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--------------Boundary-00=_FLJEN0X1VA4000000000"
X-Mailer: IncrediMail (5653017)
From: "Sam--
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 22:02:10 -0700
From: BrownGassyTurd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Virtual Instrumentation Solution
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Doh!
Copy/Paste error.
Here's the proper link:
> video of a PowerPoint draft/prototype here:
http://evorbust.blogspot.com/2007/07/ev-conversion-7-14-2007.html
...
Manny
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1117
http://EVorBust.blogspot.com
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From: Ian Page-Echols <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Virtual Instrumentation Solution
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 23:29:22 -0700
To: [email protected]
Also, check out Carman for Linux:
http://openbossa.indt.org/carman/
Being designed for ICE, gets the data from the car's OBD port.
Ian
On Jul 18, 2007, at 8:15 PM, Brian Pikkula wrote:
> About a week ago I was asking some questions about instrumentation.
>
> I think I found my solution.
>
> For about $225 I can have a moderately tricked out instrumentation
> system.
>
> A $100 usb daq board: http://www.labjack.com/labjack_u3.php?prodId=25
> A ~$125 (ebay used) Pocket PC (ie Toshiba Pocket PC E750 WiFi, 400Mhz)
> with touch screen
>
> I have access to LabView at work and in my spare time I am developing
> an .exe file to be used on the Pocket PC. See a screen shot at
> http://tinyurl.com/2kvbqx
>
> I will be able to monitor (in real time) Ah used, instantaneous AND
> average Wh/mi, Bat amps, traction voltage, vacuum, 12V, with warning
> lights and maybe buzzers for all.
>
> The only problem is that it's a bit small. The gauges are a bit small
> and real estate is a premium. The screen shot is about actual size of
> the PPC screen. Cool thing is, is that I can modify it any time I
> want to monitor whatever I want. I'll probably also add a button for
> night time where it flips to another screen that is much darker.
>
> If it works out and I'm happy (ie not too many crashes), I'm thinking
> about adding another daq board and taking out the stock cluster and
> replacing it with a Tablet PC, $300 ebay used (ie Compaq TC1000, 1Ghz,
> touch screen, 30Gb) virtual cluster right behind the steering wheel.
>
> I've decided that I'll only use it for monitoring and no control. I'm
> a bit weary of a crash x2, windows and the eVdub in that order :-(
>
> Brian
>
> --
> Brian in TX
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/960
> http://www.evdub.blogspot.com/
> It may seem like I am doing nothing, but on a cellular level I'm
> really quite busy.
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 23:34:17 -0700
From: BrownGassyTurd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Virtual Instrumentation Solution
MIME-Version: 1.0
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You may also want to check out Fusion Brain:
http://www.fusioncontrolcentre.com/FusionStore/catalog/index.php
1/2 the price, plus they have a following at mp3car.com's forums, a
CarPC enthusiast community.
On 7/18/07, Brian Pikkula <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
...
> A $100 usb daq board: http://www.labjack.com/labjack_u3.php?prodId=25
> A ~$125 (ebay used) Pocket PC (ie Toshiba Pocket PC E750 WiFi, 400Mhz)
> with touch screen
...
> --
> Brian in TX
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/960
> http://www.evdub.blogspot.com/
> It may seem like I am doing nothing, but on a cellular level I'm
> really quite busy.
Manny
--
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1117
http://EVorBust.blogspot.com
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 23:43:07 -0700
From: BrownGassyTurd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Virtual Instrumentation Solution
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Nice.
Too bad my 71-74 VW based car isn't even OBD-0 compliant...LOL
I can't wait to see what you guys come up with. Be sure to check out
Doug's eGhia implementation on a Sharp Zaurus?
http://tinyurl.com/33dtrf
http://ev.dougandtomo.com/Bloghia/2DB18481-C9A9-44FB-B7FB-7C0E9EF7B7F0.html
Manny
--
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1117
http://EVorBust.blogspot.com
On 7/18/07, Ian Page-Echols <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Also, check out Carman for Linux:
> http://openbossa.indt.org/carman/
> Being designed for ICE, gets the data from the car's OBD port.
>
> Ian
>
> On Jul 18, 2007, at 8:15 PM, Brian Pikkula wrote:
>
> > About a week ago I was asking some questions about instrumentation.
> >
> > I think I found my solution.
