EV Digest 5960
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Our litigious society
by Steve Condie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Stupid Question?
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Vacuum Reservoir
by John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Wandering Ranger
by "Mark McCurdy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Wandering Ranger
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Zilla controls backordered?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Floodies/Batt. murder mystery
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: PFC-30 no-drive-away interlock
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: Zilla controls backordered?
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Range Was: Weight and range (Was: Re: Battery boxes)
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: ADC 8" inch rotation direction
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: VW on EVTrader
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Wandering Ranger
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Brake lights on regen
by Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) CP fault
by Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) interpoles
by Mike Sandman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Our litigious society
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Brake lights on regen
by Storm Connors <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Toothless ZEV mandate, was Re: Build EV For Someone Else
by Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: Big/unexpected voltage drop
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: question to victor
by "Lawrie, Robin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Vacuum Reservoir
by Storm Connors <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Vacuum Reservoir
by John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Wandering Ranger
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: PFC-30 no-drive-away interlock
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Vacuum Reservoir
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: ADC 8" inch rotation direction
by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Vacuum Reservoir
by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
OK, real, genuine lawyer here (I usually try to hide it so that people won't
(a) call me names or (b) try to get me to work on their hopeless cases for
free. Let me make a couple of observations:
First, yes, a plainly written statement that the vehicle is experimental,
uses technology which is not mature in the marketplace, home-built, etc. is a
good idea. It's always good that people are informed about the reality of a
situation they're about the get into.
Second: our society really isn't that "litigious". Most of the horror
stories you've heard are either (a) fake or (b) inaccurately reported. In
fact, the $300 it takes to file a lawsuit is just the tip of the iceberg.
Getting a real lawyer to file a lawsuit generally requires an actual misdeed
which resulted in actual (and non-trivial) harm to someone. 40 miles range vs
anticipated 50 - probably not an issue. If you zoned out and didn't torque
down your cables and someone gets electrocuted.... well, who should bear that
loss? The widow? Or you? Somebody will, that's for sure.
Finally, what a lot of people want is sort of the mirror image of a
"litigious society" - and just as bad, or worse. That is a situation where the
harm of an error always rests 100% on the person injured by it, and the person
responsible for cutting corners, or just plain screwing up, walks away. That
wouldn't be right.
I know I'll get a raft of "Well, let me tell you what happend to a friend of
mine..." stories, but I've been in this business for over 30 years. It's far
from perfect, but for the most part it runs on common sense. And no - I don't
represent plaintiffs in injury cases. I just know how the system really works.
Do your best, tell the truth, be responsible for your errors, and for the most
part, things work out. No one promised a life free of risk.
steve clunn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Kobb"
> Now, in the past, I wouldn't even have paid attention to such a pitch.
> Lately, however, I've had EVs on the brain, and I've even been mulling
> over the idea of selling converted vehicles to other people... maybe even
> for a profit.
>
It's natural , when you find something good , you want to share it . It made
you happy , making others happy also makes one happy. Most of the people
who are interested in EV's are on a higher leaver to begin with . They are
willing to go out on a lime to do what they feel is the right thing to do
now. If you can put them in a EV that will do what they need it to do they
will be very appositive as you've given them a freedom they never new
before. When my cell phone goes off and I see the number of one of the
people who are driving one of my conversions , My first though is " Oh god
,,, " but 95% of the time , they're just calling to tell me about some EV
experience they just had , showing off the car , or driving further than
ever , some new trick they learned to get extra mileage. Then "Steve I can't
tell you how much I'm enjoying my EV,,,,,,, . What is that worth ?
> Seeing the law firm's commercial put me in a different state of mind,
> however.
>
Maybe some of the lawyers on the list could post a contract that would easy
your state of mine .
> Suddenly, I had visions of a disgruntled customer who only got 40 miles
> out of a charge instead of an anticipated 50. Or worse, a wreck-survivor
> who blamed the accident on that "poorly-installed controller" in his EV.
