Thank you, that turned out to be very close to the problem. My cold /
hot flap had gotten stuck in the wrong position, so a lot of air was
flowing but not through the resistive core. Luckily it was an easy fix that did
not require me to remove the dash.

Jay


On February 17, 2016 8:15:36 AM EST, via EV <[email protected]> wrote:

    You might need a new heater core. Your description, though, could just as 
well be ducting problem. If the controlling cable fell off, for example, the 
air would not be ducted across the heater core anymore and you’d see the 
current drop and lack of heat.

    Bruce


        I have an S-10 conversion with a resistive heater core (I assume
        from
        EVA, who supplied the rest of the kit). Unfortunately, I believe
        the
        heater core may be failing. It still draws 10+ amps when I first
        turn it
        on, but the draw rapidly drops to under an amp within 15
        seconds, where
        it used to draw 10+ amps all day. It still has plenty of air
        flow from
        the fan, but the air does not heat up at all (it used to get
        lukewarm).

        I know that if you don't have air flow over the resistive heater
        element
        it will self regulate (resistance will go up), but the fan is
        blowing
        plenty of air. I figure either the element itself is compromised
        somehow, or perhaps it is no longer in the airflow path (I don't
        know
        why this would be, possibly it fell down or something...)

        Reading a standard S10 service manual (I have a 95 model) I will
        need to
        remove the entire dash to access the (original) heater core. I was
        wondering if anybody who had installed the EVA resistive heater kit
        could tell me anything about how the resistive core is mounted,
        and if
        perhaps it would be possible to access it by pulling the blower
        motor
        off the firewall instead of removing the dash? (I'm hoping here....)

        Tips/trick for debugging the problem short of actually removing the
        entire dash would also be appreciated.

        I have an email out to EVA asking how much it would cost to buy a
        replacement part, as if I remove the dash I want to be ready to
        replace
        it right away (and I'd take the opportunity to install a new amp
        hour
        gauge at the same time...)

        Jay


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