EV Digest 6562
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Ni-Cad AA batteries reading 0 volts
by "Dmitri" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Xenon Headlamp and LED Tail Lamp Conversions
by "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Free LEDs
by JS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: wall to road efficiency
by [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Dana Havranek)
5) Re: EV Acquisition Continuum
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: wall to road efficiency
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Xenon Headlamp and LED Tail Lamp Conversions
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Ni-Cad AA batteries reading 0 volts
by "Mick Abraham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: Altairnano Ultimatum
by Sam Maynard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: battery posts
by "Mick Abraham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: wall to road efficiency
by john fisher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: AC Drives on Ebay
by "FRED JEANETTE MERTENS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Ni-Cad AA batteries reading 0 volts
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: 640hp Mini
by "FRED JEANETTE MERTENS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Xenon Headlamp and LED Tail Lamp Conversions (long, sorry)
by "FRED JEANETTE MERTENS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) KillaCycle Video Display at MIT Museum
by Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Great Donor in the florida area?
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: wall to road efficiency
by "FRED JEANETTE MERTENS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Because of self-discharge. Try them.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Gamber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 5:49 PM
Subject: Ni-Cad AA batteries reading 0 volts
I just found a few Ni-cad AA batteries tucked away in a drawer today and
decided to test them. They all read 0 volts, are these batteries toast? I
haven't tried charging them yet and I don't thinlk they are that old. Can
they be revived? If so why does this happen?
_________________________________________________________________
Win a trip for four to a concert anywhere in the world!
http://www.mobilelivetour.ca/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One good reason to use LED lighting: smaller DC/DC converter. Those 12W
brake/turn/running lights and 4W marker lights add up.
4 markers (sides) + 2 brake + 2 tail + 4 turn signals + front running
lights
4x4 + 2x12 + 2x12 + 4x12 + 2x4 = 120W.
That's 8.5 to 10 amps from your DC/DC converter! Switching from a 600W to
400W DC/DC (or from 300W to 200W) could easily make up for the cost of the
LEDs. Most flashers will need replaced because they sense current.
Reasonably priced bulbs and flashers can be found @ www.superbrightleds.com
-Adrian
.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have replaced the dome light in my EV with 52 white LED's that are
brighter than the original bulb, at 1/4th the current.
I added a stop light at the top of the rear window. I am planning on
replacing some of the instrument panel lights
with LEDs. Tail lights/running lights to follow. No plans for
headlights (yet).
I have used them for night lights, and emergency exit lights, desk
lamps, and many other uses.
The source: Traffic light signals and Walk/Dont Walk signs bummed from
the trash of the local city
traffic light maintenance dept where my son works. These are high
intensity surface mount white and red. I am experimenting
with the super bright red/orange/green signal lights.
The walk/don't walk versions (29 white LEDs) will usually run directly
on 48v, but with careful work the surface mounts can
be removed and re-wired. I usually put 4 in series with a 39 ohm
resistor for 12 volts.
I have found very few defective LEDs, as most are trashed by the weekend
drunk driver.
I am sure there are other sources of free LEDs.
John in Sylmar, CA
PV EV (and one Incendiary Car)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Fred:
Ya, me too.
Age 53 and wanted to build an electric car since I was a kid.
Finally did.
Really neat how all of a sudden good parts have become available and the
internet has helped so much to bring everyone together.
(And get parts)
The thing I notice is the incredable power rush I get when I get back into my
ICE.
Just incredable! It's breath taking! The power density is absurd! I feel guilty
with all that power.
Does't take me long to fall into the same old habits.
(White-knuckled, first to the red light, but ahead of you)
But, ya, for sure. They both have their place.
Doctor Jekyll in my EV, Mr Hyde in my ICE...
Dana
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Fred Hartsell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I agree with you. I have both ICE and EV now and I like all of my cars. I
> use the ICE to go to work since my work is a 90 mile round trip commute. I
> also use the ICE to go on long trips. But I use the EV every chance that I
> get because it is fun to drive and I love just passing by the gas stations
> without stopping. I guess that I just don't care if I am saving a lot of
> money by driving the EV. I have always wanted to build an electric vehicle
> since I was knee high to a tad pole, :>). I am now 58 years old. So I have
> finally completed one of my dream goals. I have shown the truck to a lot of
> local people and there seems to be a lot of interest. I will be getting
> interviewed by our local paper tomorrow; weather permitting and I have just
> entered the truck in its first car show set for the end of this month. I
> really believe that the world is big enough for both ICE vehicles and EV
> vehicles. They both have their place for now.
