EV Digest 7060
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Bridgestone Ecopia EP-03 Tires- how about B381's ?
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Corded mower
by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Air-cooled VW to 8" Motor adaptor plate Question
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) If you're not John Wayland, ignore this message
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) single speed vs xmission
by Jeremy Rutman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Alaska Renewable Energy Fair - August 11th
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Battery for a Bicycle?
by "Joseph T. " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Battery for a Bicycle?
by James Drysdale <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Battery for a Bicycle?
by Ian Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Capacitor recommendations, ripple current
by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Indicator lamps for contactor operation
by Frank John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Battery for a Bicycle?
by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Corded mower
by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jukka_J=E4rvinen?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Corded mower
by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: Indicator lamps for contactor operation - LED?
by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Indicator lamps for contactor operation
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Corded mower
by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Jukka_J=E4rvinen?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) I love my job a.k.a. I brought home so much ****
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
19) Re: Indicator lamps for contactor operation
by "Zeke Yewdall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Corded mower
by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) E-Porsche 914 Feeling Better
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Indicator lamps for contactor operation
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: What is the typical amperage draw of the field for a sepex motor?
by Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
It really depends on what your comparing it to. I'm
sure if you had a really heavy wheel with a sticky
soft tire and compared it to a light weight wheel with
LRR tire 20% wouldn't be all that out of the question.
Let me put it in terms of my experience. My Saturn had
a set of mixed no name weather rotted tires on it. I
think I put 15 miles on them before getting them off
the car for safety reasons. At that time 40mph took
about 70 amps to maintain (I hadn't gotten an
alignment at that point in time), right after the
Goodyear Integrity tires were put on (they are at
least lower rolling resistance) it dropped this to 60
amps. This is with a 144 volt pack, but 60 vs 70 amps
is a 16% reduction in consumption alone, and when you
figure the peukert capacity that would very well
equate to 20%.
Now if you have a decently efficient tire to begin
with the benefit might not be so great.
Hope that helps,
Later,
Rick
92 Saturn SC conversion
AZ Alt Fuel plates "ZEROGAS"
> > Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2007 15:09:40 -0400
> From: "Joseph T. " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Bridgestone Ecopia EP-03 Tires- how
> about B381's ?
>
> How beneficial is using a LRR tire? EV calculators
> shows about a 20%
> improvement in range, but that sounds like a little
> too much. Does
> using LRR tires signifigantly reduce vehicle
> performence?
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell.
http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
cool. isn't that ringing annoying in the long run though?
what frequency is that at? 6000Hz?
no caps in the controller?
Dan
Jukka Järvinen skrev:
I was involved in development of this EV mowler. And it operates 8
hours on batteries.
http://www.actioneco.com/
So I would say it IS doable with batteries too..
-Jukka
David Hankins kirjoitti:
The problem with batteries is that it takes about 2.5 to 3 hours to
do the
lawn. I don't think I can get that many batteries onboard without
overloading it.
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Zeke Yewdall [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 10,
2007 8:50 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Corded mower
You are looking at at least a 5 or 7 HP electric motor I'd bet. That
means 240vac, 40A circuit or more -- not a regular extension cord. If
you use a regular AC induction motor, it also tends to overheat under
voltage drop -- so a 200 foot cord is bad news.
I'd highly recommend doing a battery electric instead of corded
electric for something like this. It'll be easier, and likely cheaper
too.
Z
On 6/8/07, David Hankins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I'm thinking about converting my riding lawn mower to a corded
electric.
I have some ideas to deal with the cord. I was thinking about using
one of
those cord reel setups. We'll have to see how it holds up reeling under
load. Or maybe a coiled cord affair with a mast on the mower and
elevated
attach point on the house. The farthest point is around 200'+ from the
plug.
I have almost an acre under grass and It will get kind of dicey out
on the
edge where about a 1/3 acre chunk has a dozen trees on it.
The main question that I have is: The current ICE motor on it is a 19HP
Briggs. What HP electric motor do I need to replace that?
Thanks
David
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My friend has a Canadian Electric adaptor plate for an air cooled VW to an 8"
motor as pictured at the bottom of this page:
http://www.canev.com/KitsComp/Components/Adapter%20page.htm
The stock flywheel seems to have to set down about ~3/8" into the housing with
about an RCH clearance. I mean its pretty tight.
