EV Digest 5594
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: Dragtimes Featured Car of the Month
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: What the limiting factor up a hill
by "Garret Maki" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: mini monster garage
by "Garret Maki" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: Zilla DAQ 4 mode questions or how to graph a race?
by "Claudio Natoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Dragtimes Featured Car of the Month
by "Dean Thompson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Taper Lock Adapter
by Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Dragtimes Featured Car of the Month
by "steve clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Using flooded vehicle as donor
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Dragtimes
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) High Peddle Safety "Engage" Contactor
by "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: What the limiting factor up a hill
by "Garret Maki" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) EV's on e bay
by "steve clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: Using flooded vehicle as donor
by "Hartsell, Fred" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Conversion business "advertising" on eBay
by Meta Bus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Oscar buzz for "Who Killed the Electric Car"
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) 300ZX Hybrid
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Taper Lock Adapter, Flywheel Fun, Sentra Stuff, too.
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Regen on RWD
by "David Ankers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Clicking on an electric S10
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: AC low power inverter kit
by Kaido Kert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Clicking on an electric S10
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Clicking on an electric S10
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Bed lifts on S10
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) "Gone Postal" goes to LA Film Festival
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) A VERY Green Day on Greenwood Av. (long)
by Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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7 now, who dares compete with the Mustang?!!
** it is fast though :-O **
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Joe Smalley
> Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 8:50 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Dragtimes Featured Car of the Month
>
>
> The Mustang is ahead by 8 votes. 3984 to 3976.
>
> The 240 SX CAN be car of the month THIS month if the votes come in this
> week.
>
> Joe Smalley
> Rural Kitsap County WA
> Fiesta 48 volts
> NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike & Paula Willmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "EV Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2006 12:44 AM
> Subject: Dragtimes Featured Car of the Month
>
>
> > One week left and I see THE Ford Mustang gaining on Matt's
> Electric 240SX
> > who's currently in the top spot. Can we push the votes for one
> more week?
> > I push 2 a day for for the 240SX and Killacycle, but I can't
> hold them off
> > alone.
> >
> > If there's 3 cars and a bike on the Dragtimes featured spot for
> this year
> > alone by the time August 12th comes it would be insprational to the
> several
> > people I've got interested in racing electric. I'm going to
> have a laptop
> > set up with wireless at the Alaska Renewable Energy Fair just
> to show off
> > the Dragtimes.com and evalbum.com websites, and of course
> video's of White
> > Zombie. Can anyone point me towards other good electric racing
> video, to
> > use for PR?
> >
> > Mike,
> > Anchorage, Ak.
> >
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--- Begin Message ---
I found a weak battery. It seems fine for the first 10 ahrs then drops
to about 8 volts which I guess means a reversed cell. I am going to
monitor this battery on the ride again tomorrow and see if that is
correct.
One thing that seems odd was that the pack voltage still reads 66 volts
and my meter on this one battery shows 8 volts, which means the other 5
batteries must average 11.6 volts which seems unlikely high for the
conditions. When I come to a stop the battery climbs back up to about
12 volts over maybe 20 seconds.
Just for the heck of it I geared up 2 teeth in the front tonight just to
see what happens and make sure I am running out of battery and not
running out of gearing. It will be interesting to see how it affects my
amp hour usage for the commute.
I remounted the CasaDelGato battery monitor today too so it will be more
usable. I had it in a bad place tucked up in the fairing so I couldn't
get at the buttons and inadvertently left it in a display mode where it
wasn't updating if a battery went below the threshold (10v in my case).
I am having quite a bit of fun with it finding these thing out none the
less, much better then working on the brakes and steering bearings,
blinkers and junk like that that I had been working on. I am now a firm
believer in the wisdom that I have read on this list that you should
start with a good vehicle to convert from. I have spent more than I
paid for the whole chassis fixing things like bearings, sticky brakes,
and fork seals that it would have been better to just spend more money
in the first place. Now that a lot of that is sorted I must say that
the Fj1100 is a pretty good chassis for an electric considering it was a
heavy bike stock with a big motor so there is more room for component
placement and weight handling.
I am looking seriously at changing up to a group 31 battery next go
round. I think I am going to just replace the one stinker that I have
for now. The other five seem to still be doing strong, although I did
replace one under warranty this spring that had an open cell. If I go
another 60 pounds heavier with group 31 batteries I am treating myself
to a revering contactor to get myself reverse. This thing is starting
to get to heavy to push back on my tippy toes.
