EV Digest 6559
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: custome made
by "Scott Stadler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: lectro electric forklift 30-24A
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: AC Drives on Ebay
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: Single RPM Sensor for Dual Motors
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Dual Controller/motors
by Rodney A <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: lectro electric forklift 30-24A
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: lectro electric forklift 30-24A
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: shunt motor controller?
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Dual Controller/motors
by DM3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: lectro electric forklift 30-24A
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: Single RPM Sensor for Dual Motors
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: lectro electric forklift 30-24A
by Bill & Nancy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: shunt motor controller?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: distributed charging
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Bob Schneveis' Walking Electric Chariot
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: Dual Controller/motors
by Rodney A <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Machining adapter plate via website
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: lectro electric forklift 30-24A
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: lectro electric forklift 30-24A
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Geo Metro EV on a budget
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Lee's BMS?
by Tom Ward <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Ok, thanks for the info. Was about what I expected. More of a headache
then is worth dealing with...
=================
Scott Stadler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lee Hart
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 11:09 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: custome made
From: Scott Stadler
> How hard would it be to retro fit a small motor to replace the
> axles of a front wheel drive car?
Hard. A small motor implies small torque, which means it won't have enough
torque to do much. A large motor either won't fit, or would add so much
weight that it would interfere with the handling (adds too much unsprung
weight).
> Would it even be possible to machine something to fit the drive
> shaft of the motor to mimic the cogged end of the axles where
> it fits into the wheel hub?
Well, let's think about it... Some transaxles have a faily large external
constant velocity universal joint on each half shaft. You need a fairly
large diameter electric motor anyway to produce enough torque to be useful.
So, it would be possible to design a special motor with a large enough
center hole so the CV joint can fit inside it. The rotor (moving part of an
electric motor) would turn the part of the CV joint connected to the
transaxle. The stator (fixed part of an electric motor) would need to be
attached to the transaxle case. An expert machinist, or a car company
willing to spend a lot on tooling could do it.
> How critical are the axles to the stability of the front wheel/strut
> assembly?
It depends. Sometimes, the axles themselves are part of the suspension. More
often, on front wheel drive vehicles, they just connect the fixed transaxle
to the moving wheel with a pair of universal joints, so their only real
contribution to handling is their weight.
If you really wanted to do something like this, hydraulic motors would be
easier than electric motors. They are much smaller for a given amount of
torque. But you'd need a hydraulic pump to convert mechanical power into oil
pressure to run them.
> Also, how much harder/easier/safer would this be to attempt on
> a rear wheel drive vehicle?
The principle is the same, though the details differ. At least with a rear
axle, you can use a solid axle, and mount the motor to the drive shaft or
pinion, where it gains a torque advantage from the differential (a 3:1 rear
end means the motor only needs to produce 1/3rd the torque, and so can be 3x
smaller).
--
Lee Hart
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Mike
You're gonna have to ask Wayland on that one, he's the
guy who removes the babies. I'm more like the guy who
circomsizes them 8^o
I've seen the crazy crap forklift guys have to do,
that's why I don't do it, LMAO!
Hopfully John will chime in for you, although it might
take a day or two. He called me today all in my face
that he'd put that Cat motor back in "all by himself"
all the while sounding like Shirly Temple on a curtis
controller. I couldn't help but picture Wayland
walking out of Boyds with a bit of a limp. It was
hard to tell if it was the buldging 6 inch hernia or
if he was just thinking about playing with my Siamese8
this weekend 8^o
Anyway when you get them out (after all the real work
is done) let me know. If this is for EV consumtion
you should find nice keyed shafts. In fact I can't
remember having done a motor from a Lectro that didn't
so hopefully that's some good news. Watch you'll be
that one, hehe.
Glad to hear all went well.
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
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--- Begin Message ---
Most of the drives I have worked on have the DC buss on the terminal strip
between the Line in and the Motor out and labeled B+ and B-. Usually listed
in the documentation as the terminals for the dynamic braking module.
respectfully,
John
John Neiswanger
"The Skunk" http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751
----- Original Message -----
From: "FRED JEANETTE MERTENS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: AC Drives on Ebay
how about GE drives you can disable their alarms easily bur I don't
remember about the alarm for v in I know you can disable the current
alarm but you will have to hack the dc to the dc bus .
