EV Digest 5870

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: Battery Costs/Pricing
        by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Looking for 24v 3.5Ah/20HR sealed lead-acid battery
        by "Will Beckett \(becketts\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: LED vs LCD display
        by Jude Anthony <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: Firs Electric Vehicles Need our Help
        by "Orlando Ferrassoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) motor mounting question
        by John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) RE: Looking for 24v 3.5Ah/20HR sealed lead-acid battery
        by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re:  ooops ! in plain text now !
        by "Orlando Ferrassoli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) Re: ooops ! in plain text now !
        by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) RE: Looking for 24v 3.5Ah/20HR sealed lead-acid battery
        by "Will Beckett \(becketts\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) Re: Dateline article
        by "Ev Performance (Robert Chew)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Re: Battery choice and range
        by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) tachometer?
        by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Re: motor mounting question
        by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Re: tachometer?
        by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) RE: fast EV
        by "David Ankers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: tachometer?
        by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: fast EV
        by nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) Re: tachometer?
        by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) bittorrent of Dateline EV Episode
        by "David Ankers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) Re: Another car show
        by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) RE: fast EV
        by "David Ankers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Re: fast EV
        by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) Re: fast EV
        by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 24) Re: LED vs LCD display
        by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 25) Australian EV group
        by "Chelsea Sexton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 26) Re: fast EV
        by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 27) Re: Australian EV group
        by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 28) Re: Potter & Brumfield Relay for Ceramic Heater
        by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 29) Re: LED vs LCD display
        by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 30) Dateline is stirring interest in EVs down under
        by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 31) Re: tachometer?
        by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 32) Re: Australian EV group
        by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Wallace directed me to call local distribution here in fort smith
didn't see an address for a Mason on their website  :o/


----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Maston" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 8:33 PM
Subject: Re: Battery Costs/Pricing



 Did you contact Mr. Mason and ask for the EV Hobbyist discount?

 Patrick

 From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: battery costs/pricing
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2006 15:37:15 -0500

well, got in contact with US battery, they have a distribution in fortsmith
arkansas, like 5 miles away :o)

unfortunately, costs have gone up a LOT in 2 years

single price for US2200s is 70.09 each
if I buy 24 at one time, it's 67.89 each

*sighs*

----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark McCurdy"
To:
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: battery costs/pricing


I've sent an email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] asking, thanks for the
information.

----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick Maston"

To:
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: battery costs/pricing



U.S. Battery used to offer a discount to EV hobbyists and would ship the
order to them. Don't know if they still do. IIRC, the US2200s were about
$43 each.

Blue skies,

Patrick


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Mark McCurdy
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 7:31 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: battery costs/pricing


gah, battery prices are inSANE in arkansas
just called interstate batteries here, they said their 6v 115ah batteries
were $73 each

I think I'd rather order some and have them shipped from me

anyone got suggestions on a good place?


---------------------------------
All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Got a free scooter but the battery is shot.  I would like to get a new
battery but I haven't been able to come up with the right one on the
internet.  Anyone have some ideas?

24v 3.5Ah/20HR  7 x 2 5/8 x 2 5/8

The brand on this is Tianyi model TY2435


- Will
Aptos, CA  95003
(831) 688-8669
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I LOVE IT!

My E-Meter (not a Link 10, it's that old) has been acting up lately. This looks like a fantastic replacement.

I thought the LCD version was particularly impressive. It was very easy to understand.

I had some trouble with the LED version, but that's probably because I just haven't been told what the flashing lines around the rim are. Wow, they're cool, though. I prefer enclosures. My E-Meter is bolted to the dash; I'd likely do the same with this. A removable enclosure for those wishing to mount in the instrument cluster would be ideal, of course.

Nice job, Victor. What auxiliary stuff is required? Just a prescaler, shunt, and DC/DC like the E-Meter?

Jude Anthony

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
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*     This post contains a forbidden message format       *
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
OK so i'm making some progress which of course means I have questions.

