EV Digest 5267
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) What an experience! - no doing that again
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: LED Headlights
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
3) RE: Metering circuit
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
4) Re: EV cheaper than gas per mile
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: AC version of the ETek?
by "Dmitri Hurik" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: EV1 (Midwest Hybridfest: 22 July 2006)
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: What are the possible causes for a charger to not bring up total pack
voltage hi enough?
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: What are the possible causes for a charger to not bring up total pack
voltage hi enough?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) OT: Wind or Solar - Was: EV cheaper than gas per mile
by "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Monster Garage?
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: LED Headlights
by Matt Milliron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: EV cheaper than gas per mile
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: What an experience! - no doing that again
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Metering circuit
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Millwaukee Site Awesome Helicopter Video...(was Monster Garage)
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: One more monitoring circuit
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: EV digest 5266
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) OT: Solar Power Gov't Job
by Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: EV cheaper than gas per mile
by Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Metering circuit
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Millwaukee Site Awesome Helicopter Video...(was Monster Garage)
by Darin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Elec-trak circuit.
by James Jarrett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: What are the possible causes for a charger to not bring up total pack
voltage hi enough?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: LED Headlights
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: LED Headlights
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
HI All,
Just got my officlal EV licence to drive. wooho. My car pass blue slip and i
got it registered.
Plenty of paper work.....
And then...
I had 70% of charge left. Bloody inspector was flooring it down the street
and lighting up t tyres in third gear. So much current draw, prob did some
damage to the batteries.
Damn he reackoned that he couldn't get a good reading on the brake test. So
he slammed my brakes 5 times.
Ouchhh!
Anyway, when i got back home i drove around blacktown, for about 10 km's.
Got home, had about 30-40% left, Tried to go to my girlfriends house which
is 10 km's away, most of it hilly sections. Damn, i got half way and the car
literaly stopped.
So stupid. So i had to limp my way back to the nearest service station 7/11,
then ask to re-charge for 30 mins. That gave me enough energy to get back
home about 2 km's away.
Not smart at all.
Luckily i had built my battery charger that afternoon, otherwise i would
have to fork out 100 bux to get my car towed.
Always leave home with a full pack i think!
Cheers
_________________________________________________________________
Shopping made easy @ tradingpost.com.au
http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Etradingpost%2Ecom%2Eau%2F%3Freferrer%3DnmsnHMetagv1&_t=753082530&_r=emailtagline&_m=EXT
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<<< I was also wondering if anyone is making headlamps with those high power
Luxeon Star K2 5 watt LED's? Seen some bicyclers with some pretty blinding
headlamps.
http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=1811&link_str=330&partno=LXK2-PW14-U00 >>>
I was *just* looking into these! How about this one -- less than half the total
output, but higher efficiency (I like how this site even posts end-users'
reviews of the products) at $11.50 a piece:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/LED-110/340500/ - at the lower level
of 0.35A, this one gives 60 lumens vs luxor's 130 from 1.5A. How many lumens to
equal an "average" headlight (semi-halogen, not HID)?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<<< Here's a little simpler one, don't know if 14.5 Volts would bust it though.
http://www.gibsonteched.com/ck005.html
or this one about 2/3 down the page titled "LED 12 Volt Lead Acid Battery
Meter"
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/page11.htm
Here's a non kit version with 1 tri-color LED and flash codes. Kinda spendy
for a large pack though:
http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=BOVOLT
Another simple but odd display type:
http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Power/svind.htm
Another:
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/ledvolt.htm >>>
The one at the bottom I just posted as an example of a "single-battery
Batt-Bridge". Any idea which would have an output the most isolated from the
battery it was monitoring?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have grid tie.
There are a few things that were a bit of a surprise.
I often make more in the spring and fall months than the middle of summer.
The solar cells are semiconductors and the heat reduces their output. A
bright overcast day can make full capacity.
2.5kwh is not enough. And that is just me,myself and I. It will take a
long time for it to pay off. 5kw would completely obliterate my electric
bill. My power made is about = to the power purchased.
Dust on the panels cuts output 15-30% gotta wash them regularly. when I
first washed them the output shot up and as they dry off it settles back
down, but still above before I washed them. That moment of cooling is
really noticeable.
everytime I thing it wasn't worth it someone tells me their electric
bill and I feel better.
Off grid people talk a lot about parisitic loads, just how much does it
take to keep the clock lit on the microwave,stove,tv,vcr. I have yet to
look at this.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sure, lets see them, I'm interested.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Wong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: AC version of the ETek?