The flywheel doesn't seem to be perfectly true or else the alignment holes are
not prefectly true on center because it rubs the
housing. We wound up trying 3 different flywheels as well as rotating them 90
degrees until just about the last one fit and
didn't rub the side of the adaptor housing. So has anyone done a Bug that can
tell us if the flywheel is supposed to sit down
inside that housing, or are we mounting it in too far? If it is supposed to
fit inside somewhat, is there any problem turning off
the ring gear as well as .125" off the OD.
While we got one iteration of our different fitments to work without rubbing
I'm concerned that the weight of the motor hanging
unsupported off the transaxle might set down on the flywheel causing it to rub
again. Would .125" off the O.D. be sufficient
clearance?
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>> Paging John Wayland <<
We have unfinished work to complete in WZ and August
is approaching quickly! Pls contact me off line.
Thanks,
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
the thing is i think i need some reduction over the ~4:1 of the
differential. also the existing gear fits where its supposed to and
includes the diff. getting a diff with 10:1 ratio emans buying it from azure
or electroauto which is fine but i dont need it right now so i can
save some time and $
do you have a special fixed reduction on your cycles or do your
motorcycle electric motors have
similar torque/rpm to the engines they replace
From: dale henderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
single speed harder and more expensive? i'm still in
the planning stages of a four wheeled vehicle but from
working on electric motorcycles i find single speed
easy while hooking up to an existing trany seems
harder? that gives me hope that an electric car is
not as hard as i'm making it out to be!
Jeremy Rutman
Technion Physics Dep't
Haifa 32000
Israel
972 4 8293669
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello all,
As feverishly as I'm working on the Pinto to get it rolling by the Alaska
Renewable Energy Fair
http://www.alaskarenewableenergy.org/ I may not quite have it complete. I just
got some bad news that Genesis batteries are
between 14 and 20 weeks out and I haven't ordered them yet. My plan all along
was to put 144V worth of the Deka's from my truck
into it for the 500 mile break in on the Dutchman Heavy Duty Street & Strip
rear end with the 3.25 gear set. But still, even if I
get an order in before the August 11th 10% price increase I probably won't be
racing at full pack voltage by the time the track
closes in September.
So my thoughts are turning toward getting the Electrabishi cleaned up for the
Alaska renewable Energy Fair on August 11th (what a
coincidence with the hike in battery prices because of the cost of lead :-O I
need to blow out all the road dust from the liberal
graveling of the roads here over the winter and put a nice shine on all the
green and red under the hood. I still have all my
propaga made up from last year and need to start getting copies made up. All
this as well as tyring to help/encourage Bart to get
his 71 Super Beetle done for the show as well ;-)
So I just wanted to invite anyone with an EV related business to send me a
stack of your business cards and I'll have a table at
the fair to set them out. Please, no large flyers or the organizers may want
me to pay a registration fee. I'll be exempt as
long as I keep it informational and non-business. However I could probably get
away with handing out business cards, or have them
in a little business card caddy for people to pick from. Contact me off list
for an address to send them if you're interested.
oh yeah John Wayland, dude, you gotta get me some of that footage from your
weekend with "Wall Street" as well as any good stuff
from the Wayland Invite to run on my video loop for the fair
8^)
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I need a battery that is as light as possible for my bicycle. Range
doesn't matter (and not to pricey please)
The controller for the bicycle only pulls 25 amps. Since it's just 25
amps, can I use cell-phone batteries?
Before I had sealed-lead acid batteries.
Is it okay to use the original charger for a the new battery type?
(lithium, NiMH, or Ni-cad probably)
And how about the "fuel meter." Is it okay to use a different type of
battery, (a different chemistry and probably a different amp-hour
rating) with the same old "fuel meter." I think the "fuel meter" is
really just a volt meter.
Is it possible to harm the system in any kind of way by using a
different battery type or amp-hour rating?
Lots of questions....:)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
G'day Joseph,
I am in the same boat as you, building an electric bicycle.
And yes, I wanted them to be as light as possible.
I priced up Ni-Cd, Ni-MH, lithium & lead.
Eventually I settled on those bloody heavy lead-acid batteries.
For a 36v 40Ah battery, Ni-MH was about $AU2400.
For a 36v 80Ah lead, $AU525.
That's excluding charging systems.
Now 40Ah for a bicycle is a fair slab, if the capacity was smaller,
lighter non-lead might be okay.
You say that range doesn't matter? Do nicad cells generally have a
higher discharge rate than Ni-MH of similar capacity?