>
> Freddie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randy Burleson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 2:55 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: RE: wall to road efficiency
>
> > Don't forget to subtract the oil changes, tune-ups,
> > muffler replacements, radiators, water pumps, etc.
> > that a gas version would normally go through.
> I'm entirely convinced that either the EV community is made up of people
> wholly cursed with their ICEs... or that generous logic is being applied
> to EVs, while pessimistic logic is applied to ICEs.
>
> Parked on my property I have:
> * 1993 3/4-ton Dodge turbo-diesel pickup - 168K
> * 1999 Subaru Legacy - 180K
> * 1990 Isuzu Amigo - 155K
> * 1989 Isuzu Amigo - 185K
> There have been an few significant failures to date, in well over 600K
> miles of use and abuse:
> - Subaru needed new camshaft seals, which required a significant degree
> of disassembly
> - 90 Amigo burst an oil line and dead-head driver failed (sadly: me) to
> notice the red light
> (gave me a great excuse to stuff a Mustang EFI 302 into it!)
>
> I live in CA -- cars seem to last forever (as do mufflers, radiators,
> and sheet metal). I do change the oil regularly on these vehicles, but
> that's pretty cheap except for the diesel. I have to smog the gassers
> every other year -- there's a cost that an EV Evades.
>
> I'm still planning an EV trike, but that's for fun -- I don't really
> expect that it will ever save me money unless the price of fuel spikes
> well beyond where it has been. Electricity has been increasing in cost,
> as especially have batteries...
>
> EVs are a valid choice. So are ICEs.
> They don't compare very well -- why must we slam one to appreciate the
> other?
>
> Randii
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 15 Mar 2007 at 0:36, Mike Harvey wrote:
> How about a nice graphic of your continuum?
That's far better than what I envisoned. I was thinking of a single axis,
but your 2-axis interpretation is much clearer.
Nicely done. If it's OK with you, I'll drop a copy of that graph into the
EVDL library.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
Some thoughts on the relative operation costs of EVs and ICEs.
1. I don't think it tells us much to hear anecdotal reports of people
driving ICEVs for 150,000 miles (or whatever) and spending $32.56 on
repairs. Such reports have no statistical meaning. The same vehicle could
have a $1500 failure next week.
2. If you do all your own work on your vehicles, your comparison will be
invalid for the person who hires all the work done on his. Labor and parts
markup is a principal factor.
3. Costs to maintain ICEs made 10 years ago can't be compared to costs for
current ICEs. While it's true that maintenance intervals are now much
longer, spare parts costs - and the labor required to replace them - have
gone through the roof. They may be cheap to drive for 100,000 miles, but
wait until you see what it costs to drive them 250,000 miles before you
declare them the victors in this race.
4. The automakers really, really want a couple of things - first, they want
you to use their expensive dealer service departments; and second, they want
you to replace the vehicle in 10 years or less.
5. There's no avoiding a simple fact - an EV drive system has a fraction of
the moving parts that an ICE drive has. With all the electronics in the
modern ICE, it has little if any advantage over a comparably equipped EV.
If produced in comparable quantity, and refined to a comparable degree, the
EV eventually almost >has< to win out in overall reliability and ownership
cost.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 16 Mar 2007 at 16:02, Martin Winlow wrote:
> I was wondering if any EV'ers out there have had any experiences with
> converting their halogen headlamps to Xenon and replacing incandescent
> tail/stop light bulbs with LED ones?
This has been discussed extensively in the past. Please search the
archives.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ev-list-archive/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ev/
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tim Gamber said:
"I just found a few Ni-cad AA batteries tucked away in a drawer today and
decided to test them. They all read 0 volts, are these batteries toast? I
haven't tried charging them yet and I don't thinlk they are that old. Can
they be revived? If so why does this happen?"