Mars Electric LLC is making a brushless DC motor with similar mounting to
the Etek. They also have two controllers, one fixed speed and one
variable.
They have quoted me $450 for the motor with either controller. The motor
is rated at 4hp continuous (less than the Etek) but I think the limitation
is in the controller. They send me some large jpgs with motor performance
graphs if anyone is interested in the data.
Ray
<contact>
John Fiorenza
Mars Electric LLC
3580 Slinger Road
Slinger, WI 53086 USA
Phone: 262-644-7525
Fax: 262-644-7527
www.marselectricllc.com
Dmitri Hurik <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
If by "replacement" you mean alternative, here is one:
http://www.enigmaindustries.com/PMG_132/PMG_132.htm
Briggs and Stratton made a brushless E-tek with similar ratings in 2003,
but
haven't seen it anywhere yet for some reason.
http://www.commercialpower.com/display/router.asp?DocID=%09%09%09%09%09%09%09%0975790
Maybe they just weren't selling enough for the floor care equipment
industry
and discountinued them as well.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nick Austin"
To: "EVList"
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 2:50 AM
Subject: AC version of the ETek?
I was looking at the ETek for use in an electric scooter project, but I
noted
that it has been discontinued.
Is there a replacement for the ETek? Also, does anybody know if there is
an
AC version with similar ratings?
Thanks!
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Mail
Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've been talking with Eric Powers and am forwarding this invitation
on his behalf. Before doing that I'm going to take the liberty of
injecting some EV into this EVent for the EVDL folks out there!
It's not just for Hybrids, as there's plenty of notable EV/PHEV.
Eric Powers wrote: ( http://www.hybridfest.com )
> I would like to get the Hybridfest info out to the EV groups but
> I'm not sure how to do it without intruding on a community that
> I am not active in.
Well, I don't have any problem intruding, so...
> The EV1 I mentioned is definitely going to be there because Glen
> Bower, the faculty adviser for the WI team that created it is
> speaking at the event. The newsletter directions/link I gave you
> describe how that particular EV1 came into being. (I hope I get
> to ride in it and maybe??? drive it?)
>> http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~vehicle/, click on
>> Quarterly newsletter on the left column, then winter 2005, page
Having been lucky enough to rent and drive an EV1 I was excited to
hear about this EV1 restoration. Which I was surprised to have not
heard about here on the list first, though I could have missed it.
They received a disabled EV1 like many universities. They used their
and six of the University of West Virginia's Ranger EV NiMH batteries
to make a full stock NiMH pack. Unfortunently it sounds like the
rest of the powertrain isn't exactly stock, and they may have blown
up the stock motor with an earlier attempt with the wrong controller.
No word on the performance difference, sure would love to take a ride.
> Hymotion has verbally committed to coming from Toronto
> not sure yet what they will be bringing.
Hymotion is the new company offering a Plug-In Hybrid (PHEV) kit
with lithium for the Prius (HEV-30) and Escape, to fleets initially.
Boy I would have so many questions for these guys... I'm only able
to speculate, but it sounds to me like they are using a type of
"Hybrid-Pack" configuration, which a number of local EVers have
been looking into aswell, seems there are many ways to do it.
.oO(If only Toyota would do it, it's all there but the bigger battery.)
> Also Mike Dabrowski (99mpg.com) is coming, and he is actively
> working on creating a gridable Insight. He is going to speak
> about hacking into the Insight's system.
>> http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3996
In working with Ron on the PriusPlus and having an Insight, the MIMA
(Manual IMA) project is outstanding in and of itself. Though with
it and a larger grid chargeable battery pack even the Insight should
be capable of mixed-mode ( http://www.eaa-phev.org/wiki/Mixed-mode )
gains, though no ev-only mode it is a whole lot more EV than stock!
Anyway, now for the invitation as it appeared elsewhere, L8r Ryan...
----
Per http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/gridable-hybrids/message/2356
Madison, Wisconsin, Saturday, July 22, 2006, 9 am – 5 pm
Part of the Dane County Fair at the Alliant Energy Center
You are invited to join us for Midwest Hybridfest 2006 – A Hybrid
Electric Car Show and More! For more information, or to register,
visit www.hybridfest.com
BE a part of the Midwest's largest event dedicated to the hybrid
electric car.
LEARN everything you wanted to know about hybrid cars and a whole lot
more!