----- Original Message -----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Karl Nichols<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ;
ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 2:43 PM
Subject: Re: AC Drives on Ebay
A lot of the newer generation drives up to 3-5 hp are able to work off
single phase input. I have even seen a couple that claimed to work off
120
volt single phase input for under 1 hp. I have a couple on my lathe and
drill press running off of 230 volt 1 phase and I like them for that.
typically they are de-rated with the single phase input since only a
portion
of the input rectifier is being used.
The problem is still the size is not large enough and we don't have any
AC
to show to the drive input. Actually it would be best if we could remove
the input bridge rectifier and filter since we are talking about just
feeding the DC buss directly.
respectfully,
John
John Neiswanger
"The Skunk"
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751<http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl Nichols" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>;
<ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 6:49 AM
Subject: RE: AC Drives on Ebay
I have worked with these drives and some years back I had wired a next
generation unit to a Bridgeport Mill and ran it off 240V single phase. I
simply added a second phase wire to the 3rd leg and this effectively
worked
to give a voltage input for all 3 phases. The motor was rated at 208V 3
phase at 2hp it worked great and gave me a simple speed control.
Karl Nichols
Phoenix, AZ
05 Prius
Looking for first full EV
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 11:14 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: AC Drives on Ebay
>From the nameplate of the drive shown and the size of the cabinet those
appear to be about 1 HP drives. The 1333 AB drive is about 5 or 6 series
old and are probably early 1990s vintage.
As James mentioned the AB drives have firmware that checks for incoming
phase loss and I haven't found a simple way to fool it into thinking the
incoming lines are there.
I have been asking every industrial drives distributer I deal with about
using their drives with a DC input and have not had much positive
feedback.
I was able to talk to another one today at a seminar and he actually was
encouraging so I will see what he is able to come up with. He actually
admitted to doing a conversion in college back in the early 90s so he may
be
more sympathetic to the problem.
respectfully,
John
John Neiswanger
"The Skunk"
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/preview.php?vid=751<http://www.austinevorg/evalbum/preview.php?vid=751>
----- Original Message -----
From: "John G. Lussmyer"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
To: "EV Discussion List"
<ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 5:06 PM
Subject: AC Drives on Ebay
>I was searching around on Ebay, and found these:
>
> ALLEN BRABLEY ADJUSTABLE FREQUENCY AC MOTOR DRIVES
>
> Item number: 260094665248
>
> I wonder how hard it would be to adapt these to an EV usage....
>
> --
> John G. Lussmyer
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com<http://www.casadelgato.com/>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If the coupler broke the front motor would be the one that overspeeds. Since
the sensor is on that motor it should cut the
controller off. If the main shaft on the "wheel dog" breaks (and the couple
stays intact) then they both still turn the same
speed and the sensor on the front motor still shuts the controller off. Thats
my theory anyway. I just don't know if the Zilla
will throw errors if it doesn't sense an input on the second RPM input port.
Make that three 9"ers, two up front and a Ford 9" in the rear. The wife don't
like them. Because when I'm playing with them, she
don't get to :-O
Any man proud to have is 6.7" displayed all over HotRod magazine must have a
big set of.....eh hem....batteries? Though when the
motor in my truck goes I would appreciate if you didn't display my worn out
shaft in your calendar. Thats what your motors are
for ;-P
Didn't I read the shaft in a siamese 8's was what? 23" long or something. I
saw Rudman wielding it like a bat in one picture.
And no doubt Wayland thrashes on it unmercifuly. Must be built to last, those
siamese shafts.
Oh, back to the sensors before we get booted. Since all the WarP9's now come
with the CE shaft I'll have to implement the little
spacer plate like I did on the Mitsu. Was really simple actually. Table sawed
a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate, put some 3.5"
pieces of cold rollled tubing in and some 3" bolts. The trick is getting the
sensor mounting holes perfectly centered on the hole
for the shaft. Now I could, if I was so inclined, mount a pulley onthe CE
shaft and still run accessories off the dual 9's. What
accessories I'd need I do not know.
