EV Digest 6208

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) Re: A different kind of EV video :)
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) RE: EV Diagram Update
        by Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: A different kind of EV video :)
        by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: Wrong motor direction for Joe Sixpack Geo Metro EV
        by "Darin - MetroMPG.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Re: VW jetta 1986 & electro automotive kit
        by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Re: A different kind of EV video :)
        by nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re: A John Wayland update
        by nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) Belktronix?
        by "Andrew A." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Re: Belktronix?
        by MARK DUTKO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) article comparing efficiencies of battery and FC evs. Nice simple chart.
        by "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) RE: Belktronix?
        by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) Re: Electric Car Motor on Google
        by "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Re: Electric Car Motor on Google
        by "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Re: Determining the value of some AC motors / controllers RFE
        by "Sean Korb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: Belktronix?
        by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: Determining the value of some AC motors / controllers RFE
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 17) ceramic heater short
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 18) Re: ceramic heater short
        by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) =?iso-8859-1?Q?RE:_Load_testing_methods?=
        by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) China e-scoot passes wow test
        by Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) RE: Acceleration Sim Problem
        by "Alan Gideon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) RE: Load testing methods
        by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 23) Re: Load testing methods
        by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 24) I need to find someone to ship my EV from Provo, UT to Atlanta, GA
        by Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 25) Re: Belktronix?
        by "Andrew A." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 26) Re: China e-scoot passes wow test
        by Paul Wujek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 27) Adjustable battery racks
        by "Tim Gamber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 28) Re: China e-scoot passes wow test
        by "Tim Gamber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Loved it.  Good job.  Lawrence Rhodes.....
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dana Havranek" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: A different kind of EV video :)


> Really nice, Nikki!
> Enjoyed your video.
> Dana
> 
>  -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Hi everyone,
> > 
> > I've just uploaded a video which I made earlier on Saturday showing  
> > off my little one-seat EV.
> > 
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a399fIxp9-E
> > 
> > Comments are welcome - it's designed to be a non-EV enthusiast's EV  
> > report :)
> > 
> > 
> > Nikki.
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________
> > Old car? New tricks?
> > Visit aminorjourney.com to see the transformation from Hebe to EV.
> > 
> > E-minor isn't just a key any more...
> > _______________________________
> > 
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi John, I just wonder if there is a way you can get away with a single
shunt.  Less resistance the better.  To others out there, can an emeter
share a shunt with another meter without giving incorrect readings?

Don




Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
 
see the New Beetle EV project   www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
 
---------------------------------------------------
"It is not the critic who counts: not the man who points out how the strong
man stumbles or where the doer of deeds could have done better. The credit
belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by
dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes up short
again and again, because there is no effort without error or shortcoming,
but who knows the great enthusiasms, the great devotions, who spends himself
for a worthy cause; who, at the best, knows, in the end, the triumph of high
achievement, and who, at the worst, if he fails, at least he fails while
daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid
souls who knew neither victory nor defeat." - Teddy Roosevelt


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of John
Sent: December 11, 2006 6:54 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: EV Diagram Update

I put Version 3 of my schematic with disclosure on my "webpage". (i use that
term loosely)

http://webpages.charter.net/belchertownev/

I made some changes based on the following off list recommendations:

+ I suggest a snubber diode across the vacuum pump motor, and also a
small diode on the pump relay.
+ If your battery shunt is running a emeter, then it should be the
absolute first thing after the negative HV battery terminal.
+ I would also wire the circuit breaker on the battery side of the
DC-DC and Heater for safety. (This was based on version 1 of the diagram
that had the breaker between Traction most negative and the contactor. Does
having the breaker mid-pack address this suggestion?)
+ In general I also like to see an Anderson connector first thing after
the battery (except for any emeter connections) in order to allow for
disconnection of both battery leads to avoid shocks from leaks to ground
when you are working on the high voltage loads.

Based on these suggestions I have added diodes across the vacuum pump and
pump relay. I also showed some Anderson connectors and put the charger
negative lead directly to the battery loop shunt, and moved all my high
voltage negative connections to the Zilla Battery negative.

Those in the know please point out any problems I have introduced.

Also, if anyone with a permanent web site believes there is merit in hosting
my final version that would be welcomed. My web page is not likely to be
maintained, and some on the list seem to find the diagram helpful.

I've also managed to do some actual work on my conversion, I put the motor
and transmission in over the weekend. Now that its getting cold here in
Western Mass, I wish I had finished this project while it was warm.

John O'Connor

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, I'm sold!  Where's the dealer?  ;-)

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You know, that was one of the first thoughts that crossed my mind.

