EV Digest 5253
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Can some one build a small motor controller?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: The wreck
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: Titleing EV issue
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: The wreck
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Wavecrest fabrication shop up for auction
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: Car Transport (was: RE: Bradley GT EV kitcar available cheap
in Fla on E bay )
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: new low-RR tyre
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: When to Charge?
by TiM M <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: battery prices
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Bradley GT kitcar in CA
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Invitation to join the new US Electricar group
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Bradley GT kitcar in CA
by "Don Davidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Also looking for a small motor controller?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Dana Havranek)
14) Re: Range extender on the Nissan
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: When to Charge?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: Parallel Charging
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) unsubscribe
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
18) Re: The wreck
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
19) RE: Parallel Charging
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Cheap charger
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: The wreck
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: The wreck
by Andrew Letton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: Also looking for a small motor controller?
by "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: When to Charge?
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Jacob wrote:
> I need a motor controller that takes in 276VDC nom.(320V max),
> and puts out about 96VDC at 8A cont. and about 10 A peak to
> control my 1/2 HP power steering motor. It also needs to take
> in 12VDC from my ignition to turn the motor off when the ignition
> is off.
>
> Any leads here?
> Nothing with these specs seem to exist already made.
I'm sure they exist, but were designed for some dedicated application.
So it's likely to be very cheap (if found surplus), or very expensive
(if they build one more just for you).
Your 276vdc input is just about right to allow use of a 240vac switching
supply. 96v is not a standard output, but 48vdc is. So, I would look for
*two* "240vac input, 48vdc at 10amp" switching power supplies.
Grabbing the first catalog handy (www.jameco.com), I see that Jameco
#374248CB is a Meanwell PSP-600-48 switchmode supply, $199.99 each,
input: 88-264vac or 124-370vdc, 48vdc at 0-12.5a, remote on/off control,
-20+50 deg.C operating temperature, 3-year warranty. Note that this is
built for indoor use; you'd need to "ruggedize" it for use in a vehicle
so parts don't shake loose and so it can't every get wet.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Too bad Steve. Hope you find a way to deal with it that isn't too painful.
LR............
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 5:54 PM
Subject: The wreck
I've been having trouble with my emergency brake on my Tropica for a while
now. I keep it parked in the driveway with blocks behind two of the tires
just
in case. With the recent rains, I haven't driven it in a while. At 3:30 my
wife called me at work and said my car just ran into hers! Huh? The car
had
rolled over the blocks down the driveway and smacked into her Sable wagon
parked
across the driveway. She said it was bad enough to shatter her window. I
asked if anyone was hurt and fortunately no one was even around. I left
work to
deal with the damage. All the way home I thought of her description of her
car and how that might translate to my ABS body on the Tropica. The
fiberglass
I could deal with but ABS? I have no experience with. When I got home I
was
surprised to find her car quite bent and the Topica almost fine! The
brackets
that are glued onto the ABS to attach the body let go and a very small
crack
on the wheel well. I actually had to look close to find it! Hurray for
plastic! My batteries are shot so I'll address the broken brackets and
the
batteries when the weather improves.
I believe what happened is that my son was leaning on the car and perhaps
the force of him pushing on the car to stand back up was enough force. It
wasn't
his fault. It was mine and I have proper wheel chocks now.
Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It was an out of state vehicle, therefore it needed a "VIN verification".
This can be done by the hiway patrol anywhere or one of the DMV persons
if you take it in with you.
As far as I understand CA DMV rules, if it was previously titled in CA
just a trip to the referee is needed. and then the obligitary stand in
line and pay fees.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Steve, do you have a roof or cover for your Tropica? Any pictures?
Thanks
Don
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: March 14, 2006 5:55 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: The wreck
I've been having trouble with my emergency brake on my Tropica for a while
now. I keep it parked in the driveway with blocks behind two of the tires
just in case. With the recent rains, I haven't driven it in a while. At 3:30
my wife called me at work and said my car just ran into hers! Huh? The car
had rolled over the blocks down the driveway and smacked into her Sable
wagon parked across the driveway. She said it was bad enough to shatter her
window. I asked if anyone was hurt and fortunately no one was even around.
I left work to deal with the damage. All the way home I thought of her
description of her car and how that might translate to my ABS body on the
Tropica. The fiberglass I could deal with but ABS? I have no experience
with. When I got home I was surprised to find her car quite bent and the
Topica almost fine! The brackets that are glued onto the ABS to attach the
body let go and a very small crack on the wheel well. I actually had to
look close to find it! Hurray for plastic! My batteries are shot so I'll
address the broken brackets and the batteries when the weather improves.
