EV Digest 5752
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Electric Pony Express for my motor
by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: newbie questions
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Corvette with 1.3L Hybrid
by Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: WKTEC in Winter Park, FL
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: YouTube, Inc. and EV promo
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Electric Car Bush Hybrid Plugin
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Mitsubishi Eclipse Conversion
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: newbie questions
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Fiberglass box questions
by "jerryd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) A simple battery box?
by "Tom Gocze" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: No dc-dc converters
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Full Range DC converter
by "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: No dc-dc converters
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
14) Re: Buying a 914 for electric conversion
by Don M <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Mitsubishi Eclipse Conversion
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Corvette with 1.3L Hybrid
by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: NiFe Batteries
by Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: NiFe Batteries
by Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Electric Pony Express for my motor
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Contactor Last Off
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: newbie questions
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Electric Car Bush Hybrid Plugin
by Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: YouTube, Inc. and EV promo
by Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Electric Pony Express for my motor. Motor haulin'
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Electric Car Bush Hybrid Plugin
by Marc Geller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE: Zebra batteries
by "Lawrie, Robin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Jim Husted has graciously offered to rebuild my motor, at least
partway. With his reputation -- not to mention the price -- I can't
possibly refuse.
Of course, I'm a penny pincher. So if I can avoid paying $150 each way
for shipping from Florida to Oregon, I'll be a happy camper.
Consider this a call for help. My brother drives a delivery truck and
makes regular trips from Florida to "Rooms2Go" stores in North Carolina,
Tennessee, and Texas. He's willing to take the motor along on one of
his trips. I'm trying to get a chain of people who are each willing to
take the motor part of the way towards Oregon -- or at least, cheaper
shipping.
Jim was excited over the story we could all tell! If we can actually
put this together, I'll make a T-shirt available through Cafe Press (or
somewhere) and even throw in a couple of bucks on the purchase for the
participants. We just can't let the price get greater than DHL shipping
from Florida.
If you're interested, leave a comment on my website:
http://judebert.com/EV/First_Assessment.html and include where you are
and how far you're willing to take go to pick it up and drop it off.
Thanks!
Jude "Spark Lad" Anthony
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Mike, and welcome to the list!
I'll attempt some answers...
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I'm new to the list and had some unanswered
> questions. When a manual
> transmission is used in a conversion, how and why
> would someone want to make it
> clutchless.
A clutch is for smoothing transition in a combustion
engine. With an electric motor, the transition is
already pretty smooth, but that is a guess.
I understand an EV drives a bit
> differently than an ICE in that you
> don't have to take it out of gear when coming to a
> stop, but I need some
> clarification.
This is accurate. If you DO take it out of gear
before coming to a stop, the flywheel/motor are still
spinning. If you slam the clutch up, your car will
jerk, as you force the flywheel to stop.
And why do I hear that you only need
> the first two gears?
My motor is allowed to rev to 6K RPMs. In my
CivicWithACord, that means first will take me to 40
mph. It's a bit noisy at that high, so I usually put
it into 2nd before then. Revving to 6K RPMs in 2nd
takes me to 60. 3rd takes me to 72. I could use
4th/5th, but with electric motors, your torque really
tapers off, and the amperage REALLY fluctuates.
Besides Oregon State Police frown on my going much
past 72.
If I I
> have a 5 speed wouldn't it be beneficial to put it
> in 5th gear at highway speeds,
> as opposed to leaving it in 2nd?
> I had a renewed inspiration after watching An
> Inconvenient Truth and Who
> Killed The Electric Car
> and I am no longer willing to wait for the car
> companies to make an all
> electric car. I need some advice from the list as
> to what would be the best donor
> car for my needs.
A Civic like mine will be (IMHO) cute, aerodynamic,
and proven. But you'll spend an extra 1K to beef up
the suspension, compared to say, a Nissan truck.
I have an above average commute
> of 60 miles each way, so I
> would need a range of 120 miles round trip. Which
> leads to the question of
> how far can one safely bring down the battery charge
> capacity without killing
> the life expectancy of the batts, 50% of capacity?
