EV Digest 6101
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Current bottleneck when charging floodies
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Pickup truck drag
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: speedometer replacement
by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: speedometer replacement
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Vicor DC-DC Converter
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Heaters
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: Heaters
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Input requested on heater assembly
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: Vicor DC-DC Converter
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: FS: Vicor DC-DC Converter
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Vicor DC-DC Converter
by Tony Furr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: FS: Vicor DC-DC Converter
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: IOTA DC/DC VOLTAGE LIMITS?
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: speedometer replacement
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: speedometer replacement
by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: Input requested on heater assembly
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Heaters
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
18) Re: speedometer replacement
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
19) Re: speedometer replacement
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Two Motor and Controller Setup
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Heaters
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Renewable Energy Idea
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
23) Re: Two Motor and Controller Setup
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Sources of ceramic heater elements?
by JS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: EV pusher Trailer
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
If the voltage and current both rise at the same time, there is a problem
with the charger. Not the batteries.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Bath" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 6:43 AM
Subject: Current bottleneck when charging floodies
> What does it mean when your charger is set for 17-20A;
> current knob about 175, and the batteries start
> tapering the current off to 7A for awhile (like at
> 158V on a 144V pack?
> Gradually the current and voltage both rise, but it's
> weird and never used to do this. Does it indicate
> aging batteries?
> Thanks,
>
> Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
> has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
> Learn more at:
> www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
> ____
> __/__|__\ __
> =D-------/ - - \
> 'O'-----'O'-'
> Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids?
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
________
> We have the perfect Group for you. Check out the handy changes to Yahoo!
Groups
> (http://groups.yahoo.com)
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The subject was misleading -- I'm starting with a Porsche. One reason I chose
it was it goes fast on low horsepower (as street legal production cars go,
anyway).
----- Original Message ----
From: Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Saturday, November 4, 2006 2:20:20 PM
Subject: RE: Pickup truck drag
David,
> I want my conversion to be very aerodynamic.
Then don't start with a pickup.
Use any modern family sedan and you will have
about twice as good aerodynamics (Cd) as a pickup
or choose a 2-seater that you like based on even
lower Cd, your choice.
If you want a pichup because you use it as a utility
vehicle (not to commute in to work with your briefcase)
then all you can do is check the aero mods that someone
posted some pictures of a while ago, including a
tapered bed cover and belly pan.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>> I instrumented my trike with a Sigma bicycle speedometer. Cost - $23
Brilliant!
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 11/4/2006 9:26:11 PM Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 8:40 PM
Subject: speedometer replacement
After tearing my dash board apart in 86 toyota pu, I
was wondering about the speedometer. It takes up lots
of space, and gives very little information.
Is there a ev replacement part that would snap into
place for the speed and odometer?
What options do I have?
I instrumented my trike with a Sigma bicycle speedometer. Cost - $23
dollars, delivered.
Uses a magnet pickup that clips to the spokes. I set the input once on set
up by calculating the circumference of the wheel involved. Runs off an
internal lithium battery that's supposed to be good for three years. Also tells
time, total miles, trip miles, speed, top speed achieved since it was last
cleared. I clear it each night as I plug the charger in. Allows easy KwH per
days' miles calculations.
Matt Parkhouse
Colorado Springs, CO
BMW m/c-Golf Cart trike - 48 volts, 30mph on the flat, 35 mile range
1.6 cents a mile
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roland,
I'm using an upgraded logi curtis 1209b.
So I emailed cyberdyne to see if their speed sensor
8901 will work with the toyota...
I wonder if that will also due the tach if not,
Any suggestions on the tach inputs?
--- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello Mike,
>
> Cyberdyne Electronic Instrumentation has a
> combination speedometer,
> tachometer, odometer and trip odometer in a 3-3/8
> diameter unit something
> like the Link 10 E-meter.
>
> It will display 0 to 999 mph, 10,000 rpm, million
> mile odometer and speed
> calibration. It normally takes off the ignition
> system of a 2,4,6 or 8
> cylinder engine to measure the rpm and then
> calibrate the speed according to
> the rpm.
