EV Digest 6207
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Hole in the Top
by Bill Dennis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) fuel cell venturer and alkaline
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
3) RE: Electric Car Motor on Google
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Caps in Armature
by "Edward Ang" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Electric Car Motor on Google, OOPs, that was Yahoo
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: fuel cell venturer and alkaline
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Alt expo
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
8) Re: EV conversion candidates
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: EV conversion candidates
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Electric Car Motor on Google
by "Eric Wiemer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Hole in the Top
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) cold weather and hall effect pedal
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
13) Re: Firefly Batteries for Sale? - EV clubs
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) [Fwd: RE: GM'S FORWARD PROGRESS: FACTS VERSUS FICTION]
by JS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) VW jetta 1986 & electro automotive kit
by "Michele McGeoy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: A different kind of EV video :)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Dana Havranek)
17) Re: Wrong motor direction for Joe Sixpack Geo Metro EV
by "Darin - MetroMPG.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Wrong motor direction for Joe Sixpack Geo Metro EV
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Suzuki Samurai
by "brougham Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Electric Car Motor on Google, OOPs, that was Yahoo
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Electric Car Motor on Google
by GWMobile <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Load testing methods
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Suzuki Samurai
by Storm Connors <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Wrong motor direction for Joe Sixpack Geo Metro EV
by Jack Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Wrong motor direction for Joe Sixpack Geo Metro EV
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Wrong motor direction for Joe Sixpack Geo Metro EV
by "Darin - MetroMPG.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: EV conversion candidates
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) article: AC Propulsion converts stock Scion xB into fully electric
"eBox" car
by Paul Wujek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) EV Diagram Update
by John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) A John Wayland update
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: EV conversion candidates
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
My Heineman breakers have screen vents in the top, which I presume is to
allow a place for the arcing to go when the breaker trips. The screens
are recessed down into the breaker top an inch or so. Do I need to
leave a hole above them in the breaker box, or can the top of the
breaker box be solid?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dave
Regarding the
venturer.rutgers.edu
and genesis.rutgers.edu
I worked on both vehicles for a good part of my college years; (I think my
picture is in there a few times)
That 5 kW PEM fuel cell car had difficulties mainly with getting the 42
volt fuel cell to charge the 192 volt battery pack.
we used a prototype boost converter that only 4 years later works reliably.
The Venturer is missing all its electric parts except for the motor. THe
body is sitting at the Boyertown museum. It should hold history for being
the first ever fuel cell HYBRID electric vehicle; and the first street
legal fuel cell vehicle in the USA.
The next generation is the 10 kW PEM fuel cell hybrid car
genesis.rutgers.edu
That one was supposed to have the Millennium Cell hydrogen production
system on board so that it would be a liquid fueled car. I believe the
Millennium Cell system damaged the fuel cells (a down side to PEM - they're
sensitive) - I worked 6 months for Millennium Cell. The liquid fuel
technology had promise, then the company was put under the control of a
business man, not a scientist. Otherwise the fuel (sodium borohydridge
NaBH4) was $13 dollars or so, and also damaged clothing and could be a skin
allergen.
So, the Genesis is still operational and the fuel cells do work, but I
believe no longer at 10 kW, more like 5 kW with a hydrogen tank in the
trunk. This PEM stack outputs 120 Volts, but the car runs on 330 VDC, so
boosting is necessary, or a 480 Volt line at home. PROTOTYPE!
Roland, please let us know how the alkaline works. At only about 2-3 times
of a polutting gas generator, an alkaline fuel cell would be interesting to
see work. Also, what output voltage is it? How does one set it to charge
their batteries?
history mode off-
That's why I drive a S10 battery electric. cheap and operational today
Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rod-
> came across an interesting fact. The search term for "electric car motor"
> for the number one position is bid at $5.00 per click. The second
Does this mean that if 200 people clicked that link 1000 times each that GM
would have to dish out $1M to Google? Or does the per-click price drop as
click count goes up?