I believe what happened is that my son was leaning on the car and perhaps
the force of him pushing on the car to stand back up was enough force. It
wasn't his fault. It was mine and I have proper wheel chocks now.
Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Did Wavecrest go belly up?
They announced a shut down of the company and started shopping the tech
to various interested parties.
What was thier mode of death??
No product, too expensive, Not enough capital??
Bottom line was that the financier behind the company decided to get out
of the business.
Did they get bought out and moved off shore??
No major announcements of who is going to buy the tech, AFAIK.
-Ken Trough
V is for Voltage
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM/YM - ktrough
FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You can try a "local" person, somebody with an actual flatbed truck
and who is not too busy, for a quote.
NOTE: local can be at either side of the route.
Actually - call at least 10 local people.
I had to have my (bought salvage) Prius shipped from near Sacramento
to South Bay.
I got ridiculous quotes from people that apparently did not want
to drive that far, until I found a local guy in Roseville, near
Sacramento, who decided that it was a good moment to take his
family to Great America and pay the entrance fee with my tow.
I was OK with that.
When you call around, you will hear wildly varying prices too.
Be creative - if you cannot afford a company to do it, would
you be willing to take some days off, use a weekend, and get it
yourself?
Can it be put in a container and sent by train/boat if you are
not in a hurry?
Do you know anyone who has a driver license but lost his job and
is looking to earn some money? It may be better when you work your
job and use the money to pay this person and a U-haul truck to
move the car.
Success researching.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Myles Twete
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 5:45 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Car Transport (was: RE: Bradley GT EV kitcar available cheap in
Fla on E bay )
There's a gazillion shipping firms out there.
Nearly every one out there is a broker and despite what they say, they'll
use other firms, vehicles and drivers to ship your rig.
I used All American Auto Tranport, I believe...and I wouldn't recommend them
either.
I asked AAAT to assure me they'd use their own rig and driver, that an
enclosed transport and a single rig hauler would be used.
They told me that indeed they would haul my electric car with a single rig
and not load/unload at distribution hubs AND that they'd use their own
truck since I paid for enclosed shipping. They also said they'd pick it up
within 4 days and haul it right away.
Well, I did get enclosed shipping and a single hauler, but that's it.
They contracted the hauling out.
They also didn't pick up the car until about 9days later.
And I paid a premium so they wouldn't outsource the deal: $1300 if I recall
vs under $900 for enclosed haulers bid by other brokers.
My only salvations:
1) the car arrived in perfect shape.
2) the transport was quick (once they picked it up)
3) the hauler was a local, Portland area hauler---and since the bulk
of the money went to the hauler, at least most of the money didn't
go
to Florida!
I've read a lot of horror stories about shipping.
Remember, there's lots of competition, and they'll say nearly anything to
get you
to ship with them.
I guess I was lucky.
-Myles Twete, Portland, Or.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of kluge
> Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 1:49 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Bradley GT EV kitcar available cheap in Fla on E bay
>
>
> I strongly advise that you ***do not*** use A-1 Auto
> Transport, purportedly of Carson, NV (but actually from California)
>
> >I bought it, now I have to get to CA. Any recommendations for a
> >reasonable transport service?
> >Thanks,
> >Bill
>
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
TireRack has B381 only in 185mm
Ecopia has the EP-02 designation, there is one review
for the 2000 Toyota RAV4-EV
and it only shows a 195/80 SR/16 size.
The Bridgestone website also shows an Ecopia EP 03
with size 195/65R14 (Honda Civic EV ?????)
and an EP 02 with size 205/65R15 (Nissan Altra EV ????)
I checked Bridgestone tires by size and there is no P145 size,
the widths start at P155
I could not find any 145/80 tyre (note the different spelling)
in the European Bridgestone site ?!?!
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Andrew Letton
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 12:20 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: new low-RR tyre
I don't think the 145/80 R14 size are sold on any car in the USA. The
Insight uses a 165/65 R14 Bridgestone RE92 (Which I have found to be
great low RR tires, btw.)
Has anyone found a source for the B 381 Ecopia 145/80 R14 76T tires on
this side of the pond?
thanks,
Andrew
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> Over here they are used on the Honda Hybrid. These are well known on
> the list as being the best possible lrr tire. There was a list of
> tires posted about 6 months ago and this tire was on the top of the
> list. LR....
