EV Digest 6921

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) RE: Wire 4/0
        by Christopher Robison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) RE: Google presses for 100 MPG vehicle
        by "Richard Acuti" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: DCDC converter, was Doers vs talkers
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  4) RE: Wire 4/0
        by "David S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Re: Google presses for 100 MPG vehicle
        by "Brian Pikkula" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) RE: Google presses for 100 MPG vehicle
        by "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) RE: Wire 4/0
        by "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) FW: Porsche 914, 1974 Model
        by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) RE: ADC 9'' Amps
        by Joseph Tahbaz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) FW: Magnetic Shunts
        by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) RE: ADC 9'' Amps
        by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) knife switch or hella style disconnect?
        by Mark Freidberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) 
        by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Re: knife switch or hella style disconnect?
        by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) RE: ADC 9'' Amps
        by Joseph Tahbaz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: Zombie rises from the dead Siamese8 lives again
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 17) Re: Missing digests
        by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) Re: Nicad batteries
        by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 19) 
        by "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) RE: knife switch or hella style disconnect?
        by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) Re: Ampabout ... NOT
        by "Dave Davidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) Check performance catalogs for parts
        by john fisher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, 2007-06-20 at 07:47 -0700, Lee Hart wrote:
> From: "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G"
> > Be careful how much you get from your local welding shop. Most
> > charge $4.50 a foot for 2/0. You can get a 50 foot roll of it
> > on ebay which averages out with shipping to about $3.12 a foot.
> 
> Also be aware that more and more undersized wire is fraudulently being 
> labelled and sold as a larger size. It's usually cheap imported junk with no 
> markings on it as to manufacturer, voltage or temperature ratings, etc.
> 

This actually happened to me, with some smaller wire I bought on eBay.
The "4 gauge" wire I bought ended up having a really thick jacket to
hide the smaller wire size.  I compared the supposedly 4 gauge wire with
some 6 gauge from Waytek, and it was *smaller* :

http://chrisrobison.org/files/temp_upload/wire_fraud.jpg

Turned out it was actually 8 gauge wire.


-- 
Christopher Robison
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://ohmbre.org          <-- 1999 Isuzu Hombre + Z2K + Warp13!

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I agree. I hold the driving public equally responsible for the dearth of electric/efficient vehicles. It just galls me how even today, people whine and complain about their fuel bill but won't even discuss my EV once I mention the 50 mile range. These same people also refuse to compromise one bit on all the auxiliary equipment that weighs a vehicle down and I'm NOT talking about safety equipment.

Our cars today have become rolling living rooms with all the comforts of the home and office and no one is willing to give any of that up. I mean hey, I'm a car guy. I LOVE new design, shiny new paint and gadgets but I feel that I only need them for long-hauls and car shows. These people need power/heated seats, heated mirrors, A/C, power steering, power brakes, GPS, DVD player for the kids and on and on. You simply don't need this crap to commute everyday. Americans used to be about sacrifice, now we're all about screwing our neighbor as long as we get what we want. Everyone screams that they want an efficient/alt fuel vehicle but if it comes in a package that's not a GMC Yukon, they won't buy it.

Rich A,
"Saving gasoline to help lower prices for soccer moms and overcompensating testosterone addicts everywhere."

Subject: RE: Google presses for 100 MPG vehicle
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 10:40:43 -0400
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Dewey, Jody R ATC COMNAVAIRLANT, N422G5G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Very true.  Toyota and Honda took the chance and made the vehicles.  GM
needs to do the same.  But then the american public needs to actually
BUY the vehicles or they will quit making them.  That's why my little
Geo metro has nearly quadrupled in value in the last year.  GM quit
making them in 2001 because no one was buying them.  Now that gas is
over 3 bucks a gallon people are complaining that they need a fuel
efficient car and Geo's are going like crazy.  If GM makes a hybrid or
full electric that is affordable, people need to buy them to spark the
huge demand that Toyota had at first.  Now that the dust is settled on
the PRIUS Toyota has a surplus of hybrids, no more 3 month waiting list,
and they have to market them to sell them.  It's a viscous cycle.

