EV Digest 6526
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Finding Rolling Resistance & Cd Empirically
by Tom Parker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) White Zombie 1/4 mile run data
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Curtis 1231C squealing solution
by Ian Page-Echols <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: 300V EV Questions
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) How to get Solectria AC55 motor to fit transmission, is it possible?
by Tony Hwang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: highly recommend new google patent search for old patent and electric
vehicle information!
by "peekay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: subaru
by "Kaido Kert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: subaru
by "Don Davidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Curtis 1231C squealing solution
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: 300V EV Questions
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Conductive Grease, Was: Safety Disconnect
by "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: 300V EV Questions
by "Rick Todd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Curtis 1231C squealing solution
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Choosing diodes for a rectactor circuit.
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Heatsinking a Curtis
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Voltmeter
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Choosing diodes for a rectactor circuit.
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: FWD friction
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Conductive Grease, Was: Safety Disconnect
by "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Voltmeter
by "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Conductive Grease, Was: Safety Disconnect
by "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Conductive Grease, Was: Safety Disconnect
by "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Manual Transmission Rebuild
by Mark Brueggemann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Conductive Grease, Was: Safety Disconnect
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Kilovac EV-200 as safety disconnect?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: 300V EV Questions
by Karsten Gopinath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: 300V EV Questions
by Ralph Merwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, 2007-03-07 at 13:55 +0000, Martin Winlow wrote:
> I had in mind finding a quiet bit of smooth, straight road with a slight and
> consistent slope between two fixed points, over a measured distance and drop
> in height (measurable with a laser level or theodolite). Then, sit the
> donor ICE vehicle at the start point, let off the brakes and time the run
> and measure the speed at the end point. It would have to be a windless day
> too, of course and dry.
I have written a program to analyise a gps track and produce a graph of
resistance v velocity.
Basically it calculates this equation:
rate of change in kinetic energy + rate of change in gravitational
potential energy = power lost due to resistance
This assumes that the engine is in neutral and includes both
aerodynamic, tyre and transmission-in-neutral losses.
See http://carrott.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Main/RollingResistance for the
results for two of my cars (the second one hasn't been weighed, so it's
absolute values are only guessed). I just log the GPS data while driving
and make sure that all my decents are coasting. The program finds the
downhill sections and only looks at them.
I haven't yet prepared the program for release, but if anyone wants it,
please contact me and I'll email it's current state to you.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John, or anyone else, can you tell me again where you had posted some data
captures of a few of your 1/4 mile runs? I'm trying to
explain to my buddy about the series/parallel shift and wanted to show him your
data dump with the shift taking <0.25 seconds if I
remember correctly. If its on the plasmaboyracing site forgive me, there is
soooo much information there and its easy for me to
get distracted and reading about something else in the history of the White
Zombie.
Thanks
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From all I've read, it doesn't sound like something that I would
really care about. How is this dealt with differently on the Zillas
or other controllers so that they apparently don't have this same
type of problem?
On Mar 7, 2007, at 8:13 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
From: Ian Page-Echols
Could someone upload a sample of what this squeal sounds like?
The sound is very simple; just a simple, pure whistle at 1.5 KHz.
Hold down any key on your computer keyboard while it tries to boot
and you'll hear a very good likeness (volume and all).
I'd like to know if people are being picky or if it's something
that would drive me crazy or to the verge of embarrassment to
have in my own car.
You need to understand that the sound is coming from the motor, not
the controller (the motor is the "loudspeaker"). How loud it is
depends on the motor, and how easily sound can get out of it and to
your ears. This varies dramatically between installations.
I have the Curtis squeal in my EV, and it's hardly noticeable. It's
softer than the softest whistle I can make. But I've heard other
EVs where is was much louder.
But I do agree with Shari Prange -- the complaining on the EV list
is often much louder than the squeal itself. :-)
--
Lee Hart
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 08:27 PM 7/03/07 -0600, Fred wrote:
why are u putting the circuit breakers in series for ? it will not chNGE
THEIR VOLTAGE RATING AS THEY ARE NOT A LOAD . AND BEING IN SERIEA THEIR
CURRENT RATING WILL NOT CHANGE EITHER .
Um Fred, if you are going to SHOUT at least know what you are talking about.
A breaker can break and clear the arc of a maximum load at a certain
voltage. Above that voltage it cannot guarantee to clear the arc. So the
160V rated breaker can clear a fault on 160V. Put two contacts in series
and when opened together it will clear a fault if the system voltage is
160V x 2 = 320V. Put three contacts in series and the system can be as high
as 480 volts.