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 3:01 AM
> Subject: new low-RR tyre
>
>
>> I discovered a Bridgestone tyre which is specially made for the fuel
>> efficient VW Lupo.
>>
>> It's listed as B 381 Ecopia 145/80 R14 76T
>>
>>
http://www.bridgestone-eu.com/bfe/v/index.jsp?vgnextoid=00000000000000000000
1_2_40276articleRCRD
>>
>>
>>
http://ssl.delti.com/cgi-bin/reifensucher.pl?ID=froogle&typ=76817&Country=UK
>>
>>
>> Of course there is no published data on what the rolling resistance
>> figure actually is, but it's probably worth trying if you can use that
>> size of tyre.
>>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Bruce,
Thanks for the input. It does seem like there is
plenty of conflicting information. I have a PFC-20
that doesn't correct for the temperature. I put the
formula from the US battery web page into an Excel
spreadsheet. I punch in the temperature and it kicks
out the finish voltage. My batteries (US 145) are
about 8 months old, I'm still using the "new" specs
from US Battery, 2.583V per cell @ 80 C for a finish
voltage of 186V on my 144V pack. With the temperatures
dipping into the 40s at night I've upped the finish
voltage to about 192V. I typically charge between 10
and 15 amps unless I'm in a hurry, then I up it to ~30
amps. How "old" do the batteries have to be before you
start compensating your charging voltage to take age
into account?
TiM
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Correct, one month ago I said at least 8%.
Raw lead is 350% of old price (was $400 is now $1400 per metric ton)
You can still get old batteries that are in stock for the old price,
but new shipments will have new prices.
Not all have changed dramatically, it depends on how much margin
the manufacturer already had and if he cost-reduced it recently,
then the price may actually stay the same.
Some batteries that we not cost-effective may need to be
increased more; some vendors may decide to increase their
margin to cushion against (lead) price hikes, that is their decision.
But count on a moderate price increase in most cases, if
not already in place then expect it very soon.
Hope this helps,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of mike golub
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 10:33 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: battery prices
wow
that's a bit more than 8%
--- Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Somebody I know who works for a golf cart repair
> here just told me that the prices that they pay for
> 6 v golf cart batteries are going up. One that they
> sell for about $60 is going to go up to about
> $90....
>
> so get your batteries now if you are planning on a
> new pack soon
>
> Rush
> Tucson AZ
> www.ironandwood.org
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Actually you can choose between a GT for $900 and a GT2 for $1000
on Craigslist for SF Bay area:
http://www.craigslist.org/sby/car/140747914.html
http://www.craigslist.org/eby/car/140729668.html
For all who missed out on the Ebay deal or who want a shorter
transport distance.
Success,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of jerryd
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 2:48 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Bradley GT EV kitcar available cheap in Fla on E bay
Hi All,
Here's something from another list you may
like, a really nice looking Bradley-2 EV without batts,
motor, controller in Fla. It looks like one the factory made
EV stock though may just be one made by a customer.
It would make a great EV sportscar or good
freeway EV as it's lightweight, fairly aero. Just what one
needs in an EV.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRADLEY-GTII-REPLICA-KIT-CAR-FL_W0QQitemZ8046
262470
HTH'
Jerry Dycus
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Why are you invited to join a new USElectricar group, you may ask?
There is already a USElectricar_ev group that discusses the cars
that were built by US Electricar and a lot of owners have joined
that group and can share their knowledge.
True, but only partly true.
It has been known for some time that not everyone can join the
USElectricar_ev group, that there is no moderator and that the
owner of the group is not an owner of a US Electricar, which
has as result that he does not care for the group and it is being
controlled by a set of automated scripts.
This is the reason that some people have asked him to appoint a
moderator and allow more US Electricar owners to join, as they are
being rejected by the script unnecessarily.
This situation has been in effect since 2 years and several owners
of US Electricar are known which could not join and may have as a
result abandoned the car since they could not get the support
necessary to fix it. They felt left in the cold.
I was one of those owners, I tried 4 times to join the group, was
temporarily accepted but stayed moderated for many months and all
my posts appeared with many days delay.
Then one day my membership was cancelled and I never heard a reason.
I decided that this is bad for the cause of the US Electricars, as
many other owners wanted to join and we need an active group, with
active moderation.
