EV Digest 5224
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: dc converter disconnect
by Bill & Nancy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Buying power at the price your willing to pay for it.
by "Ted C." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
by paul wiley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Horsepower / Torque
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
by "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
by "Hacker Joel-QA6240" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Electrathon controller selection
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
8) Portable Dyno Setup
by "Stefan T. Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Electrathon controller selection
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: dc converter disconnect
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Looking for suggestions for converting 6054 type headlights to HID
by Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) li cell testers/BMS developers
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
15) RE: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
by "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: EVLN(Indian scientists develop light-weight batteries)
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
by "Hacker Joel-QA6240" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: 94 solectria force gearbox
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Bizarre Race Machines
by "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) GE EV2000 Controller
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
by Richard Bebbington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) bizarre race machines
by "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: 94 solectria force gearbox
by "mike young" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Looking for suggestions for converting 6054 type headlights to HID
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Battery Regulator questions
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Dragtimes Vote
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: First week's impression of my conversion.
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Looking for suggestions for converting 6054 type headlights to HID
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Is it best to disconnect the dc to dc when charging the pack? Does the
repeated switching of power off and on harmful to the converter components?
Thanks,
Bill
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
I have a Magnacraft relay that can easily cut out the DC/DC when
charging. It could also do things like take out the precharge resistor.
It just depends on how you want to design your system. There are many
ways to do it. LR.........
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I saw this special on a local news program. This customer could log on to
his computer and see what electric rates he was paying for at that very
moment. With that he could decide to turn off his water heater, frig, home
heating, etc. to lessen the household load if he decide the price was to
high. I see this being used to get the best price for your EV charge. In the
report it was pointed out the utility could remotely shut down some your
high energy consuming devices during high electrical demand times. So they
wouldn't have to go to the extreme of shutting down parts of the grid like
what happen in California.
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/businesstechnology/2002734592_smartgrid12.html
This second link is the online video of the news special. But you have to
register to see it(I hate that!). For people living in the Pacific Northwest
I saw it on NWCN. It seems to repeat every so offten.
http://www.nwcn.com/business/stories/NW_022106BUBenergysavingsJK.4da8589d.html
Ted
Olympia, WA
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I use a large multi-position switch, with independent runs to each battery.
Banna jacks for the output which i put in the jumper leads to the DVOM.
I was thinking of using 4 cheap DVOM's from harbor freight tools and watching
all together.
paul
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Mail
Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Comments interspersed.
--- "Pestka, Dennis J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> ...
> I have set up a spreadsheet to look at Horsepower and Torque based
> on
> different voltages/amperages/efficiencies.
> It gives me 173.73 HP based on a 144 volt setup @ 1000 Amps @ 90%
> efficiency.
> First, is this correct?
Don't forget the batteries will sag at those currents. For instance,
for a 5 milliohm internal resistance battery, each battery will sag 5
mohm * 1000 Amps = 5 V. So your 144 V becomes more like 84 V, so it
would be closer to 100 hp.
> It is also showing 9124 ft/lbs of Torque @ 100 RPM.
> Is this correct or am I "Way Out" in left field on this?
9000 ft*lbs is like 20 times what a Corvette makes. You would get
these kinds of torques if you could throw the full power at the motor
at that low of an rpm. You can't do that, though, without melting the
motor, so the controller will put you into current limit (stepping
down the voltage in the process). So your calculation would only be
good at the rpm at which the controller drops out of current limit.
At that point the motor is seeing full power. So if we guess that
occurs around 3000 rpm, your torque is more like about 260 ft*lbs of
torque (which is about 1/2 of Corvette torque). This number is fairly
constant at low rpm in current limit, and drops off as 1/rpm as rpm
climbs above current limit.
So these numbers would be torque into your tranny. Your tranny trades
speed for torque, so it will multiply your torque by the gear ratio,
and the rear end will multiply it, too, so you'll have ~2600 ft. lbs
of torque at the rear wheels in 1st gear.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 01:07 PM 3/1/2006, you wrote:
Mark Freidberg wrote:
> Would it be possible to run a fused wire pair from each battery and
> connect them directly to the level control at an appropriate place?