_________________________________________________________________
Don’t miss your chance to WIN $10,000 and other great prizes from Microsoft Office Live http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0540003042mrt/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Here are some links to a few products and some elementary application notes that may be helpful:

http://www.powerint.com/

http://www.powerint.com/psearch/

http://www.powerint.com/PDFFiles/di124.pdf

http://www.national.com/apnotes/BuckSwitchingControllers.html

http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-558.pdf

http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-1149.pdf

http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-1197.pdf

http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-1246.pdf

http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-1146.pdf

http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-1197.pdf

http://www.national.com/ms/PA/PACKAGE_THERMAL_CHARACTERIZATION.pdf

http://www.premiermag.com/pdf/pny.pdf

Ken



-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 4:53 pm
Subject: Re: DCDC converter, was Doers vs talkers


Yes they might actually work. not sure why I couldn't find those at digikey. do you happen to know an online source for them too? 
 
the minimum input voltage is a bit high but the graph seems to indicate it might work lower. 140v minimum is a bit high in a one size fits all controller but maybe if it can work well down to 120. 
 
The power is not great so will I need a transistor to drive the big transistors? not sure about gate charge and saturation etc yet 
 
Dan 
 
Thomas Ward wrote: 
are these any good to you? 
http://www.pwrx.com/pwrx/docs/m57184n_715b.pdf 
http://www.pwrx.com/pwrx/docs/m57182n_315.pdf 
 
Dan Frederiksen wrote: 
maybe a range of 100-400V and around 3-500A 
 
I've seen the simple text book circuits but there is of course more
>> to it. I need to supply the low voltage components from the unknown
100-400v supply 
efficiently 
I've looked for switching voltage regulators components for that but haven't found any 
and don't know how to make it discretely 
 
Dan 
 


________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
=0

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So would a good workaround for people running metal battery boxes-trays be
to spray them with tuck bed lining.  

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Roland Wiench
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 10:24 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Wire 4/0

That is true if your batteries are setting on a ground frame and your links 
are passing over metal battery hold downs.  If they are in a totally 
enclosed non-conductive enclosure where the links are isolated from any 
ground surfaces then I use a cable voltage rating of 150% over the main 
battery pack voltage.  The main battery pack feeders I use are enclosed in a

duct way which are not in contact with any of the links which are rated at 
600 volts.

My first pack links were 600 amp rated lead links that were welded on to the

post of 2 volt cells.  These were install in a 1/4 aluminum battery 
enclosure which was not good.  Had too much arc over from some of the links 
to the aluminum battery enclosure while charging.  Latter, I had these 
change to a epoxy porcelain cover fiber glass enclosure.

The bare lead links (no voltage rating) had no problem with any conductance 
to ground.

Roland




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marty Hewes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 7:42 AM
Subject: Re: Wire 4/0


