EV Digest 5379
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) EXAR on Ebay
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: How to silence 60 cycle transformer buzz?
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Some problems to solve
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) longest range?
by "Alan Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Otmar's motor speed sensor - where to buy?
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: EVers in Ohio
by "Dr. Polsinelli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Current Eliminator News/no hi power batts.this year
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
8) Re: longest range?
by Tom Hudson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Some problems to solve
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: EV Grin Coming Back
by "Marc Michon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: longest range?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: longest range?
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Otmar's motor speed sensor - where to buy?
by Mark Ward <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Pack cooling/heating conduit
by Fortunat Mueller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Pack cooling/heating conduit
by "Mark Grasser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: longest range?
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Denver (Colorado) EV Council meeting this Saturday
by "David (Battery Boy) Hawkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Registration for electric bike from Canada in Washington state? Maby I 'm
beating a dead horse.
by Tom Watson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Pack cooling/heating conduit
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Pack cooling/heating conduit
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Otmar's motor speed sensor - where to buy?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I had never heard of this car before. item number 4630782855
it looks like a dryed up husk, but the link on the page has some
interesting EV history and it did pass US safety inspection once.
looks like 100miles on a charge , but I haven't looked thru rest of
page(it is fixed size and hard to read scanned documents)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Fourth: suspend the boat anchor from a rope so it doesn't vibrate anything
else.
> Third, is the transformer weakly mounted, so that it can vibrate the
> case or mounting surface like a sounding board? If this is
> the problem,
> leaning on the case or lifting one corner will significantly
> affect the
> sound. Tighten screws, add braces, or make other structural
> improvements
> to the case to fix it.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Oh My! That equalization procedure is a conversation killer. I can stop
bragging about how easy it is to own an EV with this setup, "plug it in
and go to bed"
Is this necessary with AGM's and Regs?
if so, how often?
If I had flooded, I would do this more often?
It sounds like a job for a micro based remote control daughter board :-)
Do you have a source for Kelvin wire? I mean a nice little co-extruded
cable with main conductor and sense wire?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What is the longest range everyone has gotten on their ev? If you've gotten
over 60, definitely let me know.
Thanks, Alan
--
// Quotes from yours truly -------------------------
"You don't forget, you just don't remember."
"Maturity resides in the mind."
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike,
Yes I had to build a plate even though my motor has no tail shaft. It is an old
9" motor from 2000, and the thickness of the alum at the end was too thin to
tap. Also the end of the shaft did not protrude past the bell housing so I had
to tap the shaft for a 1/4 x 20, put some spacers in and then bolt in the
magnet.
I took off the bell end so that I wouldn't get shavings and other dirt in the
motor. I then found the best place for plate, drilled and tapped the holes in
the bell housing and drilled and tapped the holes to mount the sensor to the
plate. Reassembled the motor, installed the plate and sensor.
I am in the process of mounting the motor in the S-10, so I haven't actually
tested it... I'm sure everything will work out fine.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike & Paula Willmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 10:09 PM
Subject: RE: Otmar's motor speed sensor - where to buy?
> This is bolt on if you don't have a tail shaft. If you have a tail shaft
> you'll have to build a plate and stand it off from the face of the motor in
> a way that you can still run the accessories you have planned for the tail
> shaft.
>
> Has anyone done this?
>
> Mike
> Anchorage, Ak.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Nick
> Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 11:08 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Otmar's motor speed sensor - where to buy?
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ryan Stotts wrote:
>> Nick wrote:
>>
>>> Does
>>> anyone know how I can order one of these, or if there is another source?
>>
>> Here:
>>
>> http://www.evsource.com/tls_speedsensor.php
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
72 Mazda
here is the link:
http://www.davisengineering.net/Mazda/Mazda.html
Don't really know what I'm getting into. Let me know if any of you get
together, it would be a good chance for me to learn something.
thanks,
~Michael
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi Michael,
I am in Columbus. I have a 81 VW pickup.
What are you buying ??
Robert Salem
I am new to EV's and am purchasing a used one. I noticed that David is
in Akron. I'm in the Cleveland area. Are there more people or a group
around here?
Thanks!
Michael
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It does not look like the battery co. I was dealing with will have a product
to put in my car till next year.I also heard this last year so its looks like
I will have to make the lead work. Without hi power batteries the CE will not
run 7 second qt.miles. Dennis Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Our NiCD Force gets around 70-75 miles per charge. It should do better
but I suspect I have a weak battery or two.
-Tom
Alan Smith wrote:
What is the longest range everyone has gotten on their ev? If you've gotten
over 60, definitely let me know.
--
Thomas Hudson
http://portdistrict5.org -- 5th District Aldermanic Website
http://portev.org -- Electric Vehicles, Solar Power & More
http://portgardenclub.org -- Port Washington Garden Club
http://portlightstation.org -- Light Station Restoration
http://klanky.com -- Animation Projects
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Jeff,
Try Newark Electronics www.newark.com
There on line catalog is so large and has the largest collections of
products anywhere in the world.
