EV Digest 5780

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: Driving habbits
        by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Re: What I Learned This Weekend
        by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) RE: What I Learned This Weekend
        by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: Driving habbits
        by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) RE: What I Learned This Weekend
        by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Re: article: Tesla Roadster Sells Out First 100 Cars
        by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re: article: Tesla Roadster Sells Out First 100 Cars
        by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) RE: Charles Whalen, WKTEC, and filet mignon
        by "Joe Vitek" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Re: Low Voltage DC EVs (was: RE: Wilderness Electric Vehicle warning)
        by "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) Re: battery trailers
        by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Re: Low Voltage DC EVs (was: RE: Wilderness Electric Vehicle warning)
        by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) Re: article: Tesla Roadster Sells Out First 100 Cars
        by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Re: Well that didn't work
        by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Re: Generator Trailer
        by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: article: Tesla Roadster Sells Out First 100 Cars
        by Tony Belding <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: Well that didn't work
        by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: I don't need a dc-dc converter
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) RE: converting a Holden Combo / Barina
        by "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Re: Article in Electronic Design about Tesla
        by "Kaido Kert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) Re: Making it more efficient
        by "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) FW: Zebras for sale, please post
        by "Neil Garcia-Sinclair" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Zebras for sale
        by "Neil Garcia-Sinclair" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) Re: Well that didn't work
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 24) Re: I need a dc-dc converter
        by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 25) Re: Driving habbits
        by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 26) RE: Zebras for sale
        by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 27) Driving habbits
        by Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Hey all
   
  I forgot to mention that here in Oregon they don't believe in two lanes or 
passing lanes for that matter unless you're in a bigger city so passing people 
is almost not doable wthout sever risk.  This forces me to stay stuck behind 
them for miles.  My biggest pet pieve is the guy who does 75 to 80 MPH anytime 
there is a passing lane only to slow back down to 45 after it's a single lane 
again.  I still don't know if they are oblivious to this trait or are just 
really big control freaks?  I almost never do over 70 unless I'm passing this 
type of driver 8^ )
   
  It also seems that no one ever pulls off anymore to let others pass as they 
site see during the beautiful drive over the mountains.  I, unlike them am 
working and have made the trip over hundreds of times so a little of the magic 
is lost and I'm just trying to get back home in time for dinner.
   
  Like I stated I hate driving and only do it when I have to.  I hated it far 
more in southern California where I grew up far more than here, I just wish 
this state knew how to pave double lane roads!
  Cya
  Jim Husted


                
---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com.  Check it out. 

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At 08:02 AM 8/21/2006, Bill Dennis wrote:
Can anyone out there recommend a 1-cell isolated lithium charger that can
charge at 6A or better to help me speed up the process?

I use some 5V linear power supplies turned down to 4.25v (or 4.30v) to do that. They put out up to 30A. I found that Linear supplies were easier to adjust, and less likely to flake out when adjusted for low output voltage.
H&R has some: http://www.herbach.com/
HSC http://www.halted.com/

--
John G. Lussmyer      mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....         
http://www.CasaDelGato.com

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--- Begin Message ---
Bill, I can't offer any help on the charge, but I have a question for you:

I presume the TS batteries are for your geo conversion.  How many cells and
what kind of regulators are you using?

thanks
Don

 


Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
 
see the New Beetle EV project   www.cameronsoftware.com/ev

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bill Dennis
Sent: August 21, 2006 8:03 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: What I Learned This Weekend

I got the PFC-30 installed Friday night (woo-hoo!) and did the first charge
on my ThunderSky cells this weekend.  This was just a balancing charge to
get all the cells to an even 4.25V.  Most of the 35 cells already clocked in
at around 4.05V, but I had 2 cells that started out at 3.83V.  What I
learned was that it takes a long, long--can we say LONG!--time to get from
3.83V to 4.25V when you're traveling there at 2A.

I charged the pack at 6A until the first regulator turned on, indicating
that that cell was at 4.25V.  I then turned the current down to 5A, and
waited for the regulator to come on again, repeat, repeat, repeat, until I
got down to 2A with the regulator on.  Then I let the current stay at 2A and
watched over the course of two days as one after another, the regulators on
various cells turned on, holding their voltages to 4.25V.