> Lots of good info, but I'd think the battery links should be insulated for
> their relative potential to ground?  The insulation is rated for 
> breakdown,
> how much voltage the insulation may see from the conductor to whatever 
> gets
> next to it, which varies depending on where the link is in the pack.  But
> the last link will see nearly the whole pack voltage above ground,
> especially during charging, no?
>
> Marty
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 8:09 AM
> Subject: Re: Wire 4/0
>
>
> > Hello Phelps,
> >
> > When buying multi-strand wire, make sure you get the right voltage 
> > rating.
> > This will be printed on the side of the wire.  A welding supply company
> > will carry two voltage ratings, one is the leader feeder that are rated
> > for 300 volts and then the power leads rated for 600 volts.
> >
> > Some auto parts stores that make up battery wires, they  normally carry
> > the lower voltage in stock, but may have to order the higher voltage 
> > wire.
> > The auto type stranding is about 110 strands for a 2/0 cable.
> >
> > Also there is different size of wire strands from very fine strands that
> > range from 200 to over 1000 strands for 4/0 wire.
> >
> > Lets say your battery pack is a 250 volt pack, then you can get by with
> > 300 volt cable.  If you battery pack is over 300 volts, then your feeder
> > cables coming of the ends of the battery pack should be 600 volt rated.
> >
> > The battery links could be rated at the 300 volt rate because the 
> > maximum
> > voltage difference between any two batteries in the pack is only 2, 6, 
> > or
> > 12 volts.
> >
> > I preferred to make my battery links with a 300 volt rated 2/0 that has
> > about 110 strands copper wire that has a thinner jacket.  Also the 
> > larger
> > strands will not fracture as much as  the fine strands.
> >
> > I only use the 600 volt fine strand cable with a heavy jack for the 
> > feeder
> > runs from the battery pack.
> >
> > I use a heavy heat shrink with adhesive which increases the cable link
> > diameter another 1/4 inch in diameter.
> >
> > Roland
>
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The A/C in many parts of the country is not a luxury.  I'm in Houston
and the heat index was 105ºF at 6pm yesterday and it's still June.
You sweat in the car even with the A/C on.  That's why I am including
A/C into my Jetta conversion.  Here, A/C is a necessity.

Brian
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/960


On 6/20/07, Richard Acuti <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
These people need
power/heated seats, heated mirrors, A/C, power steering, power brakes, GPS,
DVD player for the kids and on and on. You simply don't need this crap to
commute everyday.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
AC is a necessity in some areas.  There are plenty of things that don't need to 
be there though.  We have to get the american public to understand that driving 
an 8 ton SUV to and from work by yourself is not a smart move.  We need to have 
a commuter car for .....COMMUTING...and we can have the 8 ton SUV for 
occasional driving when it is practical to use it that way.  I have a 1968 
Chevy truck - I use it when I need a truck, not for driving to and from work.  
Even when I do use it, it has a 6.2L Diesel and gets 25 mpg.  All of my 
vehicles get at least 25 mpg.  My wife's minivan gets 28, my nissan 240 gets 
31, and my Geo gets 43.  I commute with my Geo but on long trips I use my 
Nissan.  I tow with my truck and we take family trips with the minivan. 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Pikkula
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 12:44
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Google presses for 100 MPG vehicle

The A/C in many parts of the country is not a luxury.  I'm in Houston and the 
heat index was 105ºF at 6pm yesterday and it's still June.
You sweat in the car even with the A/C on.  That's why I am including A/C into 
my Jetta conversion.  Here, A/C is a necessity.

Brian
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/960


On 6/20/07, Richard Acuti <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>These people need
> power/heated seats, heated mirrors, A/C, power steering, power brakes, 
>GPS,  DVD player for the kids and on and on. You simply don't need this 
>crap to  commute everyday.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A truck bedlining would work but you also have to make sure it is thick
enough to offer the insulation value.  Most bedliners after application
are only a couple milimeters thick.    An easy way to insulate across a
metal piece is to use a piece of PVC pipe. 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David S
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 12:26
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: RE: Wire 4/0

So would a good workaround for people running metal battery boxes-trays
be to spray them with tuck bed lining.  

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Roland Wiench
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 10:24 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Wire 4/0

That is true if your batteries are setting on a ground frame and your
links are passing over metal battery hold downs.  If they are in a
totally enclosed non-conductive enclosure where the links are isolated
from any ground surfaces then I use a cable voltage rating of 150% over
the main battery pack voltage.  The main battery pack feeders I use are
enclosed in a

duct way which are not in contact with any of the links which are rated
at 600 volts.

My first pack links were 600 amp rated lead links that were welded on to
the

post of 2 volt cells.  These were install in a 1/4 aluminum battery
enclosure which was not good.  Had too much arc over from some of the
links to the aluminum battery enclosure while charging.  Latter, I had
these change to a epoxy porcelain cover fiber glass enclosure.

The bare lead links (no voltage rating) had no problem with any
conductance to ground.