If we didn't have an ICE-less Metro with a valid safety certificate sitting on jack stands in the garage... :)

Darin

Jack Murray wrote:
As I understand it, the Honda motors spin opposite the rest, so perhaps just get a Honda CRX to convert?

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
  Hi Michele;

    Yeah! I'm doing a 88 Jetta, to replace my wrecked Rabbit, 82. First
thing I noticed was that the Rabbit motor /bell housing plate matched just
fine! Good Start! Now making a bracket on the front of the motor, the brush
end, with the extra shaft, to drive the power stearing and Vacuum pump. I
have one belt wrapped around both V belt pulleys. Car came with PS so I
figgured it can just stay. The Vacuum pump was off a Diseasel Rabbit, should
be enough for a Jetta Power Brake?Looks like I can easily put a row of 5
batteries across between the two frame members. Do ing all the other stuff,
like plumbing , head lite buckets, and locating belt run stuff BEFORE
welding in battery racks!

   All my stuff is home spun, no kits. The space up front looks like I can
easily put one more battery over the origional engine mount. Had to make a
NEW one welded to the frame rail, RS to hold up the motor, same setup I used
in the Rabbit.So I'll have 6 batteries in front. Looking to put the OTHER 14
in back, in the trunk. Havent sized it up yet, but I'm looking forward to NO
bastteries in the Passenger Cabin,like the Rabbit. I THINK I can stuff them
in the trunk dropped down below the frame rails?The Jetta is a bit bigger
than the Rabbit, for sure as it FILLS the garage!The Shorter Rabbit left
plenty of room for garage projects!

    Somebody ELSE was asking about good doner cars? The Rabbit is a good
bet. Especially the two door, a bit lighter. The Hatchback design is sure
useful!! Can carry stuff home from Home Despot, make dump runs, carry
lawnmowers in back or Bikes.AFTER ya cover up the batteries!Rabbits here on
the Least Coast are about as common as Ladas , Trabants, Isettas, and Red
Flags! They all came with Rust-O-Matic from the factory, and have gone to
the Great Junkyard in the Sky! But the rest of the country, that doesn't
have weather, they are still out there.One nice thing about VW's is parts
swap ability. Had Jetta rear brake drums on the Rabbit, a bolt on deal. The
6 cylinder Jetta has stronger springs, my VW Garu assured me, as I KNOW it
is gunna be on the blocks with stock coils!The Rabbit rears I used were from
a BMW 526 sedan, A lucky Bolt On deal, again!Cheated had Coil Spring
Specialities of St Mary's Kansas wind me. Judst TELL them how much more
weight yur gunna ad and they will make ya some!Cheap, about 60 bux.For a
Rabbit front set.

    So the Jetta is a learning curve for me, too. Stay Tuned.I just want it
up an' going, as my daily driver. As was the Rabbit.

      Seeya

      Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michele McGeoy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 6:04 PM
Subject: VW jetta 1986 & electro automotive kit


> I am about to start a conversion of a 1986 VW jetta using the Electro
> Automotive Light Vehicle Manual Transmission Kit.
>
> Has anyone converted a Jetta? Anyone used this kit?
>
> Looking for general advice at this point.
>
> Thanks, Michele
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.15/581 - Release Date: 12/9/06
>
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hehe.

Well, perhaps you should get one in the US?

:)

Nikki.


DC [EMAIL 
PROTECTED])¢Ë\¢{ZŠ{~ŠÛ‰×^žg¬±¨~ŠæjÛ.r¬jv­µ§!y×â•æ¯qªÝ3~ŠæjÛbžâ²Û¶Èì¹çn¢yriǦÓ˃StÈ*.®š,¶)à±Ø¬¦V²¶¬™ë,j²¢êæj)i®ˆ+jh¬ž‹lzÛh±éÝ<°51LãKa©Ýç±§cºËbž
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From: nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: A John Wayland update
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 13:11:07 +0000
To: [email protected]

Yeah John,

Hope Cheryl's good soon. Hospitals are not nice places (Just tell her  
to not ride around in those electric bedchairs ;) )

Nikki.