SEE which hybrid cars and SUVs are on the market and take them for a
test drive.
MEET hybrid owners and "talk shop".
Yes, Hybridfest is about hybrid cars, but it is also a place for
discussion of important issues such as climate change, air quality,
and the need for sustainable transportation. Car dealers,
environmental groups, vendors and others will be on hand to make
Hybridfest a memorable experience.
Your $25 registration fee per car includes:
- Entry into the MPG competition
- Access to indoor technical hybrid presentations
- Hybrid car show entry
- Awards
- Discounted hotel rate
- Free Hybridfest t-shirt
- Free Hybridfest goodie bag
- Special discounted price for Dane County Fair Tickets
- Ice cream social for registrants who arrive Friday evening
Register by March 30 and you'll be entered in a drawing to win one
Free Hybridfest Registration!
As a registered attendee you can also purchase a Boxed Lunch ($6 per
person), and join us for the Awards Dinner ($15 per person, 6pm-8pm)
with Keynote Speaker: David Morris, Vice President of the Institute
for Local Self Reliance
Our goal is to gather at least 100 hybrid cars on site to show that
hybrid cars are everywhere and come in all shapes, sizes and colors.
You can help us reach that goal, while having fun!
Speakers will share their thoughts on topics ranging
from "hypermiling" techniques to hacking into your hybrid. These
sessions are more technical than the outdoor sessions and only
available to Registered Attendees.
Expect to see a few of the Prius "Marathon Men" there, as well as
John1701a, Mike Dabrowski, and other hybrid notables. (see the
Hybridfest web site for a detailed list of speakers.)
Additional Hybridfest activities that are open to the general public
at no charge include interactive exhibits, test drives, talking to
other owners, vendor booths and music.
View one-of-a-kind vehicles like:
- The UW's diesel hybrid electric Chevy Equinox (MOOlander)
- A fully functional EV1
- And maybe even a plug-in hybrid or two!
People from around the country are coming to Hybridfest so consider
organizing your own "hybrid caravan" to the event. So far, states
represented include West Virginia, Washington, Oklahoma, Tennessee,
Minnesota, Illinois, Connecticut, Wisconsin, and Michigan.
Whatever you do, do not miss Hybridfest!
For more information visit http://www.hybridfest.com
We would like to thank these generous sponsors for making Hybridfest
possible:
--- Zimbrick Honda of Madison --- Smart Toyota
--- Gordie Boucher Lincoln Mercury --- General Motors
--- Johnson Controls, Inc. --- International Crane Foundation
--- Wisconsin Clean Cities --- 40mpg.org
--- hybricarstore.com --- Dark Side Ridez
--- The Radio Doctor --- Four Lakes Group Sierra Club
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
so more things to check .... what is the voltage when the charger is on and
charging , before truning off . also can you see amps going in , what is
that at end , begining ?
steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jacob" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 11:06 PM
Subject: What are the possible causes for a charger to not bring up total
pack voltage hi enough?
Hi, I have a GMC S-15 conversion with a 120V system and a Zivan NLG3
charger
that has an input of 220V AC (15A). Since yesterday, the pack voltage has
only reached 121V after a full charge. It used to reach 129 or 130V. The
batteries individually range within .08 V each averaging about 6.04V.
These
are NEW Exide GC2 227Ahr batteries.
What could be going wrong here? Is it the charger of the batteries?
Do I need to take the Zivan to their office in Sac to be checked on a
bench,
or is their something else I could do or check first?
Thanks in advance...
Jacob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Jacob,
It looks like the charger voltage is not high enough. 130 volts on a 120
volt battery pack is only 6.5 volts per 6 volt battery or 13 volts per 12
volt battery.
If the battery temperature is about 80 degrees, than at least 7.2 or 14.2
per battery which would be 144 charger volts.
If the battery temperature is about 70 degrees, than you can jack it up to
7.3 or 14.6 for a 146 charge volts.
At a battery temperature of 60 degrees, it should be about 7.5 or 15 for 150
charge voltage.
I am right now charging my 180 volt battery pack to 225 volts with a battery
pack at 60 degrees. This is 15 volts per 12 volts. My equalization charge
would be about 233 volts or 15.5 volts per 12 volt battery. This would be
155 volts on your battery pack.
My battery charger open voltage is about 315 volts over 180 volt pack, so
your 120 volt pack should have a charger that has a open voltage at least
210 volt.