No, that isn't practical. The circuits in the graphic equalizer all
share a common negative. The batteries are in series, so they do NOT
share a common negative. A major challenge to measuring all the battery
voltages on one device is the need to isolate each battery's signal.
> Basically I had thought if I could just find a pre-owned graphic
> equalizer and then open it up and remove the display and level
> controls only, (or perhaps just the display) and mount these
> around the EV dashboard somewhere, that might work.
There are two big problems whenever you try to adapt a consumer
electronic device to some other application. First, they won't supply a
schematic; you have to trace it out yourself to figure out how it works.
Second, it almost certainly uses a custom-programmed microcomputer which
is nearly impossible to reprogram.
To make this work, look for old equipment. It is less likely to use a
microcomputer, and more likely to be built with larger thru-hole
circuitry which is easier to trace out and modify.
Or, you have to use the consumer gadget as a "black box." Never mind how
it works, or trying to modify it; use it just as it is. In the case of a
graphic equalizer, it expects audio inputs; so GIVE it audio inputs!
Frequency determines the horizontal bar, and volume determines how many
vertical bars light.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
Is there any open source spectrum analyzer software available?
Then all you need is a laptop with a mic. input, if you can modify the
software you can display the data anyway you want.
Not the most rugged but it may work for some.
__________
Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Remember that an audio spectrum analyzer uses the
Decibel and that is a logrythmic base, Not Linear.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Andre' Blanchard
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 3:20 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
At 01:07 PM 3/1/2006, you wrote:
>Mark Freidberg wrote:
> > Would it be possible to run a fused wire pair from each battery and
> > connect them directly to the level control at an appropriate place?
>
>No, that isn't practical. The circuits in the graphic equalizer all
>share a common negative. The batteries are in series, so they do NOT
>share a common negative. A major challenge to measuring all the battery
>voltages on one device is the need to isolate each battery's signal.
>
> > Basically I had thought if I could just find a pre-owned graphic
> > equalizer and then open it up and remove the display and level
> > controls only, (or perhaps just the display) and mount these around
> > the EV dashboard somewhere, that might work.
>
>There are two big problems whenever you try to adapt a consumer
>electronic device to some other application. First, they won't supply a
>schematic; you have to trace it out yourself to figure out how it
works.
>Second, it almost certainly uses a custom-programmed microcomputer
>which is nearly impossible to reprogram.
>
>To make this work, look for old equipment. It is less likely to use a
>microcomputer, and more likely to be built with larger thru-hole
>circuitry which is easier to trace out and modify.
>
>Or, you have to use the consumer gadget as a "black box." Never mind
>how it works, or trying to modify it; use it just as it is. In the case
>of a graphic equalizer, it expects audio inputs; so GIVE it audio
inputs!
>Frequency determines the horizontal bar, and volume determines how many
>vertical bars light.
>--
>Ring the bells that still can ring
>Forget the perfect offering
>There is a crack in everything
>That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
>--
>Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
Is there any open source spectrum analyzer software available?
Then all you need is a laptop with a mic. input, if you can modify the
software you can display the data anyway you want.
Not the most rugged but it may work for some.
__________
Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<<<I wonder if Electrathoners use pulse driving technique. Going lets say 30 to
45mph and using the coast to extract extra distance. Lawrence
Rhodes.........>>>
I think that technique is more useful in an ICE - peak efficiency under heavy
load, then turn off the engine, coast, and bump-start when you're going too
slow.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This came up on the Datsun Roadster forums, and I thought it would be
kinda handy for those into performance EVs:
http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/homedyno/homedyno.htm
Now if someone could come up with a way to convert the signal from a
typical RPM sensor on an electric motor into an appropriate audio signal...
DISCLAIMER: Just a crazy thought, maybe it's not worth the trouble?
--
Stefan T. Peters
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.metricmind.com/images/lcdpage3.jpg
Please talk to me about this in about a month.
Having it work with 12V batteries will require some
scaling and calcs in software, but this isn't major problem.
Sorry, not off-shelf product either.