P.s. about floodies and getting acid on you in the case or a crash, do
you really think it is any worse than gas? I bet you never think twice
about that. Same thing, it could happen and it would suck, but no
riskier than driving around with gallons of gas and oil IMHO.
-Garret
Broomfield CO
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--- Begin Message ---
Carl,
I filed for the tax credit. They sent me a letter asking for
documentation. I used a lot of second hand parts so I didn't have
receipts for everything. I sent them what I had and pictures too. They
rejected it for lack of documentation. I resubmitted some more
documentation within 30 days. I haven't heard anything back yet. I
guess it is time for me to contact them again. The hold time to call
them is atrocious though. I think email works much quicker, but you get
less information. I'll let you know if they ever accept it. It is 85%
if I read the law right, well more that I actually paid in state taxes
so I would have to carry it forward into following years anyway. They
were unsure whether I could be reimbursed for any of my build time for
that matter too.
Garret
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Carl Clifford
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 2:00 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: RE: mini monster garage
Thanks everyone for your responses to my Black and Decker battery idea.
On the surface it would seem to me that a battery designed for
something as torquey (sp?) as a drill would be a high rate of discharge
battery, but I guess it is nothing compared to what you need for an EV.
Hey Garret, I'll let you know when I get moving on this. By the way,
did you take the Colorado Alternative Fuels tax credit on your bike?
also, if anyone knows of a good source for used Club Car components,
please let me know.
Oh, and wasn't there someone in Denver who had a connection in Optima
to get blems?
Thanks
Carl
Denver
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A long time ago in this thread, I wrote:
> Armature Duty Cycle. I think the 0-100% range
> is represented by 0 - 252 (ie. x00 - xfc).
which was wrong. Apologies if I led anyone astray earlier.
After rechecking my data, and a chat with Matt Graham, it seems the correct
range is 0 - 159 (thanks for the confirmation Matt!)
Mike Willmon, this means the duty cycle I suggested to you the other day should
have been about 42% (0x43 = 67 / 159), not about 27%.
Cheers,
Claudio
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A direct link might help people vote a little more easily:
http://www.dragtimes.com/Nissan-240SX-Timeslip-7382.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
When I was working on the Festiva late last year, I had the same issue trying
to find a teperlock sprocket, pulley, anything that I could drill and tap 6
holes in and bolt up the the flywheel. I searched and searched, but never
found anything that would work well. I ended up buying a Luvjoy 1/2 spider
coupling from McMaster Carr and modifying it. It took about 3 hours to mate it
up to the flywheel and it worked very well. The only issue is that it uses a
key in keyway and setscrew. I think with 3 setscrews (1 between each of the 6
flywheel bolts), it is fine. Steve Clunn used to use this technique often and
it worked for moderate power applications. I made mine completely on the mill
and lathe in 3 hours. I did not need to use the motor as the lathe as he does
in his video. The other way is to get one of those taperlock sprockets (Martin
has a good one that you can get from McMaster Carr) and weld it to a large
steel disc. Balance that thing and then mount the
clutch pack to the large steel disc. That will also work, but is more
expensive and takes more time to make. Left Coast Conversions also had a
pretty decent approach, but my lathe wasn't big enough to turn the flywheel on
the inside to mount the taperlock bushing inside the flywheel. They may be
able to provide the service for you and get it done right. Sometimes with
something like the coupler, it is best to subcontract it out to someone who has
done it before and has been successful. That's why I used the Steve Clunn
approach, even though it wasn't a taperlock.
Steve Powers
Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Fred,
Search back for this thread (listed below) from 19 January 2006 titled
RE: QD taperlock bushing PN needed
It references PT6-13 and PT6-14 of the catalog that Roland and Michael
reference previously on this thread.
http://www.dodge-pt.com/literature/catalogs/pt_components_catalog.html
When you get there, scroll down about half way to BUSHINGS and select
Specifications.
This will give you the first part of the PT6 chapter.
Most bearing and gear shops have or can get these Dodge products in short
order.
