EV Digest 5869

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: Cheap EV ammeter
        by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Re: Potter & Brumfield Relay for Ceramic Heater
        by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) RE: Advance motor Timing
        by "England Nathan-r25543" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: Very nice EV site
        by Dave Stensland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Battery Pricing
        by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Re: LED vs LCD display
        by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) RE: Battery Pricing
        by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) Re: Potter & Brumfield Relay for Ceramic Heater
        by MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Re: 1991 Suzuki VX800  Free project bike
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) fast EV
        by steve ollerton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Re: LED vs LCD display
        by "Edward Ang" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) RE: Advance motor Timing
        by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Chelsea Sexton to Appear at Maryland Screening of "Who Killed the Electric 
Car?"
        by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Magnecharger for sale in Sunnyvale, California $200
        by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: First Electric Vehicles needs our help.
        by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: fast EV
        by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: fast EV
        by MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) RE: SPAM-LOW:  First Electric Vehicles needs our help.
        by "Orlando Ferrassoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) Re: fast EV
        by Nick Austin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) Auburn Kodiak c600
        by Dave McGuire <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) Re: Dateline article
        by "Ev Performance (Robert Chew)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) RE: Cheap EV ammeter
        by "England Nathan-r25543" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) Re: fast EV
        by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 24) RE: Dateline article
        by "Tim Ireland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 25) Re: Karmann Ghia conversion - autostick
        by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 26) Re: [RAV4-EV] Altair Nanotechnology Battery Demo
        by Peter Eckhoff <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 27) Re: fast EV
        by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 28) Re: fast EV
        by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 29) RE: Dateline article
        by "Claudio Natoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 30) Re: LED vs LCD display
        by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 31) Re: LED vs LCD display
        by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 32) Re: Battery Costs/Pricing
        by Patrick Maston <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Dave Cover wrote:
I saw the 1200 amp one, but where to get a matching shunt? I probably looked at 
most of those
links and found very few shunts. Shunts-R-Us? Doesn't the shunt have to be 
matched to scale of the
meter? If I understand it correctly, the meter is just readin 0-50mv, but the 
shunt has to be
calibrated so you have 50mv voltage drop at full current. In this case at 1200 
amps. Yes/no?

A shunt is nothing but a precision power resistor. You can buy them of course; but you can also make one out of an appropriate length of wire.

A 1200amp 50mv shunt has a resistance of R = V/I = 0.05v / 1200a = 41.7 milliohms or 0.0000417 ohms. #00 copper wire has a resistance of 77.9 milliohms per foot. Therefore, you can use 41.7 / 77.9 = 0.535 feet or 6.4 inches of #00 wire as your shunt. Practically speaking, you tap the wire at two points 6.4" apart, and connect your shunt between them.

The copper wire has a temperature coefficient, so your ammeter will vary slightly with temperature. But it works well as a "quick and dirty" shunt.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Mike,

The last question I have now is location of overtemp sensor.  Do you put a snap 
switch right on the element? or do you locate it of to one side in the plenum 
to sense air temp exceeding what, around 200*F?
I thought I was pretty smart with my dual-ceramic elements (found out later I hadn't thought it through well enough). I tapped a signal from the fan speed selector. I could detect when it was anything but off. This signal was only present when the ignition was on. I coupled these protections with the temperature selection slider. When the slider was in the full-hot position, both elements were on. When it was just about on the cold/hot mark, only one element was on. In the cold region, neither could turn on.

I figured that would prevent the elements from being on when the blower wasn't on. However, one night I flipped the blower "Off" (it actually got stuck half-way between the "Off" and "1" position, which still output that the blower was supposed to be on, even though it wasn't). I was going to leave the ignition "On" for a little while because my 12V battery was a bit low. That was when I was turning the DC-DC off with the ignition off, which I later changed to always on (because the 12V system wasn't getting charged enough on my short commutes). Before I went to bed a couple hours later, I went out to shut the ignition off. As soon as I opened the door, I realized something had gone wrong - it smelled of burnt plastic. Someday, I might have to tear into the dash again and I'll see how bad it melted the stuff in there. Fortunately, the ceramic elements limit themselves pretty well. That probably saved the car from catching fire.