Roland




----- Original Message -----
From: "Marty Hewes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 7:42 AM
Subject: Re: Wire 4/0


> Lots of good info, but I'd think the battery links should be insulated
for
> their relative potential to ground?  The insulation is rated for 
> breakdown,
> how much voltage the insulation may see from the conductor to whatever

> gets
> next to it, which varies depending on where the link is in the pack.
But
> the last link will see nearly the whole pack voltage above ground,
> especially during charging, no?
>
> Marty
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 8:09 AM
> Subject: Re: Wire 4/0
>
>
> > Hello Phelps,
> >
> > When buying multi-strand wire, make sure you get the right voltage 
> > rating.
> > This will be printed on the side of the wire.  A welding supply
company
> > will carry two voltage ratings, one is the leader feeder that are
rated
> > for 300 volts and then the power leads rated for 600 volts.
> >
> > Some auto parts stores that make up battery wires, they  normally
carry
> > the lower voltage in stock, but may have to order the higher voltage

> > wire.
> > The auto type stranding is about 110 strands for a 2/0 cable.
> >
> > Also there is different size of wire strands from very fine strands
that
> > range from 200 to over 1000 strands for 4/0 wire.
> >
> > Lets say your battery pack is a 250 volt pack, then you can get by
with
> > 300 volt cable.  If you battery pack is over 300 volts, then your
feeder
> > cables coming of the ends of the battery pack should be 600 volt
rated.
> >
> > The battery links could be rated at the 300 volt rate because the 
> > maximum
> > voltage difference between any two batteries in the pack is only 2,
6, 
> > or
> > 12 volts.
> >
> > I preferred to make my battery links with a 300 volt rated 2/0 that
has
> > about 110 strands copper wire that has a thinner jacket.  Also the 
> > larger
> > strands will not fracture as much as  the fine strands.
> >
> > I only use the 600 volt fine strand cable with a heavy jack for the 
> > feeder
> > runs from the battery pack.
> >
> > I use a heavy heat shrink with adhesive which increases the cable
link
> > diameter another 1/4 inch in diameter.
> >
> > Roland
>
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Peter,

This webmail (hotmail or Yahoo) is a real pain, hafta cut & paste or re-email and strip out the digest. It wants me to start over with a new email, not copy anything in.

Anyway it's a Porsche 914 1974 model I'm playing with, forgot to mention that little detail. I've finished my "bright flashes" mode and now am into hacking metal mode.

Cheers,
Mark

Thread-Topic: Porsche 914, 1974 Model
Thread-Index: AcezXBkxJLXxuN9aTEOWsB1snxp3UQAAg0PAAAAsL1A=
Return-Path: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-OriginalArrivalTime: 20 Jun 2007 17:16:40.0033 (UTC) FILETIME=[C4055510:01C7B35E]



>Subject: Re: E-Porsche Suspension Question
>From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
>
>Your question might be a bit easier to answer if you mention /which/
>porsche (Model and Year) you are talking about.
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > After putting in 4 50lb nicads up front and 10 in the rear, I'm
> > tweaking the suspension to give me more ground clearance.  Does
> > anyone know what the spec is?  I don't see it in my Haynes & tech
> > tips Porsche manual.
> >
> > Also in setting the front torsion bars the manual shows a 3.54"
>difference
> > which correlates to a 8.6" measured from the floor to the axle.  It
> > was 6.5"
> > and now it's 7.8" after adjusting the torsion bars to the max.
> > There is no more upward travel, the suspension is on the upper stops

> > and the front will only bounce down, not up so I assume the manual
> > has a typo.  I'll
>probably
> > adjust it to something in between 6.5 to 7.8" (about 7").  The
> > toe-in on the front looks to 1/8" as well as the rear.  The camber,
> > tires are kicked
>out
> > at the bottom 1/4".  I'm told this is good for handling but a 0
> > camber would be better for wear (if I can adjust it, not sure).
> >
> > I installed 180lb progressive springs on the rear but it looks like
> > it's lowered 1" and the camber (tires are kicked out at the bottom
> > 1/4")  I shimmed most of the camber out (was 1" when I bought it).
> > I bought Bilstien adjustable height shocks which allow the spring
> > seat to be moved up to jack up the rear a bit.  I'd like to bring it