You can call 1-800-718-1998 for very fast info.
You now can see, that I do not use any BMS. Just turn on switch #1 and turn
on the charger and forget it. If using regulators, they should be in the
same atmosphere as the battery for temperature compensation, so a remote
location does not work as good.
I normally have the max voltage setting to 7.2 volts per 6 volt battery at a
battery temperature of 80 F. 7.5 volts at 65 degrees and turn it up to 7.8
volts for a equalization charge.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: Some problems to solve
> Oh My! That equalization procedure is a conversation killer. I can stop
> bragging about how easy it is to own an EV with this setup, "plug it in
> and go to bed"
>
> Is this necessary with AGM's and Regs?
> if so, how often?
> If I had flooded, I would do this more often?
>
> It sounds like a job for a micro based remote control daughter board :-)
>
> Do you have a source for Kelvin wire? I mean a nice little co-extruded
> cable with main conductor and sense wire?
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
you mentioned rust
a very good product for surface rust ,even rust holey areas of body work,
but not where welding
is Rust Mort made by SEM, only sold at auto body shop paint stores
just brush on turns iron oxide into phosphours oxide
a hard black surface, watery will flow into seams treat rust in seams
seals metal from atmosphere
will never rust there again, you can fiberglass over bonbo over paint
no grinding sanding just scrape off big flakes of rust
I did hundreds of GM cars that rust out rear window
with vynal tops
great stuff SAVES LOTS OF TIME getting rid of rust when doing body work
Marco
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 7:07 AM
Subject: EV Grin Coming Back
Hi EVerybody;
FINALLY got the Rabbit back together to take it out for a spin last
nite! Been EV less for a few months, as I HAD to do some remedial work to
get the car reasonably presentable again. Like fix the cabin floor, so it
didn't resemble the Fred Flintstone mobile!Restructuring wall to wall
floors was a major project if you E Ver did any rust repair, you start out
like your friendly dentist to " drill" out the old rot to fil the space
with new structure. The cutting grinder and Saber saw unveil a dismaying
amount of blight pretty quick! Well, actually it wasn't too bad. Braized
in new steel, I don't weld , gas, worth a hoot , so just used coted brass
brazing rods. the temps are a tad more dbenein than gas welding. Electric,
well with my old AC Buzz box? 'Aint THAT good. Needless to say I'm very
pleased with how it turned out. It is sorta fun "Tacking a new steel
piece, heating it cherry red and " Molding" it to fit the wierd contours
of a car floor.
Well, maybe I'm breating a dead horse? But the car had been a faithful
runner for 6 years, and I just want a basic daily dribver again. Not sop
demanding, now, as being retired I won't be pushing it 60 miles or more
EVery day.While it was up on blox, went after OTHER nagging issues; The
Damn VIBRATION thing! Car was beginning to sound like a Diseasel Rabbit
again, as the car had started out life as a Diesel, well, you know. But
that silken ride you EVer's take for granted? It isn't only John Wayland
that had balancing issues with a driveline. Tore down the motor/tranny and
found 8 mm of play in the Moytor shaft and inner bearing race! Doesn't
sound like a lot, but just running the motor on the garage floor? Gees!
What a grinding racket! Had my local machinist build up and cut the shaft
down to 35mm, as ADV had built it years ago, so I have to PREEE on the
bearing, like EVerybody else.What a differance, motor just whispers along,
had him cut the between the brushes ridges !
down, and polish the comm, brushes, plenty left.Would leave the motor
running on 12 volts to reseat the brushes and forget about it, it was so
quiet!
Then to do my flywheel magic. We chucked it into the big lathe and
started cutting. It went on it's weight loss program, from 14 to 6 lbs!
While on a roll here talked to my local VW Garu and to address my clutch
slipping issue we went to a Sirraco pressure plate and disc. Wow! the
clutch is stronger now! Have to PUSH harder to shift, but I'll get used to
that, I'm sure?Put a newer 5 speed in, filled her with the Red auto tranny
fluid, to let it turn easier. Hey John Wayland? What was that stuff you
sent me to get for the Zombie's rear end??It was at your local Speed Shop,
was rather pricy, but was supposed to do good stuff in a Ford Rear end?? I
figure that if it is strong enough to lube Zombies' gears, It would handle
Rabbit gears, just fine? Amzoil? Purple something?It was about 8 bux a
quart, but maybe ya get what you pay for?
Well, after the family Easter Dinner, I decided to push for getting the
wheels to turn again. Hooked up the hypowr cables, controller, charger,
FINALLY built thre PFC 20 in after redecorating under the hood, so both
the Rapter AND trhe PFC live closly together, AND I can close the
hood<g>!They are damn BIG boxes to stuff in there. A new plywood mounting
board went in. I HATE that setup, but I need SOMETHING to stop the water
from splashing into the controller and charger. Like the motor is TOTALLY
covered. You can'tr point to the big black, round thing and say" That's
the Motor" any more.I hope controller maker/ s will build more water
resistant stuff, like Alltrax, they say ya can hose off one of their
controllers? Well, I wouldn't go quite THAT far. It's a harsh environment
under the hood on Any car , for sure!