The current will still be whatever the current is. If it is 400A rated, it
doesn't care if the system voltage is 2 volts or maximum rating, it will
trip on the amp/curve it is designed for.
Putting them in parallel *is* a bad idea, as they probably won't reliably
current share between the sections, so for example a 3-pole 150A breaker
cannot be considered as a 1-pole 450A breaker, since you can't count on the
contacts sharing the load - if one pole sees 150A it will trip, even if the
others are only carrying 50A each.
Clear?
Regards
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Solectria AC55 motor seems to be a good choice for a "budget" AC system:
http://www.azuredynamics.com/pdf/AC55%20-%20June%202005.pdf
It's diameter is 13.7", though! HUGE!
The center of my transmission to the right wheel drive axle (the transmission
is to the left of the engine) measures about 5.5 inches. So, it would appear
this motor would be too big, but I was wondering if one trimmed some of the
heatsink fins near the drive shaft, plus maybe a little bit into the casing, if
this would provide enough clearance? I think I would need to trim off enough to
gain 1.35" of clearance, I'm estimating.
- Tony
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
good tip .. google is fast and usable
..peekay
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geopilot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[email protected]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 10:17 AM
Subject: highly recommend new google patent search for old patent and
electric vehicle information!
> Google has done it!
>
> they now have a text searchable patent database all the way back to 1776!
>
> those of you using the us patent office site know their text search only
> goes back to about 1970 something.
>
> now finally we can text search old electric car patents for revealing
> and good ideas!
>
> Be aware that because the old patents were digitized and converted to
> text via optical character recognition that sometimes words are mangled.
>
> Go to the "advanced patent search" items and limit your searches by
> early dates for some really fascinating patents!
>
> such as this one for the electric battery in patents ranging from 1776
> to 1852!
>
>
http://www.google.com/patents?num=100&q=electric+battery&btnG=Search+Patents
&as_drrb_is=b&as_minm_is=1&as_miny_is=1776&as_maxm_is=1&as_maxy_is=1852
>
>
>
>
> --
> Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.2/692 - Release Date: 2/18/2007
4:35 PM
>
>
___________________________________________________________
The all-new Yahoo! Mail goes wherever you go - free your email address from
your Internet provider. http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/nowyoucan.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Why not get a complete EV straight from subaru ? :)
http://www.just-auto.com/article.aspx?id=90665
Subaru is also considering a more radical small car - the R1E, an
all-electric version of the Japanese market R1 'Kei-car'. This small,
three-door model has a range of around 80 miles and a very fast
charging facility - it can be recharged in just 15 minutes, according
to Subaru.
It's already in production and 30 cars are being used in an
experimental EV scheme in Tokyo.
( there are more news on this on ABG and so on, news.google.com is
your friend, There were some speculations of Subarus plans to
exporting it to other left-hand drive countries
)
-kert
On 3/8/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
HI-
Take out the drive shaft and install an electric drive on the rear dif. FT.
> [Original Message]
> From: BC <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Date: 3/7/2007 9:27:58 AM
> Subject: RE: subaru
>
> I think the problem with the subaru, correct me if I'm wrong, is that they
> are all either all wheel drive vehicles or 4WD. EVERY Subaru is like
that.
> Thus you have a greater drain on the batteries. Of course you could just
> replace the transmission.
>
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mike golub
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 11:18 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: subaru
>
>
> it be interesting if do the subaru.
> Haven't seen too many of those.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Fascinating that Subaru is producing an electric now. Back in 1980 Jet
Industries in Austin, TX manufactured the "ElectraVan" based on the Subaru 600
microvan. Very practical design-other than it's use of the GE EV1 SCR
controller and the 10 inch wheels, which is my only fear once I finish
restoring it-where do I get a reliable supply of 10 inch brake parts?
Don Davidson
www.elecars.spaces.live.com<http://www.elecars.spaces.live.com/>
----- Original Message -----
From: Kaido Kert<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 6:43 AM
Subject: Re: subaru
Why not get a complete EV straight from subaru ? :)
http://www.just-auto.com/article.aspx?id=90665<http://www.just-auto.com/article.aspx?id=90665>
Subaru is also considering a more radical small car - the R1E, an
all-electric version of the Japanese market R1 'Kei-car'. This small,
three-door model has a range of around 80 miles and a very fast
charging facility - it can be recharged in just 15 minutes, according
to Subaru.