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Mike & Paula Willmon
> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 9:56 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: RE: QD taperlock bushing PN needed
>
>
> The local bearing shop here has similar looking Taper-Lock bushings that I
> see in Gadget's pics of his his Triumph flywheel adaptor
> (http://www.reverendgadget.com/triumph2.html). They're $22 for the split
> taper bushing type 2517 (p/n for the 1-1/8" shaft is 119110) and
> $56 for the
> bushing adaptor (097016 through 097019) pages PT6-13 and PT6-14
> of the Dodge
> catalog. I went and looked them over to see how they'd fit if I bored my
> flywheel and welded them in. The bore hole OD is 4.125" with a
> seating lip
> of 4.250" The depth of this lip from the smaller side can be 0.450",
> 0.565", 0.685" or 1.090" depending on where you need to weld it
> to get your
> "magic number". You might have to research a little through the
> catalog to
> find the right bolt on type adaptor pictured on Gadget's BMW flywheel
> (http://leftcoastconversions.com/gpage.html), however the split taper
> bushing you'll need will most likely be the 2715 with the 1-1/8" bore.
> You'll either have to wels or drill lots of holes. I can e-mail
> anyone this
> section of the catalog if you're interested. Maybe have it posted on
> EVForge.
>
> Just tonight though I've decided to take the easy way and ordered
> an adaptor
> from Electroauto for the Mitsu :-)
>
> Mike
> Anchorage,AK.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Mark Ward
> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 7:40 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: QD taperlock bushing PN needed
>
>
> I have the Dodge Taperlock bushing catalog and am hopeful someone can save
> me some time by letting me know which QD bushing is typically
> used for the 1
> 1/8 inch shaft Warp and ADC motors. There are about 11 pages of
> taperlocks!
>
> I have to order one and get it and the 4130 steel barstock to a
> machine shop
> for my hub to be made up.
>
> Any advice appreciated from someone who has already made up their own.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Mark Ward
> St. Charles, MO
> 95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"
> www.saabrina.blogspot.com
>
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Sports Fantasy Football 06 - Go with the leader. Start your league
today!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks this dose make it easyer , I like the new picture , shows the motor
:-)
steve clunn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Thompson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 5:30 AM
Subject: RE: Dragtimes Featured Car of the Month
A direct link might help people vote a little more easily:
http://www.dragtimes.com/Nissan-240SX-Timeslip-7382.html
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--- Begin Message ---
Joe,
I'd keep looking if I were you. My dad once purchased a flood veicle and
(in spite of being a newer model car) had constant problems with it, and
it always had little squeaks here and there.
Ralph
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> In my quest for a donor vehicle, I have came across a few newer vehicles that
> come with
> "Flood Title" and the Odometer not working. Has anyone had any experance in
> using this
> type of vehicle ??
> I was looking for a "late" model s-10.
>
> Joe Kidd in Cincy.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
the URL
http://www.dragtimes.com/Nissan-240SX-Timeslip-7382.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Rod etc,
Thanks but I pulled the control apart last night (TEVan power base with my uP
control card)
and the IGBT is OK when checking with the sillyscope and a light bulb on the
output. Guess the
desat interrupt on the uP worked ok, got a shudder yesterday as it limited to
600A on the 1000A
IGBT. I found a water drop across two complimentary N-P channel small driver
fets that drive the gate
of the IGBT. With a scope on the gate, I could see as they were PWM'd that
at minimum duty cycles,
they would sporadically stay high. I sprayed with more clear coating and
then the control behaved
normally while it was running in my hand watching the scope. The charger
pooped
out also, the quescent 12V supply runing the dash uP controller got water in
it also. It was so humid
in the garage as we got a foot of rain, runing down the mountain and into the
garage that I dehumidified
overnight with a window air conditioner to get the condensation off the
electronics in the Cushman.
Everything was wet and wouldn't dry out, water droplets on all surfaces. I
ordered some silicone official
conformal coating from Allied and am mounting the controller higher tonight
(like in my Ejeep). The controller
was 8" for cooling off the road but that didn't work to well when splashing
through
14" of water.
Best Regards,
Mark
Date:
Mon, 26 Jun 2006 10:19:15 -0700 (PDT) From: "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL
PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: High Peddle Safety "Engage" Contactor To:
ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Plain Text Attachment [ Scan and Save to Computer |
Save to Yahoo! Briefcase ]
Sounds like you'll need a new IGBT module. Send me an email and let me know.
