Thank you Cor! This is exactly what I needed to learn more than I do now.
This amazing group of EV creators has made it possible for me to drive
electric since 1999, and you are one of the members whose posts I always
read.

On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 11:32 AM, Cor van de Water via EV <[email protected]
> wrote:

> Mike,
> there are two approaches if your BMS has no capability to tell you which
> cell is low,
> one is the scientific approach of using a dummy load and measuring
> time and voltage to minimum cutoff, this will give you numbers on the
> current capacity of your pack. Just in case I ever wanted to do this
> myself, I saved the heating element of a pool pump which is 240V 40A or
> so, so its resistance is about 6 Ohms and makes a nice dummy load for a
> host of tests.
>
> The other approach that is a lot less invasive and time consuming is to
> simply drive the vehicle until it throws the low cell alarm,
> park the car with the parking brake tightly set, hook up a voltmeter to
> a small group of cells and blip the trottle for a second.
> NOTE that when a DC motor can't turn, you must make sure it does not get
> loaded with high current for more than a few seconds or it will burn up
> the position that it is in!
> Since these are CALB cells (LiFePO4) all good cells will still sit at
> the default 3.2V while a low cell will fall through the  floor and dip
> below 2.5V so you can measure 10 groups of 4 cells and likely there will
> be 9 groups that stay pretty solid near 13V minus wire resistance drop
> and there will be one group that will drop closer to 12V minus wire
> drop.
>
> NOTE that a higher resistance wire connection *can* cause the BMS to see
> a low cell if it measures across cell + wire (which is common) so it
> might turn out to be 40 perfect cells and a corroded or loose terminal.
>
> Success!
>
> Cor van de Water
> Chief Scientist
> Proxim Wireless
>
> office +1 408 383 7626                    Skype: cor_van_de_water
> XoIP   +31 87 784 1130                    private: cvandewater.info
>
> http://www.proxim.com
>
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>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: EV [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Mike Beem via
> EV
> Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2016 11:03 AM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: [EVDL] Lithium Battery Testing
>
> I spent some time looking through the archive, but couldn't find what
> I'm
> looking for--> I think I have one weak cell in my 40 cell 100 Ah pack;
> I'm
> getting a low battery signal (mini BMS) under load when there is more
> than
> sufficient range left on the charge. These are CALB batteries which I
> installed in December 2012. I recently tried going through and
> individually
> charging each one to 3.5v (after charging the whole pack to shut-off
> point)
> with my variable power supply, and at 2 amps maximum, it took me almost
> 2
> weeks of not driving the EV (http://www.evalbum.com/4181) to get all the
> way through, so I used a timer, which of course, would defeat the whole
> process by not being able to WAIT for 3.5v on every one...
> When I first started driving it with the new pack in 2012, it did have
> the
> 40 mile range I aimed for when I put this together. I have only driven
> it
> to the limit of the pack once since then, and it was in a colder winter
> than we usually have, so I wasn't surprised to have much less range.
> I need an easy to put together load I can use with a voltmeter to test
> cells, and a range for what voltage drop on these CALB cells would be
> normal or weak. I got fairly good at this with lead acid, both flooded
> and
> AGM, but don't have the experience or science to know if, 1) this is a
> reasonable way to proceed, and, 2) what those voltage-drop decision
> points
> would be, and, 3) what components to use for the load?
> Thank you!
> Michael B
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