> >
> > For about $225 I can have a moderately tricked out instrumentation
> > system.
> >
> > A $100 usb daq board: http://www.labjack.com/labjack_u3.php?prodId=25
> > A ~$125 (ebay used) Pocket PC (ie Toshiba Pocket PC E750 WiFi, 400Mhz)
> > with touch screen
> >
> > I have access to LabView at work and in my spare time I am developing
> > an .exe file to be used on the Pocket PC. See a screen shot at
> > http://tinyurl.com/2kvbqx
> >
> > I will be able to monitor (in real time) Ah used, instantaneous AND
> > average Wh/mi, Bat amps, traction voltage, vacuum, 12V, with warning
> > lights and maybe buzzers for all.
> >
> > The only problem is that it's a bit small. The gauges are a bit small
> > and real estate is a premium. The screen shot is about actual size of
> > the PPC screen. Cool thing is, is that I can modify it any time I
> > want to monitor whatever I want. I'll probably also add a button for
> > night time where it flips to another screen that is much darker.
> >
> > If it works out and I'm happy (ie not too many crashes), I'm thinking
> > about adding another daq board and taking out the stock cluster and
> > replacing it with a Tablet PC, $300 ebay used (ie Compaq TC1000, 1Ghz,
> > touch screen, 30Gb) virtual cluster right behind the steering wheel.
> >
> > I've decided that I'll only use it for monitoring and no control. I'm
> > a bit weary of a crash x2, windows and the eVdub in that order :-(
> >
> > Brian
> >
> > --
> > Brian in TX
> > http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/960
> > http://www.evdub.blogspot.com/
> > It may seem like I am doing nothing, but on a cellular level I'm
> > really quite busy.
> >
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 01:15:26 -0700
From: Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: What will it take to get White Zombie into the 10's?
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John Wayland wrote:
> I was wrong...Tim was right. The launch suffered from excessive wheel
> spin and we lost a quick 1/10th second in the 60 ft....that would have
> made that 11.4 run an 11.3 run right there. Once the tires started
> spinning there was no stopping the hp from taking over and the car
> continued to spin the tires way past the 60 ft. and past 100 ft., too.
> Would it take? A better decision by me last Saturday night!
What it would take then in this situation is even rudimentary
traction control, ensuring grip at any time. Then you could
dial max motor current, no problem.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
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To: [email protected]
From: Ian Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Are AC circuit breakers OK with DC?
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 19:12:16 +0800
For example, would this work as a breaker in an EV?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Breaker-3-Pole-Eaton-Heinemann-GJ3-160-
amp_W0QQitemZ150043572855QQihZ005QQcategoryZ104232QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
-Ian
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Are AC circuit breakers OK with DC?
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 07:17:42 -0600
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Hello Ian,
A AC breaker at the same voltage of the DC source, does not have the larger
contact pads and spacing as a DC breaker. The spacing is contacts spacing
is wider in a DC breaker, so when a DC breaker is activated, there will be
less arc over.
The DC breaker is larger, may have arc suppression and a vent screen for air
flow as some large AC breakers have.
We have install 120/240 AC thermo trip breakers, (do not use magnetic trip)
on 28 volt systems in a electronics lab that has not problems. The AC
voltage rating of the breaker is about 4 times the rating of the DC voltage,
which been working fine for over 20 years now.
On a 120 VDC system, you may get by with a 480 or 600 VAC breaker, but these
are large K, L, and M frame breakers.
Also the ampere rating of the circuit is a factor. A breaker ampere rating
should be 125% over the actual ampere you are using. This is about 16 amps
on a 20 amp C/B and 75 amps on a 100 amp C/B. This is the allow maximum
ampere we can use on rewire. We normally install at the 200% rating on new
work.
On a 20 amp 120 VAC C/B, the 200% rating would be about 10 amps for AC
loads. For DC loads on a A/C C/B, it is best to cut this to about 5 amps
for a longer life.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Hooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 5:12 AM
Subject: Are AC circuit breakers OK with DC?
> For example, would this work as a breaker in an EV?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Breaker-3-Pole-Eaton-Heinemann-GJ3-160-
> amp_W0QQitemZ150043572855QQihZ005QQcategoryZ104232QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> -Ian
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Dmitri" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Car wash
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 09:33:10 -0400
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Can't see your message, use plain text only.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2007 9:17 PM
Subject: Car wash
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--------------Boundary-00=_FLJEN0X1VA4000000000"
X-Mailer: IncrediMail (5653017)
From: "Sam--
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 08:34:41 -0600
From: "Zeke Yewdall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Are AC circuit breakers OK with DC?