> 30%?
Sorry bro, without lithium, you just put yourself out
of the ball game. 45 mi. range tops for leaded
floodies, as far as I'm concerned. Others will say
use 6 volters and get a bigger car, though...
Does that mean that I'd
> have to design the car to travel more than the
> expected range so as not to
> harm the batteries?
Exactly. The deeper you cycle, the shorter the life.
I realize this is asking a lot
> of a lead acid conversion so
> I would have to go one of three ways 1. get a pickup
> with a bed loaded with
> tons of batteries 2. go the more efficient route
> and get a small lightweight
> aerodynamic car, or 3. continue to sit on my ass
> burning fossil fuels while
> waiting for alternative batteries like Lithiums to
> come down in price.
Ahhh, you DID watch the movie!
The 2nd
> choice is the way I'd like to go. I'd even strip
> the car down to the bare
> essentials, modify the aerodynamics (plug the
> radiator inlet, door handles, add rear
> wheel skirts, underbody sheeting etc...).
> Eliminating the air conditioning
> and heat wouldn't bother me either if it'd help meet
> the range requirements.
> My current car is a 1994 Honda civic 3door
> hatchback and it couldn't have
> been a better choice for my needs, which makes me
> lean towards using a Honda
> for their reliability and Safety. so far, I've put
> 227,000 trouble free miles
> on it, but my wallet has been taking a hit as I've
> watched my gas mileage
> dwindle from the nearly 50 MPG it got when new to
> the now 35 MPG since the engine
> is getting worn.
> My three biggest criteria are Range, (surprise
> surprise), safety, and
> reliability in that order. So I'd like to use a
> donor car after 1994 so it would
> have airbags, and parts availability wouldn't be so
> much of an issue. I'd
> like to use my same car
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/379 but at 3,000
> Lbs.
> it's not exactly lightweight. A Honda CRX would be
> a nice 2 seater and I hear
> the old HF model only weighed 1,800 pounds, but it
> doesn't have airbags.
Where do you plan to put batts. in a CRX?
The
> CRX became the DEL SOL
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/342 which I like,
> but
> again it's a little heavy. Since I would just hop
> on the freeway (I live in
> Southern California) and cruise at 65 Mph for an
> hour I don't think an AC setup
> would be of much benefit cause as I understand it
> now, an AC motor is about 10%
> more efficient than DC due to the regenerating
> during braking, but if I don't
> do much braking it wouldn't be worth it right? If
> my needs are unrealistic,
> I suppose I can find a way to recharge it at work,
> but if possible I'd like to
> avoid that as a last option. The other alternative
> is if I can get 90 miles
> range which would let me go to work and halfway back
> home to a recharging
> station (my Grandma's house) where I can recharge
> enough to make it the rest of
> the way home. That makes me wonder about recharging
> times, how fast can I
> recharge it? I've heard of mass dumpings in mere
> minutes, but that would be from a
> large bank of DC batteries. Is it simple to make
> the car charge from 240
> volt outlets like for a household dryer (like the
> Rav 4) for faster charging
> times, while also keeping the ability to charge off
> a standard 120V outlet? I
> don't care about looks really so whatever car works
> is fine with me, I hear some
> people have had success with Geo Metros.
> I can't wait for the day when the roads have
> featherlite 3 wheeled
> graphite lithium powered cars, but they're no match
> for a big SUV in a collision so
> until that time, I want something lightweight, but
> not at the expense of
> safety. Could an EV conversion with all these
> constraints be made for about
> $10,000-$15,000? Thank you for any responses I hope
> I didn't ask too much, but I'm
> very curious.
>
Back up for a moment. You need a car with huge range,
which means lots of batteries. The car will cost
10-15K, and you're a 3rd party conversion. Many
insurance companies won't cover the replacement cost,
just liability. The point is, if you're hit by an
uninsured driver in SoCal, you've just been screwed
out of a really nice EV. That's been ONE of my
barriers to putting in longer range (NiCad) batteries.