Usually the control card is spared with the exception of R24 which is a 10 ohm
0805 resistor (usually burns open). Rod --- "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL
PROTECTED]> wrote: > Howdy Folk's, > > I'm glad I have a high peddle
safety "Engage" > contactor as my control failed on today when > splashing
through some deep water. (Gotta move it to > a higher location with heat sink
air flow). I guess > the uP & IGBT gate control circuitry didn't like >
getting wet. Even though the board & IGBT wiring > had several layers of
polyurethane (conformal > coating) there was apparently a path from the high
> +72V cabling to the zener clamped gate drive. There > was a loud bang as it
went full on & I released the > acell peddle which zorched the main engage
contactor > but saved me from an accident. I think the new rear > end is
trashed though cause it's a bit crunchy now > when
I towed it home on a flatbed. Probably > shouldn't drive the EV during flood
warnings. > > Remember to connect a main contactor (with >
pre-charge resistor) to the microswitch on the > Curtis potbox so the main
contactor disconnects the > battery everytime you release the peddle. In the
> years I've been driving EV's (& at GE-EV) I've seen > controllers fail on
occasionally and am glad I have > a safety "engage" contactor. > >
Best Regards, > Mark >
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
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I forgot to mention timing. No advance on the timing. I don't really
know how to do this. I asked on the list a while ago about instructions
on taking the motor apart to do this and the reply I got was don't
bother on a 72v system. I took out the bolts on the motor ends and they
weren't coming off. I tried pretty hard and could rotate them, but they
didn't want to let go of the commutator I think.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 10:26 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: What the limiting factor up a hill
Hi Garret,
I've been watching this thread with great interest. As you know I have a
similar EV motorcycle set up. I have not observed the behavior the you
describe,
but most of my tests where I have measured current have been at near
full
charge and on steep, but shorter hills that are ~1/4 mile long. My
current
(crude) instrumentation does not allow me to look at volts and amps in
the same
test.
Like your machine, mine has fixed gear ratio and battery amps are equal
to
motor amps (400 peak). I only see peak current at low rpms as when the
motor
rpms climb the current drops to the almost to the levels that you
describe (my
recollection is ~170 amps when accelerating near the top of a long hill
at
~50MPH. The other main difference is that my batteries are AGMs. On
short hills
I am able to accelerate at will at 70 MPH. However I am likely at a
higher
SOC during most of my tests.
Perhaps you could comment as to whether your motor timing is neutral or
advanced. I can't help but wonder if advancing your motor timing and
repeating
the long hill high motor rpm test would tell us anything interesting
about the
symptoms that you described.
- Mike B
Mike Bachand
Denver Electric Vehicle Council (DEVC)
Board Member, Web Administration and Newsletter Editor
Kawasaki Ninja EV
[EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED])
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I have a new aggressive sales man , " if you can't sell them cheep then
raise the price " . They are on e bay 4652614753 and #4652623598 - Toyota
: Tercel]
He's in the 2nd stage of EV madness :-)
Steve Clunn
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Just my personal opinion, but I would stay away from any vehicle that
had been involved in a flood. I have heard too many horror stories
about vehicles such as these. I would try to find a donor vehicle that
was local that I could talk to the owner and find out how it was taken
care of. You don't want to spoil the fun of owning an electric vehicle
with always having to repair the rest of the vehicle because of some
earlier problems.
Thanks,
Fred
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 9:38 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Using flooded vehicle as donor
In my quest for a donor vehicle, I have came across a few newer vehicles
that come with
"Flood Title" and the Odometer not working. Has anyone had any experance
in using this
type of vehicle ??
I was looking for a "late" model s-10.
Joe Kidd in Cincy.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6063682615
That's not a conversion business. That's our buddy Steve, from across
the peninsula. http://www.grassrootsev.com
Steve, how much would you charge to come to St. Pete and help me get my
two buses welded together?
:-}
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Please check out this very in depth article about "Who Killed the Electric
Car". It looks like the prestigious Hollywood Reporter is starting the Oscar
buzz for this movie. If it gets a nomination we all know what that means.
Roderick Wilde
http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/thr/columns/grove_display.jsp?vnu_content_id=1002691221
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.4/375 - Release Date: 6/25/2006
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My wife has asked me if I can turn our 1986 300ZX (5-speed manual) into a
hybrid after I finish converting my current EV. Her goal is to be able to
drive it to work and back daily using electric mode only, switching to ICE
mode for longer trips only. Her daily round trip commute is around 12
miles, the final part entailing a 5.5 mile uphill climb where the speed
limit is 40 mph.
The 300ZX is a rear-wheel drive vehicle, I believe, with around a 3.6:1
ratio in the differential. Any thoughts on how best to make such a hybrid?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Mohlere" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 12:42 AM
Subject: Re: Taper Lock Adapter, Flywheel Fun
> Bob -
>
> I once owned an 87 Nissan Sentra - perhaps my next conversion will be one
of
> those, however, on the advice of Steve Clunn and Dale Glubrecht, I am
going
> to convert and S10 truck to pop my proverbial EV cherry.....If I move on
to
> a Sentra next, perhaps you could share some pointers??
