--- Begin Message ---
General Comment: This appears to be a lot like many EV component discussions.
Due to the characteristics of EV performance "drag racing" comes up, but what
is really happening is that we as new folks have to learn that EVs require
certain things to perform to our expectations and handle the forces that go
along with those expectations.
Thanks to everyone and their valuable discussions that help us new folks learn
what it takes to have a good conversion in the end! Something our whole
"community" can be proud of contributing to!
Kirk
________________________________
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Mike Chancey
Sent: Sun 7/16/2006 1:39 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Replacement clutch question
John wrote:
>John, do yourself a favor and get the most heavy duty clutch you can find.
Amen! I thought, no, this isn't a drag racer, you don't need a
racing clutch. Wrong. SLIP SLIP SLIP. I haven't replaced it, but I
will. Be nice yourself and your wallet. Buy the right clutch the first time.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
In medio stat virtus - Virtue is in the moderate, not the extreme
position. (Horace)
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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------_=_NextPart_001_01C6A919.CBFC81AE"
Subject: RE: Replacement clutch question
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 13:52:48 -0700
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
X-MS-Has-Attach:
X-MS-TNEF-Correlator: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Thread-Topic: Replacement clutch question
Thread-Index: AcapGEUWlVj6BwT/SNqTPGXC6rPunQAAMo3S
References: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Reinkens, Kirk--
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: help with layout
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 15:06:20 -0600
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Hello David,
One way to gain more space in the motor bay, is to cut a section out of the
radiator support bracket that ties the two fenders together. This was done
with my first EV, It had a section cut out of the middle leaving a section
connected to the fenders, which also held the head lights.
If you do not want to cut your original one, as later you may want to convert
it back for resale, used one from a junk vehicle.
If the hood has a catch in the center of the radiator, then you can remove this
and install two side catches or hood pins.
You can cover the edge of the cuts with a vinyl edge trim that finish off the
exposed metal.
This gain me about 18 inches of room which I was able to install a 40 by 30
inch tee shape battery box.
This arrangement balance out the weight of the EV to about 50% over each axle.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: David Brandt<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: EVDL<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 1:21 PM
Subject: help with layout
I realize this is a bit like playing with fire, but I'd like to know
how others have arranged the batteries in the engine bay section of
Fieros, and how they designed the rack. I've looked at the album, and
the details I need are a bit lacking. I need to place 2-3 PS-121000
batteries (www.power-sonic.com<http://www.power-sonic.com/>) in a rack in
this area and still have
room for a PFC-20 somewhere. Unfortunately, there's not a lot of room
with the decklid supports coming down and all the other stuff in the
area. Probably have to settle for 2, but I would still like to make
the rack as big as possible. Here's links to pics of mine right now.
http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0006.JPG<http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0006.JPG>
http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0007.JPG<http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0007.JPG>
http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0008.JPG<http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0008.JPG>
http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0009.JPG<http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0009.JPG>
(Yes, I will be making covers for the controller, hairball, shunt,
etc.)
I've got racks built for the center tunnel, the front, and the trunk
area, but how to build something relatively light to go over the motor
is a tough one. There's only structure to connect to on 3 sides, and
one of those will have to be built up. The forward wall isn't
straight, and it is quite difficult to get to to install supports.
The RH area between the firewall and the shock tower holds the aux.
battery right now, and has space to add the DC-DC, so the rack can't
encroach on that area.
Also, I'm having shifting trouble with this transmission ('86 Gt, 4
speed), and can't find anything in the online tech guides or my factory
service manual about it. It won't stay in reverse, and is quite
difficult to move the lever in the left-right directions. Any advice?
David Brandt
__________________________________________________
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Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: help with layout (one more thing)
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 15:33:39 -0600
MIME-Version: 1.0
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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I forgot to add, that in adjusting a manual transmission or any manual
transmission, start with the shifter linkage remove from the transmission.
Next move the levers on the transmission to find the three positions. Normally
the level will move forward, center, and then rear.
Do this with each level to find the center position.
The reversed lever may be only two positions.
You may find that when the transmission shift levers are in the center
position, they should be pointing straight down. Move all the shift levers to
this position, this should be the neutral position of the transmission.