I have a 9 inch ADC and one of the clamshell type mounts. I am fabricating a cross brace that the clamshell will hang from. The cross brace is attached to the stock engine mounts of my truck. I have a little bit of leeway regarding where on the motor the clamshell mount will attach. The way I currently have it laid out the clamshell will be forward (towards the transmission) of the middle of the motor. Should I try and relocate the cross brace and clamshell so that it holds the middle of the motor?

For reference in all cases the clamshell strap will attach between the motor terminal bolts

John


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Will,

Usually the e-scooters and e-bikes use 2 12V lead acid
batteries in series, so look for two 12V 3.5Ah ones.
My eBike has 2 12V 12Ah ones, I would expect that in 
the (online) scooter stores you would find replacements.
I know the UB1234 is 12V 3.4 Ah but there are so many
suppliers around. Likely Ebay can give you some references.

BTW, did you try to nurture the old battery back to life?
(cycling it several times to see if the capacity will
increase)

Success, 

Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water    IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:   +1 408 542 5225     VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax:   +1 408 731 3675     eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks   eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further  http://www.proxim.com


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Will Beckett (becketts)
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 6:07 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Looking for 24v 3.5Ah/20HR sealed lead-acid battery


Got a free scooter but the battery is shot.  I would like to get a new
battery but I haven't been able to come up with the right one on the
internet.  Anyone have some ideas?

24v 3.5Ah/20HR  7 x 2 5/8 x 2 5/8

The brand on this is Tianyi model TY2435


- Will
Aptos, CA  95003
(831) 688-8669
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here comes some help. 

I am in the transportation business and I have a suggestion that might help.
Contact an international freight forwarder with offices in the United States
and China. I do business with for example BAX Global www.baxglobal.com and
they do have offices in the United States and China. An international
Freight Forwarder would be of great help because they are very familiar with
all the necessary documentation and transportation costs on both ends
(export out of China and Import into the US) Besides you can obtain
information in your own language if you contact the Beijing office for
example. You can import a small quantity of product by air (fast, but more
expensive) or by LCL Less than Container Load (slower and cheaper)or you can
import a 20' container..I have no idea what you can afford.

Anyway, Morgan can write me directly and I will be glad to give him more
information...Morgan, make sure you have all your costs clearly spelled out
for you, so you have no surprises...

 

Orlando S. Ferrassoli
Operations
Ph: 661 273-2220
Fx: 661 273-2221
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 1:35 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Electric Vehicle Discussion List;
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; SFEVA
Subject: SPAM-LOW: First Electric Vehicles needs our help.

http://www.fevehicle.com/services.html

Here's the story.  Morgan(speaks with broken Chinese accent) wants to do
business in the USA importing the vehicles on the above site.  He also said
he has no idea how to do the documentation to even bring in samples for test
drives.  I know these vehicles would be interesting to the Arcaners.  Very
interesting to many of the EV groups.  I think there are brain resources on
many of these lists that can help Morgan help us.  He has the mainland
contacts.  I know some of the Arcaners have done miracles getting cars
across borders.  I also think making the cars a sort of kit would be a first
step in getting them into this country.  I know California is very lenient
regarding EV's.  Go to the link above and give Morgan a call if you have
ideas regarding getting some samples into this country for test drives.  I
told Morgan no one will buy a vehicle without testing it.  I've heard that
there are many ev's in Bejing now that the govt. there wants clean air for
the Olys.  In China these are working vehicles.  Why not here?  Lawrence
Rhodes........