Poped the fuses in and turned the key! Ah! the familiar windup of a
Rapture! (Rapter) Line switch pulls in and it TURNS! Almost silently.
Gotta go for a spin, to break in the T 145's! Off down the road, did about
3 miles at about 100 amps or less. Grees when the car doesn't have to
fight an inbalance thing, it just wafts along effortlessly. Nio traffic
out I could creep along, 25-30, letting the battery come to life, well
AFTER a long daze equilazation charge, to start with. Bring it in to the
garage, plugitin a few hours and do another couple of miles. I will do my
"Thing" with it today, run some erands, that I woulda used the Gas Rig,
Prius, for.
Lottsa loose ends to do; clean up the wiring a bit, hook up the DC to dc
converter, the vacuum pump, put the cover on the rear battery box, but the
thousand of little details that I had thought I'd wanted to do, but didn't
want to take the car out of service to work on.Gees! the battery's are all
covered! No more short circuses throwing a bike in back, anymore or steel
garbage cans to go to the dump!Have a few holy garbage cans from them
rolling onto the battery posts!Now I have a flat cargo, pass. carrying
area in back, now.
Hava 'bout a weak to get it detailed out to show at a Earth Day(remember
those?) Show that WPKN Radio is doing over in Woodbury CT, just west of
Waterbury. We may be able to round up an EV or two. Bill Glickman wuill
have his 120 volt VW bug ready, too.Any OTHER takers? I know I can count
the number of operating electric cars in CT on the fingers of ONE hand!
Sigh. But we are working on that. Now idf somebody will give Jack Gretta's
MG Midget a loving home. It WAS up on E bay, did anybody on the List buy
it?The ONLY one for sale in Chester, CT.
So , after taking it for a spin, cleaned up the garage, vacuumed the
carpet. What? You don't have a carpeted garage? With an EV you can, mo
drippies, Ah! the luxury! Yeah, your wife may not go for NEW stuff at 45
bux a square yard, but I did my shopping at our friendly dump, which has a
no questions asked exchange policy. Picked up a 12 by 14 or so navy blue,
Soooo nice when working on a car to be on the soft carpet to crawl under
with, and becides, adds a touch of class to any garage<g>!
On the Joliet thing, thinking of bringing the Rabbit now. The more the
merrier! John Wayland just chimed in with a" whose coming from Out West."
Howbout the REST of the country. Matt Greham? Gunna b ring yours up?Would
be cool to see the steller cars from ALL over thre place on one trak!?Bob
Salem, ya GOTTA be there, too?The Shawn Lawless " Fleet" The Netgain Guyz?
I know it's a bit far for Dennis and the Current Eliminater? If I had
Osama's money I would send a charter Cargo Plane all around the country to
do a pickup run<g>! Get Rob Neighbours, our resident pilot, to drive it!
It's morning now, gotta go do a few soft miles 'round the block to wake
up the batteries, do some more " Detail" stuff. It'ssorta like starting
all over witha new EV. It sure is nice to HAVE the EV running again. With
gas at 3 bux plus for the good stuff, regular is still a 285 as I write
this, but with spring here. AHHH, It is beautiful today, in the 60's with
70's promised tomorrow, i'm SURE gas will easily pass 3 bux a gal.
Just reading our local Paper the New Haven Register, big article on the
local CT power chrisis. Seems that they the dundereheads that Deregulated
electricity, forcing the power Co's to SELL their power plants, are having
second thoughts/ DUH! Nobody can build powerplants here in NIMBY land, so
NOBODY did,Christ! You ought to see the fights JUST to string new Hy
tension lines, arounfd here!! to give the local setup any competition. So
now Gasp! It has been suggested that C L, and P, That;'s Conn. Light and
Power,to you tourists, to build some NEW power plants. And if they owned/
ran them, they could provide power at a lesser cost? Well, it workred just
fine since the dawn of the electric age, in Corrupticut or CA or anywhere
else people made electricity, for commercial use. WHYTHEHELL do we have to
repeat history again?With 16 cents , and counting,a KWH nowadaze an EV
will be a costly mode of travel, when ya figure in battery replavcement
and whatnot. After all, we are flyi!
ng under the radar, as Neon John puts it.Hell in OR you have an extra tax
on Hybrids and EV's because they are , well, economical, God forbid! What
next? A tax on the square footage of your solar roof array? :"Revinuers ",
in choppers looking for your solar panels?
Back on topic a bit. I KNOW it's a BIG drive for anyvbody to Illinous,
especially from the far Left Coast. Really appreciate all yuouse guyz are
doing for the Family. Grindingly long daze on the road and 3 bux a gal
gas, but you will still make it. My hat's off to you all and a big THANKS
for putting up with the Drive and doing it.We Least Coasters, Hell,
Chicago IS East coast for you guyz from the Electric Triangle area.That
trip is a pleasure in a Prius, but in a tow rig? Well, long daze on the
road!
Looking forward to a BIG EV time mext month!