Victor
--
'91 ACRX - something different
Otmar wrote:
It's not exactly off-the-shelf, but JB Straubel's Battery Monitor
answers the description:
<http://www.jstraubel.com/BatteryMonitor/monitor.htm>
Listed cost is $400 for a "beta" unit.
Just so you all don't pester him, chances of getting JB to build one of
those today remind me of a recent comment concerning snowballs and
mythical hot places.
He's extremely busy with other projects as astute readers of the EVDL
might have picked up in the last few days.
Sorry I don't have a solution for you either.
I heard a rumor that Ralph Merwin might be getting close, but I'll let
him fill you in on that's if it's true.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence Rhodes asked:
>> I wonder if Electrathoners use pulse driving technique?
>> Going let's say 30 to 45mph and using the coast to extract
>> extra distance.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I think that technique is more useful in an ICE - peak efficiency
> under heavy load, then turn off the engine, coast, and bump-start
> when you're going too slow.
It works any time you have a motor that has a rather narrow efficiency
peak. Electric motors usually have a rather broad efficiency peak, so
the technique should be less useful.
However, for Electrathon, I suppose any trick that gives you even a 1%
gain might be worth doing! PM motors have full field losses all the
time, so they might benefit the most from pulse driving. If you had to
drive very slow (a parade, for example), this might be the only way to
get really high efficiency.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hacker Joel-QA6240 wrote:
> Sorry... this probably will not work because Audio Graphic
> displays are not linear, they are logarithmic. You would have
> to design your own drive circuitry to turn them back into a
> linear display and get away from the decibel system.
Yes; but that's not an insurmountable problem. Make the volume of your
individual battery oscillators a logarithmic function of voltage.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill & Nancy wrote:
> Is it best to disconnect the dc to dc when charging the pack?
> Does the repeated switching of power off and on harmful to the
> converter components?
If there is no precharge circuit, then switching the power on does
generate a high peak current, which is hard on the components. With a
precharge circuit, the stress can be so low as to be no worse than
continuous operation.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Xenarc was making a dual beam (xenon high HID low) direct replacement
for the rectangular 6054 type sealed beam headlamps. They seem to have
discontinued these and are only making the little HID driving lamps now.
I should have purchased a set when I had the chance.
The only way I can see to do this now is to get some of the Hella H4
conversion units that replace the rectangular sealed beam with a lens
and reflector unit that will take a dual beam H4 lamp. Then get an HID
conversion kit for the H4 bulbs. These bulbs have both the xenon and
HID lamps on a common base. The kits include the wiring harness and the
ballast for the HID. I am concerned that the lens and reflector of the
Hella unit will not aim the HID beam correctly, creating glare for the
on coming traffic.
Does anyone have experience with these HID conversions?
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I had messaged a few listees about testing some li-ion batteries, but if anyone
else out there can do load testing on these *and* design a BSM for them, let me
know and I'll give you the email address for the manufacturer's rep - they can
send a couple samples to play with.
cowtown at spamcop.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 03:38 PM 3/1/2006, you wrote:
Remember that an audio spectrum analyzer uses the
Decibel and that is a logrythmic base, Not Linear.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Andre' Blanchard
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 3:20 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
<< snip >>
Is there any open source spectrum analyzer software available?
Then all you need is a laptop with a mic. input, if you can modify the
software you can display the data anyway you want.
Not the most rugged but it may work for some.
__________
Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
But if you got the source code you can do anything you want with the data.
__________
Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The scientists reduced the battery weight by using a special plastic
and coating it with lead instead of fabricating the battery entirely
using solid lead. The "acrylonitrile butadiene styrene" (ABS) polymer
plastic used to make the battery "grids" is 75 per cent lighter than
metallic lead, the scientists report.
Shukla claims his battery grids are protected from corrosion by a
layer of "polyaniline," that is electro-deposited on to the grids by
using "a novel room-temperature process."