It seems to me that this game can backfire on them if that link gets hit a
lot.
Even GM has budget limits.
-Myles
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I remember seeing caps in some small permanent magnet motors. Yes,
rotating with the armature. Could someone explain the purpose of
these caps?
Reduce arcing? Electrical noise? Safety? How are they connected,
series or parallel? Would it help to have caps in a large series
motor like the ADC motors?
Thank you.
--
Edward Ang
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sorry folks, I was working on two different sites at the same time. It does
also come up first on Google as well using that search term. I am in no way
condoning people click on that link. You can if you wish to know what they
say.
Roderick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:23 AM
Subject: RE: Electric Car Motor on Google
Rod-
came across an interesting fact. The search term for "electric car motor"
for the number one position is bid at $5.00 per click. The second
Does this mean that if 200 people clicked that link 1000 times each that
GM
would have to dish out $1M to Google? Or does the per-click price drop as
click count goes up?
It seems to me that this game can backfire on them if that link gets hit a
lot.
Even GM has budget limits.
-Myles
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--- Begin Message ---
Hello Ben,
As I understand it, the AFC uses a fuel derided from anhydrous ammonia
(NH3). It is normally store under as a liquid until it is dispense. This
compound is deliver by the train loads to a agriculture chemical supplier,
which we have one out of four that is about a mile from me.
To handle this NH3 in a liquid form, requires a permit, license, training,
correct type of equipment and must be certified. This is normally required
by the people than handle this compound in the pure anhydrous ammonia form.
I will not be storing it in this form.
This NH3 is converted into a ammonia hydroxide which is a water infusion
form before it would be deliver for use in a AFC. In this form, it can be
store in standard stainless tanks as like for a gas tank.
Cleaning compounds uses some ammonia hydroxide that you can buy at a super
mart.
In a AFC cell, this compound is further broke down to hydrogen and oxygen
while the nitrogen is release as a emission. These units which are sometimes
call crackers, can be purchase today to do this separating.
The voltage output will be first inverted to 120 V or even 120/240 VAC 60
hz. This will be able to be use directly as a energy back up system, and
with a standard on board battery charger, can charge the battery pack.
The KW and voltage output will depend on how many of these cells you stack
up.
Using a PFC-50 amp charger, 120 volts ac can be input and you can charge a
battery pack over 200 volts dc, of which many EV's have already.
The size of the unit will be about 10 to 20 kw range for used in combination
of a battery pack. The battery will be use for starting and acceleration.
The AFC will be use for charging.
It will take 50 to 150 kw units to be able to power a EV with changing
speeds and acceleration, anything less, causes too much voltage drop in
these units.
The unit that I will be getting, may be one of the proto types they are
testing or one that will get one for me from a Germany plant which is one
out of three plants there.
I will test it first as a standby power for my home. I will do further test
by using a standby transfer switch that can transfer from commercial power
to the AFC unit that will power my AC input power to the EV to determine how
long and how many charges cycles that it takes to charge my battery pack.
If this science works out, I will then build a new EV from the ground up
using this system.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:42 AM
Subject: fuel cell venturer and alkaline
> Dave
> Regarding the
> venturer.rutgers.edu
> and genesis.rutgers.edu
>
> I worked on both vehicles for a good part of my college years; (I think my
> picture is in there a few times)
>
> That 5 kW PEM fuel cell car had difficulties mainly with getting the 42
> volt fuel cell to charge the 192 volt battery pack.
> we used a prototype boost converter that only 4 years later works
> reliably.
> The Venturer is missing all its electric parts except for the motor. THe
> body is sitting at the Boyertown museum. It should hold history for being
> the first ever fuel cell HYBRID electric vehicle; and the first street
> legal fuel cell vehicle in the USA.