Next move the shift stick to the neutral position and move it threw the neutral
positions for each gear position. Normally this is from side to side. Now
eyeball the shift levers on the shifter, to see if they are all align up and
pointing down ward.
Now see if each shifting rod will fit the lever on the transmission, to fit
just right, it should connected up with no forcing, if you tried to install
the rods, with a little force, than you are moving the transmission shifting
forks inside the transmission, which will become out of position. It takes
very little movement to make this happen.
If the shifting rods do not fit exactly, than adjust the shifting rods to fit.
It takes just a little bit of movement to be off.
In installing A motor in place of a engine, the transmission position could be
exactly in the same place as it was with the engine. You will note that on the
rear transmission mount, there is a slot for the bolt hole for the rear mount,
this can move back and forth for about 3/4 of a inch.
In my conversion, I had to slide the transmission back about 5/8 inch, and this
threw off the shifting rod positions. I had to readjust the shifting rods, and
make a longer clutch rod for it to work right.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: David Brandt<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: EVDL<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 1:21 PM
Subject: help with layout
I realize this is a bit like playing with fire, but I'd like to know
how others have arranged the batteries in the engine bay section of
Fieros, and how they designed the rack. I've looked at the album, and
the details I need are a bit lacking. I need to place 2-3 PS-121000
batteries (www.power-sonic.com<http://www.power-sonic.com/>) in a rack in
this area and still have
room for a PFC-20 somewhere. Unfortunately, there's not a lot of room
with the decklid supports coming down and all the other stuff in the
area. Probably have to settle for 2, but I would still like to make
the rack as big as possible. Here's links to pics of mine right now.
http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0006.JPG<http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0006.JPG>
http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0007.JPG<http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0007.JPG>
http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0008.JPG<http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0008.JPG>
http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0009.JPG<http://www.davesevs.com/IMG_0009.JPG>
(Yes, I will be making covers for the controller, hairball, shunt,
etc.)
I've got racks built for the center tunnel, the front, and the trunk
area, but how to build something relatively light to go over the motor
is a tough one. There's only structure to connect to on 3 sides, and
one of those will have to be built up. The forward wall isn't
straight, and it is quite difficult to get to to install supports.
The RH area between the firewall and the shock tower holds the aux.
battery right now, and has space to add the DC-DC, so the rack can't
encroach on that area.
Also, I'm having shifting trouble with this transmission ('86 Gt, 4
speed), and can't find anything in the online tech guides or my factory
service manual about it. It won't stay in reverse, and is quite
difficult to move the lever in the left-right directions. Any advice?
David Brandt
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com<http://mail.yahoo.com/>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 17:57:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Replacement clutch question
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v553)
From: John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
OK so it looks like there is a heavy duty clutch in my future.
The clutchnet.com site shows 3 performance levels
Green: 10 to 15% performance improvement from stock
Yellow: Street performance & Racing
Red: Racing applications
Which of these categories would be the best option for my ev?
Also the clutch disks are offered as either solid hub or spring hub.
Would one be better suited to an EV application than the other?
On Sunday, July 16, 2006, at 04:07 PM, John Wayland wrote:
> Hello to John and All,
> John wrote:
<snip>
>> Searching parts dealers for a clutch kit on the net revels a number
>> of options ranging in price from about $130 to almost $300 for what
>> I think are standard replacement clutches.
> Try <clutchnet.com>, home of the "It vill not schlip!" clutch/
>>
>> How does the inexperienced converter choose?
> Listen to the advice of EV drag racers. I can't tell you how many
> times I've tried to convince those converting to an EV about the
> importance of using a race quality heavy duty clutch, then I hear them
> say 'But I'm not interested in drag racing...I don't need that kind of
> clutch'...then, about two weeks after their conversion is on the road,
> I hear them moaning about how their clutch is slipping when they try
> to take off in 2nd gear, as most EVers always decide is the best
> choice for the take-off gear with an EV's abundant low end torque.
>
> John, do yourself a favor and get the most heavy duty clutch you can
> find. You don't need a solid copper tri-pad racer's friction disc, as
> they are pretty rude and abrupt, but when it comes to the pressure
> plate, don't wimp out. Get a mondo sized pressure plate with lots of
> clamping force, and pair it with a heavy duty clutch disc with fat
> springs and high performance friction material (usually impregnated
> with metallic partials). While you're playing in that area, have a
> qualified machine shop trim the flywheel down to the diameter of the
> pressure plate to cut 10-15 lbs. rotational weight...you don't need or
> want it when you have an electric motor as your motive source.