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SquareD QO series breakers are rated for 125vac, or 50 vdc. They are
some of the few AC breakers that even have an DC rating that I am
aware of. So.... beware using AC breakers for DC.
Z
On 7/19/07, Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello Ian,
>
> A AC breaker at the same voltage of the DC source, does not have the larger
> contact pads and spacing as a DC breaker. The spacing is contacts spacing
> is wider in a DC breaker, so when a DC breaker is activated, there will be
> less arc over.
>
> The DC breaker is larger, may have arc suppression and a vent screen for air
> flow as some large AC breakers have.
>
> We have install 120/240 AC thermo trip breakers, (do not use magnetic trip)
> on 28 volt systems in a electronics lab that has not problems. The AC
> voltage rating of the breaker is about 4 times the rating of the DC voltage,
> which been working fine for over 20 years now.
>
> On a 120 VDC system, you may get by with a 480 or 600 VAC breaker, but these
> are large K, L, and M frame breakers.
>
> Also the ampere rating of the circuit is a factor. A breaker ampere rating
> should be 125% over the actual ampere you are using. This is about 16 amps
> on a 20 amp C/B and 75 amps on a 100 amp C/B. This is the allow maximum
> ampere we can use on rewire. We normally install at the 200% rating on new
> work.
>
> On a 20 amp 120 VAC C/B, the 200% rating would be about 10 amps for AC
> loads. For DC loads on a A/C C/B, it is best to cut this to about 5 amps
> for a longer life.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ian Hooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 5:12 AM
> Subject: Are AC circuit breakers OK with DC?
>
>
> > For example, would this work as a breaker in an EV?
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/Breaker-3-Pole-Eaton-Heinemann-GJ3-160-
> > amp_W0QQitemZ150043572855QQihZ005QQcategoryZ104232QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> >
> > -Ian
> >
> >
>
>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 07:49:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: New battery balancing interface IC for Li-ion
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Thought this would be of interest to those making
battery balancers,
http://www.intersil.com/data/an/an1333.pdf
Intersil ISL9208
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 10:53:57 -0400
From: "Timothy Balcer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: LionEV battery packs and vehicles
MIME-Version: 1.0
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It's been two days.. gimme gimme! :-)
On 7/16/07, John A. Evans - N0HJ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I just got a response from Paula at AmpMobile Conversions - she said
> that they are supposed to receive pricing info in a day or two, so even
> those who are going to distribute them don't know yet. I love the specs
> but price may be a hangup for me. It may also be nice to sit back and
> wait to see how they work out for others first before I jump in.
>
> john
>
>
PS: Based on their finished prices for the Accent, they are charging a
$15k - $20k premium for everything. Labor and parts. I'd say that
bodes well for the pricing! Or at least, one hopes...
...unless they are getting rollers at some phenomenal deal. Details!!!! :-)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 11:31:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Virtual Instrumentation Solution
Mime-Version: 1.0
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From: Brian Pikkula
> For about $225 I can have a moderately tricked out instrumentation
> system. A $100 usb daq board:
> http://www.labjack.com/labjack_u3.php?prodId=25
> A ~$125 (ebay used) Pocket PC (ie Toshiba Pocket PC E750 WiFi,
> 400Mhz) with touch screen
Sounds hopeful! But there are a few big problems to overcome when
using "indoor" lab equipment and computers in a car:
1. Isolation: The propulsion pack is isolated from ground. Most
equipment assumes the voltages to be measured are grounded.
2. Noise: EVs are among the most electrically noisy environments
you will ever encounter. Computers and measuring equipment goes
nuts or takes bad data.
3. Environmental: Cars have temperature extremes, shock, vibration,
dirt, bugs, water condensation, etc. that destroys unprotected
electronics.
If you can beat these problems, you'll be well on your way to a solution.
--
"Excellence does not require perfection." -- Henry James
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart-at-earthlink.net
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 11:38:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Fast Charging
Mime-Version: 1.0
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From: John G. Lussmyer
>> You need a Rudman Regulator for each individual battery, right?
