EV Digest 5561
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: buildup on battery terminal - why?
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Suitable weights...
by Nikki Bloomfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: City Range
by "mike young" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: PBS Tonight: "Who Killed the Electric Car?"
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) "Who Killed ..." To be Featured on .. "NOW" Fiday Nite PBS
by Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: Suitable weights...
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: Suitable weights...
by "Michael" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Air Bags: was Re: Honda to Stop Making Insights
by "Tim Clevenger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: Air Bags: was Re: Honda to Stop Making Insights
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Electric Auto Association mentioned in July's Popular Mechani
cs
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Suitable weights...
by Rich Long <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Suitable weights...
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: PHEV - speed?
by Chet Fields <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Temperature sensor for SAFT NiCds
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Scrounging for cheap EV parts
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: buildup on battery terminal - why?
by Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: PBS Tonight: "Who Killed the Electric Car?"
by Don Buckshot <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Electric/EV basic knowledge
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) re:Suitable weights...
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) re: Suitable weights...
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Air Bags: was Re: Honda to Stop Making Insights
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Another way to get isolated DC-DC....
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Electric Motorcycle conversions on Ebay.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) How hard is it to make batteries
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: ADC Speed Sensor Mount with Warp9 Tailshaft
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) new batteries!
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Still more fun with powerwheels and hawkers (the batteries that won't die!)
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Fiero - Weights and airbags
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Suitable weights...
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Air Bags: was Re: Honda to Stop Making Insights
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Compound & Sep Ex
by "Jack Knopf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Myles Twete wrote:
> Yeah, but the EV 'spurts on this list will tell you that's
> also foolish. They'll tell ya to put 2 nuts on that stud
> and then with 2 wrenches, compress your lug between 'em.
> And yeah, it's a good idea...but I haven't done it yet...
Those 'spurts would be wrong.
As Roland notes, the bolts are stainless steel and are not intended to
carry the current. You must have the lug in direct contact with the
battery terminal or else it will heat up excessively.
I had a battery post start melting into the battery case after about an
hour with just 75A load being drawn, simply because the tech who
connected the pack up left a single steel washer between the lug and the
lead terminal.
If you are drawing largish currents from your batteries, don't use the
golf car/marine style studs for making your high-current connections.
Get batteries with SAE posts and use standard automotive style clamps,
or get the flat ("flag", I believe they're called) style terminals that
you can bolt your lug flat up against by putting a bolt through. Use
Belleville spring washers on any bolted connection to help keep them
tight.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks guys...
Anyone want to guess at how heavy a 1.1 litre A series engine? - it's
the same as you get in a mini or sprite (but without the gearbox)
Nikki
On 9 Jun 2006, at 18:09, David Dymaxion wrote:
Great engine weights table:
<http://www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html>
LT1 Chevy V8, 650 lbs
2.7 L Porsche 911 motor, 450 lbs
Gasoline is about 6 lbs per gallon (~0.75 kg / liter)
Plus don't forget weight for removing the radiator, exhaust, and gas
tank.
--- Nikki Bloomfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
So I'm finally sorting out the calculations needed for my car's
conversion, but it's just struck me: I know what the car's stock
weight is but I don't have a clue how much the ICE components
weigh!
What's worse is that while i've taken them out I don't have any way
to weigh them.
Since the weight of the car's electric components obviously will
affect the final forces needed (but the choice of the components
will
be made working out how much force is required to accelerate the
car...) what do I do?
So far, my calculations (I've only got as far as working out
required
acceleration forces) are using the car's stock weight. Of course,
until I have decided what the batteries, controller and motor will
be
I can't give a weight to the car from which I can then work out the
required forces. It all seems a little "chicken and the egg". Help!
Do people normally work on the values with their ICE stock car
weight
to give a rough idea, or do I need to add a few extra hundred
pounds?
Sorry I'm being thick. I've just realised that my Physics exam (way
back in 1998) seems a loooong time ago!
Still, I've finally figured out the required forces in both Newtons
and lb force for the stock car!
Regards
Nikki
P.S. I know there are calculators out there which do it all for
you,
but I'm the sort of gal who HATES to just be given a figure. I like
to know exactly HOW that figure is calculated!