Seeya there
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Alan,
The longest drive I had with my a proto type EV, call Transformer I, was 78
miles discharge to 1.140 Specific Gravity using 90 each 2.1 volt 300 AH
cells. At the time the full charge specific gravity would be just over
1.310 sg. This was all city driving at a constant non-stop at 15 to 35 mph.
The EV went through a endurance test before I received it. The batteries
were subject to 300 amps over several hours, to see if the batteries or any
other component breaks down. They did this until it destroy a cell.
Before I received this EV, it was just tested on a track back in Detroit,
which ran 1046 miles in 24 hours. The EFP company wanted to prove that a EV
can be driven over 1000 miles in a day. It average about 44 mph and the
batteries where charge with a very large charging station at 200 amps at 480
volts in 20 minutes to 80%.
On the first run or in the 1st hour, this car ran 90 miles at 60 mph at a
average 200 amps. Another Transformer I ran in the city streets in
Chicago for 152 miles at a much lower speed.
They also competed in the Great Electric Car Race across the country,
competing against MIT, Cal Tech, and other technical groups. EFP was the
only one to complete the run and then drove back to Detroit.
At the time EFP was known as Electric Fuel Propulsion Company. Today they
are known as the Apollo Energy Systems. They produce AFC fuel cells and
cobalt batteries. They produce the designs for a EV system, and is
subcontract to assembly plates for building.
My EV was assemble by the Creative Industrial Plant in Detroit.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:55 AM
Subject: longest range?
> What is the longest range everyone has gotten on their ev? If you've
> gotten
> over 60, definitely let me know.
>
> Thanks, Alan
>
> --
> // Quotes from yours truly -------------------------
> "You don't forget, you just don't remember."
> "Maturity resides in the mind."
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How deep of a DOD do you go to get that range?
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Tom Hudson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Our NiCD Force gets around 70-75 miles per charge. It should do better
> but I suspect I have a weak battery or two.
>
> -Tom
>
> Alan Smith wrote:
> > What is the longest range everyone has gotten on their ev? If
you've gotten
> > over 60, definitely let me know.
> >
> --
> Thomas Hudson
> http://portdistrict5.org -- 5th District Aldermanic Website
> http://portev.org -- Electric Vehicles, Solar Power & More
> http://portgardenclub.org -- Port Washington Garden Club
> http://portlightstation.org -- Light Station Restoration
> http://klanky.com -- Animation Projects
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The problem I see with the type of motor sensor someone referred to is that
they don't accomodate additonal use of the tailshaft.
Does anyone make one that lets you keep using the shaft for other accessories?
Mark Ward
St. Charles, MO
www.saabrina.blogspot.com
---- Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Mike,
>
> Yes I had to build a plate even though my motor has no tail shaft. It is an
> old 9" motor from 2000, and the thickness of the alum at the end was too thin
> to tap. Also the end of the shaft did not protrude past the bell housing so I
> had to tap the shaft for a 1/4 x 20, put some spacers in and then bolt in the
> magnet.
>
> I took off the bell end so that I wouldn't get shavings and other dirt in the
> motor. I then found the best place for plate, drilled and tapped the holes in
> the bell housing and drilled and tapped the holes to mount the sensor to the
> plate. Reassembled the motor, installed the plate and sensor.
>
> I am in the process of mounting the motor in the S-10, so I haven't actually
> tested it... I'm sure everything will work out fine.
>
> Rush
> Tucson AZ
> www.ironandwood.org
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike & Paula Willmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 10:09 PM
> Subject: RE: Otmar's motor speed sensor - where to buy?
>
>
> > This is bolt on if you don't have a tail shaft. If you have a tail shaft
> > you'll have to build a plate and stand it off from the face of the motor in
> > a way that you can still run the accessories you have planned for the tail
> > shaft.
> >
> > Has anyone done this?
> >
> > Mike
> > Anchorage, Ak.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Behalf Of Nick
> > Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 11:08 AM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Re: Otmar's motor speed sensor - where to buy?
> >
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Ryan Stotts wrote:
> >> Nick wrote:
> >>
> >>> Does
> >>> anyone know how I can order one of these, or if there is another source?
> >>
> >> Here:
> >>
> >> http://www.evsource.com/tls_speedsensor.php
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
but note, corrugated plastic is flammable.
I didn't think that would be a problem in an EV (what
burns in an EV?), but it was. When my controller
failed earlier this year, the pressure inside the
controller was enough to make it spit the plastic end
cap (opposite the terminals). This cap landed on my
Coroplast belly pan and was hot enough to ignite it.
I didn't notice until a friendly passerby hollered out
his car window, 'your car is on fire'.
Luckily, I didn't attach the belly pan that well to
the car body so I was able to jump under the car and
rip the burning sheets off the car before anything
else was damaged(adreneline helped).
so, beware.