> Yup, and this being a Sparrow with very limited air flow, I'm also
> hooking a little CPU fan to each reg to keep it cool.
I think I mentioned this before to John, but for the benefit of the rest of the
list...
You can replace the special resistor on the Rudman regulators with a standard
10w or 20w ceramic tube resistor. This type consists of a hollow ceramic tube,
with the resistance wire wound on it, a terminal on each end, and a ceramic
glase over it for insulation.
Route a copper tube through the center of each one. Pump water (or oil or
something) through them all. This carries away the heat neatly, with no need
for fans or heatsinks.
You can also have a single temperature sensor in the water line coming from the
last resistor. When the water reaches "X" degrees, you can use this as an
indication that some (or many) regulators are stuck "fully on" and so turn off
the charger.
--
"Excellence does not require perfection." -- Henry James
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart-at-earthlink.net
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="_dc32fd61-ff85-4818-bfb4-80c54b8da94f_"
From: Michael Mohlere <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: 4002 vs. ADC 8"
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 10:38:09 -0500
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Paul -
=20
I purchased the VW truck from Don. Sending him the check this AM and arran=
ging shipping....guess I'm comitted now!!!
=20
Mike> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 4002 vs. ADC 8"> Date: Wed, 18 Jul
2=
007 18:05:41 -0700> To: [email protected]> > Hi Jim!> > On Jul 17, 2007,=
at 4:14 PM, Jim Husted wrote:> > > Man you guys are sticklers for the fact=
s, lol. Sorry> > I didn't have an MTC at the house to weigh when I was> > p=
osting, LMAO. The basic Presto 7.2" motors lie in> > that 80 lbs range, eit=
her that or I'm stronger than I> > look ;^) I'm gonna have to weigh my MKB =
12 brush core> > as I thought that was about as long a 7 as Prestolite> > m=
ade. Anyway the MTC must be a tad longer than my> > usual 7 I build, so my =
bad 8^)> > Its about 17 1/8 inches long (from end bell to end of shaft), if=
that > helps. It has 8 brushes. I also know (just measured) that the motor=
> case is only 7 inches in diameter (and my spec sheet tells me 7 1/8 > in=
ch!)> > > My ADC book shows the 8's at 125 lbs and so I'm> > quoting there.=
The MTC isn't a lift motor and> > although I've seen them (Dutchman has a =
new one) I'm> > not super versed in them. FWIW I miss the old> > Prestolite=
days 8^(> > I've noticed that motor numbers vary slightly depending on wha=
t > "official" paper you look at. (yours must be wrong, LMAO!) I think > I'=
m going with the ADC 8 inch this time - but just to do something > differen=
t. I've had good success with the old Prestolite motors (plus > they're pre=
tty ;-) In the case in question its pushing a 3400 lb. VW > Pickup around.>=
> [snip]> > > Great to have seen ya down at the track last weekend.> > Had=
fun, hope this helps (I'm sure I'll hear about it> > if it doesn't) hehee.=
8^P> > You'll hear about it one way or the other! We need more EV discussi=
on > on this list. I aim to add some. I just ordered a Zilla controller to =
> add some more EV to my life.> > And... it was great seeing you at the tra=
ck this past weekend too!> > To everyone out there with an EV or a serious =
interest in building an > EV - you *really* need to attend one or more EVen=
ts. You get to see a > range of EVs (not all the EVs this past weekend wher=
e racers.) You > get to meet the people, ranging from owners and builders t=
o racers > and hardware designers (just watch out for Jim <g>.) Its a lot o=
f fun > and a feast for the eyes, even if you have already built an EV or >=
two. I've still got a bit of an EV buzz from last weekend (and I was > jus=
t barely getting over the one from the Greenwood show.) I highly > recommen=
d you just get out and experience it, even if you have to > drive your gass=
er a few hundred miles to attend one!> > Paul "neon" Gooch>=20
_________________________________________________________________
Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary!=A0=A0
http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=3Dchick_wlmailtextlink=
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X-Originating-IP: [199.209.144.221]
From: Michael Mohlere <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: 4002 vs. ADC 8--
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 12:04:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: New battery balancing interface IC for Li-ion
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From: Rod Hower
> Thought this would be of interest to those making battery balancers
> http://www.intersil.com/data/an/an1333.pdf
> Intersil ISL9208
There's a lot of good information here. It's good reading for anyone
contemplating building a balancer, as it covers issues that most beginners will
miss.