HA! The Indians have developed their own version of the FireFly battery,
using a plastic structure instead of a graphite/carbon one. Also, no
mention of increased surface area specifically, but very interesting
nonetheless. Also, it sounds like the Indian process is likely to be a
lot cheaper, as the FireFly process uses laser nanotech to protect the
lead from corrosion and ABS is going to be a lot cheaper than a special
carbon/graphite sandwich.
This is the year that battery tech explodes. Finally.
-Ken Trough
V is for Voltage
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM/YM - ktrough
FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The source code will probably take input from a ADC,
Send the information to a DSP that is programmed to
Do a FFT transform on the signal, and then break the
Frequency domain signal into discrete frequencies.
Like was said earlier...it is much easlier to design
>From the ground up than to reverse engineer and redesign
Someone else's system...try it and let me know how it
Goes, but I think you're wasting your time with a
Spectrum analyzer...especially when they use off the
Shelf components designed to do only that one thing
As cheap as possible...
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Andre' Blanchard
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 6:16 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
At 03:38 PM 3/1/2006, you wrote:
>Remember that an audio spectrum analyzer uses the Decibel and that is a
>logrythmic base, Not Linear.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
>Behalf Of Andre' Blanchard
>Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 3:20 PM
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: Re: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
>
><< snip >>
>
>
>Is there any open source spectrum analyzer software available?
>
>Then all you need is a laptop with a mic. input, if you can modify the
>software you can display the data anyway you want.
>Not the most rugged but it may work for some.
>
>
>__________
>Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
But if you got the source code you can do anything you want with the
data.
__________
Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 1 Mar 2006 at 8:05, mike young wrote:
> I have a 94 solectria force car and the gearbox is shot on it. Does anyone
> know
> where I can get a gearbox
Electro Automotive sells the Solectria AT1200 gearbox. I don't know whether
it would work with your motor. Call them and ask. It may be pricey. If
you have the older gearbox with the belt drive, the newer all-gear drive
(quieter) is a nice upgrade.
http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/acgearbox.shtml
Brusa shows what I think is the first motor/gearbox combination, very
possibly identical to yours if you have the all-gear drive, on their website
:
http://www.brusa.biz/products/e_motor_gearbox_gt20_t182.htm
Price is something over US$2900 FOB and I think that includes a GT20-T
motor. You'd have to pay postage, packing, and import duty. Victor is a
Brusa dealer, and maybe he can inquire about availability, and determine
whether the gearbox is available without the motor. If he can get it,
importing through him is apt to be much easier than dealing with Brusa
directly.
Victor also might be able to suggest an alternative drive system or
transaxle. His website shows a "Comex" and a "Carraro" that look similar.
One of these might work, given a little machine shop creativity.
http://metricmind.com/images/mot4.jpg
http://metricmind.com/images/mot2.jpg
Let us know what you decide to do.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.teamkiss.com/powertool/powertooldragrace4.html
This site shows a collection of racing machines not like anything
you've probably seen before. Some are electric. All are weird.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It makes a lot more sense still to convey the information in a digital
format, either a serial protocol or just a frequency (rather than
amplitude) signal. Pretty much all the isolation strategies will not
accurately preserve the amplitude of the signal anyways.
One you have the signal in an electrically isolated head unit, you can
display with LCD, LEDs, nixie, or *weird* send to an equalizer display.
Danny
Hacker Joel-QA6240 wrote:
The source code will probably take input from a ADC,
Send the information to a DSP that is programmed to
Do a FFT transform on the signal, and then break the
Frequency domain signal into discrete frequencies.
Like was said earlier...it is much easlier to design
From the ground up than to reverse engineer and redesign
Someone else's system...try it and let me know how it
Goes, but I think you're wasting your time with a
Spectrum analyzer...especially when they use off the
Shelf components designed to do only that one thing
As cheap as possible...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Everyone,
A guy contacted me to find out if I was interested in a GE EV2000
Controller that he picked up at a gov't surplus auction. I don't have a
use for it right now. He sent me some pictures which I posted here:
http://www.evsource.com/temp/ev2000/ev2000.html
If anyone can shed more light on this controller, that would be great.
It would be great if it could work out in a light conversion for someone.