~fortunat
--- Adrian DeLeon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Coroplast (corrugated polypropylene, correx,
> corroflute, etc.) is
> available in 2, 4, and 10 millimeter thickness. 3mm
> and 6mm are less
> common. A 4'x8' sheet of 4mm runs $15 to $30
> depending on the
> supplier/color. Smaller pieces can be much cheaper
> due to shipping
> restrictions. You can get it FREE from gas
> stations/grocery stores (old
> signs) or after an election - vote for free
> plastic!.
>
> You can use it to block off grilles, as a belly pan,
> flexible spacer, wire
> race, etc. It's also used to make R/C airplanes,
> hamster cages, USPS boxes
> for sorting mail, as shipping/packaging material,
> etc.
>
> Instead of layering 3 or 4 pieces between batteries,
> take a larger piece
> and fold it into a rectangular tube. Use a philips
> screw driver to "score"
> a line before folding (very helpful if folding
> across corrugations). Slots
> can be cut by removing the plastic between
> corrugations. If you made a
> tube that stuck up higher than the surrounding
> batteries you could mount a
> fan directly to it - come to think of it, I might
> need to do this on my
> battery boxes :)
>
> /----\ /--------------\
> | | | open hole |
> F | | to below! |
> A | \--- --------/
> N | /-------\ FAN
> | | |Battery|
> | | | | (top view)
> | | \-------/
> | | ===========
> | | /-------\
> \ / |Battery|
> | |
> \-------/
> (side view)
>
> Corro will warp when it gets warm (in a car in the
> sun), so store it flat.
> Cuts with a utility knife, heavy scissors, X-acto
> knife, etc. Gluing can
> be tricky - Goop is probably the easiest:
>
> Goop/shoe goo - slather it on!
> Gorilla glue/ProBond/poly glue - rough the surface &
> mist with water. If
> possible, poke lots of little holes for the glue to
> seep through and
> create small "rivets". Poly glue expands
> significantly with water.
> Cyanoacrylate/CA/Super glue - Scrub surface with
> mineral spirits or
> "flash" with a propane torch to drive out
> manufacturing oils - be careful!
> Results can be spotty depending on age of glue,
> humidity, etc.
>
> Test glue a few pieces first. With poly glue or CA
> the corro should rip
> before the pieces come apart!
>
> Here are some sources and websites with good
> tips/tricks for working with
> Corro.
>
> www.spadtothebone.com (see corro hinge tool,
> supplier list)
> www.harborsales.net (2,4,6,10mm coroplast)
>
> Good luck!
>
> Adrian
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There are plastics that are self extinguishing. We use a product called
Nyrol. Even when molten and driping in goes out.
Mark Grasser
78 #358
BIG REDs
http://members.rennlist.com/mgrasser
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fortunat Mueller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: Pack cooling/heating conduit
but note, corrugated plastic is flammable.
I didn't think that would be a problem in an EV (what
burns in an EV?), but it was. When my controller
failed earlier this year, the pressure inside the
controller was enough to make it spit the plastic end
cap (opposite the terminals). This cap landed on my
Coroplast belly pan and was hot enough to ignite it.
I didn't notice until a friendly passerby hollered out
his car window, 'your car is on fire'.
Luckily, I didn't attach the belly pan that well to
the car body so I was able to jump under the car and
rip the burning sheets off the car before anything
else was damaged(adreneline helped).
so, beware.
~fortunat
--- Adrian DeLeon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Coroplast (corrugated polypropylene, correx,
corroflute, etc.) is
available in 2, 4, and 10 millimeter thickness. 3mm
and 6mm are less
common. A 4'x8' sheet of 4mm runs $15 to $30
depending on the
supplier/color. Smaller pieces can be much cheaper
due to shipping
restrictions. You can get it FREE from gas
stations/grocery stores (old
signs) or after an election - vote for free
plastic!.
You can use it to block off grilles, as a belly pan,
flexible spacer, wire
race, etc. It's also used to make R/C airplanes,
hamster cages, USPS boxes
for sorting mail, as shipping/packaging material,
etc.
Instead of layering 3 or 4 pieces between batteries,
take a larger piece
and fold it into a rectangular tube. Use a philips
screw driver to "score"
a line before folding (very helpful if folding
across corrugations). Slots
can be cut by removing the plastic between
corrugations. If you made a
tube that stuck up higher than the surrounding
batteries you could mount a
fan directly to it - come to think of it, I might
need to do this on my
battery boxes :)
/----\ /--------------\
| | | open hole |
F | | to below! |
A | \--- --------/
N | /-------\ FAN
| | |Battery|
| | | | (top view)
| | \-------/
| | ===========
| | /-------\
\ / |Battery|
| |
\-------/
(side view)
Corro will warp when it gets warm (in a car in the
sun), so store it flat.
Cuts with a utility knife, heavy scissors, X-acto
knife, etc. Gluing can
be tricky - Goop is probably the easiest:
Goop/shoe goo - slather it on!
Gorilla glue/ProBond/poly glue - rough the surface &
mist with water. If
possible, poke lots of little holes for the glue to
seep through and
create small "rivets". Poly glue expands
significantly with water.
Cyanoacrylate/CA/Super glue - Scrub surface with
mineral spirits or
"flash" with a propane torch to drive out
manufacturing oils - be careful!
