Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
For one thing, you can test the controller on the bench,
with a light bulb in place of the motor, a 5k potentiometer
for the throttle pot, and a simple DC power source for input power.
Bingo! Ill disconnect the motor and hook up a few thousand watts of
lights instead! Then I can hack away until the lights come on!
Ignoring the sarcasm... If you look in the Curtis controller manual,
you'll see the bench test setup. It uses *one* normal 120v light bulb as
its pretend motor load (though it could drive hundreds, if you like).
The DC power source can be anything that can supply a voltage within the
controller's normal input range at one amp or so. A string of old
batteries that are otherwise too poor to use for anything, or a variac
and a bridge rectifier, or even a voltage divider made from two light
bulbs in series with the bridge rectifier powered by the tap between
them. You probably have a 1221 (square black brick) or 1231 (same, but
with rounded sides that "bulge" out). Typical models:
1221x-66xx are rated for 48-72v input
1221x-74xx " 72-120v
1231x-77xx " 72-120v
1231x-86xx " 96-144v
--
"IC chip performance doubles every 18 months." -- Moore's law
"The speed of software halves every 18 months." -- Gates' law
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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