EV Digest 5667
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: E-meter Companion
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Dead Digital Dashboard
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
3) Re: Solectria Force
by Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Interesting article on the EV1 and customer support...
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Interesting article on the EV1 and customer support...
by Derrick J Brashear <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Interesting article on the EV1 and customer support...
by "George S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: EVLN(Ocean City nEVs in just about any color that you want)
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Motor mounts or hard bolted to frame (ecobra)
by "steve clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: E-meter Companion
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Tesla Motors unveiled
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Creusen, mfgr of 9.2Kw 120v DC brushless motors etc
by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Tesla Motors unveiled
by nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: DC-DC suggestions
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: E-meter Companion
by "Tim Medeck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: DC-DC suggestions
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: E-meter Companion
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Electric Cats
by "Mark Fisher" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: AC output to rectifier
by Joel Hacker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Tesla Motors unveiled
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
20) Re: E-meter Companion
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: AC output to rectifier
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: E-meter Companion
by "Garret Maki" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Interesting article on the EV1 and customer support...
by "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Tesla Motors unveiled
by "ProEV" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: E-meter Companion
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: AC output to rectifier
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: E-meter Companion
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) UK Campaign for Battery Electric Vehicles
by "brian mcmillan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Tesla Motors unveiled
by Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: DC-DC sugestions
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: Tesla Motors unveiled
by "Tim Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) RE: E-meter Companion
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Doug Weathers wrote:
When and how much?
Probably under $50; it depends on the connectors people want, and how
much the PC board itself runs. The only other expensive part is the DC/DC.
This is just the sort of thing that would make me feel better about
getting a Link-10. I fear that I'd blow it up and never know why.
Yes, I know what you mean. The present design of the E-meter makes it
too easy to wire it wrong!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 7/18/2006 5:20:56 PM Central Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
These meters require an *isolated* 9v supply, that does not have either
its + or - supply leads tied to its + or - inputs. You also cannot share
this supply between two meters.
Another problem is that these meters have *no* input transient or noise
protection. Use a circuit like this (view with a fixed width font):
______
+v___/\/\_______________________|+ |
R1 | | | | |
_|_ _|_ _|_ | | digital multimeter (see
D1 _\_/_ D2/_\ C1 ___ |input | Intersil 7106 for circuit)
| | | | |
-v___/\/\__|_______|_______|____|- |
R2 |______|
R1+R2 totals up to whatever resistance is needed for the desired scale
factor. Splitting it in half doubles the peak voltage rating of the
resistors, and prevents noise from riding in on either + or - wires.
D1 and D2 are ordinary signal diodes (1N4148 etc.) for the +/-200
millivolt scale. For higher voltage scales (like 2v, 20v, or 200v), use
back-to-back zener diodes in series in place of D1 and D2 to clamp
excessive voltages.
C1 is to suppress ordinary noise that's less than the diode's breakdown
voltage. These meters only do a few conversion per second, so C1 can be
0.1uF or so.
Thanks for all your expert help guys. This is what I got so far.
These meters have internal voltage dividers so I won't be able to use
input resistors. I could run the 200V meter as a 200MV and use external
resistors if necessary but I think using Zeners around 70 to 100V (system is
48 V)
would be easier for the pack voltage monitor. They should be hooked in a back
to back arrangement. Banded ends hooked together, other ends hooked across
incoming signal. High quality cap is also hooked across the incoming signal.
I never could get a fixed width font to work but from what I can see,
for the 200MV meter I will need to connect the diodes parallel to incoming
signal one with banded end to + and the other with banded end to -. A high
quality cap is also parallel across the incoming signal.
It all sounds like it should work pretty well. I'll let you know how
it turns out.
Thanks again Rick Miller
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David,
It appears that I was wrong.
I emailed the Solectria group and an EAA Solectria compatriot. 15k to
22k miles on a pack is the life I was given by several owners. One had
a BMS but several did not. Very cool indeed that a pack can last that
long without a BMS. A few posts stated that they didn't get much
different efficiency than my truck. 1-1.5 ah/mile. Not sure how
accurate or which instrumentation they used. These were all cars. No
info on the Solectria S10.