_______________________________
Old car? New tricks?
Visit aminorjourney.com to see the transformation from Hebe to EV.

E-minor isn't just a key any more...
_______________________________


On 12 Dec 2006, at 03:34, Jim Husted wrote:

> Hey all
>
> I got a call from John today (well actually I called
> him first, but anyway)  When he called me back he told
> me his wife Cheryl had taken a bad spill and in fact
> he was calling from the hospital.  I just thought
> there would be plenty of people here that would want
> to know and for EVeryone to send a little prayer or
> well wish their way.  Hope you're not pissed at me
> John for spilling my guts to the world(hey you can
> kick my ass later) but Cheryl's every bit an EV'er as
> anyone here.
>
> Anyway (John) you let her know the Husted family sends
> our love and hope she's back to new real soon.
> BTW SEE she told you to pick up that damn E-scooter!!!
>
> Cya all
> Jim Husted
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________ 
> ______________
> Have a burning question?
> Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from real people who know.
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 08:54:46 -0800 (PST)
From: "Andrew A." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Belktronix?
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
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Hi all,

I was searching eBay a while back and I came across a
DC/DC converter sold by a company called Belktronix.
Website is www.belktronix.com. They seem to have
pretty good deals on their stuff, and it appears to be
good quality and well thought out. 

I was just wondering if anyone has had any experiences
with this company, good or bad, or knows anything
about them. I'd never heard of them before, so I
figured it would be a good idea to get a reality
check.

Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Andrew


 
____________________________________________________________________________________
Want to start your own business?
Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
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From: MARK DUTKO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Belktronix?
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 09:19:35 -0800
To: [email protected]

I ordered the pre scaler he makes for the e-meter. Great price, super  
fast shipment, well documented. He also responds quickly.

M

On Dec 12, 2006, at 8:54 AM, Andrew A. wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I was searching eBay a while back and I came across a
> DC/DC converter sold by a company called Belktronix.
> Website is www.belktronix.com. They seem to have
> pretty good deals on their stuff, and it appears to be
> good quality and well thought out.
>
> I was just wondering if anyone has had any experiences
> with this company, good or bad, or knows anything
> about them. I'd never heard of them before, so I
> figured it would be a good idea to get a reality
> check.
>
> Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
>
> Andrew
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________ 
> ______________
> Want to start your own business?
> Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 12:13:36 -0600
From: "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: article comparing efficiencies of battery and FC evs. Nice simple 
chart.
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http://www.physorg.com/news85074285.html
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Belktronix?
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 13:43:38 -0500
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

Andrew,

Looking through the website, I noticed that the controller needs a 24 tap 
from the traction pack.  That means that two of the 12V batteries ( or 4 
batteries, if they're 6 volters) will have more load on them than the rest.  
Even if it's a light load, to me, that's just not the best way to do it.  
And it means you have to have another high voltage line coming from the 
traction pack.

You won't find a need for a mid-pack tap on a Zilla, or even a Curtis.

This may or may not be a real indicator of how well everything is designed, 
but it makes me wonder if other shortcuts were taken.

Phil

>From: "Andrew A." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [email protected]
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: Belktronix?
>Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 08:54:46 -0800 (PST)
>
>Hi all,
>
>I was searching eBay a while back and I came across a
>DC/DC converter sold by a company called Belktronix.
>Website is www.belktronix.com. They seem to have
>pretty good deals on their stuff, and it appears to be
>good quality and well thought out.
>
>I was just wondering if anyone has had any experiences
>with this company, good or bad, or knows anything
>about them. I'd never heard of them before, so I
>figured it would be a good idea to get a reality
>check.
>
>Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
>
>Andrew
>
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________________________
>Want to start your own business?
>Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
>http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
>

_________________________________________________________________
Visit MSN Holiday Challenge for your chance to win up to $50,000 in Holiday 
cash from MSN today!  
http://www.msnholidaychallenge.com/index.aspx?ocid=tagline&locale=en-us
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 13:15:57 -0600
From: "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Electric Car Motor on Google
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Actually if it looks like a small number of IP addresses are clicking
on the same advert many times, google will ban that advertiser because
it looks like click-fraud.

Google banning GM. Now that would be funny.

-Mike

On 12/11/06, Myles Twete <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Rod-
>
> > came across an interesting fact. The search term for "electric car motor"
> > for the number one position is bid at $5.00 per click. The second
>
> Does this mean that if 200 people clicked that link 1000 times each that GM
> would have to dish out $1M to Google?  Or does the per-click price drop as
> click count goes up?
>
> It seems to me that this game can backfire on them if that link gets hit a
> lot.
> Even GM has budget limits.
>
> -Myles
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 13:17:29 -0600
From: "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Electric Car Motor on Google
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Erg, I might have got that backwards. You will get banned from making
money off google adsense if it looks like you are faking traffic
through the ads.

My bad.