Yep all stuff to worry about and do the best job you can for a reasonable
price , don't hide anything , there is somewhat of a standard set up now ,
fuse , emergency disconnect , main contactor , GFI .
Steve Clunn
>
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low PC-to-Phone call rates.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I wrote:
> At the very least, they have to go for a more powerful controller,
> but this is more like going for a Z1K instead of a 5050-A Cutris,
Sorry its been along day already: that should have read: 550A Curtis.
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I do not in fact have a check valve, hopefully that is the problem
because my rubber stopper grommet solution seemed pretty airtight.
Many thanks fro the advise and many more thanks if that is my problem
On Tuesday, October 3, 2006, at 09:54 PM, Storm Connors wrote:
Threaded connections will not hold air or water
without some sort of thread sealer. I personally use
Permatex Formagasket number 2, but there are others
including a teflon tape. Also, is there some sort of
check valve between the pump and the tank? It could be
that the pump is leaking and bleeding the tank.
Hope this helps.
storm
--- John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Arrg,
How do folks create vacuum reservoirs that actually
hold a vacuum?
I tried self tapping the PVC end cap with a brass
fitting which did not
work, then I got a rubber stopper from home depot
and fashioned a
grommet that another brass fitting is squeezed
through. That is holding
a vacuum for about 1 minute then the pump switches
back on.
It is all rather frustrating.
John
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
sounds like you have a bearing going out or your brakes are dragging
needs fixed asap or it might fail altogether
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 11:52 PM
Subject: Wandering Ranger
Recently, I have found my range dropping, and noticed the truck pulling to
the
right on the freeway - not so dramatic at lower speeds, but still moves
that
way if you let go. I suppose this is something more than toe-in; anyone
have
links to how to fix this without paying for someone more mechanically
minded to
do it? It's a 2000 Ford Ranger EV - these use a 4x4 frame, but since it
doesn't
have FWD, it probably uses a 2WD's steering assembly.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Recently, I have found my range dropping, and noticed the
> truck pulling to the right on the freeway - not so dramatic
> at lower speeds, but still moves that way if you let go. I
> suppose this is something more than toe-in; anyone have
> links to how to fix this without paying for someone more
> mechanically minded to do it? It's a 2000 Ford Ranger EV
> - these use a 4x4 frame, but since it doesn't
> have FWD, it probably uses a 2WD's steering assembly.
First thing to check is your tire pressures; you may have a low tire.
If that isn't it, have you struck a curb, etc. recently? The front end
may be out of alignment. It is probably worth taking the truck in to a
shop to have the alignment checked/set if you suspect it to be out. A
front-end alignment shouldn't be an expensive proposition.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Why not an alternator on the tailshaft of an ADC type series motor. It
could freewheel untill it was electrically kicked in? Technically possible.
Practical? I don't know. Lawrence Rhodes.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: Zilla controls backordered?
> Michael Trefry wrote:
> > Is there a difference between a Series Motor, a Series Wound Motor,
> > and a Series Brushed Motor?
>
> Not really; loosely speaking, they are all the same thing (a series
> wound DC motor). Technically, you can have AC series motors, and
> brushless series motors, and series motors without wound coils. But you
> won't see any of these motors in sizes appropriate for an on-the-road EV.
>
> > Maybe if someone could provide a product link for me to look at for
> > a motor that will work with the Zapi?
>
> Any series motor will work with the Zapi. But a motor with interpoles
> will allow/survive higher regen currents.
>
> If you want really large regen currents, use a surplus aircraft
> generator. They can happily produce 500-1000 amps (enough to lock the
> tires on dry pavement)!
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David Roden wrote:
On 1 Oct 2006 at 8:26, Roland Wiench wrote:
It is normal when some batteries get over 4 or more years, that the finish
voltage will be higher than when new.
Hmmm, I've never seen this. My finish voltage has always declined as the
batteries aged. Has anyone else ever seen a >rising< finish voltage as
batteries age, when all else is held equal? I wonder what would cause it.