The pack may still be doomed, but not for at least 3 times the
longevity that the USE vehicles packs last for. Then again all lead
acid packs are doomed in the end.
This makes me very curious as to the battery box and layout of the
batts.
Mike
--- David Roden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On 12 Jul 2006 at 16:36, Mike Phillips wrote:
>
> > That
> > car has no BMS. Therefore the battery's are doomed from the start.
>
> I must disagree. Solectria put quite a bit of effort into designing
> a
> battery which doesn't need a BMS to give good service. The secrets
> are
> conservative charging, careful use, and high quality, consistent
> batteries
> (gel modules from Sonnenschein and East Penn). These batteries,
> being
> extremely acid-starved, enforce an 80% DOD limit, which also extends
> cycle
> life. The inverter is programmed to never let them fall below an
> average of
> 10.5v per 12v module, helping to prevent overdischarge.
>
> No doubt fitting a BMS would allow them to give even better service,
> but at
> considerable additional cost (in fact I think a few Forces were
> fitted with
> Badicheqs). However, Forces fitted with the above battery and no BMS
>
> routinely give 4-6 years of service before the battery requires
> replacement.
>
> All that said, one should not expect more than about 30 - 35 miles of
>
> practical range on a Force. Unless the car is fitted with a battery
> thermal
> management system, winter range will be appreciably lower.
>
> Forces are best used in flat or mildly rolling territory. I'm not
> sure they
> really have enough continuous power on tap for long hills. I think
> the year
> you're looking at has a drive which is rated 34kW max, 22kW
> continuously.
> This is based on the Brusa-manufactured AMC325 inverter and GT20T
> motor.
>
> Forces are beautifully-executed, clean, quite reliable conversions,
> though
> there have been some problems with the NLG4 chargers, which as a
> consequence
> should be used on 120 volts only as an emergency measure. They drive
> very
> nicely with smooth, seamless regeneration. Around town they are
> reasonably
> peppy, comparable to 70s-vintage gas powered subcompacts, but they
> are not
> racers or mountain goats.
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Assistant Administrator
>
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>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> > True, but if they had been for sale wouldn't we have been expected to
> > pay the entire cost of the car? The lease was affordable as it was an
> > experiment (IIRC) but how much was an EV1 worth?
> >
> > -Mike
> >
> >
>
> GM spent $1B. That isn't petty cash. Divide by 800 copies. How many
> buyers at $1.25M a piece?
>
> Or what about the secret waiting list of 5000 people? Assuming no more
> marginal cost for 4200 more cars, price is a mere $200,000 a piece. I
> am sure they would have flown out the doors at that price.
>
So, even in the mid-90's, no-one bought $200,000 cars, and there was
no waiting list for even more expensive ones? I don't know which of
these little packets of information is "truth" or "spin", and probably
have *never* trusted anything said by the oil or auto industries
(heck, that even goes for EV companies) on face value.
I doubt people with an apologist stand on this issue won't get an
appreciative audience from the EVDL.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, 19 Jul 2006, John Norton wrote:
GM spent $1B. That isn't petty cash. Divide by 800 copies. How many buyers
at $1.25M a piece?
Or what about the secret waiting list of 5000 people? Assuming no more
marginal cost for 4200 more cars, price is a mere $200,000 a piece. I am
sure they would have flown out the doors at that price.
What about people in the 48 states where there was no waiting list?
If you're going to throw around numbers...
Derrick
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
GM spent $1B. That isn't petty cash. Divide by 800 copies. How many
buyers at $1.25M a piece?
Or what about the secret waiting list of 5000 people? Assuming no more
marginal cost for 4200 more cars, price is a mere $200,000 a piece. I
am sure they would have flown out the doors at that price.
$1B is the cost of to develop just about any new car model, Ford spent
that much on the Taurus. The main problem GM had was that they had to place
the cars with the public because So Cal Edison and other fleets didn't need
a low 2 seater for the meter readers to go out and bang up. So the EV1 was
driven mostly by the public. The other car companies had to place smaller
numbers of cars or their cars were more useful to the fleets. Over a 1000
RAV4s
went to fleets before the public was allowed to lease or buy the last 330.