>
> The next generation is the 10 kW PEM fuel cell hybrid car
> genesis.rutgers.edu
> That one was supposed to have the Millennium Cell hydrogen production
> system on board so that it would be a liquid fueled car. I believe the
> Millennium Cell system damaged the fuel cells (a down side to PEM -
> they're
> sensitive) - I worked 6 months for Millennium Cell. The liquid fuel
> technology had promise, then the company was put under the control of a
> business man, not a scientist. Otherwise the fuel (sodium borohydridge
> NaBH4) was $13 dollars or so, and also damaged clothing and could be a
> skin
> allergen.
>
> So, the Genesis is still operational and the fuel cells do work, but I
> believe no longer at 10 kW, more like 5 kW with a hydrogen tank in the
> trunk. This PEM stack outputs 120 Volts, but the car runs on 330 VDC, so
> boosting is necessary, or a 480 Volt line at home. PROTOTYPE!
>
> Roland, please let us know how the alkaline works. At only about 2-3 times
> of a polutting gas generator, an alkaline fuel cell would be interesting
> to
> see work. Also, what output voltage is it? How does one set it to charge
> their batteries?
>
> history mode off-
> That's why I drive a S10 battery electric. cheap and operational today
> Ben
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I went to the expo Sun. I was most imptessed with the phoenix suv as far
as system but didn't like the car . The most impressive car was the Electrum
Spyder witch is made in thousand oaks Calif. it sells for $70,000
but it is beautiful and looks like a $100,000 car it has a range of 150 miles.
I got to meet reverend Gadget for the first time and was very impressed.I also
got to drive a Segway, it was fun. I would buy oneif they were about half the
price.
Larry Cronk 72 Datsun
Electk
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Seems you have a Blue Meanie in mind. A Datsun 1200, Toyota Corolla of the
smallest possible size from the late 60's, Subaru 360, Fiat of anything
lower than an 850, Ford Fiestiva, Ford Aspire, Toyota Starlet, Subaru Justy
or a VW kit car using a rear transazle cantilevered motor would be good
choices.(There are also many other choices. A Cushman comes to mind) A sand
rail might work also. These have the best chance of any kind of range with
the setup you have. . Using the same components except for the batteries
would be a mini truck with 26 golfcart batteries. Not as fast but much more
range. Your car needs to be around 1000 pounds or less to get any range
with Optimas.. You will only have about 550 pounds of batteries. I'm
thinking a Xebra glider might be a good choice but you'll have to drop the 9
inch for a smaller motor.. Lawrence Rhodes......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Gamber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:58 PM
Subject: EV conversion candidates
> Hi everyone i was wondering if anyone had any good donor conversion car
> ideas for me that would be easy and cheap. The ideal car would be able to
> fit a 9 inch ADC motor 13 optima yellow tops(55 amp/h) and zilla 1k into
the
> smallest lightest car possible. It would be good if the car also did not
> have power steering requirements to make it simpler.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Enter the "Telus Mobility Xbox a Day" contest for your chance to WIN!
Telus
> Mobility is giving away an Microsoft Xbox® 360 every day from November 20
to
> December 31, 2006! Just download Windows Live (MSN) Messenger to your
> IM-capable TELUS mobile phone, and you could be a winner!
> http://www.telusmobility.com/msnxbox/
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you are looking for a Festiva California has loads of them. No need to
import from anywhere except the good old Golden State. Cars don't rust here
so many a nice glider goes to the crusher. If all the components on your
car are good but the body it might be worth getting a good body and putting
all the parts on it. I did an Aspire and they are real simple. I took
virtually every part off my 97 wreck in 3 days. A great learning
experience. I still have a bunch of parts. I sold the motor & many of the
components and made back the 600 bucks I spent on a running Aspire. Cars
are cheap here. Cheaper than anywhere else in the country. You could get a
car here for 100 dollars with a straight body. The seats & motor might be
blown but not the body. Lawrence Rhodes......
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I say we give it a shot and have everyone click it a few times. If anything
all we wasted was 60 seconds each.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Bill,
This depends on how much gutter space you have around the circuit breaker.
This type of breaker are in a K, L, or M frame panel. These gutter spaces
around these breakers range from 4 to 12 inches or more.
