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I just finished viewing NBC's coverage of this > year's Detroit Auto Show. Highlighted was a hybrid > SUV Mercury is marketing called the Mariner. What's > unique about this is that its called a "Full" Hybrid > and after visiting the Mariner website, what is > described as a "full" hybrid is a vehicle with the > capability of running only on electricity, only on > the ICE or a combination of both. Yet there's no > mention of it being "plug in" The website does not > go into detail as to how far it might be driven > "only" on electricity. Also, unfortunately, this is > not a 4WD or ALLWD vehicle > > Any thoughts on this type of hybrid or it's > capabilities? > > Don Davidson > [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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--- Begin Message ---Yes, I'm aware of the Prius (non-"plug in") capabilities. The ICE kicks in once the Prius reaches 15 mph and the Prius will only go a very, very short distance on batteries alone I'm hoping that this Mariner might go a bit further on batteries than the non plug in hybrids. Just curious what "full" hybrid might be in reference to ----- Original Message ----- From: Ryan Stotts<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 4:57 PM Subject: Re: 2006 Mercury Mariner Hybrid SUV Don Davidson wrote: > Any thoughts on this type of hybrid or it's capabilities? The Prius for example can drive from take off up to a certain speed on only the electric motor.
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--- Begin Message ---I think a Chevy Astro Minivan would make a fine conversion.I'm a big Astro fan. I have two Astros, an '86 and a 2000. I customized the '86 a month after I bought it new and entered it in van shows on the East Coast. It won quite a few trophies and was featured in Truckin' magazine. I bought a white one because I originally had planned to paint a mural on it but decided to go with a monochromatic paint theme with the Euro look. So I had all the black trim on the van including the door handles custom painted white to match the rest of the van. The Euro look wasn't done on vans back then so the old school vanners didn't quite accept it because I didn't emblazen it with murals and go with the fake fur and panelling look. The van does have a custom wet bar and refrigerator in it but it is very Euro looking and modern inside.The 2000 Astro I have is factory van conversion. It's a great van. I was really dissapointed when GM shut down the Astro plant in Baltimore. 2006 is the last model year for the van.What does all this have to do with EV's?Well, after 200,000 miles the transmission finally died in the '86 Astro and I've been thinking of electrifying it. Except I want to make it into an electric drag van. Art Morrison Industries has actually made rear subframes for the Astro to tub it out. So my plan is to have them build the subframe and lengthen it to accomodate a Warp 13 motor which would sit amidships behind the driver's seat. The Astro has tons of room under the floor for batteries so I was going to build racks on either side of the subframe for batteries.I still want to paint a mural on it so I was thinking of some chrome looking type dragon with lightning bolts in the sky.Chip Gribben From: lee parrish <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:44:45 AM US/Eastern To: [email protected] Subject: Re: chevy astro conversion? Thanks to Mike and Danny for their responses! You got me thinking outside the box now...as gas is still gas is still smog, etc... I reckon in the time it takes us to complete the conversion, i can do a little leg work and see if i can't create some kind of EV support group here on the island. It seems there would be enough interested people scattered about that if we all installed 240v plugs, then no one would have to be too concerned about range. The grid is already in place, why not use it? I envision something like (here's the plug, leave a few bucks in the jar, have a great day!)...and while we're waiting on the charge we can sit around an talk EVgeek with each other and work on our rigs. :o)) mahalo for the inspiration...Lee
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--- Begin Message ---What kind of car ?? I also am running 48 volts ...