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Jim Husted
> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 4:25 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Single RPM Sensor for Dual Motors
>
>
> Hey Mike
>
> I see no ones hit this yet. I'm pretty sure both
> Wayland and Matt Graham do it this way. Not sure how
> you'd wire it so hopefully someone will chime in.
> My question is what would happen if the coupler broke?
>
> Getting back to your previus post:
> It sounds like you're getting two more 9"'ers huh?
> Damn man, how many 9"s does it take to keep your wife
> happy!
> You just be careful when you get those new 9's cause I
> ain't posting no "Mikes wornout shaft pics" in my hall
> of flames album, LMAO!!!
>
> One of these days though, you single motor guys are
> gonna understand that once you've had Siamese you
> never go back, LMAO. Hey Wayland, you're pretty happy
> with my 8"er aren't you?
>
> Anyway you seemed pretty puffy chested about those
> 9"ers but remember Mike it's not just the size but how
> it's powered, hell I just got my 6.7" in Hot Rod
> magazine 8^o All I'm saying is you don't want
> something so big it takes all your juice to launch but
> then peters out resulting in poor over all runs!!
>
> You crying yet! ROF
>
> Had Fun
>
> Cya
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
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>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for the feedback.
I am looking at using a couple of Curtis 1238 AC
controllers and AC motors
(yes, I know a lot of people here don't use AC). I
would love to just
connect the motors to into the powered wheel axles, so
as long as there
aren't issues with the lack of a diff (assuming the
Curtis do torque
control), then it could work quite well I think?? A
single controller/motor
is just too weak, but with two it should have quite
good power delivery and
acceleration/power. And be cheaper than a larger AC
sytem.
____________________________________________________________________________________
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I haven't decided what to do with it.
My wife thinks I can get it working, but as a back-up
plan it will be used for ev parts.
Can the tires be upgraded for outdoor use?
I checked some of the batteries and they seem thirsty.
I didn't see a drop of liquid. The voltage of the 36
volt battery is 8volts.
I guess I can add some distilled water, and get a
charger on them. I have the charger it came with, but
it's 3 phase.
So I might have to get a 36volt charger or that 3
phase convector.
anyone have a SE-1072 that they done with?
Michael Golub
http://community.uaf.edu/~ffmig/home.htm
--- Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hey Mike
>
> You're gonna have to ask Wayland on that one, he's
> the
> guy who removes the babies. I'm more like the guy
> who
> circomsizes them 8^o
>
> I've seen the crazy crap forklift guys have to do,
> that's why I don't do it, LMAO!
>
> Hopfully John will chime in for you, although it
> might
> take a day or two. He called me today all in my
> face
> that he'd put that Cat motor back in "all by
> himself"
> all the while sounding like Shirly Temple on a
> curtis
> controller. I couldn't help but picture Wayland
> walking out of Boyds with a bit of a limp. It was
> hard to tell if it was the buldging 6 inch hernia or
> if he was just thinking about playing with my
> Siamese8
> this weekend 8^o
>
> Anyway when you get them out (after all the real
> work
> is done) let me know. If this is for EV consumtion
> you should find nice keyed shafts. In fact I can't
> remember having done a motor from a Lectro that
> didn't
> so hopefully that's some good news. Watch you'll be
> that one, hehe.
>
> Glad to hear all went well.
>
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel
> sites to find flight and hotel bargains.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
>
>
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I haven't decided what to do with it.
My wife thinks I can get it working, but as a back-up
plan it will be used for ev parts.
Can the tires be upgraded for outdoor use?
I checked some of the batteries and they seem thirsty.
I didn't see a drop of liquid. The voltage of the 36
volt battery is 8volts.
I guess I can add some distilled water, and get a
charger on them. I have the charger it came with, but
it's 3 phase.
So I might have to get a 36volt charger or that 3
phase convector.
anyone have a SE-1072 that they done with?