What I found was that so long as the capacity is was under 1.5Ah, the
Ni-Cd cell was just as expensive as a similar NiMH. Above 1.8Ah, the
price difference became much more apparent. I could buy a 4Ah Ni-MH for
the price of a 1.8Ah Ni-Cd. Although the cadmium cell was a Sanyo with a
spec sheet, and the metal hydride a generic....... So not exactly apples
with apples. More like apples with nashi pears.
One more thing, your system draws 25 amps.
So does mine.
To what extent does range not matter?
A 40Ah battery won't last 2 hours.
Which is why I settled on an 80Ah lead solution, albeit a heavy one.
About chargers, sorry mate, all I have to offer is 2nd hand anecdotal
advice.
Best to let the more experienced (and smarter ;-P) people here answer that.
Cheers,
James Drysdale.
Joseph T. wrote:
> I need a battery that is as light as possible for my bicycle. Range
> doesn't matter (and not to pricey please)
>
> The controller for the bicycle only pulls 25 amps. Since it's just 25
> amps, can I use cell-phone batteries?
>
> Before I had sealed-lead acid batteries.
>
> Is it okay to use the original charger for a the new battery type?
> (lithium, NiMH, or Ni-cad probably)
>
> And how about the "fuel meter." Is it okay to use a different type of
> battery, (a different chemistry and probably a different amp-hour
> rating) with the same old "fuel meter." I think the "fuel meter" is
> really just a volt meter.
>
> Is it possible to harm the system in any kind of way by using a
> different battery type or amp-hour rating?
>
> Lots of questions....:)
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Joseph,
Replies inline..
On 25/07/2007, at 4:20 PM, Joseph T. wrote:
I need a battery that is as light as possible for my bicycle. Range
doesn't matter (and not to pricey please)
The controller for the bicycle only pulls 25 amps. Since it's just 25
amps, can I use cell-phone batteries?
Not literally batteries from a cell phone, but if you just mean
lithium / LiPo batteries then yes, you could use them. In fact I'd
say some kind of Lithium batteries would be great if money is no
object - they're usually around $1/Wh. Check out kokam.com for examples.
What sort of capacity were you after? NiMHs would do well and aren't
too expensive (as low at $0.50/Wh), but they're hard to find larger
than ~15Ah and they don't work too well in parallel, so might not
give you enough range.
Lead acid is definitely the cheapest option by far - something like
$0.10 - $0.25/Wh!
Before I had sealed-lead acid batteries.
Is it okay to use the original charger for a the new battery type?
(lithium, NiMH, or Ni-cad probably)
Probably not, unfortunately.
Lead acids are relatively easy to charge, your current charger
probably just outputs a certain voltage with an upper limit on
current. Nickel batteries need a peak charger, i.e a charger which
automatically stops charging when the battery voltage stops
increasing. Lithiums need a constant current - constant voltage
charging system with quite a precise termination voltage.
At any rate, you should be able to pick up a charger designed for
whatever chemistry you go for fairly cheaply.
And how about the "fuel meter." Is it okay to use a different type of
battery, (a different chemistry and probably a different amp-hour
rating) with the same old "fuel meter." I think the "fuel meter" is
really just a volt meter.
Hmm you'd have to match the new pack voltage with what the meter is
expecting pretty closely, and different chemistries have different
discharge curves so you would lose some linearity. There's no
particular reason why it couldn't be used though.
Is it possible to harm the system in any kind of way by using a
different battery type or amp-hour rating?
So long as your battery voltage is the same as the one you're
replacing, and the batteries can deliver the required current (25A is
peanuts) it should be fine.
-Ian
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
Panasonic has parts with reasonably good ratings at reasonably good
prices -- a good combination. You can get better parts, but they cost
a lot more.
which are better than the panasonics? higher power density
Dan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm interested in wiring indicator lamps to the contactor output (2 contactor
system) to show state i.e. open or closed. That means finding a small light or
lamp that works at pack voltage (120 VDC nominal). Mouser shows a lamp
(606-CM8-3995) that I think will do the job but I'm open to suggestions or
experience. Has anyone found an interesting way to accomplish this? Will the
lamp I mentioned work?
TIA
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo!