So, I started a new group, appointed 2 moderators and the 3 of us
are keeping a sharp eye out for spam, while also all 3 have all the
rights to approve new members, posts and so on.
Result is that this group will attract many new members that are
not able to join the USElectricar_ev group and the traffic will
mainly show up on the new USElectricar group, as these members are
not able to post on the existing group and the existing owner does
not want to open the group.
You may ask - what if I lose interest in this new group?
I promise you that I will appoint a new 3rd moderator and turn the
ownership over to one of the moderators, so the group will continue
to kick ass.
So, in order not to miss on a lot of discussion about the US
Electricar, I hereby extend a heartfelt welcome to all existing and
new owners and others interested in US Electricars to join this
exiting new group, please forward this invitation to everyone you
know that may be interested as well.
Please excuse any errors, English is not my primary language.
Kind regards,
Cor van de Water
owner & moderator
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/uselectricar/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Interest in Bradley GT2 Kit cars? I am restoring a GT Electric assembled by my
dad in 1983. Although it has NEVER been driven under its own power utilizing
the original GE EV1 SCR controller and I have the original (never used) Lester
charger, I will most likely replace these "new" components with "current"ly
available components. So, someday, I will have a "new" EV1 controller and
Lester Charger for sale
I also continue to restore a 1980 Jet Industries Electravan. The most practical
of my EV's except for the ridiculously small 10 inch wheels, tires and
associated brake parts which are difficult if not impossible to locate.
For financial reasons I've chosen to restore a 1970 VW Bug "electric" to ICE.
When I received this Bug, it was an EV with 1970 vintage home made parts, 48
volt system and no choice but to pull them out and contemplate a ground up
rebuild. Not prepared to spend $5000+ to properly restore that to an electric.
Much less expensive to stick an infernal combustion engine back in it, unless I
can be convinced that it can be updated to a 96 V EV for under
$2000.00/including cost of batteries (what it will cost me to put an ICE back
in it).
>From time to time I've mentioned that I have two unassembled Bradley GT2 kits
>(one with the chassis and remanufactured 1600 cc ICE) for sale... Also, an
>unassembled Bradley Baron (1929 Mercedes replica) kit and an unassembled Fiber
>Fab 1952 MGTD replica both with modified stretched 1973 VW Bug chassis &
>remanufactured 1600 CC ICE. Located in Central NY (not far from Syracuse)
>Prices negotiable. They must be moved out of the barn they have been in since
>1980 Buyer responsible for transport
Don Davidson
[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
----- Original Message -----
From: Cor van de Water<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 3:11 AM
Subject: RE: Bradley GT kitcar in CA
Actually you can choose between a GT for $900 and a GT2 for $1000
on Craigslist for SF Bay area:
http://www.craigslist.org/sby/car/140747914.html<http://www.craigslist.org/sby/car/140747914.html>
http://www.craigslist.org/eby/car/140729668.html<http://www.craigslist.org/eby/car/140729668.html>
For all who missed out on the Ebay deal or who want a shorter
transport distance.
Success,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Private:
http://www.cvandewater.com<http://www.cvandewater.com/>
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com<http://www.proxim.com/>
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of jerryd
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 2:48 AM
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Subject: Bradley GT EV kitcar available cheap in Fla on E bay
Hi All,
Here's something from another list you may
like, a really nice looking Bradley-2 EV without batts,
motor, controller in Fla. It looks like one the factory made
EV stock though may just be one made by a customer.
It would make a great EV sportscar or good
freeway EV as it's lightweight, fairly aero. Just what one
needs in an EV.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRADLEY-GTII-REPLICA-KIT-CAR-FL_W0QQitemZ8046<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRADLEY-GTII-REPLICA-KIT-CAR-FL_W0QQitemZ8046>
262470
HTH'
Jerry Dycus
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all, & Lee.
I too have been looking for a small, quiet controller to run my power steering
motor.
I got it up and running using a small SCR controller powered off 120 VAC and it
seems very promising.
(dims the garage lights when I turn the wheels to the stops :-)
It's just that I really don't need this thing screaming all the time - and,
yes, I do fantasize about variable speed power steering.
But for now, I would just like to find a unit or a circuit.
It's a 144 volt battery pack and a permanent magnet motor 0 - 180 VDC.
Any ideas or leads would sure be appreciated.