Results can be spotty depending on age of glue,
humidity, etc.
Test glue a few pieces first. With poly glue or CA
the corro should rip
before the pieces come apart!
Here are some sources and websites with good
tips/tricks for working with
Corro.
www.spadtothebone.com (see corro hinge tool,
supplier list)
www.harborsales.net (2,4,6,10mm coroplast)
Good luck!
Adrian
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 07:55 AM 4/17/2006, you wrote:
What is the longest range everyone has gotten on their ev? If you've gotten
over 60, definitely let me know.
Thanks, Alan
One of our customers got 126 miles in a rally in a 120V Porsche 914.
Shari Prange
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
DEVC.org is still dead, so for those potential DEVC members in Colorado that don't get a newsletter:
The next DEVC meeting will be a ZENN Ride and Drive at DEVC President Graham Hill's house (North Boulder) on this Saturday, April 22nd, from 8:30 to 11:30 AM. People are invited to bring their EV's to this meeting. Graham lives at 1464 Periwinkle Drive.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi
I gotta say thanks to you all for the info on the licience problem...
great stuff! Especially the "ignorance of the law is no excuse" quote
from Roderick Wilde in Port Townsend! lol
All this brings up another problem though....
What to do about the registration issue... the electric bike is from
Canada and (as far as I know) can't be registered in the states. Any
idea how to handel this?... register it here maby? They don't usually
do that here with bikes. They will be very resistant to the idea!
any suggestions here? TIA
T
-----------------
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 00:14:05 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: license for electric bike in washington state?? tell me
it aint
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Plain Text Attachment [ Download File | Save to Yahoo! Canada
Briefcase ]
> Ahh, so 1kW = 1HP? Still not used to converting electric power
ratings
> to HP.
Not exactly. 1hp = aproximately 746 watts.
However, assuming average efficiency, a motor with 1kw of electrical
imput power will produce approximately 1hp of mechanical output
power.
>
> I'm sure there are some cops that will give you a hard time until
you show that the power level is below 1HP.
Actually, the chances are they won't know and won't care. If you
don't make a nuisance of yourself then they will probably leave you
alone.
Up until they came out with the federal definition of an e-bike
Arizona had no allowance for them. ANYTHING with a motor on it was
considered a moped and required a drivers license.
None of the cops in my town were aware of this nor was anyone at the
DMV. There were numerous unregistered e-bikes, e-scooters, etc.
around and the cops couldn't care less.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of
legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do
whatever I wish with the message. By posting the message you agree
that your long legalistic signature is void.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Is Nyrol shaped like Coroplast?
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mark Grasser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> There are plastics that are self extinguishing. We use a product called
> Nyrol. Even when molten and driping in goes out.
>
>
>
> Mark Grasser
> 78 #358
> BIG REDs
> http://members.rennlist.com/mgrasser
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Fortunat Mueller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 12:47 PM
> Subject: Re: Pack cooling/heating conduit
>
>
> > but note, corrugated plastic is flammable.
> >
> > I didn't think that would be a problem in an EV (what
> > burns in an EV?), but it was. When my controller
> > failed earlier this year, the pressure inside the
> > controller was enough to make it spit the plastic end
> > cap (opposite the terminals). This cap landed on my
> > Coroplast belly pan and was hot enough to ignite it.
> >
> > I didn't notice until a friendly passerby hollered out
> > his car window, 'your car is on fire'.
> >
> > Luckily, I didn't attach the belly pan that well to
> > the car body so I was able to jump under the car and
> > rip the burning sheets off the car before anything
> > else was damaged(adreneline helped).
> >
> > so, beware.
> >
> > ~fortunat
> >
> >
> > --- Adrian DeLeon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >> Coroplast (corrugated polypropylene, correx,
> >> corroflute, etc.) is
> >> available in 2, 4, and 10 millimeter thickness. 3mm
> >> and 6mm are less
> >> common. A 4'x8' sheet of 4mm runs $15 to $30
> >> depending on the
> >> supplier/color. Smaller pieces can be much cheaper
> >> due to shipping
> >> restrictions. You can get it FREE from gas
> >> stations/grocery stores (old
> >> signs) or after an election - vote for free
> >> plastic!.
> >>
> >> You can use it to block off grilles, as a belly pan,
> >> flexible spacer, wire
> >> race, etc. It's also used to make R/C airplanes,
> >> hamster cages, USPS boxes
> >> for sorting mail, as shipping/packaging material,
> >> etc.
> >>
> >> Instead of layering 3 or 4 pieces between batteries,
> >> take a larger piece
> >> and fold it into a rectangular tube. Use a philips
> >> screw driver to "score"
> >> a line before folding (very helpful if folding
> >> across corrugations). Slots
> >> can be cut by removing the plastic between
> >> corrugations. If you made a
> >> tube that stuck up higher than the surrounding
> >> batteries you could mount a
> >> fan directly to it - come to think of it, I might
> >> need to do this on my
> >> battery boxes :)
> >>
> >> /----\ /--------------\
> >> | | | open hole |
> >> F | | to below! |
> >> A | \--- --------/
> >> N | /-------\ FAN
> >> | | |Battery|
> >> | | | | (top view)
> >> | | \-------/
> >> | | ===========
> >> | | /-------\
> >> \ / |Battery|
> >> | |
> >> \-------/
> >> (side view)
> >>
> >> Corro will warp when it gets warm (in a car in the
> >> sun), so store it flat.