Unfortunately, after 20 hours of charging, the lowest two cells had come up
to only 3.98V.  At this rate, it's going to take me another week of evening
and weekend charges to get those two low cells to catch up.

Can anyone out there recommend a 1-cell isolated lithium charger that can
charge at 6A or better to help me speed up the process?

Thanks.

Bill Dennis 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Let's be careful, gang, this thread is veering off topic.  (And that's 
mostly my fault for nudging it in that direction - I apologize.)


David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator

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--- End Message ---
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Don, here's the plan, so we'll see if it works.

I have 35 of the 200Ah cells.  I also have 46 of the 90Ah cells.  Total:
40Kwh.  I've spoken to Rich Rudman, and he's told me how I can use the
PFC-30 to have the 90Ah cells supply 25A to the 200Ah cells during driving.
Besides extending range, I'm hoping this will extend the life of both sets
of cells, as the 90Ah cells will be having only around .3C drawn from them,
which will also help reduce the stress on the 200Ah cells.  We'll see if I
can make it work.

As for regulators, I bought some of Victor's clampers.  Once the car is
running, I'm also going to try Lee Hart's idea of putting a series of relays
on the cells that will allow me to read the voltage on any particular cell
by turning on one relay (see Lee's post on July 17, 2006).  Then I'll read
that info into a microprocessor and compare it to the previous cell's
voltage to determine this cell's voltage.

Bill Dennis  

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Don Cameron
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 9:09 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: What I Learned This Weekend

Bill, I can't offer any help on the charge, but I have a question for you:

I presume the TS batteries are for your geo conversion.  How many cells and
what kind of regulators are you using?

thanks
Don

 


Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
 
see the New Beetle EV project   www.cameronsoftware.com/ev

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bill Dennis
Sent: August 21, 2006 8:03 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: What I Learned This Weekend

I got the PFC-30 installed Friday night (woo-hoo!) and did the first charge
on my ThunderSky cells this weekend.  This was just a balancing charge to
get all the cells to an even 4.25V.  Most of the 35 cells already clocked in
at around 4.05V, but I had 2 cells that started out at 3.83V.  What I
learned was that it takes a long, long--can we say LONG!--time to get from
3.83V to 4.25V when you're traveling there at 2A.

I charged the pack at 6A until the first regulator turned on, indicating
that that cell was at 4.25V.  I then turned the current down to 5A, and
waited for the regulator to come on again, repeat, repeat, repeat, until I
got down to 2A with the regulator on.  Then I let the current stay at 2A and
watched over the course of two days as one after another, the regulators on
various cells turned on, holding their voltages to 4.25V.

Unfortunately, after 20 hours of charging, the lowest two cells had come up
to only 3.98V.  At this rate, it's going to take me another week of evening
and weekend charges to get those two low cells to catch up.

Can anyone out there recommend a 1-cell isolated lithium charger that can
charge at 6A or better to help me speed up the process?

Thanks.

Bill Dennis 

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Tom Shay wrote:
I'm impressed!  100 people have paid $100,000 deposits for a Tesla.
I'd never pay a deposit like that.

Normal sane people wouldn't. Those who paid 100k are not
falling into a category of normal (I should say common) -
100k is a pocket change for them they can afford to loose
if a toy doesn't work or wasn't delivered. No big deal
*to them*.

Victor

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--- Begin Message ---
Tom Shay wrote:
I'm impressed!  100 people have paid $100,000 deposits for a Tesla.
I'd never pay a deposit like that.

Normal sane people wouldn't. Those who paid 100k are not
falling into a category of normal (I should say common) -
100k is a pocket change for them they can afford to loose
if a toy doesn't work or wasn't delivered. No big deal
*to them*.

Victor

Gosh, sure makes me glad we live in a country with a lot of abnormal and insane people. :-)

As you say, I'm sure that *for them* it was a reasonable choice. Of course as someone said before, $100K isn't that much anymore.
--
-Otmar-

http://www.CafeElectric.com/
The Zilla factory has moved to Corvallis Oregon.
Now accepting resumes. Please see:
http://www.cafeelectric.com/jobs.html

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John
> Wayland
> Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 12:56 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Charles Whalen, WKTEC, and filet mignon
>
> Joe, what a great post! You left out important details...rare, medium,
> or medium well?

