Send EV mailing list submissions to
ev@lists.sjsu.edu
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
You can reach the person managing the list at
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of EV digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Is is possible to build a cheaper nickel metal hydride or
nickel air battery from melted nickels? (Doug Weathers)
2. Re: Peukert effect (was: Battery prices) (Zeke Yewdall)
3. Regen efficiency. Hard numbers. ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
4. VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment (Michael Mohlere)
5. Re: Fwd: Battery prices (Jeff Shanab)
6. Re: Peukert effect (was: Battery prices) (Lee Hart)
7. Re: VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment (Eduardo Kaftanski)
8. Re: Peukert effect (was: Battery prices) (Will Beckett (becketts))
9. Re: Motor Disassembly Question ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
10. Re: VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
11. Re: VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
12. Re: Fwd: Battery prices (Chuck Homic)
13. Zivan NG-3 156 VDC and 115VAC for sale
([EMAIL PROTECTED])
14. Re: Peukert effect (was: Battery prices) (Zeke Yewdall)
15. Re: Trojan battery choice: Plans changed (Tim Humphrey)
16. Re: Kelly controller on E-Bay (Dan Frederiksen)
17. Re: Fwd: Battery prices ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
18. Re: Fwd: Battery prices (Ben)
19. Re: Fwd: Battery prices ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
20. Re: VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment (Roland Wiench)
21. Re: Charger (damon henry)
22. Re: Tax credits for EV's in the energy bill? (Andrew Kane)
23. Forklift motors for project vehicle (Lawrence Rhodes)
24. Re: VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment (George Swartz)
25. Taking Plunge: DeIcing ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
26. Re: Taking Plunge: DeIcing (Chuck Homic)
27. Re: Peukert effect (was: Battery prices) (Doug Weathers)
28. Re: Fwd: Battery prices (Gerald Wagner)
29. Re: Fwd: Battery prices (Tim Humphrey)
30. Re: Taking Plunge: DeIcing (Peter VanDerWal)
31. Re: Taking Plunge: DeIcing (Peter VanDerWal)
32. Re: Peukert effect (was: Battery prices) (Peter VanDerWal)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 06:21:36 -0700
From: Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Is is possible to build a cheaper nickel metal
hydride or nickel air battery from melted nickels?
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Electric Vehicle Discussion List
<ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
On Jan 7, 2008, at 1:20 AM, GWMobile wrote:
> Is is possible to build a cheaper nickel metal hydride or nickel air
> battery from melted nickels?
An interesting question, so I fired up Google and had a look.
"Nickels" (the US five-cent coins) are only 25% nickel. They're also
75% copper. (By weight, I presume.)
>
> Are nickel coins a cheaper source of nickel than the metal markets now?
<http://www.coinflation.com/> and
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel#Metal_Value> and
<http://www.usmint.gov/pressroom/index.cfm?
flash=yes&action=press_release&ID=724> all seem to agree that a nickel
contains more than 6 cents worth of metal.
However, the more recent Coinflation.com information says that a nickel
contains 2.5 cents worth of copper and only 3.5 cents worth of nickel.
If you only care about the nickel then you probably don't want to melt
down our coinage.
Besides, according to the US Mint link above, it's now a criminal
offense to melt down nickels.
I remember visiting Italy as a boy and not being able to find 50 lira
coins to use in vending machines, since they contained way more than 50
lira worth of stainless steel. When we asked about it, we heard
stories of people leaving the country with suitcases filled with coins.
--
Doug Weathers
Las Cruces, NM, USA
http://www.gdunge.com/
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 07:58:36 -0700
From: "Zeke Yewdall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Peukert effect (was: Battery prices)
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
As Doug said, the increasing voltage drop as the SOC decreases, is
probably due to the acid becoming weaker and reducing the
concentration of ions. This is due to the nature of a lead acid
battery where the electrylyte takes place in the reaction -- becoming
pure water at 0% SOC. I don't know how Lithium batteries work, but
Nickel - X batteries have a constant electrolyte composition
regardless of SOC, so it make sense that the voltage would be more
uniform -- till the availability of active surface material of the
plates starts limiting voltage at very low SOC.
Z
On Jan 7, 2008 12:08 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> That's the whole idea behind Firefly's batteries.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> It would be worth figuring out because if that characteristic of lead
> acid batteries could be altered to be more like lithium and nickel metal
> then it would make better batteries.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 16:03:33 +0200
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [EVDL] Regen efficiency. Hard numbers.
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=Windows-1255
>I remember when we were driving with Victors AC-CRX with Lions and caps.
>We got nice power and efficiency numbers on in-city driving. I never
>calculated exactly how good it was, but it was way over 50% what we got
>Ahs back in.
interesting, what was the cap capacity?
>If any of you have some hard numbers on efficiencies and how they were
>measured I would like to put them in spreadsheet. To understand it
>better. We can add then it to Wiki for EVeryone to read.
Kwh/km data for most of the austinev.org vehicles are on the wiki,
see http://wiki.saymoo.org/EvdlGems/EfficiencyTuning
If you come up with hard regen numbers pls do add them, eg in a table.
>In normal city traffic I've seen on the Citroen Berlingo EV (DC sep.ex.
>~28 kw, 17kWh Lions, single gear, 1250 kg) accelerating from stop to 60
>km/h quite steady press of pedal and then regenning back to full stop
>will take only 0,3 Ah with 156 V (avg. on the cycle, +/- 500 mV). The
>distance travelled on the spin was about 1000 meters.