GM spent more on laywers to fight the mandate than to build cars.
Remember the source of the (mis)information(GM). The ZEV mandate was shot
down
in court before it even started.
George S.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It's not a high speed bus lane because there are many stops along the
routes. Bicyclists and moped renters also use those lanes. There is
also a tram (a pickup truck pulling a trolley type trailer) and
trolley busses use those lane as well. The traffic in those lanes is
not fast moving "mass transit" traffic. It's pretty slow especially
with the trams.
The only problem I see is that everyone needs to access those lanes
at some point to pull into their hotels or to merge onto side streets
since these lanes are the right lanes next to the curb. I could
picture some rowdy guys driving their Hummer on their way to "Purple
Moose Saloon" bearing down on some GEM as they access that lane to
turn into the parking lot.
But most of the time you drive along Coastal Highway that lane is
pretty clear. As I mentioned its just busses, bicyclists (including
electric bikes) and moped users.
The fellow I built the electric choppers for uses those lanes to ride
his bikes when he's in OC and I've ridden my bikes in those lanes.
Chip Gribben
EVA/DC
http://www.nedra.com
On Jul 20, 2006, at 12:42 AM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
From: "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: July 19, 2006 9:40:37 PM EDT
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: EVLN(Ocean City nEVs in just about any color that you
want)
<g> I can see how the bus company would *love* that. Set up a high
speed
lane for public transport, then get behind someone doing 22MPH.
Maybe you
can suggest putting a trailer on the back of public transport.
(Sort of like
they do with bicycles.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chip Gribben" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 2:13 PM
Subject: Re: EVLN(Ocean City nEVs in just about any color that you
want)
Costal Highway has a bus lane both on the north and south stretches
of the highway. It would be nice if the NEVs could also use that
lane. Then you could drive your NEV to your favorite beach
restaurants and stores. I guess they would nick that idea since the
posted speed limit is like 45 mph.
Chip Gribben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <
The real killer is the fore/aft torque of the entire motor/transaxle unit,
reacting against the wheel torque. I "floored it" in reverse from a dead
stop once; there was the satisfying "scree..."
I believe this is the first time I've ever heard Lee talk about burning
rubber "there was the satisfying "scree..." :-)
The last 7 cars/trucks that I've done I've just welded on some "ears" to
the frame and "arms" off the adapter plate , no rubber mounts , I haven't
noticed any vibration from the motor , and so far all is working well .
This makes things easier to build . Before that I'd keep the engine mounts
and make torque arms , many times having the rubber tore out. I leave the
tranny mounts the way they come . It was something that Lee said in a post
long ago , that made me try this .
Steve Clunn
as the tires broke
loose and spun -- but there was also a loud "bang" as the top bar of that
motor mount was torn off, allowing the motor to rise up and hit the bottom
of battery box! And this was with a wimpy ADC 6.7" motor and Curtis 1231C
controller turned down to 400 amps.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
> On-board connectors are possible if they are small.
> I'm afraid 0.250" fastons are too big, though 0.110"
> might fit. They also lack keying and prevention from
> accidental touching.
Yes, about the only thing the 0.250" fastons have going for them is that
they're commonly available and easy for any end user to install on their
harness. If put on leads rather than onboard, the accidental touching
issue can largely be addressed by using insulated versions, but there's
still the keying issue...
> Yes, I rather like the idea of wire leads and off-board
> connectors myself. It saves room on the board, you don't
> have to reach up behind the dash and fumble for
> connectors,
Given that the E-Meter installs from the *front* of the dash hole, I
would hope that noone would use a harness so short that they could not
pull the wires through the hole and attach them to the Companion in
plain sight before slipping the meter into the dash and securing it with
the retaining ring.
> and it lets the user have whatever kind of connector
> system he/she likes.
Are you then considering supplying the Companion with flying
leads/pigtails and leaving it to the user to terminate them in whatever
connectors they fancy. This seems to defeat much of the added safety
you are attempting to provide since the likelihood of miswiring is then
reduced only perhaps by the colour-coded wires being more readily
identifiable than the holes on the E-Meter terminal block.
