Yes Evan, you have it exactly right. The popularity of lock washers is
without merit.  I will give you a caveat though, I am talking about joints
where there is all metal in the sandwich.   More detail below on
non-metallic stuff.

I believe you are wrong about the Toyotas at leas with all metal joints.
 Tie rod ends are not castellated on my car, they are big and torqued hard
with a tapered fit that really does the work.  There is no thread locker
that I have seen, and no nylocks.  If you show me I will believe, but I do
my own wrenching and have not seen any.  I have seen some deformed nuts
where they whack the end of the nut into an ellipse for use on exhaust
stuff that has extreme thermal cycling).  There are things like battery
hold downs - not an all metal joint, but I am pretty sure even these are
not nylock or deformed.

You are right to press me on this - Why on earth are there all these lock
washers used?  Why do so many people think they are useful?  Heck, Nordlock
may be quite sincere in thinking their fancy washers do something. Part of
this is tradition that is self sustaining - they are everywhere so the must
be good, right? Also, lock washers do get applied places where,
unfortunately they help, because of design flaws (usually material
selection).  In every case they are a bandaid for a joint that could have
been better, but maybe cost too much better, or there wasn't time to do
better, and besides, everyone uses them, right?

That  does not change the fact that a split lock washer, or a Nordlock is a
waste of money in a joint that is tight enough not to come loose.  And you
can design or modify joints so they don't come loose.

Here is why I think I know what I am talking about:
I worked as a mechanical engineer for Caterpillar. You will not find them
on a Caterpillar track type tractor, front end loader, or backhoe loader
(these three products I have done design work on).  I have a copy of the
bolted joint analysis and design specs for Caterpillar in the 1990's - no
lock washers are to be used - ever - for metallic joints.  This spec is the
bible for getting bolted joints to survive in the absolute worst
conditions. I doubt if Cat has a part number for a split lock washer,
though you never know what a green engineer might do.  I have done
mechanical work primarily on Toyotas in modern time (VW, Audi, Porche,
Subaru, & Honda in the 1980's) and there are no lock washers used on them.

Part of what confounds common understanding about lock washers is that they
will paper over joints coming loose that are prone to become loose:
There are joints where, due to unfortunate design, materials that creep are
necessary, or in other words they compress with time and thermal cycling
(plastics and other composites).  In these cases you really should use very
light clamping forces, align the parts with pins and other features, and do
not apply the assembly in the presence of any thermal cycling or vibration
of any kind.  Think electronic components for use indoors only.

There are a variety of washers for special purposes where clamping force in
not a primary concern. Star washers for instance can pierce oxides and
plating to improve low voltage, low current connections.  Metallic inserts
are used in plastic part design to remove a threaded interface in plastic -
because plastic will deform with constant force and thermal cycling.  If
you can make very deep thread engagement with plastic it can work with
special threads (think thin sharp threads like a drywall screw).  All sorts
of weird stuff is needed when the joint has materials that are plastic in
behavior, not stable and elastic as are metal joints.  Look in a Richco
catalog for all manner of plastic fasteners. Penn Engineering for metal
inserts.

Bottom line you will see lock washers in use, but they may not do anything
or they may be covering up a bad design fault.  Taking  what you see on a
plastic assembly and using it on a metal assembly is bad practice.  Happens
all the time, and now we are all used to it.  Reminds me of Phillips heads
which Henry Ford put into service specifically because they cam out and
strip the cross so as not to mess up sheet metal.  Or the QWERTY keyboard
designed to exercise out littler fingers, not to promote efficient fast
typing.  This s*** just happens

Returning to battery terminals on EV's:
I haven't seen all the various battery connection means.  Some may suck and
need something to keep them from loosening.  None of my batteries are like
that. If you have all flat metal in your battery terminal stack, and your
screws can be torqued well, then you don't need any lock washers.   But,
each battery type and EV needs to be taken as a separate case.

I redid my pack of 38120s.  These have a stamped metal cap on each end with
t tapped hole.  These were not torqued to even half what they should have
been, came loose with barely finger tightness.  I took them all apart, got
rid of the lock washers (they have a tool large ID so there is an area of
unnecessarily high stress between the screw heads and the flat washer).
 This is nit picky, but I have no reason to cut corners.  Then I put them
all back together and tightened them using an inch pound torque wrench
because is has small enough resolution to do a good job on the M5 screws.
 I am annoyed that they are Phillips screws and might replace them with
socket head cap screws later.  I used some little SS SAE washers that are
not the best choice.

I have a pack of 40Ah Thundersky cells. these have aluminum pads with a
tapped holes for terminal contact.  I am going to get some screws that are
long enough to get good thread engagement all the way to the bottom of the
tapped holes.  These did not have lock washers installed, but properly
sized flat washers.  I didn't pay attention to if they were torqued right.
 It is hard to tell, and it was all coming apart anyway.  I will torque
them to the correct torque for aluminum threads.

Another pack I have is 19650 cells (like fat AAs with flat ends) which have
no screw fasteners at all.  These have strips of stainless laid across the
ends and resistance welded to the cell ends.  They are series strings to
get the voltage, of numerous parallel cells to get the capacity.  I like
this for cheapness.  They may be assembling the packs with welding robots -
or they could anyway.  The bad part is if a cell goes south, it is hard to
replace.

As has been noted, the current does not travel the bolt and threads, but
goes through the flats where the terminal, strap or bus bar contacts the
battery terminal - I think a thread locker is probably fine to use if one
is are hesitant to torque fully.  But it is unnecessary if you have full
thread engagement (>1.5 times the bolt diameter) and torque properly.  Just
torque it.  A lock washer is simply not an effective means for anything in
a metal joint.


On Fri, Jan 10, 2014 at 5:05 AM, Evan Tuer <[email protected]> wrote:

> On Thu, Jan 9, 2014 at 9:27 PM, Michael Ross <[email protected]
> >wrote:
>
> >
> > Please explain what I got wrong here.
> >
> >
> The real world?  According to you, there is no reason for ANY sort of
> locking washer or nut to exist.




> That's clearly not the case.  Even in your
> Toyota, there will be plenty of fasteners Loctite'd in, probably a few
> Nylocks, perhaps even a few castlated bolts lurking somewhere.
>
> The battery terminals we work with are not ideal either, though I maintain
> the environment is not bad enough to warrant Nord-Locks or anything that
> extreme.  YMMV.
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-- 
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With your one wild and precious life?
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