>
> Thx, Mike
>
> Hi Mike an' All;
I bought my Sentra as a running car, about 3 years ago, well barely!
The batteries were shot, it MIGHT go 5 miles. First thing I did was get RID
of the dead batteries, AND the plywood boxes he had built, to house them.
The batteries over the years had pissed acid through EVerything, in the
trunk, through the plywood box into the car's body, through the trunk floor
and car frame. Had I REALLY looked at things, I woulda junked the car, and
saved the eklectrics for another glider. No. not me, in bouts of insanity I
hauled it off to my local "Metal God" type guy that fixes body rot good
enough to pass CT's vehicle inspections. I have seen him restore vehicles
that I would tow to the scrap yard without a second glance.He got into it
more deeply, than I had hoped he'd need to..600 bux later and some remedial
work myself I had a presentable doner car. WARNING you newbees; Don't start
with a rusty piece of shit car! Taint worth it! Get something with NO
rust!!!!NO dings, ratty uppulstery, You wanna do an EV NOT restore a crappy
car. Shoulda read my own posting.Sigh.
I feel that I'm almost starting from scratch. Yeah I DID get a decent
adapter and motor coupling, that came with the car. A KTA setup. Nice, it
just bolted and unbolted together. I had to get the comm turned and while it
was in the lathe had the machinist guy center bore and fit me with a shaft,
half inch, in the comm end of the motor, IF I want to drice a vacuum pump or
whatever.OK Reassemble, redesign the goofy Nissan tranny motor mounts the
guy had built before!!One chintzy little arnm bracket wasn't gunna hack it.
Seems like NOBODY converting a car will just make and weld a new motor
support bracket, or mount at a convenient spot on the car's frame. No. They
TRY to use the existing setup from the ICE so you have these crazy motor
mount THINGS to hold the motor up. On a FWD it is fairly easy as the car
CAME with supports to take care of torque. All you hafta do is hold up the
end of the motor!So I made a plate that bolts to the end of the motor, went
down to my local garage and they donated a few dead shocks. One with a nice
half inch bushing grommet still good. Cut that off and welded it to the
plate. Lined things up and welded two mount plates to the frame.Presto!
Instant motor mount that tales little space and even LOOKS nice! If ya met
my Rabbit at Joliet, same deal?
OK motor secured, went after battery mounting, torched the rest of the ,
wall, for want of a better term, that the radiater and headlite buckets go
on. There IS 35 and change inches between the frame rails up front. A quick
measurment sed that 5 T 145's would go side by side in a rack in there.The
angle rack, from old angle bed frames, 'aint bed frames wonderful, can pick
all you want or could EVer use at the dump! Made a frame for 5 batteries, it
will sit nicely on the cars forward crossmember, and weld to trhe car frame.
That was great until I went to try on the T 145's. The damn T 145's are
about an Inch TOO high and hit the plastic headlight buckets GODAMM IT!Had I
thought of this I might have been able to make the battery rack a tad lower?
As I have a an angle setup under the rack, had I welded it flush, after
hammering the rounded corners of said crossmembers, flat. Or used the lower
T 105's or T 125's . So I was going to be dammed if I was gunna rip out that
pretty rack! So I'm retrofitting the car with VW Rabbit headlites, the
buckets will fit in and clear the top of the batteries!DAMNIT! I wasn't
planning on this! So, guyz, measure TWICE or MORE then cut an' weld! I
wanted to say this, as this is my non progress as of yesterday.Having to
reengineer the damn car, deeper than I had planned! But when I get that
cobbled away I will have 15 batteries in the car for a 90 volt system. Oh
yeah, I sabersawed out the trunk floor and did my signature 10 battery rack
dropped down through the trunk floor, to about the modesty panel under the
rear bumper. Don't wanna go lower, incase ya gunched the pack with careless
backing up, if they hung way low!This is an OPEN frame, like the Rabbit
setup, so you can hose the batteries down, now and again, as flooldies are
always dripping and oozing. Much to be sed for sealed cells!I cover
everyything up woith a wood frame around the battery box and a plywood
cover. again like my Rabbit setup. This shuts out road noise, as the open
battery rack is that way for a sorta passive ventuilation system.Like faster
ya go, better it works!Of course your batteries freeze their plates off in
the winter. I often thought of glueing styrofoam around the open frame rack
in the winter? But with tropical 90'% weather in CT nowadaze, Global
Warming, things get too HOT! Bad enough with an open box, now!So I live with
crappy range in the winter.