"The only thing new is the history you don't know yet." -- Harry Truman
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 09:23:59 -0700
From: john fisher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Virtual Instrumentation Solution
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also OLPC (sub $200 laptops) are coming soon.
They might do rather well in the car environment if kept dry and away from
surges.
(sorry if somebody already posted this, I seem to have missed some posts)
JF
BrownGassyTurd wrote:
> You may also want to check out Fusion Brain:
> http://www.fusioncontrolcentre.com/FusionStore/catalog/index.php
> 1/2 the price, plus they have a following at mp3car.com's forums, a
> CarPC enthusiast community.
>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 09:48:14 -0700
Subject: ScienceDaily: New Flexible Plastic Solar Panels Are Inexpensive And
Easy To Make
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To: Ev List <[email protected]>
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED],
"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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From: GWMobile <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2007/07/070719011151.htm
New Flexible Plastic Solar Panels Are Inexpensive And Easy To Make
Science Daily Researchers at New Jersey Institute of Technology (NJIT)
have developed an inexpensive solar cell that can be painted or printed
on flexible plastic sheets. "The process is simple," said lead
researcher and author Somenath Mitra, PhD, professor and acting chair of
NJIT's Department of Chemistry and Environmental Sciences. "Someday
homeowners will even be able to print sheets of these solar cells with
inexpensive home-based inkjet printers. Consumers can then slap the
finished product on a wall, roof or billboard to create their own power
stations."
NJIT researchers develop inexpensive, easy process to produce solar
panels. (Credit: New Jersey Institute of Technology)
Harvesting energy directly from abundant solar radiation using solar
cells is increasingly emerging as a major component of future global
energy strategy, said Mitra. Yet, when it comes to harnessing renewable
energy, challenges remain. Expensive, large-scale infrastructures such
as wind mills or dams are necessary to drive renewable energy sources,
such as wind or hydroelectric power plants. Purified silicon, also used
for making computer chips, is a core material for fabricating
conventional solar cells. However, the processing of a material such as
purified silicon is beyond the reach of most consumers.
"Developing organic solar cells from polymers, however, is a cheap and
potentially simpler alternative," said Mitra. "We foresee a great deal
of interest in our work because solar cells can be inexpensively printed
or simply painted on exterior building walls and/or roof tops. Imagine
some day driving in your hybrid car with a solar panel painted on the
roof, which is producing electricity to drive the engine. The
opportunities are endless. "
The science goes something like this. When sunlight falls on an organic
solar cell, the energy generates positive and negative charges. If the
charges can be separated and sent to different electrodes, then a
current flows. If not, the energy is wasted. Link cells electronically
and the cells form what is called a panel, like the ones currently seen
on most rooftops. The size of both the cell and panels vary. Cells can
range from 1 millimeter to several feet; panels have no size limits.
The solar cell developed at NJIT uses a carbon nanotubes complex, which
by the way, is a molecular configuration of carbon in a cylindrical
shape. The name is derived from the tube's miniscule size. Scientists
estimate nanotubes to be 50,000 times smaller than a human hair.
Nevertheless, just one nanotube can conduct current better than any
conventional electrical wire. "Actually, nanotubes are significantly
better conductors than copper," Mitra added.
Mitra and his research team took the carbon nanotubes and combined them
with tiny carbon Buckyballs (known as fullerenes) to form snake-like
structures. Buckyballs trap electrons, although they can't make
electrons flow. Add sunlight to excite the polymers, and the buckyballs
will grab the electrons. Nanotubes, behaving like copper wires, will
then be able to make the electrons or current flow.
"Using this unique combination in an organic solar cell recipe can
enhance the efficiency of future painted-on solar cells," said Mitra.
"Someday, I hope to see this process become an inexpensive energy
alternative for households around the world."
"Fullerene single wall carbon nanotube complex for polymer bulk
heterojunction photovoltaic cells," published June 21, 2007 in the
Journal of Materials Chemistry by the Royal Society of Chemistry,
details the process.
Note: This story has been adapted from a news release issued by New
Jersey Institute of Technology.
www.GlobalBoiling.com for daily images about hurricanes, globalwarming
and the melting poles.
www.ElectricQuakes.com daily solar and earthquake images.