So if I was doing things over again, I would make sure there was a sure-fire way to make certain an element wasn't on unless it was supposed to be. Some sort of temperature sensing of the elements (direct contact with the elements, as any distance without airflow might not trigger the protection devices) with a cut-out switch seems appropriate. For extra safety, I'd also make everything redundant - i.e. completely independent of the other monitoring system.
-Ryan
--

- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Professional grade electric vehicle parts and resources
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What is 0 degrees brush timing on a series motor? I assume it has to do
with the brushes relation to the field coil. Center of brush at center
of field coil? Would this be Zero degrees of brush timing?

I assume the same rule applies to Sep-Ex motors as well.

Thank you,

Nate

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm with you, Mike.

Some of my photos have been posted within ElectricCars.com pages, too. Here's one... http://www.electriccars.com/dealers/VIEWdealer.cfm? ID=96&username=visitor

Truth be told, the Electric Auto Association has a history of lifting up articles and/or photos from my site unbeknownst to me.

Which offense is worse?

-Dave Stensland
Megawatt Motorworks, Inc.
http://www.megawattmotorworks.com


On Aug 16, 2006, at 6:54 PM, Mike Chancey wrote:

There was a thread about electriccars.com about two years ago. One of their central pages was copied verbatim from one of my websites, including the links to Amazon on my sales account. I sent them an email about and never received a reply. Two years later it is still up, you can see it at:

http://www.electriccars.com/info/build/

I am sorry you had to pay to access their copied data.

Thanks,


Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html

In medio stat virtus - Virtue is in the moderate, not the extreme position. (Horace)


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I see what people are saying about battery prices.
Ouch!
I just priced Optima YT's (Ground 34) for the Sparrow I'm getting.
$212 ea in Qty 13.
This is from the local interstate dealer.
--
John G. Lussmyer      mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....         
http://www.CasaDelGato.com

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I consider them almost the same class (resolution wise)
as 7-segment LEDs. You can't really display a battery
icon or a unit letter in the corner of such a display.

Victor

John G. Lussmyer wrote:
At 01:40 PM 9/13/2006, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
But of course 7 segments are quite limited in what can be
displayed. If non-numeric info is needed, it's quite cryptic.
Graphics LCD of course can mimic 7-segments and do much more,
but common ones are harder to read. Not so bad if they are
in a shadow deeper in the enclosure, and I lean toward this option.

What about dot-matrix LED displays?
Like http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T063/1959.pdf

--
John G. Lussmyer      mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com




--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John G. Lussmyer wrote: 

> I just priced Optima YT's (Ground 34) for the Sparrow I'm getting.
> $212 ea in Qty 13.
> This is from the local interstate dealer.

It might not help much, but you might get them to quote you on BTs (the
blue top marine version; same electrical spec as the YT).  Rumour has it
that they are at least a bit cheaper, and the extra set of threaded stud
terminals comes in handy for attaching regs or BMS equipment without
interfering with the traction wiring to the SAE posts.

Congratulations on the Sparrow purchase!

Cheers,

Roger.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My fan switch has 4 indents.  My thought is that I could get 3 more of these 
KUEP-11D15-12 and tap each fan speed power input to a coil on a KUEP-11D15-12.  
I would series  the poles on each of the DPDT relays to be able to break my 
192V and the 1.25A draw (average) from each individual element in the ceramic 
module should be within the range of the 3A contact rating.  This way voltage 
to the fan signals the heater elements to come on, 1 element with each increase 
in fan speed.  This would prevent running all four elements on the module with 
the fan on low.  Although the module will self regulate its current, its 
temperature will still be higher with lower airflow.  So while not getting as 
much heat out, the temp inside could get quite high.  I wouldn't want to 
overheat the plenum by trying to reduce the airflow to reduce the cabine 
temperature.