These type of clearances require no panel vents. Sometimes we install a
panel exhaust fan if the specs call for it.
Make sure there is no conductors next to the exhaust screens on this circuit
breaker and have at least 2 inches of air space above this screen. It is
best to have this C/B vertical for natural heat venting. It does not hurt to
install a screen vent on your enclosure with a inlet and outlet for air
movement which is use for cooling your C/B.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:23 AM
Subject: Hole in the Top
> My Heineman breakers have screen vents in the top, which I presume is to
> allow a place for the arcing to go when the breaker trips. The screens
> are recessed down into the breaker top an inch or so. Do I need to
> leave a hole above them in the breaker box, or can the top of the
> breaker box be solid?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Dennis
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So my raptor 600 uses the hall effect pedal.
In normal weather 40 degrees and up, I turn my car on and the pedal doesn't
register as on.
However, with freezing weather, I turn the car on, and the pedal is
slightly applied according to the controller. (not significant, but enough
to draw 4-8 amps to slightly rotate the motor. when I put the truck in
gear, there is a slight lurch because the motor was turning.
when I arrive home 20 miles later, and if it is warm enough the pedal is no
longer "slightly applied"
on more frigid days, it still thinks it is applied.
Any thoughts on this issue? I hate to loose the upper end of the pedal by
readjusting, but other thoughts?
Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Seth,
You mentioned a while back possibly starting
and EV club around the Akron area.
There are plenty of people close by if you're still
interested.
Count me in on an EV club.
Rod
--- Seth Myers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I asked a Mil Ovan, VP, at the EDTA in D.C. about
> availability - looks like
> their first release, for some Husquevarna (sp?) lawn
> tractors, equipment,
> etc. will be out this Spring maybe, but a 2nd
> version of the battery, probably what they are
> developing for the military,
> will be used and tested (i orginally wrote 'out' but
> not accurate since not
> likely it will be 'out' in the sense that people
> like us could get any). My
> brother Dana, www.myersmotors.com, has been asking
> Firefly the same thing,
> and it looks like no one should expect any
> commercial Firefly battery
> options for ev's for a while yet.
> Maybe some EV'ers should band together at some
> point and try to get some
> released, though at this point I suppose it makes
> sense for them to get as
> much military money to help defray development
> expenses, test them, etc.
> Lots of the battery presentations there (A123, some
> others) seem to be
> interested in electric/hybrid transportation market,
> but need to prove their
> approach, make some money first, in some other
> market first (home power
> tools, etc.). I imagine all of them see themselves
> as supplying the next
> hybrid battery, but it would be nice to see some
> affordable battery types,
> such as Firefly's, in the hands of EV'ers sooner,
> rather than later.
> I kind of wonder, similarly, about the Apollo
> guys who claim a $75/kWhr
> lead cobalt batteries
> (http://www.apolloenergysystems.com/) though I see
> Cobalt is supposed to
> have risen in price a great deal lately (up 2.5x in
> 2003/2004 by someone's
> statistic) and be found primarily in the Republic of
> Congo, probably not a
> real bastion of free trade and democracy, I guess
> ... (I may be entirely
> wrong), which is why some Li battery makers seem to
> be interested in using
> Manganese rather than Cobalt in their Li Ion
> batteries - manganese
> supposedly sourced from all over the world).
> Otherwise, I think Lb Cobalt
> issupposed to be similarly pretty lightweight
> compared to lead acid, but the
> $/kWhr doesn't seem too different from 6 volt golf
> cart 230 Ahr flooded
> battery.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alan Gideon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:51 AM
> Subject: Firefly Batteries for Sale?
>
>
> > I've seen the various internet articles on Firefly
> Batteries, an offshoot
> > of
> > Caterpillar Corp. The carbon foam technology
> looks very interesting.
> > Does
> > anyone know if they are actually for sale (any
> size) yet? Can anyone see
> > any "gottchas" that may be waiting downstream with
> this technology?