FareChase.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What system voltage?
if around 36v then it might be funny to use those A123 filled DeWalt
powertool packs as is.
they have great power and claim very long lifespan. built-in BMS and
should naturally have chargers available off the shelf.
they are not free but you can get them on ebay new for 100-120$ for a
36v 2.3Ah block
for instance 4 such packs should be about what you use if you pedal hard
for an hour. maybe 20mile/30km range? depending on efficiencies, I'm
guessing a bit
otherwise PHET also has the same technology cells and they seem willing
to sell you cells at bulk prices no matter your volume. those are 3.2V
1.15Ah cells you have to put together yourself but they only cost 2.6$
per cell. which is 0.7$/Wh. that's comparable to expensive deep cycle
lead acids in price and considering they might last 10+ years and weigh
1/3 I think it's a bit of a no brainer really.
that said I've never personally tried them but I hear good things. from
what I understand you write them an email about how many you want and
they give them to you :) no sure how they accept payment
Dan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Read the specs from the site. Those are servos.
Actually all parts are common industrial components and can be found
from cataloques => can have spareparts easily and cheaply.
Oh.. but isn't i *DAN* .. sure.. I did not hear any ringing noise?
Did any one else ? Perhapes it's not the device that's ringing... eh.. ;)
There have been talks about bringing this version also out for
professional use in normal lawns. No need for such accurate grass length
measurements.
For the original problem... I think there could be a chance to make a
conversion kit for certain OEM mowlers too. Prices will be interesting
with Lions but hey.. quantities are what they are.
The battery pack exisits already and could be sold as is. It can be 8x
150/400 Ah (LiFePO4) or 7x 200/600 Ah (LiCoO). 3,2 kW charger and IP44
casing.
-Jukka
Dan Frederiksen kirjoitti:
cool. isn't that ringing annoying in the long run though?
what frequency is that at? 6000Hz?
no caps in the controller?
Dan
Jukka Järvinen skrev:
I was involved in development of this EV mowler. And it operates 8
hours on batteries.
http://www.actioneco.com/
So I would say it IS doable with batteries too..
-Jukka
David Hankins kirjoitti:
The problem with batteries is that it takes about 2.5 to 3 hours to
do the
lawn. I don't think I can get that many batteries onboard without
overloading it.
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Zeke Yewdall [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 10,
2007 8:50 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Corded mower
You are looking at at least a 5 or 7 HP electric motor I'd bet. That
means 240vac, 40A circuit or more -- not a regular extension cord. If
you use a regular AC induction motor, it also tends to overheat under
voltage drop -- so a 200 foot cord is bad news.
I'd highly recommend doing a battery electric instead of corded
electric for something like this. It'll be easier, and likely cheaper
too.
Z
On 6/8/07, David Hankins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I'm thinking about converting my riding lawn mower to a corded
electric.
I have some ideas to deal with the cord. I was thinking about using
one of
those cord reel setups. We'll have to see how it holds up reeling under
load. Or maybe a coiled cord affair with a mast on the mower and
elevated
attach point on the house. The farthest point is around 200'+ from the
plug.
I have almost an acre under grass and It will get kind of dicey out
on the
edge where about a 1/3 acre chunk has a dozen trees on it.
The main question that I have is: The current ICE motor on it is a 19HP
Briggs. What HP electric motor do I need to replace that?
Thanks
David
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
4:05 into the video it's the clearest. fairly clear high pitch ringing.
I tried to get the audio out for a frequency analysis but it's asf and I
didn't have software for that.
I'm pretty sure the ringing is there
Dan
Jukka Järvinen wrote:
Read the specs from the site. Those are servos.
Actually all parts are common industrial components and can be found
from cataloques => can have spareparts easily and cheaply.
Oh.. but isn't i *DAN* .. sure.. I did not hear any ringing noise?
Did any one else ? Perhapes it's not the device that's ringing... eh.. ;)
There have been talks about bringing this version also out for
professional use in normal lawns. No need for such accurate grass
length measurements.
For the original problem... I think there could be a chance to make a
conversion kit for certain OEM mowlers too. Prices will be interesting
with Lions but hey.. quantities are what they are.
The battery pack exisits already and could be sold as is. It can be 8x
150/400 Ah (LiFePO4) or 7x 200/600 Ah (LiCoO). 3,2 kW charger and IP44
casing.
-Jukka
Dan Frederiksen kirjoitti:
cool. isn't that ringing annoying in the long run though?
what frequency is that at? 6000Hz?
no caps in the controller?
Dan
Jukka Järvinen skrev:
I was involved in development of this EV mowler. And it operates 8
hours on batteries.
http://www.actioneco.com/
So I would say it IS doable with batteries too..