Is this more work than its worth? There is one step more safety by only 
switching on the hearter elements when the fan comes on.  Putting an overall 
temp cutoff switch is still a good idea though.

I did find a PRD series relay locally that has the magnetic blowouts. So now 
its down to a design decision.

Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.

Ryan Bohm wrote:
> So if I was doing things over again, I would make sure there was a 
> sure-fire way to make certain an element wasn't on unless it was 
> supposed to be.  Some sort of temperature sensing of the elements 
> (direct contact with the elements, as any distance without airflow 
> might 
> not trigger the protection devices) with a cut-out switch seems 
> appropriate.  For extra safety, I'd also make everything redundant 
> - 
> i.e. completely independent of the other monitoring system. 
> 
> -Ryan

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes.  It is.  IT is a very nice bike feel wise.  If you like the Sport
bike/a little crusier feel this would be great.  Plenty of room for
batteries & the motor..  Lawrence Rhodes.........
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eric Poulsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: 1991 Suzuki VX800 Free project bike


> This is in San Francisco, correct?
>
> Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> > DO NOT CONTACT LAWRENCE RHODES
> > Suzuki VX800.  I really liked how if felt but I'm looking for more of
the
> > Intruder/Virago/Rebel style.  If some one wanted to do a 120v system
with
> > 26ah Hawkers this bike could easily hold it and a large motor.  I don't
know
> > what the final drive is but it's shaft drive.  CONTACT JOHN 415-665-5045
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]  I was to his house and saw the bike.  It has some
> > corrosion but it is complete.  It would make a great EV.  Nice styling.
> > Funny bike.  Harley style motor and Sport Bike looks.  Final drive is
3.09
> > to 1.  Is that dooable?  Lawrence Rhodes...
> > http://www.suzukicycles.org/1990-1999/1991a.shtml URL To a picture of
the
> > Model.
> >
> >> Call 4156655045
> >>
> >> -john
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anyone seen this before?

-------- Original Message --------
Subject:        electric car
Date:   Wed, 13 Sep 2006 21:58:56 +0100
From:   Edward Brightman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:     [EMAIL PROTECTED]



Hi,
Just seen this video, will yours be quite this fast?
http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=3624337653720181416&sourceid=zeitgeist
Very impressive stuff.
ED




--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor,

I think most LCD's have issues with cold temperature.  The remedy
seems to be having a build-in heater.  For me, if it is readable
within 30 seconds even in winter, I would choose the LCD.  It looks
much better and you get a lot of flexibilities in displaying graphics.

However, the long-term reliability of low-cost color LCD's in extreme
temperatures like what you would find in a car is still in question.

On 9/13/06, Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
This has been asked before but I'm still debating
which version has better potential in the EV use.

I'm talking about EVision - the product alternative
for e-meter. Displays any 3 (out of about dozen) parameters
simultaneously, one - on 25 LEDs bar graph.

A picture of its production display module is here:
http://www.metricmind.com/misc/dscn4980.jpg
There are no buttons on the display - they are remote (and optional).

On this particular proto wrong LEDs were used (hi intensity
white and blue, very directional) instead of rectangular light
blocks, so the illumination of units is not as uniform as it meant
to be, but it's easy to fix.

Point is, LEDs are brighter than LCD (at least those I could put
my hands on).
But of course 7 segments are quite limited in what can be
displayed. If non-numeric info is needed, it's quite cryptic.
Graphics LCD of course can mimic 7-segments and do much more,
but common ones are harder to read. Not so bad if they are
in a shadow deeper in the enclosure, and I lean toward this option.

I made couple of short videos (bad quality, by point-and-shoot
small digital camera) showing small "demo" running on
both displays. LCD is about 1.5"x1.5", and it is installable
right in place (instead of) 6 blocks of 7-seg displays, takes
the same real state.