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 13:18:44 -0400
From: "Timothy Balcer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Virtual Instrumentation Solution
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Lee,
> 2. Noise: EVs are among the most electrically noisy environments
> you will ever encounter. Computers and measuring equipment goes
> nuts or takes bad data.
>
I was wondering... if you shielded and twisted all of your cable runs,
and made your battery boxes Faraday tight, would that eliminate some
of the noise trouble? I realize you get EMF from the motor and
controller.. could that be limited as well with a faraday shield
surrounding, or perhaps at least shielding in the right directions,
the engine compartment?
--Timothy
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Main Fuse
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 12:40:53 -0500
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(I can't reply to (show) the original thread on this webmail)
Check the data sheet on your fuse used for 1600A peak, most will do several
times their ratings for 30 seconds on acceleration. I usually use 350A
Ferraz or a big fuse by Littelfuse and havn't blown one yet in 72-120V 2400
- 4000lb vehicles and my peak accel current is 500-600 amps sometimes (for
10-30 seconds on accel). Look at the fuse curves so you won't have to buy
such an expensive fuse but make sure it'll break DC at your voltage.
Have a renewable energy day,
Mark, E-Porcshe 914
_________________________________________________________________
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_pcmag_0507
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "brougham Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: New battery balancing interface IC for Li-ion
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 18:31:32 +0100
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From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> From: Rod Hower
> > Thought this would be of interest to those making battery balancers
> > http://www.intersil.com/data/an/an1333.pdf
> > Intersil ISL9208
>
> There's a lot of good information here. It's good reading for anyone
contemplating building a balancer, as it covers issues that most beginners
will miss.
Using an NPN transistor with a gain of 100, the ISL9208 regulator can supply
up to 35mA to an external load and maintain the output at 3.3V ±10%
Really 10%?
Bro
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Main Fuse
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 12:13:42 -0600
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Hello Mark,
See Fuse Info at http://www.fusecoinc.com
Click Application Information
Page down to DC circuit Protection
It will list type of fuses for different HP motors @ Ampere for different
time constants and let-thru tables.
You can also compare the current in AC motors to DC motors and there circuit
protection.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 11:40 AM
Subject: Main Fuse
> (I can't reply to (show) the original thread on this webmail)
>
> Check the data sheet on your fuse used for 1600A peak, most will do
> several
> times their ratings for 30 seconds on acceleration. I usually use 350A
> Ferraz or a big fuse by Littelfuse and havn't blown one yet in 72-120V
> 2400
> - 4000lb vehicles and my peak accel current is 500-600 amps sometimes (for
> 10-30 seconds on accel). Look at the fuse curves so you won't have to buy
> such an expensive fuse but make sure it'll break DC at your voltage.
>
> Have a renewable energy day,
> Mark, E-Porcshe 914
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_pcmag_0507
>
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 12:38:01 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Simple Controller
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
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I know controllers have been beat to death here. From Zillas to homemade
controllers. But can someone please sum it all up for me. Why can't I use
a PWM signal, amplified through a motor driver to switch a high power SCR?
Is this how the old SCR controllers work so can I just use an scr big
enough for the voltage and current I want to handle? Just looking for the
simplest solid state possible.
Im sure everyone is sick of controller talk for a while but I must have
missed this explanation.
Thanks,
Paul
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 12:03:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: forklift battery removal?
To: [email protected]
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My electric forklift has 18 cells to make it 36 volts.
Can each cell be removed individually?
How heavy is each cell?
Would I need a hoist?
Thanks
Michael Golub
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 12:14:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Are AC circuit breakers OK with DC?
To: [email protected]
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I don't know if any other breakers have dual rating (the QO are the only ones
I'm familiar with also) but the AIC (Amp Interrupting Capacity - I think it
stands for) is half of the A.C. rating (5K A instead of 10K A if memory
serves). I think this means that heavy currents could still weld them shut...
use caution!!!
----- Original Message ----
From: Zeke Yewdall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 10:34:41 AM
Subject: Re: Are AC circuit breakers OK with DC?
SquareD QO series breakers are rated for 125vac, or 50 vdc. They are
some of the few AC breakers that even have an DC rating that I am
aware of. So.... beware using AC breakers for DC.