It's already in production and 30 cars are being used in an
experimental EV scheme in Tokyo.
( there are more news on this on ABG and so on, news.google.com is
your friend, There were some speculations of Subarus plans to
exporting it to other left-hand drive countries
)
-kert
On 3/8/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <[EMAIL
PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
> HI-
> Take out the drive shaft and install an electric drive on the rear dif. FT.
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: BC <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> > To: <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
> > Date: 3/7/2007 9:27:58 AM
> > Subject: RE: subaru
> >
> > I think the problem with the subaru, correct me if I'm wrong, is that they
> > are all either all wheel drive vehicles or 4WD. EVERY Subaru is like
> that.
> > Thus you have a greater drain on the batteries. Of course you could just
> > replace the transmission.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mike golub
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 11:18 AM
> > To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
> > Subject: subaru
> >
> >
> > it be interesting if do the subaru.
> > Haven't seen too many of those.
> >
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Actually, It is the motor that makes the noise, correct? sort of the
speaker to the amp.
Perhaps build an sound insulated box around the motor that still allows
the cooling air to circulate.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you tie the handles together it increases there safe interrupt voltage.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
OxGard is a conductive grease that has metalic particles integrated into it.
It is conductive and works as a corrosion inhibitor, but most importantly
makes better contact between dissimilar metals such as copper and aluminum.
I am using it on my main bus system recently installed on my EV as well as
in my house 300amp electric panel.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 11:16 PM
Subject: Conductive Grease, Was: Safety Disconnect
But wouldn't it be better if the grease were truly "conductive"? I
envisioned something like mercury mixed in with the grease, but less
toxic.
Is there any grease that you can put a glob of on the bench, stick the
multimeter leads into (close together but not touching) and get a reading
of
less than infinity Ohms?
Bruce
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: Safety Disconnect
Bruce wrote:
> Where might one find "conductive grease"?
The grease isn't conductive. It's just supposed to keep water, dirt, and
corrosion out of the connection. Most of the additives and claims are
marketing BS.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
As an electric panel manufacturer I concur with James. I can provide wiring
diagrams from Siemens for doing such an action. Good call James.
-Rick Todd
Peterson Electric Panel Mfg. Co.
Department of Engineering
5550 McDermott Dr.
Berkeley, IL 60163
Phone (708) 449-2270
Fax (708) 449-2269
Website www.petersonpanel.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of James Massey
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 3:59 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: 300V EV Questions
At 08:27 PM 7/03/07 -0600, Fred wrote:
>why are u putting the circuit breakers in series for ? it will not chNGE
>THEIR VOLTAGE RATING AS THEY ARE NOT A LOAD . AND BEING IN SERIEA THEIR
>CURRENT RATING WILL NOT CHANGE EITHER .
Um Fred, if you are going to SHOUT at least know what you are talking about.
A breaker can break and clear the arc of a maximum load at a certain
voltage. Above that voltage it cannot guarantee to clear the arc. So the
160V rated breaker can clear a fault on 160V. Put two contacts in series
and when opened together it will clear a fault if the system voltage is
160V x 2 = 320V. Put three contacts in series and the system can be as high
as 480 volts.
The current will still be whatever the current is. If it is 400A rated, it
doesn't care if the system voltage is 2 volts or maximum rating, it will
trip on the amp/curve it is designed for.
Putting them in parallel *is* a bad idea, as they probably won't reliably
current share between the sections, so for example a 3-pole 150A breaker
cannot be considered as a 1-pole 450A breaker, since you can't count on the
contacts sharing the load - if one pole sees 150A it will trip, even if the
others are only carrying 50A each.
Clear?
Regards
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've always been amused when people get upset at the "Curtis whine".
Some long-term EVer's get downright indignant when they hear a Curtis.
The sounds from the motor in my Prizm have changed over the years as
the controller has changed from a Curtis to a Zapi to a DCP and now a
Zilla. None of these controllers is absolutely silent. They all make
noise, all different from each other.
The noise coming from the motor in my Prizm always gives me an EV Grin.
Quiet or "whine", it screams out "ELECTRIC".
Ralph
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
damon henry wrote:
How does one go about choosing the right diodes for a rectactor
circuit... Here is one that looked reasonable. Am I in the ballpark?
Mouser part #RHRG75120.