LED version demo: http://www.metricmind.com/misc/dscn4874.mov 7MB file
LCD short demo http://www.metricmind.com/misc/dscn4870.mov - 4.5MB file

Any comments which flavor would you rather choose?
Also, would you rather prefer have no enclosure and mount it
behind the dash as any other gauge, or have it stand-alone
as on the photo above?

Thanks in advance for any feed back,

--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different




--
Edward Ang
President
AIR Lab Corp

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 10:40 AM 13/09/06 -0700, Nate wrote:

What is 0 degrees brush timing on a series motor? I assume it has to do
with the brushes relation to the field coil. Center of brush at center
of field coil? Would this be Zero degrees of brush timing?

Correct. Advancing the brushes is due to the magnetic field of the field coil being pushed "back" in reaction against the armature magnetic field. When the brushes are at the center of the magnetic field they are sitting on the points of the commutator that have no voltage gradient, so don't arc (much). As you move away from magnetic neutral point the brush gets a voltage difference under it (from the rotor generating voltage) on the comm bars that it is sitting on, and so is shorting out part of the rotors' generated voltage (dropping efficiency in the same way as a shorted turn) and arcing (as it 'releases' the short).

ope this helps

Regards

[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Our newest EVDL listee and "WKTEC?" celebrity, Chelsea Sexton will be appearing at the Beltsville, Maryland screening of "WKTEC?" on Friday, September 22 at the Lowes AMC Movie Theater.

She is being hosted courtesy of the Integrity Research Institute (IRI) which is holding their Second Conference on Future Energy at the Sheraton next to the Lowes theater in Beltsville. And the Electric Vehicle Association of Washington DC which will be displaying EVs at the conference and helping with the logistical side of things.

This is obviously an exciting opportunity and gives us a second wind after the movie premiered earlier in the summer at DC area theaters. So we are pretty ecstatic that plans for this have developed rather quickly during the past couple of days. We really appreciate Chelsea being able to come out.

Speakers from The Second Conference on Future Energy include leading energy scientists from NASA, universities and the private sector. They are very interested in EV technology and invited EVA/DC to take part in the conference and show our EVs and invited Chelsea to come out and lecture about the movie.

For further details about the screening and the conference visit our website at http://www.evadc.org.

Chip Gribben
EVA/DC webmaster
http://www.evadc.org


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In my home town I noticed a Magnecharger for sale for $200
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/206774222.html

Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water    IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:   +1 408 542 5225     VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax:   +1 408 731 3675     eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks   eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further  http://www.proxim.com

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I thought this has been kicked around before RE:
-DOT crash tests
-EPA emissions (EVs in a different ball game,
obviously)
-headlights/taillight: coloration, size, etc. 

The point is that if Toyota could bring a Japanese
Domestic Model (JDM) in for 5 families to be focus
group participants in, then it seems there must be
some provision for this type of stuff, despite the
controls listed above.
peace, 

--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> http://www.fevehicle.com/services.html
> 
> Here's the story.  Morgan(speaks with broken Chinese
> accent) wants to do
> business in the USA importing the vehicles on the
> above site.  He also said
> he has no idea how to do the documentation to even
> bring in samples for test
> drives.  I know these vehicles would be interesting
> to the Arcaners.  Very
> interesting to many of the EV groups.  I think there
> are brain resources on
> many of these lists that can help Morgan help us. 
> He has the mainland
> contacts.  I know some of the Arcaners have done
> miracles getting cars
> across borders.  I also think making the cars a sort
> of kit would be a first
> step in getting them into this country.  I know
> California is very lenient
> regarding EV's.  Go to the link above and give
> Morgan a call if you have
> ideas regarding getting some samples into this
> country for test drives.  I
> told Morgan no one will buy a vehicle without
> testing it.  I've heard that
> there are many ev's in Bejing now that the govt.
> there wants clean air for
> the Olys.  In China these are working vehicles.  Why
> not here?  Lawrence
> Rhodes........
> 
> 


Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic?  My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too! 
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
                          ____ 
                     __/__|__\ __        
  =D-------/    -  -         \  
                     'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? 
Are you saving any gas for your kids?