>
> The speed sensor of a controller circuit can
> provided the data to a
> tachometer. My tachometer is a Stewart Warner that
> receives this data from
> the Zilla which in turn receives the rpm data from a
> motor rpm sender.
>
> The Cyberdyne unit may require a Cyberdyne speed
> sensor if your controller
> does not have a tach output circuit.
>
> Source is jegs.com
>
> Roland
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "mike golub" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 8:40 PM
> Subject: speedometer replacement
>
>
> > After tearing my dash board apart in 86 toyota pu,
> I
> > was wondering about the speedometer. It takes up
> lots
> > of space, and gives very little information.
> > Is there a ev replacement part that would snap
> into
> > place for the speed and odometer?
> > What options do I have?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
__________________________________________________________________________________________
> > Check out the New Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more
> powerful email and get
> > things done faster.
> > (http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailbeta)
> >
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
maybe the uc3906
http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/uc3906.pdf
I still can't believe it costs that much...
--- Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> ***This was sent over 24 hours ago and the***
> ***original still hasn't made it to the board***
> ***I see Tony already sold the unit***
>
> Sorry to hear this Tony. I hope you can find
> someone who wants that unit. You said you bought it
> surplus, is this some place on
> line? I wouldn't mind combing that location if you
> could send us a link.
>
> I just bought a Vicor V300A15T500BL 500 Watt maxi
> module. This unit has a low voltage cut out at 147V
> which should be OK for my
> 192V pack under normal driving conditions. For 192V
> pack voltage its hard to find a Vicor unit with
> Min/Max specs that fall
> within my operating range. I suspect that the unit
> to pick for 144V system would be a VI-272-EW (or -IW
> for -40* temperature
> rating for me). While this unit is kind of their
> only "dual range" unit with brownout ~ 90V and max
> input to 375V, it would work
> for my application but its only 100 Watt output. I
> need a little more than this.
>
> I've been watching e-bay but haven't really found a
> used Vicor unit that fit my bill. I just bought
> mine straight from Vicor.
> The V300A15T500BL I purchased was QTY 1 @ $293.
> They gave me quantity quotes for 25 @ $270 ea. and
> 100 @ $263 ea.
>
> I'm intending to call them back for quotes on the
> VI-272-EW to see how much running 5 parallel modules
> would cost. They have
> applications engineers that are happy to talk about
> how to set up and use their products. A person
> could probably use their help
> to design a perfect module or combination of modules
> to make a decent DC-DC for EV applications. Their
> Bat-Mod lines can also be
> set up with a crude charge algorithm. The
> application engineer I talked to however said if
> keeping the SLI battery in an EV
> properly maintained were a goal then it would be
> better to use their standard DC-DC module and
> control it with an outboard Texas
> Instruments chip that performs the charge control
> algorithm. I don't yet know what chip this is, but
> it should be easy to locate
> if one was so inclined.
>
> Mike,
> Anchorage, Ak.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Behalf Of Tony Furr
> > Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 11:42 PM
> > To: EV; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: FS: Vicor DC-DC Converter
> >
> >
> > I recently purchased a Vicor Megamod DC-DC
> converter (VI-26L-IU) from
> > surplus in hopes of using it with my 144v system.
> The sales spec
> > claimed "up to 300v", but the paperwork with the
> unit says the low-
> > line is 199v and a high-line of 399v (output
> voltage is 28v). A call
> > to Vicor support confirmed this won't work w/ my
> 144v system since it
> > will not power on below low-line.
> >
> > So it won't work for me, which is a shame because
> this is a nice
> > looking unit. It's new in the box and has never
> been installed. If
> > anyone is interested, contact me off-list. If
> you're looking for a
> > unit like this, you can get a great deal while
> helping me save the
> > 15% restocking fee they will charge me for the
> return.
> >
> > tony furr
> > 76 lancia scorpion EV
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business
(http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Can I generate heat when braking?
--- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Tom Gocze wrote:
> > Now that it is the heating season... It seems that
> a startup resistor
> > with the rectactor controller solves this problem
> without all the
> > hassle of lots of high cost silicon. Wouldn't it
> make sense for
> > someone to package a three step (24/48/96V) or
> perhaps 36/72/144V?)
> > system with a big starting resistor?
>
> That's an interesting idea. A starting resistor
> certainly can make a lot
> of heat if you keep it in the circuit. Probably a
> lot more than you want!
>
> But since it's an all-or-nothing device, you need
> some way to store the
> large peak heat, and meter it out gradually as
> needed. Perhaps you can
> put the resistor in a water tank, so it heats water.
> Then run the hot
> water through the heater core to gradually cool it
> off until the next
> time you engage the resistor.
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377,
> leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
__________________________________________________________________________________________
Check out the New Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things
done faster.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yup,
Just cut a hole in your floorboard and tie leather under your feet.
Flintstone invented it ages ago.
Seriously - what do you intend to heat and when?
Think about *when* you want the heat and then
consider the availability of heat from the
source you are considering.
Sure - brakes make a lot of heat.
But do you want to guide that (including the brake dust)
into your cabin?
Or are you considering regen to generate electricity to
convert into heat?
Are you OK with the added complexity and cost to add a
heater function that can be had for a few bucks worth
of ceramic heater core?
Do you brake more often when it's cold?
Are you OK freezing on the freeway coasting at constant speed?
Just some thoughts,
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of mike golub
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 12:47 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Heaters
Can I generate heat when braking?
--- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Tom Gocze wrote:
> > Now that it is the heating season... It seems that
> a startup resistor
> > with the rectactor controller solves this problem
> without all the
> > hassle of lots of high cost silicon. Wouldn't it
> make sense for
> > someone to package a three step (24/48/96V) or
> perhaps 36/72/144V?)
> > system with a big starting resistor?
>
> That's an interesting idea. A starting resistor
> certainly can make a lot
> of heat if you keep it in the circuit. Probably a
> lot more than you want!
>
> But since it's an all-or-nothing device, you need
> some way to store the
> large peak heat, and meter it out gradually as
> needed. Perhaps you can
> put the resistor in a water tank, so it heats water.
> Then run the hot
> water through the heater core to gradually cool it
> off until the next
> time you engage the resistor.
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377,
> leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
______________
Check out the New Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things
done faster.
(http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailbeta)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee wrote:
> One concern I have is that the blower is a PM motor;
> that means it also works fine as a generator. When
> you cut power to it, it takes a while to spin down.
> During this time, it *generates* power. This power
> will hold your heater relay on. The relay will
> s-l-o-w-l-y drop out as the fans spins down. This
> causes an excessively slow turnoff time; the relay
> contacts will burn and arc, and can fail shorted.
> If this happens, nothing will turn the heater off.
So, use two separate contacts, cutting power to the
relay independent from the fan's generated voltage?
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That looks like to the chip to use. The guy at Vicor said it could be used to
bias the control pins on their VI-2XX modules. I
haven't priced those modules in bulk, but the lower power modules should be
less expensive. I predict youd could probably run up
a several hundred $$ tab building up one (with several smaller VI-2XX modules)
to handle the power of the V300A15 Maxi Module.
The down side to running without the control as Lee alluded to is that there is
no control on the output current as the input
voltage sags. In my case the V300A15 module can put out ~40A and I will only be
pulling ~18A with headlights, heater fan and
accessories.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of mike golub
> Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 11:42 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: RE: Vicor DC-DC Converter
>
>
> maybe the uc3906
>
> http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/uc3906.pdf
>
> I still can't believe it costs that much...
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee,
I am under the impression these modules are not constant power devices. So the
first part of your statement below seems correct,
if the input voltage is reduced the output power will be reduced. However if
it is not a constant power device then why does the
input current go up if the input voltage goes down. If this though, is in fact
the case it seems like they protect the units from
this by having the low voltage cut. Why would you advise defeating that safety.
Along that same line, not being a constant power device why does the output
current go up if the input voltage goes down. I
thought that if your input power (I and E) drops and your output voltage is
driven to a fixed value then the output current would
sag along with the input voltage. I know you didn't mean to imply this but it
sounds like from the last part of your comment that
using a lower current rated fuse will limit the output current to a safe level.