No, you're on the wrong track. This is a high voltage, low current
diode, intended for PC board mounting. What you want is a stud mounted,
low voltage, high current diode. Here are a couple that came up on a
quick search:
600v, 275amp, $19.95
http://www.hosfelt.com/index.html?target=dept_402.html&lang=en-us
400v, 150amp, $5?
http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Pcs-IR-45LR40-Stud-Mount-Rectifier-400V-150A_W0QQitemZ190088461655QQihZ009QQcategoryZ7287QQcmdZViewItem
Depending on the voltage of the batteries you are paralleling, even
lower voltage diodes are useful (100v, 50v, or even 30v). Schottky
diodes are good below about 50v, because they have about half the
voltage drop.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Phil Marino wrote:
I'm mounting my Curtis ( 1221C) to a flat aluminum plate ( 3/16 x 14 x
16 inches) as a heatsink, but I also have a smaller, finned heatsink (
about 5 x 7 x 2 inches) that I want to mount to the back side of the
plate. (opposite side as the controller) for a bit of extra cooling.
Does anyone know where the internal heat-generating components are? Or,
have a picture of the guts of a 1221C that would show that?
No; the entire bottom surface of the case is heatsink area. There is a
big pi-shaped aluminum extrusion to which all the parts are mounted; it
distributes heat to the whole bottom of the case.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Also make sure when you run volt meter and amp meter wires from the power
source, that you want to monitor, install about a 0.5 amp fuse of the
correct voltage at that source on both sides of the leads.
It was common in the past to tap off the lines of a contactor and run to a
control station without any fusing. This has cause many fires and damage to
a structure.
For amp meter that is in my dash, I have a Bussman 500 vdc fast blow fuses
that connects right to the sense screws on the shunt that attaches like a
wire terminal does for the amp meter.
For the volt meter, use two fuses connected to the closes point to the
battery mains, normally which will be a take off of the safety contactors,
main circuit breaker and/or disconnected switch.
The wires I use is a Type THWN 19 stranded copper No. AWG 14 600 V rating
for the volt meter, and the correct wire for the amp meter, will normally be
determined by the amp meter specifications, that should list the wire size
for the distance the wire runs.
This wire can come in pairs with a jacket or can be single. The single wire
is insulated with a PVC and a Nylon covering. I ran each pair in a separate
3/8 plastic conduit. The amp meter pair is twisted before installing.
If you get a jacket wire, make sure you get the twisted pair, which I
normally got from a electronics supply house.
My EV has a large 8 inch square wire way with hinge covers that run down the
center of the EV from the rear component compartments, that runs up the
front under the center console with a take off to the hinge dash plates and
to the motor bay with plastic conduit.
In the rear equipment compartment, under the dash plates, and in the motor
bay, there is a industrial Square D set screw 600 V terminals strips that
can be assemble in any length and any size to accepted any size wire up to
500 mcm. Can also attach DIM mounted relays, circuit breakers, fuse
holders, and about any type of electrical device there is.
The wire terminals are label with the same number or letter at the terminals
for the same wire. There is no wire that goes directly between any two
components, they first terminal at the terminal strip and than go to the
components. This type of wiring, make it easy for installing modifications.
When I replace my CableForm controller with a Zilla, added a Link-10, A
motor amp and motor volt meter, accessory drive motors, all I had to do was
to cross connected at this terminal strip to install these devices to same
or spare wires that were run.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: Voltmeter
> Cor,
>
> I don't understand what double-isolated wiring means. Are you talking
> about
> running the insulated wiring in separate conduits for positive and
> negative?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bruce
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 9:17 PM
> Subject: RE: Voltmeter
>
>
> > Unless you want to become real fancy, you will have to run wiring from
> your
> > pack to the dash....
> > You could use the series resistor that you normally use to turn a uA
> > meter
> > into a voltmeter and divide it in two equal (but half the value)
> resistors,
> > so each lead into the dash has a large resistance and can only cause a
> small
> > leak, but the Amp-meter cannot be wired any other way than directly to
> > the
> > shunt in the pack wiring, so the best thing you can do is use
> > double-isolated and fused high-voltage wiring.
> >
> > Hth,
> >
> > Cor van de Water
> > Systems Architect
> > Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
> > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> > Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> > Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> > Second Life: www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> > Behalf Of Bruce
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 9:06 PM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Voltmeter
> >
> > I understand that if possible, you want to keep the full battery pack
> > voltage out of the passenger cabin for safety reasons. How do you have
> > a
> > voltmeter on the dashboard then?
