EV Digest 6574
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: [turlockfreecycle] 1982 Supra for parts
by "mike young" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: 5-mph bumper removal
by "Alan Gideon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Wanted: Donation Electric Vehicle - a car, truck, or scooter, even
without batteries
by Dmitri <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Fw: [turlockfreecycle] 1982 Supra for parts
by "Sean Korb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Live from PIR, Fireball Incident
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: 5-mph bumper removal
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Would any EV groups like a "motor info" FAQ's page?
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Would any EV groups like a "motor info" FAQ's page?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
9) RE: Live from PIR, Fireball Incident
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Live from PIR, Fireball Incident
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: [turlockfreecycle] 1982 Supra for parts
by "Dave Wilker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: Free LEDs
by "Alan Brinkman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) G-Wiz on Ebay
by "Martin Winlow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Live from PIR, Fireball Incident
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Better Data Logging Options?
by john fisher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) newbie question - starter motor base yard kart
by Joe Batt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Live from PIR, Fireball Incident
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: newbie question - starter motor base yard kart
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: newbie question - starter motor base yard kart
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: newbie question - starter motor base yard kart
by "Alan Brinkman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: newbie question - starter motor base yard kart
by Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Live from PIR, Fireball Incident
by Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: newbie question - starter motor base yard kart
by Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
i will come and tow away today if your not too far. i am in newark. mike
young 315 331 5336 or send your phone # and i can call you.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Wilker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 5:13 AM
Subject: Fw: [turlockfreecycle] 1982 Supra for parts
Someone need this?
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lady Anne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 2:52 PM
Subject: [turlockfreecycle] 1982 Supra for parts
Looking for someone to tow it away, needs two tires to do that. Engine
and tranny blown, body in good condition, no broken glass. Perfect
parts car for someone with a working version. 1982 body, 1983 engine.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Unfortunately, we live in a litigious society and trials are all about the
ability to sway others by argument - not about justice. If I were a lawyer,
I would argue that replacing your bumpers shows disregard for the safety of
others, which is why my client will suffer for years on end from the
whiplash you induced. That might be a total crock, but I'd still make the
argument if I thought it could give me the win.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 10:30 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: 5-mph bumper removal
Your safe, any additional damage anyone could argue would be speculative to
the point of immaterial. Least to mention that no one would notice anyway.
Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Gabrielsson"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 7:22 AM
> Subject: 5-mph bumper removal
>
>
> > I was wondering if anyone has any experience or insight into the
> > consequences of removing the 5 mph bumpers on my Fiat 124 and
> > replacing them with the pre 1975 bumpers. I guesstimate they weigh at
> > least 75 lbs, so I can probably save >50 lbs by replacing them with
> > the lighter earlier bumpers. It's not all that much but handling wise
> > the weight is in the worst possible place and they're ugly.
> >
> > What I'm most concerned with is insurance, I don't intend to insure
> > the car for damages to it but I'm wondering if the insurance company
> > will still try to use the fact that I didn't have the original bumpers
> > as a way to get out of paying damages to the other vehicle in the
> > event of a fender bender.
> >
> >
> > --
> > www.electric-lemon.com
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tell us how it's done.
On 3/20/07, robert mat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Wanted: Donation Electric Vehicle - a car, truck, or scooter, even
without batteries
Hi, we're looking for an EV donation vehicle to be used as a data-logging
project for Revived Batteries (see link below) and to go on a
roadshow/demonsration in the war against Climate Change. Batteries not
included, as the joke goes, because we've got plenty of free batteries.
Do you have a mothballed EV? An EV with weak or dying batteries? If you
read the new book, "Lives Per Gallon", you'll understand why this project is
important. Thanks for all replies.
Here's the website for our first revived battery electric vehicle project:
http://electric-pickup.blogspot.com/
http://tv-news-revived-batteries.blogspot.com/
We've learned a lot in the last month, and we are very close to being able
to create battery packs that will have a running cost that is less than half
that of gasoline vehicles.
In my view, the remaining job in EV development is to lower the battery
cost to below that gasoline. In our particular case, we've already run
several electric bikes on revived batteries reliably for years -- now, we'd
like to fully transfer this knowhow to electric cars/trucks.
Please call Rob at ( 6 0 4 ) 7 3 9 - 7 7 1 7
Have you read the new book, "Lives Per Gallon"?