I cooked mine medium and Charles' was medium/well (he wanted well, but I short 
cooked it).
Sorry Charlie! ;) He said it was all good, though. Man, that meat was 
gooooddd...

> You know, you and Charles should hop on a plane and come
> out to the Wild West for the EV drags next weekend!

I wish I could do that. I was in Baltimore visiting my sick grandfather this 
past weekend.
I don't know how much longer he is gonna be around. I will be there again next 
weekend.

> Again, that was a fun post to read this morning. Thanks for allowing us
> in on your escapades with Charles.

No problem!

Man, I hope someday soon, I will be able to make a trip out there and see some 
of this
really cool drag racing action in person. I love reading the posts about y'all's
escapades!

--
joe

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The other day I drove 45 mph on a posted 55 mph highway (not freeway)

Most everyone passed and I pulled over some when it was safe to pass.

Then I realized a few cars did not pass but were willing to just 
follow. Not in a hurry ....

How many folks drive 25 in a 25 mph zone ??  Not many

Excessive speed is not conserving energy .  As if that was an issue..

People seem to be more frantic lately as times get crazier .  Might 
as well get used to it. It is not going to get smoother soon ..

Try slowing/powering down


--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Ev Performance (Robert 
Chew)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Yep well said Dave!
> 
> I have noticed with my EV @ 72 volts on weak batteries. i am 
actually
> driving the speed limit and i have always someone close to my 
arse. If i do
> that in my regular gasoline car when i had it before, i would have 
got
> horned!
> 
> However, with the novelty of my EV some people actually take the 
time to
> have a closer look before they speed off usually 20km/hr over the 
speed
> limit. Sometimes i feel that people are always overtaking me and 
that my EV
> is slow, but in fact, i am going the speed limit!
> 
> I reackon, if you want to go fast, do it, enjoy it like what david 
said, but
> don't endanger everyone's life around you.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> On 21/08/06, David Roden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > On 20 Aug 2006 at 15:19, Jeff Shanab wrote:
> >
> > > While I agree a lot of it is cultural, educating everyone to 
my right to
> > > my slower viewpoint every time I pull away from a stoplight is 
hazardous
> > > in Fresno.
> >
> > With all due respect, I hear this over and over.  Everybody 
seems to know
> > (or live in) some city where traffic is fiendishly fast.  In 
such a place
> > you may as well replace your controller with a contactor, or 
expect to be
> > "run over." All the other drivers floor their accelerators when 
the light
> > turns green, and woe to you if you hold them up!
> >
> > To put it as gently as possible, I find this less than 
persuasive.  I have
> > yet to drive in an area where I felt that I had to drive "pedal 
to the
> > metal."  I drive the way I drive no matter where I am, and that 
means I
> > accelerate smoothly, drive the speed limit, and brake gently to 
a stop
> > when
> > I have to (I'd rather coast up to a light that turns green just 
as I get
> > there).
> >
> > Yes, I'm sometimes tailgated, but the same drivers will tailgate 
people
> > who
> > drive fast, too.  And I don't feel very threatened by tailgaters
> > anyway.  If
> > they hit my car, they'll be the ones cited.
> >
> > You may say that everyone around you is driving as fast as you 
are - but I
> > guarantee that you're still passing people.  If you slow down 
you'll find
> > that suddenly you're surrounded by a contingent of people doing 
the speed
> > limit.  Surprise!  Even in busy cities, I can almost always find 
a lane
> > with
> > a cadre of drivers doing the speed I want to drive.
> >
> > To each his own.  I mean no criticism, but I like saving energy, 
whether
> > it's electricity or gasoline.  Beyond the principle of it, that 
keeps
> > money
> > in my pocket, not just from using less energy but also from 
being able to
> > use less expensive, simpler vehicles and drive systems.
> >
> > But others have different priorities.  There's no shame in 
enjoying speed
> > if
> > you do it safely.  Just do it and have fun.  You don't need an 
excuse like
> > "I'll get run over if I don't."  ;-)
> >
> >
> > David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> > EV List Assistant Administrator
> >
> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> > Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on 
vacation,
> > or switch to digest mode?  See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> > Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not reach 
me.
> > To send a private message, please obtain my email address from
> > the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ - the former contact 
address
> > ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) will soon disappear.
> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> >
> >
>




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It's doable but stressful for hitches if a car or trailer
(but not both simultaneously) tilt because of a road obstacles.