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ive been gettin 40 miles regularly with a little to spare with this 95
solectria force with 144 v lead acid..That is driving like a grandpa and a
few ice drivers giving me the one finger solute to which I reply with an ev
grin and a wave. Mike young
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 1:00 PM
Subject: City Range
Hi, I get 30 miles
range in all my vehicles I've had. People who claim much more than that
are usually smoking "Lefty Lucky's". Over the years I've had a
Commuta-Car, Electro-Metro
Geo Tracker, Bombardier and now a Cushman all using flooded golf
cart batteries. Best range is achieved at the 40% battery weight ratio
and
better range can be had of course with Ni-Cads, NiMh's or Li-Ion's if you
have deep pockets.
Best Regards,
Mark
Date:
Thu, 8 Jun 2006 13:23:31 -0500
From: "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To:
ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: City Range (Was Conversion on eBay)
Plain Text Attachment [ Scan and Save to Computer | Save to Yahoo!
Briefcase ]
At 15MPH you can get a long way :) But seriously, how much range are
people getting for city driving from their EVs? I always hear the highway
range quoted. What are people getting in the city? -Mike On
6/8/06, Michaela Merz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Claims to have a
range of up to 150 Miles with 20 Trojans 125s. Now - I > don't know if
that would even be possible in theory (other then rolling > down hill),
but the buyer sure will be in for quite a suprise :( On the > other
hand: He is asking 23,000 with 'Reserve Not Met' - I doubt he/she >
will be able to sell the truck for that price anyway. > > Michaela > >
> > > Is the seller on the list? > > > >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4647644891
> > > > A little rich for me, but I certainly like the paint scheme on
that > > expansion > > box for battery space - a little galaxy sitting
in the bed!
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for the Link- FYI in Arizona PBS Channel 8 will broadcast this at 7:30
pm in the Phoenix area.
jmygann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: http://www.pbs.org/now/shows/223/index.html
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Seattle ! SET your VCR's For I know all of you will be seeing the
Film LIVE - Tonight... at the Egyption Theatere, 7pm.
Couch Potaties ? Check your Local Listings for " Now"
NOW
> Friday, June 9, 2006 on PBS
> Check local listings at www.pbs.org/now/sched.html
>
> ==================================================================
>
>
> "Who Killed the Electric Car"
>
> Did car companies sabotage one of their most fuel
> efficient and environmentally-friendly products
> because it stood in the way of big profits? A new
> documentary by filmmaker Chris Paine charts the
> promising life and untimely death of the electric car,
> and lays blame at the door of some powerful suspects.
>
> NOW sits down with Paine to look under the hood
> of America's automotive and oil industries and
> uncover who really pulled the plug on electric cars,
> and why.
>
>
> ==================================================================
>
> NOW Online
>
> The NOW Web site follows up this week's show with
> exclusive features and up-to-date information, including:
>
> Timeline: Life & Death of the Electric Car
> www.pbs.org/now/shows/223/electric-car-timeline.html
>
> In Depth: The Rise of the Hybrid
> www.pbs.org/now/shows/223/hybrid-car.html
>
> Action Step: Tips on Conserving Fuel
> www.pbs.org/now/shows/223/conserving-fuel.html
>
> Q&A: Daniel Sperling on Cars of the Future
> www.pbs.org/now/shows/223/conserving-fuel.html
>
> All this, plus an incredible archive of in-depth infor-
> mation and deep insight on the issues most important
> to you, at www.pbs.org/now
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nikki Bloomfield wrote:
> So I'm finally sorting out the calculations needed for my car's
> conversion, but it's just struck me: I know what the car's stock
> weight is but I don't have a clue how much the ICE components weigh!
> What's worse is that while i've taken them out I don't have any way
> to weigh them.
What I did for mine was to use a standard bathroom scale with a lever
and fulcrum and weighed each corner of the car stock and then again
after removing the ICE-related components. (And again with the batteries
temporarily placed into their proposed locations.)
With the car on a level surface, jack up each corner of the car and
place blocks under each tire equal to the height of your scale with the
lever on it. Then, substitute the scale and lever arrangement under
each wheel in turn and record the corner weights. You can test the
actual multiplication factor of your lever/fulcrum by weighing yourself
standing on the lever vs standing on the scale normally.