> >
> >
> >
> > Alan
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You can fool all of the people some of the time. Keep trying.
John Spradley
Los Angeles
-----------------------------
I sent the above e-mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
after visiting their site.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am about to start a conversion of a 1986 VW jetta using the Electro
Automotive Light Vehicle Manual Transmission Kit.
Has anyone converted a Jetta? Anyone used this kit?
Looking for general advice at this point.
Thanks, Michele
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Really nice, Nikki!
Enjoyed your video.
Dana
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: nikki <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I've just uploaded a video which I made earlier on Saturday showing
> off my little one-seat EV.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a399fIxp9-E
>
> Comments are welcome - it's designed to be a non-EV enthusiast's EV
> report :)
>
>
> Nikki.
>
>
> _______________________________
> Old car? New tricks?
> Visit aminorjourney.com to see the transformation from Hebe to EV.
>
> E-minor isn't just a key any more...
> _______________________________
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim Husted wrote:
Sorry but I still need more info to properly
add input.
Okey dokey: new photos uploaded:
http://metrompg.com/offsite/baker-pump-motor-detail.html
Can I guess from your wanting to see the brush holder position relative
to the pole shoe bolt that you can "eyeball" brush advance that way?
(Would "neutral" brush timing have the brush holders lined up with the
shoe bolts?)
Thanks again for looking.
Darin Cosgrove
PS - Just to double-check things: I reverted back to "stock" field
connections, ran the motor @ 12 v, then switched again to "reverse"
field connections and ran it one more time. Still saw that 750-800 RPM
difference between CW and CCW rotation. (Trying to rule out that the
speed difference was due to a loose connection.)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm sure Jim will have more input but it seems clear (to me) that the
brushes where advanced for turning the other direction. Now they are
retarded. You should not operate the motor reversed under significant
loads until brush timing is corrected (no load or light load at modest
voltages should be fine.) It is likely to arc at high loads until the
brush timing is advanced for reverse rotation. Looking at your
pictures, you marked where the brush holder is relative to the
countersunk field pole screws. You now want the brush holder about the
same distance but to the other side of the field pole screws. Perhaps
even slightly more if you are running that motor way above the
nameplate voltage.
I'm sure the motor guru will clear up (perhaps correct) what I have
said.
Paul "neon" G.
On Dec 11, 2006, at 1:08 PM, Darin - MetroMPG.com wrote:
Can I guess from your wanting to see the brush holder position
relative to the pole shoe bolt that you can "eyeball" brush advance
that way? (Would "neutral" brush timing have the brush holders lined
up with the shoe bolts?)
Thanks again for looking.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: "Storm Connors" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> As in the photos, the galvanized metal was salvaged from some large
assemblies I picked up at the dump.
As a noob I'm not sure if this is welcome or not but I'd be a bit worried by
the galvanised steel. Galvanisation is where you dip an object in molten
zinc.
The standard school boy chemistry test for a strong acid (like sulphuric) is
to add zinc and capture the gas produced. This give the distinctive squeaky
pop when tested with a lit splint, indicating that hydrogen is produced.
Regards,
Brougham
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Of interest in GM's Dave Barthmuss' rebuttal is this quote: "Although I
have not seen the movie or received an advanced DVD as others have from the
film's producers, I can tell you that based on what I have heard there may
be some information that the movie did not tell its viewers."
Hmm, "based on what I have heard". Isn't this the same as hearsay or
rumor. Let's see, why don't I write a rebuttal based on rumor. That is quite
an intelligent thing to do. That will give me and GM credibility. There
always seems to be funny and strange things daily in this world for
entertainment.
Roderick Wilde
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 12:22 PM
Subject: Re: Electric Car Motor on Google, OOPs, that was Yahoo
Sorry folks, I was working on two different sites at the same time. It
does also come up first on Google as well using that search term. I am in
no way condoning people click on that link. You can if you wish to know
what they say.