But I agree, it's easy to engineer acceptable linkage solution.

Victor


Lee Hart wrote:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

The main disadvantage I see [to a single wheel trailer] is that
the swivelwheel tends to dictate a high load floor, unless tongue
weight is increased by pushing the swivel rearwards, or the swivel
is recessed in a box that takes up a good bit of the cargo space.


Why aren't there any 2-wheel trailers with 2 hitches, where both wheels
caster or steer to turn with the car?

--- End Message ---
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Jeff Shanab wrote:
> I think a minimum acceleration is necessary to smoothly participate
> in traffic.

I certainly agree. However, the minimum accelleration "needed" is far
lower than most cars provide. Car accelleration is based more on
people's "wants" than on what is actually needed.

Think about the success small cars like the old VW Beetle with its 40hp
engine, or Geo Metros with their little 3-cyl engines. Consider the
family with a boat or trailer in tow. Think of all the trucks and buses
on the roads. They all have a low power-to-weight ratios, and
accellerate much slower than normal cars. Yet the highways are full of
them!

We all know people that curse anyone who drives slower than them. "How
DARE those [EMAIL PROTECTED] slowpokes get in MY way, and prevent me from drag
racing to the next traffic light, or keep me from driving 20mph over the
speed limit!"

But as a practical matter, the minimum accelleration needed is only
enough to keep up with the *slowest* vehicles on the roads. That's going
to be big trucks and buses; not sports cars.

Another factor is how fast you need to go. Even an anemic CitiCar
provided quick accelleration up to 30mph or so. With the right gearing,
torque is irrelevant; it's horsepower that matters. If your EV can
deliver its full horsepower to the wheels over a wide speed range (by
shifting, or by having a type of drive with a wide power band), then
even a low horsepower can accellerate quicker than an ICE with the same
HP.

Peter VanDerWal wrote:
> 48V @ 1000 amps is roughly 48 hp. Put another way, that is roughly
> the same HP as an old air cooled VW bug. A VW bug has pretty tepid
> performance, even when it's only pushing around 2000 lbs.

Agreed. However, that old VW Bug was 40hp *peak*. It certainly didn't
deliver that at 70 mph, or it would have gone a heck of a lot faster. IT
probably delivered more like 20hp average, over its entire speed range.

If your EV can draw 48v at 1000a from the pack, over a modestly wide
range of speed, then it is delivering 48hp *average*. That's going to
accellerate a 2000 lbs vehicle a heck of a lot faster than a VW Beetle.

Do a quick calculation. What is the 0-to-60 mph time for a 2000 lbs
vehicle with 48hp over the range of 10-60 mph (can't have 48hp below
10mph or all you get is tire smoke and wheel spin!)
-- 
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net

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Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

As you say, I'm sure that *for them* it was a reasonable choice. Of 
course as someone said before, $100K isn't that much anymore.
-- 

  That makes me kind of sick to my stomache,  If I had a 100000 I'd probably be 
building my own motor line, hehehe.  If nothing else there'd be a whole lot 
more Siamese motors running about the place 8^ )
  My two pennies worth
  Jim Husted
  Hi-Torque Electric

                
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
 Next-gen email? Have it all with the  all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

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Christopher Zach wrote:
The POS 4/40 thread taps that HD sells basically break off in the holes. Which of course renders the hole worthless. Same with their garbage quality bolts that twist off in holes.
Taps is one area that you should absolutely pay good $$$ and get the quality ones, _especially_ the small ones, as they're prone to breakage and really difficult to extract. If at all possible, I drill my holes on the drill press, then (with the pieces still clamped to the table) put the correct tap into the chuck, disconnect the spring that lifts the spindle, and rotate the spindle pulley by hand, while putting gentle pressure on the tap. Once the tap is started pretty well, I un-chuck it while it is still in the piece, remove the piece from the table, and then use a hand wrench to carefully finish the tap.