You've definitely joined the ranks, by asking the
questions that we struggle with on our own
conversions.
All the best to you, & let me know if my resources can
help you.
peace ,
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I didn't say that...
Cor van de Water wrote:
Martin,
Then I could claim 50mph or better..
Did you mean 50 mpG?
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 12 Aug 2006 at 4:24, Jude Anthony wrote:
> Toyota's
> recent announcement of the plug-in Prius.
Has this been officially announced? Last I heard Toyota were still
repeating the old "no such plans" party line. I believe I heard something
about waiting for the right battery, but I might have been dreaming.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
Looks like this got lost in the e-mail vortex. Re-transmit
*************************
Just added the report the local ABC news team did on my Electrabishi truck last
week.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyV9qQleBDI
Looks like there is a growing number of news reports contradicting the Ford
Eviro lady's claim that there is no market for E- cars
and that hydorgen is the wave of the futre. How many hydrogen cars did you pass
on the way to work today? How many hydrogen
re-fueling stations did you see today?
Just got finished with the Alaska Renewable Energy Fair today. (full report to
follow in separate thread). After EVeryone got
done looking at the Hybrids and flex- fuels and they came and checked out the
electric and heard some cold hard facts, they asked
"Why can't I buy one of these?" Now they're hooked, referred them to WKtEC
starting next week. :-)
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Lock Hughes
> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 12:34 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: YouTube, Inc. and EV promo
>
>
> Caught a comment recently on the evdl... someone reporting climbing hit
> counts to their EV web site. Perhaps a credit to WKtEC and gas prices
> in NA.
>......
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How'd I miss this one. Bush is pushing Plug-Ins?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXz6hnQr2gk
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Has anyone done or considered an Eclipse conversion.
I found a pretty good deal on a donor with no motor.
The price is right at $1k
http://anchorage.craigslist.org/car/193403522.html
I'm wondering how an Eclipse would be to convert?
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
G'day Mike, and All
Well, you ask a mixed bag of questions, I'll have a go at them, but you're
asking across a diverse set of experience, and very few have experience on
such long range EVs. Your "ideal" vehicle will depend on what you can put
into the vehicle, skills-wise as well as $s, and may be unattainable in the
manner you are currently viewing it.
At 12:29 AM 14/08/06 -0400, Mike20sm wrote:
I'm new to the list and had some unanswered questions. When a manual
transmission is used in a conversion, how and why would someone want to
make it
clutchless. I understand an EV drives a bit differently than an ICE in
that you
don't have to take it out of gear when coming to a stop, but I need some
clarification.
A clutchless design can be cheaper, has no clutch to slip if you have lots
of horsepower, and if you have lots of horsepower you don't need to change
gear very often. On the downside it slows down gear changes a lot (so
prevents showing off all that horsepower), and wears the synchromesh a lot
more.
And why do I hear that you only need the first two gears? If I I
have a 5 speed wouldn't it be beneficial to put it in 5th gear at highway
speeds,
as opposed to leaving it in 2nd?
Rule of thumb: pretty much all electric motors are happiest running in the
top 25% of RPM range. Torque is produced by amps, horsepower is torque x
RPM, so if the RPMs are high you get plenty of horsepower without so many
amps (amps generate heat, heat kills motors and is wasted energy). The gear
ratios in a typical 5-speed gearbox take second and third gear into the
right ratios for around town or on the highway to keep the motor in its'
higher RPM range.
I had a renewed inspiration after watching An Inconvenient Truth and Who
Killed The Electric Car
and I am no longer willing to wait for the car companies to make an all
electric car. I need some advice from the list as to what would be the
best donor
car for my needs. <snip a lot> Could an EV conversion with all these
constraints be made for about
$10,000-$15,000? Thank you for any responses I hope I didn't ask too
much, but I'm
very curious.
I believe you will struggle to meet that budget and range, except with a
"lead sled" built on a truck chassis (a custom chassis will be outside your
budget unless you can build it yourself). Before making any recommendation
for your needs it'd help to know what resources are available to you. Do
you have good mechanical skills? welding? a workshop? access to machining?