> > up at least an inch or maybe
>two
> > inches, so the rear would be slightly higher than the front.
> >
> > Have a renewable energy day,
> > Mark
> >

_________________________________________________________________
PC Magazine’s 2007 editors’ choice for best Web mail—award-winning Windows Live Hotmail. http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_pcmag_0507
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*         ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED---            *
*     This post contains a forbidden message format       *
*  (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting)  *
*       Lists at  sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT         *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting  *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---

Thanks a bunch Lee, you are the technical explanation meister for sure!

I had to copy in the original content of the email since this hotmail thing wants me to start over with a blank email.

I got the charger working with the standard C/40 final current taper, 14 STM5-180 ni-cads are about the same as 16 floodees final voltage. Per 6V battery the ni-cads get charged a bit higher after looking at Rod Hower's TEVan charger design. I put the high peddle lockout in last night when the front end alignment bozo floored it and almost went through the shop wall. When I went over there everyone scattered and disappeared. The main fuse blew but the tranny is still ok.

Have a renewable energy day,
Mark

From: "Mark E. Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: FW: Magnetic Shunts
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 13:16:46 -0400
MIME-Version: 1.0
Received: from DOMAINSERVER.engineering.synchrony.com ([70.169.56.20]) by bay0-mc3-f1.bay0.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(6.0.3790.2668); Wed, 20 Jun 2007 10:16:03 -0700 X-Message-Info: txF49lGdW409mRBAkZqJN2O7C0k5m5kPaPkGarjqsJOzPUS4fsDB8rg0LRbhPWHK
Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft Exchange V6.5
X-MS-Has-Attach: X-MS-TNEF-Correlator: Thread-Topic: Magnetic Shunts
Thread-Index: AcezXBkxJLXxuN9aTEOWsB1snxp3UQAAbODwAAAw2JAAAAxrUA==
Return-Path: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
X-OriginalArrivalTime: 20 Jun 2007 17:16:03.0655 (UTC) FILETIME=[AE567D70:01C7B35E]


Subject: Magnetic Shunts


>
>From: Mark Hanson
> > I was curious about the purpose of a magnetic shunt used in Lester
> > Chargers and in microwave ovens (that I convert to chargers).
>
>The magnetic shunt adds inductance in series with the transformer
windings.
>It behaves as if you have an inductor in series with the primary and/or

>secondary.
>
>This is useful for a battery charger, or other types of load that could

>be shorted or try to draw excessive current. If you try to overload the

>transformer, the series inductance creates a voltage drop that limits
>the current. Since the drop is inductive, it causes a phase shift
>(worsens the power factor), but does not cause extra heating or loss of
efficiency.
>
>The winding with the capacitor on a constant voltage transformer is not

>to resonate it at 60 Hz. Its effect is more complicated. Suppose you
>have a standard "hard" transformer, but add an inductor in series with
>the primary. The inductor causes a voltage drop depending on load
>current. At light load, you get maximum voltage out; as load increases,

>the inductor causes an increasing voltage drop, reducing the primary
>voltage, and so reducing the secondary voltage.
>
>Now add a big AC capacitor across the transformer secondary. It loads
>the secondary, but its load current is *capacitive*. Its current
>cancels the inductive effect of the primary inductor. It has little
>effect on light-load voltage (because there is no inductive voltage
drop to cancel).
>But the higher the load current, the greater the effect of this
capacitor.
>The bigger it is, the more it raises the output voltage at high load
>current. If you pick the *right* value, it completely cancels the
>inductor's voltage drop so the no-load and full-load voltages are the
same.
>You have a constant voltage transformer!
>
>This effect doesn't actually regulate as perfectly as theory would
imply.
>So the final refinement is to let the transformer core saturate. This
>limits the power output of a transformer, like current limit in a motor