Now, it could be your new batteries too. Look at the battery date that
should be stamp on the lead pad or next to the battery post. This should
not be more than a month old from date of purchase. Best not to be over two
weeks of date of purchase.
The second set of batteries for my EV were Exides, had battery dates than
range from 14 months old to one month old. They took 10 out of stock from a
warehouse, 10 that were in stock, and 10 that they had to order. I found
out that there were no maintainers on any of the in stock batteries, which
was so sulfated, that I blew 10 of these batteries up because the voltage
never came up with the correct charge voltage of 220 volts for a 180 volt
pack.
I made them replace all the batteries with new fresh factory batteries.
Since this happen, I bypass the local dealers and purchase them from the
factory distributor.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jacob" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 9:06 PM
Subject: What are the possible causes for a charger to not bring up total
pack voltage hi enough?
> Hi, I have a GMC S-15 conversion with a 120V system and a Zivan NLG3
> charger
> that has an input of 220V AC (15A). Since yesterday, the pack voltage has
> only reached 121V after a full charge. It used to reach 129 or 130V. The
> batteries individually range within .08 V each averaging about 6.04V.
> These
> are NEW Exide GC2 227Ahr batteries.
>
> What could be going wrong here? Is it the charger of the batteries?
> Do I need to take the Zivan to their office in Sac to be checked on a
> bench,
> or is their something else I could do or check first?
> Thanks in advance...
> Jacob
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Everybody:
While competition is usually a good thing, deregulation of the electric
energy markets has managed to achieve quite the opposite of what it was
supposed to do. Anyway, with rates approaching 18c, we are now considering
producing our own electricity. In this regard, it might be a blessing in
disguise as higher rates will push a lot more people to conservation
and/or alternative energy production.
Question is: Solar or Wind? Both has advantages though it seems to me, a
wind system might produce more bang for the buck. I know, a combination
system (wind and solar) might be the ultimate, but hey, our money printing
machine is currently broken ;)
We have room enough for either system, a 120ft tower with a 10 Kw turbine
or roof space for a medium size solar array. Zoning or permits wouldn't be
a problem for us. The Solarmap shows we're living right on the edge of
dark orange und light orange, wind map 3.
The Federal Government would even pay for 25% of the installation (2002
Farm Bill Initiative), though unbelievable amounts of paperwork :(
Maybe you guys have some ideas to share that would give me additional
information.
Thanks,
Michaela
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich,
You're famous! I'm surprised you didn't mention the short video clip of
it at the bottom of the page:
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/us/en/news.nsf/vwPressReleases/05B7EA8847B096A48625710A006F210D?OpenDocument
Looks good!
-Ryan
www.milwaukeetool.com
press release
additional press releases
2nd one down
V8=V28
--
- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Selling names like Zilla, PFC Chargers, and WarP Motors
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This was sent to me because bought some LED bulbs from them.
On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 04:25:56 -0800, you wrote:
><<< I was also wondering if anyone is making headlamps with those high power
>Luxeon Star K2 5 watt LED's? Seen some bicyclers with some pretty blinding
>headlamps.
World's most advanced automotive lighting @ SigmaAuto.com!
==========================================================
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**** PIAA Super TERA 6500 LED T-10 Bulb ****
This is so far the most powerful & brightest LED bulbs made by
PIAA. It is the newest member of PIAA's Super TERA series. This
particular model outputs up to 18x brighter than conventional
counterpart. Each bulb contains 3x Hyper LED diodes that output in
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dissipation fins. This prolongs the bulb lifespan substantially.
Price: 89.00
spotlight product link:
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**** OHINATA 27x LED 7440 Bulb ****
No other 7440 bulbs has 27x high intensity Japanese LED diodes jammed
in like this. These diodes are much brighter than those cheapie/dim
ones you find on eBay.
Price: 49.00
link: http://www.sigmaauto.com/lighting/ohinata.php
**** CATZ Halogen Reverse Bulb ****
Presenting the worlds brightest T-20 (7440) & T-16 (921) reverse
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link: http://www.sigmaauto.com/lighting/catz.php
**** RAYBRIG HB HalogentoLED Conversion Bulb ****
This is the latest trend in Japan: Convert your 9006 (or H11) halogen
fog lamps into LED lamps! RAYBRIG also makes some totally unique yet
super bright LED T-10 bulbs.
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**** POLARG High Power LED T-10 Bulb ****
This is the best automotive LED T-10 bulb w/ tons of peripheral
illumination. Its diodes are 10x as bright as conventional cheapie
ones.