Fibreglass fabrication? contacts in industrial junk dealers?
Maximizing your dollars is the way you can achieve this. I have an ambition
(but no need for at this time) a concept that'd fit your needs as follows:
get a truck chassis - S10/S15 or similar, get a lightweight streamlined
body/kit car/etc to put on it. Turn the diff over/around and put the motors
right in the back (twin DC motors, series/parallel switch plus
series/parallel the fields for 4 "gears". Add a BIG stack of wet lead-acid
batteries in an accessable central tunnel. Control gear in what would
otherwise be the engine bay or the boot (trunk). Here in Aussie there used
to be a corvette-ish style kit car available that was put onto a chassis
that was a "one tonner" ute (pickup truck) that started off pretty heavy.
One of these would make a good starting point - probably get over 50%
battery weight for good range.
All-up weight doesn't matter (as long as your handling isn't compromised)
since once you are at speed it is the aerodynamics not the weight.
Fast charging will help, placing a big off-board charger at the halfway
point to pick up a charging boost would be a help, regardless of vehicle (a
PFC 50 would be great, but probably 'blow' your budget). 50A at 240V is
12kW, depending on the vehicle this could mean 15 min recharging gives 30
min more driving, but probably less - others should be able to comment
further on this. But can you put up with waiting in the middle of every
commute? (it'd annoy me). A better option may be battery trailers - a small
battery pack in the vehicle for errands, switch over trailers halfway and
let the depleted one charge over the day at a lower rate. A well designed
streamliner trailer can help the aerodynamics a lot.
What you ask isn't impossible - but it will be very hard on your allowed
budget and need a LOT of input from you. May be best to decide that your
budget needs to be a lot more, and work out how to make it be available. Or
buy a European diesel, do your aero mods and efficiency mods, and in 5 to
10 years' time convert that.
Hope this helps
Regards
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Lock, Jack and All,
I'm going witrh Lock here as your box layup
is way too heavy, Do it like Lock says will be many lbs
lighter.
If going wood and glass, do 1/4" ply with
just inside glass with epoxy. If you seal wood with glass on
both sides, it will rot once it gets wet.
I agree resin should be low but you can get
that with a squegee.
jerry
----- Original Message Follows -----
From: Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Fiberglass box questions
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 01:45:31 -0400 (EDT)
>--- Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Dave, i've done a fair bit of fiberglass working making
>> body parts, but not structural stuff.
>> I'd assume that the glass is basically sealing off the
>> wood, and given you know wood, make the wood strong, and
>> use a thin layer should be sufficient.
>
> Hang on a sec Jack! I have to bow to (build) experience
>every time, but I do have some *use* experience. I have a
>sailboat built as a racer (strong and light weight), built
>back in 1980. The hulls (yah, there're two of `em) are a
>"sandwich" of GRP and foam. The core (closed-cell foam) by
>itself is actually pretty floppy stuff. *All* the strength
>is in the skin. Each hull is 20 feet long and roughly 1.5
>foot in diameter, and weighs 50lbs, just to give an idea of
>how light weight the construction is.
>
>> The resin holds it together, so it should be as thick as
>> the glass itself.
>
> Don't think so! Hence my earlier reference in a call to
>Jerry to quit his "vacuum bagging" for a minute. Very often
>these days a vacuum bag process is used, specifically to
>get the resin content in the matrix LOW by squeezing out
>excess resins. It's stronger and lighter that way.
>
>> For resin, epoxy is more expensive but doesn't create bad
>> fumes, your wife and neighbors will appreciate using the
>> epoxy, and it doesn't shrink like the other stuff, so I'd
>use it.
>
> Yes, more expensive, but not so much for a small job.
>(Boat) builders will use poly `cause it's cheaper, but also
>`cause it's not as brittle as epoxy, so has some give
>(again, the earlier reference to tall structures built to
>sway in the wind, rather than snap.)
>
> Wood fibre is *great* build material. Product
>development: millions of years of swaying in the wind. Two
>key things: Dry the moisture content of the wood down to
>about 10% before you seal it off, and, definitely,
>absolutely, completely, seal it off to keep the moisture
>out.