Dana
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Jacob wrote:
> > I need a motor controller that takes in 276VDC nom.(320V max),
> > and puts out about 96VDC at 8A cont. and about 10 A peak to
> > control my 1/2 HP power steering motor. It also needs to take
> > in 12VDC from my ignition to turn the motor off when the ignition
> > is off.
> >
> > Any leads here?
> > Nothing with these specs seem to exist already made.
>
> I'm sure they exist, but were designed for some dedicated application.
> So it's likely to be very cheap (if found surplus), or very expensive
> (if they build one more just for you).
>
> Your 276vdc input is just about right to allow use of a 240vac switching
> supply. 96v is not a standard output, but 48vdc is. So, I would look for
> *two* "240vac input, 48vdc at 10amp" switching power supplies.
>
> Grabbing the first catalog handy (www.jameco.com), I see that Jameco
> #374248CB is a Meanwell PSP-600-48 switchmode supply, $199.99 each,
> input: 88-264vac or 124-370vdc, 48vdc at 0-12.5a, remote on/off control,
> -20+50 deg.C operating temperature, 3-year warranty. Note that this is
> built for indoor use; you'd need to "ruggedize" it for use in a vehicle
> so parts don't shake loose and so it can't every get wet.
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Matt, have you seen Alain St-Yves range extender projects?
He has a 5 KW unit on his truck conversion driven by an 11 HP
Honda. You can see it in the Album at http://evalbum.com/122.html
He also has a 5 KW unit in his Cavalier at http://evalbum.com/682.html
He built the truck generator using a 3 phase AC motor, based on
guidance from several members of the EVDL. He has his own page about it at:
http://www.vehiculevert.org/levehiculevert/index.php?lien=generateur
It isn't in the Album, but he built a larger one that he trailers
behind his truck. There is a page about it at:
http://vehiculevert.org/levehiculevert/index.php?lien=baie-james but
it is in French. I emailed him about it and he said:
The 10 kw one is a 15 HP baldor with some 3 x 7 x 50 uf running
capacitor at 14 $ each on a 100 amp. 3 phase bridge driven by a
Festiva motor at 3300 rpm. Lot of HP spare, could have put another
induction generator on it.
All of his generators are based on 3 phase AC motors and output DC so
the whole charger issue is out of the picture. This is the route I
would go for a generator project. (Yes, I have to get off my but and
get mine built, got the bits just ain't done the work.)
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
In medio stat virtus - Virtue is in the moderate, not the extreme
position. (Horace)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
TiM M wrote:
> I put the formula from the US battery web page into an Excel
> spreadsheet. I punch in the temperature and it kicks out the
> finish voltage.
That's a handy way to do it. Print out a chart, and stick it on charger.
Also remember that this is battery temperature; not ambient air
temperature. Batteries take a *long* time to settle to a new
temperature.
> My batteries (US 145) are about 8 months old. I'm still using the
> "new" specs from US Battery, 2.583V per cell @ 80 C for a finish
> voltage of 186V on my 144V pack. With the temperatures dipping
> into the 40s at night I've upped the finish voltage to about 192V.
> I typically charge between 10 and 15 amps unless I'm in a hurry,
> then I up it to ~30 amps.
It helps to do your bulk charging at 20-30 amps; that's only a 0.1C rate
which is still low for these batteries.
But once you get over 2.4v/cell, it starts gassing and you're no longer
doing bulk charging; you're in the 'finishing' stage. This should be
done at a lower current, like 2% of its amphour rating (about 5 amps for
your US-145's). Otherwise, the gassing and fizzing will be worse.
I know; this is hard to do with a PFC charger; it only has one voltage
and one current setting. A good bulk current is too high for finishing,
and a good finishing current is too low for bulk.
> How "old" do the batteries have to be before you start compensating
> your charging voltage to take age into account?
It's not a simple function of cycles or age. Basically, you need to
watch the behaviour of the batteries. The goal is to get as high a
voltage as you can without the current exceeding about 5 amps, or the
time exceeding 1-2 hours.