Price: 49.00
link: http://www.sigmaauto.com/lighting/polarg.php
**** IPF Super Low Beam XX Bulb ****
IPF invented oversized halogen bulbs. They house more gas, they burn
brighter, beam angle is widened, these are truly unique.
Price: 85.00
link: http://www.sigmaauto.com/lighting/ipf_halogen.php
**** BLITZ Dual Tube Halogen ****
Wanna see an HIR (Halogen Infrared Reflective) in an enclosed exterior
capsule? The first of its type, ever.
Price: 115.00
link: http://www.sigmaauto.com/lighting/blitz.php
**** SplitFire Turbine LED Light ****
Totally wireless & powered by wind!
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link: http://www.sigmaauto.com/lighting/splitfire.php
**** SUN AUTO HID & LED Flashlights ****
24W HID flashlight has an illumination distance of 600 feet! Their
LED flashlight is packed w/ 12x high intensity LED diodes.
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**** Shark Fin Antenna ****
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these on your rides!
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==========================================================
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DBA: SigmaAuto.com
Web Site: http://www.SigmaAuto.com
Fax: 866-728-3575
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jeff Shanab wrote:
I have grid tie.
Likewise, so do I. In addition the Elec-trak is powered by solar, so
this is on topic (Solarex made 36 volt battery chargers, though I think
I'm going to go with an Outback MPPT model soon).
The house has a 1.8kw array that I installed in October. It's kind of
interesting to watch the sun's output; power went from about 2kw/day
down to 800 watts by Dec 22nd, then started climbing back up to 5kw for
the day on Sunday (Equinox). Given that 5.6kw is about annual average
for my latitude, that's not too bad.
I installed them facing SW-ish, and at a low angle so they could be
direct-mounted to the roof. The result looks very nice and is almost
invisible, which is what I wanted. I also have a lot of trees, so I
wired them up as two strings of 900 watts going to a Sunny Boy 1800.
So far it's worth it. And with the 77% rate hike on the way with more to
follow (I'm guessing rates will go up by 400% in the next 5 years) it's
a pretty good deal.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How come a untrain inspector drove the vehicle? I do not let any body drive
my EV unless they are fully train. Only a train driver drives the vehicle
for these test. Did you ask him for his EV certificate?
Next time, type up a check list of what things to do and not to do. You act
like a co-pilot going thru a complete check and warnings.
I let only one guy who want to drive my EV, to try it. Of course I had over
42 control switches off and there was about 20 indicators to monitor. After
I went halfway thru the check list which I have in my 2 inch thick note
book, he did not attempt to drive the vehicle.
Kind of scare him. I also have a sound system, that makes a jet engine start
up noise when the motor comes up to speed and then makes a low rumbling
pulsating noise that increases in tempo like something is going to blow.
I told him not to touch that big red switch handle, or you will be out of
here so fast, that you will not know what hit you.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 4:36 AM
Subject: What an experience! - no doing that again
> HI All,
>
> Just got my officlal EV licence to drive. wooho. My car pass blue slip and
> i
> got it registered.
>
> Plenty of paper work.....
>
> And then...
>
> I had 70% of charge left. Bloody inspector was flooring it down the street
> and lighting up t tyres in third gear. So much current draw, prob did some
> damage to the batteries.
>
> Damn he reackoned that he couldn't get a good reading on the brake test.
> So
> he slammed my brakes 5 times.
>
> Ouchhh!
>
> Anyway, when i got back home i drove around blacktown, for about 10 km's.
>
> Got home, had about 30-40% left, Tried to go to my girlfriends house which
> is 10 km's away, most of it hilly sections. Damn, i got half way and the
> car
> literaly stopped.
>
> So stupid. So i had to limp my way back to the nearest service station
> 7/11,
> then ask to re-charge for 30 mins. That gave me enough energy to get back
> home about 2 km's away.
>
> Not smart at all.
>
> Luckily i had built my battery charger that afternoon, otherwise i would
> have to fork out 100 bux to get my car towed.
>
> Always leave home with a full pack i think!