-Jukka
David Hankins kirjoitti:
The problem with batteries is that it takes about 2.5 to 3 hours to
do the
lawn. I don't think I can get that many batteries onboard without
overloading it.
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Zeke Yewdall [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June
10, 2007 8:50 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Corded mower
You are looking at at least a 5 or 7 HP electric motor I'd bet. That
means 240vac, 40A circuit or more -- not a regular extension cord. If
you use a regular AC induction motor, it also tends to overheat under
voltage drop -- so a 200 foot cord is bad news.
I'd highly recommend doing a battery electric instead of corded
electric for something like this. It'll be easier, and likely cheaper
too.
Z
On 6/8/07, David Hankins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I'm thinking about converting my riding lawn mower to a corded
electric.
I have some ideas to deal with the cord. I was thinking about
using one of
those cord reel setups. We'll have to see how it holds up reeling
under
load. Or maybe a coiled cord affair with a mast on the mower and
elevated
attach point on the house. The farthest point is around 200'+ from
the
plug.
I have almost an acre under grass and It will get kind of dicey
out on the
edge where about a 1/3 acre chunk has a dozen trees on it.
The main question that I have is: The current ICE motor on it is a
19HP
Briggs. What HP electric motor do I need to replace that?
Thanks
David
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would use a panel -mount LED (or just a bare LED, depending on where it's
mounted)
The disadvantage is you're wasting about 2 watts in the dropping resistor,
but an incandescent bulb would use close to that anyway.
On the plus side, it won't burn out or break from vibration.
For a panel mount, I use Digi-key's 67-1167-ND ( red) or yellow or green.
You would need a dropping resistor of about 6000 ohms and 3 or more watts to
give you about 20ma through the LED.
Phil Marino
From: Frank John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Indicator lamps for contactor operation
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 03:42:40 -0700 (PDT)
I'm interested in wiring indicator lamps to the contactor output (2
contactor system) to show state i.e. open or closed. That means finding a
small light or lamp that works at pack voltage (120 VDC nominal). Mouser
shows a lamp (606-CM8-3995) that I think will do the job but I'm open to
suggestions or experience. Has anyone found an interesting way to
accomplish this? Will the lamp I mentioned work?
TIA
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo!
FareChase.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/
_________________________________________________________________
http://liveearth.msn.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you come off the line voltage to a indicator or to any other device, you
should install fuses on these lines as close to the contactor as possible.
When we install AC magnetic contactors in are electrical work, these
contactors have a built in attachment holders to install a fuse holder, a
extra power pole or small micro switches.
Some DC contactors have built in micro switch or you can add a micro switch
to the contactor if it is design for it. Then you can use a 12 VDC source
through these micro switches to LED indicators which is a lot safer which
will give you a close or open indication.
Never remove a incandescent lamp from a holder while there is power to the
lamp holder. One person try to change out a burn out bulb and he shorted
the base against the side and burnt his fingers off. They tap off the line
current without any fusing.
It is better to use a LED on the lower voltage or a NEON on the higher
voltage.
The fuses should be rated for about 150 volts and at about 1 amp for
indicator lamps.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 4:42 AM
Subject: Indicator lamps for contactor operation
> I'm interested in wiring indicator lamps to the contactor output (2
> contactor system) to show state i.e. open or closed. That means finding a
> small light or lamp that works at pack voltage (120 VDC nominal). Mouser
> shows a lamp (606-CM8-3995) that I think will do the job but I'm open to
> suggestions or experience. Has anyone found an interesting way to
> accomplish this? Will the lamp I mentioned work?
>
> TIA
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo!
> FareChase.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ok. Dan .. I admit. It does have ringing noise when driving in low
speeds. It is thou because the motor controllers are attached to chassis
on that proto. The chassis works as speaker for them. We tested it with
insulation parts. That noise will not be present in the production models.
It is quite silent. If you listen carefully you can hear birds and other
surrounding noises in the background. The camera boosts the microphone
levels if there is little noise and the mic is directed to the mowler.
But.. better you come and ride on it. So you know then.
I have to check if I have somewhere the noise level tests.. how many dB
at what distance.. That's perhaps easier for you to compare.
-Jukka
Dan Frederiksen kirjoitti:
4:05 into the video it's the clearest. fairly clear high pitch ringing.