-Mike

On 12/12/06, Mike Ellis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Actually if it looks like a small number of IP addresses are clicking
> on the same advert many times, google will ban that advertiser because
> it looks like click-fraud.
>
> Google banning GM. Now that would be funny.
>
> -Mike
>
> On 12/11/06, Myles Twete <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Rod-
> >
> > > came across an interesting fact. The search term for "electric car motor"
> > > for the number one position is bid at $5.00 per click. The second
> >
> > Does this mean that if 200 people clicked that link 1000 times each that GM
> > would have to dish out $1M to Google?  Or does the per-click price drop as
> > click count goes up?
> >
> > It seems to me that this game can backfire on them if that link gets hit a
> > lot.
> > Even GM has budget limits.
> >
> > -Myles
> >
> >
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 14:24:53 -0500
From: "Sean Korb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Determining the value of some AC motors / controllers RFE
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On 12/11/06, Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Yep.  The motor is huge.
>
>   234 lb
>   13.5" diameter
>   17.5" length
>
>   It "may" fit in a pickup or a big car.  Then, you need a minimum of 18 x
> 12 V to run it up to a maximum 26 x 12 V.  I'd say put it in an old vintage
> VW bug and hang it off the back - there is pleanty of open space behind the
> car.  But, where in the world can you fit a minimum of 18 batts in one of
> those?  The length would almost fit in my old Festiva project, but I'm
> almost positive the diameter would hit the CV joints (I think 11" is the
> biggest that would fit).
>

I've really thrown my friend for a loop.  He wants to build an EV, and he
never drives his 1968 Ford Thunderbird.  I put the ideas together for him,
and now he can't sleep.  Are the motors on the east coast?  The T-bird has
suicide doors and already weighs 4400lbs.  Take the 1000lbs of motor and
transmission out and fill the poor thing up with batteries.  It wouldn't be
fast, but it might go 30 miles with 8 or 9 people stuffed in it.

Just thinking out loud.  This is fun :)

-- 
Sean Korb [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.spkorb.org
'65, '68 Mustangs, '68 Cougar, '78 R100/7, '71 Pantera #1382
"The more you drive, the less intelligent you get" --Miller
"Computers are useless.  They can only give you answers." -P. Picasso
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 10:44:36 -0800
From: Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Belktronix?
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

You mean to say you don't have a way to equalize your batteries?
Hmm, someone who doesn't is taking THE BIGGEST SHORTCUT themselves.
Jack

Phil Marino wrote:
> Andrew,
> 
> Looking through the website, I noticed that the controller needs a 24 
> tap from the traction pack.  That means that two of the 12V batteries ( 
> or 4 batteries, if they're 6 volters) will have more load on them than 
> the rest.  Even if it's a light load, to me, that's just not the best 
> way to do it.  And it means you have to have another high voltage line 
> coming from the traction pack.
> 
> You won't find a need for a mid-pack tap on a Zilla, or even a Curtis.
> 
> This may or may not be a real indicator of how well everything is 
> designed, but it makes me wonder if other shortcuts were taken.
> 
> Phil
> 
>> From: "Andrew A." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Reply-To: [email protected]
>> To: [email protected]
>> Subject: Belktronix?
>> Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 08:54:46 -0800 (PST)
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I was searching eBay a while back and I came across a
>> DC/DC converter sold by a company called Belktronix.
>> Website is www.belktronix.com. They seem to have
>> pretty good deals on their stuff, and it appears to be
>> good quality and well thought out.
>>
>> I was just wondering if anyone has had any experiences
>> with this company, good or bad, or knows anything
>> about them. I'd never heard of them before, so I
>> figured it would be a good idea to get a reality
>> check.
>>
>> Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
>>
>> Andrew
>>
>>
>>
>> ____________________________________________________________________________________
>>  
>>
>> Want to start your own business?
>> Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
>> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
>>
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Visit MSN Holiday Challenge for your chance to win up to $50,000 in 
> Holiday cash from MSN today!  
> http://www.msnholidaychallenge.com/index.aspx?ocid=tagline&locale=en-us
> 
> 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 14:40:28 EST
Subject: Re: Determining the value of some AC motors / controllers RFE
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
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On my VW Bug race car I moved the firewall up to 5" from the rear door  
pillar and the package tray is just below the quarter windows so there is 
pretty  
much unlimited room back there for batteries. Also I have a fiberglass tilt  
front end that could house another 6 - 10 batteries up there but for me I  want 
as many in the rear as possible so the car launches fast pulling the front  
wheels up and transferring the load onto the rear tires.
 
Jeffrey 
Subject: ceramic heater short
To: [email protected]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 14:48:45 -0500
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

As far as I can tell, my ceramic heater is in full short.
That would explain the early demise of my relay.