Orlando S. Ferrassoli
Operations
Ph: 661 273-2220
Fx: 661 273-2221
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Contact an international freight forwarder with offices in the
United States
> and China. I do business with for example BAX Global
www.baxglobal.com and
> they do have offices in the United States and China. An international
> Freight Forwarder would be of great help because they are very
familiar with
> all the necessary documentation and transportation costs on both ends
> (export out of China and Import into the US) Besides you can obtain
> information in your own language if you contact the Beijing office for
> example. You can import a small quantity of product by air (fast,
but more
> expensive) or by LCL Less than Container Load (slower and cheaper)or
you can
> import a 20' container..I have no idea what you can afford.
> 

Perhaps a bigger consideration is what happens when it gets here - the
legal issues of anything that rolls on public roads get very
complicated for an importer. As previously mentioned, breaking the
car/van/cycle into easily reassembled parts, selling them as seperate
items (especially if you let people buy only what they want), and
leaving the licensing up to the guy or gal who is "building" the
vehicle may be the quickest way to get these on the roads. Personally,
my biggest concern is safety, followed by dependability and the
quality of the materials - will our Chinese associate vouch for the
fit-and-finish of the subcomponents? Even so, we, the US buyer/builder
would be responsible for the final product if this comes in as a kit
car...I'm OK with that.




--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I charged the old one all day and it remains at 8.5 volts.  Good suggestion
on the two 12v.  I will see if I can find something that fits.  Thanks! 


- Will
Aptos, CA  95003
(831) 688-8669
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Cor van de Water
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 9:05 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Looking for 24v 3.5Ah/20HR sealed lead-acid battery

Will,

Usually the e-scooters and e-bikes use 2 12V lead acid batteries in series,
so look for two 12V 3.5Ah ones.
My eBike has 2 12V 12Ah ones, I would expect that in the (online) scooter
stores you would find replacements.
I know the UB1234 is 12V 3.4 Ah but there are so many suppliers around.
Likely Ebay can give you some references.

BTW, did you try to nurture the old battery back to life?
(cycling it several times to see if the capacity will
increase)

Success, 

Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water    IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel:   +1 408 542 5225     VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax:   +1 408 731 3675     eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks   eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further  http://www.proxim.com


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Will Beckett (becketts)
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 6:07 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Looking for 24v 3.5Ah/20HR sealed lead-acid battery


Got a free scooter but the battery is shot.  I would like to get a new
battery but I haven't been able to come up with the right one on the
internet.  Anyone have some ideas?

24v 3.5Ah/20HR  7 x 2 5/8 x 2 5/8

The brand on this is Tianyi model TY2435


- Will
Aptos, CA  95003
(831) 688-8669
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 



--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.3/446 - Release Date: 9/12/2006

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey hey,

I'll take Johnny Wayland on....hehehe (in my dreams)

Any EVer's in other conutries gonna come down under. if so, we should meet
up.

Cheers


On 14/09/06, Claudio Natoli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Robert Chew writes:

> John, you gotta come down to Sydney one day and bring
> your Zombie, We should have a drag race at Eastern Creek
> Raceway with my EV and others!

I'd love to see that too. But that wouldn't be so much a race as a parade
with a fleeting white speck in the distance. :-P


> "Suck Amps Central"

That was definitely the quote of the segment. John, even the host of the
show got a chuckle out of that!

Cheers,
Claudio



--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> So the Peukert Const is for lead-acid only?
> 
> -Ralph

Correct.

Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- What do you guys use for tachometers? Got to test the speed of the motor I have.

guys use something like this?
ebay 120030820788
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello John,

You can mount the clam shell any place between the two motor terminals.

My clam shell on the 9 inch is 5 inches wide and mounts right behind the 
front terminals (at the pilot shaft end).

This is where I mounted it, so it will fit my engine mount location.

You will find when a transmission is mounted on the motor, the center of 
balance may be at the rear of the motor (towards the transmission).

I weld 1/4 by 1/4 inch square rods under the clam shell, so the clam shell 
can slide over the field bolts that are on the surface of my Warp 9.  This 
raises the clam shell up a bit, so I weld on a larger angle flange at one 
end of the clam shell, so it will fit tight over the body of the motor.

I welded 3 rolls of 1/4 by 1/4 under the 5 inch clam shell which one was on 
the outside edges and one somewhere in the middle so as to miss the field 
bolts and every thing would line up to the engine mount.