Please help to spread the word about
'no cost' batteries for electric/gas vehicles:
http://tv-news-revived-batteries.blogspot.com/
---------------------------------
Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check.
Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 3/20/07, Dave Wilker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Someone need this?
I used to. http://www.suprang.com
I originally thought I was going to turn it into a turbine electric
hybrid... but plans change. It's a heavy car, but luxurious and comfortable
to ride in. Plenty of room for batteries if you carve up the trunk a bit,
and a long hood for more. The rear springs have plenty of access to change
them for heavier items, and the rear shocks are standard if you want to put
some air shocks in there instead. Springs would be better. Fully
independent suspension, 4 wheel disk brakes, great ergonomics. Weight would
probably be close to an S-10 conversion so choose a motor accordingly.
--
Sean Korb [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.spkorb.org
'65, '68 Mustangs, '68 Cougar, '78 R100/7, '71 Pantera #1382
"The more you drive, the less intelligent you get" --Miller
"Computers are useless. They can only give you answers." -P. Picasso
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Tim, John, all
--- Tim Brehm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hey Jim,
> I don't want to scare you here, but it wasn't so
> much a noise as a feeling in the car. It felt to me
> like the rear armature was spinning on the shaft.
> While toward the end of the fourth run I felt
> something slip (like when strip the axle splines or
> a yoke spline). I thought I just hit a slick spot in
> the track. A spinning armature would explain the
> overheating and the arcing of the rear motor (the
> front motor was still just warm to the touch).
Well that's one of my more nightmarish pictures
floating around in my head, let's hope thats not the
case.
Actually what I'm hoping you felt was the armature
rubbing against the poleshoes on that back side.
After the Woodburn flash, I noticed that the arm had
rubbed against them (back motor side only)
This would explain the back motor heat, the knocking
you heard and the drag you felt and would have helped
the flashover, sure wouldn't have helped, LMAO!
In fact being that at least one full 3rd of that motor
is just hanging there unmounted, which I know I have
told both you and John about a few times.
What I believe is happening is that the rear output
side is being allowed to torque over enough to allow
the arm to hit. Hopefully this is what I'll find. If
it is you boys are gonna need to find a way to mount
that ass end own and keep it from shaking it's booty,
LMAO.
If it is a spun shaft that's bad as it will have
wallowed out the armature bore hole which will cause a
new arm body to be needed, as well as a new shaft
probably, so lets not go there, OKAY???
I guess we'd learn at what torque the arms can't hold
on to the carnival ride any longer though, huh?
Like I told John, no point arguing about how many
teeth a camel has. More accurate to just go open the
mouth and count them. Won't know nothing till you two
pull it and get it to me.
> As
> far as I know the motor limit was set at 170 volts,
> however the lowest pack voltage I saw was 225 volts
> at the end of the run while the motors were still
> pulling 800 amps when I crossed the finish line.
Having fun are we?? LMAO!
> Looking at the positive side of things, we
> don't seem to be as battery limited this year. The
> new pack was just warm to the touch after five
> pretty hard runs. This was very encouraging, besides
> Jim, you said you wanted try try a couple more
> tricks on the motor.
> You know the only time your going to see this
> motor out of the car is when it's broken ; - P
>
> Tim
Well isn't John training you up right! Get her pulled
so I can get a look.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.
http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=120121
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That's why the replacement bumpers should preform
better than the old ones.
--- Alan Gideon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Unfortunately, we live in a litigious society and
> trials are all about the
> ability to sway others by argument - not about
> justice. If I were a lawyer,
> I would argue that replacing your bumpers shows
> disregard for the safety of
> others, which is why my client will suffer for years
> on end from the
> whiplash you induced. That might be a total crock,
> but I'd still make the
> argument if I thought it could give me the win.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 10:30 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: 5-mph bumper removal
>
> Your safe, any additional damage anyone could argue
> would be speculative to
> the point of immaterial. Least to mention that no
> one would notice anyway.
>
> Bill
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Peter Gabrielsson"
> > To:
> > Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 7:22 AM
> > Subject: 5-mph bumper removal
> >
> >
> > > I was wondering if anyone has any experience or
> insight into the
> > > consequences of removing the 5 mph bumpers on my
> Fiat 124 and
> > > replacing them with the pre 1975 bumpers. I
> guesstimate they weigh at
> > > least 75 lbs, so I can probably save >50 lbs by
> replacing them with
> > > the lighter earlier bumpers. It's not all that
> much but handling wise
> > > the weight is in the worst possible place and
> they're ugly.