Technically you are correct in that when the fuse
blows and shuts off the output, 0 amps is a safe level :-)
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
>Lee Hart wrote:
>
> However, it can't deliver its rated power output at reduced input
> voltage. As the input voltage falls, the input current goes up to
> compensate. If you try to get full power at reduced input voltage, the
> module will overheat and fail.
>
> So, Vicor includes a little circuit to sense the input voltage, and
> disable the modules if it is too low. You can find and defeat this
> circuit if you like. Basically, you cut the wire to the "Gate In" pin of
> the master control module.
>
> Now the modules will work with your 144vdc pack; but they can burn up if
> you ask them to deliver too much current. To prevent this, use a lower
> current fuse or circuit breaker in the output. A safe value for this
> fuse or breaker is 1/2 the normal rated current for that module.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
After further conversation with Cor, I've noticed that the unit I
have is a VI-N6L-IM.
Same voltage range and output, but higher wattage.
Here's a link to Vicors Megamod spec pdf:
http://www.vicorpower.com/documents/datasheets/ds_megamod.pdf
The surplus store where I found these is:
http://weirdstuff.com/
and here's the converter (they still have 9 left):
http://www.weirdstuff.com/cgi-bin/item/22054
They also have a showroom in Sunnyvale that looks like an electronic
junkie's heaven.
tony
On Nov 4, 2006, at 9:38 PM, Mike Willmon wrote:
***This was sent over 24 hours ago and the***
***original still hasn't made it to the board***
***I see Tony already sold the unit***
Sorry to hear this Tony. I hope you can find someone who wants
that unit. You said you bought it surplus, is this some place on
line? I wouldn't mind combing that location if you could send us a
link.
I just bought a Vicor V300A15T500BL 500 Watt maxi module. This
unit has a low voltage cut out at 147V which should be OK for my
192V pack under normal driving conditions. For 192V pack voltage
its hard to find a Vicor unit with Min/Max specs that fall
within my operating range. I suspect that the unit to pick for
144V system would be a VI-272-EW (or -IW for -40* temperature
rating for me). While this unit is kind of their only "dual range"
unit with brownout ~ 90V and max input to 375V, it would work
for my application but its only 100 Watt output. I need a little
more than this.
I've been watching e-bay but haven't really found a used Vicor unit
that fit my bill. I just bought mine straight from Vicor.
The V300A15T500BL I purchased was QTY 1 @ $293. They gave me
quantity quotes for 25 @ $270 ea. and 100 @ $263 ea.
I'm intending to call them back for quotes on the VI-272-EW to see
how much running 5 parallel modules would cost. They have
applications engineers that are happy to talk about how to set up
and use their products. A person could probably use their help
to design a perfect module or combination of modules to make a
decent DC-DC for EV applications. Their Bat-Mod lines can also be
set up with a crude charge algorithm. The application engineer I
talked to however said if keeping the SLI battery in an EV
properly maintained were a goal then it would be better to use
their standard DC-DC module and control it with an outboard Texas
Instruments chip that performs the charge control algorithm. I
don't yet know what chip this is, but it should be easy to locate
if one was so inclined.
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:owner-
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Tony Furr
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 11:42 PM
To: EV; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: FS: Vicor DC-DC Converter
I recently purchased a Vicor Megamod DC-DC converter (VI-26L-IU) from
surplus in hopes of using it with my 144v system. The sales spec
claimed "up to 300v", but the paperwork with the unit says the low-
line is 199v and a high-line of 399v (output voltage is 28v). A call
to Vicor support confirmed this won't work w/ my 144v system since it
will not power on below low-line.
So it won't work for me, which is a shame because this is a nice
looking unit. It's new in the box and has never been installed. If
anyone is interested, contact me off-list. If you're looking for a
unit like this, you can get a great deal while helping me save the
15% restocking fee they will charge me for the return.
tony furr
76 lancia scorpion EV
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee,
Do you know if the 26L module (300V in 28V nominal out)
when turned down to 14V out delivers twice the current
so still delivers the rated 200W or does it stay at the
7A or so that it can deliver at 28V?