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Anyone seen this before?
> 

http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=3624337653720181416&sourceid=zeitgeist

Yes - the EVDL archives has plenty of discussion of the rolling start
and lack of starting lights or trap for accuracy, not a good way to
convince those who consider these de rigueur for any drag race.




--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you find a 1/4 mile time slip for this car please inform the list.  
Inquiring minds are curious to know :-)

----- Original Message -----
From: steve ollerton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 2:10 pm
Subject: fast EV
To: ev <[email protected]>

> Anyone seen this before?
> 
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject:      electric car
> Date:         Wed, 13 Sep 2006 21:58:56 +0100
> From:         Edward Brightman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Just seen this video, will yours be quite this fast?
> http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=3624337653720181416&sourceid=zeitgeist
> Very impressive stuff.
> ED
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here comes some help. 

I am in the transportation business and I have a suggestion that might help.
Contact an international freight forwarder with offices in the United States
and China. I do business with for example BAX Global www.baxglobal.com and
they do have offices in the United States and China. An international
Freight Forwarder would be of great help because they are very familiar with
all the necessary documentation and transportation costs on both ends
(export out of China and Import into the US) Besides you can obtain
information in your own language if you contact the Beijing office for
example. You can import a small quantity of product by air (fast, but more
expensive) or by LCL Less than Container Load (slower and cheaper)or you can
import a 20' container..I have no idea what you can afford.

Anyway, Morgan can write me directly and I will be glad to give him more
information...Morgan, make sure you have all your costs clearly spelled out
for you, so you have no surprises...

 

Orlando S. Ferrassoli
Operations
Ph: 661 273-2220
Fx: 661 273-2221
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 1:35 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Electric Vehicle Discussion List;
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; SFEVA
Subject: SPAM-LOW: First Electric Vehicles needs our help.

http://www.fevehicle.com/services.html

Here's the story.  Morgan(speaks with broken Chinese accent) wants to do
business in the USA importing the vehicles on the above site.  He also said
he has no idea how to do the documentation to even bring in samples for test
drives.  I know these vehicles would be interesting to the Arcaners.  Very
interesting to many of the EV groups.  I think there are brain resources on
many of these lists that can help Morgan help us.  He has the mainland
contacts.  I know some of the Arcaners have done miracles getting cars
across borders.  I also think making the cars a sort of kit would be a first
step in getting them into this country.  I know California is very lenient
regarding EV's.  Go to the link above and give Morgan a call if you have
ideas regarding getting some samples into this country for test drives.  I
told Morgan no one will buy a vehicle without testing it.  I've heard that
there are many ev's in Bejing now that the govt. there wants clean air for
the Olys.  In China these are working vehicles.  Why not here?  Lawrence
Rhodes........



--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, Sep 13, 2006 at 10:59:43PM -0000, Death to All Spammers wrote:
>
> Yes - the EVDL archives has plenty of discussion of the rolling start
> and lack of starting lights or trap for accuracy

The EVDL archives also have the conclusion to this discussion.

A video which showed a run on a strip with lights and traps.

Also, it is now well known that the rolling start was at the instance of the
other driver.

Thanks!

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all, just joined the list and I am collecting info
and parts to do my first ev conversion. I work as a
mechanic so the wrenching is nothing new but there are
obviously many things I'm not as familiar with. 
So... I bought an Auburn c600 controller on ebay and
then realized it doesnt have the cord thats suposed to
attach to the pot box and I dont know what else. On
the controller end is a round connector with 6 pins.
Hopefully someone knows what I'm talking about. :)
Anyhow, does anyone have/know where to get one of
these cords or can anyone tell me what pin conects to
what so I can rig something up?  
Thanks in advance and expect many more confused posts
as I collect more parts and start putting things
together.
Dave McGuire

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yo All,

Yeah it was a good article and damn it was painful watching those EV1's
being crushed. they have a ugly rear end though...