> > >
> > > What I'm most concerned with is insurance, I
> don't intend to insure
> > > the car for damages to it but I'm wondering if
> the insurance company
> > > will still try to use the fact that I didn't
> have the original bumpers
> > > as a way to get out of paying damages to the
> other vehicle in the
> > > event of a fender bender.
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > www.electric-lemon.com
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Kaido Kert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Wouldnt it make sense to keep the FAQ in a wiki
> form, editable to
> anyone who cares to contribute ? There is just such
> a wiki up on
> http://www.seattleeva.org/wiki/Electric_motor
Hey all
Keep the questions coming via list or private, the
more I know what you all look for and want to see the
better I'll be able to address them. As to where and
how to post, I'll just throw it out there and let you
all post it where and how, as you feel fit 8^)
Much thanks for the input, I've sorted the questions
into a FAQ folder and will get on it as time allows.
I'll have a look there as well as at EV parts and see
where I could add and address further what I find
there.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I think this is an excellent idea and would love to have Jim's wisdom and
tricks kick start the process.
via Treo
David Hrivnak
-----Original Message-----
From: "Kaido Kert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subj: Re: Would any EV groups like a "motor info" FAQ's page?
Date: Tue Mar 20, 2007 5:12 am
Size: 3K
To: [email protected]
Wouldnt it make sense to keep the FAQ in a wiki form, editable to
anyone who cares to contribute ? There is just such a wiki up on
http://www.seattleeva.org/wiki/Electric_motor
-kert
On 3/20/07, Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hey all
>
> Well there looks like some intrest so I'm willing to
> throw down on some DC motor stuff. Looking at
> Massey's stuff though I'm not sure I have time for 7
> years of college 8^P In general I'd say I'm more the
> brawn (yep all 150lbs.) of the group than the brains.
> With that said I'd be more than happy to compile some
> of Junkyard Jim's woorrrds of wisdom. I'm sure I got
> a couple more wheelbarrel stories in me but lets all
> hope Lee and Jeff will shed some light on some of the
> brainier questions 8^) I've often wondered how scary
> I'd be if I could cram Lee's brain in my head LMAO!
> What? you guys never think about that kind of stuff?
>
> Anyway I like to fancy myself a writer at least I
> enjoy doing it 8^) I write murder mystery partys and
> invite 30 of my friends and kill one, as a hobby LMAO!
> Now that I think of it maybe I'm the evil twin, makes
> more sense hehe.
>
> Anyway I'm glad there is intrest. The way I see it
> regardless of why your an EV'er if you aren't out
> trying to spread it to the average Joe you might want
> to ask yourself why you are 8^) I thought this would
> be a great way to share what I know. Hopefully those
> in thier fields feel the same and we'll update and add
> to some FAQ's pages.
>
> I'll keep the list informed, probably throw out some
> pre finished so the sharks can clean it up before it's
> posting?
>
> Ohh I brought up the muder mystery thing cause I've
> been taking notes on all you crazies and there are
> more charaters here than anyone could shake a stick
> at. A "who killed the electric car driver" party
> sounds really fun. I can think of at least one guy
> I'd like to kill right now 8^o
>
> Anyway this'll give me something positive to focus on
> right now.
>
> Cya
> Jim Husted
>
>
>
>
>
> --- David Roden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > On 19 Mar 2007 at 12:58, James Massey wrote:
> >
> > > motor based FAQ page
> >
> > I'd be willing to host such a critter on evdl.org.
> > The only caveat is that
> > I don't support dynamic content control and Jim
> > would have to email any
> > updates to me to post for him.
> >
> >
> > David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> > EV List Administrator
> >
> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> > = = = = = = =
> > Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while
> > you're on vacation,
> > or switch to digest mode? See how:
> > http://www.evdl.org/help/
> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> > = = = = = = =
> > Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses
> > will not reach me.
> > To send a private message, please obtain my email
> > address from
> > the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> > = = = = = = =
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and
> hotel bargains.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >rear armature was spinning
> >on the shaft.