My clam shall looks 3/8 inch thick with the 1/4 inch rods weld on the side. 
I then painted it with Stainless Steel epoxy appliance paint which needs no 
primer.

I still had to made a small adapter that is 3/4 inch thick that is welded in 
the correct locations on the side.  These are tap with 1/2 inch bolt holes 
to fit the existing GM engine mounts.

Roland






----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 8:45 PM
Subject: motor mounting question


> OK so i'm making some progress which of course means I have questions.
>
> I have a 9 inch ADC and one of the clamshell type mounts. I am
> fabricating a cross brace that the clamshell will hang from. The cross
> brace is attached to the stock engine mounts of my truck. I have a
> little bit of leeway regarding where on the motor the clamshell mount
> will attach. The way I currently have it laid out the clamshell will be
> forward (towards the transmission) of the middle of the motor. Should I
> try and relocate the cross brace and clamshell so that it holds the
> middle of the motor?
>
> For reference in all cases the clamshell strap will attach between the
> motor terminal bolts
>
> John
>
>
>
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Mark,

I use a Stewart Warner tachometer, that has four adjustments for 4, 6, and 8 
cylinder engine. I had to switch it to either 4 or 6 cylinder to make it 
work right.

This tach will work on points, amplifier or magnetic pick up type of 
ignition system.

Also some tachs need to be converted to accept the pulses from the Zilla.  I 
did not have to add this module which you can get from MSD that converts 
existing tachs that uses a signal from either points, amplifier or magnetic 
pickup.

Roland




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 7:00 AM
Subject: tachometer?


> What do you guys use for tachometers? Got to test the speed of the motor I
> have.
>
> guys use something like this?
> ebay 120030820788
>
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Isn't calling it a car is a bit of a stretch? Where's the rest of it? 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Death to All Spammers
Sent: Thursday, 14 September 2006 11:01 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: fast EV

--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> 150 mile range???
> 
>

Yeah, 150mi range from a $150K, 1500lb car.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Currently I have nothing, no pickups, no tach meter, so, starting from scratch, knowing that it needs a motor sensor (no zilla) and connect that to a meter, what should I get?

the ebay Item I referenced will work when handheld but I'm also wanting something I can mount in the dash to notify me when it overrevs (have it activate a shift light like some tachs have)

----- Original Message ----- From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: tachometer?


Hello Mark,

I use a Stewart Warner tachometer, that has four adjustments for 4, 6, and 8 cylinder engine. I had to switch it to either 4 or 6 cylinder to make it work right.

This tach will work on points, amplifier or magnetic pick up type of ignition system.

Also some tachs need to be converted to accept the pulses from the Zilla. I did not have to add this module which you can get from MSD that converts existing tachs that uses a signal from either points, amplifier or magnetic pickup.

Roland




----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 7:00 AM
Subject: tachometer?


What do you guys use for tachometers? Got to test the speed of the motor I
have.

guys use something like this?
ebay 120030820788




--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I shall introduce the cat to the pigeons.

Define "Car"

:)

Regards

Nikki.


DC [EMAIL 
PROTECTED])¢Ë\¢{ZŠ{~ŠÛ‰×^žg¬±¨~ŠæjÛ.r¬jv­µ§!y×â•æ¯qªÝ3~ŠæjÛbžâ²Û¶Èì¹çn¢yriǦÓ˃StÈ*.®š,¶)à±Ø¬¦V²¶¬™ë,j²¢êæj)i®ˆ+jh¬ž‹lzÛh±éÝ<°51LãKa©Ýç±§cºËbž
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: tachometer?
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 08:52:23 -0600
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
        charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

There is four other ways to do this.

One is using a MSD magnet crank trigger which uses four magnets on the 
wheel.  It has a pick up that you can send the pulses to the correct type of 
tach. This is more difficult to install.

You can also mount four magnets on a aluminum wheel using a pick up that 
send 12 vdc pulses to the tach.  I got this kit from Café Electric. You have 
to machine a aluminum disk about 3 inches in diameter, placing 1/4 diameter 
neo magnets on a 2.5 inch circle.