I put a light bulb across the positive feed 156 Volts to the positive of
the ceramic heater and read 156 Volts.
I put a 120 Volt lightbulb on it to make sure it wasn't just bleed voltage.
It is brightly lit for about a minute, so not just the small capacitor that
was wired across this same wire.

Any thoughts, Is this how a ceramic heater fails (in full short?)

In an S10, is there an easy way to get to the ceramic heater to diagnose or
is it really buried?

I might also have a short in the wiring which I hope, but either way its a
good search for the fault in cold weather.

Ben
Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 07:36:39 +1100
To: [email protected]
From: James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: ceramic heater short
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 02:48 PM 12/12/06 -0500, Ben wrote:
>As far as I can tell, my ceramic heater is in full short.
>That would explain the early demise of my relay.
>
>I put a light bulb across the positive feed 156 Volts to the positive of
>the ceramic heater and read 156 Volts.
>I put a 120 Volt lightbulb on it to make sure it wasn't just bleed voltage.
>It is brightly lit for about a minute, so not just the small capacitor that
>was wired across this same wire.

G'day Ben, and all

What was the voltage across the heater when you were doing this?

This is a simplified description of why I ask: If you have a 120 watt light 
globe and put it in series with a 1200watt heater, then 90% of the voltage 
will be across the globe and 10% across the heater.

Ideally, just measure the current in the loop, and the volts across the 
heater. A 120V 1200W heater would measure somewhere in the order of 12 
ohms, but ceramic heater resistance varies with temperature.

Hope this helps

Regards

[Technik] James
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 13:31:02 +0100
Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?RE:_Load_testing_methods?=
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?ev?=" <[email protected]>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

You will go nowhere with it's 150w max limit ! 
3A under 48V...

---------- Initial Header -----------

>From      : [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To          : <[email protected]>
Cc          : 
Date      : Mon, 11 Dec 2006 16:46:03 -0800
Subject : RE: Load testing methods

An interesting option for load testing is the CBA (computerized battery
analyzer) offered at www.westmountainradio.com .  Operating at up to 48v,
it'll discharge a battery or bank to prescribed voltage discharge limits at
constant load and store the data to your USB-attached computer...might be a
spendy option...
Here's the CBA link: http://www.westmountainradio.com/CBA.htm
-MT

> - How to make a battery tester, this is from Joe Smalley
>
> 1) Take a coat hanger with .093 wire, it will draw about 150 amps
> from a 12 volt battery, 100 amps from an 8 volt battery or 75
> amps from a 6 volt battery.
>
> 2) Parallel two or more to get more current.
>
> 3) Connect the coat hanger to some 6 gage or larger jumper cables
> and submerge the wire in water. Don't use a plastic bucket. The
> hot wire can make it leak.
>
> 4) Connect your voltmeter to the battery terminals of the battery
> under test.
>
> 5) Connect the jumper cables to the battery terminals.
>
> 6) Wait for a fixed amount of time (your choice on how far you
> want to discharge the batteries) and read the final voltage.
>
> Disconnect the jumper cables from the battery and record the
> voltage. The bad ones show up pretty quickly using this test.
>
> Rush
> Tucson AZ
> www.ironandwood.org
>



--------------------- ALICE SECURITE ENFANTS ---------------------
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Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 19:11:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Lock Hughes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: China e-scoot passes wow test
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Had a young guy catch sight of this over my shoulder and he went "WOW".


Don't see that reaction usually with most of the Chinese e-scoot
product...

>From the little burg of Chongqing (population 14.5 million), the City
of Double Happiness (and one of Chinas most polluted):

http://www.newstargroup.com/showproduct.asp?ProductID=447
or tinyURL here:
http://tinyurl.com/yx4f4x

Suspect specs aside, this scoot is made (designed?) a thousand miles
west of Yongkang, but it looks like it's from a different planet?  

I don't know "motorcycles" at all, so I was just curious whether this
little EV really is a unique design (outside) or again just some copy
of a design (gas?) from somewhere else?

No idea about pricing or availability, or handling or anything else.
Don't know if it's EVen a good design! 

tks

Lock
Toronto
Human/Electric Hybrid Pedestrian

__________________________________________________
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From: "Alan Gideon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: Acceleration Sim Problem
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 18:48:19 -0500
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
        charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Thanks to you and to Don on the discussion of the use of CarTest.

I had already found the Q4D site.  I prefer standalone applications rather
than online apps so I can save input/output for comparisons of multiple
configurations.