> Jim,
> I was wondering how these shafts are pressed on the
> rotor? On my BLDC motors that have a 1" diameter
> shaft, we press in 0.005" splines times 8 around the
> diameter of the shaft, so it's kind of a press fit.
> Are these shafts keyed?
> Just curious.
> Thanks,
> Rod
Hey Rod
ADC's are not keyed and are held by just 4 to 6, 3"
long straight knurl lines that run along the shaft.
Probably smoke your guys minds how little there is
holding it on. Hey maybe that's why I'm so insane,
I've seen it, hehe.
Dutchmans shaft is different. He splined the shaft
the whole way down. When we pressed it in, the spline
teeth actually pressed into the laminations acting
like a broach creating lots of bite on that shaft.
This is why I'm doubting / hoping this didn't happen.
Specially if you look at I repressed the front arm off
once just to see if I could 8^o , actually I needed to
dress up that middle bearing journal a bit. If any
arm were to slip I'd have thought it'd be the front
one.
Dutchman actually made me two small sample shafts to
press and test with to see where to get that final
diameter so much trial and error went into making that
shaft. Yeah John felt all I did was sit on my ass all
those months but there's more to it than most would
think.
BTW yes, I've seen a number of spun loose arm shafts
in just the forklift world so this was a major concern
for me as I built up the Siamese8, there's not
anywhere near 772 ft.lbs. of torque on those so Keith
and I spent much time on this issue. Here's hoping we
got that right.
Anyway just thought I'd chime in on the pressing
aspect.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
____________________________________________________________________________________
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel
bargains.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to Tim and All,
Tim Brehm wrote:
the lowest pack voltage I saw was 225 volts at the end of the run while the motors were still pulling 800 amps when I crossed the finish line.
Correction...that would be 225 volts and 800 'battery amps', not motor
amps. That BIG gauge on the left Tim, is battery amps, not motor amps.
The motor amps were closer to 1100 amps. That's actually very
encouraging to hear, that is, that the battery amps programmed to hold
at 1000 amps, were just ramping down slightly at the end of the run.
That means that the new stout pack probably delivers 1000 amps for most
of the 1/4 mile run, and it means that the motors are still getting some
serious amps at the far end of the track!
Of note everyone, the previous two packs from '05 and '06 would sag to
180 volts at about the 2/3 point of the run down the track. This is a 45
volt rise under load, with the batteries still not yet fully broken in.
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike
I don't have the car. It belongs to the lady in the body of the email
([EMAIL PROTECTED]). Good luck!
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "mike young" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 4:21 AM
Subject: Re: [turlockfreecycle] 1982 Supra for parts
i will come and tow away today if your not too far. i am in newark. mike
young 315 331 5336 or send your phone # and i can call you.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Wilker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 5:13 AM
Subject: Fw: [turlockfreecycle] 1982 Supra for parts
Someone need this?
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lady Anne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 2:52 PM
Subject: [turlockfreecycle] 1982 Supra for parts
Looking for someone to tow it away, needs two tires to do that. Engine
and tranny blown, body in good condition, no broken glass. Perfect
parts car for someone with a working version. 1982 body, 1983 engine.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Matt,
Surplus Center has two red led traffic signal light fixtures that were
removed from service, $14.95. Here is the link:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007032010464655&item=11-3160-
D&catname=electric
Alan Brinkman
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 7:47 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Free LEDs
In a message dated 3/16/2007 4:40:16 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
The source: Traffic light signals and Walk/Dont Walk signs bummed from
the trash of the local city
traffic light maintenance dept where my son works.
Any chance you will find you have "enough" of these and can start
selling
them to your fellow Listers?
Sounds like VERY nice light sources!
Thanks
Matt Parkhouse
(who is using LEDS for head, tail and brake lights on my EV
three-wheeler)
************************************** AOL now offers free email to
everyone.
Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
... if anyone's interested (and if you were, I think you would have to be a
female of the species)...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GWiz-Electric-Car-G-Wiz-g-wiz-electric-vehicle-EV_W0QQ
itemZ150103502364QQcategoryZ18308QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
MW
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: Live from PIR, Fireball Incident
> Hello to Tim and All,
>
> Tim Brehm wrote:
>
> >the lowest pack voltage I saw was 225 volts at the end of the run while
the motors were still pulling 800 amps when I crossed the finish line.