>
>The Gougeon brothers literally "wrote the book" on
>wood-epoxy construction, and money spent on a copy of their
>book would be money well spent for anyone contemplating
>wood/plastic composite construction.
>
>http://www.gougeon.com/
>
>Tks
>Lock
>Toronto
>
>> Hope that helps,
>> Jack
>>
>> Dave Cover wrote:
>> > I'm considering building some battery boxes out of
>> fiberglass and wood. I have no experience
>> > working with fiberglass, but lot's with wood. The box
>> will be about 14 inches wide and about 33
>> > inches long. The box will be supported primarily from
>> the top edge, with one cross brace
>> > underneath about 2/3 down it's lenght. I'll run some
>> wooden slats the long way down the box floor
>> > for support. It will need to hold around 225 lbs of
>> cells. Building a box out of plywood is easy,
>> > but it will suffer from road salt and electrolyte.
>> Paint will help, but that's a short term
>> > solution. If I use fiberglass, it will not be affected
>> by the environment, but I don't know how to
>> > make it strong enough by itself. So I'm looking to make
>> a wooden box and fiberglass it. Not an
>> > original idea.
>> >
>> > Here are my questions, all from a fiberglass newbie;
>> > 1. How many layers should I put down to to protect the
>> > wood? 2. Am i better off using 3/4" plywood and a thin
>> glass skin or thinner plywood and more glass?
>> > 2. How thick are the layers of applied fiberglass, (for
>> planning dimensions?) Is one layer 1/8th
>> > of an inch, 2 layers 3/16ths?
>> > 3. How structural can the fiberglass be? If I build up
>> a 1/4 inch layer, is that stronger than the
>> > wooden box?
>> > 4. What type of fiberglass should I use? I've seen
>> Knytex, Volan treated, etc.
>> > 5. What weight cloth? 8oz, double layer 4.4 oz?
>> > 6. What type of resin should I use to resist the NiCd
>> > electrolyte?
>> > Sorry about the tenderfoot questions, any help is
>> > appreciated.
>> > Thanks
>> >
>> > Dave Cover
>
>__________________________________________________
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>Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection
>around http://mail.yahoo.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am just in the throes of doing a battery box on my S10 pickup. I did not
install any batteries under the hood, wanting to keep access easy for all those
components. And the nicads I am using a rather tall, so, I removed the original
bed and built a wooded pressure treated one. Am planning on building fiberglass
covered foam walls to look like the original, but should be a lot lighter(?)
Am sacrificing a lot of bed space in this approach, but it is very easy to keep
an eye on the nicads. After testing at 72V, I removed all the batteries and
coated the pressure treated with Geocel rubber roof coating. There are a lot of
coatings like this. It is a liquid rubber, like EPDM (which is used for wire
insulation). I installed four coats and when it cures (4 hrs a coat), it is
like a solid piece of rubber. It fills any holes and flows nicely. I will post
some pix on the photo album soon. Also used some thin, 1/8" polyethylene film
under the cells as a release, since the coating was a little tacky when I put
in the batteries.
Now to install a full 120V worth.
Tom in Maine
www.hotandcold.tv
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--- Begin Message ---
I'm in the same boat. If I get all the cells in my pack that I plan it will be
360 volts nominal
and could easily go over 450 volts under charge. (IIRC BB600 cells go to 1.5
per cell, but I've
seen the number 1.55 around too.) I've been looking for a dc-dc to work in this
range for a long
time. It would be nice not to have to disconnect it during charge. It would
also be nice if it
would float the battery when not driving, but jump to 13.8 with the key switch.
Or better yet,
sense the auxilliary battery SOC and charge as needed.
Dave Cover
--- Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Jeff,
> I'm working on a DC-DC that takes 120v - 450v and outputs 13.8v @ 1kW
> It won't be ready for a few months. I hope there's a market for a few
> when I get the design finalized.