Michael Golub
http://community.uaf.edu/~ffmig/home.htm
--- Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hey Mike
>
> You're gonna have to ask Wayland on that one, he's
> the
> guy who removes the babies. I'm more like the guy
> who
> circomsizes them 8^o
>
> I've seen the crazy crap forklift guys have to do,
> that's why I don't do it, LMAO!
>
> Hopfully John will chime in for you, although it
> might
> take a day or two. He called me today all in my
> face
> that he'd put that Cat motor back in "all by
> himself"
> all the while sounding like Shirly Temple on a
> curtis
> controller. I couldn't help but picture Wayland
> walking out of Boyds with a bit of a limp. It was
> hard to tell if it was the buldging 6 inch hernia or
> if he was just thinking about playing with my
> Siamese8
> this weekend 8^o
>
> Anyway when you get them out (after all the real
> work
> is done) let me know. If this is for EV consumtion
> you should find nice keyed shafts. In fact I can't
> remember having done a motor from a Lectro that
> didn't
> so hopefully that's some good news. Watch you'll be
> that one, hehe.
>
> Glad to hear all went well.
>
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel
> sites to find flight and hotel bargains.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
maybe I meant clutchless, not direct drive.
Would clutchless work with the shunt motor?
--- "Paschke, Stephen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I was going to use a g-32 for my project vw
> cabriolet until I figured
> the range I needed and some of my commuting is on a
> highway. I changed
> my plans just before I started working on my
> project. Now I am looking
> at 144V pack with a Netgain Impulse9. I am
> undecided on the controller
> at the moment. So I will soon be selling my J&H
> g-32.
>
> Direct drive will not work due to the small RPM
> range of the g-29. The
> G-32 is about 3000 RPM at 30v with an idle
> somewhere around 700RPM if I
> remember right. I have the specs at home.
>
> Using a PWM controller and disconnecting the shunt
> would result in an
> inefficient series motor. A 6.7" prestolite or an
> ADC 6.7 would be more
> efficient.
> I was planning to do the following for a controller:
> All you need is a rheostat that can handle about 10
> amps to control the
> speed. Perhaps a parallel/series split battery pack
> to run at 36v/72v.
> Sort of Lo/Hi speed range type of thing. Have it in
> 36v (parallel)mode
> for in town driving and for charging (less expensive
> chargers). Switch
> to 72v (series mode) for 45+ mph.
>
> > Stephen Paschke
> > AR Daemon, DAR, ERISA, Plan Review, and IPI/ICTMS
> support,
> >TIAA-CREF Denver
> > Senior Consultant
> > Keane, Inc.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of mike golub
> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 12:28 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: shunt motor controller?
>
> Hello
>
> I'm working on my metro conversion project.
> I got this g29 aircraft generator which is a shunt
> motor.
>
> I am in the process of building my own adapter plate
> and shaft coupler.
>
> I was thinking about direct drive, and shifting
> without the clutch.
>
> One big question is can I use one of those curtis
> series controllers with this shunt motor? If not are
> there any shunt motor controllers out there?
>
> Another question. I took the nut of the rear of the
> G29, and this long metal shaft came out, and now I
> have a small 16 teeth spline sticking out. Is that
> what people have been mounting the flywheel on?
> It seems I could make a new shaft that would have a
> better connecting piece?
>
> Again thanks in advance!
>
>
>
>
>
>
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rod,
The Solectria E10s use two BRUSA controllers, each powers an AC motor.
The two motors drive a single timing belt style pulley that is directly
connected to the drive shaft. The two controllers are synchronized to
eliminate jerking. If you have a solectria truck in your area you may
want to check it out, if not let me know and I can send you pictures of
mine.
Mario
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2007 14:46:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Rodney A" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Dual Controller/motors
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Hi All
Has anyone useddual controllers/motors in a vehicle?
If so, how do you
manage it? If you usedual motors with one for each
powered wheel, how do you
manage things likedifferential control?
I am looking atusing two Curtis or alltrax controllers
which actually work
out to be cheaperthan a larger controller, but am
trying to work out how to
synch them to worktogether, and wondering if anyone
else uses that setup!
