Jack's concern was that the meter might make a connection between frame ground and the high voltage pack so he put the DC-DC in for isolation. I did have that problem on the analog volt meter I used to have in the truck so I put one in as well. However I don't have any evidence to suggest it's really necessary for this meter. I haven't found any continuity between the 12v power and high voltage connections on the meter. But the DC-DC was only a couple bucks so it was cheap insurance.
--Rick On 05/14/2014 08:17 PM, Michael K Johnson wrote: > Thank you! That's perfect! All you are really doing is programming > mV/A with a max of 75mV, so that makes sense. > > The EVTV diagram says "Isolated 12v to 12v DC-DC Converter". I didn't > see anywhere else that the negative power terminal on the JLD404AH > cannot be tied to the COM terminal. And all my 12V regulated supplies > are common negative. I don't have a separate 12V house battery in the > lawn tractor. Are you using an isolated dc-dc converter in your truck? > > > On Wed, May 14, 2014 at 9:10 AM, Rick Beebe via EV <[email protected]> wrote: >> I have one in my truck and it works great. It wants a 75mV shunt but I >> have a 50mV/500A. You just lie the meter--I.e. I said it was connected >> to a 75mV/750A shunt. >> >> The manual is available here: >> http://www.lightobject.info/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1074 >> >> Jack Rickard of EVTV has written a plain english one here: >> http://media3.evtv.me/JLD404AH.pdf. >> >> --Rick _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