John, you gotta come down to Sydney one day and bring your Zombie, We should
have a drag race at Eastern Creek Raceway with my EV and others!

"Suck Amps Central"




On 13/09/06, James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

G'day All

15 minutes or so and it's over. Of course I recorded it! VHS, though...

About 10 to 12 mins of EV1/WKtEC, including crusher, shredded Hondas, a
couple of RAV/EVs and time with a RAV/EV owner with solar panels on the
house. Probably 30 to 50 seconds or so of a marketing bla-bla spin-doctor
from GM. Then John gets his boof head and sunglasses in front of the
camera
with Blue Meanie, showing off the motorised battery tray. A couple of
'girl
in the street' interviews with people (one of whom admits to not knowing
about any electric cars being available, ever) after seeing Blue Meanie
(with an ICE van in the background trying to get some ICing going and John
making disparaging remarks about it). Girlies reckoning that BM is 'cool'
etc.

A few minutes of John and his "Juice Bar", I think I saw Blue Meanie,
White
Zombie, Baby Blue, California Poppy, but John said 5 EVs so I'll have to
watch the tape & play "spot". John rabbiting on about horsepower/torque
and
two close-up-and-personal looks at Z2ks, one in WZ, the other in CalPopE.
WZ had the field weakening in place during filming.

I guess Tim? in WZ putting a helmet on. Shot of something BigICE making
noise and smoke down the strip. Seemed like about 25 seconds at the drag
strip, about 15 seconds of WZ making smoke, then eating a Mustang off the
line. About 5 seconds of California Poppy seemingly level off the line and
heading down the strip.

That was about it. Followed up by an article about city-owned bicycles in
France.

Of course I've missed a lot of details - ICEd out public solar charging,
electricity equivalent to 20c/gallon petrol, etc. SBS news had an article
about GMs latest hydrogen vehicle (immediately followed the article with a
promo for the dateline show and a comment about 'is that really going to
be
the future?).

Well, I guess as a reviewer, I probably make a good tech :^)

[Technik] James



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--- Begin Message ---
I have what I call my calibrated wire, I measured the millivolts across
a piece of cable between batteries then measured the amps on a smaller
scale to know the mV per amp then calculated the higher amps. This does
not take into account the temperature coefficient that Lee mentions and
has other stability issues but gave me a fair idea for a very good
price.

Nate

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--- Begin Message ---
150 mile range???

----- Original Message ----- From: "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: fast EV


Anyone seen this before?


http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=3624337653720181416&sourceid=zeitgeist

Yes - the EVDL archives has plenty of discussion of the rolling start
and lack of starting lights or trap for accuracy, not a good way to
convince those who consider these de rigueur for any drag race.





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--- Begin Message ---
Hey Dean,

Maybe you can YouTube it? http://www.youtube.com/

Not sure on the copyright side of things for this...

Tim 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dean Thompson
Sent: Wednesday, 13 September 2006 11:16 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Dateline article


James Massey wrote:

>15 minutes or so and it's over. Of course I recorded it! VHS, though...

I got it here on my computer as a MPEG file, 350MB SVCD, if someone
wants to host it... If I understand correctly it will be available for
watching on the Dateline website shortly.
http://news.sbs.com.au/dateline/

It goes for about 20 minutes, not a bad story, especially considering
stories on Dateline are done by reporters travelling alone, no camera
crews etc. Of course, we've all heard this story a hundred times before.
It was great to see some airtime for EVs on Australian TV, there is
rarely any mention of them in the media here. It was also cool, but
strange at the same time to see all these people I "know" from this list
from so far away on a local TV show here in Oz!