Cheers
Rod
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just a thought, but you might try the charger on single phase. There is a
chance it might work just at a lower charge rate. This of course presumes
that it is settable for 240 volt and not a 460/480 volt only model. Is
there any information on it or a nameplate perhaps? Occasionally the
voltage conversion diagram is pasted to the inside of the door.
respectfully,
John
John Neiswanger
"The Skunk' http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751
----- Original Message -----
From: "mike golub" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: lectro electric forklift 30-24A
I haven't decided what to do with it.
My wife thinks I can get it working, but as a back-up
plan it will be used for ev parts.
Can the tires be upgraded for outdoor use?
I checked some of the batteries and they seem thirsty.
I didn't see a drop of liquid. The voltage of the 36
volt battery is 8volts.
I guess I can add some distilled water, and get a
charger on them. I have the charger it came with, but
it's 3 phase.
So I might have to get a 36volt charger or that 3
phase convector.
anyone have a SE-1072 that they done with?
Michael Golub
http://community.uaf.edu/~ffmig/home.htm
--- Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hey Mike
You're gonna have to ask Wayland on that one, he's
the
guy who removes the babies. I'm more like the guy
who
circomsizes them 8^o
I've seen the crazy crap forklift guys have to do,
that's why I don't do it, LMAO!
Hopfully John will chime in for you, although it
might
take a day or two. He called me today all in my
face
that he'd put that Cat motor back in "all by
himself"
all the while sounding like Shirly Temple on a
curtis
controller. I couldn't help but picture Wayland
walking out of Boyds with a bit of a limp. It was
hard to tell if it was the buldging 6 inch hernia or
if he was just thinking about playing with my
Siamese8
this weekend 8^o
Anyway when you get them out (after all the real
work
is done) let me know. If this is for EV consumtion
you should find nice keyed shafts. In fact I can't
remember having done a motor from a Lectro that
didn't
so hopefully that's some good news. Watch you'll be
that one, hehe.
Glad to hear all went well.
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
____________________________________________________________________________________
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel
sites to find flight and hotel bargains.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Since
> all the WarP9's now come with the CE shaft I'll have
> to implement the little
> spacer plate like I did on the Mitsu. Was really
> simple actually. Table sawed a piece of 1/4"
> aluminum plate, put some 3.5"
> pieces of cold rollled tubing in and some 3" bolts.
> The trick is getting the sensor mounting holes
> perfectly centered on the hole
> for the shaft. Now I could, if I was so inclined,
> mount a pulley onthe CE shaft and still run
> accessories off the dual 9's. What
> accessories I'd need I do not know.
Hey Mike
If you don't need the tailshaft just wack it off drill
and tap it and put on the one Otmar sells. He's got a
how to at his site to boot. You do have to open the
CE plate hole also. It's a little bit of work but
it's a nice install with a clean look and maintains a
shorter profile for anyone having a clearance issue.
I also like the fact that if machined properly it
snaps in real tight keeping moisture and crap from
entering the bearing area.
Just my take on it.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Eectric
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just get a variac and build a charger.
Bill
mike golub wrote:
I haven't decided what to do with it.
My wife thinks I can get it working, but as a back-up
plan it will be used for ev parts.
Can the tires be upgraded for outdoor use?
I checked some of the batteries and they seem thirsty.
I didn't see a drop of liquid. The voltage of the 36
volt battery is 8volts.
I guess I can add some distilled water, and get a
charger on them. I have the charger it came with, but
it's 3 phase.
So I might have to get a 36volt charger or that 3
phase convector.
anyone have a SE-1072 that they done with?
Michael Golub
http://community.uaf.edu/~ffmig/home.htm
--- Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hey Mike
You're gonna have to ask Wayland on that one, he's
the
guy who removes the babies. I'm more like the guy
who
circomsizes them 8^o
I've seen the crazy crap forklift guys have to do,
that's why I don't do it, LMAO!
Hopfully John will chime in for you, although it
might
take a day or two. He called me today all in my
face
that he'd put that Cat motor back in "all by
himself"
all the while sounding like Shirly Temple on a
curtis
controller. I couldn't help but picture Wayland
walking out of Boyds with a bit of a limp. It was
hard to tell if it was the buldging 6 inch hernia or
if he was just thinking about playing with my
Siamese8
this weekend 8^o
Anyway when you get them out (after all the real
work
is done) let me know. If this is for EV consumtion
you should find nice keyed shafts. In fact I can't
remember having done a motor from a Lectro that
didn't
so hopefully that's some good news. Watch you'll be
that one, hehe.