By profession, I am a naval architect.  When working early-stage ship
design, we often have to explore what I call "the shape of design space".  I
view ship and car design as a collection of vectors where each vector
represents a different dimension of the design.  Dimensions include design
facets beyond the three physical dimensions we normally consider.  For
example, it takes about 200 of those vectors to define the displacement of a
ship, in addition to the physical dimensions, the technologies involved, and
so forth.  Either fortunately, or unfortunately, almost none of them are
truly independent of one another.

So.... Being able to review a lot of input/output pairs lets me find
favorable and unfavorable areas to explore more fully.

Alan

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Roland Wiench
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:25 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Acceleration Sim Problem

There is a Current and Acceleration Calculator at:

www.geocities.com/hempev/EVCalculator.html

This is a modified Uve's Electric Vehicle Calculator.

Page all the way to the end to the Current and Acceleration Calculator.

There is also a link in the original Uve's Calculator where you can see the 
formula's for this calculator.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Gideon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 5:16 PM
Subject: RE: Acceleration Sim Problem


> Thanks for the suggestion.  I went to their web site and have a couple of
> questions, if I may -
>
> 1.  Since an electric motor power curve usually doesn't look anything like
> an ICE power curve, how well does CarTest 2000 allow a user to 
> characterize
> the physics of an EV?
>
> 2.  It appears that the application stores input and output data in an
> internal database.  Can the data be exported to another application or
> database format?  My thought here was that an ICE is commonly simulated 
> with
> a theoretically infinite gas tank, whereas an EV needs to deal with the
> reality of battery draw-down.  So it becomes important to be able to allow
> for that side of the calculation loop - and I really hate re-keying data.
>
> Alan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Don Cameron
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:49 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: RE: Acceleration Sim Problem
>
> I gave up on my acceleration spreadsheet, and now use CarTest2000.  Much
> more versatile and accurate.
>
>
>
>
> Don Cameron, Victoria, BC, Canada
>
> see the New Beetle EV project   www.cameronsoftware.com/ev
>
> ---------------------------------------------------
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Alan Gideon
> Sent: December 10, 2006 8:45 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Acceleration Sim Problem
>
> I have been working on an EV acceleration sim in Excel.  In my attempts to
> get things going, I postulated a 2000# EV with a TransWarP 11 motor,
> figuring that I should see really decent acceleration and prove that my
> equations are OK.  Not OK.  I would appreciate any help that a list member
> might find the time to provide.  The file is at the bottom of the page at
> GeeOne.talkspot.com.  All of the terms for each calc and each time step 
> are
> pretty well documented at the top of the worksheet "Acceleration per
> Gideon".  I started with the Brant equations, characterized the ADC 
> FB1-4001
> and the NetGain Impulse 9 and TransWarP 11 motors, and run out the Brant
> numbers for an EV version of my Miata.  The acceleration calc, which 
> should
> have been an easy time step sim, has been the problem.
>
> Humbly requesting a second set of eyes on the problem.
>
> Alan
>
>
>
>
> 


From: "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: Load testing methods
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 16:41:02 -0800
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
        charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit


> You will go nowhere with it's 150w max limit !
> 3A under 48V...

I suppose you're right.
Their target customer is after all the RC modeler using from relatively low
cap 1-8 NiMH or LiPo cells.  But for those of us using 6v batts, that
150watt equates to 25amps, which is good enough to yield an 8hr discharge
rate on a T-105 in testing a single battery.  You'd need their 500w
amplifier module ($470) to get decent discharge rates for large cap batts:
http://www.westmountainradio.com/CBAAmplifier.htm
At 500watt, you'd be in the 0.5-1.0C range for a good YT or GP70 Hawker.
But at nearly $600 to do this load testing, it's spendy.

I might spring for the $110 for the 150w one...I do enough RC modeling to
justify it alone.

