> On Jun 6, 2015, at 6:05 AM, tomw via EV <[email protected]> wrote: > > /"...When I use it to what I interpret as completely dead (about 3 miles of > residential/commercial streets after the very low battery warning where it > shuts off the meter), charging to what it indicates as 100% (12 bars on the > meter) takes a little less than 5 hours. Assuming my charger is 3.3KW this > is about 16.5KWH..."/ > That would be total energy from the outlet. If the charger is say 94% > efficient, then about 15.5kWh into the battery pack. Further down you > indicated you charge to 80%, so I guess the 15.5 is for 80% charge? That > would indicate about 19.4kWh for full charge. I'm interested in this > because someone I know bought a 2013 Leaf and said on that model year and > later "you get a full 24kWh available", so I was wondering what the > available amount was on the earlier models. Maybe 20kWh? If so, did Nissan > change the pack size or just permissible DoD?
I was under the impression that it was 3.3KW into the battery pack. I don’t have equipment that allows me to measure what I am drawing from the outlet. But the display in the car says I get 3.9miles/KWH. This hasn’t changed for about three and a half years. It did go up to 4.0 a few weeks after I got the car, but shortly after I started using the heater it went down to 3.9 and has stayed there ever since. I’m assuming this number is from the pack. It takes just under five hours to charge from my definition of completely dead (a few miles of residential/commercial streets after the very low battery warning when it shuts off the state of charge gauge) to what the car indicates as 100% full. This means the usable capacity of the pack is 16.5KWH (5H * 3.3KW). I can get just over 60 miles of my normal driving from 100% full to my definition of dead. This seems to be consistent with 3.9KWH/mile and a 16.5KWH usable capacity. I can go considerably further if I keep the speed below about 50mph, and even more if I keep the speed below 35mph. Turning off the climate control saves even a bit more especially in the winter. Not that the actual units really matter. I use bars of charge on the state of charge gauge as my units. While this gauge isn’t linear, it seems to be consistent. I know not to be farther from home than the distance I can travel on the remaining bars on the gauge. The behavior of the state of charge gauge doesn’t seem to have changed in the 46 months I’ve had the car, even though I lost a capacity bar at about 33,000 miles (8,000 miles ago). I assume it will remain like this until the actual capacity drops low enough that the state of charge indicator will no longer reach 12 bars. For most of my driving I don’t even bother looking at the state of charge gauge except to see that the battery did recharge after charging. Ed _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