-Ryan
--
- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Selling names like Zilla, PFC Chargers, and WarP Motors
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Paul Compton has designed & built a couple of units
that do this - I've got one in the Mini pickup. It has
saved several batteries from an early death already!
It can monitor up to 16 batteries.
It scans the batteries quickly in sequence using relays
to connect each one in turn to an isolated analogue-to-digital
converter.
A PIC micro controls the show, and displays the average battery
voltage and the lowest battery (battery no. and it's voltage)
on a small 2line LCD module.
Paul and I have been planning a next-generation version for
a while now, but haven't got around to making it yet.
Drop Paul an email, you might be able to get him to make you a
circuit board for it, it's pretty easy to build if you're handy with a
soldering iron.
H.T.H.
Richard Bebbington
electric Mini pickup
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/electric.mini/
UK dealer for Netgain EV motors!
see www.go-ev.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.teamkiss.com/powertool/powertooldragrace4.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Do you have the contact information for Paul?
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Richard Bebbington
Sent: March 1, 2006 2:56 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Off-the-shelf multiple battery voltage display sought
Paul Compton has designed & built a couple of units that do this - I've got
one in the Mini pickup. It has saved several batteries from an early death
already!
It can monitor up to 16 batteries.
It scans the batteries quickly in sequence using relays to connect each one
in turn to an isolated analogue-to-digital converter.
A PIC micro controls the show, and displays the average battery voltage and
the lowest battery (battery no. and it's voltage) on a small 2line LCD
module.
Paul and I have been planning a next-generation version for a while now, but
haven't got around to making it yet.
Drop Paul an email, you might be able to get him to make you a circuit board
for it, it's pretty easy to build if you're handy with a soldering iron.
H.T.H.
Richard Bebbington
electric Mini pickup
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/electric.mini/
UK dealer for Netgain EV motors!
see www.go-ev.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I do have the older belt drive style car and will be talking more with
electro auto and hopefully with victor also and azure.I am going to start by
removing the gearbox this wknd and take it apart and see if i can see what
is wrong.Maybe i can get this one rebuilt.I will keep u posted and thank u
very much for the good advice. Mike young
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: 94 solectria force gearbox
> On 1 Mar 2006 at 8:05, mike young wrote:
>
> > I have a 94 solectria force car and the gearbox is shot on it. Does
anyone know
> > where I can get a gearbox
>
> Electro Automotive sells the Solectria AT1200 gearbox. I don't know
whether
> it would work with your motor. Call them and ask. It may be pricey. If
> you have the older gearbox with the belt drive, the newer all-gear drive
> (quieter) is a nice upgrade.
>
> http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/acgearbox.shtml
>
> Brusa shows what I think is the first motor/gearbox combination, very
> possibly identical to yours if you have the all-gear drive, on their
website
> :
>
> http://www.brusa.biz/products/e_motor_gearbox_gt20_t182.htm
>
> Price is something over US$2900 FOB and I think that includes a GT20-T
> motor. You'd have to pay postage, packing, and import duty. Victor is a
> Brusa dealer, and maybe he can inquire about availability, and determine
> whether the gearbox is available without the motor. If he can get it,
> importing through him is apt to be much easier than dealing with Brusa
> directly.
>
> Victor also might be able to suggest an alternative drive system or
> transaxle. His website shows a "Comex" and a "Carraro" that look similar.
> One of these might work, given a little machine shop creativity.
>
> http://metricmind.com/images/mot4.jpg
>
> http://metricmind.com/images/mot2.jpg
>
> Let us know what you decide to do.
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Assistant Administrator
>
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--- End Message ---
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I put HID's in my Insight, which has H4 housings. There is a seller on eBay
that sells D2R to H4 adapters which put the blub in the correct spot in the
housing and provide a glare shield that puts the light up in the housing and
down on the road. In all the time I had them in there I only got flashed high
beams by others a few times, and I've been in friends cars that had factory
HID's that got the flash more often (people will think your brights are on no
matter what if they don't know about HID's). One thing to consider, I gave up
my high beams in doing this and I did not miss them. I drove on the highway at
night quite often too and they were wounderful, especially in bad weather.