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks this is helpful. So is there any kind of voltage spikes I need to
worry about, or do I simply need to match the voltage rating to the battery
pack maximum votage? Also in the diagram I am going off of there is no
freewheel diode across the motor, but other diagrams I have looked at do
include this. Is this extra diode needed/helpful? I am looking at some
ASCII art you posted last winter which included 5 contactors, 6 diodes, and
a starting resistor. These components give 3 discreet voltage steps, plus
field weakening and a soft start. If needed I can post the diagram.
thanks
damon
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Choosing diodes for a rectactor circuit.
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2007 17:02:25 -0600
damon henry wrote:
How does one go about choosing the right diodes for a rectactor circuit...
Here is one that looked reasonable. Am I in the ballpark?
Mouser part #RHRG75120.
No, you're on the wrong track. This is a high voltage, low current diode,
intended for PC board mounting. What you want is a stud mounted, low
voltage, high current diode. Here are a couple that came up on a quick
search:
600v, 275amp, $19.95
http://www.hosfelt.com/index.html?target=dept_402.html&lang=en-us
400v, 150amp, $5?
http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Pcs-IR-45LR40-Stud-Mount-Rectifier-400V-150A_W0QQitemZ190088461655QQihZ009QQcategoryZ7287QQcmdZViewItem
Depending on the voltage of the batteries you are paralleling, even lower
voltage diodes are useful (100v, 50v, or even 30v). Schottky diodes are
good below about 50v, because they have about half the voltage drop.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
_________________________________________________________________
Rates near 39yr lows! $430K Loan for $1,399/mo - Paying Too Much? Calculate
new payment
http://www.lowermybills.com/lre/index.jsp?sourceid=lmb-9632-18226&moid=7581
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Claudio Natoli wrote:
Would changing brake hoses help prevent yours from unduly dragging
after adjustment?
I've heard that they can contribute to the problem. But in my case, the
main problem is that the calipers do not move freely on their pins; they
bind in one position. And, the pistons do not roll back into their
bores. This leaves the pads lightly dragging on the rotors.
I recently discovered that Wilwood disk brakes are available for almost
any car. They have a fixed caliper, and separate cylinders for each
side. Some models have real retracting springs, instead of relying on
the rubber seal to pull the pad back. The larger piston area means
vacuum power assist isn't necessary. If they have 'em to fit my car, I
think I'll give them a try!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi, Bruce - it is similar to Noalox, but having used both, I prefer the
Ilsco product. I don't know if it is conductive for sure, but we have used
it on electrical connections many times between the wire and the connector,
and it does not inhibit conductivity at all. I have also used it on
automotive post terminals with positive results.
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 7:46 PM
Subject: Conductive Grease, Was: Safety Disconnect
> Thanks for the lead Joseph. I assume you mean Ilsco Deox Oxide Inhibitor.
> On their web page, Ilsco describes Deox's features as:
> a.. Provides air-tight seal around conductor.
> a.. Available in a variety of packages.
> a.. Broad working temperature range.
> a.. Conductor versatile.
> a.. Prevents oxides from forming.
> a.. Provides convenience of selecting the right size for the job.
> a.. May be used from -30 F to 300 F, and on copper or aluminum conductors.
>
> Says nothing about it being conductive. It sounds a bit like Noalox to
me.
> Have you tested it with an Ohm meter for conductivity? Is there any other
> grease that is more conductive?
>
> Bruce
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 6:15 AM
> Subject: Re: Safety Disconnect
>
>
> > Try De-ox.
> >
> > Joseph H. Strubhar
> >
> > E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > Web: www.gremcoinc.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bruce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 9:53 PM
> > Subject: Re: Safety Disconnect
> >
> >
> > > Where might one find "conductive grease"?
> > >
> > > I've tried testing the conductivity of Noalox and found it to not be
> very
> > > conductive at all.
> > >
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > > Tom Gocze wrote:
> > > > It could be set up with some conductive grease for good
> > > > contact and ease of use.
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.7/710 - Release Date: 3/4/2007
1:58 PM
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
IMHO, keeping the voltage out of the passenger cabin on an EV is not a
consideration, unless it exceeds 250 volts.
If you keep the wires up behind the dash, or protect them from curious or
careless fingers, it shouldn't be a problem.