> >> Cuts with a utility knife, heavy scissors, X-acto
> >> knife, etc. Gluing can
> >> be tricky - Goop is probably the easiest:
> >>
> >> Goop/shoe goo - slather it on!
> >> Gorilla glue/ProBond/poly glue - rough the surface &
> >> mist with water. If
> >> possible, poke lots of little holes for the glue to
> >> seep through and
> >> create small "rivets". Poly glue expands
> >> significantly with water.
> >> Cyanoacrylate/CA/Super glue - Scrub surface with
> >> mineral spirits or
> >> "flash" with a propane torch to drive out
> >> manufacturing oils - be careful!
> >> Results can be spotty depending on age of glue,
> >> humidity, etc.
> >>
> >> Test glue a few pieces first. With poly glue or CA
> >> the corro should rip
> >> before the pieces come apart!
> >>
> >> Here are some sources and websites with good
> >> tips/tricks for working with
> >> Corro.
> >>
> >> www.spadtothebone.com (see corro hinge tool,
> >> supplier list)
> >> www.harborsales.net (2,4,6,10mm coroplast)
> >>
> >> Good luck!
> >>
> >> Adrian
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Great warning, thanks. There is a fire resistance Coroplast available
that I have read about but not tested yet.
Mike
In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Fortunat Mueller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> but note, corrugated plastic is flammable.
>
> I didn't think that would be a problem in an EV (what
> burns in an EV?), but it was. When my controller
> failed earlier this year, the pressure inside the
> controller was enough to make it spit the plastic end
> cap (opposite the terminals). This cap landed on my
> Coroplast belly pan and was hot enough to ignite it.
>
> I didn't notice until a friendly passerby hollered out
> his car window, 'your car is on fire'.
>
> Luckily, I didn't attach the belly pan that well to
> the car body so I was able to jump under the car and
> rip the burning sheets off the car before anything
> else was damaged(adreneline helped).
>
> so, beware.
>
> ~fortunat
>
>
> --- Adrian DeLeon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Coroplast (corrugated polypropylene, correx,
> > corroflute, etc.) is
> > available in 2, 4, and 10 millimeter thickness. 3mm
> > and 6mm are less
> > common. A 4'x8' sheet of 4mm runs $15 to $30
> > depending on the
> > supplier/color. Smaller pieces can be much cheaper
> > due to shipping
> > restrictions. You can get it FREE from gas
> > stations/grocery stores (old
> > signs) or after an election - vote for free
> > plastic!.
> >
> > You can use it to block off grilles, as a belly pan,
> > flexible spacer, wire
> > race, etc. It's also used to make R/C airplanes,
> > hamster cages, USPS boxes
> > for sorting mail, as shipping/packaging material,
> > etc.
> >
> > Instead of layering 3 or 4 pieces between batteries,
> > take a larger piece
> > and fold it into a rectangular tube. Use a philips
> > screw driver to "score"
> > a line before folding (very helpful if folding
> > across corrugations). Slots
> > can be cut by removing the plastic between
> > corrugations. If you made a
> > tube that stuck up higher than the surrounding
> > batteries you could mount a
> > fan directly to it - come to think of it, I might
> > need to do this on my
> > battery boxes :)
> >
> > /----\ /--------------\
> > | | | open hole |
> > F | | to below! |
> > A | \--- --------/
> > N | /-------\ FAN
> > | | |Battery|
> > | | | | (top view)
> > | | \-------/
> > | | ===========
> > | | /-------\
> > \ / |Battery|
> > | |
> > \-------/
> > (side view)
> >
> > Corro will warp when it gets warm (in a car in the
> > sun), so store it flat.
> > Cuts with a utility knife, heavy scissors, X-acto
> > knife, etc. Gluing can
> > be tricky - Goop is probably the easiest:
> >
> > Goop/shoe goo - slather it on!
> > Gorilla glue/ProBond/poly glue - rough the surface &
> > mist with water. If
> > possible, poke lots of little holes for the glue to
> > seep through and
> > create small "rivets". Poly glue expands
> > significantly with water.
> > Cyanoacrylate/CA/Super glue - Scrub surface with
> > mineral spirits or
> > "flash" with a propane torch to drive out
> > manufacturing oils - be careful!
> > Results can be spotty depending on age of glue,
> > humidity, etc.
> >
> > Test glue a few pieces first. With poly glue or CA
> > the corro should rip
> > before the pieces come apart!
> >
> > Here are some sources and websites with good
> > tips/tricks for working with
> > Corro.