>controller. It also causes excessive primary current and core heating,
>but the series inductor in the primary limits this.
>
>Real constant voltage transformers don't use an external inductor; they

>just add that extra little piece of iron to the core (the magnetic
>shunt) between primary and secondary.
>
>--
>I would not waste my life in friction when it could be turned into
>momentum. -- Frances Willard
>--
>Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net


_________________________________________________________________
Don’t miss your chance to WIN $10,000 and other great prizes from Microsoft Office Live http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/aub0540003042mrt/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Joseph

Both the Warp and ADC 9's are very close and for basic
compairing could be lumped into the same lot IMO.  As
was posted it's not just amp's but time that you need
to factor in.  The racers are maxing out Zilla's for
very short bursts and it they handle that part really
well for the most part.  Pounding them with 2000 amps
isn't what is causing them to fail, it's the flashover
at the end of the track where voltage comes back up is
where most of the ones I've seen happen.  So now you
need to add voltage into that equation, although I
believe RPM's also play a part, so this isn't an easy
question to answer.

Now if we knew what kind of sadistic motor torturing
plans you were looking to achieve, it might help us to
give a more direct, "you'll hurt it", or it should be
fine" type details.

Another factor is that not all motors are equal and
almost never run exactly the same.  Just because one
did "this" does not mean they all will.  Even the
flashover thing happens just EVery once in a while
with both John and Bill so it's very hard to say
exactly what sets it off.

Anyway hope this helps, and BTW what the hell are you
planning on doing to your motor? LMAO 8^)

Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric




       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's 
Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when. 
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/222

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,

A u1 size agm is serving as the 12 volt accessory
battery in my Geo Metro EV. Parasitic loads are
draining the batt as the dc-dc only functions when the
EV is in use. Anyway one thought was to just install a
manual battery disconnect under the hood and the
Wirthco knife switches and hella style switch were of
interest. Any reason to select one or the other style
besides personal preference?

Wirthco switch:
http://www.wirthco.com/knife_switch_remote_mount_in-line_eye_to_eye-p-478.html

Hella style:
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=669&product_id=1330


Mark




       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! 
FareChase.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Are the Digests skipping a few on occasion?

Lately I've been missing 1 or 2. Yesterday/Today I didn't receive 6915 or
6917 & 6918. I did receive 6916, 6919 & 6920.

I can't believe I'm filtering the Digests now. What's up?

Jim
'93 Dodge TEVan
'88 Fiero ESE
"Use what talents you possess; The woods would be very silent if no birds
sang except those that sang the best" --Henry Van Dyke-- 

--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://link.mail2web.com/mail2web


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Mark,

I am using the one switch with the turn key flag.  It is a 500 amp rating at 
12 volts.  I do not use it every time I park the EV, because I will lose my 
data in the E-meter.

To keep up my 12 volt accessory battery where it is park, I use a on board 
Shumaker solid state smart charger, that is design to charge and maintain, 
standard, deep cycle, AGM and Gell batteries.  It taps off a 20 amp C/B that 
comes off the main power plug in.  About every four months I also use it to 
balance each battery in the main battery pack by plugging in battery leads 
in to a plug that taps into the DC output.

I got my from WalMart.  One of the EV'ers is using one as a DC-DC converter 
by plugging it right into the main battery pack, but it needs to be 
connected to a 12 volt accessory battery for it to work.  Could use a 
transfer switch to switch to commercial power while you are plug in.

A IOTA  DC-DC converter could be use as a battery charger too by switching 
the input power leads to the commercial power input.

Roland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Freidberg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 1:37 PM
Subject: knife switch or hella style disconnect?