Mick says: If you surf over to www.teamnovak.com you'll find their "Flatline
Dead Short Battery Storage Tray". Quoting from the website: "Many racers
discharge their Ni-MH packs to 0 volts for storage as this has been thought
to increase performance in both older and newer cells." Further down the
page Ni-cads are also mentioned as being compatible with the Flatline cell
discharger.
Novak is big in the radio controlled toy world, and I've generally been
impressed by the technical acumen in that industry. It does seem that cell
reversal would be a possible problem with flatlined cells, but perhaps this
information will be helpful.
Mick Abraham
www.abrahamsolar.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What would be taking it the "wrong way"? I shared your exact
perspective about a month ago, giving the situation the benefit of the doubt, but instead of testing batteries, I ended up testing their integrity, giving them every opportunity to, and they failed to even give me a link to independently sourced data they said they had.
None of this episode was ever about helping out an EV hobbyist. It
was about providing a developmental company with an opportunity to prove their wares. I offered them the credentials of my Test Engineering background with NASA and Boeing, but they didn't care. A freak with a scooter was good enough!
As far as what batteries are in the Pheonix? Well, I saw with my
own eyes at the Solar conference something that looked like about a group 27 or 29 battery and it had an Altairnano logo on it. It appeared to even have an anode and cathode, but that's all I really know.
-Sam
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Altairnano Ultimatum
From: Frank John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Fri, March 16, 2007 3:17 pm
To: [email protected]
Please don't take this the wrong way, but they're probably busy trying
to build a new business with developing technology while coordinating everything that needs to be done in order to fulfill existing contracts while trying to provide a return for their shareholders. I would guess that helping out EV hobbyists isn't their first priority, regardless of any agreements or understandings that may have been made.
----- Original Message ----
From: Jessie Lubke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 5:35:57 PM
Subject: Re: Altairnano Ultimatum
Wow, Sam, this is a big bummer. I was really trying to keep the
faith in
Altair despite their suspicious behavior. Thanks for the footwork
you've
done - I'd certainly rather know the truth than sustain false
hope.
What do you think they've been using in those Phoenix cars? Phoenix
representatives claim that their vehicles run on Altairnano's
fancy
batteries.
jessielectric
On 3/16/07, Sam Maynard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Below is pasted plain text of my last communication to Altairnano,
which
> was in response to a phone call from their last rep that I was
"hot
> potatoed" to. In that conversation Bob Goebel stated he was
assigned
> to defend my "attack" on his boss, Al Gotcher, and used the excuse
that
> their was no paperwork, for which I had vouched. He also said
they had
> independent test results, but has failed to date to send me
those
> sources or results.
>
> So, the facts are:
>
> 1. Roy Graham and Veselin Manev of Altairnano made a verbal
agreement to
> send me a test pack at the October 2006 Solar conference in San
Jose,
> CA. Roy stated that they could make a pack available for a
road test
> in January of 2007. They requested I send test pack
requirements.
> Altairnano investor/Physicist Richard Morse was present as
witness.
>
> 2. I forwarded the requested technical requirements, and sample
test
> data using an old set of hawkers as "placeholders" (for emulating
the
> conditions the batteries would be subjected to), to Veselin Manev,
and
> didn't hear back.
>
> 3. Roy Graham left the company to become an "Alternative
Energy
> Consultant".
>
> 4. I followed through, and Al Gotcher, the new CEO, called me in
late
> January 2007. He offered that they might be able to provide a
90
> Amp-hr 12V cell to test, and I replied that that was inadequate for
the
> proposed road test per the requirements I had sent them
(absolute
> minimum 24V, but if they wanted valuable results, 48V). He
said he
> would talk to his "guys" and see what he could do.
>
> 5. I sent the ultimatum (which Bob Goebel called an "attack
directed at
> my boss"), posted earlier on this list, and enter Bob Goebel to
bring
> you up to date.
>
> So, while this may not be legal proof that they are a fraud, feel
free
> to spread the facts.