> --
> Martin K
>
> Jeff Shanab wrote:
> > Dc-Dc converters for the higher voltage packs are ominously missing from
> > all web sites that sell ev stuff except metricmind.
> >
> > What gives? we need an Otmar or Rich for dc-dc's !
> >
> > Universal input 72-450V ? Or a few models(48V-96V) (80-200) (100-400)
> > 13.8V out
> > sleep mode
> > key input
> > waterproof
> > 50Amps
> >
> > Is this bringing back the DCP?
> >
> > Signed Desperate EV'er in Fresno,ca
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I designed a VP12124 available from GrayBar Electric for about $290. It's
300W and initially set to 24V but I just tweak the feedback resistor to 14V and
have been using these in my EV's from 72V - 336V. They have a front end PFC
circuit that boosts the voltage to the 2-switch forward converter for a wide
range of operation. No fan, steel case, polarity protected.
Have a Renewable Energy Day,
Mark
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 10:26:53 -0700 From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL
PROTECTED]> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: No dc-dc converters Plain Text Attachment [ Scan and Save to
Computer | Save to Yahoo! Briefcase ]
Dc-Dc converters for the higher voltage packs are ominously missing from all
web sites that sell ev stuff except metricmind. What gives? we need an
Otmar or Rich for dc-dc's ! Universal input 72-450V ? Or a few
models(48V-96V) (80-200) (100-400) 13.8V out sleep mode
key input waterproof 50Amps Is this bringing back the DCP?
Signed Desperate EV'er in Fresno,ca
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Patience!....
It's coming.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:26 PM
Subject: No dc-dc converters
Dc-Dc converters for the higher voltage packs are ominously missing from
all web sites that sell ev stuff except metricmind.
What gives? we need an Otmar or Rich for dc-dc's !
Universal input 72-450V ? Or a few models(48V-96V) (80-200) (100-400)
13.8V out
sleep mode
key input
waterproof
50Amps
Is this bringing back the DCP?
Signed Desperate EV'er in Fresno,ca
________________________________________________________________________
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--- Begin Message ---
Thanks!
-Don M
--- Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Take the roof off and open both doors. If you can
> close the doors again....
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'd have thought it's pretty heavy, but perhaps that
is not correct. Check out the GVWR, and subtract the
cargo capacity to find out the weight of the car as an
ICE. Should be in glove compartment or drivers' side
door panel.
Next, has anyone done one before. If they have, you
will know where your batteries can go, and save lots
of hours in brainwork.
Hope that helps,
--- Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Has anyone done or considered an Eclipse conversion.
>
> I found a pretty good deal on a donor with no motor.
> The price is right at $1k
> http://anchorage.craigslist.org/car/193403522.html
>
> I'm wondering how an Eclipse would be to convert?
>
> Mike,
> Anchorage, Ak.
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
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--- Begin Message ---
obviously I meant 50mpg, if it only went 50mph, that'd be pathetic for a
vette.
Martin K wrote:
I didn't say that...
Cor van de Water wrote:
Martin,
Then I could claim 50mph or better..
Did you mean 50 mpG?
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
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--- Begin Message ---
Chet,
These are in Northwest Ohio, 43403. 6 volt golf car size, Eadle Picher.
About 200 Ahr. 54 lb. wet. Probably about $75 each. Interested---reply.
Thanks,
jeff
Chet Fields <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Depends on how much and how much to ship. And specs if there are any, weight,
Ah, Peukert, etc.
--- Jeff Major wrote:
> I know a person who has for sale Eagle Picher Nickel Iron batteries. Total
> about 50. Some 30 are never used in orginal boxes. Anyone interested?
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
Dear jwolfe,
In Northwest Ohio, 43403. Probably $75 each. Sooner the better. Have
others on the hook. Reply if interested.
Jeff
"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Jeff,
Interested, yes!
How much?
Where?
When?
Jim
'93 Dodge TEVan
'88 Fiero ESE
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mail2web - Check your email from the web at
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Hey Jude, all
Father Time and Roy will be at the RPM trade show at the end of the month.
This might be a good option as they can haul it the rest of the way back if it
can get there.