I see the finish voltage go *up* on an old battery that has been
chronically overcharged to the point where its internal resistance has
gone up considerably. Such a battery has reasonable amphour capacity at
low load/charging currents, but at higher load/charging currents it acts
like you have a resistor in series with it. In other words, its voltage
sags badly under load, and it rises to a "finish" voltage far too soon.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I concur.
Don't assume the cord is live.
Don't assume the charger is turned on.
Use a switch on the door (or connector) to indicate 'a cord is attached'
rather than 'the charger is on.'
Also make sure that if someone opens the cover or the switch fails, the car
does not become disabled.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Farver" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 6:42 AM
Subject: Re: PFC-30 no-drive-away interlock
> Edward Ang wrote:
>
> >
> > On 10/2/06, Jake Oshins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >> So how do people usually wire up a PFC-30 so that you can't drive away
> >> while it's charging?
> >>
> Just don't... put a plunger or reed switch on the fuel door or whatever
> covers over the power inlet. Using the charger or AC voltage does not
> protect you if the cord is plugged in but no power is applied. (Blown
> breaker or GFCI, other end of the cord pulled from outlet, etc)
>
> Mark Farver
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee,
Do you mean a generator like Ebay Item 230023477406?
Most alternators I see are around 50Amp but this
starter/generator is 30V 200A and rated for 3000-8000 RPM.
NOTE that making it useful as regen unit requires that you
downshift, or it will be hard to stay above 3000 RPM....
The other pitfall is the 30V output, it may need to be
rewound to do anything useful with it at EV pack voltages.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 11:15 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Zilla controls backordered?
Why not an alternator on the tailshaft of an ADC type series motor. It
could freewheel untill it was electrically kicked in? Technically possible.
Practical? I don't know. Lawrence Rhodes.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: Zilla controls backordered?
> Michael Trefry wrote:
> > Is there a difference between a Series Motor, a Series Wound Motor,
> > and a Series Brushed Motor?
>
> Not really; loosely speaking, they are all the same thing (a series
> wound DC motor). Technically, you can have AC series motors, and
> brushless series motors, and series motors without wound coils. But you
> won't see any of these motors in sizes appropriate for an on-the-road EV.
>
> > Maybe if someone could provide a product link for me to look at for
> > a motor that will work with the Zapi?
>
> Any series motor will work with the Zapi. But a motor with interpoles
> will allow/survive higher regen currents.
>
> If you want really large regen currents, use a surplus aircraft
> generator. They can happily produce 500-1000 amps (enough to lock the
> tires on dry pavement)!
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Trefry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 2:06 PM
Subject: RE: Weight and range (Was: Re: Battery boxes)
> Ok, that's still terrible.
>
> What I was really looking for something to take me into the city when I
have
> an onsite consulting gig.
>
> Storrs to Hartford is 28 miles. 56 round trip. I was under the impression
Hi Mike;
Killingworth to New Haven is 26 miles , if I go directly, no stop at
Radio Crap, Blowes or Home Despot, If I do them I can be over 30. But I
cheated had a plugin at work. What's a few amps in a trainyard of electric
trains? I'm sure Amtrak hasn't seen a big dropoff in their electric bill
since I retired. My plugs are STILL there, looking fine!Just leaving the A/C
on in a lokie would be more than I swipe.But I built the Rabbit with 1200
lbs lead so I COULD get home if the plugs were ICEed or off, Power Failures
are common 'round here.I could run home on RT 80 rather than the Turnpike,
save a few amps, enjoy the bucolic countryside, no hurry coming home,
anyhow.Yeah! I beat the shit out of the batteries, only got about 2 years
out of a pack, would go flat out in or home and feel around for a hot one,
if found ; JUNK IT!Going flat out down the turnpike finds your stinkers
pretty quick! Not Rocket Science here!Did this gig for 6 years. My record
run was 101 miles, dinner date in Hartford, ran up RT 9 to 91 to I -84 to
East Hartford to meet an old Army buddy staying at the Holiday Inn. I found
an outlet on the bldg, plugged my Bad Boy in and charged at 10 amps for
about an hour. We went over to Burnside Ave to a Italian Restaurant, Weee!