You can also get a tap holding jig that amounts to doing the same thing, but without a drill press.

While trying to center the mounting plate I made the mistake of drilling out the holes that were used for the old sensor on the motor. I now can't use them with a 4/40 bolt anymore. Anyone have any ideas on how to make them work again without going to 6/32 size?
There are some kinds of epoxy that are made to be used with metal (i.e. JB Stik comes to mind). You can fill the hole, sand it level smooth, re-drill and re-tap directly into the epoxy. I've never actually used one of these products, but some people swear by them.


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What are your goals here?

It's been pretty well discussed, and a conventional genny is expected to be worse mpg than the original car engine. It has no emissions systems at all and a relative crude muffler making it a loud and phenomenally environmentally unsound option. I suspect if anyone looks at the situation hard enough, a generator operating while the vehicle is in motion could be interpreted as a blatant violation of the automotive emissions laws.

Actually there are supposed to be some placed which use infrared cameras that "see" vehicle emissions and at least send warning letters to owners. I don't know if they issue tickets or otherwise take more serious measures anywhere. But it may be noticed.

The situation is pretty bad. It would only make sense if you only needed to use it a really, really small portion of the time.

Danny

brian baumel wrote:

Greeting fellow EVers,
I've been playing with the idea of a generator trailer
for a little while now. I have the trailer, yes that
was the easy part. I am having great troubles finding
an affordable (<$1000) diesel/Bio diesel generator or
ever just the engine and I can attach the gen head
later. I didn't go through all this trouble just to
burn gas :p
I'm guessing I need 10-15KW. any suggestions? how are
the rest of you doing this?
thank you for your input!

Brian
81'Bradley GTII



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com


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On Aug 16, 2006, at 9:28 AM, David C. Navas wrote:

I would worry about other things -- how often do I need to replace
those really expensive tires, for example.

That depends on how many smoking peel-outs you pull on them. Something I personally tend to avoid -- but I can understand the temptation. :) At any rate, I'm guessing it should be easier on the drive train than lighting up the tires on a gasoline-powered car.

When it comes to maintenance costs. . . If you aren't familiar with exotic sports cars you might be astonished at what they cost to maintain. My Esprit's service bills have slapped me in the face a few times, and I've heard Ferraris are much worse than Lotus. Minimal maintenance is one thing (among many) that appeals to me about the Tesla Roadster. I laugh at replacing tires. . . If that's the worst thing I have to worry about, I'll be more than happy.


Or, where do I go to repair that all-carbon-fiber body?

Lotus Elise owners are already quite familiar with this issue. The Elise has no bumpers, so even the lightest tap from another car can split the fiberglass clamshell and inflict a $5,000 repair bill. The good news about the Tesla Roadster is that it does, in fact, have bumpers. Body repairs won't be cheap, but they shouldn't be needed as often.


Or, how stiff is that suspension, really?

If it's anything like my Esprit, I'd say you can live with it. It's firm, and it could get tiresome for long highway trips, but the Roadster isn't made for that anyhow. The Elise has a "sport package" option with stiffer suspension. A lot of people get the sport package, but I personally wouldn't want it unless I planned to autocross or something like that.


Or, what happens when I scrape the entire bottom off the car going over my first speed bump?

There are a few street intersections and several parking lots in my town where my Esprit will scrape its nose if I'm not careful with it. There's a piece of flexible plastic under the nose that makes a hair-raising scraping sound; it can take a certain amount of abuse, but the scraping sound really lets me know when I'm flirting with trouble. The key is to either avoid bumps and ditches, or else try to hit them diagonally. If I can get the nose across a bump or a ditch, then the rest of the car will be okay.


On the otherhand, it's likely to be a hell of a collector's item.

Yep. $100K is a lot to shell out for a car, but it's not money thrown down the drain. I predict those cars will retain their value very well indeed.