Just a thought.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Jim Husted has graciously offered to rebuild my motor, at least
partway. With his reputation -- not to mention the price -- I can't
possibly refuse.
Of course, I'm a penny pincher. So if I can avoid paying $150 each way
for shipping from Florida to Oregon, I'll be a happy camper.
Consider this a call for help. My brother drives a delivery truck and
makes regular trips from Florida to "Rooms2Go" stores in North Carolina,
Tennessee, and Texas. He's willing to take the motor along on one of
his trips. I'm trying to get a chain of people who are each willing to
take the motor part of the way towards Oregon -- or at least, cheaper
shipping.
Jim was excited over the story we could all tell! If we can actually
put this together, I'll make a T-shirt available through Cafe Press (or
somewhere) and even throw in a couple of bucks on the purchase for the
participants. We just can't let the price get greater than DHL shipping
from Florida.
If you're interested, leave a comment on my website:
http://judebert.com/EV/First_Assessment.html and include where you are
and how far you're willing to take go to pick it up and drop it off.
Thanks!
Jude "Spark Lad" Anthony
---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've put two contactors in my EV, on the positive and negative lines,
respectively, with a precharge bulb across the positive contactor. The
startup sequence is as follows:
1) Negative contactor closes
2) This causes a relay to close which turns on the bulb
3) Bulb relay stays on while driving and positive contactor opens/closes
That's fine for startup, but in the reverse sequence, when I'm turning the
car off, the I realized that the negative contactor will open before the
precharge relay opens. Will this causes any damage (arcing, etc.) to the
negative contactor?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
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--- Begin Message ---
On 14 Aug 2006 at 19:09, James Massey wrote:
> All-up weight doesn't matter
Weight DOES matter - it takes more energy to accelerate more mass. With
regen you recover part of it, but not all; if you don't have regen, 100% of
the potential energy is dissipated as heat in the brakes.
Also, greater weight means greater rolling resistance in the tires, no?
Every gram makes a difference as they add up. You want lowest possible body
shell weight, and over 50% mass of batteries if using lead. With other
chemistries you can have less mass.
Aero matters a great deal at highway speeds.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach me.
To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ - the former contact address
([EMAIL PROTECTED]) will soon disappear.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At least he pronounced it right :)
I'm wondering what EV folks will do when the plug in hybrid crowd wants
to start using EV outlets? This could easily happen with only a few
charging spots we have have now. It would make sense to me that an EV
would get priority as they cannot just start up a gas engine and drive
away like a hybrid.
Mike
--- Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> How'd I miss this one. Bush is pushing Plug-Ins?
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXz6hnQr2gk
>
>
Here's to the crazy ones.
The misfits.
The rebels.
The troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.
The ones who see things differently
The ones that change the world!!
www.RotorDesign.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
We should seriously archive all of the footage and articles possible of
people saying that Hydrogen is the wave of the future.
I like hydrogen. It makes a nice brazing environment.
Mike
--- Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Looks like this got lost in the e-mail vortex. Re-transmit
>
> *************************
>
> Just added the report the local ABC news team did on my Electrabishi
> truck last week.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyV9qQleBDI
>
> Looks like there is a growing number of news reports contradicting
> the Ford Eviro lady's claim that there is no market for E- cars
> and that hydorgen is the wave of the futre. How many hydrogen cars
> did you pass on the way to work today? How many hydrogen
> re-fueling stations did you see today?
>
> Just got finished with the Alaska Renewable Energy Fair today. (full
> report to follow in separate thread). After EVeryone got
> done looking at the Hybrids and flex- fuels and they came and checked
> out the electric and heard some cold hard facts, they asked
> "Why can't I buy one of these?" Now they're hooked, referred them to
> WKtEC starting next week. :-)
>
> Mike,
> Anchorage, Ak.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Behalf Of Lock Hughes
> > Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 12:34 PM
> > To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> > Subject: YouTube, Inc. and EV promo
> >
> >
> > Caught a comment recently on the evdl... someone reporting climbing
> hit
> > counts to their EV web site. Perhaps a credit to WKtEC and gas
> prices
> > in NA.