> >
> >
> Correction...that would be 225 volts and 800 'battery amps', not motor
> amps. That BIG gauge on the left Tim, is battery amps, not motor amps.
> The motor amps were closer to 1100 amps. That's actually very
> encouraging to hear, that is, that the battery amps programmed to hold
> at 1000 amps, were just ramping down slightly at the end of the run.
> That means that the new stout pack probably delivers 1000 amps for most
> of the 1/4 mile run, and it means that the motors are still getting some
> serious amps at the far end of the track!
> Hi John an' EVerybody;
Serious amps? The understatement of the AM! Starting coal train type
amps! WOW! RR type amp stuff! I LOVE it when ya talk like this in the
mourning! Tim's diagnosis of the armature slipping on the shaft sounds like
a reality thing, fo sure? How ARE the armatures held to the shaft? Keyways?
Splined?The Dutchman shaft is tough, but hard to get a grip on for the poor
tortured armature? Blew out a few brush springs like at Woodburn a few
years ago, too?
> Of note everyone, the previous two packs from '05 and '06 would sag to
> 180 volts at about the 2/3 point of the run down the track. This is a 45
> volt rise under load, with the batteries still not yet fully broken in.
That's scary!
> Ha Ha! Better get the motors fixed BEFORE turning up the volume?!Or yul
see a grown Jim cry<g>!But by now yul tear up the rear end?A new Zombie
Siamese 9" in the wind?Have two motor sets, never be cought with a busted
motor THIS early in the racing season. They better be together this summer!I
wanna see them go in person! I hope Dick Brown is tuned in, here, too?Seeing
his Kick Ass batteri doing their thing. We talked about all this at BBB.
Anyhow, Congrats! I'll be out this summer to be seeing ya welding in
that Roll Cage in the Zombie, and parashoot on the back? So you can run!And
seeing ya use ALL the amps on tap!
Seeya this Summer!
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sounds like a call for an open source battery management project doesn't it?
Maybe this has been discussed to death before? There's a G3 Ibook on CGl today for $70. I could run a modern PPC Linux
on it for a runtime and display of a LabView app. I guess the hardware to collect data and control things is the hard
part. at least for me.
Edward Kellogg wrote:
Yes, there is educational pricing
http://www.amazon.com/LabVIEW-8-Student-book-only/dp/0132390256/ref=pd_bbs_sr_4/105-1363604-7773233?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1174368420&sr=8-4
Ed Kellogg
LabView does have a free student edition:
http://www.ni.com/academic/edu_lic.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
"starter motor kart" is hard to search for in google. kart ~= cart,
which is on lots of pages selling stuff. I've seen a couple videos,
but not a lot of technical specs.
I'm interested in making a yard kart with lots of acceleration for a
dirt and grass course in my yard with very short straights.
In my research I was surprised to find the cost of motors and
controllers, so I'm trying the cheap route first (to learn from).
I plan on:
1. just using the starter motor solenoid with a go/no go thumb
button button
2. weld a chain sprocket to the start motor crank somehow so I use
the motor for power and braking. I don't expect great braking. I'll
also have to scrub speed by turning.
3. manually "PWM" with my thumb button attached to the solenoid for
speed control.
4. use one or two lead acid auto or deep cycle batteries for power.
(will need a second set charging while one set is running)
I expect to learn that I should have found a real motor controller,
than my batteries drain too fast, because the motor is to inefficient
and that I should have put 4 wheel brakes on.
Any comments? I'm using this as the excuse to buy the welder.
I had a 5 hp B&S kart as a kid and it just seemed dangerous. We were
always battling gasoline fires when the engine fell apart. I'm
trying to convince my wife that a couple electric karts would be much
safer for the kids.
Thanks for your patience.
Joe
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Bob Rice <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Serious amps? The understatement of the AM!
> Starting coal train type
> amps! WOW! RR type amp stuff! I LOVE it when ya talk
> like this in the
> mourning!
> Ha Ha! Better get the motors fixed BEFORE
> turning up the volume?!Or yul
> see a grown Jim cry.
You know Bob, you and I have a seriously different
view on what's fun to read in the morning 8^P
Anyway my motor hair standing up on my neck tell me
rubbing armature. We'll see soon enough I guess on my
motor ESP and what the hell actually happened. As to
all you "I want to see a spun shaft" people out there
"I" say shut the hell up, LMAO!