Tony Belding, Hamilton Texas

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[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
As far as getting the bolt hole usable @ 4/40 I would suggest a thread repair product called a "helicoil". These are available in a kit that has the correct oversize drill, special tap and thread inserts that looks like a spring, you basically just drill the hole oversize, tap it with the special helicoil tap then install the thread insert with the provided tool. Should be available from most better nut and bolt or machine tool suppliers. Good luck, David

One of the things I really appreciate about this list is the ability of people to point out things I simply have not thought about. Helicoils would be perfect; we used those in 914 exhaust studs all the time.

Does anyone have a favorite mail-order vendor for them?

Chris

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I am using an IOTA in my Aspire.  It has two settings 13.8 & 14.4.  It puts
as much as 55 amps.  I leave it on the low float setting with a 17ah BB
battery and I haven't noticed any problems day or night, rain or shine.
Having a powerful dc/dc makes it so you don't need much of a battery.  If
you go flooded/AGM no dc/dc  you have a battery as big as your traction
battery and that is a waste of space and weight.  The IOTA is good up to
144vdc.  The 220v version should run with the HV Zillas.  Lawrence
Rhodes.....

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Hey Peter,

Where in Aus are you?

I know quite a few people in Sydney that have converted Charades and
other similar small cars who could help.
(Sydney AEVA - http://sydneyaeva.googlepages.com/ )

Mark

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, 18 August 2006 8:16 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: converting a Holden Combo / Barina
> 
> 
> Has anybody in Australia done a EV conversion on a Holden Combo or
> Barina?
>  
> If so, I would like to get in contact to get a few pointers 
> if possible
>  
> Peter Ring 
> 
> 

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Another article, this time a short test drive report:
http://www.mercurynews.com/mld/mercurynews/15299648.htm
"The driving experience -- other than the silence and the clean air --
closely mirrors driving a regular sports car."
"Handling is precise, which is where Tesla's connection with Lotus comes in"

There is also a new
http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/
discussion board for fans

-kert

On 8/21/06, Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Tesla is getting some more press....
http://www.electronicdesign.com/Articles/ArticleID/13201/13201.html



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Now add a belly pan and wheel skirts to that puppy...

Coroplast belly pan install for Honda Del Sol:
http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=433

Coroplast wheel skirts on a '92 Civic - these are kinda cheesy
http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1428&highlight=wheel+skirt

Plastic "krazy carpet" wheel skirts on a Pontiac Firefly
http://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=850

The CleanMPG and GasSavers forums are very interesting. Think fuel-efficient gearheads. Their main goal is to achieve the highest MPG they can from a vehicle. Improvements of 40% from stock are not uncommon. The same tricks and techniques are applicable to EVs (except for engine & engine computer mods!).

These guys can get 70+MPG from a Del Sol or Firefly. Imagine what those mods could do for the range of your EV.

Adrian

.

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For Sale

Three (3) all-aluminum electric car chasses complete with motors, motor
controllers, wiring harnesses, tires, rims, steering, and a central battery
channel.

These chasses were produced by Zebra Motors.  One of them includes a hood
and may be the vehicle that appeared on the television show Nash Bridges,
and driven by the actress Yasmine Bleeth.  Included is a battery maintenance
tool developed by Zebra.

All three vehicles have been driven under computer operation and radio
control as part of an FTA funded electric car computerization development
project.  They are now in their original state.  They need new batteries and
already have battery cables.

The current owner is CyberTran International Inc. of Alameda, CA.  CyberTran
wishes to sell all three chasses and associated parts to one buyer, AS IS.

Asking price:  $10,000 obo.  For more information call (510) 864-3221, or
email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] 









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i own a machine shop and will see if i have the tool it takes,  you need a tap 
and a insert tool and a insert to do it.  if i dont have one, i will price it 
out for you.

Gary

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
> > As far as getting the bolt hole usable @ 4/40 I would suggest a thread 
> > repair 
> > product called a "helicoil". These are available in a kit that has the 
> > correct 
> > oversize drill, special tap and thread inserts that looks like a spring, 
> > you 
> > basically just drill the hole oversize, tap it with the special helicoil 
> > tap 
> > then install the thread insert with the provided tool. Should be available 
> > from most better nut and bolt or machine tool suppliers. Good luck, David 
> 
> One of the things I really appreciate about this list is the ability of 
> people to point out things I simply have not thought about. Helicoils 
> would be perfect; we used those in 914 exhaust studs all the time. 
> 
> Does anyone have a favorite mail-order vendor for them? 
> 
> Chris 
> 

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--- Begin Message --- The MCP350 is rated at 1.5 GPM, the MCP650 is rated at 5.25 GPM. Both of these values are "nominal."