> Cheers
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Shopping made easy @ tradingpost.com.au
> http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Etradingpost%2Ecom%2Eau%2F%3Freferrer%3DnmsnHMetagv1&_t=753082530&_r=emailtagline&_m=EXT
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Could you put this circuit at each battery and use a ribbon cable to
> send the output to 8-LED bars in the dash:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4624650692
This looks like a hobby project, a clone of the one sold by Jameco,
MPJA, and others for $7.95 ($6.95 for 5 or more). Problems I see with
this kit are its claimed 2% accuracy, but all the resistors and zener
are 5%, no provisions for calibration or adjustment, no noise filtering
caps, and "secret" ICs (numbers hidden).
I bought one of the MPJA kits. If this one is indeed the same circuit as
mine, then it has a pair of LM324 quad opamps, wired as comparators. The
unit lights from 1-8 LEDs, bargraph style, so its power consumption
varies from 10-50ma (rather high to leave on a battery all the time).
I extensively rewired mine, so it has 9 LEDs that light one at a time,
moving dot style. This and other changes cut the power consumption to
5-10ma.
If you want to use one of these, I'd mount the whole board where you can
see it, and run 2 wires to the battery it is monitoring. Remember that
everything in this circuit is "hot" to your battery, and needs to be
insulated appropriately! No low-voltage ribbon cables!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Probably one of the best short commercials I've ever seen! Check out the
Milwaukee Power Tools site, look at the right side of the page, and
click on the upper of the two videos they have for viewing (the lower
video is dull and boring). I watched it four of five times and laughed
out loud each time!
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> This looks like Lee Hart's Batt-Bridge for each battery:
> http://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/ledvolt.htm
Yes, except it's a lot more complicated. Two ICs?!?
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim Wolfe wrote:
> It sounds like it's hanging up on the clutch spline or the throwout
> bearing
> sleeve.
It must have been the sleeve. I could turn it freely at the point it
bound up. I pulled it back out, redid the nylon slings a bit to get it
more level, put it back in and it went in with only about a half hour
of wrangling. When it slipped in that first half inch past where it
had been sticking, then I knew I was home free. After that I just
turned it a bit (and at this point I could feel the splines), and then
it slipped the rest of the way on.
> Mine's a 5 speed but that shouldn't make a difference
Wanna bet?!? I had major headaches trying to get an L4/V6 Hybrid
adapter. The car was a V6, which came with the 4-speed. I bought an
adapter from CANEV, and Randy said they didn't have a V6 hub available.
I'd need to buy a new flywheel, but it should go together with no
problem. Now the flywheels are a different bolt pattern, so I bought
that and installed it (I think they are the same thickness, except the
V6 flywheel has a counterweight cast into it on the back).
I happily do a test fit...*CLUNK* The 4-speed has a larger shaft
diameter at the end, even though they have the same splines. So
everything comes apart so I can take the adapter hub to be machined out
to match the hole in the V6 Engine adapter (which fortunately, is still
lying on the garage floor so I can take measurements). A week later I
reassemble everything and do another test fit, and it goes together.
Happy again, I go to buy a clutch. At the Fiero store, the clutches
are the same P/N, but I want a kit with a new bearing so I go to my
auto parts place and order a clutch kit that includes a bearing. They
had the two engines listed as using different clutches. Since I now
have a 2.5L L4 flywheel, I order the clutch to match. Guess what? The
throwout bearing is different! So back to the parts store for a V6
bearing to match the transmission. Now, with the motor in, I notice
that the clutch slave cylinder rod didn't compress at all, so I'm
wondering if the overall depth is off, since the clutch and bearings
are the same depth as for the V6.
>My trick is to use a couple of long bolts with the heads cut off. They
work as guide pins all the way in while starting the alignment from 4"
to 5" away.
That's a good idea. This arrangement seems to be a lot more finicky
than the escort EV I had previously. That one would slide right on.
> BTW: What is this rust that you refer to? I've heard Bob Rice allude
> to that also. Is it contagious?
I think it's an allergic reaction steel has to being near salt and
water. I believe it is indigenous to the Eastern United States:-) I'm
in Savannah, GA., and the car came from West Virginia originally.
Thanks!
Dave Brandt
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
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--- Begin Message ---
Since we got talking a bit about solar power.....
Just this morning I received a notice about a Federal position for a Solar
Power Program Analyst in the DC area.
here's the announcement, good luck.
http://jobsearch.usajobs.opm.gov/getjob.asp?JobID=40978878&WT.mc_n=MKT000125
Stay Charged!