> The Weatherpacks are good, but I wonder how available
> the average person finds them to be?
Waytek sells them, and I've also found them readily available at one of
the local auto parts retailers (haven't made a point of checking other
stores to see how common they are), but they will certainly not be as
readily available as fastons.
> Once I get them tight, the screws seem to hold ok.
> Maybe it's good for them to tighten against a solid
> object like a brass pin?
>
> The problems I've had have been related to stranded
> wire. I wonder if soldering them just produces another
> soft mushy "wire" that wants to cold-flow and loosen?
Perhaps; it's been quite a while since I had problems with mine. I
installed it in an enclosure with the prescaler, dc/dc, opto-isolator
and fuses and brought the wiring out to a 6-way Weatherpack connector
(supply +/-, shunt +/-, pack +/-) and a 2-way Weatherpack (temp sensor)
to make it easier to move from one setup to another and honestly don't
recall if I've used stranded, tinned, or solid wires in the terminal
block!
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.teslamotors.com
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hehe
"Regen" while standing still - as anchored in a few knots of tidal or
river current. How cool is THAT! :)
Lock
--- Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Regen on a sailboat. How cool is that!
> Mike
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Wow.
That's a very beautiful EV. Shame it's so darned expensive!
;)
Nikki.
______
The Girl, The Car. The Blog.
http://www.aminorjourney.co.uk
______
On 20 Jul 2006, at 08:31, Cor van de Water wrote:
http://www.teslamotors.com
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John Grigg wrote:
"Hi all, I been having a streak of bad luck lately. My ICE just
committed suicide and then one day later my EV's DC-DC fries.
I would like to hear some suggestions on what to replace the dc-dc with.
Has anyone used the IOTA DLS-220-55 with a 240v system yet?
I have the MR2 power steering system so the 12V load can be a little
high."
Hi, John. I plan to use it on my fiero. It can be time consuming getting the
answer to a technical query from Iota, but they finally did get back to me to
say it should work fine at expected charging and discharging voltages. I'm
aiming for a pack voltage of 264V (22 batteries), but I may have to go lower
(240 or 252V). www.solarseller.com has an excellent price, and has some in
stock.
I always wondered if it would be simple to build a PWM circuit for the MR2 pump
that would sense vehicle speed, so it could be full on at 20 and under when you
need it the most, and at some minimal duty cycle when you were up to speed.
Might be easier if it had a higher voltage motor, though.
David Brandt
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
Probably under $50; it depends on the connectors people want, and how much
the PC board itself runs. The only other expensive part is the DC/DC.
Put me down for 2 units! No, wait, make that 3. The Corvair needs one also.
Tim Medeck
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi, John. I plan to use it on my fiero. It can be time consuming getting
> the answer to a
> technical query from Iota, but they finally did get back to me to say it
> should work fine at
> expected charging and discharging voltages. I'm aiming for a pack voltage of
> 264V (22
> batteries), but I may have to go lower (240 or 252V). www.solarseller.com
> has an excellent
> price, and has some in stock.
>
Did the Iota people mention the DC voltage range you can use with their units?
In particular, how
high a pack voltage will the 240VAC (DLS-220-30) unit connect to?
Dave Cover
PS The SolarSeller prices do look better than any I've seen before.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ok, How about something that can read the motor ampere and motor voltage at the
same time the battery ampere and battery voltage is read.
Display this data all at once so the user can do the ratio calculations between
the two, or better yet, have the instrument do the calculations.
I was thinking of using four E-meters to do this, because it a lot cheaper then
using a industrial digital panel that can take the extreme temperature changes
and road virabration that also need a lot of support equipment.
This type of indication will then give you the true watts per mile that the
motor is using, subtracting out the accessory drive systems.
It could store history of prior motor data to the present motor data, which
would indicated when the motor needs maintenance. I now do this by reading
the resistance of the motor fields and commentator to the motor frame about
once a year.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Lee Hart<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 10:49 PM
Subject: Re: E-meter Companion
Doug Weathers wrote:
> When and how much?
Probably under $50; it depends on the connectors people want, and how
much the PC board itself runs. The only other expensive part is the DC/DC.