OEM HID equiped vehicles do one of two things for a high beam. The most
common is to have a separate halogen bulb in it's own high beam reflector. This
makes almost no noticeable difference when you use them over the penetrating
light of the HID. The other is the "bi-xenon" which has a little solenoid which
physically points the projector up for a high beam. This is probably the better
way, but quite a bit of work to clone in to a non-oem equiped vehicle.
So on my Saturn conversion (1992 SC2 with the pop up headlights which
amazingly still work) it originally had H4666 sealed beams, which were
horrible. I found a H4666 to H4 adapter on eBay and put them in the Saturn with
a pair of Sylvania Silverstar H4 bulbs I had in the Insight before the real
HID's were bought. They are much better and if I can ever find the shorting
plug to make my DC/DC put out 14.4 volts rather than 13.6 I bet I even get a
few more lumens.
So when I took the HID's out of the Insight (to sell it here soon) I did
consider putting them in the Saturn, but figured it's probably not worth it
considering it is not driven at night a whole lot.
With your truck here's what I would consider doing. It's technically not
legal at all to put HID's in a vehicle that didn't come with them from the
factory. I never had a problem here in Arizona, and if you've ever been the
victim of a Cadillac Escalade right on your rear bumper you know all too well
how annoying their reflector HID's up that high are, so it's not all that
likely you'd have a problem depending on your locale. I'd suggest looking in to
having them down low separate in a fog light housing and keep the sealed beams
(as much as they suck). Then just turn on your running lights and fire the
HID's. This way if you have any issues with law enforcement you always can just
revert back to the regular headlights (and we're not talking about adding much
weight here either).
I just got a new Civic Hybrid to replace the Insight. I was going to put the
HID's in it, but I'm thinking I'm going to take more of the above approach with
this and get their nice factory fog lamps which are optional, and hope I can
get the appropriate bulb adapter. That way I can just use the regular
headlights in town and only switch the HID's on on the open road because they
are distracting no matter what if nothing else.
Of course alternately you could get the sealed beam to H4 adapters and put
the HID's in them as well, but you'd have to get the high/low special ones, and
I've been told those actually reduce your low beam output. You won't miss the
high beams.
Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Xenarc was making a dual beam (xenon high HID low) direct replacement
for the rectangular 6054 type sealed beam headlamps. They seem to have
discontinued these and are only making the little HID driving lamps now.
I should have purchased a set when I had the chance.
The only way I can see to do this now is to get some of the Hella H4
conversion units that replace the rectangular sealed beam with a lens
and reflector unit that will take a dual beam H4 lamp. Then get an HID
conversion kit for the H4 bulbs. These bulbs have both the xenon and
HID lamps on a common base. The kits include the wiring harness and the
ballast for the HID. I am concerned that the lens and reflector of the
Hella unit will not aim the HID beam correctly, creating glare for the
on coming traffic.
Does anyone have experience with these HID conversions?
Paul Wallace
'91 Chevy S-10 full of SAFT nicads
Later,
Ricky
02 Insight
92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
Glendale, AZ USA
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Yes,
The various style bypass regulators all work in that fashion. They have
different schemes for determining the on time and off time, but essentially
all bypass some current to try to control the terminal voltage.
The reason they are called bypass regulators is that when the charger is
pumping out a current (for example three amps), when the regulator turns on
(typically about two amps), the regulator will bypass some current around
the battery (in this case two amps) reducing the effective charge rate of
the battery being bypassed by about two amps (in this case producing one amp
of effective charge current).
The Mk 2 regulators have a 'overtemp' condition where the load is disabled
if it gets too hot. When this happens, the Regbus sends a command to the
charger to turn off until the load cools to an acceptable temperature.
AGMs reportedly like the pulse charging. Some people have 6 year old optimas
still in service after being used with regs for their entire lifetime.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Poulsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 1:32 PM
Subject: Battery Regulator questions
> I have a question regarding the bypass-style regulators (like the Rudman
> Reg).
>
> I read the functional description, and it says it "bypasses" the
> battery. To me, "bypass" means to remove (disconnect) the battery from
> the circuit, though clearly that isn't the case.