ANOTHER Outside outlet!Plugged her in, cranked the variac, NO PFC yet turned
it up to 10 amps I figgered if I went louder I would trip the Circus
breaker, so 10 amps is better than 15 or more for a few minutes. I found
with the PFC -30 I could crank it up to 20amps and not worry. Back to the
story; We had dinner and were there for maybe hour an' a half. Drove back to
the Motel, dropped John off, and headed home. Granted I dogged it, kept the
amps below 100, and let ground speed take care of itself, did about 50 55,
hung in the rite lane, let the traffic blast by.I got home and had plenty of
juice left, strill 120 volts, so I drove around the home 20 and burned it
down to about 90 volts, and crept home, as 101 miles rolled up on the
Odometer.I probably could have gone another 10 miles? But I didn't want to
kill it into the ground.But it proved a point; If the car can snack a bit
during the trip. The old Chicken an' Egg thing. If they build it will they
come, IF outlets were common to be able to plugalong all day, Gees! Had I a
240 volt outlet at the two places I coulda done some REAL charging, not a
wimpy 10 amps!I could flown up an' back at 65mph or so.
OK That's MY story. Your miliage will vary! As ya learn to drive your EV
for miles, rather than tire smoke. Often wondered IF I had the Zombie, live,
here in CT could I have done my commute NOT doing Smokeshows?Oh, I'd rip of
a few to show off at work,watch me make a train hide away in smoke<g>! but
could plug in a PFC -50 it came with to MY 240 volt hookup. Car would be
nice and juicy when I got back from the train!
So build and learn, build the damn car and DRIVE it! If you aren't
pleased you can sell it off, and go back to ICE mobiles.I don't knoew
anybody here that has?
My two amps worth
Bob in Killingworth, not Killingly, there IS a differance!About 40 miles.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jack Murray wrote:
Does an 8" ADC motor have advanced timing to rotate in a specific
direction?
Yes. Neutral timing will show the same amount of arcing on the brushes
in either direction of rotation. When you advance the timing, you're
attempting to minimize the arcing in one direction (the direction that
makes your vehicle go forward), while the tradeoff is that arcing will
become worse in the other direction. Typically this is not a problem
because the "other direction" is reverse, and you won't be going fast
enough to have an arcing problem.
Is it easy to change it if it does?
Easy is relative =)
I don't want to mount this motor in the wrong way and find out it
needs to go on the other side..
Other side of ...? A motorcycle?
Jack
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi folks,
Just to avoid confusion, this is on the EV Tradin' Post, my
website. There is another website called the EV Trader that I do not
have any connection with. It primarily supports NEV sales.
Meanwhile the shortcut to the EV Tradin' Post is
http://evtradinpost.com As always, the EV Tradin' Post remains a free
service.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey
Webmaster
EV Tradin' Post
http://www.austinev.org/evtradinpost/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Check for dragging brakes by feeling the metal part of the wheel for
high temperature closest to the wheel center after a long drive. While
you checking see if you pick up a hot or slight burning smell.
Swap the front and rear tires and see if that helps. Sometimes a
tire's belts take a set and can cause them to pull one way.
Alignment. Tell the shop what the problem is and let them look for it.
Mike(Ex shop manager)
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Recently, I have found my range dropping, and noticed the truck
pulling to the
> right on the freeway - not so dramatic at lower speeds, but still
moves that
> way if you let go. I suppose this is something more than toe-in;
anyone have
> links to how to fix this without paying for someone more
mechanically minded to
> do it? It's a 2000 Ford Ranger EV - these use a 4x4 frame, but since
it doesn't
> have FWD, it probably uses a 2WD's steering assembly.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One of the projects that US Electricar didn't finish was having the
brake lights come on during regen. Regen on my truck is set to max and
it stops very quickly without the use of the brake pedal. So I'm
wondering if there is a circuit to be had that will allow them to be
activated on regen. The S10 that I have uses a relay to drive the tail
lights. So that part is done.
Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At the EAA Rally in Palo Alto I went to change the peak charge voltage
with the laptop. I had a hard fault that was listed as CP or charge
port. I have charged off of 208v before. But I could not access the cpu
because of the fault. In fact the data shown on the laptop was jumping
all over the place. Is it possible to still charge but have the wiring
we were plugged into be wrong? The fault has not returned and was only
seen for the first time in 2 years at this past Rally.
Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
i am interested in regen--mostly about learning, not doing. it seems
that interpoles are germane to understanding regen, yes?. where can i
find a better description of interpoles then this:
Interpoles
Interpoles are similar to the main field poles and located on the yoke
between the main field poles. They have windings in series with the
armature winding. Interpoles have the function of reducing the armature
reaction effect in the commutating zone. They eliminate the need to
shift the brush assembly.
i got this from
http://www.reliance.com/mtr/mtrthrmn.htm
specifically the phrase "reducing the armature reaction effect" just
does not mean anything to me...must have missed something. also, i
would like to know *why* they "eliminate the need to shift the brush
assembly."
any pointers would be appreciated. i'll keep reading...cool stuff!
regards,
mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sold as is, no implicit or implied warranty as gone on every bill of
sale I've ever had.
My lawyer girlfriend tells me about cases where people get fined for
lame cases and wasting the courts time. Sanctions they are called.
I totally agree that litigious society label is way over blown. Plus
most people getting sued hate taking responibility for their actions
so they whine.
I've learned that lawyers like Steve work way too damn hard for their
wages. Dating a lawyer made me glad that I picked the second highest
field that I tested for in school, to earn my living with instead of
the legal field. She works 50 hours just to bill 40. Lots of weekends.
I've completely stopped telling lawyer jokes.
My hat's off to you Steve.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Steve Kobb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> This evening, I saw a TV commercial that got my attention.
>
> The ad presented the services of a local law firm, and the
announcement went something like this:
>
> "Have you been hurt by a product defect? Have you or your family
experienced pain and suffering because of the negligence of a callous
and irresponsible manufacturer?
>
> Well, if you have, give us a call and tell us about it. If we think
you have a case, we'll sue the peewaddie out of those heartless bastards!"
>
> Now, in the past, I wouldn't even have paid attention to such a
pitch. Lately, however, I've had EVs on the brain, and I've even been
mulling over the idea of selling converted vehicles to other people...
maybe even for a profit.
>
> Seeing the law firm's commercial put me in a different state of
mind, however.
>
> Suddenly, I had visions of a disgruntled customer who only got 40
miles out of a charge instead of an anticipated 50. Or worse, a
wreck-survivor who blamed the accident on that "poorly-installed
controller" in his EV.
>
> You get the idea.
>
> So here's what I wondered: Has anyone developed a sales contract
that basically says --
> 1. This is experimental technology.
> 2. If you buy my converted EV, you acknowledge that the vehicle may
still have kinks, even though every effort has been made to create a
flawless installation.
>
> Does that boilerplate exist anywhere?
>
> My father used to say that "anyone with $25 in his pocket can file a
lawsuit", so I know that no contract can offer complete protection
against a product liability charge.
>
> Nevertheless -- I'm still hoping that the right kind of written
agreement would make a litigious client think twice before he
speed-dials his lawyer.
>
> Your comments are welcome.
>
> Steve Kobb
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You could use an inertial switch that would activate
when decelleration takes place.
storm
--- Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> One of the projects that US Electricar didn't finish
> was having the
> brake lights come on during regen. Regen on my truck
> is set to max and
> it stops very quickly without the use of the brake
> pedal. So I'm
> wondering if there is a circuit to be had that will
> allow them to be
> activated on regen. The S10 that I have uses a relay
> to drive the tail
> lights. So that part is done.