I tried to get the audio out for a frequency analysis but it's asf and I
didn't have software for that.
I'm pretty sure the ringing is there
Dan
Jukka Järvinen wrote:
Read the specs from the site. Those are servos.
Actually all parts are common industrial components and can be found
from cataloques => can have spareparts easily and cheaply.
Oh.. but isn't i *DAN* .. sure.. I did not hear any ringing noise?
Did any one else ? Perhapes it's not the device that's ringing... eh.. ;)
There have been talks about bringing this version also out for
professional use in normal lawns. No need for such accurate grass
length measurements.
For the original problem... I think there could be a chance to make a
conversion kit for certain OEM mowlers too. Prices will be interesting
with Lions but hey.. quantities are what they are.
The battery pack exisits already and could be sold as is. It can be 8x
150/400 Ah (LiFePO4) or 7x 200/600 Ah (LiCoO). 3,2 kW charger and IP44
casing.
-Jukka
Dan Frederiksen kirjoitti:
cool. isn't that ringing annoying in the long run though?
what frequency is that at? 6000Hz?
no caps in the controller?
Dan
Jukka Järvinen skrev:
I was involved in development of this EV mowler. And it operates 8
hours on batteries.
http://www.actioneco.com/
So I would say it IS doable with batteries too..
-Jukka
David Hankins kirjoitti:
The problem with batteries is that it takes about 2.5 to 3 hours to
do the
lawn. I don't think I can get that many batteries onboard without
overloading it.
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Zeke Yewdall [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June
10, 2007 8:50 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Corded mower
You are looking at at least a 5 or 7 HP electric motor I'd bet. That
means 240vac, 40A circuit or more -- not a regular extension cord. If
you use a regular AC induction motor, it also tends to overheat under
voltage drop -- so a 200 foot cord is bad news.
I'd highly recommend doing a battery electric instead of corded
electric for something like this. It'll be easier, and likely cheaper
too.
Z
On 6/8/07, David Hankins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I'm thinking about converting my riding lawn mower to a corded
electric.
I have some ideas to deal with the cord. I was thinking about
using one of
those cord reel setups. We'll have to see how it holds up reeling
under
load. Or maybe a coiled cord affair with a mast on the mower and
elevated
attach point on the house. The farthest point is around 200'+ from
the
plug.
I have almost an acre under grass and It will get kind of dicey
out on the
edge where about a 1/3 acre chunk has a dozen trees on it.
The main question that I have is: The current ICE motor on it is a
19HP
Briggs. What HP electric motor do I need to replace that?
Thanks
David
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am interning for a company that makes A/C and heat pumps for Yachts.
Since each boat is different there is alot of testing that goes on in the
engineering dept. In the summer they clean out the warehouse of all the
samples and unused parts. I got 4 nice deep cycle batteries, 1 12v, and 3
8v Trojan AGM(maybe they were concords). 4 PM 12v motors at 1/2 hp and
1/3. A bunch of 3/4 AC motors. A box of little muffin fans. Some solid
state relays. A small 1cu ft drawer freezer. A 30 lb box of #4 battery
wire. I was in heaven. It was like Christmas.
Are the PM motors good for anything? I was thinking electric bike but the
hp may be to low. Can they be run at higher voltages like a series motor?
I understand that overvoltaging them too much will weaken or destroy the
PM field?
Thanks,
Paul
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Neon lamps or LED's (With a big series dropping resistor) are better
than incandescent for high voltage, tiny lightbulbs -- the problem is
that the wire in the lightbulb has to be very thin for a high voltage
low current application, and they aren't really durable. Low voltage
is alot easier to design tiny lightbulbs for. Plus, your pack voltage
is widely variable depending on whether it's under charge, or under
acceleration. Neon is often used with a series dropping resistor too
(which tends to take some of the variation out of varying pack
voltage).
Z
On 7/25/07, Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
If you come off the line voltage to a indicator or to any other device, you
should install fuses on these lines as close to the contactor as possible.
When we install AC magnetic contactors in are electrical work, these
contactors have a built in attachment holders to install a fuse holder, a
extra power pole or small micro switches.
Some DC contactors have built in micro switch or you can add a micro switch
to the contactor if it is design for it. Then you can use a 12 VDC source
through these micro switches to LED indicators which is a lot safer which
will give you a close or open indication.
Never remove a incandescent lamp from a holder while there is power to the
lamp holder. One person try to change out a burn out bulb and he shorted
the base against the side and burnt his fingers off. They tap off the line
current without any fusing.