As for the front, everything is in open racks, easy to hose down, if your
setup is easy to wash down, you WILL be inclined to keep your batteries
clean!This is something that I have always built conversions with
washibility in mind. Have scene what standing acid will do to car's
shitmetal, they are SO thin, nowadaze! Which is nice for the dead weight
dept, but your joule will rust away quicker than tax increases if you
don't/can't keep it clean.Sooo IF I get the newer headlites mounted so they
clear the batteries. WARNING! MEASURE AND CHECK WITH A LIVING, REAL FULL
SIZE BATTERY AS YOU GO! I'm shouting, but I meant to. I had to reengineer
the whole headlite setup, as well as beef up the upper frame rail where the
hood latch goes as it was pretty much flapping in the breeze after I cut
away most of it'ds support structure, as I have sed before conversions are a
form of masochism, anyhow, but it is the only game in town for now. Jerry we
NEED the Freedom EV if yur listening<g>!Or the Sunrise!There are a buncha
OTHER loose ends to address, for now. but am along on the major
stuff.Essentially am building a new from scratch EV.Maybe taking more time
as I have to get rid of the last guyz stuff?!
So THAT's the Sentra non Progress report for now!I DO like the sorta
boxy Sentra of that era, I think it is a real good donar car, 15 batteries
will fit, I guess you could get a few more up front, and some under the back
seat, but I wanted a car with NO batteries in the passenger cabin, and a
useable back seat.The Jetta should work out nicely, too, in that line of
thought.Oh yeah, there IS a nice DC Circus breaker mounted on the dash, in
the Sentra. Nice! Will leave it there. Looks like something I "Borrowed"
from the RR! A nice campy industrial touch<g>!With the Cursit controller the
guy felt that he would NEED it. So there were some nice touches in the car.
My two racks worth
Seeya
Bob
Be mindful that happiness not based on possessions, power or
prestiege, but on relationships with people you love and respect.
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Hi List,
Simple question, looking at some of the companies that are creating EVs and
starting to get press attention, specifically Tesla Motors; I assume their
first car is rear wheel drive as its based somewhat on the Lotus Elise, I
also expect the Wrightspeed is RWD also as it's based on the Atom. Both
these cars are using AC Propulsion's motor and inverter; will they still use
the Regen braking function? Its regen really worth it with a rear wheel
drive car or really practical?
Cheers,
Dave
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Somewhat EV related: I took the S10 out for an unlicensed "drive" last
night. One thing I noticed was a clicking sound coming from under the
middle of the car in forward, but not reverse.
It's not the parking pawl (it's clear), sounds like a CV joint. However
I know CV joint noise parameters, and this happens regardless of turn
direction.
So do S10 trucks with rear wheel drive have some sort of CV joint system
in the driveshaft? Could this be the result of not having the bed on the
truck (and a thousand pounds light because of the NiCD batteries)
For the record, this truck moves *FAST*. Even at 200 amp draw the
batteries are not dropping below 300 volts (302v). Despite the rain
storms the pack is not isolation faulting, and I'm able to program the
Dolphin chips.
Soon... Soon I will have it registered, have a tilt-bed installed (who
makes those again?) and then.... 80kw for starters, then 100....
Mwahaha!
Chris
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--- Begin Message ---
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
In short, my question is why has AC inverter traditionally been
considered "expensive" when DSP/MCU vendors like ST, TI, Freescale,
Microchip etc sell ready-made full vector ACIM motor control kits
with full software ?
A generic AC inverter isn't expensive. A specifically EV AC inverter is
more expensive because good ones possess much of the software and
vehicle related stuff non-existing in the generic inverters from ST
you've mentioned. For a scooter this is not relevant - they may work OK.
Is scaling the power stage up fundamentally hard ?
No, it's not *fundamentally* hard, but it isn't as trivial as
connecting 3x of power transistors in parallel and expect 3x
output power increase. But, the most of the cost is not in the silicon.
Ok, my current plan to "scaling up" is using an integrated power module
from Powerex or other mftr. Powerex provides IPMs and their interface
circuits rated up to 45kw
Their fourth-generation IPM price list is here:
http://www.newark.com/product-details/text/CD121/4378.html
they also provide reference some development kits along with DSP but i
havent been able to find a direct price quote yet.