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Lee Hart
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 10:11 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: FS: Vicor DC-DC Converter
Tony Furr wrote:
> The problem is not the output voltage, which could be reduced. It's the
> input voltage bottom end. At a low-line of 200vdc, my 144v car won't
> start the DC-DC converter.
The internal Vicor DC/DC modules themselves will actually work below
their rated voltage. For instance, a 300vdc nominal module is rated to
work at 200-400vdc, but will actually start working at about 120-140vdc.
However, it can't deliver its rated power output at reduced input
voltage. As the input voltage falls, the input current goes up to
compensate. If you try to get full power at reduced input voltage, the
module will overheat and fail.
So, Vicor includes a little circuit to sense the input voltage, and
disable the modules if it is too low. You can find and defeat this
circuit if you like. Basically, you cut the wire to the "Gate In" pin of
the master control module.
Now the modules will work with your 144vdc pack; but they can burn up if
you ask them to deliver too much current. To prevent this, use a lower
current fuse or circuit breaker in the output. A safe value for this
fuse or breaker is 1/2 the normal rated current for that module.
Or, you can trim the output voltage down so it never tries to deliver
full power. The ones you have are apparently rated for 14v to 30.8v; if
adjusted to 14v, it should never deliver more than half its rated power
anyway.
If you got a good price on the unit and like it, I'd defeat the
undervoltage shutdown, and adjust the output down to 14v, and try it on
your 144v pack. Measure the baseplate temperature; if it gets too hot to
comfortably leave your hand on, then you need to further reduce the
output power with a lower-rated fuse or circuit breaker as described
above. Good luck!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It would be borderline, as the DC voltage corresponding to 120VAC is about
170VDC. I would contact Iota engeneering with that question. They seem
knowledgable, although it takes them a while to respond. Give them your
absolute max/min voltage ranges and ask if the 120 or 220 model will be a
better choice.
David Brandt
----- Original Message ----
From: MARK DUTKO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Friday, November 3, 2006 6:20:37 PM
Subject: Re: IOTA DC/DC VOLTAGE LIMITS?
Thanks- do you know what its min voltage is? My pack is 192v, do you
think the 120V model could be used up to 204?
M
On Nov 3, 2006, at 2:56 PM, David Brandt wrote:
> The 220V model does work on DC. I'm running a 228V pack and others
> are running higher voltages. One recently confirmed it worked
> while charging to 354V, IIRC.
>
>
>
>
>
> David Brandt
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: MARK DUTKO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Sent: Friday, November 3, 2006 4:36:23 PM
> Subject: IOTA DC/DC VOLTAGE LIMITS?
>
>
> I'm looking for a dc/dc for the Yaris that is high amperage and was
> wondering if anyone has used the IOTA product with a higher voltage
> pack?
>
> My pack will be 192-204V and the IOTA 55 or 75A AC/DC specs are as
> follows:
>
> 108-132V model- can go to 180V DC as per Iota sales
>
> 220-240V model (55A MAX) - Not know yet by Iota as to how far outside
> the range or if DC can be used
>
> Has anyone used the 108 model with a high pack voltage or the 220
> model with a 192 or lower pack voltage with any success?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Mark
>
> http://www.iotaengineering.com/dls22055.htm
>
> http://www.iotaengineering.com/dls75.htm
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Mike,
Jeg's also have tach adapters in either 12v pulse or magnetic input using 4
magnets on a wheel that attaches to a damper wheel.
I made my own magnetic wheel that is 3.5 inches in diameter with four 1/4
inch diameter neo magnets place at 90 degrees apart at a 2.75 inch circle
that was clamp around the accessory drive shaft that is power by the motor
pilot shaft. The magnets and sender came from Café Electric for the Zilla
controller.
At EV Parts Com they have a clamp on magnetic sender and tach if you just
want tach only.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "mike golub" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 1:20 AM
Subject: Re: speedometer replacement
> Roland,
>
> I'm using an upgraded logi curtis 1209b.