At 2.58v/cell, new batteries will drop under 5 amps in 1-2 hours. As
they age, the current drops slower, and never gets as low. Lower the
voltage so it continues to fall to 5 amps within 2 hours. As they age
further, you also need to raise your ending current; otherwise, the
ending voltage would get too low to reach "fully charged." When they are
really old, they won't fall below 10 amps! At 10 amps, they will be
getting very messy and using a lot of water.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Would it work to connect every 12th cell together, as below:
_________ _____________ pack positive
| +|________| |
| | __|__+ __|__+
| charger | ___ ___
| 1 _|________| - | -
|_________| | |
_________ |---F1--|
| +|________| |
| | __|__+ __|__+
| charger | ___ ___
| 2 _|________| - | -
|_________| | |
_________ |---F2--|
| +|________| |
| | __|__+ __|__+
| charger | ___ ___
| 3 _|________| - | -
|_________| |_______|_____ pack negative
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Please unsubscribe me from the list... thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wed, 15 Mar 2006 06:30:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Range extender on the Nissan
Matt, have you seen Alain St-Yves range extender projects?
He has a 5 KW unit on his truck conversion driven by an 11 HP Honda. You can
see it in the Album at http://evalbum.com/122.html
He also has a 5 KW unit in his Cavalier at http://evalbum.com/682.html
He built the truck generator using a 3 phase AC motor, based on guidance from
several members of the EVDL. He has his own page about it at:
http://www.vehiculevert.org/levehiculevert/index.php?lien=generateur
It isn't in the Album, but he built a larger one that he trailers behind his
truck. There is a page about it at:
http://vehiculevert.org/levehiculevert/index.php?lien=baie-james but it is in
French. I emailed him about it and he said:
The 10 kw one is a 15 HP baldor with some 3 x 7 x 50 uf running capacitor at 14
$ each on a 100 amp. 3 phase bridge driven by a
Festiva motor at 3300 rpm. Lot of HP spare, could have put another induction
generator on it.
All of his generators are based on 3 phase AC motors and output DC so the whole
charger issue is out of the picture. This is the route I would go for a
generator project. (Yes, I have to get off my but and get mine built, got the
bits just ain't done the work.)
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
In medio stat virtus - Virtue is in the moderate, not the extreme position.
(Horace)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Don,
Nope, no roof and no cover unless you count the tarp that keeps the rain out.
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/448.html
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 19:06:22 -0800
Subject: RE: The wreck
Steve, do you have a roof or cover for your Tropica? Any pictures?
Thanks
Don
Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
see the New Beetle EV project www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: March 14, 2006 5:55 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: The wreck
I've been having trouble with my emergency brake on my Tropica for a while
now. I keep it parked in the driveway with blocks behind two of the tires
just in case. With the recent rains, I haven't driven it in a while. At 3:30
my wife called me at work and said my car just ran into hers! Huh? The car
had rolled over the blocks down the driveway and smacked into her Sable
wagon parked across the driveway. She said it was bad enough to shatter her
window. I asked if anyone was hurt and fortunately no one was even around.
I left work to deal with the damage. All the way home I thought of her
description of her car and how that might translate to my ABS body on the
Tropica. The fiberglass I could deal with but ABS? I have no experience
with. When I got home I was surprised to find her car quite bent and the
Topica almost fine! The brackets that are glued onto the ABS to attach the
body let go and a very small crack on the wheel well. I actually had to
look close to find it! Hurray for plastic! My batteries are shot so I'll
address the broken brackets and the batteries when the weather improves.
I believe what happened is that my son was leaning on the car and perhaps
the force of him pushing on the car to stand back up was enough force. It
wasn't his fault. It was mine and I have proper wheel chocks now.
Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sure, but ONLY if your chargers are isolated.
Many cheap chargers (and some very expensive ones) have an electrical
connection from one side of the AC to one side of the DC.
If you use these types of chargers then yo will end up shorting the
outputs when they are all plugged into a common AC supply.
> Would it work to connect every 12th cell together, as below:
>
> _________ _____________ pack positive
> | +|________| |
> | | __|__+ __|__+
> | charger | ___ ___
> | 1 _|________| - | -
> |_________| | |
> _________ |---F1--|
> | +|________| |
> | | __|__+ __|__+
> | charger | ___ ___
> | 2 _|________| - | -
> |_________| | |
> _________ |---F2--|
> | +|________| |
> | | __|__+ __|__+
> | charger | ___ ___
> | 3 _|________| - | -
> |_________| |_______|_____ pack negative
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Dennis
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One of the guys on the CitiCar list came up with this cheap 72 volt
charger. A dumb charger to be sure but at $150, hard to beat. 10
amps max plus the timer isn't going to harm wet cell packs. Two of
these would handle a 144 volt system. The below link is the best
price we've found so far.
John
On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 21:22:58 -0000, "Tell you if you ask."