It is better to use a LED on the lower voltage or a NEON on the higher
voltage.
The fuses should be rated for about 150 volts and at about 1 amp for
indicator lamps.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 4:42 AM
Subject: Indicator lamps for contactor operation
> I'm interested in wiring indicator lamps to the contactor output (2
> contactor system) to show state i.e. open or closed. That means finding a
> small light or lamp that works at pack voltage (120 VDC nominal). Mouser
> shows a lamp (606-CM8-3995) that I think will do the job but I'm open to
> suggestions or experience. Has anyone found an interesting way to
> accomplish this? Will the lamp I mentioned work?
>
> TIA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo!
> FareChase.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
what model is the controller?
Jukka Järvinen wrote:
Ok. Dan .. I admit. It does have ringing noise when driving in low
speeds. It is thou because the motor controllers are attached to
chassis on that proto. The chassis works as speaker for them. We
tested it with insulation parts. That noise will not be present in the
production models.
It is quite silent. If you listen carefully you can hear birds and
other surrounding noises in the background. The camera boosts the
microphone levels if there is little noise and the mic is directed to
the mowler.
But.. better you come and ride on it. So you know then.
I have to check if I have somewhere the noise level tests.. how many
dB at what distance.. That's perhaps easier for you to compare.
-Jukka
Dan Frederiksen kirjoitti:
4:05 into the video it's the clearest. fairly clear high pitch ringing.
I tried to get the audio out for a frequency analysis but it's asf
and I didn't have software for that.
I'm pretty sure the ringing is there
Dan
Jukka Järvinen wrote:
Read the specs from the site. Those are servos.
Actually all parts are common industrial components and can be found
from cataloques => can have spareparts easily and cheaply.
Oh.. but isn't i *DAN* .. sure.. I did not hear any ringing
noise? Did any one else ? Perhapes it's not the device that's
ringing... eh.. ;)
There have been talks about bringing this version also out for
professional use in normal lawns. No need for such accurate grass
length measurements.
For the original problem... I think there could be a chance to make
a conversion kit for certain OEM mowlers too. Prices will be
interesting with Lions but hey.. quantities are what they are.
The battery pack exisits already and could be sold as is. It can be
8x 150/400 Ah (LiFePO4) or 7x 200/600 Ah (LiCoO). 3,2 kW charger and
IP44 casing.
-Jukka
Dan Frederiksen kirjoitti:
cool. isn't that ringing annoying in the long run though?
what frequency is that at? 6000Hz?
no caps in the controller?
Dan
Jukka Järvinen skrev:
I was involved in development of this EV mowler. And it operates 8
hours on batteries.
http://www.actioneco.com/
So I would say it IS doable with batteries too..
-Jukka
David Hankins kirjoitti:
The problem with batteries is that it takes about 2.5 to 3 hours
to do the
lawn. I don't think I can get that many batteries onboard without
overloading it.
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Zeke Yewdall [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June
10, 2007 8:50 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Corded mower
You are looking at at least a 5 or 7 HP electric motor I'd bet.
That
means 240vac, 40A circuit or more -- not a regular extension
cord. If
you use a regular AC induction motor, it also tends to overheat
under
voltage drop -- so a 200 foot cord is bad news.
I'd highly recommend doing a battery electric instead of corded
electric for something like this. It'll be easier, and likely
cheaper
too.
Z
On 6/8/07, David Hankins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I'm thinking about converting my riding lawn mower to a corded
electric.
I have some ideas to deal with the cord. I was thinking about
using one of
those cord reel setups. We'll have to see how it holds up
reeling under
load. Or maybe a coiled cord affair with a mast on the mower and
elevated
attach point on the house. The farthest point is around 200'+
from the
plug.
I have almost an acre under grass and It will get kind of dicey
out on the
edge where about a 1/3 acre chunk has a dozen trees on it.
The main question that I have is: The current ICE motor on it is
a 19HP
Briggs. What HP electric motor do I need to replace that?