LALALALALA
I can't hear you, 8^P
Being I'd love to use the motto "Lightning fast,
forktruck tough" "lightning bright, forktruck slow"
just doesn't have that same ring to it, hehehe.
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
____________________________________________________________________________________
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey, if you already have the motor, the batteries and the kart, why not?
It'll will be a fun way to learn something. Just be aware that once you get
it all together and have run it a few times, one of two things is bound to
happen. Either you will realize that go karts were fun when you were a kid,
but not so fun for you now, or you will think this is great, now if I only
had.... which will eventually lead to you buying a nice motor, controller,
brakes etc...
As far as the welder goes, I don't think any project is worth tackling
unless I get a nice new tool out of the deal :-)
damon
From: Joe Batt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: EVList <[email protected]>
Subject: newbie question - starter motor base yard kart
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 12:42:36 -0400
"starter motor kart" is hard to search for in google. kart ~= cart, which
is on lots of pages selling stuff. I've seen a couple videos, but not a
lot of technical specs.
I'm interested in making a yard kart with lots of acceleration for a dirt
and grass course in my yard with very short straights.
In my research I was surprised to find the cost of motors and controllers,
so I'm trying the cheap route first (to learn from).
I plan on:
1. just using the starter motor solenoid with a go/no go thumb button
button
2. weld a chain sprocket to the start motor crank somehow so I use the
motor for power and braking. I don't expect great braking. I'll also
have to scrub speed by turning.
3. manually "PWM" with my thumb button attached to the solenoid for speed
control.
4. use one or two lead acid auto or deep cycle batteries for power. (will
need a second set charging while one set is running)
I expect to learn that I should have found a real motor controller, than
my batteries drain too fast, because the motor is to inefficient and that
I should have put 4 wheel brakes on.
Any comments? I'm using this as the excuse to buy the welder.
I had a 5 hp B&S kart as a kid and it just seemed dangerous. We were
always battling gasoline fires when the engine fell apart. I'm trying to
convince my wife that a couple electric karts would be much safer for the
kids.
Thanks for your patience.
Joe
_________________________________________________________________
Exercise your brain! Try Flexicon.
http://games.msn.com/en/flexicon/default.htm?icid=flexicon_hmemailtaglinemarch07
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chain breaks = no brakes, I'd vote for putting real brakes on it.
Learning to weld has been alot of fun, go for it!
----- Original Message ----
From: Joe Batt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: EVList <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 10:42:36 AM
Subject: newbie question - starter motor base yard kart
"starter motor kart" is hard to search for in google. kart ~= cart,
which is on lots of pages selling stuff. I've seen a couple videos,
but not a lot of technical specs.
I'm interested in making a yard kart with lots of acceleration for a
dirt and grass course in my yard with very short straights.
In my research I was surprised to find the cost of motors and
controllers, so I'm trying the cheap route first (to learn from).
I plan on:
1. just using the starter motor solenoid with a go/no go thumb
button button
2. weld a chain sprocket to the start motor crank somehow so I use
the motor for power and braking. I don't expect great braking. I'll
also have to scrub speed by turning.
3. manually "PWM" with my thumb button attached to the solenoid for
speed control.
4. use one or two lead acid auto or deep cycle batteries for power.
(will need a second set charging while one set is running)
I expect to learn that I should have found a real motor controller,
than my batteries drain too fast, because the motor is to inefficient
and that I should have put 4 wheel brakes on.
Any comments? I'm using this as the excuse to buy the welder.
I had a 5 hp B&S kart as a kid and it just seemed dangerous. We were
always battling gasoline fires when the engine fell apart. I'm
trying to convince my wife that a couple electric karts would be much
safer for the kids.
Thanks for your patience.
Joe
____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Joe,
I agree with Damon, any excuse for a new tool.