Glad to hear all went well.
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: Mike Golub
> Maybe I meant clutchless, not direct drive.
> Would clutchless work with the shunt motor?
Yes. Clutch vs. no clutch isn't affected (much) by the type of motor. It mainly
affects driveability. It's easier to shift with a clutch. Though, if your
motor/controller combination doesn't require much shifting, or your
transmission happens to be one that is easy to shift without a clutch, it
doesn't make much difference.
--
Lee Hart
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: john fisher
> what about having an intelligent on-off switch but no charger power
> supply at the battery, with a central charger? Is this what you guys
> call a BMS? Maybe it would have to be a Big Switch?
That's pretty much it. A BMS (Battery Management System) is anything that gives
you a way to charge different batteries by different amounts, so you can make
them all pull together as a team despite any differences between them.
--
Lee Hart
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Damn, how do you see out the windshield? I don't suppose drag racing is in
this beastie's future. I wonder how many Wh/Mi this
thing gets...the Animaris Rhinoceros that is :-O
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Jim Husted
> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 5:33 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Bob Schneveis' Walking Electric Chariot
>
>
> Hey Rod
>
> Just like I said the first time I saw it, I want one!
> I could have fun with that sucker on Halloween 8^)
> It popped this video up for me after that one which
> would even be better for scaring the kiddies, check
> this one, it could be an EV. How'd like to crunch
> through traffic on this, LMAO
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCsltP8TnOU&NR
>
> Anyway thanks for the link, just shows ya how many
> ways there is to skin that 'ol EV cat 8^)
>
> Cya
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Bored stiff? Loosen up...
> Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
> http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
HI Mario
That's very interesting. Yes, pictures would be great
(you can email me
directly). I'm in Australia, so nothing around here
remotely similar.
So it CAN be done! But is it better to connect the
motors together and then
to the drive shaft this way? Would you get the better
torque and
acceleration that way? Any other ways of doing it?
How are the controllers synch'd? So there is still a
differential then?
Thanks
Rod
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of DM3
Sent: Friday, 16 March 2007 4:22 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Dual Controller/motors
Rod,
The Solectria E10s use two BRUSA controllers, each
powers an AC motor.
The two motors drive a single timing belt style pulley
that is directly
connected to the drive shaft. The two controllers are
synchronized to
eliminate jerking. If you have a solectria truck in
your area you may
want to check it out, if not let me know and I can
send you pictures of
mine.
Mario
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2007 14:46:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Rodney A" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Dual Controller/motors
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Hi All
Has anyone useddual controllers/motors in a vehicle?
If so, how do you
manage it? If you usedual motors with one for each
powered wheel, how do you
manage things likedifferential control?
I am looking atusing two Curtis or alltrax controllers
which actually work
out to be cheaperthan a larger controller, but am
trying to work out how to
synch them to worktogether, and wondering if anyone
else uses that setup!
Cheers
Rod
____________________________________________________________________________________
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--- Begin Message ---
I too bought mine from ElectroAuto. I didn't make the measurements to
determine that the 4WD and 2WD Transmissions for the
Mitsubishi have different size bellhousings. So the first one I got didn't fit.
I sent drawings I made of the 4WD bellhousing
after I got the ICE out and they built it to the drawing. Now I suppose they
have another template for their library.
(Mike, Shari, if you're listening, for your template, run each of the holes for
the pilot bushings out .005" from the centerline
from the measurements I gave you for the distance between them. They were a
tad to close together. 5 minutes and a round file
and it fit snug as a bug all the way around :-)
I think the trick to the e-machine would be to have a known good library of
templates built up and indexed to the manufacturer's
part number for the tranny. That way the data could be cross referenced to
known builds and options for the production vehicle.
A person could find the shop that lists their particular and specific tranny
part number and just order without having to build a
drawing.