> >......
> >
>
>
Here's to the crazy ones.
The misfits.
The rebels.
The troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.
The ones who see things differently
The ones that change the world!!
www.RotorDesign.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Jude an AKLL:
I am gunna motor, well, partly, by Prius, to PDX via Chicago from CT as I
DO EVery year to go to Woodburn(PIR) this year.Gotta get started in a weak
or so. I am carting one motor to Warfield. Can pick up and deliver to OR or
points inbetween. Jim Husted will be at the races and motor pickup point.
For rebuilds Warfield does them WHILE I'm at PDX, and I pickup on the way
Eastward. Worked good last year. So dig out those blown out motors and get
them to me or a convenient pickup point, Pennslowmania isn't too far out,
FLA, well, a bit.Buy me a tank of gas for the Prius, and I make the best of
it!
I'm a tad out of your way, Jude, I'm afraid. If the motor was DONE at OR I
could bring it baxck to CT A tad closer to FLA.
Anyhow, for what it is/was worth.?
Seeya
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jude Anthony" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EVDL" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 4:33 AM
Subject: Electric Pony Express for my motor
> Jim Husted has graciously offered to rebuild my motor, at least
> partway. With his reputation -- not to mention the price -- I can't
> possibly refuse.
>
> Of course, I'm a penny pincher. So if I can avoid paying $150 each way
> for shipping from Florida to Oregon, I'll be a happy camper.
>
> Consider this a call for help. My brother drives a delivery truck and
> makes regular trips from Florida to "Rooms2Go" stores in North Carolina,
> Tennessee, and Texas. He's willing to take the motor along on one of
> his trips. I'm trying to get a chain of people who are each willing to
> take the motor part of the way towards Oregon -- or at least, cheaper
> shipping.
>
> Jim was excited over the story we could all tell! If we can actually
> put this together, I'll make a T-shirt available through Cafe Press (or
> somewhere) and even throw in a couple of bucks on the purchase for the
> participants. We just can't let the price get greater than DHL shipping
> from Florida.
>
> If you're interested, leave a comment on my website:
> http://judebert.com/EV/First_Assessment.html and include where you are
> and how far you're willing to take go to pick it up and drop it off.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jude "Spark Lad" Anthony
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Not an issue. Plug-in hybrids will be 110 volt.
Public EV charging is 208/240.
On Aug 14, 2006, at 8:48 AM, Mike Phillips wrote:
At least he pronounced it right :)
I'm wondering what EV folks will do when the plug in hybrid crowd
wants
to start using EV outlets? This could easily happen with only a few
charging spots we have have now. It would make sense to me that an EV
would get priority as they cannot just start up a gas engine and drive
away like a hybrid.
Mike
--- Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
How'd I miss this one. Bush is pushing Plug-Ins?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXz6hnQr2gk
Here's to the crazy ones.
The misfits.
The rebels.
The troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.
The ones who see things differently
The ones that change the world!!
www.RotorDesign.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hmm. I was quoted approx. £95 per 40ah Kokam cell. Works out about 12 kw/hr
for £8000 not including bms.. so the zebra is certainly competitive there.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Cor van de Water
Sent: 14 August 2006 06:13
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: RE: Zebra batteries
Competitive to what?
I'd love to pack the energy of LiIon in a lightweight
car, but with my current $2200 for a 34kWh pack this
is less than 10% of the cost. I know - lead is not
a competition to LiIon in many ways, but if I would
wait until I can afford LiIon, I would still not be
driving an EV every day.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Death to All Spammers
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2006 9:40 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Zebra batteries
> Four those of you who asked, the quote from the UK supplier for a
20kWh Zebra battery is about £8000 including BMS.
>
> Even in the UK where gas is double the price you pay in the US you
would have to do quite a bit of mileage on this battery before it
starts to pay its way.
>
> Ron
>
That's $750/kWh. That seems competitive - anyone have a quote with BMS
from a lithium supplier?
--- End Message ---