In addition to the parts you have on hand, you could consider some parts
or complete "broken" units such as the Razor E200 and E300 stand up
scooters, and the Razor MX350, MX500 or MX650, although for safety you
may prefer a cart over two wheels. The electric motorcycles are new
enough that broken or surplus parts are not yet widely available, but I
have picked up lots of parts for the E200 my daughter has on E-bay. The
Razor E300 has larger tires, maybe close to what you are looking into
building. One of these could be used as parts to build a neat 3 wheeled
cart, or better yet, two for a four wheel cart with double the power and
range. My thought here is that you will like the motor controller,
being able to control speed very smoothly and accurately. If a person
were to adapt one of these units over to their project, they would not
have so much trouble with mounting a motor, sprockets, what type and how
to mount wheels, brakes, how does the controller wire up, batteries,
charger, etc. etc. Once you get it running, swapping out the occasional
weak or dead part is easy, and you can look into modifications from
there. The motors die quickly around water or excess moisture, and I
would think that dirt is bad as well. Over-speeding down hill is bad
also, but likely you do not have a long steep hill in your back yard.
However, if you are looking at a welder, you may prefer more of a
do-it-yourself type of project.
Alan Brinkman
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of damon henry
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 10:32 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: newbie question - starter motor base yard kart
Hey, if you already have the motor, the batteries and the kart, why not?
It'll will be a fun way to learn something. Just be aware that once you
get
it all together and have run it a few times, one of two things is bound
to
happen. Either you will realize that go karts were fun when you were a
kid,
but not so fun for you now, or you will think this is great, now if I
only
had.... which will eventually lead to you buying a nice motor,
controller,
brakes etc...
As far as the welder goes, I don't think any project is worth tackling
unless I get a nice new tool out of the deal :-)
damon
>From: Joe Batt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [email protected]
>To: EVList <[email protected]>
>Subject: newbie question - starter motor base yard kart
>Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 12:42:36 -0400
>
>"starter motor kart" is hard to search for in google. kart ~= cart,
which
>is on lots of pages selling stuff. I've seen a couple videos, but not
a
>lot of technical specs.
>
>I'm interested in making a yard kart with lots of acceleration for a
dirt
>and grass course in my yard with very short straights.
>
>In my research I was surprised to find the cost of motors and
controllers,
>so I'm trying the cheap route first (to learn from).
>
>I plan on:
>
>1. just using the starter motor solenoid with a go/no go thumb button
>button
>2. weld a chain sprocket to the start motor crank somehow so I use the
>motor for power and braking. I don't expect great braking. I'll also
>have to scrub speed by turning.
>3. manually "PWM" with my thumb button attached to the solenoid for
speed
>control.
>4. use one or two lead acid auto or deep cycle batteries for power.
(will
>need a second set charging while one set is running)
>
>I expect to learn that I should have found a real motor controller,
than
>my batteries drain too fast, because the motor is to inefficient and
that
>I should have put 4 wheel brakes on.
>
>Any comments? I'm using this as the excuse to buy the welder.
>
>I had a 5 hp B&S kart as a kid and it just seemed dangerous. We were
>always battling gasoline fires when the engine fell apart. I'm trying
to
>convince my wife that a couple electric karts would be much safer for
the
>kids.
>
>Thanks for your patience.
>Joe
>
_________________________________________________________________
Exercise your brain! Try Flexicon.
http://games.msn.com/en/flexicon/default.htm?icid=flexicon_hmemailtaglin
emarch07
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Joe,
I inherited something similar from school where it had been a student project
long ago and they were about to scrap it. Was a minibike with a starter
(actually cranking) motor using the original pinion and had a flywheel gear
bolted to rear wheel. One 12 volt battery and a push button on handle bars.
No brakes. Actually worked. Had to lean forward to keep wheely down and then
would travel about 7 mph (guess). You could pretty much run down the car
battery without overheating the motor. Flintstone brakes weren't as bad as
sounds. All in all, a piece of junk. Finally gave it away.
Story was that the student who made the thing had put the motor and gear on
the wrong side. Got it together, sat on it and pressed the button. Went
flying over the handlebars as the bike went backwards.
Anyway, as far as your cart. I really wouldn't expect anything too great.
Might be an interesting project. I'd stick to inexpensive, used motors and
parts. And be safe. Slamming on the motors is likely to break chains. Once
chain beaks, motor can overspeed. Motors will NOT provide braking. Better put
friction brakes on it. Use some type of disconnect safety incase contacts
stick on. Motors will be inefficient and heat up. They use bushings instead
of bearings, so high speed prolonged operation will burn those up. Even if you
get it working, don't expect it to last long.
Be careful out there.
Jeff
Joe Batt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
"starter motor kart" is hard to search for in google. kart ~= cart,
which is on lots of pages selling stuff. I've seen a couple videos,
but not a lot of technical specs.