>http://www.batteryservice.com/products_final.aspx?ModelNumber=SE-1072
>
>Also, thanks for the good link on de-sulfators.
>
>Rich
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
><*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/C-Car/
>
><*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
><*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 20:54:45 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> All the way home I thought of her description of her
>car and how that might translate to my ABS body on the Tropica. The
>fiberglass
>I could deal with but ABS? I have no experience with.
http://www.urrethanesupply.com
Everything you need.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
An extra R in that link.
Try this:
http://www.urethanesupply.com/
Neon John wrote:
On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 20:54:45 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
All the way home I thought of her description of her
car and how that might translate to my ABS body on the Tropica. The fiberglass
I could deal with but ABS? I have no experience with.
http://www.urrethanesupply.com
Everything you need.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Why fantasize about and just get the original motor controller, that's
what I did. Of course I'm assuming your talking about the MR2 electric
pump. I spent about $100 at the Toyota Junk yard acquiring the MR2 ECU,
Driver, and wiring harnesses. Reassembled it back together and it works
great. It was a little tough to get the MR2 steering sensor installed
on an S10 Blazer but a little plastic mods and it works. This system
draws very little Amps from the 12V supply when the Steering system is
not in use or no steering is occurring. But it will Pull close to 80A
during a hard steer. I have schematics and some pictures if any one
needs them...
John Grigg
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dana Havranek
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 4:12 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Also looking for a small motor controller?
Hi all, & Lee.
I too have been looking for a small, quiet controller to run my power
steering motor.
I got it up and running using a small SCR controller powered off 120 VAC
and it seems very promising.
(dims the garage lights when I turn the wheels to the stops :-) It's
just that I really don't need this thing screaming all the time - and,
yes, I do fantasize about variable speed power steering.
But for now, I would just like to find a unit or a circuit.
It's a 144 volt battery pack and a permanent magnet motor 0 - 180 VDC.
Any ideas or leads would sure be appreciated.
Dana
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Jacob wrote:
> > I need a motor controller that takes in 276VDC nom.(320V max), and
> > puts out about 96VDC at 8A cont. and about 10 A peak to control my
> > 1/2 HP power steering motor. It also needs to take in 12VDC from my
> > ignition to turn the motor off when the ignition is off.
> >
> > Any leads here?
> > Nothing with these specs seem to exist already made.
>
> I'm sure they exist, but were designed for some dedicated application.
> So it's likely to be very cheap (if found surplus), or very expensive
> (if they build one more just for you).
>
> Your 276vdc input is just about right to allow use of a 240vac
> switching supply. 96v is not a standard output, but 48vdc is. So, I
> would look for
> *two* "240vac input, 48vdc at 10amp" switching power supplies.
>
> Grabbing the first catalog handy (www.jameco.com), I see that Jameco
> #374248CB is a Meanwell PSP-600-48 switchmode supply, $199.99 each,
> input: 88-264vac or 124-370vdc, 48vdc at 0-12.5a, remote on/off
> control,
> -20+50 deg.C operating temperature, 3-year warranty. Note that this is
> built for indoor use; you'd need to "ruggedize" it for use in a
> vehicle so parts don't shake loose and so it can't every get wet.
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377,
> leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Man that is a Darn high finishing voltage. It's the same I use for
13 Optimas.
This must Gas them floodies pretty hard!
Do you get any current taper off? at all?
The point is to get them charges and then the current is supposed to taper
off as the battery comes to a full charge. At 190 volts you are simply over
charging them.
Stone cold in mid winter, maybe this is a good idea. But I try to never let
this happen on my batteries.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
----- Original Message -----
From: "TiM M" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 11:39 PM
Subject: Re: When to Charge?
> Hey Bruce,
> Thanks for the input. It does seem like there is
> plenty of conflicting information. I have a PFC-20
> that doesn't correct for the temperature. I put the
> formula from the US battery web page into an Excel
> spreadsheet. I punch in the temperature and it kicks
> out the finish voltage. My batteries (US 145) are
> about 8 months old, I'm still using the "new" specs
> from US Battery, 2.583V per cell @ 80 C for a finish
> voltage of 186V on my 144V pack. With the temperatures
> dipping into the 40s at night I've upped the finish
> voltage to about 192V. I typically charge between 10
> and 15 amps unless I'm in a hurry, then I up it to ~30
> amps. How "old" do the batteries have to be before you
> start compensating your charging voltage to take age
> into account?
>
> TiM
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
--- End Message ---