TTTTT <- tire
v
+===================================+ <-lever
^ ========= <-two pairs of metal
=== o o dowels at right angles
=== XXXXXXXXXXXXX <-scale
Use two pairs of metal dowels at right anlgle to each other between the
lever and the scale as a bearing to prevent binding of the scale
mechanism due to the car shifting sideways or fore/aft slightly as you
lower the tire onto the lever.
Most bathroom scales read to about 300lbs. I used a lever/fulcrum
arrangement to reduce the weight on the scale to about 1/2 to 2/3 of the
tire weight so that the scale would read about its mid-range (for best
accuracy) with 400-500lbs on the tire.
My lever was a rectangle of bolted together 1"x1/8" steel angle; the
fulcrum was a bit of angle on laying with its corner facing up such that
the thin edge of one end of the lever rested on it, with blocks under
this to make the lever level. The thin edge of the other end of the
lever rested on the topmost pair of dowels on the scale. This
establishes the working length of the lever reliably.
I bolted a hinge to the lever at the appropriate point and attached a
little platform to it for the tire to rest on. This establishes the
other important lever dimension (distance from fulcrum to where the load
is applied to the lever) as the distance between the fulcrum and the
hinge pin.
Multiply the weight displayed on the scale by the ratio of the two
distances and you'll have the weight on that corner of the car, good to
+/- a few pounds.
Many people weigh each thing they remove from the car individually, but
at the end of the day I don't think you really care how heavy the
radiator or exhaust pipe was, you just care about how heavy the parts
that you didn't remove are. Weighing each corner like this also allows
you to experiment with battery location to see if putting batteries here
or there will result in some undesirable change in the front/rear or
left/right distribution.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> So far I have 7.25 lbs of just dirt and rust that has fallen off the car
> in
> the process of dismantling it.
> Later,
> Wire
<g> I like that.
If you car weighs less than 2500 lbs, you might get by weighing it.
Personally, I used 2 bathroom scales, w/ a 2x4 across them. Lower each
wheel onto the double scale for a reasonably accurate measurement. (You
can pick them up at garage sales and/or Goodwill.)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Mike,
Usually the sensors are calibrated based on tested crash statistics for the
car, so I don't think I'd just grab some components and run with them.
However, if a later model of the Fiero had airbags, you could probably
safely retrofit them into an earlier model (with substantially the same
frame, body and weight, that is.)
Tim
----
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2006 10:51:46 -0500
From: "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Air Bags: was Re: Honda to Stop Making Insights
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
This brings up a question. One of the issues I've been thinking about
with my fiero conversion is saftey systems. I am planning to put in
racing harnesses, but the Fiero never got air bags. Has anyone
retrofitted newer stearing wheels with airbags, along with the
required sensors, into an older car?
-Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tim Clevenger wrote:
> Usually the sensors are calibrated based on tested crash
> statistics for the car, so I don't think I'd just grab
> some components and run with them.
> However, if a later model of the Fiero had airbags, you
> could probably safely retrofit them into an earlier model
> (with substantially the same frame, body and weight, that
> is.)
I would advise against installing airbags on a vehicle that didn't have
them originally, and would even suggest that it may be safer to disable
the airbags on a conversion than to leave them active.
The sensors are calibrated to deploy the airbags based on the
relationship between the magnitude of deceleration at the sensor
location and the deceleration that would translate to at the passenger
compartment of the vehicle. Whether or not you believe airbags enhance
safety or not, it is unarguable that they can only perform as designed
if the proper sensors are installed at the proper locations and if the
vehicle body deforms as it was designed to. When we convert our
vehicles, we alter the weight distribution and stiffness/crumple zone
behaviour such that it is unlikely that even the original airbag system
will deploy in the way it was designed to.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've seen quite a number of articles mentioning the 150mpg (I think up
to 250 mpg) plug-in Prius.
I dislike the misstatement of mpg. It's not mpg, it's just a few
non-gasoline miles which are infinity mpg. It's of course inaccurate in
that you cannot travel 1500 miles on 10 gal.
Prob is people who didn't read or didn't remember the whole story are
starting to get all weird thinking there's a magical carb, engine, or
something that the oil companies are keeping down. Basically magical
thinking again. I've heard a number of people with this misconception now.