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--- Begin Message ---Lee, Correct - batteries can be predicted (at least if you are paying attention) but driver does not always have control over where a battery may die. Granted, it does not happen frequently, but I have been in a traffic jam that lasted 4.5 hours before I could leave the freeway. I could not shut down the car, as it was a queue of several miles of 3 lanes emptying via a 1-lane local road with many traffic lights. Avg speed less than 2 MPH. No problem with DC/DC but a serious breakdown when I would have been there in EV with deep cycle aux battery. My Prius (not the latest model) is heated with engine heat, no electrical heater. It is noticeable when I drive electric for more than a mile while its cold, that since the waterpump has stopped, the heater cannot provide any heat, so the car will cool down. Since the temp of the engine is maintained in tights limits, the ICE will come on by itself even if I have not drained the battery to the point of needing a recharge. That will restore the heating of the interior as well. I would always go for a DC/DC because a battery needs to be replaced regularly, while (at least in theory) the DC/DC should live longer than the car, so it is a one-time thing. With constant keeping the (much smaller) battery charged, it will live much longer than the cyclic use of a deep cycle battery that is not charged while driving. But for most practical use it should be a wash, I guess. Regards, Cor van de Water Systems Architect Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925 Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130 Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743 Take your network further http://www.proxim.com -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Lee Hart Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 10:55 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: 12volt alternator or dc-dc convertor Cor van de Water wrote: > You want to get stuck on a railroad crossing (or any other > roadway crossing) because you were too cheap to install a > DC/DC converter and your 12V battery died? Yes, it could happen. Extremely unlikely, though. Batteries don't suddenly die; they gradually fade away. You'd have plenty of warning. My early EVs had no DC/DC converter or alternator, and just ran all 12v loads off the accessory battery. Given that they were 50-100 amphour batteries, and my maximum 12v load was 25 amps or less, I could drive off the accessory battery for 2-4 hours. That was a *lot* longer than my propulsion pack would last! > Look at what Toyota did with the Prius. They could have > installed an alternator - the engine normally does not > shut off for more than a few minutes. > Why then did they add a 100A 12V inverter to the motor > controller? Guess? Because their 12v system powers an electric heater, the power steering, power brakes, etc. -- Lee Hart
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--- Begin Message ---4th round loss on a .00 red lite.Other reaction times average .007.Took out the arizona state champ in the 2nd round and yesterdays $5000 winner in the 3rd round. The car was flawless.Only 1 practice pass today. Dennis Berube
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--- Begin Message ---With all the posts, sometimes its difficult to keep track of who is doing what. Some of you may remember that I have been planning to build a 92 Festiva EV running on a 7" motor with the 84 V GE EV-1 controller. i.e. the small light weight car with a forklift drivetrain. I purchased some of the parts, started designing the motor coupler, reworked the motor, upgraded the controller, etc. After a lot of back and forth, I have convinced myself (at least at this time) that I alone will not be able to complete this project with the resources I have available and the time I have allocated. The budget for the project is reasonable, and I believe it can be done within that cost target, but I alone will not be able to finish it. Therefore, I have decided to look into purchasing someone's complete / nearly complete EV project / running car. If you want to upgrade to a new (to you at least) EV and are planning on selling yours, please contact me off list and I will determine if it meets my needs and falls within my budget. I have found that a lot of people are on the fence about selling their EVs and don't advertise them, even though they would sell them if an offer was made. I'm talking about that older EV that you aren't using very much or at all. The one that no longer makes sense for your current situation, but would make a perfectly good car for someone with different criteria. I am primarily looking for a small EV, commuter car, capable of 60 MPH / 25 mile range, DC system, 8" motor, manual trans with clutch, battery pack condition can be poor as long as the price reflects it, controller and charging system need to be functional, should not need major repair, light body damage acceptable. The key is location. I am in Atlanta, GA and I don't want to transport the car more than 500 miles. That pretty much limits me to the Southeast. If you are beyond this range, I would still consider your car, but you would have to help me a little by sharing the shipping cost, or find a way that it can be economically transported from you to me. There are some great cars out there, some available right now, but I see no economically feasible way of getting any of them the 1000+ mile distance from where they are today to where I am. Also, if I do end up purchasing someone else's car, I will be putting all my parts up for sale: 7"x15" motor (Sep Ex field) GE EV-1 controller with full bypass and field weakening 5k pot box main contactors main fuse If you have any interest in the motor or controller, please contact me off list. I am willing to sell them at what I paid for them, which is a pretty good deal, and you won't have to hunt around and stay up all night bidding on e-bay (which is what I went though to get them). Steve