> >
> > www.spadtothebone.com (see corro hinge tool,
> > supplier list)
> > www.harborsales.net (2,4,6,10mm coroplast)
> >
> > Good luck!
> >
> > Adrian
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Cc: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: Otmar's motor speed sensor - where to buy?
> The problem I see with the type of motor sensor someone referred to is
> that they don't accomodate additonal use of the tailshaft.
>
> Does anyone make one that lets you keep using the shaft for other
> accessories?
Yes, Otmar sent me a eight small magnets and a sensor me to construct and
test out.
My tail shaft or call a pilot shaft, ran a accessory drive through a
electric clutch.
I constructed a 1/4 inch thick by 3 inch diameter aluminum disk. Split it
in half, so it can go around the 1-1/8 shaft that was connect to the pilot
shaft.
Bolt this disk onto a temporary backing plate before you drill the holes for
the magnets, so you can maintain a true magnet circle. After you drill the
magnets hole, than you can cut the disk to the 3 inch size.
Drill four holes 90 degrees apart on the disk on a 2.5 inch circle with a
1/4 drill that has a flat cutting edge to only 1/8 inch depth into the
aluminum disk. Then drill all the way threw with a 1/8 inch drill.
Drill four more holes right next to the other magnet holes, because the
sensor needed more on time than a 1/4 sweep of the sensor across the magnet.
The magnets punch in tight. The 1/8 inch hole is for allowing air to escape
and to push out the magnets if only 4 magnets are only needed for a 1/4 inch
sweep.
I install all eight magnets which gives a 1/2 inch width of magnets on a 2.5
inch diameter circle. This become 7.85 inches in circumference.
The eight magnets take up 4 x 0.5 = 2 inches. 7.85-2 = 5.85 inches of
space. 5.85/4 = 1.46 inches of space between the magnets.
The maximum space between magnets is a ratio of 3 to 1, so for magnets width
of 0.5 inch the space between the magnets cannot be over 1.5 inches.
So the eight 1/4 inch diameter magnets with a 1.46 inch space was just
right. The off pulse signal must be at least 2.5 to 3 time more than the on
pulse going to the Hairball to the Zilla.
This aluminum disk is than install on a steel split shaft collar that you
can pick up from a place that sells bearings, pulleys, shafts etc.
Bolt the split aluminum disk onto the split shaft collar turning it so the
aluminum disk and shaft collar half sections are all not on the same
section.
There is 3 wire coming out of the sensor. My was red, green and black. The
red wire to # 19, green wire to #20 and black (grd) to #22 for a one sensor
unit.
The wire from the Hairball to the sensor should be a shielded type. The
shield at both ends are also connected to chassis ground and the black
(gnd).
If you are using a tachometer, you connect the tach wire to No. 11 on the
Hairball. If you have a multi engine tach, this adjust it for a 4 cylinder
engine.
In the option menu for the hairball, you must turn on (a) and turn off (k)
so you can get a rpm reading on a tach.
You can also turn off (a) and turn on (k) which then the tach will read the
motor amps like a amp meter.
This is the mode I am keeping it in now, AMPS ON TACH, The tach is a large
one which is right in front of me, and the motor amps is more critical for
me than the rpm for now. I know what the rpm is by looking at the mph
indicator in any gear ratio.
Roland
>
> Mark Ward
> St. Charles, MO
> www.saabrina.blogspot.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---- Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Mike,
> >
> > Yes I had to build a plate even though my motor has no tail shaft. It is
> > an old 9" motor from 2000, and the thickness of the alum at the end was
> > too thin to tap. Also the end of the shaft did not protrude past the
> > bell housing so I had to tap the shaft for a 1/4 x 20, put some spacers
> > in and then bolt in the magnet.
> >
> > I took off the bell end so that I wouldn't get shavings and other dirt
> > in the motor. I then found the best place for plate, drilled and tapped
> > the holes in the bell housing and drilled and tapped the holes to mount
> > the sensor to the plate. Reassembled the motor, installed the plate and
> > sensor.
> >
> > I am in the process of mounting the motor in the S-10, so I haven't
> > actually tested it... I'm sure everything will work out fine.
> >
> > Rush
> > Tucson AZ
> > www.ironandwood.org
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mike & Paula Willmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 10:09 PM
> > Subject: RE: Otmar's motor speed sensor - where to buy?
> >
> >
> > > This is bolt on if you don't have a tail shaft. If you have a tail
> > > shaft
> > > you'll have to build a plate and stand it off from the face of the
> > > motor in
> > > a way that you can still run the accessories you have planned for the
> > > tail
> > > shaft.
> > >
> > > Has anyone done this?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > Anchorage, Ak.
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Behalf Of Nick
> > > Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 11:08 AM
> > > To: [email protected]
> > > Subject: Re: Otmar's motor speed sensor - where to buy?
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > Ryan Stotts wrote:
> > >> Nick wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> Does
> > >>> anyone know how I can order one of these, or if there is another
> > >>> source?
> > >>
> > >> Here:
> > >>
> > >> http://www.evsource.com/tls_speedsensor.php
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
--- End Message ---