-Myles

>
> An interesting option for load testing is the CBA (computerized battery
> analyzer) offered at www.westmountainradio.com .  Operating at up to 48v,
> it'll discharge a battery or bank to prescribed voltage discharge
> limits at
> constant load and store the data to your USB-attached
> computer...might be a
> spendy option...
> Here's the CBA link: http://www.westmountainradio.com/CBA.htm
> -MT
>
> > - How to make a battery tester, this is from Joe Smalley
> >
> > 1) Take a coat hanger with .093 wire, it will draw about 150 amps
> > from a 12 volt battery, 100 amps from an 8 volt battery or 75
> > amps from a 6 volt battery.
> >
> > 2) Parallel two or more to get more current.
> >
> > 3) Connect the coat hanger to some 6 gage or larger jumper cables
> > and submerge the wire in water. Don't use a plastic bucket. The
> > hot wire can make it leak.
> >
> > 4) Connect your voltmeter to the battery terminals of the battery
> > under test.
> >
> > 5) Connect the jumper cables to the battery terminals.
> >
> > 6) Wait for a fixed amount of time (your choice on how far you
> > want to discharge the batteries) and read the final voltage.
> >
> > Disconnect the jumper cables from the battery and record the
> > voltage. The bad ones show up pretty quickly using this test.
> >
> > Rush
> > Tucson AZ
> > www.ironandwood.org
> >
>
>
>
> --------------------- ALICE SECURITE ENFANTS ---------------------
> Protégez vos enfants des dangers d'Internet en installant
> Sécurité Enfants, le contrôle parental d'Alice.
> http://www.aliceadsl.fr/securitepc/default_copa.asp
>
>
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 01:19:30 -0000
From: "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Load testing methods
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

When I first saw that unit I wondered if it could be hacked to report
10 or 100 times what it's spec'd for? Adding more load is not that
hard. Just getting it to cooperate might be.

Mike



--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>
> You will go nowhere with it's 150w max limit ! 
> 3A under 48V...
> 
> ---------- Initial Header -----------
> 
> >From      : [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To          : <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Cc          : 
> Date      : Mon, 11 Dec 2006 16:46:03 -0800
> Subject : RE: Load testing methods
> 
> An interesting option for load testing is the CBA (computerized battery
> analyzer) offered at www.westmountainradio.com .  Operating at up to
48v,
> it'll discharge a battery or bank to prescribed voltage discharge
limits at
> constant load and store the data to your USB-attached
computer...might be a
> spendy option...
> Here's the CBA link: http://www.westmountainradio.com/CBA.htm
> -MT
> 
> > - How to make a battery tester, this is from Joe Smalley
> >
> > 1) Take a coat hanger with .093 wire, it will draw about 150 amps
> > from a 12 volt battery, 100 amps from an 8 volt battery or 75
> > amps from a 6 volt battery.
> >
> > 2) Parallel two or more to get more current.
> >
> > 3) Connect the coat hanger to some 6 gage or larger jumper cables
> > and submerge the wire in water. Don't use a plastic bucket. The
> > hot wire can make it leak.
> >
> > 4) Connect your voltmeter to the battery terminals of the battery
> > under test.
> >
> > 5) Connect the jumper cables to the battery terminals.
> >
> > 6) Wait for a fixed amount of time (your choice on how far you
> > want to discharge the batteries) and read the final voltage.
> >
> > Disconnect the jumper cables from the battery and record the
> > voltage. The bad ones show up pretty quickly using this test.
> >
> > Rush
> > Tucson AZ
> > www.ironandwood.org
> >
> 
> 
> 
> --------------------- ALICE SECURITE ENFANTS ---------------------
> Protégez vos enfants des dangers d'Internet en installant Sécurité
Enfants, le contrôle parental d'Alice.
> http://www.aliceadsl.fr/securitepc/default_copa.asp
>

Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 18:23:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: I need to find someone to ship my EV from Provo, UT to Atlanta, GA
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Disposition: inline

Any suggestions?
   
  Anyone know who e-volks uses and if the are any good?  That are also in the 
Provo area.  I've had nothing but bad experiences with everyone that I have 
done business with in the past.
   
  Thanks,
   
  Steve

 
---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 18:29:13 -0800 (PST)
From: "Andrew A." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Belktronix?
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Thanks for the input, guys.

I wasn't planning to get the controller (I have a
Raptor 600). Mainly, I was looking at the DC-DC. I
still see what you mean, though. The DC-DC doesn't
seem to have any shortcomings, but as always, any
thoughts on the subject would be welcome.

As a side note, I haven't really been thinking about a
battery EQ. Is this something that is really
necessary, even for a bare bones conversion (seriously
limited budget here)? If so, can anyone recommend a
good system?

Thanks again.