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 3:50 AM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Machining adapter plate via website
>
>
> I would recommend Electro Automotive. They know the often missed details
> involved in EV adaptors. Read this page
> carefully: http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/adaptors.shtml.
>
> They did my adaptor and it is truly a work of art!
>
> Ken
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Sent: Thu, 15 Mar 2007 6:21 AM
> Subject: Machining adapter plate via website
>
>
> Has anyone used emachineshop.com before? It looks like a great site, but the
> motor adapter plate is a high precision part. Do you recommend just finding a
> local shop to do it? I'm located in Los Angeles. Can anyone recommend a shop?
> Thanks!
>
> - Tony
> ________________________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from
> AOL at AOL.com.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Mike and All,
mike golub wrote:
Can the tires be upgraded for outdoor use?
No. It's strictly meant for warehouse floors and occasional paved
parking lot travel. You'll have to stick with pressed-on solid tires. It
takes 4000-8000 lbs. to press the tires on and off the hubs, if you're
so inclined.
I checked some of the batteries and they seem thirsty.
I think you mean 'cells' in the battery.
I didn't see a drop of liquid. The voltage of the 36
volt battery is 8volts.
I guess I can add some distilled water
Don't waste your time with distilled water, especially with an old tired
battery. Just use tap water, and make sure to not fill the cells up any
more than where you can just barely see water at the plate 'grid'
cover...no higher. The water can rise as much as 3 inches as the charge
comes up. Usually, you don't add water when the battery is discharged
and only add it after the battery is fully charged for this reason.
You'll want to know the ahr rating and 'C' rate of the battery in order
to know how to properly charge it. If you pull the insulator plastic
inter-cell strap cover from the one nearest the positive terminal,
you'll find some letters and numbers stamped into the lead. Check them
out, then email me and I'll decipher what it means for you. It will tell
you the manufacturer, the ahrs per plate, and the number of plates per
cell. The plate count number is always odd, not even, to make up for the
extra negative plate.
See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have a large variac, just stick the bridge on the
output? And set it to about 40 volts? To charge the
pack?
--- Bill & Nancy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Just get a variac and build a charger.
> Bill
>
> mike golub wrote:
>
> > I haven't decided what to do with it.
> > My wife thinks I can get it working, but as a
> back-up
> > plan it will be used for ev parts.
> >
> > Can the tires be upgraded for outdoor use?
> >
> > I checked some of the batteries and they seem
> thirsty.
> > I didn't see a drop of liquid. The voltage of the
> 36
> > volt battery is 8volts.
> >
> > I guess I can add some distilled water, and get a
> > charger on them. I have the charger it came with,
> but
> > it's 3 phase.
> >
> > So I might have to get a 36volt charger or that 3
> > phase convector.
> >
> > anyone have a SE-1072 that they done with?
> >
> > Michael Golub
> > http://community.uaf.edu/~ffmig/home.htm
> >
> > --- Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>Hey Mike
> >>
> >>You're gonna have to ask Wayland on that one, he's
> >>the
> >>guy who removes the babies. I'm more like the guy
> >>who
> >>circomsizes them 8^o
> >>
> >>I've seen the crazy crap forklift guys have to do,
> >>that's why I don't do it, LMAO!
> >>
> >>Hopfully John will chime in for you, although it
> >>might
> >>take a day or two. He called me today all in my
> >>face
> >>that he'd put that Cat motor back in "all by
> >>himself"
> >>all the while sounding like Shirly Temple on a
> >>curtis
> >>controller. I couldn't help but picture Wayland
> >>walking out of Boyds with a bit of a limp. It was
> >>hard to tell if it was the buldging 6 inch hernia
> or
> >>if he was just thinking about playing with my
> >>Siamese8
> >>this weekend 8^o
> >>
> >>Anyway when you get them out (after all the real
> >>work
> >>is done) let me know. If this is for EV
> consumtion
> >>you should find nice keyed shafts. In fact I
> can't
> >>remember having done a motor from a Lectro that
> >>didn't
> >>so hopefully that's some good news. Watch you'll
> be
> >>that one, hehe.