Hump
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--- Begin Message ---
Original Message -----------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Christopher Zach
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 9:40 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: EV cheaper than gas per mile
I installed them facing SW-ish, and at a low angle so they could be
direct-mounted to the roof. The result looks very nice and is almost
invisible, which is what I wanted. I also have a lot of trees, so I wired
them up as two strings of 900 watts going to a Sunny Boy 1800.
So far it's worth it. And with the 77% rate hike on the way with more to
follow (I'm guessing rates will go up by 400% in the next 5 years) it's a
pretty good deal.
Chris
Chris ain't kidding when he says he has a lot of tree's. I have been hearing
about his solar powered shed for a few years on the Elec-Trak list. I've also
followed a few solar threads here and there. It seems that tree's are the
nemesis of a solar installation.
So last year when I stopped at Chris' house after the Power of DC and saw the
trees that he has I was simply amazed that he gets any solar power at all. He
lives in what I would describe as an old growth forest where the only hole in
the canopy is directly above his house and backyard. Literally, his house is at
the base of a cylinder of trees, and he's in Maryland, a little further north
than the optimum location for solar.
I had been contemplating putting solar up at my place, but I have a line of
tree's all along the south edge. But I still have a better shot at the sun than
Chris does, and I'm 350 miles futher north. I don't think the tree's would
present a problem. BUT, I have to take into consideration lake-effect overcast.
When people say "stick it where the sun don't shine" I sometimes think they're
talking about central NY.
Stay Charged!
Hump
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--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Another simple but odd display type:
> http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Power/svind.htm
That one's cute. I've never run across a transistor that oscillated like
that.
> The one at the bottom I just posted as an example of a "single-battery
> Batt-Bridge".
My Batt-Bridge is rather different. It doesn't indicate voltage -- it
tells you when the DIFFERENCE in voltage between two batteries exceeds 2
volts. That tells you that some cell in one or the other of the two went
dead. So, it works as an "idiot light". When it lights, it means "stop
driving so hard, idiot!" (in a nice way :-)
> Any idea which would have an output the most isolated from the
> battery it was monitoring?
NONE of them.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
thanks for the laugh. that was good.
here's a direct link
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/helicopter/index.html
- darin.
John Wayland wrote:
Hello to All,
Probably one of the best short commercials I've ever seen! Check out the
Milwaukee Power Tools site, look at the right side of the page, and
click on the upper of the two videos they have for viewing (the lower
video is dull and boring). I watched it four of five times and laughed
out loud each time!
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Maybe the electrical geniuses on this list can help me with a small
(maybe not small) project.
I have a small (15 acre) farm that is surrounded by old turkey houses
that are being torn down (some by hand, some by nature). Anyway, every
time there is a big wind storm my field is full of chunks of 1/2 inch
styrofoam insulation.
In the past, I have hooked a garden cart to the back of the I-5 and
towed it around and picked up the sheets. In order to be able to throw
it away, it has to be packed in garbage bags. This is a real pain. If
I don't break it down into small (say 2-3 inch square) pieces, I can't
get much in a garbage bag.
I seem to spend hours just breaking up foam.
Then I got an idea. Suppose I build a ring to sit on top of my trash
can and and string it with a 3" grid of wires and use the ET's accessory
port to power / heat those wires. Now all I have to do is break the
foam into chunks that would fit in the trash can and the wires would
"melt" them into little squares. I could even do this as I drive around
gathering the foam.
Anyone know how to make this work? Or failing that, have another idea
for tearing up the foam so I can easily bag it?
I had thought once (briefly) of making a 36v electric shreader but could
not come up with a way that both worked and seemed safe.
Thanks all.
James
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--- Begin Message ---
For sure you are one volt from dead. Your batteries are 90% discharged.
Take care. Check fuses. Measure the output while charging. Look for
disconnected wires etc.... Certainly your charger is not charging or the
voltage is set incorrectly. Check output at the charger. Check output at
the batteries. A broken wire is not impossible. I am not familiar with the
Zivan but you should read the manual before doing anything else. You are
the best technician at this point. READ..........THE.....
MANUAL.............. LR.............
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 9:53 PM
Subject: Re: What are the possible causes for a charger to not bring up
total pack voltage hi enough?
It is the charger.
Check the obvious things: plugged in, turned on, fuse OK, Smell of hot
circuit board material, etc.
If you don't find anything wrong, take it in for service.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jacob" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 8:06 PM
Subject: What are the possible causes for a charger to not bring up total
pack voltage hi enough?