The Zilla manual recommends 2 GPM, so the 350 might not be a good match.

Jeff Shanab wrote:
Thanks victor, I saw the 600W unit and while it is a much better fit on
the 14V end, it won't work with my pack voltage. :-(  I think I had
mentioned that requierment much earlier in this thread.

I DO understand the difference between "built for EV Automotive use" and
"makeing something work"
 I see the Value Brusa has in that area but just can't afford it or sell
it. I want to develop a list of worthy products before I open an EV shop
or store here in Fresno.

I am going with about 750W unit ("1000W max continuous") for about $240.
Though not waterproof or actually intended for road use, we will see how
long it lasts.

I like trying some of these lower cost options to see which ones
actually have merit. I have been using a MCP350 water pump to cool the
zilla. This is a continous duty magnetically driven water pump used for
colling PC's. Though known as the swiftech mcp350, It originally was
built by delphi(still has delphi logo and packaging when you get it) to
cool electronics in cars. But it appears to be borderline, Without the
dc-dc when  the 12V drops, it can't keep the zilla cool. Its bigger
brother the 650 arrives monday.


I tried an RV sink water pump, the smallest one,  but the continous duty
for the EV resulted in a short , noisy life. These CPU water pumps are
quiet and because they have no shaft seals, they use very little power
for their output. I will let the list know how they perform. They
currently run $39.



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At 09:03 AM 21/08/06 -0700, Jim Husted wrote:
<snip> My biggest pet pieve is the guy who does 75 to 80 MPH anytime there is a passing lane only to slow back down to 45 after it's a single lane again. <snip>

They do that on this side of the planet, too...

Just to make all the Americans feel less hard done by, ICE fuel is around $1.40Aus/litre, 1.4 x 0.7 = US$0.98/litre, x 4.2 = $4.12US/Gal

I don't know how this compares, but EV fuel is 0.186/kWh, around US$0.13 on step 1 (first 500kWh) and then $0.138/kWh, around US$0.097/kWh, in this state (Tasmania) hydro or wind, plus a bit of gas and via the worlds longest undersea cable a bit of dirty brown coal fired mainland power.

Regards

[Technik] James
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If anyone is interested in going three-sies with me on this, please contact
me offline.

Bill Dennis
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Neil Garcia-Sinclair
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 2:06 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Zebras for sale




For Sale

Three (3) all-aluminum electric car chasses complete with motors, motor
controllers, wiring harnesses, tires, rims, steering, and a central battery
channel.

These chasses were produced by Zebra Motors.  One of them includes a hood
and may be the vehicle that appeared on the television show Nash Bridges,
and driven by the actress Yasmine Bleeth.  Included is a battery maintenance
tool developed by Zebra.

All three vehicles have been driven under computer operation and radio
control as part of an FTA funded electric car computerization development
project.  They are now in their original state.  They need new batteries and
already have battery cables.

The current owner is CyberTran International Inc. of Alameda, CA.  CyberTran
wishes to sell all three chasses and associated parts to one buyer, AS IS.

Asking price:  $10,000 obo.  For more information call (510) 864-3221, or
email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] 










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>> Let the hate mail begin, hehe.

Jim, you ignorant slut...just kidding:^O

Your post illustrates the fact that most of our traffic problems are caused
by most people operating their car under a false set of assumptions, not the
least of which is that accelerating into red lights somehow magically rends
the time/space continuum.

Without boring you with details regarding traffic motility, I can tell you
that jackrabbit starts will not get you in front of that car in front of you
any faster. And if you do pass on the right and cut him off, guess what?
There's another car...in front of you! Why, the nerve of that guy!

Those smart guys designing our Buck Rogers autopilot cars will tell you,
it's the fits and starts and slammin' on the brakes that slows the whole
train down, and the fact that you can get your truck up to 60mph in that few
hundred yards between lights may make you feel better, but it's not really
getting you there any faster. You are, however, wasting fuel and brake
lining.