I didn't quite like the throw in to the story, George doesn't really
seem understand what he's talking about. I thought his statement about
the EV1 project saying "GM produced solar powered electric cars" could
confuse some or conjure up images of those little solar car racers.
Still, I think they managed to give a pretty good summary in the 20
minutes. Not a bad rundown of the segment James, I'm no reviewer either!
You did better than I could...

Cheers,
Dean


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On Sep 12, 2006, at 9:15 PM, Doug Weathers wrote:

You bet. <http://www.electroauto.com> does. <http://www.evparts.com> carries another one. <http://www.ev-america.com> sells a clutchless adapter. I'm sure there are more.

But then, how many adapters does a person need?

A good local machine shop, and a Ruland shaft coupler, can make a nice small shaft coupler. Its quite tolerant about motor spacing (extra spline length.) You only need to get an IRS VW Bus input to main shaft coupler from a rebuild shop or wrecker, a Ruland shaft coupler (I used the CLC-18-18-F that cost about $35 in 1998), and you have to cut off the pilot bearing end of the VW input shaft.

Going this route does require you to get a 4-speed transaxle but I wouldn't trust the wimpy, tiny, autostick clutch to hold up to electric motor torque anyway. While you're getting a 4-speed I recommend you pay a few hundred dollars for a freshly rebuilt unit and spec that they use the earlier style steel shift forks (quite a few rebuilders don't want anything to do with the later bronze ones anyway.) The early style transaxle in my '64 EV Buggy has had no problems as a clutchless EV using the described coupler (I've just ignored Ruland's 3000 rpm rev limit :-)

Paul G.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Good for you!!! One of the things that should be mentioned is that if the 9,000 cycle life is true, it could be one of the best things for solar and wind storage. 9,000 cycles divided by 300 full day cycles per year is a 30 year battery provided there are no shelf life, calendar life, and cost issues, etc.

I keep asking myself why are they headed toward EVs & PHEVs when the laptop/cell phone market is so hugh. I keep thinking cost. This battery maybe more complex in construction.

I'd like to be a fly on the wall after Phoenix Motorcars gets their shipment. I'd probably run into a hungry gecko!!!

Ron Freund wrote:
Hi Pete:
On Wed, Sep 13, 2006 at 07:53:48AM -0400, Peter Eckhoff wrote:
| Is anyone going to attend the Altair Nanotechnology presentation and | demo at the CARB ZEV Tech Symposium On Sept 27?
I'll be there on that day making my RAV4 user experience presentation.
I should be able to catch it... but it'll be right before
my own, so I might not be paying 100% attention.  (nerves)

The charging claim is really "interesting".  How do you recharge
something like that in such a short period of time?   You need
to replace the energy.  It'll take 480V three phase AC power
which is not easy to come by.  Let's see how this get's revised
in future releases of info...

Ron (skeptic) F.



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> The EVDL archives also have the conclusion to this discussion.
> 
> A video which showed a run on a strip with lights and traps.
> 
> Also, it is now well known that the rolling start was at the
instance of the
> other driver.
> 
> Thanks!
>

I didn't see that post - what was the link for the correctly-done 1/4mi?



--- End Message ---
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--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> 150 mile range???
> 
>

Yeah, 150mi range from a $150K, 1500lb car.



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Robert Chew writes:

> John, you gotta come down to Sydney one day and bring 
> your Zombie, We should have a drag race at Eastern Creek 
> Raceway with my EV and others!

I'd love to see that too. But that wouldn't be so much a race as a parade with 
a fleeting white speck in the distance. :-P


> "Suck Amps Central"

That was definitely the quote of the segment. John, even the host of the show 
got a chuckle out of that!

Cheers,
Claudio

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On Sep 13, 2006, at 2:40 PM, Victor Tikhonov wrote:

Any comments which flavor would you rather choose?

I like the one that's the least expensive!