>
> The purpose of this test was to provide positive press for a
legitimate
> energy storage developer. Using my 20 mi/Kw-hr scoot, a GPS,
and
> battery/controller data acquisition, I can prove a given set
of
> batteries endured certain real road conditions (Pack Amps, Pack
Volts,
> Motor Amps, Diode Temperature, etc,) while I travelled a given
distance
> at a given speed and acceleration profile. Unlike racing,
this is a
> real world, practical application test. I would expect a
company with
> real technology would invite such a test, and follow through on
it,
> especially if I am willing to maintain confidentiality of results
until
> their approval and release of it, thereby eliminating any question
of
> the credibility of the results.
>
> -Sam
>
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Agreements and Data
> From: Sam Maynard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Fri, March 09, 2007 4:28 pm
> To: Bob Goebel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Dear Bob: Thanks for your follow-through regarding
independent
> testing of the Altairnano batteries. If you have links to
true,
> independent, objective test results of your Nano-Titanate cells,
please
> reply with links to that data and I will forward that information
to
> concerned entities (to remain confidential) that have been
anticipating
> test results from myself. As it is apparent that you
have only
> partial information regarding the history of the testing
agreement
> conversation between Altairnano and myself, I will briefly recap
for
> you. First, I have represented myself to Altairnano as an
individual
> with a background in R&D and test Engineering. "Electrikeel" is a
> domain name I have reserved for the work I perform in the
Marine
> Electrical and Navigation Electronics industry, and currently use
for
> email communication. At the Solar 2006 conference in San Jose
(October
> 2006), Roy Graham, Veselin Manev, and Altairnano Investor/Physicist
> Richard Morse were present when I presented a Newspaper article to
them
> publicizing a round-trip Port Townsend to Seattle, WA trip on a
custom
> electric vehicle I had designed and built. That is when a
verbal
> agreement was made to perform road testing on a prototype
Altairnano
> pack to be conducted in January of 2007. The test purpose was
to
> subject the batteries to real road travel operating conditions
and
> measure their performance, while using GPS data to prove the
vehicle
> travelled from point "A" to Point "B". Since that conference
I have
> vouched for the opportunity to sign necessary paperwork and perform
the
> testing. I have also provided battery pack test parameters
and sample
> test data, but Altairnano's response has been at best fragmented
to
> date, which is why we have no paperwork. Although I will
continue to
> avail myself if Altairnano is serious about a publicized "road
test", I
> am not going to continue to push for it, as there is nothing in it
for
> me other than a first-hand account of the performance of
your
> batteries. From what I can gather, the Li-Phosphate
technology has
> superior energy density performance and competitve performance
> characteristics in all other important areas pertinent to
Electric
> Vehicle applications, and I can get my hands on those cells in
2
> business days. I remain in the support of the development of
legitimate
> technologies that make a contribution to environmentally
responsible
> energy use, and wish Altairnano the best of luck in making
that
> contribution.
>
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: Altairnano Ultimatum
> From: "Jessie Lubke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Fri, March 16, 2007 12:05 pm
> To: [email protected]
>
> I assume you haven't received the test pack?
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545367
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
signemai1 Dave said:
I see I have a choice between an "S" post, or a high or low "L". I believe
I have the high "L" now.
Mick says: I don't know what an "S" post is, but I believe an "L" post looks
like a tiny tombstone with a hole through the face of it. If looked at from
the side this would have an "L" profile. A high L is just a taller
tombstone.
Dave said: "...should I have an "L", and if "L", should it be the high "L"?
Mick says: I think the high/low question depends on the width of your cable
lugs. If the pad on the lugs is broad, they'll bump on a low "L" terminal
unless you grind them down.
Mick Abraham
www.abrahamsolar.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Assuming we are talking about OEM vehicles, I think the reliability question is a red herring. The big goal is to get
greener vehicles on the road.
If we could get a solution to the problem of hydrogen supply and storage at reasonable cost, or a liquid fuel that
solved the greenhouse gas problem, then EVs sales would dry up until electrical storage leapfrogged the other solution.
Its just a question of which technologies work out, right?
Everything else is just playing with the technology that interests you. But
perhaps you don't agree?
David Roden wrote:
Some thoughts on the relative operation costs of EVs and ICEs.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
yes and the GE do have the electric brake terminal I do not get any chances
to open up the stuff I work with . we are very busy and a factory does not have
the time to fool with ( ? ) expendable ! parts . ? at least thaat is what we
are told .