>
> Mike
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Some very hard working people just went before CARB again last week to
make the EV prespective known. I was told by a presenter that CARB
apologized for the way folks were treated at the last CARB hearing
years ago when they were killing the ZEV mandate.
There is light in that thar tunnel.
Mike
--- Death to All Spammers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Hi Curtis,
> >
> > On Oct 3, 2006, at 8:44 PM, Curtis Muhlestein wrote:
> >
> > > Dmitri & Death to All Spammers,
> > >
> > > See page 6 of the following document:
> > >
> http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/levprog/cleandoc/clean_2003_zev_tps.pdf
> >
> > I believe this is the infamous ZEV mandate, which produced the RAV4
> EV
> > and the EV1. The program was gutted by CARB in 2003 in response to
>
> > pressure from the car companies, allowing them to produce PZEVs, or
>
> > "partial zero-emission vehicles", instead of ZEVs. (I've always
> > wondered which part of zero they're talking about.) The movie "Who
>
> > Killed The Electric Car" is about what happened afterwards. Here's
> a
> > timeline:
> >
> > <http://evnut.com/dead_zev.htm>
> >
>
> Yeah, that's what happened; this is why EV1s started getting crushed
> soon after that - the auto companies got to use ULEV, SULEV and all
> those other "equivalents" for credit.
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I found that running the 11 Amps of heater element in my truck puts on enough
load that you can see a significant difference in
voltage on a low battery.
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Roger Stockton
> Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 8:57 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: RE: Big/unexpected voltage drop
>
>
> Chris & Patrick wrote:
>
> > At 11.2 miles of our 11.4 mile commute, as we were coming up
> > to the top of our final (moderate) incline, I noticed that
> > we seemed to be running slower than normal - and then that
> > our emeter was reading only 60 volts (pulling 210 amps at
> > 25-30 mph in 2nd gear).
>
> 60V on a 120V pack of AGMs is *really* bad!
>
> I have a very similar car, with 120V of [old] Optima YTs; I can sag them
> to perhaps 90V if I load them to my controller's limit of 450A near the
> end of my commute, and I consider that pretty bad.
>
> > The outside temperature was in the 50's today.
>
> The cooler temperatures will make your pack voltage sag more under load
> (and will reduce its capacity), but you might want to check your
> traction wiring to ensure all the connections are tight, just in case.
>
> You may have a battery on its way out, and will probably have to check
> each battery's voltage under load to find it. I believe I've got a
> battery out of line in my pack, but can't make a positive ID based on
> resting voltage: 9 of the 10 batteries are within the range 13.07-13.17
> and the outlier is 12.99v.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Roger.
>
>
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Ive resent the mail...
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Victor Tikhonov
Sent: 03 October 2006 19:51
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: question to victor
Robin,
Sorry, no emails from you. My ISP's spam filtering sometimes
plays nasty tricks and I don't get legitimate emails.
Rare, but happens. Try to replace ac@ with victor@ in my email
address - hopefully I'll get it.
Victor
Lawrie, Robin wrote:
> Just a quick one.. I tried to contact you off list regarding motor
> specs, your [EMAIL PROTECTED] address, but ive had no reply..did it
get
> through?
>
> Thanks..
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On the vacuum pump I took apart, the shaft that moved
the piston ran thru the vacuum side of the pump. There
is no way the pump would hold a vacuum when it wasn't
running.
storm
--- Phil Marino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
>
> >From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [email protected]
> >To: <[email protected]>
> >Subject: Re: Vacuum Reservoir
> >Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 21:13:35 -0600
> >
> >Hello John,
> >
> >Vacuum reservoirs uses a push in check value, the
> same type that is used on
> >the brake booster. This check valve is in the line
> between the tank and to
> >the brake vacuum system.
> >
> >Some vacuum pumps come with a built in check value,
> if not, than you have
> >to
> >install another one between the vacuum pump and the
> reservoir.
