Thanks for the feedback guys, really great info. Hadn't thought about the torque smoothing qualities of a clutch, which is also a great reason to have one!
Does anyone know which bolts I can undo to take a look inside the motor? There are four big ones on the back that are currently going through a mounting plate so I'm assuming they've been removed and reattached at some point. Then there are also 4 small hex head bolts on the front that seem to be holding on a covering for the front bearing. But i'm reluctant to unscrew anything without knowing what they do in case something is released internally that I'm unaware of and I kill my motor... 07966 806 727 On 30 January 2017 at 03:10, Bill Dube via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote: > The springs in the clutch center, and the torque-limiting nature of > the clutch itself serve to limit peak torque in the transmission and > driveline. The transmission and the driveline components need the clutch > and its center springs to survive long-term. > > It is not the torque _from_ the motor that is the source of the torque > peaks, it is bumps in the road, like rail road tracks, that inject damaging > torque spikes _into_ the driveline and transmission. No clutch to slip a > little bit, or clutch center springs to absorb these spikes, and the > transmission life becomes very very short. > > Bill D. > > > On 1/29/2017 7:28 PM, Tom Keenan via EV wrote: > >> I also have an older DC powered conversion with a clutch. I've found that >> shifting with the clutch is much faster and much more forgiving. I've >> driven it 'clutchless' a couple of times as an exercise, but found it to be >> very slow to shift with the foot off the clutch. Matching motor speed with >> selected gear normally results in time wasted between gears waiting for the >> motor to wind down - traffic behind becomes very intolerant if you miss the >> split second between go and no-go. >> Tougher on hills because the vehicle may slow down to almost nothing >> before the motor winds down enough to shift clutchless. Then you are back >> to square one (first gear again). >> However, since AC motors have a much wider RPM operating range, frequent >> shifting isn't really necessary as with most DC motor conversions. >> One conversion I've seen with an AC motor was a clutchless Geo Metro >> (Solectria). The AC motor twisted off the transmission input shaft in that >> particular vehicle twice, requiring a transmission replacement both times. >> Might be a poorly matched transmission design, or it might be that the >> clutch provides a bit of overtorque protection. >> Based on what I've seen and operated for the last few years, I'd >> recommend retaining the clutch. If you have a clutch-type conversion of >> any type available to test drive in your area, try to drive it both ways to >> see what fits your driving style before you commit. >> >> Tom Keenan >> >> On Jan 29, 2017, at 4:59 PM, Jay Summet via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote: >>> >>> I have an S-10 conversion with the clutch left out, and you certainly >>> can shift it without the clutch. But the shifts take several seconds as you >>> wait for the motor to sync up in speed, and the time I spend coasting, >>> unless planned well in advance to be going down a hill, etc, can cause cars >>> to ride up on me. >>> >>> If I were do another conversion, I would probably leave the clutch in, >>> despite the efficiency hit, just so that you can shift quickly. That way >>> you could start in 1st and shift to 2nd quickly, instead of using extra >>> amps to start up (slowly) in 2nd. >>> >>> I have a DC motor, so I find myself shifting between 2nd and 3rd gear >>> around 40 MPH. Perhaps with an AC motor that has a larger RPM range you >>> could get 0-50 which would be fine for all city driving, or even 0-60 MPH >>> in one gear and shifting wouldn't be much of an issue. >>> >>> Jay >>> >>> On 01/29/2017 05:24 PM, Cruisin via EV wrote: >>>> It doesn't surprise me of the lack of support from HPEVS. maybe their >>>> door is >>>> locked >>>> Regarding the AC-31 which I have a lot of experience with, the motor >>>> already >>>> has a >>>> front bearing. The information you received from the seller of the >>>> motor is >>>> false. Do your >>>> conversion but leave out the flywheel and clutch assembly. If you want >>>> to >>>> shift, it can be done >>>> without a clutch as long as you are not using regeneration, else you >>>> will >>>> have to feather the >>>> accelerator during the shift. NO CLUTCH NEEDED. >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub >> http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org >> Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/ >> Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group >> /NEDRA) >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/ > Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group > /NEDRA) > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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