----- Original Message -----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 12:01 AM
Subject: Re: AC Drives on Ebay
Most of the drives I have worked on have the DC buss on the terminal strip
between the Line in and the Motor out and labeled B+ and B-. Usually listed
in the documentation as the terminals for the dynamic braking module.
respectfully,
John
John Neiswanger
"The Skunk"
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751<http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751>
----- Original Message -----
From: "FRED JEANETTE MERTENS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
To: <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: AC Drives on Ebay
> how about GE drives you can disable their alarms easily bur I don't
> remember about the alarm for v in I know you can disable the current
> alarm but you will have to hack the dc to the dc bus .
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> To: Karl Nichols<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> ;
> [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]:[email protected]>>
> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 2:43 PM
> Subject: Re: AC Drives on Ebay
>
>
> A lot of the newer generation drives up to 3-5 hp are able to work off
> single phase input. I have even seen a couple that claimed to work off
> 120
> volt single phase input for under 1 hp. I have a couple on my lathe and
> drill press running off of 230 volt 1 phase and I like them for that.
> typically they are de-rated with the single phase input since only a
> portion
> of the input rectifier is being used.
>
> The problem is still the size is not large enough and we don't have any
> AC
> to show to the drive input. Actually it would be best if we could remove
> the input bridge rectifier and filter since we are talking about just
> feeding the DC buss directly.
>
> respectfully,
> John
>
> John Neiswanger
> "The Skunk"
>
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751<http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751<http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751%3Chttp://www.austinev.org/evalbum/751>>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karl Nichols" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>>;
> <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]:[email protected]>>>
> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 6:49 AM
> Subject: RE: AC Drives on Ebay
>
>
> I have worked with these drives and some years back I had wired a next
> generation unit to a Bridgeport Mill and ran it off 240V single phase. I
> simply added a second phase wire to the 3rd leg and this effectively
> worked
> to give a voltage input for all 3 phases. The motor was rated at 208V 3
> phase at 2hp it worked great and gave me a simple speed control.
>
> Karl Nichols
> Phoenix, AZ
>
> 05 Prius
> Looking for first full EV
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 11:14 PM
> To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]:[email protected]>>
> Subject: Re: AC Drives on Ebay
>
> >From the nameplate of the drive shown and the size of the cabinet those
> appear to be about 1 HP drives. The 1333 AB drive is about 5 or 6 series
> old and are probably early 1990s vintage.
>
> As James mentioned the AB drives have firmware that checks for incoming
> phase loss and I haven't found a simple way to fool it into thinking the
> incoming lines are there.
>
> I have been asking every industrial drives distributer I deal with about
> using their drives with a DC input and have not had much positive
> feedback.
> I was able to talk to another one today at a seminar and he actually was
> encouraging so I will see what he is able to come up with. He actually
> admitted to doing a conversion in college back in the early 90s so he may
> be
>
> more sympathetic to the problem.
>
> respectfully,
> John
>
> John Neiswanger
> "The Skunk"
>
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/preview.php?vid=751<http://www.austinevorg/evalbum/preview.php?vid=751<http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/previewphp?vid=751<http://www.austinevorg/evalbum/preview.php?vid=751>>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John G. Lussmyer"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]>>>
> To: "EV Discussion List"
> <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]:[email protected]>>>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 5:06 PM
> Subject: AC Drives on Ebay
>
>
> >I was searching around on Ebay, and found these:
> >
> > ALLEN BRABLEY ADJUSTABLE FREQUENCY AC MOTOR DRIVES
> >
> > Item number: 260094665248
> >
> > I wonder how hard it would be to adapt these to an EV usage....
> >
> > --
> > John G. Lussmyer
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> > Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
>
http://www.CasaDelGato.com<http://www.casadelgato.com/<http://www.casadelgato.com%3chttp//www.casadelgato.com/>>
> >
> >
>
>
>
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--- Begin Message ---
From: Tim Gamber
> I just found a few Ni-cad AA batteries tucked away in a drawer today
> and decided to test them. They all read 0 volts; are these batteries
> toast? ... Can they be revived? If so why does this happen?
Nicads have a fairly high self-discharge rate. If they've been sitting for a
year or more, they just go dead from self-discharge. On nicads, this is
harmless. In fact, they often ship new nicads dead.