Roderick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:23 AM
Subject: RE: Electric Car Motor on Google
Rod-
came across an interesting fact. The search term for "electric car
motor"
for the number one position is bid at $5.00 per click. The second
Does this mean that if 200 people clicked that link 1000 times each that
GM
would have to dish out $1M to Google? Or does the per-click price drop
as
click count goes up?
It seems to me that this game can backfire on them if that link gets hit
a
lot.
Even GM has budget limits.
-Myles
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That is a fascinating observation.
I hope you clicked it about 20 times!
You can eat up their budget and see how far they are willing to go to
cover up the electric car scandal.
:-)
On Mon, 11 Dec 2006 11:44 am, Roderick Wilde wrote:
I was in managing my bids on sponsored searches on Google this morning
and I came across an interesting fact. The search term for "electric
car motor" for the number one position is bid at $5.00 per click. The
second place bids are $.039, then $.038 and $.30. I found this
disparity in bids quite unusual. This add link goes to General Motors
page trying to do damage control over "Who Killed the Electric Car".
Apparently that movie really got on their nerves. Here is their link:
www.onlygm.com Learn About What Really Happened to GM's EV1
Electric Car Program.
Roderick Wilde
EV Parts, Inc.
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www.GlobalBoiling.com for daily images about hurricanes, globalwarming
and the melting poles.
www.ElectricQuakes.com daily solar and earthquake images.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
An interesting option for load testing is the CBA (computerized battery
analyzer) offered at www.westmountainradio.com . Operating at up to 48v,
it'll discharge a battery or bank to prescribed voltage discharge limits at
constant load and store the data to your USB-attached computer...might be a
spendy option...
Here's the CBA link: http://www.westmountainradio.com/CBA.htm
-MT
> - How to make a battery tester, this is from Joe Smalley
>
> 1) Take a coat hanger with .093 wire, it will draw about 150 amps
> from a 12 volt battery, 100 amps from an 8 volt battery or 75
> amps from a 6 volt battery.
>
> 2) Parallel two or more to get more current.
>
> 3) Connect the coat hanger to some 6 gage or larger jumper cables
> and submerge the wire in water. Don't use a plastic bucket. The
> hot wire can make it leak.
>
> 4) Connect your voltmeter to the battery terminals of the battery
> under test.
>
> 5) Connect the jumper cables to the battery terminals.
>
> 6) Wait for a fixed amount of time (your choice on how far you
> want to discharge the batteries) and read the final voltage.
>
> Disconnect the jumper cables from the battery and record the
> voltage. The bad ones show up pretty quickly using this test.
>
> Rush
> Tucson AZ
> www.ironandwood.org
>
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Good observation. Now we know where to get the hydrogen for the fuel cells!
The plan is that the epoxy will encapsulate the zinc. The acid on the steel
wouldn't be all that great a scenario either.
storm
----- Original Message ----
From: brougham Baker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 6:59:28 PM
Subject: Re: Suzuki Samurai
From: "Storm Connors" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> As in the photos, the galvanized metal was salvaged from some large
assemblies I picked up at the dump.
As a noob I'm not sure if this is welcome or not but I'd be a bit worried by
the galvanised steel. Galvanisation is where you dip an object in molten
zinc.
The standard school boy chemistry test for a strong acid (like sulphuric) is
to add zinc and capture the gas produced. This give the distinctive squeaky
pop when tested with a lit splint, indicating that hydrogen is produced.
Regards,
Brougham
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As I understand it, the Honda motors spin opposite the rest, so perhaps
just get a Honda CRX to convert?
Jack
Darin - MetroMPG.com wrote:
Jim Husted wrote:
Sorry but I still need more info to properly
add input.
Okey dokey: new photos uploaded:
http://metrompg.com/offsite/baker-pump-motor-detail.html
Can I guess from your wanting to see the brush holder position relative
to the pole shoe bolt that you can "eyeball" brush advance that way?
(Would "neutral" brush timing have the brush holders lined up with the
shoe bolts?)
Thanks again for looking.