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 9:06 PM
Subject: Voltmeter
> I understand that if possible, you want to keep the full battery pack
> voltage out of the passenger cabin for safety reasons. How do you have a
> voltmeter on the dashboard then?
>
> Bruce
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.7/710 - Release Date: 3/4/2007
1:58 PM
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There is also one that has copper in it, but I don't know the brand name
right now.
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Murray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: Conductive Grease, Was: Safety Disconnect
> they make a conductive grease made from silver, as you might guess it is
> expensive.
> http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Chemtronics/Web%20Data/CW7100.pdf
>
> Bruce wrote:
> > But wouldn't it be better if the grease were truly "conductive"? I
> > envisioned something like mercury mixed in with the grease, but less
toxic.
> >
> > Is there any grease that you can put a glob of on the bench, stick the
> > multimeter leads into (close together but not touching) and get a
reading of
> > less than infinity Ohms?
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 10:06 AM
> > Subject: Re: Safety Disconnect
> >
> >
> >
> >>Bruce wrote:
> >>
> >>>Where might one find "conductive grease"?
> >>
> >>The grease isn't conductive. It's just supposed to keep water, dirt, and
> >>corrosion out of the connection. Most of the additives and claims are
> >>marketing BS.
> >>--
> >>Ring the bells that still can ring
> >>Forget the perfect offering
> >>There is a crack in everything
> >>That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> >>--
> >>Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.7/710 - Release Date: 3/4/2007
1:58 PM
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That's the one I was talking about. I haven't used it much, though.
Joseph H. Strubhar
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 11:21 PM
Subject: Re: Conductive Grease, Was: Safety Disconnect
> Here is a product that I have used in the past as a "super" conductor on
> wire splices.
>
> Made by Thomas & Betts
>
> "Kopr-ShieldT Compound-The copper colloidal surface treatment that
protects,
> lubricates and enhances conductivity between all electrical connections."
>
> You need to be very careful with it as it tracks very easily and the
> multimeter leads can be on either side of the the "glob" and still read a
> low resistance.
>
> John
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bruce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 9:16 PM
> Subject: Conductive Grease, Was: Safety Disconnect
>
>
> > But wouldn't it be better if the grease were truly "conductive"? I
> > envisioned something like mercury mixed in with the grease, but less
> > toxic.
> >
> > Is there any grease that you can put a glob of on the bench, stick the
> > multimeter leads into (close together but not touching) and get a
reading
> > of
> > less than infinity Ohms?
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 10:06 AM
> > Subject: Re: Safety Disconnect
> >
> >
> >> Bruce wrote:
> >> > Where might one find "conductive grease"?
> >>
> >> The grease isn't conductive. It's just supposed to keep water, dirt,
and
> >> corrosion out of the connection. Most of the additives and claims are
> >> marketing BS.
> >> --
> >> Ring the bells that still can ring
> >> Forget the perfect offering
> >> There is a crack in everything
> >> That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> >> --
> >> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.7/710 - Release Date: 3/4/2007
1:58 PM
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> So I pulled the MR2 transmission
> The transmission has two problems,
> do I do the rebuild myself.
...
> The factory manual I have covers the entire process, and is very
> complete.
Even if you're willing to take on this task, can you get parts?
Transmissions aren't typically meant to be user or even dealer
serviced in most cases, so even if you can identify a part with
a part number or reference designator, a trip to the dealer may
net you with the statement "replace with next higher assembly"
which usually is a new or rebuilt transmission. I would
check on that before you have it disassembled into a thousand
pieces and render it valueless even as a core.
Speaking of that, someone must offer those under direct exchange.
Drop yours off, and pick up a rebuilt. Saves a lot of time and
hassle, and it should have new wear items and seals already
installed.
Or consider an entirely different transmission, even of different
make that you *can* get parts for. Since on an EV you are
engineering your own driveline anyway, you have the freedom to
install whatever transmission/transaxle you want. Rear wheel
drive cars are easier (I have a mix of Isuzu and Ford in my
Chevy) but for the effort of coming up with suitable connection
shafts you could have the benefit of a gearbox that more closely
matches your needs in terms of maintenance, efficiency or
performance. In any event, your time is worth something too,
I wouldn't spend it working on rebuilding a transmission when
I could be doing EV projects instead.
Mark "EV Basher" Brueggemann
Albuquerque, NM
S-10 EV
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
You can find "Silver" grease in many computer and electronic shops. it
tends to only be sold in 1/2 or 1oz containers tho.