Andrew

--- Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> You mean to say you don't have a way to equalize
> your batteries?
> Hmm, someone who doesn't is taking THE BIGGEST
> SHORTCUT themselves.
> Jack
> 
> Phil Marino wrote:
> > Andrew,
> > 
> > Looking through the website, I noticed that the
> controller needs a 24 
> > tap from the traction pack.  That means that two
> of the 12V batteries ( 
> > or 4 batteries, if they're 6 volters) will have
> more load on them than 
> > the rest.  Even if it's a light load, to me,
> that's just not the best 
> > way to do it.  And it means you have to have
> another high voltage line 
> > coming from the traction pack.
> > 
> > You won't find a need for a mid-pack tap on a
> Zilla, or even a Curtis.
> > 
> > This may or may not be a real indicator of how
> well everything is 
> > designed, but it makes me wonder if other
> shortcuts were taken.
> > 
> > Phil
> > 
> >> From: "Andrew A." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Reply-To: [email protected]
> >> To: [email protected]
> >> Subject: Belktronix?
> >> Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 08:54:46 -0800 (PST)
> >>
> >> Hi all,
> >>
> >> I was searching eBay a while back and I came
> across a
> >> DC/DC converter sold by a company called
> Belktronix.
> >> Website is www.belktronix.com. They seem to have
> >> pretty good deals on their stuff, and it appears
> to be
> >> good quality and well thought out.
> >>
> >> I was just wondering if anyone has had any
> experiences
> >> with this company, good or bad, or knows anything
> >> about them. I'd never heard of them before, so I
> >> figured it would be a good idea to get a reality
> >> check.
> >>
> >> Any information would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks!
> >>
> >> Andrew
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> 
> >>
> >> Want to start your own business?
> >> Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
> >> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
> >>
> > 
> >
>
_________________________________________________________________
> > Visit MSN Holiday Challenge for your chance to win
> up to $50,000 in 
> > Holiday cash from MSN today!  
> >
>
http://www.msnholidaychallenge.com/index.aspx?ocid=tagline&locale=en-us
> > 
> > 
> 
> 



 
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 21:34:34 -0500
From: Paul Wujek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: China e-scoot passes wow test
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Looks more-or-less like a child's toy, top speed is only 28kph, so it 
wouldn't be very safe in traffic.

Lock Hughes wrote:
> Had a young guy catch sight of this over my shoulder and he went "WOW".
>
>
> Don't see that reaction usually with most of the Chinese e-scoot
> product...
>
> >From the little burg of Chongqing (population 14.5 million), the City
> of Double Happiness (and one of Chinas most polluted):
>
> http://www.newstargroup.com/showproduct.asp?ProductID=447
> or tinyURL here:
> http://tinyurl.com/yx4f4x
>
> Suspect specs aside, this scoot is made (designed?) a thousand miles
> west of Yongkang, but it looks like it's from a different planet?  
>
> I don't know "motorcycles" at all, so I was just curious whether this
> little EV really is a unique design (outside) or again just some copy
> of a design (gas?) from somewhere else?
>
> No idea about pricing or availability, or handling or anything else.
> Don't know if it's EVen a good design! 
>
> tks
>
> Lock
> Toronto
> Human/Electric Hybrid Pedestrian
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com 
>
>
>   


-- 
Paul Wujek   ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Tim Gamber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Adjustable battery racks
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 19:46:00 -0700
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

I was planning on using optimas in my conversion for performance but for 
economy and range i would like to use wet cells. These batteries are not the 
exact same size and i was wondering if anyone knew how or where i could buy 
or make an adjustable battery rack that will still be strong.

_________________________________________________________________
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Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Tim Gamber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: China e-scoot passes wow test
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 19:47:56 -0700
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

kinda reminds me of the ENV fuel cell motorcycle...


>From: Paul Wujek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [email protected]
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: Re: China e-scoot passes wow test
>Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 21:34:34 -0500
>
>Looks more-or-less like a child's toy, top speed is only 28kph, so it 
>wouldn't be very safe in traffic.
>
>Lock Hughes wrote:
>>Had a young guy catch sight of this over my shoulder and he went "WOW".
>>
>>
>>Don't see that reaction usually with most of the Chinese e-scoot
>>product...
>>
>> >From the little burg of Chongqing (population 14.5 million), the City
>>of Double Happiness (and one of Chinas most polluted):
>>
>>http://www.newstargroup.com/showproduct.asp?ProductID=447
>>or tinyURL here:
>>http://tinyurl.com/yx4f4x
>>
>>Suspect specs aside, this scoot is made (designed?) a thousand miles
>>west of Yongkang, but it looks like it's from a different planet?
>>
>>I don't know "motorcycles" at all, so I was just curious whether this
>>little EV really is a unique design (outside) or again just some copy
>>of a design (gas?) from somewhere else?
>>
>>No idea about pricing or availability, or handling or anything else.
>>Don't know if it's EVen a good design!
>>
>>tks
>>
>>Lock
>>Toronto
>>Human/Electric Hybrid Pedestrian
>>
>>__________________________________________________
>>Do You Yahoo!?
>>Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
>>http://mail.yahoo.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>--
>Paul Wujek   ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
>

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