> So I emailed cyberdyne to see if their speed sensor
> 8901 will work with the toyota...
> I wonder if that will also due the tach if not,
> Any suggestions on the tach inputs?
>
> --- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Hello Mike,
> >
> > Cyberdyne Electronic Instrumentation has a
> > combination speedometer,
> > tachometer, odometer and trip odometer in a 3-3/8
> > diameter unit something
> > like the Link 10 E-meter.
> >
> > It will display 0 to 999 mph, 10,000 rpm, million
> > mile odometer and speed
> > calibration. It normally takes off the ignition
> > system of a 2,4,6 or 8
> > cylinder engine to measure the rpm and then
> > calibrate the speed according to
> > the rpm.
> >
> > The speed sensor of a controller circuit can
> > provided the data to a
> > tachometer. My tachometer is a Stewart Warner that
> > receives this data from
> > the Zilla which in turn receives the rpm data from a
> > motor rpm sender.
> >
> > The Cyberdyne unit may require a Cyberdyne speed
> > sensor if your controller
> > does not have a tach output circuit.
> >
> > Source is jegs.com
> >
> > Roland
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "mike golub" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> > Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 8:40 PM
> > Subject: speedometer replacement
> >
> >
> > > After tearing my dash board apart in 86 toyota pu,
> > I
> > > was wondering about the speedometer. It takes up
> > lots
> > > of space, and gives very little information.
> > > Is there a ev replacement part that would snap
> > into
> > > place for the speed and odometer?
> > > What options do I have?
> > >
> > > thanks
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> __________________________________________________________________________________________
> > > Check out the New Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more
> > powerful email and get
> > > things done faster.
> > > (http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailbeta)
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> We have the perfect Group for you. Check out the handy changes to Yahoo!
> Groups
> (http://groups.yahoo.com)
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: speedometer replacement
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2006 21:25:17 -0700
Hello Mike,
Cyberdyne Electronic Instrumentation has a combination speedometer,
tachometer, odometer and trip odometer in a 3-3/8 diameter unit something
like the Link 10 E-meter.
It will display 0 to 999 mph, 10,000 rpm, million mile odometer and speed
calibration. It normally takes off the ignition system of a 2,4,6 or 8
cylinder engine to measure the rpm and then calibrate the speed according
to
the rpm.
It also needs a sensor to measure vehicle speed directly, doesn't it?
Otherwise engine speed alone won't tell you how fast the car is moving,
unless you have a single gear setup.
Or, it could work if somehow the speedometer knew what gear ( including
neutral) the car was in.
Phil
_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch with old friends and meet new ones with Windows Live Spaces
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Lee wrote:
> > One concern I have is that the blower is a PM motor;
> > that means it also works fine as a generator. When
> > you cut power to it, it takes a while to spin down.
> > During this time, it *generates* power.
Non-EE question: How does power generated on the CONTROLLED circuit of a relay
affect the
CONTROLLING circuit? If you cut power to the solenoid of the relay, how does
the fan(generator)
keep the solenoid engaged? Or am I overlooking something obvious?
I'm about to build my heater circuit and was thinking of doing the same thing.
I don't want to
create a problem, if it's avoidable.
Thanks
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 11/5/2006 2:13:11 AM Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Are you OK freezing on the freeway coasting at constant speed?
Just some thoughts,>>>>
As the builder of Sparky, the Manitou High School project EV VW bug states
in the EVAlbum:
"Heater: Hat, coat and gloves"....
After a few decades of riding motorcycles in Colorado year 'round, that is
downright comfortable!
Matt Parkhouse
Colorado Springs, CO
BMW m/c-Golf Cart trike - 48 volts, 30mph on the flat, 35 mile range
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 11/4/2006 11:17:09 PM Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>> I instrumented my trike with a Sigma bicycle speedometer. Cost - $23
Brilliant!
The Sigma speedo fix is a common "bodge" for us with our old BMWs - to
rebuild an all-too-common blown up speedometer costs $300 "and up"....