Another way is to use the tach and sender kit from evparts.com which 
requires a shaft extender off a pilot shaft. You just clamp it on to the 
shaft and you can get the correct tach from them.

Or used a ADC sender and pickup for the ADC motor which you can also get 
from any evparts.com or any ev parts source. You may have to get some other 
accessories to run this on some tachs.

Roland




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 7:33 AM
Subject: Re: tachometer?


> Currently I have nothing, no pickups, no tach meter, so, starting from
> scratch, knowing that it needs a motor sensor (no zilla) and connect that 
> to
> a meter, what should I get?
>
> the ebay Item I referenced will work when handheld but I'm also wanting
> something I can mount in the dash to notify me when it overrevs (have it
> activate a shift light like some tachs have)
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 8:25 AM
> Subject: Re: tachometer?
>
>
> > Hello Mark,
> >
> > I use a Stewart Warner tachometer, that has four adjustments for 4, 6, 
> > and
> > 8 cylinder engine. I had to switch it to either 4 or 6 cylinder to make 
> > it
> > work right.
> >
> > This tach will work on points, amplifier or magnetic pick up type of
> > ignition system.
> >
> > Also some tachs need to be converted to accept the pulses from the 
> > Zilla.
> > I did not have to add this module which you can get from MSD that 
> > converts
> > existing tachs that uses a signal from either points, amplifier or
> > magnetic pickup.
> >
> > Roland
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 7:00 AM
> > Subject: tachometer?
> >
> >
> >> What do you guys use for tachometers? Got to test the speed of the 
> >> motor
> >> I
> >> have.
> >>
> >> guys use something like this?
> >> ebay 120030820788
> >>
> >>
> >
>
> 
From: "David Ankers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: bittorrent of Dateline EV Episode
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2006 00:56:22 +1000
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
        charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Found this on mininova:

http://www.mininova.org/tor/422839
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 15:00:49 -0000
From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: John Wayland <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Another car show
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Ok, I'll take the bait....

I even posted a video showing the trap speed and time of the X1 from a
standing start. That easily equals a time slip. I can see the X1 being
snake oil to you John. Advanced foreign technology often gets that
kind of response. It does however advance the EV cause for everyone,
except you of course, since you are the pinnacle of technology ;) You
also claimed in that video to have the fastest ride around. Or was it
quickest? I thought that was Rod's domain.

X1 = 11's WZ = 12's. Is it even a race? Definitely not a technology
race. We all know who the winner is there ;) 

With the advent of the Tesla, I don't know how the X1 will do
commercially. But technologically, it's hard to beat a very well
engineered frame and light weight components to make an EV that did
11's in the 1/4 mile it's very first time to the track and has
incredible range and efficiency. 

Here's the url to the X1's 11 second run, from a standing start,
racing only the track timer. A little slower ET due to the wet track.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvjH4QUtZFo

Mike



 

--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hello to Mike and All,
> 
> Mike Willmon wrote:
> 
> >I'm planning to exhibit at the Alaska Renewable Energy Fair in
about a month with an expected turnout of 2000. Needless to say I've
come across many videos of a racing theme :-) ...Yes also the
WrightSpeed video.
> >
> 
> Mike, please don't show the 'skeleton' vehicle. Most people who see it 
> find the 'vehicle' (I won't call it a car) laughable...no roof, no 
> doors, no body sheet metal, no windows...come on, it's a joke. Then, 
> there's the funky suido drag race against full bodied exotic cars,
where 
> they don't do it from a standing start (extremely important to display 
> acceleration capability), they don't use timing lights, and there's not 
> even a certifiable time slip. In my and respected EVers' opinions, this 
> campaign reeks of snake oil and is doing more to hurt the EV image than 
> it does to help it.
> 




From: "David Ankers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: fast EV
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2006 01:01:34 +1000
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
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        charset="US-ASCII"
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Bodywork would have to be in there somewhere?