Thanks
David
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
Thanks Rod, Paul, Roger and Dave for the valuable information. (This
hotmail, <gmail or yahoo> doesn't display the original message when in
evlist Digest Mode). E-Brakes: I found out last night when researching the
rear brakes in my Tech-tips manual on the 74' 914 that the rear "venting
clearance" is critical. I adjusted it before to .008" as recommended but
the adjusting screws are a poor design. On the outside the caliper is
tightenned by turning the 4mm allen screw *counterclockwise* and the inner
screw *clockwise*. Now for the fun part, the lock nut around the allen
screw really isn't a lock nut it turns with the allen screw on the outer
adjustment *and* the 13mm plastic cap nut that's turned *clockwise*
inadvertently loosens the pad since it turns the nut below thus screwing up
the .008" feeler guage adjustment just made. So I put blue locktight on the
allen screw, elephant snot (aka silicone rubber) on the funky nut and
squished the plastic cap on instead of turning it *and* at the same time
holding the feeler guage in place and moving the rotor back and forth to
make sure the adjustment wasn't drifting. (and rub my tummy & chew gum at
the same time:-). The allen screw is course, only an 1/8th turn one way is
too far and the other way locks the wheel.
Anyway, that fixed it, the emergency brake is now really an emergency brake
(can lock the rear wheels and stop). And the main brake peddle is up higher
and stops the car much faster with the 17mm brake cylinder.
Batts: Yes it looks like I'm watering the STM5-180's too much Rod, I'll
water right at the end of charge or at 20 minutes and go more miles, 1k
between watering. The manual is incorrect in recommending the 1 hour delay
as the water line settles back down and then on the next charge it spills
over electrolyte on the ground.
have a renewable energy day,
Mark
_________________________________________________________________
http://newlivehotmail.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Frank John wrote:
I'm interested in wiring indicator lamps to the contactor output
(2 contactor system) to show state i.e. open or closed. That means
finding a small light or lamp that works at pack voltage (120 VDC
nominal). Mouser shows a lamp (606-CM8-3995) that I think will do
the job but I'm open to suggestions or experience. Has anyone found
an interesting way to accomplish this? Will the lamp I mentioned
work?
It will work, but high-voltage low-current light bulbs have a very thin
fragile filament. They have short life when there is any shock or
vibration (which is inevitable in a car).
I'd suggest using a neon lamp. They take much less power, and last
"forever". They are available in many panel-mount styles, complete with
the series resistor they need. Neon lamps work on DC as well as AC; the
only difference is that only one of the two elements inside glows.
Neon glows orange. Similar lamps are available with other gases for
other colors (blue, green, white, etc.)
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Zeke,
6.8 Ohms is pretty low for a true shunt motor. Lee's
got a pretty good take on it. But I think your
nameplate said this was blower cooled, so field watts
could be even lower, maybe 200 to 300. Good news is
that you'll be able to over excite for accel torque.
If you can come up with a variable power supply for
the field, 100 V, 15A, or at least 50 V, 8A, you could
run some bench tests to figure out how to control the
field. If you can drive the armature of the beast at
a constant RPM, you can take a no load magnetization
curve. That would be helpful when you design your
control and give you a real good idea of safe field
current.
Jeff
--- Zeke Yewdall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Thanks Lee. Yup, 220A is the total continuous
> rating, which is
> 21.2kW at 96 volts.
>
> Man, I can't wait to get my donor vehicle here so I
> get start testing
> everything in the car, instead of just sitting on
> the workbench (it's
> in my friend's shop 400 miles away).
>
> Zeke
>
> On 7/24/07, Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Zeke Yewdall wrote:
> > > It's got two separate terminals for the field.
> And, I measured the
> > > resistance between them -- 6.8ohms. Which I
> guess would translate to
> > > only 14 amps at rated voltage (96 volts)
> >
> > That sounds about right for a sepex motor. Field
> power is on the order
> > of 2% of armature power. I think you said this was
> a 96v 22 horsepower
> > motor? That means armature power is around 22kw.
> 2% of 22kw is 440 watts
> > for the field. With a 6.8 ohm field, 440 watts is
> 57 volts at 7.67 amps.
> > This is an educated guess as to what the field
> could stand for (say) one
> > hour.
> >
> > The full 96v into a 6.8 ohm field would be over
> 1350 watts, which would
> > burn it out in 5-10 minutes. So, it's unlikely to
> be a shunt motor,
> > which would have had a field wound to withstand
> full armature voltage
> > for an hour or more.
> >
> > --
> > Ring the bells that still can ring
> > Forget the perfect offering
> > There is a crack in everything
> > That's how the light gets in -- Leonard
> Cohen
> > --
> > Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377,
> leeahart_at_earthlink.net
> >
> >
>
>
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Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user panel
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--- End Message ---