> >
> >If need to tap off the main vacuum line for other
> vacuum systems, you also
> >need to install check valves on these tap offs.
> >
> >The maximum draw down on my braking is from 22 to
> 16 in.hg. I can let it
> >set 24 hours and still have vacuum.
> >
> >Roland
> >
>
> I don't understand why a check valve is necessary if
> you use a vaccum
> reservoir. Exactly where is the valve? ( between
> reservoir and brake servo?
> between pump and reservoir?)
>
> It seems to me you could just tie everything ( pump,
> reservoir, brake servo)
> all together with tubing and it would work. Am I
> missing something?
>
> Phil
>
>
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>
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I my thinking was in line with Phil, but I know nothing about these
things.
Currently I have been testing my system in the basement with a 12v
power supply, Thomas pump and vacuum switch from EV parts, a bunch of
tubing (fuel line hose and plastic ice maker water line hose) brass
fittings (connected with teflon tape) and my 4in diameter PVC tube
with end caps. Note I do not currently have any check valves.
As I said before my first attempts were outright failures, where the
pump comes on ever 5 seconds.
Then I went with my rubber stopper as a grommet connection to the
reservoir and now the pump comes on for a second or so every minute. I
reversed the pump to be a compressor and my connections looked good
testing with soapy water. I had a little air leakage at my rubber
grommet but I thought the negative pressure of the vacuum would fix
that.
I think I'll be making another call to KTA for a check valve. I am
beginning to wonder if I could have saved myself a lot of stomach acid
by just buying the entire kit from them in the first place (pump,
reservoir, fittings switch check valve and tubing)
Oh well there is always the next EV.
John.
On Wednesday, October 4, 2006, at 12:13 AM, Phil Marino wrote:
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<snip>
Vacuum reservoirs uses a push in check value, the same type that is
used on
the brake booster. This check valve is in the line between the tank
and to
the brake vacuum system.
Some vacuum pumps come with a built in check value, if not, than you
have to
install another one between the vacuum pump and the reservoir.
<snip>
Roland
I don't understand why a check valve is necessary if you use a vaccum
reservoir. Exactly where is the valve? ( between reservoir and brake
servo? between pump and reservoir?)
It seems to me you could just tie everything ( pump, reservoir, brake
servo) all together with tubing and it would work. Am I missing
something?
Phil
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--- Begin Message ---
The list has provided a lot of good ideas for things to check. Any number of
them could cause
pulling and excess drag. I would like to add two points.
First, set tow in correctly. If you set your car for zero tow sitting in the
garage, you will
probably have positive or negative tow driving down the road (depending on
whether your car is
front or rear wheel drive.) The correct positive or negative tow will make your
tires run
correctly going down the road. The positive or negative adjustment is made when
your car is on the
rack. When the car is moving down the road this adjustment should net to zero
tow.
Second, caster adjustment will help your car track straight. With zero caster
your car will
wander. Too much caster and your car will be hard to turn. Caster is not a tire
wearing angle.
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Recently, I have found my range dropping, and noticed the truck pulling to the
> right on the freeway - not so dramatic at lower speeds, but still moves that
> way if you let go. I suppose this is something more than toe-in; anyone have
> links to how to fix this without paying for someone more mechanically minded
> to
> do it? It's a 2000 Ford Ranger EV - these use a 4x4 frame, but since it
> doesn't
> have FWD, it probably uses a 2WD's steering assembly.
>
>
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--- Joe Smalley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Use a switch on the door (or connector) to indicate 'a cord is attached'
> rather than 'the charger is on.'
>
> Also make sure that if someone opens the cover or the switch fails, the car
> does not become disabled.
>
If the switch prevents startup when the door is open, how does it not shut down
the controller if
it opens driving down the road? I'm asking this from the perspective of a Zilla
controller with
the door switch inline with the on/off switch. I would have guessed that the
door switch opening
is like turning off the ignition switch. Do you incoporate a relay somehow that
only gets
energized if the door is closed, but is self powering after that, not powered
through the switch?