That's an enlarged roller skate with seats. To be fair, I have heard that
the production version will come with a wet weather kit, this consists of an
umbrella and a scuba diving mask.


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of nikki
Sent: Friday, 15 September 2006 12:28 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: fast EV

I shall introduce the cat to the pigeons.

Define "Car"

:)

Regards

Nikki.
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 15:05:20 -0000
From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: steve ollerton <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: fast EV
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
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Ed,

I've ridden in the X1. It blurred my vision.

Here is the link to the video of the X1 making a 1/4 mile run against
only the track timer. Just a bit slow due to a wet track.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvjH4QUtZFo

Mike





--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], steve ollerton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Anyone seen this before?
> 
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject:      electric car
> Date:         Wed, 13 Sep 2006 21:58:56 +0100
> From:         Edward Brightman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> Just seen this video, will yours be quite this fast?
>
http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=3624337653720181416&sourceid=zeitgeist
> Very impressive stuff.
> ED
>




Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 15:06:50 -0000
From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Death to All Spammers" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: fast EV
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
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And only 500 lbs of batterys. Or was it 250 lbs of batterys? Silly AC
people ;)

Mike



--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Death to All Spammers"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Mark McCurdy" <ev@> wrote:
> >
> > 150 mile range???
> > 
> >
> 
> Yeah, 150mi range from a $150K, 1500lb car.
>



Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 10:20:31 -0500
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: LED vs LCD display
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Victor Tikhonov wrote:
>> But of course 7 segments are quite limited in what can be
>> displayed. If non-numeric info is needed, it's quite cryptic.
>> Graphics LCD of course can mimic 7-segments and do much more,
>> but common ones are harder to read. Not so bad if they are
>> in a shadow deeper in the enclosure, and I lean toward this option.

John G. Lussmyer wrote:
> What about dot-matrix LED displays?
> Like http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T063/1959.pdf

Or "British flag" displays like
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T063/1960.pdf

Unfortunately, display type is a matter of taste more than engineering. 
The display is the "face" of the product, and people will judge it on 
appearance, fashion and style -- not readability or performance. People 
will want whatever looks cool on the latest electronic gadgets in the 
stores, and matches the rest of the stuff on their dash. So, everyone 
will have their own (strongly held) opinions, regardless of how it 
actually works.

9 out of 10 of the displays I see on products are terrible -- they look 
nice but have fatal flaws. Common ones:

  - too small to easily read (packs too much data into too small a space)
  - restrictive viewing angle (can't read except from the right position)
  - can't read with polarized sunglasses
  - can't read in direct sunlight (not bright enough)
  - can't read in darkness
  - uses meaningless undefined icons
  - gets dirty and smudgy and can't be cleaned
  - wastes power (important in an EV)
  - won't work at extreme temperatures (Arizona sun, Minnesota winter)

Overall, I like the vacuum fluorescent displays the best for car 
dashboards. LEDs are my second choice, if you can get them bright enough.
-- 
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Chelsea Sexton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Australian EV group
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 15:33:37 +0000
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

Hey all...

Plug In America has been getting several folks writing in from Australia 
since the Dateline piece (and a few before) wanting info on local EV 
resources. I've noticed several Aussies on this list- is there an EAA 
equivalent there at all or any specific place you'd like me to refer them 
to, besides the EAA and PIA sites?

Thanks,

chelsea
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 15:42:06 -0000
From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "David Ankers" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: fast EV
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
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There are tabs welded into the openings of the frame rails for adding
panels should an owner wish to add them.

Mike



--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "David Ankers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Bodywork would have to be in there somewhere?
> 
> That's an enlarged roller skate with seats. To be fair, I have heard
that
> the production version will come with a wet weather kit, this
consists of an
> umbrella and a scuba diving mask.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of nikki
> Sent: Friday, 15 September 2006 12:28 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: fast EV
> 
> I shall introduce the cat to the pigeons.
> 
> Define "Car"
> 
> :)
> 
> Regards
> 
> Nikki.
>




Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Australian EV group
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 08:45:17 -0700
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=response

There is the AEVA, the Australian Electric Vehicle Association, 
http://www.aeva.asn.au but please send them as much info and links as 
possible.