I can see they wanted to use the mpg figure to better explain it to lay
people, but I think they ended up giving lay people more
misconceptions. Moreover, they remove the understanding that the free
miles are all because it's an electric vehicle. The utility of the EV
needs to be promoted and misconceptions that it's slow, weak, and
generally of useless range need to be addressed, not avoided entirely by
restating it as a false mpg figure.
Danny
Cor van de Water wrote:
Rich,
We know how hard you work and appreciate it.
But hold your horses on this one.
First, they did not say they already had a kit.
Second they claim 150 MPG which has no relation to 150 mi range.
You can get 150MPG in the first mile with the existing
battery in the Prius in EV mode.
All they do is add more battery to make it go a few miles
longer in EV mode and EVen boost it when the gas engine
comes on. This also requires some additional electronics.
The range is not so critical as with a full EV because
when you run out of juice, the car is still moving, so
you can ompimize it for your average distance per day,
which is around 30 miles for most of us.
Regards,
Cor van de Water
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If there's a place near you that sells gravel or buys scrap iron they
weigh you on the way in and on the way out. I'm sure if you asked
nicely ($) they'd weigh your vehicle or a truck filled with all your
discarded bits.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There is some good info on calculating weights and balance and such
on a conversion at:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/tech/balance.html
It includes tables that breakdown components as a percentage of the
curb weight. While not perfect it beats the heck out of guessing.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
In medio stat virtus - Virtue is in the moderate, not the extreme
position. (Horace)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am reading a lot about PHEVs, but everything I have read says the top speed
> in all electric mode is 34 MPH.
This is particularly for the Prius' EV Mode, NOT electric only mode. The Prius
is capable of electric only mode at higher speeds up to about 42mph where it
needs to start the ICE spinning as, because of the planetary gearing, the
second motor generator would be spinning over 10,000 RPM. However, it can still
stay in electric only, (NO spark or fuel) even higher (the term warp-stealth
has been coined to describe it), as long as the current draw does not exceed a
level determined by the state of charge of the battery. Granted this does not
take too long as the battery capacity is severely limited (at least in EV
terms).
> Is anyone working on a way to increase the max speed in all electric mode?
What some are trying to do is to allow another battery pack paralleled in with
the Prius Hybrid pack (Or some by replacing it altogether) that has a greater
capacity, therefore allowing the higher current to be drawn for longer periods
of time.
EV Mode basically does the following:
** Stops the initial warm up of the ICE.
** Allows for greater current draw on the battery (Although also limited)
** Allows for greater depth of discharge of the battery (Although also limited)
If either of the latter 2 are exceeded however, it kicks out of EV Mode and
reverts to normal operation.
In normal operation, once the ICE and catalytic converter are warmed up (Which
really only takes about a minute in a Prius that has been run in that last day
or so), then the system decides to run in electric only mode if the conditions
are right; low enough current draw, sufficient state of charge, etc.
What would be nice is if the EV Mode's increased parameters were available even
though the car is running in normal mode and warmed up. That way the extra
power a larger battery pack can give would give you even more 'electric only'
driving even over the 34 mph limit.
The Prius was designed to be a hybrid and it's battery management and planetary
CVT are integral to making it work as such. Both of these factors make it
difficult to use as a higher speed EV.
HTH,
Chet
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does anyone have a spare temp sensor for the
SAFT STM NiCds?
Apparently the Saft P/N is 280071.
Thanks,
Nick
Dr Nick Carter,
I have been told that the sensor uses just a LM335.
hth,
--
-Otmar-
914 EV, California Poppy,
http://evcl.com/914/
http://www.CafeElectric.com/
The Zilla factory has moved to Corvallis Oregon.
Now accepting resumes. Please see:
http://www.cafeelectric.com/jobs.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Scan the Trading Post. You may see a late model Dodge
Omni or Ford Escort, Datsun Whatever where the
converter put in a nice overpowered controller, but
has too few batteries. If he also has a DCDC
converter, heater, main contactor, circuit breaker,
et. al, you're better off taking his unwanted body
style and yanking the parts to put in your preferred
model. With all respect due them, if it's cheaper than
4K, figure another 2K for upgrading the suspension of
the rig you want, plus the adapter plate, and you
still come out ahead of the 8K it costs to purchase
separately.
peace,
--- Patrick Maston <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Check with [EMAIL PROTECTED] He used to make
> electric vehicles for Hollywood and has lots of used
> parts.