I know that the cost is not in the silicon, i fully intend to spend
countless hours debugging stuff, reading my literature and research
papers over again and blowing things up.
Luckily i have got plenty of experience in programming, some good
literature and mad google skillz ;) but my knowledge in power
electronics is awfully theorethical so far.
Thats why im starting at 3kw :) and also getting some up-to-date reading
material from Amazon ( considering* isbns:* 0130167436,** 0849331544 ,*
*0131011405, 0849314666 )
Anyway, if i ever come up with anything workable or even semi-workable,
i intend to put the designs out for everyone to look at.
-kert
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Electronic or mechanical click?
Maybe get up to speed and turn the key to off, not lock, and see if
the clicking changes.
Out tilt beds were done at a body shop. Not an idea way to do it as
the bed mounting holes don't line up afterwards. So what ever you find
let the rest of us know.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Somewhat EV related: I took the S10 out for an unlicensed "drive" last
> night. One thing I noticed was a clicking sound coming from under the
> middle of the car in forward, but not reverse.
>
> It's not the parking pawl (it's clear), sounds like a CV joint. However
> I know CV joint noise parameters, and this happens regardless of turn
> direction.
>
> So do S10 trucks with rear wheel drive have some sort of CV joint
system
> in the driveshaft? Could this be the result of not having the bed on
the
> truck (and a thousand pounds light because of the NiCD batteries)
>
> For the record, this truck moves *FAST*. Even at 200 amp draw the
> batteries are not dropping below 300 volts (302v). Despite the rain
> storms the pack is not isolation faulting, and I'm able to program the
> Dolphin chips.
>
> Soon... Soon I will have it registered, have a tilt-bed installed (who
> makes those again?) and then.... 80kw for starters, then 100....
>
>
> Mwahaha!
>
> Chris
>
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--- Begin Message ---
I'm not familiar with S10s, but if it's rear wheel drive, it probably has a
drive shaft and
universal joints. If so, you can crawl under the truck and give them a wiggle.
ANY perceptible
movement in a ujoint usually will make noise and indicates impending failure.
Replace them now. I
just did the job in my Silverado. It's a piece of cake. The only special tool
you may need is a
large C-clamp.
Dave Cover
--- Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Somewhat EV related: I took the S10 out for an unlicensed "drive" last
> night. One thing I noticed was a clicking sound coming from under the
> middle of the car in forward, but not reverse.
>
> It's not the parking pawl (it's clear), sounds like a CV joint. However
> I know CV joint noise parameters, and this happens regardless of turn
> direction.
>
> So do S10 trucks with rear wheel drive have some sort of CV joint system
> in the driveshaft? Could this be the result of not having the bed on the
> truck (and a thousand pounds light because of the NiCD batteries)
>
> For the record, this truck moves *FAST*. Even at 200 amp draw the
> batteries are not dropping below 300 volts (302v). Despite the rain
> storms the pack is not isolation faulting, and I'm able to program the
> Dolphin chips.
>
> Soon... Soon I will have it registered, have a tilt-bed installed (who
> makes those again?) and then.... 80kw for starters, then 100....
>
>
> Mwahaha!
>
> Chris
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
Mike Phillips wrote:
Electronic or mechanical click?
Definately mechanical. I'm pretty good with ears, sounds like slightly
aft of the transmission. Then again the tranny seems to go under the
cab; it had better not be broken.
Did I mention that the power steering pump on this thing makes a LOT of
noise? It's insane; my car's PS pump is totally quiet. Maybe I need to
look at putting a muffler on it or something.
Out tilt beds were done at a body shop. Not an idea way to do it as
the bed mounting holes don't line up afterwards. So what ever you find
let the rest of us know.
*nod* Current though involves large door hinges from home depot and my
Elec-trak stick welder. The big problem of course is you need to move
back slightly since the arc will not otherwise clear the cab rear.
Hm. Maybe I could weld the brackets to the truck, but not the bed. Then
when it's time to lift un-bolt the bed, slide it back an inch to holes
that will line up between the bed and the hinges. Or something.
Anyone else done this?
Chris
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"Father Time" aka Don Crabtree and myself just returned last night from a
six day weekend drive to Los Angeles and back. We were invited by Electric
Entertainment, Dean Devlin's production company to take "Gone Postal" to
display at the film premiere at The Los Angeles Film Festival of "Who Killed
the Electric Car". We had a GREAT time! Gadget and Kimmie put us up at his
expansive 10,000 square foot warehouse shop space and apartment complex.