> This is just the sort of thing that would make me feel better about
> getting a Link-10. I fear that I'd blow it up and never know why.
Yes, I know what you mean. The present design of the E-meter makes it
too easy to wire it wrong!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lock:
.......Fwd: African Cats Offers First Fossil Fuel-Free Catamaran
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "lockhughes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
This subject is the title for a copy of a press release received
from African Cats BV, dated June 16,2006, and posted on the EVWorld
website here:
http://www.evworld.com/view.cfm?section=communique&newsid=12205
or tinyURL here:
http://tinyurl.com/rwrjs
.............
Press releases are not always completely accurate. Solomon Technologies has
had their motor/generator/controller units in cats for a number of years
(5?)
http://www.solomontechnologies.com/multihull.htm
from 2004:
http://www.solomontechnologies.com/privilage_becomes.htm
Granted, the Privilège did carry fossil fuels for its supplemental genset.
Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You can also get a ceiling fan/motor speed control switch...someo of
those are rated at 1000W, and, correct me if I am wrong, but they
would not have a dc bias, and they would already have the capacitor
onboard.
P.S. I always thought that the hum was because of a bad PF...
causing the current to spike because it was out of sync with
the voltage...is this true, or not?
Lee Hart wrote:
Steve Condie wrote:
An interesting point - I wanted to be able to generate an adjustable
DC voltage from 2-15 volts... so I connected a dimmer to a transformer
and a rectifier bridge for a test voltage generator. The unit hummed
badly at mid-level voltage, less so at low and high settings. I wonder
if that was related to this DC output issue?
Yes; the loud hum is evidence of the transformer's core saturating,
because the dimmer has a DC offset.
A typical dimmer has its lowest DC offset when fully on. The DC offset
gets worse as you turn it down. It is at its worst near the bottom
(lowest) setting, but since the total current is also low, this setting
may not be the worst for transformer heating.
To eliminate the DC offset (without buying a better dimmer), you can add
an AC rated capacitor in series with the transformer primary. This
*must* be a film or paper/oil type -- *NOT* an electrolytic! It blocks
any DC, so the transformer is happy. Depending on the value of capacitor
relative to the transformer's inductance, it also has the interesting
effect of *raising* the primary voltage above line voltage!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes!! The cover is finally off.
I didn't see where the price is posted. However, it has to be expensive. It's
not being mass produced (yet) like conventional cars. If you bought every
part, individually, to build a Ford Pinto it would probably cost $100,000.00.
Well, no I did not actually price all the parts, but, I do buy electronic parts
in volume and the price breaks are about that ratio.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 3:59 AM
Subject: Re: Tesla Motors unveiled
Wow.
That's a very beautiful EV. Shame it's so darned expensive!
;)
Nikki.
______
The Girl, The Car. The Blog.
http://www.aminorjourney.co.uk
______
On 20 Jul 2006, at 08:31, Cor van de Water wrote:
> http://www.teslamotors.com
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM.
All on demand. Always Free.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> For interested parties:
I'm interested, especially in the carried away version.
> 1. What kind of connectors would you like to see?
I'll probably put inline connectors in the harness so I can disconnect the
whole thing if I need
to. I wouldn't mind being able to solder to the board, or have plain leads
presoldered so I don't
mess up a perfectly good board.
> 2. Should the connectors be on the board itself, or wire leads to off-board
> connectors?
My only other thought on this issue is the depth of the Emeter. Even thought
they have the same
footprint as most aftermarket dash gauges, they are a lot deeper. If someone
were trying to fit an
emeter in a tight spot, making it even deeper might be an issue. I'll be
installing mine in a new
location, so I have all the space in the world.
> 3. Other questions or comments?
I don't have the RS-232 version of the Emeter, would the RS-232 off the
companion card be of any
use to me? I have a Z1k, so I plan on having a Palm on board all the time for
serial connection.
(Or maybe a small laptop, if neccesary.)
Dave Cover
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--- Begin Message ---
Ooh ooh, wait a second. I have a seperate control unit for my ceiling fan that
bolts right to the
fan base. It controls on/off, provides 3 levels of speed, is silent, and has
on/off for another
device. The best part, it has a REMOTE! How many people have a charger with
remote control? Oh
well, maybe you need a little more control than just 3 levels.
