> Luckily, this stuff is far easier to debug than the wiring in a modern car. :-) > For one thing, you can test the controller on the bench, > with a light bulb in place of the motor, a 5k potentiometer > for the throttle pot, and a simple DC power source for input power.
Duh, great idea! I have been very cautious (knowing this thing was working before and could drive a 3000 lb car forward briskly).... And feared in my troubleshooting that all of a sudden I might wiggle a bad connection and the car lurch to life over me and into the garage door. Bingo! Ill disconnect the motor and hook up a few thousand watts of lights instead! Then I can hack away until the lights come on! Come to think of it, my nice 5000 watt 120v theatre light might make a great demo too.. I think Ill wire in a permanent A/B switch for it and the motor. Too bad the cheap $6 AC disconnects from Home Depot are only rated at 60 amps. Hummh... I wonder if that rating is related to the actual "disconnect" operation, or the steady-state current handling. AH, actually they are dual blade, so I could wire the blades in parallel and then it should handle 120 amps steady state and I think this car cruises at 60 amps thought peaks are over 120. At least I can try it since the car hasn't gone anywhere in 3 years anyway but around the block a few times... Thanks Bob _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/ Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