Matt Parkhouse
Colorado Springs, CO
BMW m/c-Golf Cart trike - 48 volts, 30mph on the flat, 35 mile range
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Phil,
I have a simular type of unit on my Manta Mirage. It's a Holly unit that
takes off the on off pulse of a switch driven by the motor and another
sensor that is mounted after the transmission.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 8:18 AM
Subject: Re: speedometer replacement
>
>
>
> >From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> >To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> >Subject: Re: speedometer replacement
> >Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2006 21:25:17 -0700
> >
> >Hello Mike,
> >
> >Cyberdyne Electronic Instrumentation has a combination speedometer,
> >tachometer, odometer and trip odometer in a 3-3/8 diameter unit something
> >like the Link 10 E-meter.
> >
> >It will display 0 to 999 mph, 10,000 rpm, million mile odometer and speed
> >calibration. It normally takes off the ignition system of a 2,4,6 or 8
> >cylinder engine to measure the rpm and then calibrate the speed according
> >to
> >the rpm.
>
> It also needs a sensor to measure vehicle speed directly, doesn't it?
> Otherwise engine speed alone won't tell you how fast the car is moving,
> unless you have a single gear setup.
>
> Or, it could work if somehow the speedometer knew what gear ( including
> neutral) the car was in.
>
> Phil
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Stay in touch with old friends and meet new ones with Windows Live Spaces
> http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp0070000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx&mkt=en-us
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was just remembering Lee's email saying that a larger motor is usually more
efficient than a smaller one...
Would it be cheaper and more efficient, if the space allows, to substitute an
11" motor for 2 8" motors. Diameter wise 2 8" motors are a lot larger, and the
length of an 8" is about 18" shaft end to shaft end. Looking at the drawing on
NetGains website it looks like the 11" is about 21" end to end. Price wise the
8's are about 1400, and the 11 about 3000. But when you figure in all the alum
and machining needed, I would think that the singe 11" would be cheaper. The
netgain bolt holes are the same as on a ADC 9" so standard adapters can be used.
It would require a larger battery pack. How much larger?
Just a thought...
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weathers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: Two Motor and Controller Setup
> Whoops, I linked to the thumbnail. Here's the big people version:
>
> <http://www.nedra.com/photos/pso04/silverbullet_motors_640.jpg>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: Heaters
>
> In a message dated 11/5/2006 2:13:11 AM Mountain Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> Are you OK freezing on the freeway coasting at constant speed?
> Just some thoughts,>>>>
It would cook me if I used it as a heater. Anyway, the resistor was so
large, that I could not install it inside the EV.
When I pick up my EV call Transformer I from Troy, Michingan, they gave me a
lot of parts to experiment on here in Montana. I had to hang this resistor
which is large as a car radiator of over 100KW and 0.5 ohm.
I drove a very steep long hill that had to be over 30 degrees. To get up
this hill, I would roller coast the EV to up to 70 mph which would keep the
motor ampere below 600 amps. Coming down this hill without REGEN braking,
this EV a 7850 lbs at the time would get up to 85 mph and have a run out of
another 2 miles and still would be doing 50 mph at my exit.
Now with the resistor switch into the circuit, the resistor turn red hot and
I still did about 80 mph down the hill and was still doing 35 mph at the
exit.
This did not help at all which would become very dangerous in the winter
time, when this hill become glare ice.
So I install A GMC accessory unit which is mounted on a aluminum plate which
normally bolts on to a GMC diesel engine. This is driven off the pilot
shaft of the motor.
One unit that is driven with this accessory drive is a Delco
alternator-inverter unit that supplies up to 7 KW of 120 volts 60 HZ. Now
when I come down this hill, I have the inverter unit running three heater
units at 2.4 kw, power steering, two water pumps, a power steering unit,
vacuum pump and even a A/C unit if its gets too hot, the EV will maintain
speed and not increase it.
The worst car I had coming down this hill was a VW bug, which would actually
slow down this hill and would have to give its some gas to keep up the speed
because it had a very low axle ratio.