>
> See Ya.....John Wayland
>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 14:46:56 -0800
From: Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: Replacement clutch question
To: EV Discussion List <[email protected]>
Message-id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Same here, shoulda listened to Wayland...the first time. Almost new looking
stock clutch schlip, schlip, schlip. I got a 100%
ceramic clutch disc and another stock pressure plate.
It would be a pretty rude grab too if I had to feather into it from a start,
with a running engine. Now, 2nd or 3rd from a
standstill, no schlip, no schlip, no schlip.
Mike,
Ancorage, Ak.
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/756
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Mike Chancey
> Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 12:40 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Replacement clutch question
>
>
> John wrote:
>
> >John, do yourself a favor and get the most heavy duty clutch you can find.
>
> Amen! I thought, no, this isn't a drag racer, you don't need a
> racing clutch. Wrong. SLIP SLIP SLIP. I haven't replaced it, but I
> will. Be nice yourself and your wallet. Buy the right clutch the first time.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Mike Chancey,
> '88 Civic EV
> Kansas City, Missouri
> EV Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
> My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
> Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
> Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
>
> In medio stat virtus - Virtue is in the moderate, not the extreme
> position. (Horace)
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 15:54:53 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: EV Discussion List <[email protected]>
Subject: EV 100 handset
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Anyone have any need for this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250008178056
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Time Delay Switch for Harley Davidson Needed
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 16:36:39 -0700
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=response
Hi All, they have stopped making the time delay switch for Harley Davidson
golf carts. This switch was used on the old electric carts. Originally it
was a tube that looked like a tube out of an old radio. It's function was to
delay switching the fourth speed solenoid by 1.8 seconds. The third and
fourth contact were the same on the speed control board. Anyone know where I
could find something like this or does anyone want to build them and sell
them to me. The ones we were buying were just two wires about 14 or 16 gauge
coming out of a round potted piece the size of an M-80 firecracker. Any and
all help appreciated.
Roderick
Roderick Wilde
Vintage Golf Cart Parts
Specializing in Parts for Harley and many other mature carts
www.vintagegolfcartparts.com
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Phone: 360-385-4868
Fax: 360-379-6633
P.O. Box 425
Port Townsend, WA 98368
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Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "mike young" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: found:94 chevy s10 us electricar truck
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 19:54:26 -0400
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I decided to and just listed this battery less 94 s10 us electricar truck on
ebay it is ebay auction # 330008592579 dont hesitate with questions Mike
young
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Christopher Zach" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: found:94 chevy s10 us electricar truck
> As a friend of mine put it to me. "You spent $5k on an AC drive system
> and got the truck thrown in for free."
>
> Truer words were never spoken.
>
> They have some weak spots that are being addressed. But are good
> vehicles overall.
>
> We are here if you want USE help.
>
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/uselectricar/messages
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> mike young wrote:
>> > Hi everybody, I just located and will be picking up a 94 s10 very
> clean
>> > body top to bottom and underneath and has been sitting for a
> couple yrs
>> > so will need work but it looks complete.It says hughes vector on the
>> > controller under the hood.I am just wondering if it is interesting to
>> > anybody on the list.Email with phone # and i can call you or email
> if u
>> > want to make a deal.I think it will be around $3000.It will be the
> end
>> > of the wk before I pick it up.the thing has like 6000 miles on the
>> > odometer and it looks it. I live in upstate New York. I would love to
>> > keep it but I have enough ev's now to outfit the family with 4
> solectria
>> > force cars plus bob rices parts solectria car I am thankful for.As
> for
>> > the 94 belt drive solectria force I just got the gearbox back from
> the
>> > machine shop after they installed all new gears and bearings of their
>> > design.It happily runs and drives again. let me know what you guys
> think
>> > about this Us electricar s10 pickup. Thanks Mike young
>>
>> Yep, US Electricar truck. Just to let people know, we have been making
>> serious strides towards getting these things fully operational. Between
>> Mike, Andy, and myself we can fix a lot of the problems that have
> popped up.