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--- Begin Message ---Hello to All, Jody Dewey wrote:how about running an 8 volt battery AND a 6 volt in series for your aux system? Then you could have 14 volts.Mark Grasser wrote:No, it's still not a 'perfect' solution. I know, been there, done that already. Way, way back in 1980 when I first put Blue Meanie on the road as an electric conversion, it took me about two months of miserable nighttime driving with yellow, dimming headlights, to figure out that using an unassisted 12V battery sucked. I didn't know about DC-DC converters, and they were certainly not readily available back in the stone early 80's. I studied available small deep cycle batteries, and found an 8 volt wet cell with the exact same ahr rating of the same brand's 6 volt battery. I bought the pair and had myself a 14V supply to 'sort of' mimic a gas car's 12V system with an alternator running and providing 14.2 volts of system power. Yes, the car suddenly had bright headlights and all other 12V items 'sort of' ran as intended. The problem though, was I was now packing about 70 lbs. of batteries just to have an 'OK' 12V system, and, I had to come up with a custom charger to replenish the 14V battery.I do recall, now that you mention it, that there are 14 volt batteries (7 cells) available for the hot rod drag boys that run the 1/4 mile without an alternator. This is a perfect option for you guys that don't want to do a DC to DC.More importantly though, is this 14V supply was always in a declining balance, whereas I would start off with bright lights, but each time I switched on other 12V items, you could see the headlights react and dim accordingly as each 12V item was turned on, such as the heater fan on high, or stepping on the brakes, or turning on the rear window defogger, or cranking up the sound system.....each additional current draw would sag-down the 14V battery lower and lower. In addition, after so many minutes of driving, as the battery was depleted, the voltage would continue to fall. After a half hour of driving, the headlights were pretty dismal again.This type of nighttime driving is unacceptable to me. I want the lights to be bright from start to finish, the stereo to always have the power to please, the wipers to always work as they should...I could go on. For me, a properly set up DC-DC that supplies a regulated and constant 14+ volts (and drops back to a 13.1V float when the vehicle is parked) is the only acceptable solution for an EV's 12V system.See Ya.......John Wayland
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--- Begin Message --- The "full" hybrid designation might be in response to GM's goofy excuse for a hybrid offered on a limited number of their full size pickups. Rather than provide short low speed electric drive plus regen and acceleration assist like the Prius, or regen and electric assist on acceleration like the Insight, GM's system simply added a powerful motor to start the truck instantly. It shuts off the engine at stoplights to save fuel and provides no electric drive or assist at all. They were stupid enough to call this a hybrid. It is actually more of an auto-shutoff and restart. We had a couple come through Kansas City as part of a clean fuel vehicle display last year and the high school kids looking at it gave the GM guy no end of grief about it. Of course, we had our pure electrics right across from it, as well as a Prius and an Insight. :)Thanks, Mike Chancey Ryan wrote:Yes, I'm aware of the Prius (non-"plug in") capabilities. The ICE kicks in once the Prius reaches 15 mph and the Prius will only go a very, very short distance on batteries alone I'm hoping that this Mariner might go a bit further on batteries than the non plug in hybrids. Just curious what "full" hybrid might be in reference to
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--- Begin Message --- RadioNation on Air America Radio with Laura Flanders will have DEAN DEVLIN, executive producer of "Who Killed the Elecric Car?" on during the next few hours. The show is on now (Sunday) until 10 pm Eastern/ 7pm Pacific. I suspect he won't be on till the 3rd hour.Available streaming from www.airamericaradio.com
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--- Begin Message ---On Sunday, January 22, 2006, at 01:57 PM, Roger Stockton wrote:Mike & Paula Willmon wrote:Any body thats done a pickup and put the batteries "in" the bed? I'm wondering that since I'm building a box back there if putting the charger and controller in boxes of their own off to each side would be cleaner and/or safer than under the hood. If I do this I can consolidate all the pack and charging wires inside the boxes. The only high voltage that would need to run to the front would be the motor wires and aux power wires. Any thoughts?