All you have to do is put them in a normal nicad charger, and they will charge
normally..
But... if these nicads were used in something until they RAN DEAD under load,
there is a high probability that one or more cells got reversed. Reversing a
cell happens when you have more than one cell in series, and one cell goes
completely dead (0 volts) while the other cells still have voltage. The good
cells force current to keep flowing through the dead cell, which reverses its
polarity.
Reversing a nicad cell tends to short it out. This causes serious damage, and
is not fully reversible. The symptom will be that the cell can't be charged; it
remains at zero volts even when put on charge.
You can sometimes "burn out" the short by applying a high current pulse,
usually from a charged nicad, big power supply, or by charging a big capacitor
and discharging it into the cell. The drawback is that this leaves a hole in
the separator between the plates; the cell's self-discharge rate will be very
high, and it is very likely to short again. So, this is only useful as a
quick-and-dirty fix.
--
Lee Hart
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the 0 - 60 time was first used when we started to drive on interstste hwy and
freeways that were made for speed . it was a way to gauge if the car we were
buying had the ability to get up to freeway speed AND merge without causing a
traffic jam . it was never intended to be a speed way stat. or racing stat .
and I still use it that way .
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: David Dymaxion<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 6:48 PM
Subject: Re: 640hp Mini
I was following your argument until your last line, sticky track and
drag mods ?
The 0-60 time is good for measuring accelration, and acceleration is
all about torque delivery versus inertia forces.
It is quoted for cars not on the track, not with sticky tyres, but
under normal circumstances to enable the average driver to be able to
connect with the information.
Someone could tell me that their car ran an impressive x.x 1/4 mile
but can you then actually take that and apply it on the road ?
I don't think the Veyron is as extreme as you need to go in order to
draw comparisons either, the Radical S3 and the Areil Atom are
production cars with small engines and very fast 0-60 times and high
final speeds.
I think there's some merit in the 1/4 mile statistic, it takes the
car out if it's normal acceleration versus top speed gearing scenario
by demanding that it accelrates fast and reaches a high top speed.
That makes the quarter mile a race about torque.
The Veyron is big and heavy with a brute motor in order to move it,
the two cars I mentioned are small and light athletic motors and they
achieve similar results, but for me , what it all comes down to is
how well the car deals with the corners.
Fast in a straight line is easy, because it's all torque, but speed
with agility means I don't need to slow too much for the bends, I can
achieve a high exit speed to get a maintain a high average speed, and
still only have 4 piston ring sets to replace at the weekends ;-o)
Chris
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, David Dymaxion <[EMAIL
PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Whoo-hoo, I knew this would be fun! :)
>
> Major disconnect! When I think 0-60 mph, I think of what you can
read in Motor Trend and Road and Track. When I hear "60 foot time"
or "1/4 mile time" or "trap speed" I think drag racing. 0 to 60 mph
is not officially measured at the track. So true you didn't limit
yourself to production cars, but you have to admit 0-60 is the
vernacular of the car magazines more than the drag strip.
>
> Given that mind set, you are going to have alot of trouble finding
a Motor Trend 0-60 time of 2.X seconds (Bugatti Veyron being a
notable exception). These are cars as you can buy them, that can be
driven 100,000+ miles with no problems, on tires that last 30k+ miles.
>
> To get 2.x seconds takes things like drag tires, 90/10 shocks, a
well prepped sticky track surface, a stout differential, traction
bars... (hmmm, starting to sound like White Zombie!). Just throwing
horsepower at the problem won't do it, at a minimum good tires are
needed, even on an AWD.
>
> So I still stand by my statement that it is unreasonable to expect
the Mini as pictured, even if it had 640 hp of lithium batteries on
board, to do 0-60 mph in 2.X seconds. They would be smart to slap on
some drag slicks, go to a really sticky track, and do a big warmup
burnout first -- but this too would be a marketing number, not
achievable in street driving.
>
> Which leads to an interesting question: The Tzero and Tesla do 0-60
in around 3.6 seconds and 4 seconds. How much better would they be if
they had all the drag race mods, and ran on a sticky track?
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 9:31:51 AM
> Subject: Re: 640hp Mini
>
> ...