Darin Cosgrove
PS - Just to double-check things: I reverted back to "stock" field
connections, ran the motor @ 12 v, then switched again to "reverse"
field connections and ran it one more time. Still saw that 750-800 RPM
difference between CW and CCW rotation. (Trying to rule out that the
speed difference was due to a loose connection.)
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Hey Darin
Okay if that's where the brushes sit when it's
assembled then it is advanced for a CWDE rotation.
Although you might have to lengthen (or make a new
one) you're gonna want those brushes to be as far on
the other side of those taperhead pole shoe bolts but
on the other side of them.
So it looks like you'll need to rotate the brush ring
a little over 1" or better. I doubt there will be
room to just drill new holes in the brush ring so
you'll need to drill new hole for the CE plate to lock
down. I'd say run the motor under 12 volts without
any bolts in the CE plate and rotate it untill you see
those same OEM RPMs it had when it ran the other way.
To do this you'll need a new Field jumper lead, but
I'd probably just add a small jumper wire to it till
you find out how far over you have to be. Then make
the new cable to attach to the fields.
Keep me posted
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric.
PS: I believe this should make a very good motor for
your project 8^) Best of luck, don't let this get you
down. Ottis made a nice motor.
--- "Darin - MetroMPG.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Jim Husted wrote:
>
> > Sorry but I still need more info to properly
> > add input.
>
> Okey dokey: new photos uploaded:
>
>
http://metrompg.com/offsite/baker-pump-motor-detail.html
>
> Can I guess from your wanting to see the brush
> holder position relative
> to the pole shoe bolt that you can "eyeball" brush
> advance that way?
> (Would "neutral" brush timing have the brush holders
> lined up with the
> shoe bolts?)
>
> Thanks again for looking.
>
> Darin Cosgrove
>
> PS - Just to double-check things: I reverted back to
> "stock" field
> connections, ran the motor @ 12 v, then switched
> again to "reverse"
> field connections and ran it one more time. Still
> saw that 750-800 RPM
> difference between CW and CCW rotation. (Trying to
> rule out that the
> speed difference was due to a loose connection.)
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Want to start your own business?
Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Jim -
Thanks a lot for confirming what I've been hearing from others on the
list. (This noob definitely appreciates all the feedback and the
communal boost up the learning curve.)
The amount of rotation to get it equidistant on the other side of the
pole shoe bolt is actually going to be more like 2+ inches than 1 inch.
It won't be too hard to make a new set of screw holes in the end plate
to lock it down once we've got it figured out.
PS: I believe this should make a very good motor for
your project 8^) Best of luck, don't let this get you
down. Ottis made a nice motor.
Excellent! No worries about me getting discouraged. I'm pretty much in
the opposite situation: I can't wait to get in the garage and start
playing again, now that I've got some understanding about what had us
stumped before.
So again, thanks! I'll keep you posted on the results.
Darin
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I went for a 92 Honda Civic b/c it had a high GVWR,
and someone had already done it, meaning it wouldn't
be reinventing the wheel.
It's aerodynamic, and there are 25,000 of them sold
per month, so lots of spare parts for a long time to
come.
Hope that helps,
--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Seems you have a Blue Meanie in mind. A Datsun
> 1200, Toyota Corolla of the
> smallest possible size from the late 60's, Subaru
> 360, Fiat of anything
> lower than an 850, Ford Fiestiva, Ford Aspire,
> Toyota Starlet, Subaru Justy
> or a VW kit car using a rear transazle cantilevered
> motor would be good
> choices.(There are also many other choices. A
> Cushman comes to mind) A sand
> rail might work also. These have the best chance of
> any kind of range with
> the setup you have. . Using the same components
> except for the batteries
> would be a mini truck with 26 golfcart batteries.
> Not as fast but much more
> range. Your car needs to be around 1000 pounds or
> less to get any range
> with Optimas.. You will only have about 550 pounds
> of batteries. I'm
> thinking a Xebra glider might be a good choice but
> you'll have to drop the 9
> inch for a smaller motor.. Lawrence Rhodes......