>>
>> Just don't rip out the controller and motor; it's nicer than you think.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Time Delay Switch for Harley Davidson Needed
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 18:40:14 -0600
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Hello Roderick,
The tube type relay is equal to a Square D plug in 8 pin Type JCK - Class 9050.
There is a Square D Sales office in Seattle. Phone No. 206-232-9702
The timing range of the On-Delay relay is from .01 to 180 seconds either in
adjustable, or you can specific a fixed time relay.
These timers are directly interchangeable with many other 8 pins and 11 pin
tube base timer.
The variable type is a Square D Class 9050 - JCK 11-*
* add voltage code to number which is:
V36 for 12 Vac/Vdc
V14 for 24 Vac/Vdc
V17 for 48 Vac/Vdc
V20 for 120 Vac/Vdc
The sockets for the relay is a 8 Pin type, chassis mount with screw terminals
is Square D Class 8501 Type NR51
References:
http://www.squared.com<http://www.squared.com/>
Field Services - 1-800-634-2003
Literature Center - 1-800-392-8781
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Roderick Wilde<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 5:36 PM
Subject: Time Delay Switch for Harley Davidson Needed
Hi All, they have stopped making the time delay switch for Harley Davidson
golf carts. This switch was used on the old electric carts. Originally it
was a tube that looked like a tube out of an old radio. It's function was to
delay switching the fourth speed solenoid by 1.8 seconds. The third and
fourth contact were the same on the speed control board. Anyone know where I
could find something like this or does anyone want to build them and sell
them to me. The ones we were buying were just two wires about 14 or 16 gauge
coming out of a round potted piece the size of an M-80 firecracker. Any and
all help appreciated.
Roderick
Roderick Wilde
Vintage Golf Cart Parts
Specializing in Parts for Harley and many other mature carts
www.vintagegolfcartparts.com<http://www.vintagegolfcartparts.com/>
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Phone: 360-385-4868
Fax: 360-379-6633
P.O. Box 425
Port Townsend, WA 98368
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Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 20:01:00 -0500
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: AC output to rectifier
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Danny Miller wrote:
>
> I had a thought as an alternate, though still nonisolated, solution:
> http://www.supertex.com/pdf/datasheets/HV9931.pdf
What a weird chip and topology! So you need 8 diodes, a high voltage
MOSFET, two inductors, two high-voltage capacitors, and handful of other
parts and a custom IC to drive an LED? Why didn't they include a
microcomputer as well? :-)
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 18:43:50 -0700
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]>
Subject: Who killed the electric car comes to fresno
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
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The movie is coming to fresno!
I am not sure what the date is but I will be talking to the managers
boss about displaying my EV and maybe get a news crew out there.
I think fresno really deserves this. We are a valley with air problems
and I personally feel as if Fresno was used when the ZEV mandate was
fought here, Fresnan's need to know.
Anyone else in the Fresno area with EV's ? I would like to make an event
out of this. I am not an EVent type of person so suggestions will be
greatly appreciated.
I had better get the EV back on the road ;-)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 21:16:57 -0500
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Time Delay Switch for Harley Davidson Needed
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Roderick Wilde wrote:
> Hi All, they have stopped making the time delay switch for Harley
> Davidson golf carts. This switch was used on the old electric carts.
> Originally it was a tube that looked like a tube out of an old radio.
> It's function was to delay switching the fourth speed solenoid by
> 1.8 seconds. Anyone know where I could find something like this or
> does anyone want to build them and sell them to me?
The original sounds like an Amperite thermal delay relay. They did
indeed look exactly like a vacuum tube; glass with a tube base at one
end. Inside was a nichrome resistor and a bimetal switch. You powered
the resistor, and it heated the bimetal until it snapped from open to
closed. The time delay was produced by how long it took the resistor to
heat the bimetal. Being inside a vacuum bottle prevent the surrounding
ambient temperature from affecting the time delay (much).