> >0 to 60 mph (~100 km/hr) in 2 seconds? What can do that?
>
> Any car the approximate size and weight of that Mini and packing a
> 'real' 640 hp!
>
> Vehicles at the track I witness first hand that can run low 10
second -
> high 9 second 1/4 mile ETs, run 0-60 in under 3 seconds. Those that
run
> in the low nines - high 8s are doing it in the 2-2.5 second range.
> ...
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
> (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
> http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265<http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265>
>
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I got red and clear leds from pep boys if I remember the price was about $5.
ea size was a 1156 they did not have 1157 at that time . am using the on my
bradley for turn ,tail and brake lights total 9 per side . and then the front
turns .
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Brinkman<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 2:13 PM
Subject: RE: Xenon Headlamp and LED Tail Lamp Conversions (long, sorry)
Martin,
I am in the process of changing the marker lights on my 1973 30 foot travel
trailer to LED commercial truck style marker lights. Bought at a commercial
truck brake supply house, the lights were about $9 each. The existing wiring
and connections were corroded, and several items were mis-wired over the years,
making a regular bulb impossible to light up. With the LED lights, so little
current is used that the first light was bright from the start, in spite of the
corrosion etc. As I worked myself around the trailer, it was easy to strip
back the existing wire to clean copper, trouble shoot for the correct wiring,
install the light and move on. I did 1/3 of the trailer each six months, as
the trailer was moved or used, and this weekend will do the last leg. Thirteen
lights times $9 is expensive. Next I will change out the rear brake lights and
turn signals for LED units, expensive again, maybe $35 X 2, but again, a
marginal connection will give bright lights, and save !
th!
e frustration of a trailer with one bulb not working.
A vehicle where you change out the bulbs for LED bulbs needs the flasher
looked at. Some of the flashers need a load to work properly.
Clear LED lights are very expensive currently. I wanted to add some for
lighting for the trailer to make the battery last longer when camping. I was
quoted over $100 for a large round back up style LED lamp like the diesel
trucks use. I will use fluorescent for the trailer interior.
To make this EV List appropriate, my daughter has a Razor E200 stand up
electric scooter that I am chief mechanic for. She rides down our street a lot
a night, and it was not making me happy. I installed one LED marker light on
the front handle-bars, and one on the rear fender, wired them in series for
24v, the battery is 24v, and wired them to the on switch. Day or night, when
she rides the Razor, the marker lights are on. They are very visible at night.
After about two years of use, I have replaced the throttle handle once, the
belt twice, and the motor twice. It now has a larger motor, fit by removing
some metal from the frame, and moving the kick stand. Riding through moisture,
like crossing a wet curb, is hard on the motors, and over-speeding down hill is
an instant death of a motor. She is careful now, and the last motor is going
to last a long time.
Alan Brinkman
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tony Hwang
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 9:29 AM
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Xenon Headlamp and LED Tail Lamp Conversions
don't do it for energy savings, the difference isn't worth it. Say you write
for an hour, the Xenon bulbs you mention will only save you 30Wh!
If you were doing 60, and you needed 250Wh/mile, in that hour you'd have gone
60 miles, and spent 15000Wh. So, saving 30Wh won't be noticeble at all. :)
- Tony
----- Original Message ----
From: Martin Winlow <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 9:02:04 AM
Subject: Xenon Headlamp and LED Tail Lamp Conversions
Hi,
I was wondering if any EV'ers out there have had any experiences with
converting their halogen headlamps to Xenon and replacing incandescent
tail/stop light bulbs with LED ones?
I appreciate the cost is significant - £100 for a bi-Xenon (ie includes main
and dipped beam facility) kit instead of a few pounds for a halogen bulb and
£4 or so for an LED 'bulb' as opposed to about 50p for an incandescent one.
However, the Xenon lamps only use about half the power that a halogen one
uses (35W Vs 65W), the light is much easier to see in, they are considerably
more powerful and last about 10 times as long (apparently). Much the same
can be said for the LED tail lights.
Any thoughts?
MW
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I have just been informed that video footage of the KillaCycle is on
display in the emerging technologies section of the MIT museum. 8-)
The main theme of the display is the Li-Ion battery technology (now
licensed by A123 Systems) that was developed at MIT. The KillaCycle
is a demonstration of that uniquely-powerful battery technology.