>
> Patrick
>
>
> >From: "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >Subject: Scrounging for cheap EV parts
> >Date: Fri, 09 Jun 2006 07:46:20 -0500
>
> >What sites have those here used to find used
> electric
> >motors, controllers, and the like?
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Myles Twete wrote:
Yeah, but the EV 'spurts on this list will tell you that's also foolish.
They'll tell ya to put 2 nuts on that stud and then with 2 wrenches,
compress your lug between 'em. And yeah, it's a good idea...but I haven't
done it yet...
Actually... I think most of the experts will tell you not to use a stud
for a connection. Stick to lugs or automotive clamps.
Mark
-Myles
!DSPAM:44897db6109541440117360!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks, really helps.
They even offer to send reminder Emails ...
Don
jmygann wrote:
http://www.pbs.org/now/shows/223/index.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Death to all spammers(by the way, what is your name?) said
"
Ya got that right! E.g.-Lee discusses a basic LED circuit as a step up
from a 2-needle meter and the inginiirs have a field day discussing
advanced components for it! I'd never say don't read their posts, just
let your eyes go a little out of focus and the technospeak goes faster!"
I take exception to this comment becasue I am not an EE and Althought the LED
is an alternative, it it difficult to claim it is a step up from a 2 needle
movement. Lee has got the smarts, the experiance and most importantly the
attitude to freely help us out. (ps, he is the engineer :-) ) What I was
suggesting was the minimum electronics needed to be at least as good as the
dual needle and what I thought was the only way to achieve it, abstract the
display for the data collection and use it to display more than one thing or
more than one way.
I also found this thread very informative!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
We have a big scale at work so I weight everything I took out.
Just a single data point, the 1987 300zx curb weight 3000lbs
tranny is 100 lbs even and I kept it
motor was 397lbs including flywheel and clutch, warp 9 was 165+12lbs
for my clutch = 220lbs lighter
20 gallons of gas would be ~160lbs
= 160 lbs ligther
maybe another 100lbs for exhaust,fuel lines, radiator.
= 100 lbs lighter
about 480 lbs lighter added 1000# of lead and another 100 in cables an
racks +17lb for charger and 13lb controller
=3650
Well I took it and had it weighed and it weighed 4050 including driver
cleaning out the tools and myself yielded 3700 lbs.(ok, time to go on a
diet :-( )
"P.S. I know there are calculators out there which do it all for you,
but I'm the sort of gal who HATES to just be given a figure. I like to
know exactly HOW that figure is calculated! "
AMEN!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You could always do something like this to measure the heavier stuff
ebay item number 4646919442
ie
___________
_______engine_____________________________| /\
F scale
|----1----|----------------4--------------------|
Calibrate this by stnding on the scale, then setting up the offset and
standing at the engione point and multiply * 4
:-) This can be done with a 4x4 fulcrum, 4x4 "beam" and a 2x4 scale
disperser.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
mike said "... Has anyone retrofitted newer stearing wheels with
airbags, along with the
required sensors, into an older car?
The air bag is designed in conjuction with the seat belt system. The bag
is suppose to be completetly inflated just before the belts have
stretched to the specified limit (about 4") Kind of a handing off of the
work of saving your life. AS everyone knows(except hollywood) the bags
have huge slits and deflate very very fast. The squibs fire relative to
a certain shock load and is related to the vehicle weight. See what
cars have interchangeable columns and maybe it can be done.
But how do you test it?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Phillips wrote:
>
> It apprears that the main board layers themselves are suffering damage
> as well. I wanted to put some isolation between the main board's
> output to the fets, and the fets. There are some 20ga-ish wires
> leading from the main board to the fets. Snipping them and inserting a
> board with some components is my goal.
At the last place I worked, we put the drivers on a little PC board that
mounted directly on the IGBTs. If the IGBT failed, this driver board was
also replaced. It had a little high frequency transformer, rectifier,
gate driver IC, and two optocouplers, very much as you described.
For a little circuit that you can put in between the existing driver and
logic, I'd try an SCR, zener diode, and fuses. SCR anode to IGBT gate,
SCR cathode to IGBT emitter, 18v zener between IGBT gate and SCR gate,
and a 1k resistor from SCR gate to SCR cathode. Two fast fuses connect
this circuit to the existing wires from you control board to IGBT gate
and emitter.