There are lots of ways it could be replaced. For example, if it was a
2-wire version, and switched a 12v DC contactor coil, I'd try this
circuit (view with a fixed-width font):
+12v_________________
| |
> |
R1 > _|_ SCR
5.1k > \ _\_/_ C106
|___|/|_____/|
| |\| |
C1 +_|_ \ 1N5235 |
330uF ___ 6.8v |
16vdc | zener |
|____________|
|
__|__
contactor |_ _|_ suppression diode
coil |_ /_\ (or whatever was here)
|_____|
|
|
/ switch to control contactor
| (or whatever was here)
GND___________|
Operation: When you apply 12v power (by closing the switch at the
bottom), the SCR will initially be off, so the contactor is off. But R1
will slowly charge C1. After about 1.8 seconds, C1 will have charged to
6.8v. Now the zener begins to conduct, preventing any further voltage
increase on C1. When the zener current exceeds about 0.2 ma, the SCR
will trigger "on". Now full power is applied to the contactor coil, and
it pulls in. Thus, contactor turn-on is delay 1.8 seconds.
The contactor will remain pulled in until the switch turns back off.
Then the contactor immediately drops out.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 21:44:24 -0500
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Trying to understand shunt regs
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Danny Miller wrote:
> Say we want a constant voltage phase of 2.4v/cell... once the
> current drops below a set point, go to a lower or zero charge...
> The biggest problem is [snip]
I think you are over-analyzing it. An actual battery, and its
interactions with an actual charger and actual regulator are so complex
that simplified theory won't get you very far. You have to actually set
it up and watch what happens.
Yes, a shunt regulator with a negative temperature coefficient tends to
"latch on" when it reaches its threshold. However, the effect is very
mild and it happens very slowly. I saw this with two 6.2v zeners. At a
constant 1 amp charge rate, the battery voltage s-l-o-w-l-y rose to
about 14v, and then s-l-o-w-l-y drifted back down, over many hours.
And, these zener-lamp regulators basically won't burn out unless your
charger gets 'stuck' delivering some high current forever. It could
still happen, but it's more likely that the battery will overheat and
vent first.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 19:56:24 -0700
From: John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: EV 100 handset
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
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Hello to All,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>Anyone have any need for this:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250008178056
>
>
>
I already carry one on my forklift service truck :-)
See Ya....John Wayland
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 20:43:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Daniel Eyk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: costco - no outlet
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
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Hi all, I checked out the Costco in Vancouver,
Washington and there is no EV charge station here
either. Dan
--- Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am told that Costco only put EV charging in CA, AZ
> and GA.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mike
> Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > I sent an email to someone who might know more
> about this nationally.
> > I'll let you know what I find out.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], ev@ wrote:
> > >
> > > I drove around the Costco building in NJ.
> > > no outlets on the building or the parking lot
> > >
> > > is it a west cost only thing?
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Daniel Eyk
Vancouver, Wa.
Electric S-10 project
E-15 project
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 22:20:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: BMS poll
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
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You've gone way past hijacking this thread Roger. But then again, I
expected it. I am asking you to no longer post in this thread, for any
reason.
For those that keep chiming in with the answers I'm looking for, thank
you for braving the distractions. I'm on vacation now and I'll stop the
poll maybe end of this week or so when I'm back.
If you are not sure if your batterys have a qualifying bms, please ask.
I want everyone to contribute that can.
Mike
--- Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Paul G.
> Sent: Sat 15/07/2006 3:43 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: BMS poll
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 15, 2006, at 03:43 AM, Paul G. wrote:
>
> > He did in the post that started this thread.
> >
> >Mike Phillips wrote:
> >>> I thought a poll is appropriate to see how many have
> >>> something attached to each battery that is active in managing the
> >>> battery pack. One charger per battery counts. Having a fancy
> charger
> >>> alone does not count.
> >>>
> >>> So how many folks on this last have bms on their battery pack?
>
>
> You misunderstand what I said. Yes, Mike *did* attempt to redefine
> the term "BMS" in the post that started this thread; the concern I
> have expressed with this is that the conventional usage and
> established meaning of "BMS" differs from what Mike is specifically
> polling about and therefore its use in the subject line is misleading
> and confusing.
>
> >I agree with Steve on this. In fact I think the continual hijacking
> of
> >Mike's thread is getting rude.