In fact, you can slow everybody down and still decrease trip time if only
you could get everyone to stop driving like it's a race. If everyone drove
their car the same way truck drivers drive their truck, we'd ALL get across
town faster.

But Americans tend to be stupid sheep that watch too much TV, and that same
8 billion/year GM spends to convince us we need a Hummer also has us
convinced we're ALL professional drivers on a closed course.

Here in LA it's just out of control. I generally drive 5/over, but if
there's a stop every block, I don't bother even trying to go over 25- in the
residential areas the limit's usually 25 anyway. But there's always some
dumbass in an Excursion or a Hummer who just can't stand it for long, and
they'll try to pass on the right. Then they find out that even a RAV4 EV
goes 0-25 faster than their Hummer. God, that's REALLY frustrating for them.
When they finally can't stand it anymore, they'll risk life and limb (yours,
mine, theirs, what's the difference? Hummers come with a license to
kill...standard) and pass on the left, on a blind curve, who cares? After
all, it's YOUR fault they're so mad simply because you don't want to drive
like an idiot.

When I drove my old hot rod Chevy truck (345hp/10mpg) those were the idiots
I would let run into the back of me. Had a rear bumper made out of a huge
piece of angle. They were always amazed at what that angle did to the front
of their fancy-ass Land Rover or whatever. Always fun to act kind of
retarded too, i.e.,

ME: "Whudju run into my truck for, mister?"

THEM : (Sputtering) "Why did you slam on your brakes?"

ME: "Didn't you see that cat run out in fronta me? I think it was a black
one!"

Ah, those were the days. And God knows they're over now. At least, until I
get my Hybrid Hummer from UQM (and where are those prototypes from '93
anyway?)

These RAV4s don't even have bumpers. Now they're called spenders. Because if
you even touch anything with them, you're going to be spending a lot of
money.

So now I don't drive like an asshole anymore, if only because I don't want
to risk losing my EV grin.

Just one more example of electric vehicles improving society...

MarvyMarv
Culver City
> From: Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 07:14:02 -0700 (PDT)
> To: EVDL <[email protected]>
> Subject: Driving habbits
> 
> Hey all
> 
> There's been a lot of discussion about driving speeds of late, so I thought
> I'd chime in here.  First off I live in what I call the 45 MPH State where if
> it isn't icy in the winter there are far to many motorhomes and camp trailers
> being hauled, all going 45.  I'm a point "A" to point "B" driver and rarely if
> EVer drive just to drive.  My car is just another tool I use to make life
> easier and quicker.  Regardless of whether you admit it or not, time "is"
> money so to speak and I wonder if any of you slow guys consider this into your
> equations?  
> 
> As I read a lot of these type of posts I think to myself, Haven't these people
> ever heard of grid-lock?
> Just the other day there was a guy in the front at a red light with 20 cars
> behind him, he took off so slow that a guy had time to turn left in front of
> him, thats just not right!  Yep you guessed it like 4 cars made the light!
> That's out of about 20 to 30 that are waiting their turn.  Now I live in a
> town of only about 20K people and the green light to car ratio is a joke!
> 
> Oregon is also the state where drivers don't care what's behind them, and
> after they've pulled out in front of you going below the speed limit, you are
> now behind them, lmao!  As far as speeds and driving are concerned if I drive
> fast I do not impede you, but a slow driver does effect everyone behind them
> that wants to drive faster.  Before the hate mail comes first I have a perfect
> driving record and second I'm not talking about doing 100MPH either!
> 
> Having built 15,000 electric motors in 25 years I've done more than most to
> reduce gas usage and emmissions maybe more than this whole group put together
> so I've done my bit for King and Counrty!  So if you see the Hi-Torque truck
> riding your arse all I ask is you get the heck out of my way!  My question to
> you all is while you are saving those watts has anyone calculated the wasted
> energy being used by the 20 or so people left standing at the light as you egg
> peddle on through, not just in gas but in time?  There should be a happy
> medium for when traffic is thick.
> Let the hate mail begin, hehe.
> Cya
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric

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