>
> Seems to me that what the regs do is reach a certain trip voltage, then
> they turn on a low impedance transistor which is in series with a
> low-ohm high-wattage resistor. These two components are across the
> battery terminals, and the battery itself is always wired to the pack.
>
> So if I understand it correctly, the reg intermittently puts a load
> across the battery in order to bleed off a bit of the charge. In the
> process, the battery voltage is reduced slightly for a short time after
> the load is removed. When the battery reaches the trip voltage again,
> the reg cuts the load in again.
>
> Is this correct?
>
> Is the load on-period a fixed amount of time, or by battery voltage drop ?
> Is the on-period also affected by the temp of the reg / resistor / heat
> sink?
> Does "(micro)cycling" the battery when it's full have any weird /
> adverse / serendipitical affect on the battery?
>
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I see they have installed a confirmation layer to the voting process.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron NMLUG-EV" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: Dragtimes Vote
> On Sat, 2006-02-25 at 19:01, Roderick Wilde wrote:
> > The Audi on drag times has finally got a comment but I am much too
polite to
> > print it here :-) For those who are interested here is the direct URL
> > http://www.dragtimes.com/Audi-S4-Timeslip-6528.html
> >
> > Roderick Wilde
>
> Perhaps true... but I think its a good idea to let
> a gasser win... at least for Feb.
> I'm not voting right now.
>
> I may start voting for the Maniac Mazda in March.
> What are the odds of getting it out of storage?!??
>
> --
> Aaron Birenboim \ I have an inferiority complex,
> Albuquerque, NM, USA \ but its not a very good one.
> aaron at birenboim.com \
> http://aaron.birenboim.com \
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
IIRC, the regs were the Mk 1 regs that DID NOT have temp compensation and
could be remote mounted without the temperature compensation problem.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Merwin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 6:17 AM
Subject: Re: First week's impression of my conversion.
> Roger Stockton writes:
> >
> > Look at Al Godfrey's Porsche 914 conversion (now owned by John Littauer)
> > in the EV Album:
> >
> > <http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/050c.jpg>
> >
> > He used Optimas, and had his regs all mounted remotely in a box in the
> > trunk (the box to the left of the grey "high voltage" box in the
> > picture; the neat row of yellow/orange-ish rectangles is are the load
> > resistors (nice aluminum finned power resistors)). I remember Rich
> > looking at the installation and remarking to Al that this was the way it
> > should be done (and I think something to the effect that this was the
> > only example he knew of (at that time) doing it correctly).
>
> When you remote the regs like this they don't do proper temperature
> compensation unless they happen to be the same temerature as the
> batteries. In my case, the batteries are in insulated, heated metal
> boxes, and each reg is attached to the top of the battery it monitors.
> If I were to remote the regs, the regs would think it's about 40-50F
> (current nighttime temps) when the batteries were actually at 70F.
>
> The side benefit of mounting the regs in the battery boxes is that they
> don't get wet when it rains.
>
> Ralph
>
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I'm not sure why one would really need high intensity headlights in an EV,
since most EVs are driven primarily in the city. And the subject is a tad
off topic for this list. But there are certainly folks who drive EVs in
places where more light on the road is a good idea.
HID is much discussed now, but I might mention that a little searching will
turn up higher wattage "off-road" H4 halogen lamps - 100/80 watt and 100/55
watt are common, and I've even seen a 130/90 watt. Once you have
conversions to replace your stock sealed beams, these pop right in. The beam
patterns don't bother oncoming traffic if you aim them correctly.
You usually need to add relays since these guys are apt to push the smoke
out of most OEM headlight switches. You will also have to be careful using
them if you have stock plastic headlamp housings. There are some conversion
lamps now that have plastic housings, too. I don't know how those will
stand up to the higher heat of brigher H4s.
But if you're, uh, using your EV off-road and really need more light to, uh,
illuminate the path through the woods, these will help a fair bit, with much
less installation hassle than the HIDs. And when you put your EV back on
the road, why, you can take them right back out and put in stock halogen
bulbs again.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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