Roderick Wilde
EV Parts, Inc.
www.evparts.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chelsea Sexton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 8:33 AM
Subject: Australian EV group


> Hey all...
>
> Plug In America has been getting several folks writing in from Australia 
> since the Dateline piece (and a few before) wanting info on local EV 
> resources. I've noticed several Aussies on this list- is there an EAA 
> equivalent there at all or any specific place you'd like me to refer them 
> to, besides the EAA and PIA sites?
>
> Thanks,
>
> chelsea
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.3/447 - Release Date: 9/13/2006
>
> 



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Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 10:54:42 -0500
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Potter & Brumfield Relay for Ceramic Heater
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

MIKE WILLMON wrote:
> My fan switch has 4 indents. My thought is that I could get 3 more
> of these KUEP-11D15-12 and tap each fan speed power input to a coil
>  on a KUEP-11D15-12.

If I understand it correctly, you want to use the fan motor voltage to 
operate the relays? If so, this won't work.

The low/medium/high fan speed is accomplished with a resistor controller 
(just like EVs in the 1900's). Low connects a higher resistance between 
12v and the fan (~6v at the motor), Medium a lower resistance (~9v), and 
High is direct to 12v with no resistor.

Relays depend on "instantaneous" application and removal of coil current 
to turn on and off quickly. If you apply a low or slowly ramping 
voltage, the contacts open and close slowly. This makes them arc more, 
and reduces their voltage rating.

So, if you connect a relay coil across the fan, it sees a voltage that 
slowly ramps up as the fan comes up to speed, and slowly ramps down when 
the fan is turned off (it's a PM motor, and so acts as a generator). The 
relay's contacts will quickly burn up.

If you use separate relay coils for each fan speed, each wired ahead of 
the fan speed dropping resistors, the relays pull in fast, but still 
drop out slowly due to the generated voltage from the motor.

> I would series the poles on each of the DPDT relays to be able to
> break my 192V

Each contact of the DPDT version is rated 3amps at 150vdc MAXIMUM. 
Exceed these limits and the life goes down fast. Two contacts in series 
will be ok for your 192vdc pack, which could reach perhaps 250vdc during 
charging.

> and the 1.25A draw (average) from each individual element in the
> ceramic module should be within the range of the 3A contact rating.

It's clever to wire each element of the ceramic heater to its own relay 
contacts. But what matters to the relay is the PEAK heater current that 
it has to switch; not the average. I'd be surprised if the peak current 
for *each* element isn't in excess of 4 amps. Test it at the coldest 
ambient temperature, maximum supply voltage, and maximum airflow.

Heaters are tricky because the failure modes can be catastrophic. I'd 
suggest doing a FMEA (Failure Mode Effect Analysis). This means you 
consider each part individually; what is its worst failure mode, and 
what happens next if it occurs? From best to worst-case:

Best:  - system quits working safely, and user can tell it's broken
        - system generates some kind of warning or alarm, but still works
        - system keeps working, with no apparent consequences
Worst: - system sticks "on", melts down, starts a fire, etc.
-- 
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 15:51:57 -0000
From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Victor Tikhonov <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: LED vs LCD display
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

I would not choose between the two. I think they have separate but
equal uses. As a guage the LED version rocks. For system info the LCD
did a nice job.

If I were going to buy one I'd pick the LED version. 