> >>
> >>Glad to hear all went well.
> >>
> >>Jim Husted
> >>Hi-Torque Electric
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> >
> >>Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> >>Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel
> >>sites to find flight and hotel bargains.
> >>http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> > TV dinner still cooling?
> > Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
> > http://tv.yahoo.com/
> >
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't pick lemons.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Where can I find a good contactor circuit for a shunt
motor?
Thanks in advance!
--- Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Bill Dennis wrote:
> > Are the contactors always breaking under full
> load, then, when you want to
> > stop supplying power to the motor?
>
> Not if designed properly. A good contactor
> controller brings the motor voltage
> and current up/down step by step, so there are no
> large transitions. They are
> arranged so no contact has to make or break full
> voltage or current. With the
> classic 3-step controller, no contact sees more than
> half the pack voltage
> and there are at least 3 contacts in series for
> every speed, so if one welds,
> the others can still stop you.
>
> However, it's tempting to cheapen a contactor
> controller to the point that
> these rules aren't met. The ones in Citicars and
> golf carts had nothing to
> prevent you from going from a dead stop to full
> speed, for example. And the
> rectactor circuit minimizes the number of
> contactors, so if one welds you
> can't turn it off.
> --
> Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel
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--- Begin Message ---
I had a thought, which may be stupid.
It may be possible to save some fabrication time and possbily money by
replacing the relay board and part of the control board with something
like this:-
http://cubloc.com/product/03_02.php
or this
http://cubloc.com/product/04_01cb280iobd.php
There would be some additional work needed to interface it to Lee's
control board (which you still need for the connection to the DC/DC
convertor and AC power line) so the net result may in fact be more time
but its probably worth considering, especially if you don't like
soldering.
On Wed, 2007-03-14 at 21:38 -0700, Rush wrote:
> Ian wrote -
>
>
> >I was looking through the archives and didn't see any specific list
> > of what all this stuff would do and what would be needed for how many
> > batteries and whatnot. Price as well? Could someone list this info
> > off again if they've got it handy?
>
> I've corresponded with Lee about his balancer and this is from his emails -
>
> "The "Battery Balancer" is what we're talking about here. That's what is
> described on the Balancerland website. And yes; it can function as a
> charger, DC/DC, monitor, and balancer. There are also other features,
> such as battery temperaturature monitoring and control, and controlling
> a separate main charger.
>
> As a charger, it is only charging one battery at a time. So, it would
> take a long time to fully charge a big pack all by itself. A single
> Vicor puts out 15a at 12v, and you can have two of them; this gives you
> a 30amp max charge rate per battery. For example, a pack of a dozen 12v
> batteries that are discharged 30ah discharge would take a minimum of 24
> hours to recharge (1 hour each for bulk, and 1 hour each for finishing).
>
> In my EV, I have twelve 12v batteries and only one Vicor. So, I have a
> separate "third world" charger which does the bulk charging (a big
> isolation transformer and rectifier). It does the bulk charging; then
> the Battery Balancer shuts it off and does the finishing charges.
>
> The PFCxx and Balancer do different things. The PFCxx is
> primarily a simple dumb charger that happens to be power factor
> corrected. When you add his Regulators, they just clamp the batteries at
> a particular voltage. It's is a dissipative process; it makes heat which
> you have to deal with. This means they will all be at the same state of
> charge at the end of a charge cycle (100% SOC). But it does nothing at
> all while parked or driving.
>
> The Balancer is primarily a charger *controller*, not the charger
> itself. It watches the main charger (which can be a PFC-xx) and can shut
> it off when "full".
>
> It then charges each battery individually to balance them. This process
> is non-dissipative (isn't burning up excesss charging energy as heat),
> so it can take place any time; while parked or driving as well as while
> charging.
>
> If your pack is well balanced, the Balancer spends most of its time as
> your DC/DC converter.
>
> For my Balancer, I figure I have to order about 10 sets of parts to even
> bother to make another batch of them. The 10-piece price is HALF
> the 1-piece price!"
>
>
> Rush
> Tucson AZ
> www.ironandwood.org
> www.Airphibian.com
>
--- End Message ---