<snip>Even with the controller up front you still have only 2 traction (high) voltage wires going up under the hood: pack +ve and -ve to thecontroller input. Given that you seem to want to minimise the number ofhigh voltage wires under the hood, I would suggest that you locate thecharger and contactors in the box with the batteries. When the truck is off, the contrator(s) are open and no battery voltage is present outside of the battery box. The charger needs to connect to the battery side ofthe contactors, so locating it near the batteries makes sense. This also keeps the AC connection to the charger out from under the hood. You may then want to have a manual service disconnect under the hood,such as an appropriate Anderson SB connector, so that you can physically unplug the battery wires from the controller before working on anything.Cheers, Roger.I've been wondering about charger placement as well for my 86 Nissan King Cab conversion.I seems there are 3 general placement locations, In the truck bed with the batteries, Engine Compartment, and passenger compartment. My charger is a PFC-30 and I now live in Western Mass where it gets fairly cold in the winter. Does this device need regular fiddling that would make a passenger compartment installation beneficial?If I make my AC to vehicle connection point in the front of the truck, are there drawbacks to running an AC line back to the charger in the bed?John O' Connorf
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--- Begin Message ---I think this is good news? I'll admit Dennis that I don't have a clue how bracket racing works. I'm guessing you jumped the gun on round 4? Any more details on the final results? I really like to hear results of the CE, but sometimes the posts are somewhat criptive for the racing ignorant like myself. I wish you the best of luck in future races, you are a true inspiration in the EV racing field and a pioneer in your field. Keep up the good work!!! --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > 4th round loss on a .00 red lite.Other reaction > times average .007.Took out > the arizona state champ in the 2nd round and > yesterdays $5000 winner in the 3rd > round. The car was flawless.Only 1 practice pass > today. Dennis Berube > >
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--- Begin Message --- It appears that was once the subtitle of EV Confidential, Who Killed the Electric Car is now the main title. I personally think Who Killed the Electric Car will generate more interest from consumers, i.e. theater patrons. Go check out the review for the movie here at Sundance: http://festival.sundance.org/filmguide/Default.aspx It is still playing until the 28th. I know the presale tickets were sold out but there is always a chance of a no show. If you live in the area it would be worth a try.Roderick Wilde-- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.21/236 - Release Date: 1/20/2006
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--- Begin Message ---In a message dated 1/22/06 5:34:55 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << Subj: Re: Current Eliminator Dragster News Date: 1/22/06 5:34:55 PM Pacific Standard Time From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Rod Hower) Sender: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-to: [email protected] To: [email protected] I think this is good news? I'll admit Dennis that I don't have a clue how bracket racing works. I'm guessing you jumped the gun on round 4? Any more details on the final results? I really like to hear results of the CE, but sometimes the posts are somewhat criptive for the racing ignorant like myself. I wish you the best of luck in future races, you are a true inspiration in the EV racing field and a pioneer in your field. Keep up the good work!!! >> Its not bad news Rod At the end of the day there is only 1 winner We hung with the best bracket gas and alki dragsters west of the mississippi river.$5000 draws a big field. As you all can see I can race a lot better than I can write.Fs were common in school on the writing.Sorry I am not a story teller! Dennis Berube
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--- Begin Message ---Congrats Dennis on racing the Ice cars. I think your one of the best in this field, not to mention good story tellers like John Wayland and the 'glass half full' writers like Jim Husted who always gives inspiration in his posts. Keep up the good work, you guys always inspire me to try a little harder in my EV work. Rod --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > In a message dated 1/22/06 5:34:55 PM Pacific > Standard Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > << Subj: Re: Current Eliminator Dragster News > Date: 1/22/06 5:34:55 PM Pacific Standard Time > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Rod Hower) > Sender: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Reply-to: [email protected] > To: [email protected] > > I think this is good news? > I'll admit Dennis that I don't have a clue how > bracket racing works. I'm guessing you jumped the > gun > on round 4? Any more details on the final results? > I really like to hear results of the CE, but > sometimes > the > posts are somewhat criptive for the racing ignorant > like myself. > I wish you the best of luck in future races, you > are a > true > inspiration in the EV racing field and a pioneer in > your field. > Keep up the good work!!! > >> > Its not bad news Rod At the end of the day there is > only 1 winner We hung > with the best bracket gas and alki dragsters west of > the mississippi river.$5000 > draws a big field. As you all can see I can race > a lot better than I can > write.Fs were common in school on the writing.Sorry > I am not a story teller! > Dennis Berube > >
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