Hi, I have a GMC S-15 conversion with a 120V system and a Zivan NLG3
charger
that has an input of 220V AC (15A). Since yesterday, the pack voltage has
only reached 121V after a full charge. It used to reach 129 or 130V. The
batteries individually range within .08 V each averaging about 6.04V.
These
are NEW Exide GC2 227Ahr batteries.
What could be going wrong here? Is it the charger of the batteries?
Do I need to take the Zivan to their office in Sac to be checked on a
bench,
or is their something else I could do or check first?
Thanks in advance...
Jacob
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--- Begin Message ---
130 Lumens is what my Big screen wall projector puts out. In practical
terms can just one of these LED's equal a standard Halogen? If not how
would you gang them? LR..........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike & Paula Willmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 1:10 AM
Subject: LED Headlights
Interesting find looking for the LED voltage indicators.
http://www.ledtronics.com/datasheets/auto_index/auto_index.htm#Auto_Section_
4
Is anyone using LED conversion bulbs in the EV for tail and turn signals?
Nick's home made versions for his Cherokee are pretty resourceful. Maybe
Nick would comment on how well they are working for him.
I was also wondering if anyone is making headlamps with those high power
Luxeon Star K2 5 watt LED's? Seen some bicyclers with some pretty
blinding
headlamps.
http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=1811&link_str=330&partno=LXK2-PW14-U00
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Rush
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 9:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Metering circuit
Note that it is a Kit, and not assembled as shown in the pics...
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 11:18 PM
Subject: Metering circuit
Could you put this circuit at each battery and use a ribbon cable to send
the
output to 8-LED bars in the dash:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4624650692
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To rehash a previous discussion:
1. LEDs are only much more efficient than halogens in small devices,
because halogen (or any incandescent) efficiency does not scale to small
devices. For 55w halogen headlights, we're talking 700-1300 lumens for
low beam and the 55w high beam is like 1200-1820.
For example, the Cree part mentioned from AllElectronics (their price is
actually a ripoff IIRC) is 60 lumens @ 1.19W. So we'd need 36W against
the higher end 55W halogen bulb.
2. To run a maximum power, LEDs need a very big heatsink. Now as
things go 36W is not an enormous heatsink for a transistor, but a
transistor can tolerate far more heat. An LED cannot be allowed to get
nearly as hot. Heat slowly (or quickly) degrades the emitter's
performance. And the warmer it is the less efficienct it operates in
the immediate. So the sink needs to keep the device very cool at high
rates of heat transfer which means an enormous sink.
For example, the rated 60 lumen output is when the junction is at 25C.
This isn't going to happen under power unless you're in the arctic. The
device itself will drop 20C between junction and tab under 1.19W load.
If the heatsink cools the device case to 175F- which is a pretty
reasonable situation- the device loses about 12% of its output from
25C. Our required device number and wattage to get 1820 lumens then
goes up to 41W, 35 devices.
3. The Cree device, like many high power devices, emits over a wide
area, 100 deg in this case. Now we have a problem because this is
completely unacceptable for headlights. We can't point them backwards
and hit a reflector like most headlights because the size of the device
array on its heatsink obscures too much of the reflection. A lens would
have to be huge since the device array's going to be like 2"x2" if you
really packed it in (which might be impossible for thermal reasons).
The practical approach might be an array of 35 emitters, each with its
own plastic lens, per side. A lot of the LED mfgs make plastic lenses
for their devices. Aiming 70 devices is also a trick here.
So this is astronomically expensive when you factor in the heatsinks,
and basically the same power is required (we haven't figured in the
driving electronics yet). But all is not lost. There is a HUGE "wow"
factor here. Since many have a goal of promoting EVs, rather than
simply saying "I want to save money for myself, remove my share of
hydrocarbon emissions, and that's the bottom line", this is quite a
valuable aspect.
I can make very efficient, very effective current regulated step-down
drivers for any LED btw.
Danny
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
<<< I was also wondering if anyone is making headlamps with those high power
Luxeon Star K2 5 watt LED's? Seen some bicyclers with some pretty blinding
headlamps.
http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=1811&link_str=330&partno=LXK2-PW14-U00 >>>
I was *just* looking into these! How about this one -- less than half the total
output, but higher efficiency (I like how this site even posts end-users'
reviews of the products) at $11.50 a piece:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/LED-110/340500/ - at the lower level
of 0.35A, this one gives 60 lumens vs luxor's 130 from 1.5A. How many lumens to
equal an "average" headlight (semi-halogen, not HID)?
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