Roland
>
>
>
> As the builder of Sparky, the Manitou High School project EV VW bug states
> in the EVAlbum:
> "Heater: Hat, coat and gloves"....
> After a few decades of riding motorcycles in Colorado year 'round, that is
> downright comfortable!
>
> Matt Parkhouse
> Colorado Springs, CO
> BMW m/c-Golf Cart trike - 48 volts, 30mph on the flat, 35 mile range
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Heard this on NPR yesterday. I can't fault the thinking....
What about enabling gov't-backed MORTGAGE-Style loans for renewable
home-based systems. With, say a 20 year loan, putting a full tilt
photovoltaic "run
the meter backwards" system for $20,000 would be cost neutral - the monthly
system payment would probably be equal to or less than the money otherwise
spent for the unequipped home utility bill. It sure would here in
250-sunny-day-a-year Colorado.
We are going to spend a LOT of Gov't funds in the energy area anyway, why
not use some of them on promotion of this decentralized input to the grid.
It would put a lot of people to work, reduce emmissions, and go a little way
to reduce the drive to continue getting "our oil from underneith their
sand".....
That damn EV trike may well be one of those "life-changing events". Thanks
to it (and you guys on this List), I'm now shooting for a "real" four-wheeled
EV AND a full system on the roof by my "Social Security date" - 2015.
Matt Parkhouse
Colorado Springs, CO
BMW m/c-Golf Cart trike - 48 volts, 30mph on the flat, 35 mile range, 500+
miles now - last purchased gas Sept 21
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Rush,
I run both the Warp 9 and a GE 11 in my EV, but not at the same time. The
Warp 9 is a standby while GE 11 is in maintenance.
I am using the same battery pack for both of these motors, 30 each Trojan 6V
T-145's 260 AH.
The 11 allows me to pull more torque at about half the rpm of the 9. At 40
mph, my motor amps is about 200 amps with the 9, while with the 11 its 180
amps at 60 mph.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: Two Motor and Controller Setup
> I was just remembering Lee's email saying that a larger motor is usually
> more efficient than a smaller one...
>
> Would it be cheaper and more efficient, if the space allows, to substitute
> an 11" motor for 2 8" motors. Diameter wise 2 8" motors are a lot larger,
> and the length of an 8" is about 18" shaft end to shaft end. Looking at
> the drawing on NetGains website it looks like the 11" is about 21" end to
> end. Price wise the 8's are about 1400, and the 11 about 3000. But when
> you figure in all the alum and machining needed, I would think that the
> singe 11" would be cheaper. The netgain bolt holes are the same as on a
> ADC 9" so standard adapters can be used.
>
> It would require a larger battery pack. How much larger?
>
> Just a thought...
>
> Rush
> Tucson AZ
> www.ironandwood.org
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Weathers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 12:10 PM
> Subject: Re: Two Motor and Controller Setup
>
>
> > Whoops, I linked to the thumbnail. Here's the big people version:
> >
> > <http://www.nedra.com/photos/pso04/silverbullet_motors_640.jpg>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It has not been below freezing in a few years in Southern California,
But I would like to preheat my conversion before taking my
granddaughter to school. I prefer 220v, but can use 120v AC or DC.
Where is a source of ceramic heater elements?
John, in Sylmar, CA
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> neutral. The pusher currently has no brakes, but I am planning to
> put them on. It is light enough to not legally require them, but I
> would feel safer to include them. The plan is to add a surge brake
> couple designed for hydraulic disc brakes, and then couple that to
> the stock Honda front discs. A solenoid valve, the kind used on boat
> trailers to allow them to back up, will be wired through a relay to
> the brake lights. Basically, the valve will be closed preventing the
> brakes from applying, unless the brake lights are on. This will
> allow the pusher to push without triggering the brakes.
Hmm, won't that put a lot of pressure on the valve? Seems to me that
backing up a trailer will have much less force on the surge cylinder than
pushing a vehicle down the road at highway speeds. Will the valve survive
this? If it does, will it be able to open with that much pressure on it?
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
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--- End Message ---