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It may work with out check values if you use a constant running vacuum or as
a constant source from a engine. The commercial vacuum reservoirs come with
a attachment for a vacuum check value.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: Vacuum Reservoir
>
>
>
> >From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [email protected]
> >To: <[email protected]>
> >Subject: Re: Vacuum Reservoir
> >Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 21:13:35 -0600
> >
> >Hello John,
> >
> >Vacuum reservoirs uses a push in check value, the same type that is used
> >on
> >the brake booster. This check valve is in the line between the tank and
> >to
> >the brake vacuum system.
> >
> >Some vacuum pumps come with a built in check value, if not, than you have
> >to
> >install another one between the vacuum pump and the reservoir.
> >
> >If need to tap off the main vacuum line for other vacuum systems, you
> >also
> >need to install check valves on these tap offs.
> >
> >The maximum draw down on my braking is from 22 to 16 in.hg. I can let it
> >set 24 hours and still have vacuum.
> >
> >Roland
> >
>
> I don't understand why a check valve is necessary if you use a vaccum
> reservoir. Exactly where is the valve? ( between reservoir and brake
> servo?
> between pump and reservoir?)
>
> It seems to me you could just tie everything ( pump, reservoir, brake
> servo)
> all together with tubing and it would work. Am I missing something?
>
> Phil
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Express yourself - download free Windows Live Messenger themes!
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>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: ADC 8" inch rotation direction
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2006 22:33:19 -0700
Jack Murray wrote:
Does an 8" ADC motor have advanced timing to rotate in a specific
direction?
Yes. Neutral timing will show the same amount of arcing on the brushes in
either direction of rotation. When you advance the timing, you're
attempting to minimize the arcing in one direction (the direction that
makes your vehicle go forward), while the tradeoff is that arcing will
become worse in the other direction. Typically this is not a problem
because the "other direction" is reverse, and you won't be going fast
enough to have an arcing problem.
And, for those EV's that use the original transmission, the motor always
turns in the same direction (Just like the original ICE engine).
Phil
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--- Begin Message ---
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Vacuum Reservoir
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 07:06:48 -0600
It may work with out check values if you use a constant running vacuum or
as
a constant source from a engine. The commercial vacuum reservoirs come
with
a attachment for a vacuum check value.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: Vacuum Reservoir
>
>
>
> >From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [email protected]
> >To: <[email protected]>
> >Subject: Re: Vacuum Reservoir
> >Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2006 21:13:35 -0600
> >
> >Hello John,
> >
> >Vacuum reservoirs uses a push in check value, the same type that is
used
> >on
> >the brake booster. This check valve is in the line between the tank and
> >to
> >the brake vacuum system.
> >
> >Some vacuum pumps come with a built in check value, if not, than you
have
> >to
> >install another one between the vacuum pump and the reservoir.
> >
> >If need to tap off the main vacuum line for other vacuum systems, you
> >also
> >need to install check valves on these tap offs.
> >
> >The maximum draw down on my braking is from 22 to 16 in.hg. I can let
it
> >set 24 hours and still have vacuum.
> >
> >Roland
> >
>
> I don't understand why a check valve is necessary if you use a vaccum
> reservoir. Exactly where is the valve? ( between reservoir and brake
> servo?
> between pump and reservoir?)
>
> It seems to me you could just tie everything ( pump, reservoir, brake
> servo)
> all together with tubing and it would work. Am I missing something?
>
> Phil
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Express yourself - download free Windows Live Messenger themes!
>
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>
>
I'm using one of the old GM pumps. It works fine without a check valve.
So, it either already has one inside, or it just maintains vacuum anyway
when it's not running. With no reservoir (yet), no added check valves, and
hooked up directly to the brake booster, the vacuum is maintained ( with the
pump off) for about 15 minutes.
I plan to add a reservoir, though, because the pump comes back on after just
one brake pedal actuation. It wouldn't be a real problem, but it would be a
bit annoying; the pump is pretty loud.
Phil
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