If you have the main motor that has a pilot shaft, then it is very easy to have 
a vacuum source that never drops below 15 in.hg.  Use the same vacuum system 
that is use on diesel engines.  I use a vacuum pump that was install on my EV 
in 1977 and is still running today belt driven with a cog belt off the pilot 
shaft of the motor.  

The vacuum pump has a built in check valve that closes at 15 in.hg and releases 
at 22 in.hg.  The only time I hear the clicking when I first start up the EV in 
the beginning of the day, because the vacuum may have drop a bit below 15 
in.hg.  When it reaches 15 in.hg. the clicking noise which is cause by the 
check valves in a vacuum pump, go's away.  

I use a vacuum canister that I got from Jegs.com which has a input and output 
threaded connections.  A check value like the one that is use on your vacuum 
booster is also use on the vacuum canister.  I also install one between the 
vacuum pump and canister because lets say the vacuum has just drop to 15 in.hg. 
which causes the vacuum pump check valve to open which could bleed off the 
vacuum in the canister. 

Also if you have any other vacuum assist units that operated heater and air 
conditional controls,  be sure to install a vacuum check valve in the tap of 
line of a vacuum source which is normally place between the canister and brake 
booster. 

Later when my vacuum brake booster worn out, which would have cost about 
$250.00 from a auto parts store, the vender said use this unit placing it on 
the counter which is a hydro brake booster which also cost $250.00.  You can 
get $50.00 for a old core if you have one.  

So I went to a junk yard with some tools, to take off a hydro brake booster 
with it mounting brackets and hoses and fittings for $50.00.  The hydro boost 
hoses fittings are different and would have cost about $100.00 for new 
fittings. 

Now you need a hydraulic pump to provide at lease 800 to 1000 psi.  It so 
happens my power steering pump which is a electric one which I got from EV 
Source.com. 

This power steering pump also runs both the power steering and the hydro boost 
unit.  The hydro boost unit is design to interface with the power steering 
unit.  

You first connect the high pressure line from the power steering pump to the 
High Pressure Inlet of the hydro boost.  Connect the high pressure line from 
the High pressure Outlet of the hydro boost to the steering rack.  Out of the 
steering rack which is call the Low Pressure Outlet, goes back to the power 
steering pump. 

Use a small power steering remote fill tank that you place higher then the 
power steering inlet and outlet fittings in the hydro brake booster.  This 
remote fill tank is connected with a tee fitting in the low pressure line that 
goes between the steering rack and power steering pump.  

NOTE:  ONLY USE POWER STEERING FLUID IN THE  POWER STEERING REMOTE FILL 
           FILL TANK,  NOT BRAKE FLUID!!

The hydro booster comes with a master cylinder, that is design to fit it.  Only 
use brake fluid in the master cylinder. 

The hydro booster comes with the same type of mounting to the firewall that the 
vacuum booster did.  It was a flat mounting plate which has four bolt holes to 
mount to the existing studs that is on the fire wall.  I had to drill two of 
the holes in the mounting plate to fit these studs. 

The brake push rod that comes with the hydro booster, did not quite fit the 
bolt holes in the brake swing arm which is OK.  I do not like fix type mounting 
units but rather have adjustable types.  I cut off the fix eye off the brake 
push rod, threaded it with a bolt die and screw on a adjustable bearing rod end 
that you can get from a speed accessory shop or from Jegs.com.  Use a grade 
eight bolt, two washers and a all steel lock nut to fasten it to the brake 
swing arm. 

You can see this type of installation which this old geezer had a hell of a 
time installing it.  He use all new parts and it really cost him.  I learn from 
his mistakes. 

Just type in your search engine: Hydro Brake Booster Conversions and you will 
come to several web sites on this installation. 

Roland 


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Buddy Mills via EV<mailto:[email protected]> 
  To: 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'<mailto:[email protected]> 
  Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2014 1:32 AM
  Subject: [EVDL] Vacuum Switch


  I am looking for a vacuum switch that has a wider or adjustable range
  between on and off.  I am about to put two switches on and use a relay to
  accomplish but was wondering if there was a simpler way to keep the vacuum
  pump from cycling so often.

   

  Thanks, 

   

  Buddy Mills

   <mailto:[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> 
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>

   

  Look mom, no gas.  <http://www.evalbum.com/2887<http://www.evalbum.com/2887>> 
http://www.evalbum.com/2887<http://www.evalbum.com/2887>

   

  Disclaimer:  No animals were harmed or killed in the process of writing this
  email.  Any stories to the contrary are, for the most part, either fictional
  or greatly exaggerated. 

   

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