They were very gracious hosts. We also met Roger who works with Gadget. What
a great guy with a quick wit and a twinkle in his eye! We arrived Friday
early afternoon at Gadget's place and mostly watched him and Roger go about
getting his Triumph ready for the display as well as Tommy Chong's 49 Olds
lowrider. You may remember Tommy if old enough from Cheech and Chong. He had
to get a 11" Warp motor mounted in the cavernous area under the hood that
once housed a straight eight and a huge cast iron Hydromantic transmission.
In fact Gadget mounted it deep back in the tunnel where the tranny had been.
It will be running a direct drive system with a low ratio rear end. This is
mostly a surface street show car with little freeway use. It is being filmed
for MTV.
We caravaned to the evnt on Saturday morning and set up. They gave us the
most prominent location straight ahead under the banner on the corner
nearest the theater. FT and I talked with a lot of people. I think the
highlight of the event for FT was having one of the two attractive and
hilarious black ladies from the film come up and ask him if she could get
her picture taken with him. I met most of the producers of the film except
for Dean Devlin who did not show up. I had a lengthy and insightful
conversation with Martin Eberhard, the CEO and founder of Tesla Motors.
Pictures of the car will be released in about three weeks he said.
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006
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BOY ! We're we Hammered. I mean the questions, and inquiries just
kept coming.. From hours before the show opened, till way passed the
time we were all headed over to my place for the Annual SEVA BBQ.
Many thanks for all the Extra Effort that went into this years "Gasless
on Greenwood" First myself... Your Welcome...
But mostly the folks who came from a distance.. Mark Mongillo's and his
1968 Datsun Pick-up, and John Waland, just FRESH off the plane from
Alaska, and Roy LeMeur for helping them both get up here.. Thanks Roy.
and Mark from MC Electric for his entry, and helping Paul Gooch get his
darling VW Doon Buggy down from Everett. ...But also just all the
regulars who came from near and far..Stephen Bernheim all the way down
from Edmonds in his Sparrow... always a crowd pleasure. Father Time,
although in L.A. at the time..for arranging two buddies to bring one of
his classy Drag Bikes. Kent Bakke and his Red VW Bug. Andrew Schwarz
down from Bothell, and his beautiful Mazda Miata.. Dave Cloud and one of
his customers, who was kind enough to bring a very nice 4-door
Geo-Metro... a very nice example of a conversion, which was certainly a
big Item of Conversation.. Ryan Fulcher was swamped with questions on
Plug-In-Hybrids !! Many folks recognized his perfectly prepared Toyota
Prius, from its recent article in the Seattle Times News Paper. If we
had a ready-made PHEV KIT, I think we could have sold a DOZEN right
there on the SPOT. Dave Barden brought his Ohhh-too cuit Honda 600 EV.
Want to THANK our friends from Green Car Company for joining us too.
Hope they got a lot of ACTION. Wonderful to see those Smart Cars, and
Bio-Diesel too..
Want to give special thanks to Ryan, for the on-going video
show/presentation out of the back of his Prius... Always a gathering
point for crowds. Many folks still BLOWN AWAY once realizing how FAST
Plasma-Boys White Zombie Datsun is.... A great show.
I was way horse of voice by noon... Shouting at the crowd, when folks
would walk by with out stopping..." You'll be BACK when gas is $5 a
Gallon !! """ ( some folks laughed.... some did not... ) You have
to remember we were in the "Den of Lions" I mean there was Oil, and
GAS, and Chrome, and custom paint jobs, as far as the eye could see...
The only problem... ( which we WILL resolve for next year...) is having
a designated SPOT before entering the show area... Like the Ferrari Club
or the Mini Club, or the GTO Club. We went down, to where there was
SUPPOSED to be 12 spots, only to be turned around and heading back
towards the End of the Line. I jumped out, ( near 74th,,, and just
Proclaimed a Half Block as " !!ELECTRIC CAR LAND..STAND CLEAR...WE'RE
BACKING I N !! It worked out OK.
Thanks again to everyone. And THANKS to all who came to the BBQ. Chuck
! Thanks for the Chicken. Thanks the Bardons for the Tebuli, and the
Meyers, and all the others too... It was great to break bread with all
our EV Friends...
Now ON to the next show... Who's coming to Tacoma with me on the
9th of July ????
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
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