>
> I appreciate your and Steve's opinions, hovever, I don't see that I
> have hijacked Mike's thread at all. Indeed, my post was directed at
> Mike specifically; it is *his* poll, and it was up to him to decide
> if he agreed with my concern regarding the questionable use of "BMS"
> in the context of this poll sufficiently to re-post his poll question
> with a new, more appropriate subject line or not. As far as I am
> concerned, it is the posts from people expressing their opinions as
> to whether or not my concern is valid or appropriate, or complaining
> that Mike's thread is being hijacked that are in fact responsible for
> any thread hijacking that may be happening! ;^>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Roger.
>
> > * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> * ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
> * This post contains a forbidden message format *
> * (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
> * Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
> * If your postings display this message your mail program *
> * is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
>
> ------_=_NextPart_001_01C6A8E9.79713F99"
> Subject: RE: BMS poll
> Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 08:06:54 -0700
> Message-ID:
>
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> X-MS-Has-Attach:
> X-MS-TNEF-Correlator:
>
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Thread-Topic: BMS poll
> Thread-Index: AcaoYem4dvMUeYDORGay8nYuhPwLYAAhaEsj
> From: "Roger Stockton--
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 22:22:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Oddball flooded NiCD found
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Can't wait to find out where it's from. Is it shorter than 7 inches
tall?
Mike
--- Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> While dropping things off at the recycling center today I took a
> quick
> look at the battery recycling pile. Normally just starting batteries
> and
> the like, but today I saw something different: A battery with 5 cell
> caps and steel interconnects.
>
> Flooded NiCD. There was only one, and it looks to be a 6 volter. I
> grabbed it, stuck it in the car and took it home. The only thing on
> it
> is MEP-3, along with a min-max water level. All cells report 1.2
> volts,
> will try load testing it tomorrow. I'm guessing it's fine.
>
> Any idea what it came from, and if they might work as flooded NiCDs?
> It
> feels lighter than the BB600's, bigger, maybe it came from a
> emergency
> lamp or something that would stay on float.
>
> Chris
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 22:31:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: found:94 chevy s10 us electricar truck
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Any idea what the extra 5th relay, on the far right, in the gray
junction box goes too?
Mike
--- mike young <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I decided to and just listed this battery less 94 s10 us electricar
> truck on
> ebay it is ebay auction # 330008592579 dont hesitate with questions
> Mike
> young
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Christopher Zach" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 11:46 AM
> Subject: Re: found:94 chevy s10 us electricar truck
>
>
> > As a friend of mine put it to me. "You spent $5k on an AC drive
> system
> > and got the truck thrown in for free."
> >
> > Truer words were never spoken.
> >
> > They have some weak spots that are being addressed. But are good
> > vehicles overall.
> >
> > We are here if you want USE help.
> >
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/uselectricar/messages
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> mike young wrote:
> >> > Hi everybody, I just located and will be picking up a 94 s10
> very
> > clean
> >> > body top to bottom and underneath and has been sitting for a
> > couple yrs
> >> > so will need work but it looks complete.It says hughes vector on
> the
> >> > controller under the hood.I am just wondering if it is
> interesting to
> >> > anybody on the list.Email with phone # and i can call you or
> email
> > if u
> >> > want to make a deal.I think it will be around $3000.It will be
> the
> > end
> >> > of the wk before I pick it up.the thing has like 6000 miles on
> the
> >> > odometer and it looks it. I live in upstate New York. I would
> love to
> >> > keep it but I have enough ev's now to outfit the family with 4
> > solectria
> >> > force cars plus bob rices parts solectria car I am thankful
> for.As
> > for
> >> > the 94 belt drive solectria force I just got the gearbox back
> from
> > the
> >> > machine shop after they installed all new gears and bearings of
> their
> >> > design.It happily runs and drives again. let me know what you
> guys
> > think
> >> > about this Us electricar s10 pickup. Thanks Mike young
> >>
> >> Yep, US Electricar truck. Just to let people know, we have been
> making
> >> serious strides towards getting these things fully operational.
> Between
> >> Mike, Andy, and myself we can fix a lot of the problems that have
> > popped up.
> >>
> >> Just don't rip out the controller and motor; it's nicer than you
> think.
> >>
> >> Chris
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Here's to the crazy ones.
The misfits.
The rebels.
The troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.
The ones who see things differently
The ones that change the world!!
www.RotorDesign.com
--- End Message ---