> Hi,
>
> A u1 size agm is serving as the 12 volt accessory
> battery in my Geo Metro EV. Parasitic loads are
> draining the batt as the dc-dc only functions when the
> EV is in use. Anyway one thought was to just install a
> manual battery disconnect under the hood and the
> Wirthco knife switches and hella style switch were of
> interest. Any reason to select one or the other style
> besides personal preference?
>
> Wirthco switch:
> http://www.wirthco.com/knife_switch_remote_mount_in-line_eye_to_eye-p-478.html
>
> Hella style:
> http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=669&product_id=1330
>
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! 
> FareChase.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/
>
> 

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*         ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED---            *
*     This post contains a forbidden message format       *
*  (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting)  *
*       Lists at  sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT         *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting  *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*         ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED---            *
*     This post contains a forbidden message format       *
*  (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting)  *
*       Lists at  sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT         *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting  *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 20 Jun 2007 at 15:48, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> What's up?

The main digest archive contains the ones you're missing, so they were 
definitely sent out.

Wait a day or two and see if they show up.  Your mail server might have 
hiccoughed.  

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 20 Jun 2007 at 8:58, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> >Where do the surplus or used flooded nicad's that people are using come
> >from?
> 
> I have a somewhat related question: Where do they go when they die?

I can tell you that the ones we're interested in for EVs don't get scrapped.  
They're much too valuable.  Usually they go back to the manufacturer to be 
rebuilt.  Then they're returned to service for another 10 or 20 years.

I don't know about the others, but I believe that Saft is required to provide 
recycling service for its NiCd batteries under EU law.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Are the Digests skipping a few on occasion?

Lately I've been missing 1 or 2. Yesterday/Today I didn't receive 6915 or
6917 & 6918. I did receive 6916, 6919 & 6920.

I can't believe I'm filtering the Digests now. What's up?

Jim
'93 Dodge TEVan
'88 Fiero ESE
"Use what talents you possess; The woods would be very silent if no birds
sang except those that sang the best" --Henry Van Dyke-- 

--------------------------------------------------------------------
myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft® Windows® and Linux web and application
hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Freidberg wrote: 

> A u1 size agm is serving as the 12 volt accessory
> battery in my Geo Metro EV. Parasitic loads are
> draining the batt as the dc-dc only functions when the
> EV is in use. Anyway one thought was to just install a
> manual battery disconnect under the hood and the
> Wirthco knife switches and hella style switch were of
> interest. Any reason to select one or the other style
> besides personal preference?
> 
> Wirthco switch:
> http://www.wirthco.com/knife_switch_remote_mount_in-line_eye_t
> o_eye-p-478.html
> 
> Hella style:
> http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=669&pro
> duct_id=1330

One thing in favour of the Hella style is that it doesn't have as much
exposed metal so would be less likely to get shorted accidentally.

With the Hella, you could mount it to be accessible from within the
passenger compartment rather than needing to open the hood to
connect/disconnect the battery.

If you are going to open the hood anyway, you might consider a "normal"
battery disconnect device such as this:

<http://www.autoanything.com/driving-accessories/69A1720A0A0.aspx>

It has the advantage of mounting directly to the battery, which should
allow a cleaner installation.  If your U1 AGM doesn't have standard
automotive (SAE) posts or the 3/8-16 threaded GM-style connections, then
using this style of disconnect could be problematic.

If you like the knife switch look and your battery has automotive posts,
then this one might be worth considering:

<http://www.absak.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/610>

If you like the Hella style, but don't want a removable key (with the
associated risk of misplacing it), then something like this one may be
worth considering:

<http://www.spectorracing.com/customer/product.php?productid=2081&cat=19
1&page=1>

Or a bit plainer (and a few bucks cheaper):

<http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/rebco5.htm>

Cheers,

Roger.

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bruce,

Before making any rash decisions, carefully examine the damage. Is there much/any structural damage or is it mainly cosmetic? As I remember, you drive a S10 Blazer. You should be able to pick up a front end clip pretty reasonable at a wrecking yard. A body shop is horribly expensive, so look at what you can do yourself. The front end clip will just bolt on, and will probably contain most of what was damaged. Don't panic about the driver door - it doesn't take much to push the fender back enough to keep the door from opening. If talking to a body shop, ask about using used parts. Just as good and much cheaper.