Mike

--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> This has been asked before but I'm still debating
> which version has better potential in the EV use.
> 
> I'm talking about EVision - the product alternative
> for e-meter. Displays any 3 (out of about dozen) parameters
> simultaneously, one - on 25 LEDs bar graph.
> 
> A picture of its production display module is here:
> http://www.metricmind.com/misc/dscn4980.jpg
> There are no buttons on the display - they are remote (and optional).
> 
> On this particular proto wrong LEDs were used (hi intensity
> white and blue, very directional) instead of rectangular light
> blocks, so the illumination of units is not as uniform as it meant
> to be, but it's easy to fix.
> 
> Point is, LEDs are brighter than LCD (at least those I could put
> my hands on).
> But of course 7 segments are quite limited in what can be
> displayed. If non-numeric info is needed, it's quite cryptic.
> Graphics LCD of course can mimic 7-segments and do much more,
> but common ones are harder to read. Not so bad if they are
> in a shadow deeper in the enclosure, and I lean toward this option.
> 
> I made couple of short videos (bad quality, by point-and-shoot
> small digital camera) showing small "demo" running on
> both displays. LCD is about 1.5"x1.5", and it is installable
> right in place (instead of) 6 blocks of 7-seg displays, takes
> the same real state.
> 
> LED version demo: http://www.metricmind.com/misc/dscn4874.mov 7MB file
> LCD short demo http://www.metricmind.com/misc/dscn4870.mov - 4.5MB file
> 
> Any comments which flavor would you rather choose?
> Also, would you rather prefer have no enclosure and mount it
> behind the dash as any other gauge, or have it stand-alone
> as on the photo above?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any feed back,
> 
> --
> Victor
> '91 ACRX - something different
>




Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Dateline is stirring interest in EVs down under
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 08:54:51 -0700
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=response

Since the airing of the show I have been getting a lot of inquires from 
Australia just as Chelsea has been experiencing. I have been referring them 
to the AEVA, instructions for getting on the EV List, and various links. I 
feel this show has had a very good impact down under. I think the scene of 
John Wayland blowing away a muscle car had the most impact but I must admit 
that I am performance prejudiced. It is just that the image of EVs has 
always been that of a slow vehicle. The short lived EV1 did a lot to dispel 
that myth in certain areas of the country. The sad truth is that most people 
in this country had never even heard of it. So much for "the award winning 
add campaigns" that GM claimed.

Roderick Wilde
EV Parts, Inc.
www.evparts.com




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Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 11:23:43 -0500
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: tachometer?
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
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Mark McCurdy wrote:
> Currently I have nothing, no pickups, no tach meter, so, starting from 
> scratch, knowing that it needs a motor sensor (no zilla) and connect 
> that to a meter, what should I get?

Just for reference, most tachometers are an analog meter movement. It's 
basically a voltmeter with a resistance of about 200-1000 ohms of 
resistance. Full scale current will be about 10ma or so.

Any PM DC motor makes a fine RPM sensor. At light load, the voltage it 
generates is exactly proportional to RPM.

So, a tachometer can be as simple as any little DC motor, coupled to the 
back shaft of your traction motor, connected to your tachometer (or any 
voltmeter), with a series resistor to calibrate it.
-- 
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Australian EV group
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 12:26:22 -0400
MIME-Version: 1.0
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        charset="iso-8859-1"
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chelsea Sexton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 11:33 AM
Subject: Australian EV group


> Hey all...
>
> Plug In America has been getting several folks writing in from Australia
> since the Dateline piece (and a few before) wanting info on local EV
> resources. I've noticed several Aussies on this list- is there an EAA
> equivalent there at all or any specific place you'd like me to refer them
> to, besides the EAA and PIA sites?
>
> Thanks,
>
> chelsea
>
>   Hi Chelsea;

      Gees! How nice to see you here!I would like to say " Welcome Aboard"
and say thanks from an' Old EV Fart here!Hope ya stick around?? I follow
Plug in America and glad to see all the what's going on there, and the great
links. Seems it;'s time to get the Worlds' EVers together. A International
EAA? Why not? I'll bet there are people all over the world that would chime
in?There IS a Japan EV Club, or group thing there. China? Hello, China?
France, I know, England, there are a bunch of guys from UK on the List
already.

    Maybe "Plug in the World" is next?

     MY two Watts worth.

     Bob, in the Colonies, CT

--- End Message ---

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