Z
On 7/19/07, Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello Ian,
>
> A AC breaker at the same voltage of the DC source, does not have the larger
> contact pads and spacing as a DC breaker. The spacing is contacts spacing
> is wider in a DC breaker, so when a DC breaker is activated, there will be
> less arc over.
>
> The DC breaker is larger, may have arc suppression and a vent screen for air
> flow as some large AC breakers have.
>
> We have install 120/240 AC thermo trip breakers, (do not use magnetic trip)
> on 28 volt systems in a electronics lab that has not problems. The AC
> voltage rating of the breaker is about 4 times the rating of the DC voltage,
> which been working fine for over 20 years now.
>
> On a 120 VDC system, you may get by with a 480 or 600 VAC breaker, but these
> are large K, L, and M frame breakers.
>
> Also the ampere rating of the circuit is a factor. A breaker ampere rating
> should be 125% over the actual ampere you are using. This is about 16 amps
> on a 20 amp C/B and 75 amps on a 100 amp C/B. This is the allow maximum
> ampere we can use on rewire. We normally install at the 200% rating on new
> work.
>
> On a 20 amp 120 VAC C/B, the 200% rating would be about 10 amps for AC
> loads. For DC loads on a A/C C/B, it is best to cut this to about 5 amps
> for a longer life.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ian Hooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 5:12 AM
> Subject: Are AC circuit breakers OK with DC?
>
>
> > For example, would this work as a breaker in an EV?
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/Breaker-3-Pole-Eaton-Heinemann-GJ3-160-
> > amp_W0QQitemZ150043572855QQihZ005QQcategoryZ104232QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> >
> > -Ian
> >
> >
>
>
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Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 20:56:12 +0200
From: Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Simple Controller
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what's an SCR?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I know controllers have been beat to death here. From Zillas to homemade
> controllers. But can someone please sum it all up for me. Why can't I use
> a PWM signal, amplified through a motor driver to switch a high power SCR?
> Is this how the old SCR controllers work so can I just use an scr big
> enough for the voltage and current I want to handle? Just looking for the
> simplest solid state possible.
> Im sure everyone is sick of controller talk for a while but I must have
> missed this explanation.
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
>
>
Subject: Re: Simple Controller
From: Christopher Robison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
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Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 15:10:33 -0500
Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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On Thu, 2007-07-19 at 20:56 +0200, Dan Frederiksen wrote:
> what's an SCR?
It's a "Silicon Controlled Rectifier". Controllers can be built with
them, and in fact for a long time they were the only practical way to
build a high-current solid-state electronic motor controller. I believe
they're still the most power-dense form of silicon switch.
The trouble is, though they're easy to turn on, they're hard to turn off
in a DC application.
More information:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicon_controlled_rectifier
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_7/5.html
http://www.play-hookey.com/semiconductors/scr.html
http://www.google.com/search?q=silicon+controlled+rectifier
--
Christopher Robison
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://ohmbre.org <-- 1999 Isuzu Hombre + Z2K + Warp13!
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Dmitri" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Simple Controller
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 16:12:11 -0400
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Funny.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Frederiksen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: Simple Controller
> what's an SCR?
>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: forklift battery removal?
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 14:17:04 -0600
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Hello Mike,
I have work these type of batteries. They may be welded on lead link
together which takes a hole saw, but without the teeth except for a planer
blade, something like a wood plug drill.
The potting compound is remove and pull up by the cell sides with clamp on
tools.
It takes a long pencil flame with battery lead sticks to weld the links on
after the maintenance is done on these cells, which can be broke down,
separator replacements, grid replacement and replacing the battery acid with
the same specific gravity reading that was taken out.
Normally you need a battery shop to do this maintenance that has plastic or
glass cleaning tanks for inserting the cell grids right away or they will
began to sulfate. Have battery acid disposal containers, sulfuric acid and
distill water storage.
You need all the safety requirements and protective gear to do this job.
You need a lot of air exchange in the battery maintenance rooms. We have
two large 3 foot diameter aircraft type fan blades in the ceiling that can
exchange the air in less then 10 seconds.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "mike golub" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 1:03 PM
Subject: forklift battery removal?
> My electric forklift has 18 cells to make it 36 volts.
>
> Can each cell be removed individually?
> How heavy is each cell?
>
> Would I need a hoist?
>
> Thanks
>
> Michael Golub
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Got a little couch potato?
> Check out fun summer activities for kids.
> http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz
>
>
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