If anything causes the IGBT gate to go more positive than 20v, the SCR
triggers "on", shorts the gate (turning the IGBT off), and blows the
fuses to cut that IGBT out of the driver circuit.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Both of these vehicles are in the EV photo album.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Other-Makes-Electric-Electric-Yamaha-Vision-C
ustom-Conversion-96-volt_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6719QQihZ002QQitemZ46484
55736QQrdZ1 Yamaha
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/141 Ev album entry.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Other-Makes-Honda-Electric-Electric-Honda-Mot
orcycle-Custom-Conversion-48-volt_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6719QQihZ002QQi
temZ4648450531QQrdZ1 Honda
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/414 Honda EV photo album entry.
It seems that sometimes very nice conversions make it to ebay and these two
are indeed very nice especially the Yamaha. LR.....
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Someone asked this question not to long ago.
I looked into the makeing of lithium ion, like the thundersky batteries.
basically
2 chemicals are purchased as powder.
each chemical is mixed with a binder, new binders are water based
solving lots of issues.
anode material spread on one plate, cathod material spread on other.
the plates are run thru rollers and dried.
high amp lower energy density use etched plates, lower amp higher
energy density use fine mesh screen.
dried plates are assembled in an inert gas atmosphere with the seperator
into the case with the plates connected to the posts. This is a
sandblaster like cabinet pressure filled with argon.
The battery is sealed except for the fill tube and a vacuum is drawn
while the battery sits on a scale.
The vacuum pump is shut off and the seal is verified then a valve is
openened allowing it to draw in electorlyte until full.
Oxygen with the electrolyte is dangerous and or will cause a quick
contamination of the anode surfaces and the litium salts.
Then the battery must recieve a commisioning charge. This is a special
charge and I don't know this info yet.
My interest switched to lipoly at this point.
Nicad can be made the same way, i hear, but no oxgen free environment
requirement.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sorry, that should say 1/2" Steel Tubing, which is 3/8" inside diameter.
Fits with a small amount of play over the 5/16" bolts. :-O
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Mike & Paula Willmon
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 9:59 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: ADC Speed Sensor Mount with Warp9 Tailshaft
Those who plan to use the ADC speed sensor with ambitions of driving an
auxiliary pulley on the tail shaft may be interested in this solution. I
posted pics on my EVALBUM page but I won't leave them there indefinitely.
Pull them off if you want them, I'll change them in a couple weeks. I cut
the aluminum plate with a cuttoff wheel on my table saw. Layed out the bolts
with a compass with a steel tip. Used (4 each) 2.125" length of 1/4" steel
tubing to go over the 5/16" X 3" bolts. I have room to mount a pulley as
long as the auxiliary device allows the belt to be routed above and below
the side bolt.
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/756
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm ecstatic! Today, I arrived home to 22 individually boxed PS-121000
batteries stacked neatly in my garage. Yesterday I got the correct
coil economizers and hooked them up (by the way, the ones they sent
earlier were for 24V coils. The correct ones can take a logic input
but work just fine without it). It's getting harder to say "I'm
waiting on a part..." when asked when I'll be done. It won't be long
now! (Just battery racks, charger, regs, wiring, heater relays, A/C
motor mounting, and an interior rebuild to go. Oh, yes, and a front
brake upgrade, custom springs, drop the engine cradle to work on the
clutch, and replace the cradle bushings..............) OK, maybe it
isn't that close, but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel (but
what's that choo-choo sound?)
Dave Brandt
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On another note, I'm back to renovating powerwheels. My wife suggested
we get the one from the thrift store for $2 so the kids' friends could
play with them when they come over. Ordered 2 surplus 12V 13 Ah
batteries (a brand I'd never heard of, but similar size and capacity to
the Hawker Genesis 13 Ah batteries) from surpluscenter.com, slipped one
in each of the unpowered powerwheels, and I'm done. They even came
with the proper terminals (I put push-on terminals on all my
powerwheels for easy interchangeability). Of course there was the
matter of keeping the wheels from falling off of one of them. I wound
up drilling a 1/8" hole through the axle at each end, and securing the
wheels with a washer and a cotter pin rather than the push-on nut they
come with.