--- Joel Hacker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> You can also get a ceiling fan/motor speed control switch...someo of
> those are rated at 1000W, and, correct me if I am wrong, but they
> would not have a dc bias, and they would already have the capacitor
> onboard.
>
> P.S. I always thought that the hum was because of a bad PF...
> causing the current to spike because it was out of sync with
> the voltage...is this true, or not?
>
> Lee Hart wrote:
> > Steve Condie wrote:
> >
> >> An interesting point - I wanted to be able to generate an adjustable
> >> DC voltage from 2-15 volts... so I connected a dimmer to a transformer
> >> and a rectifier bridge for a test voltage generator. The unit hummed
> >> badly at mid-level voltage, less so at low and high settings. I wonder
> >> if that was related to this DC output issue?
> >
> >
> > Yes; the loud hum is evidence of the transformer's core saturating,
> > because the dimmer has a DC offset.
> >
> > A typical dimmer has its lowest DC offset when fully on. The DC offset
> > gets worse as you turn it down. It is at its worst near the bottom
> > (lowest) setting, but since the total current is also low, this setting
> > may not be the worst for transformer heating.
> >
> > To eliminate the DC offset (without buying a better dimmer), you can add
> > an AC rated capacitor in series with the transformer primary. This
> > *must* be a film or paper/oil type -- *NOT* an electrolytic! It blocks
> > any DC, so the transformer is happy. Depending on the value of capacitor
> > relative to the transformer's inductance, it also has the interesting
> > effect of *raising* the primary voltage above line voltage!
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
Lee,
Great idea. Wish I had one a year ago, but I need another so I would
buy one. I like the Phoenix Contacts Combicon compact myself. It is
also a captive screw terminal. Flying leads would be fine and I could
put on whatever I liked. The thing I like about these is that they are
reusable connectors, that may make them less reliable in an environment
like a vehicle though.
Roger,
The captive screw terminals are the standard in the pro audio
installation world that I work in. The wire should NOT be tinned when
using these connectors. The contact of the dissimilar materials will
loosen over time no matter how tight it was when you first put it in.
The wires should be left untinned or best practice is to use crimp wire
ferrules such as these
http://www.americanelectrical.com/wireferrules.htm .
This will take care of the stray strands.
Garret Maki
72v FJ1100
Broomfield Colorado
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--- Begin Message ---
Don't get me wrong. I'm not defending GM. I would have looooved to buy
and EV1. I'm just saying at the price it would have sold at, there is
about a zero chance I could have afforded to do so.
Hell, I'd love a Prius, but I can't afford that anymore either. It's
my seven year old Gas 2.0L Jetta for me, untill I get my conversion
done.
-Mike
On 7/20/06, Death to All Spammers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I doubt people with an apologist stand on this issue won't get an
appreciative audience from the EVDL.
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--- Begin Message ---
Great looking car!
Does anyone know the weight of the car or the battery capacity? I could not
find them on the website.
Cliff
www.ProEV.com
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--- Begin Message ---
Tim Medeck wrote:
Lee Hart wrote:
Probably under $50; it depends on the connectors people want, and how
much the PC board itself runs. The only other expensive part is the
DC/DC.
Put me down for 2 units! No, wait, make that 3. The Corvair needs one also.
Ok! Any opinions on what kind of connectors to use?
PS: What is your mailing address? I copied a pile of electric Corvair
documents that I can send you.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Joel Hacker wrote:
P.S. I always thought that the hum was because of a bad PF...
causing the current to spike because it was out of sync with
the voltage...is this true, or not?
Power factor by itself won't cause any noise in a motor or transformer.
However, a transformer or motor can act as a (poor) loudspeaker. 60hz
hum is very low, and hard to hear. If there are high frequency harmonics
in the AC current, the sound they produce will be of a correspondingly
higher frequency that our ears are more sensitive to.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roland Wiench wrote:
How about something that can read the motor ampere and motor voltage
at the same time the battery ampere and battery voltage is read?