And, it's only "conductive" in the same sense as water. Its resistance
is thousands of times higher than any metal.
But wouldn't it be better if the grease were truly "conductive"?
I envisioned something like mercury mixed in with the grease,
but less toxic.
Mercury is certainly conductive, but still has many times higher
resistance than copper. And, mercury makes a better "glue" than it does
a grease. It tends to dissolve the two metals it's between, forming an
amalgam that bonds the two together.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
After welding an ev-200 in a 2700 pound car @ 144vdc I won't use one again.
However I might mix one with an Albright. Lawrence Rhodes......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: Kilovac EV-200 as safety disconnect?
> >Cor wrote:
> > I read somewhere that the reason for good specs in small package
> > of the Czonka is the use of a specific gas inside the enclosure.
>
> From: David Brandt
> >Yes, they use hydrogen.
>
> If memory serves, I think it was sulfur hexafluoride. Anyone have it
written down anywhere?
> --
> Lee Hart
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
he hit caps lock instead of A or a as it were
On Mar 8, 2007, at 1:58 AM, James Massey wrote:
At 08:27 PM 7/03/07 -0600, Fred wrote:
why are u putting the circuit breakers in series for ? it will not
chNGE THEIR VOLTAGE RATING AS THEY ARE NOT A LOAD . AND BEING IN
SERIEA THEIR CURRENT RATING WILL NOT CHANGE EITHER .
Um Fred, if you are going to SHOUT at least know what you are talking
about.
A breaker can break and clear the arc of a maximum load at a certain
voltage. Above that voltage it cannot guarantee to clear the arc. So
the 160V rated breaker can clear a fault on 160V. Put two contacts in
series and when opened together it will clear a fault if the system
voltage is 160V x 2 = 320V. Put three contacts in series and the
system can be as high as 480 volts.
The current will still be whatever the current is. If it is 400A
rated, it doesn't care if the system voltage is 2 volts or maximum
rating, it will trip on the amp/curve it is designed for.
Putting them in parallel *is* a bad idea, as they probably won't
reliably current share between the sections, so for example a 3-pole
150A breaker cannot be considered as a 1-pole 450A breaker, since you
can't count on the contacts sharing the load - if one pole sees 150A
it will trip, even if the others are only carrying 50A each.
Clear?
Regards
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm curious how this works. If two breakers are in series, even though they
are setup to "trip together", one of them will start opening before the other,
and it will see the full pack voltage.
Does the actual "break" not occur until both breakers are opening?
What happens to the first breaker between the time it starts to open and the
time the second breaker starts to open? Or is this time so short that it
doesn't matter?
Ralph
Rick Todd writes:
>
> As an electric panel manufacturer I concur with James. I can provide wiring
> diagrams from Siemens for doing such an action. Good call James.
> -Rick Todd
>
>
> Peterson Electric Panel Mfg. Co.
> Department of Engineering
> 5550 McDermott Dr.
> Berkeley, IL 60163
> Phone (708) 449-2270
> Fax (708) 449-2269
> Website www.petersonpanel.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of James Massey
> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 3:59 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: 300V EV Questions
>
> At 08:27 PM 7/03/07 -0600, Fred wrote:
> >why are u putting the circuit breakers in series for ? it will not chNGE
> >THEIR VOLTAGE RATING AS THEY ARE NOT A LOAD . AND BEING IN SERIEA THEIR
> >CURRENT RATING WILL NOT CHANGE EITHER .
>
> Um Fred, if you are going to SHOUT at least know what you are talking about.
>
> A breaker can break and clear the arc of a maximum load at a certain
> voltage. Above that voltage it cannot guarantee to clear the arc. So the
> 160V rated breaker can clear a fault on 160V. Put two contacts in series
> and when opened together it will clear a fault if the system voltage is
> 160V x 2 = 320V. Put three contacts in series and the system can be as high
> as 480 volts.
>
> The current will still be whatever the current is. If it is 400A rated, it
> doesn't care if the system voltage is 2 volts or maximum rating, it will
> trip on the amp/curve it is designed for.
>
> Putting them in parallel *is* a bad idea, as they probably won't reliably
> current share between the sections, so for example a 3-pole 150A breaker
> cannot be considered as a 1-pole 450A breaker, since you can't count on the
> contacts sharing the load - if one pole sees 150A it will trip, even if the
> others are only carrying 50A each.
>
> Clear?
>
> Regards
>
> [Technik] James
>
>
--- End Message ---