It sounds like this was a fairly low speed crash, and S10s are pretty sturdy. Hopefully, someone close to you will respond and they can look at the damage, figure out the best course of action, and get you back on the road quickly.

Dave Davidson
Glen Burnie, Maryland


From: bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: evlist <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Ampabout ... NOT
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 20:22:14 -0700 (PDT)

And the day ‘was’ going so well too. This morning, I got many
chores done before my College class. Once in class I found I did as
well on my second midterm exam as I did on my first (yay!). At the
end of class I also got a lead on a possible temp-to-hire job
configuring Mac & PCs for the San Bruno School System.

Leaving for home I found a ticket on my EV. It was a fine for
parking my EV in an EV parking spot (?!?). I went down to the
campus police station and got yakking to one of the officers.

He saw that my EV was properly marked as an EV and did not know how
the officer that wrote the ticket could have missed that. He took
care of the ticket and we got talking EVs, and AFVs.

I left for home in a good mood because all was well. I thought I
would take a slower route to be careful coming home. That turned
out not to be the case.

Part way home, a car in front stopped suddenly forcing the car in
front of me to slam on the brakes and …

Summary, my EV body is pretty well smashed up after all three
vehicles mixed it up. My driver door does not open, and I had to
exit my EV via the passenger side. The front wheels still steer and
the Electrics seem OK.

We all exchanged info (the local Police and the drivers). The tow
truck driver and I yakked up EVs as he was asking lots of questions
while towing my smashed EV home. When he unloaded my crunched EV
and of course all my neighbors had to come out to eyeball the
damage (just what I did not need). I do not know if I can still
drive the EV. I will check that tomorrow.

I have to decide if
-I am going fix the EV body at a regular auto body shop (-$$$$)

-Get and EV converter to pull the EV guts out and push them into
another donor vehicle (-$$$$$)

- Or sell the smashed EV for EV parts (+$$$, the T125 batteries,
C600 DC controller, and 9" dual shaft Advanced DC motor is still
good).

It is just a bummer to be out of commission. I think I am starting
to go through EV withdrawals.

I still have one more class next week I cannot miss, as I need to
take the final exam. I will have to start figuring out some alt
transportation to use (rent an ICE, bicycle to the bus stop, etc.).

Oh what joy :-o



Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter

' ____
~/__|o\__
'@----- @'---(=
. http://geocities.com/brucedp/
. EV List Editor & AFV newswires
. (originator of the above ASCII art)
===== Undo Petroleum Everywhere
: MEPIS Linux & WiFi powered :



____________________________________________________________________________________
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
http://sims.yahoo.com/


_________________________________________________________________
Picture this – share your photos and you could win big! http://www.GETREALPhotoContest.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I've noticed several parts lately in dragster, circle track, import tuner catalogs, that would work on EVs. (No doubt the racers and car-guys already know all this)

For instance, the emergency battery disconnects for the dash are sold for every type of race car as they are always required by sanctioning bodies. They may not have sufficient current capability, YMMV.

I noticed in a hot-rod truck magazine a whole section on S10 suspension components, including air-ride stuff that might be just the ticket for those lead-sleds; similarly theres tons of stuff for all kinds of trucks from the 4X4 people.

Yesterday I tripped over something called a front engine plate and a mid engine plate. These are dragster parts designed to eliminate your standard motor-mounts. They might be just the thing for a tranny-emotor adapter for those using American rear-wheel drive platforms.

Those tasty Wilwood brakes are easily found in the circle-track catalogs.

My point is there is a huge aftermarket out there for ( some of ) your vehicles, and it seems like some listers aren't really aware of it. I, for one, didn't know people modded S10s, or about the engine plates. I guess if you have a Geo or a Taurus or Cadillac, things may be limited, but the larger import cars, and trucks have a huge audience.


anyway HTH

JF

--- End Message ---

Reply via email to