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Gamber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:58 PM
> Subject: EV conversion candidates
>
>
> > Hi everyone i was wondering if anyone had any good
> donor conversion car
> > ideas for me that would be easy and cheap. The
> ideal car would be able to
> > fit a 9 inch ADC motor 13 optima yellow tops(55
> amp/h) and zilla 1k into
> the
> > smallest lightest car possible. It would be good
> if the car also did not
> > have power steering requirements to make it
> simpler.
> >
> >
>
_________________________________________________________________
> > Enter the "Telus Mobility Xbox a Day" contest for
> your chance to WIN!
> Telus
> > Mobility is giving away an Microsoft Xbox® 360
> every day from November 20
> to
> > December 31, 2006! Just download Windows Live
> (MSN) Messenger to your
> > IM-capable TELUS mobile phone, and you could be a
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> > http://www.telusmobility.com/msnxbox/
> >
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
____________________________________________________________________________________
Want to start your own business?
Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Cost $55k + Scion, link here:
http://www.engadget.com/2006/12/11/ac-propulsion-converts-stock-scion-xb-into-fully-electric-ebox/
also:
http://www.autobloggreen.com/2006/12/11/alt-car-expo-ebox-makes-public-debut/
--
Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
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I put Version 3 of my schematic with disclosure on my "webpage". (i use
that term loosely)
http://webpages.charter.net/belchertownev/
I made some changes based on the following off list recommendations:
+ I suggest a snubber diode across the vacuum pump motor, and also a
small diode on the pump relay.
+ If your battery shunt is running a emeter, then it should be the
absolute first thing after the negative HV battery terminal.
+ I would also wire the circuit breaker on the battery side of the
DC-DC and Heater for safety. (This was based on version 1 of the
diagram that had the breaker between Traction most negative and the
contactor. Does having the breaker mid-pack address this suggestion?)
+ In general I also like to see an Anderson connector first thing after
the battery (except for any emeter connections) in order to allow for
disconnection of both battery leads to avoid shocks from leaks to
ground when you are working on the high voltage loads.
Based on these suggestions I have added diodes across the vacuum pump
and pump relay. I also showed some Anderson connectors and put the
charger negative lead directly to the battery loop shunt, and moved all
my high voltage negative connections to the Zilla Battery negative.
Those in the know please point out any problems I have introduced.
Also, if anyone with a permanent web site believes there is merit in
hosting my final version that would be welcomed. My web page is not
likely to be maintained, and some on the list seem to find the diagram
helpful.
I've also managed to do some actual work on my conversion, I put the
motor and transmission in over the weekend. Now that its getting cold
here in Western Mass, I wish I had finished this project while it was
warm.
John O'Connor
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--- Begin Message ---
Hey all
I got a call from John today (well actually I called
him first, but anyway) When he called me back he told
me his wife Cheryl had taken a bad spill and in fact
he was calling from the hospital. I just thought
there would be plenty of people here that would want
to know and for EVeryone to send a little prayer or
well wish their way. Hope you're not pissed at me
John for spilling my guts to the world(hey you can
kick my ass later) but Cheryl's every bit an EV'er as
anyone here.
Anyway (John) you let her know the Husted family sends
our love and hope she's back to new real soon.
BTW SEE she told you to pick up that damn E-scooter!!!
Cya all
Jim Husted
____________________________________________________________________________________
Have a burning question?
Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from real people who know.
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--- Begin Message ---
It sounds to me like you are looking to go fast with this motor/controller
combo.
A completely different suggestion-
Late 1970s ProStreet Chevette, tubed and tubbed, shorty 9" Ford diff.,
wrinkle walls, powerglide w/manual valve body.
At least you could make some impressive wheelstands!
Just for fun.
:^D
...
Roy LeMeur
NEDRA NW Regional Director
www.nedra.com
My EV and RE Project Pages-
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links-
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
_________________________________________________________________
View Athletes Collections with Live Search
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