They were unpowered for a while because I had used the Hawker G13EP
batteries for other things. Those batteries are nearly invulnerable!
I bought 4 surplus like 5 years ago, and I wish I'd bought more. They
were first used in the powerwheels for the kids, and I had a spare for
each vehicle. Three times I jump started an ICE vehicle with a
powerwheels! Then I needed a new battery for the riding lawnmower, so
one went in there. Then there were those hurricanes which required
occasional generator power, and we needed a starter battery for that,
and we needed them to run fans overnight during that time, too. Now,
one is the aux. battery for the Fiero, one is still in the mower, one
is in a powerwheels, and one is the 12V battery for the EV go-kart.
Don't overcharge 'em and they last and last!
Dave Brandt
David Brandt
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks to Peter for the following info.:
'V6 engine from a fiero with no intake / accessories / fluids on / in
it
weighs 257 lbs. Exaust system (muffler, cat, pipes, headers) weighs
47.75
lbs.'
That's heavier than I thought (of course half my exhaust system was
rotted away:-). Does that include the million gallons of antifreeze in
the tubes/hoses that run under the car? I swear it could have filled a
second container with what was left after draining the system and
removing the engine :-)
'So far I have 7.25 lbs of just dirt and rust that has fallen off the
car in
the process of dismantling it.'
I think I'm about even with you there. Didn't know whether to count
the rotted insulation as dirt or not, though, and I included the pine
straw and acorns :-)
Mike wrote:
'This brings up a question. One of the issues I've been thinking about
with my fiero conversion is saftey systems. I am planning to put in
racing harnesses, but the Fiero never got air bags. Has anyone
retrofitted newer stearing wheels with airbags, along with the
required sensors, into an older car?'
I would think any system that used discrete electronic components would
be feasible to transplant (i.e. if it didn't go through the car's main
computer), *but* a lot more goes into the setup of an airbag system
than merely having all the parts, like the distances between the wheel
and the driver, the steering wheel angles, etc. They position it
carefully and tune the pressure that is generated and the rate at which
it is generated to the particular car to maximize effectiveness and
minimize the chance of hurting you when it goes off. I would hesitate
to transplant one into a car that didn't have one in the first place.
Dave Brandt
David Brandt
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yep... or look around for weigh stations. There's one near our house that is
owned by Kingsford. It's locked up at night, but the meter is visible
through the glass. (There's another at the gravel company.)
They may not be 100% accurate weighing in such a light load, but close
enough.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Long" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RE: Suitable weights...
> If there's a place near you that sells gravel or buys scrap iron they
> weigh you on the way in and on the way out. I'm sure if you asked
> nicely ($) they'd weigh your vehicle or a truck filled with all your
> discarded bits.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you are putting in a racing harness (properly mounted) you are far safer
than using airbags... assuming the frame and other members can handle the
crush of all that extra EV weight. IMHO, airbags are mostly a fix for people
who don't want to be properly strapped in, in a car that isn't properly
designed for a full crash. Basically, a way to make any design reasonably
safe at 55 MPH, combined with single point (passive) shoulder harnesses.
One thing to consider in the Fiero is where your batts are placed and how
they are tied down. An air bag is not going to help you much if 300 lbs of
batts come flying up with megatons of force. <g> Many modern cars have the
engine mounted so it'll break loose and go under the car in a severe front
impact. Front mounted batts may do the same... but rear batts are a question
mark. If their COG is such that they'll be forced under the passenger
compartment, then they may be safe. Those inside the compartment are safe...
so long as there is no collision. Afterwards, it's a question mark.
You might also wish to consider rear end collisions... and beef up the
springs/shocks/bumper for this sort of impact. A reclining seat offers great
protection... as it's usually designed to fold back in a rear collision. The
car will be totaled, but the driver can usually walk away.
> From: "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Air Bags: was Re: Honda to Stop Making Insights
> This brings up a question. One of the issues I've been thinking about
> with my fiero conversion is saftey systems. I am planning to put in
> racing harnesses, but the Fiero never got air bags. Has anyone
> retrofitted newer stearing wheels with airbags, along with the
> required sensors, into an older car?
>
> -Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Is a compound wound motor the same as a separately exited motor?
--- End Message ---