User interfaces are very important to me. It looks like you've done a pretty good job with the user interface for the LED version. The LCD version doesn't look as well-thought-out, but it was just a demo. I assume it could be made even better than the LED version given the extra flexibility.

The LED version looks like it will do the job just fine. I would pay a small premium (10-20%) for a better UI, but wouldn't want to pay much more than that.

There's also the possibility of combining the two. Put the screen in the middle of the circular gauge, and put LED indicators in the bezel around the rectangular screen.

Lastly, I always admired the ability of the Brusa counters to drive an analog meter. How about an analog gauge with LED indicators? You could have three scales - amps, volts, fuel gauge - and only light up the one you're currently displaying.

Also, would you rather prefer have no enclosure and mount it
behind the dash as any other gauge, or have it stand-alone
as on the photo above?

In my particular case, I have a lot of empty dashboard, so I'd prefer a standard drill-a-hole-in-the-dashboard mounting technique. If you ship it with an enclosure I'll probably just remove it. But I expect that I'm in the minority, with my 1971 VW conversion. Most newer cars have less unused dashboard space.

Thanks for giving us the opportunity to give feedback!

Doug

--
Doug Weathers
Las Cruces, NM, USA
<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- careful of LCDs in cars, in direct sunlight during the summer, they will turn black and you have to cool them off before they are readable again

----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Weathers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: LED vs LCD display



On Sep 13, 2006, at 2:40 PM, Victor Tikhonov wrote:

Any comments which flavor would you rather choose?

I like the one that's the least expensive!

User interfaces are very important to me. It looks like you've done a pretty good job with the user interface for the LED version. The LCD version doesn't look as well-thought-out, but it was just a demo. I assume it could be made even better than the LED version given the extra flexibility.

The LED version looks like it will do the job just fine. I would pay a small premium (10-20%) for a better UI, but wouldn't want to pay much more than that.

There's also the possibility of combining the two. Put the screen in the middle of the circular gauge, and put LED indicators in the bezel around the rectangular screen.

Lastly, I always admired the ability of the Brusa counters to drive an analog meter. How about an analog gauge with LED indicators? You could have three scales - amps, volts, fuel gauge - and only light up the one you're currently displaying.

Also, would you rather prefer have no enclosure and mount it
behind the dash as any other gauge, or have it stand-alone
as on the photo above?

In my particular case, I have a lot of empty dashboard, so I'd prefer a standard drill-a-hole-in-the-dashboard mounting technique. If you ship it with an enclosure I'll probably just remove it. But I expect that I'm in the minority, with my 1971 VW conversion. Most newer cars have less unused dashboard space.

Thanks for giving us the opportunity to give feedback!

Doug

--
Doug Weathers
Las Cruces, NM, USA
<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>


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--- Begin Message ---
 
  Did you contact Mr. Mason and ask for the EV Hobbyist discount?
   
  Patrick

  From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: battery costs/pricing
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2006 15:37:15 -0500

well, got in contact with US battery, they have a distribution in fortsmith 
arkansas, like 5 miles away :o)

unfortunately, costs have gone up a LOT in 2 years

single price for US2200s is 70.09 each
if I buy 24 at one time, it's 67.89 each

*sighs*

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark McCurdy" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: battery costs/pricing


> I've sent an email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] asking, thanks for the 
> information.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Patrick Maston" 

> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:40 AM
> Subject: Re: battery costs/pricing
>
>
>
> U.S. Battery used to offer a discount to EV hobbyists and would ship the 
> order to them. Don't know if they still do. IIRC, the US2200s were about 
> $43 each.
>
> Blue skies,
>
> Patrick
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Mark McCurdy
> Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 7:31 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: battery costs/pricing
>
>
> gah, battery prices are inSANE in arkansas
> just called interstate batteries here, they said their 6v 115ah batteries
> were $73 each
>
> I think I'd rather order some and have them shipped from me
>
> anyone got suggestions on a good place?

                
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