Display this data all at once so the user can do the ratio
calculations between the two, or better yet, have the instrument do
the calculations.
I was thinking of using four E-meters to do this, because it a lot
cheaper then using a industrial digital panel...
The E-meter already measures volts and amps, and computes amphours,
kilowatthours, and other data from it. You could use a second E-meter,
wired to measure motor volts and amps. As they are extremely noisy, I
wonder if the E-meter's internal noise filters are "up" to the job.
The separate micro board I designed actually has two serial ports, so
you could connect it to two E-meters and do calculations with the data.
There are four 4-digit LEDs, so you could display up to four values at once.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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--- Begin Message ---
Hello all,
We are setting up a campaign website in the UK to promote the uptake of Battery Electric Vehicles.
If anyone on this list would like to help with writing any of it please let me know at
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
here's the site so far;
Thanks!
Brian
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--- Begin Message ---
Cool ride. 177 wh/mile. 200 mile range. 0-60 in 3.9sec.
Can't wait to see them on the drag strip.
Mike
--- Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> http://www.teslamotors.com
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
Here's to the crazy ones.
The misfits.
The rebels.
The troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.
The ones who see things differently
The ones that change the world!!
www.RotorDesign.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I believe Mr. Wilde is using an IOTA as a DC/DC in Gone Postal, without
any problems.
Grigg. John wrote:
Hi all, I been having a streak of bad luck lately. My ICE just
committed suicide and then one day later my EV's DC-DC fries.
I would like to hear some suggestions on what to replace the dc-dc with.
Has anyone used the IOTA DLS-220-55 with a 240v system yet?
I have the MR2 power steering system so the 12V load can be a little
high.
Thanks for any input..
John Grigg
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/723
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>From the wired magazine article linked from Tesla's site.......
"The Roadster's sporty styling allowed Eberhard to maximize the car's range and
still win a drag race. With its
two-person capacity and aerodynamic contours, the lightweight machine can go
250 miles on a single charge. (When
connected to a special 220-volt, 70-amp outlet, recharging takes about three
and a half hours.) Plus, the sports car
class lets Eberhard price it on the high end -- in the range of a Porsche 911
Carrera S, roughly $80,000."
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2006 9:19 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Tesla Motors unveiled
>
> Yes!! The cover is finally off.
>
> I didn't see where the price is posted. However, it has to be expensive.
> It's not being mass produced (yet) like conventional cars. If you bought
> every part, individually, to build a Ford Pinto it would probably cost
> $100,000.00. Well, no I did not actually price all the parts, but, I do buy
> electronic parts in volume and the price breaks are about that ratio.
>
> Ken
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: [email protected]
> Sent: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 3:59 AM
> Subject: Re: Tesla Motors unveiled
>
>
> Wow.
>
> That's a very beautiful EV. Shame it's so darned expensive!
>
> ;)
>
> Nikki.
>
> ______
>
> The Girl, The Car. The Blog.
> http://www.aminorjourney.co.uk
> ______
> On 20 Jul 2006, at 08:31, Cor van de Water wrote:
>
>> http://www.teslamotors.com
>>
>> Cor van de Water
>> Systems Architect
>> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
>> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
>> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130 Proxim Wireless Networks
>> eFAX: +1-610-423-5743 Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and
> IM. All on demand. Always Free.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Garret Maki wrote:
> Roger,
> The captive screw terminals are the standard in the pro audio
> installation world that I work in. The wire should NOT be tinned when
> using these connectors. The contact of the dissimilar materials will
> loosen over time no matter how tight it was when you first put it in.
> The wires should be left untinned or best practice is to use
> crimp wire ferrules such as these
> http://www.americanelectrical.com/wireferrules.htm .
> This will take care of the stray strands.
Thanks for the advice, Garret! My memory is fuzzy, but what you say
agrees with what I think I remember doing (misguidedly tinning the ends
of the stranded wires before tightening them in the terminals).
I haven't had any issue with stray strands, but those ferrules look like
just the ticket for solving that problem and for avoiding wear and tear
on the end of a stranded wire that was going to be inserted and removed
from the screw terminal many times over its life.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