I'm interested in making a yard kart with lots of acceleration for a
dirt and grass course in my yard with very short straights.
In my research I was surprised to find the cost of motors and
controllers, so I'm trying the cheap route first (to learn from).
I plan on:
1. just using the starter motor solenoid with a go/no go thumb
button button
2. weld a chain sprocket to the start motor crank somehow so I use
the motor for power and braking. I don't expect great braking. I'll
also have to scrub speed by turning.
3. manually "PWM" with my thumb button attached to the solenoid for
speed control.
4. use one or two lead acid auto or deep cycle batteries for power.
(will need a second set charging while one set is running)
I expect to learn that I should have found a real motor controller,
than my batteries drain too fast, because the motor is to inefficient
and that I should have put 4 wheel brakes on.
Any comments? I'm using this as the excuse to buy the welder.
I had a 5 hp B&S kart as a kid and it just seemed dangerous. We were
always battling gasoline fires when the engine fell apart. I'm
trying to convince my wife that a couple electric karts would be much
safer for the kids.
Thanks for your patience.
Joe
---------------------------------
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I hereby rescind the following post from 21 Sep 2006.....
I didn't think John would take me seriously. ;-)
> mmmm..... sounds like one of those match made in heaven things....
>
> or is it water-electricity, ac-dc, fire-gas, matter-antimatter
>
> Anyway the Jim-John connection benefits us ALL.
>
> JOHN!!! You're not trying hard enough!!!! BREAK the damn thing. Jim has
> all
> but challenged you here!!!
>
> JIM!!! NICE WORK!!! Try to stay ahead of John's carnage!!
>
> My turn for a LMAO!! BWAAHAHAHA
>
>
> --
> Stay Charged!
> Hump
>
> GE I-5
> Blossvale, NY
>
>
>> Jim Husted wrote....
>
>> I wonder where I'd be if the damn thing had exploded on the first run
> OMG
>> 8^0 If you factor in that it's a prototype it's really amazing. See
> this
>> is where Wayland and me are opposite, I hate to break stuff, if you
> break
> it
>> I feel I didn't do my job right kinda thing (I guess knowing his motto
> made
>> me work extra hard 8^)
>
>> Cya
>> Jim Husted
>> Hi-Torque Electric
>>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
First, you won't have any braking at all, not just "don't expect great braking".
and B. you will quickly find that the starter motor was a bad choice. Maybe....
some starter motors are better than others...look for ball, tapered, or roller
bearings as opposed to bushings.
I'd start with one of those Ametek motors frequently seen on Ebay, or as
another said... scooter motors.. How about 4WD, those scoot motors are cheap
enough, and they are perm mag, which will make your dynamic braking wishes much
easier..
Go for it !!!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Joe Batt
> Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 12:43 PM
> To: EVList
> Subject: newbie question - starter motor base yard kart
>
> "starter motor kart" is hard to search for in google. kart ~= cart,
> which is on lots of pages selling stuff. I've seen a couple videos,
> but not a lot of technical specs.
>
> I'm interested in making a yard kart with lots of acceleration for a
> dirt and grass course in my yard with very short straights.
>
> In my research I was surprised to find the cost of motors and
> controllers, so I'm trying the cheap route first (to learn from).
>
> I plan on:
>
> 1. just using the starter motor solenoid with a go/no go thumb
> button button
> 2. weld a chain sprocket to the start motor crank somehow so I use
> the motor for power and braking. I don't expect great braking. I'll
> also have to scrub speed by turning.
> 3. manually "PWM" with my thumb button attached to the solenoid for
> speed control.
> 4. use one or two lead acid auto or deep cycle batteries for power.
> (will need a second set charging while one set is running)
>
> I expect to learn that I should have found a real motor controller,
> than my batteries drain too fast, because the motor is to inefficient
> and that I should have put 4 wheel brakes on.
>
> Any comments? I'm using this as the excuse to buy the welder.
>
> I had a 5 hp B&S kart as a kid and it just seemed dangerous. We were
> always battling gasoline fires when the engine fell apart. I'm
> trying to convince my wife that a couple electric karts would be much
> safer for the kids.
>
> Thanks for your patience.
> Joe
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
I-5, Blossvale NY
--- End Message ---