If any of you listers in Boston happen to drop by the MIT museum to
see the display, let us all know how it looks.
Bill Dube'
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ebay# 290094768155
A red 2000 insight with bad ICE. I asked about how much to ship to
Fresno,Ca and he said about $1000.
I have always wanted to take an insight and yank the ice then see if I
can put 3 or 4 IMA systems on a common shaft in the exact location the
ICE was.
4 ??6.5ah 288v ?? nimh packs, 4 controllers and 4 motors in a
lightweight, aero donor. Probably a great 20 mile commutter.
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hi fred : Dana I have also wanted to build my own ev since 71 -71 when I was
deployed to the P.I. and am 58 am finally getting around to it and really am
enjoying the process . it is worth it for the sense of accomplishment I am
going the kit car (Bradley gt2 ) route with old dc technology because of the
cost but one day I will go ac with regen
----- Original Message -----
From: Dana Havranek<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 5:36 PM
Subject: RE: wall to road efficiency
Hi Fred:
Ya, me too.
Age 53 and wanted to build an electric car since I was a kid.
Finally did.
Really neat how all of a sudden good parts have become available and the
internet has helped so much to bring everyone together.
(And get parts)
The thing I notice is the incredable power rush I get when I get back into my
ICE.
Just incredable! It's breath taking! The power density is absurd! I feel
guilty with all that power.
Does't take me long to fall into the same old habits.
(White-knuckled, first to the red light, but ahead of you)
But, ya, for sure. They both have their place.
Doctor Jekyll in my EV, Mr Hyde in my ICE...
Dana
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Fred Hartsell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> I agree with you. I have both ICE and EV now and I like all of my cars. I
> use the ICE to go to work since my work is a 90 mile round trip commute. I
> also use the ICE to go on long trips. But I use the EV every chance that I
> get because it is fun to drive and I love just passing by the gas stations
> without stopping. I guess that I just don't care if I am saving a lot of
> money by driving the EV. I have always wanted to build an electric vehicle
> since I was knee high to a tad pole, :>). I am now 58 years old. So I have
> finally completed one of my dream goals. I have shown the truck to a lot of
> local people and there seems to be a lot of interest. I will be getting
> interviewed by our local paper tomorrow; weather permitting and I have just
> entered the truck in its first car show set for the end of this month. I
> really believe that the world is big enough for both ICE vehicles and EV
> vehicles. They both have their place for now.
>
> Freddie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randy Burleson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 2:55 AM
> To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
> Subject: RE: wall to road efficiency
>
> > Don't forget to subtract the oil changes, tune-ups,
> > muffler replacements, radiators, water pumps, etc.
> > that a gas version would normally go through.
> I'm entirely convinced that either the EV community is made up of people
> wholly cursed with their ICEs... or that generous logic is being applied
> to EVs, while pessimistic logic is applied to ICEs.
>
> Parked on my property I have:
> * 1993 3/4-ton Dodge turbo-diesel pickup - 168K
> * 1999 Subaru Legacy - 180K
> * 1990 Isuzu Amigo - 155K
> * 1989 Isuzu Amigo - 185K
> There have been an few significant failures to date, in well over 600K
> miles of use and abuse:
> - Subaru needed new camshaft seals, which required a significant degree
> of disassembly
> - 90 Amigo burst an oil line and dead-head driver failed (sadly: me) to
> notice the red light
> (gave me a great excuse to stuff a Mustang EFI 302 into it!)
>
> I live in CA -- cars seem to last forever (as do mufflers, radiators,
> and sheet metal). I do change the oil regularly on these vehicles, but
> that's pretty cheap except for the diesel. I have to smog the gassers
> every other year -- there's a cost that an EV Evades.
>
> I'm still planning an EV trike, but that's for fun -- I don't really
> expect that it will ever save me money unless the price of fuel spikes
> well beyond where it has been. Electricity has been increasing in cost,
> as especially have batteries...
>
> EVs are a valid choice. So are ICEs.
> They don't compare very well -- why must we slam one to appreciate the
> other?
>
> Randii
>
>
>
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