>This calculates to about 47 wh/km => 75 Wh/mi. Somehow I feel it's a bit
>too incredible number. Just by driving the existing crappy TS pack I
>would get range of 360 km (in-city).
>-Jukka
you are getting 'too much' regen i beleive compared to normal driving where
you go on average much farther than 1000m between full stops. You have measured
regen efficiency, not kWh/km on a normal driving cycle. One related figure I
have seen is that 60% of the city energy use is to lost to braking.
Incidentally i sent an offlist msg to you recently, did u recv?
jeremy
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 09:13:51 -0600
From: "Michael Mohlere" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment
To: EVDL <EV@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
I just replaced the vacuum booster (leaking - electric vacuum pump was
cycling CONSTANTLY) and master cylinder on the pickup (1981 VW Caddy),
only problem is that I cannot, for the life of me, determine how to adjust
the brake pedal free play - as it is, I have to mash it pretty much to the
floor to get the truck to stop - the only adjustment I could see in the
whole setup was a bolt on the end of the rod on the vacuum booster that
pushes on the master cylinder - however, adjusting that requires separating
the master cyl from the booster, which cannot be done while "adjusting" the
brake pedal.
Anyone have any ideas??
Thx,
--
Michael Mohlere
My EV: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/296.html
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 07:18:02 -0800
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Fwd: Battery prices
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> But if you have a fuse or just a weak point in the tab between the
> cells that disconnects when amps get high enough? Doesn?t that resolve
> the problem?
>
> Osmo
That is my plan.
I am purposely gonna use 12 cells in parallel per sub-module with a
notch that looks like a fuse. By default the system will have 2 of these
12 cell submodules in parallel so even if I pull 1000 amps that is only
42 amps per cell. So if I design the fuse region for 100A @ 2sec it
should not provide to much resistance per cell and still blow under a
second in a short condition. I just need to figure a good way to protect
people/electronics and any flammables from this event.
Perhaps we need to invent the fuse tab. Enclosed, rated at a certain amp
and weldable to the cells. this may be as simple as bending it up and
riviting a section of bakelight on each side of it.
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 09:55:10 -0600
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Peukert effect (was: Battery prices)
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
GWMobile wrote:
> What is it about lead acid chemistry that raises resistance when load is
> applied?
The acid is one of the active materials that makes the battery work. As
it runs down, the acid is used up. In a dead lead-acid, the electrolyte
becomes almost pure water. Pure water is a lousy conductor, so the
resistance goes way up.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 14:02:32 -0200
From: Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Most likely you need to work on the brakes themselves. You may need to bleed
the brakes and/or adjust the reAr drums.
Eduardo Kaftanski
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-----Original Message-----
From: "Michael Mohlere" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EVDL" <EV@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: 1/7/08 13:13
Subject: [EVDL] VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment
I just replaced the vacuum booster (leaking - electric vacuum pump was
cycling CONSTANTLY) and master cylinder on the pickup (1981 VW Caddy),
only problem is that I cannot, for the life of me, determine how to adjust
the brake pedal free play - as it is, I have to mash it pretty much to the
floor to get the truck to stop - the only adjustment I could see in the
whole setup was a bolt on the end of the rod on the vacuum booster that
pushes on the master cylinder - however, adjusting that requires separating
the master cyl from the booster, which cannot be done while "adjusting" the
brake pedal.
Anyone have any ideas??
Thx,
--
Michael Mohlere
My EV: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/296.html
_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 08:25:56 -0800
From: "Will Beckett \(becketts\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Peukert effect (was: Battery prices)
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250"
Doesn't the acid settle to the bottom of the battery, rather than going
away? There were some proposals for stirring up electrolyte every few
thousand miles. The thought was that the higher concentration of acid on
the bottom of the battery also damages the bottom of the lead plates which
eventually would cause them to break off, collect on the bottom, then short
out the plates making the battery go bad.
-Will
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of Lee Hart
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 7:55 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Peukert effect (was: Battery prices)
GWMobile wrote:
> What is it about lead acid chemistry that raises resistance when load is
> applied?
The acid is one of the active materials that makes the battery work. As
it runs down, the acid is used up. In a dead lead-acid, the electrolyte
becomes almost pure water. Pure water is a lousy conductor, so the
resistance goes way up.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1211 - Release Date: 1/6/2008
11:57 AM
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1211 - Release Date: 1/6/2008
11:57 AM
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 08:30:11 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Motor Disassembly Question
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
Jim,
Thanks for your input. I guess we will all learn something here. Even
if I do muck it up lessons will be learned and passed on to the group.
Thanks again,
Pete
On Jan 7, 2008, at 5:18 AM, Jim Husted wrote:
>
> --- gottdi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>>
>> I now have my Aircraft Generator Motor apart and I
>> have just removed all the
>> holding bolts that keep the field windings in place.
>> I thought the assembly
>> would just drop out but it did not. All the set
>> screws are out and nothing
>> is holding the windings within the case. Any idea of
>> how to get these out in
>> one piece? I do not have photos. Even if I had
>> photos it would not really
>> show much.
>
> Hey Pete
>
> That is not a standard "formed coil" wound motor and
> doesn't have coils like what you'd find in a Warp/ADC
> motor. The housing bolts appear to hold what look
> like the smaller coils in an interpoled motor. They
> may come out but a lot of times they glue the coil
> onto them as there are no fins, per se, to hold the
> coil from slipping into the armature "area". I've
> never seen or worked on one of these motors so I have
> no on hands info to share. In general though on the
> stator wound motors I have seen, they wind the wire in
> place. Your motor has some type of pole piece and
> that's a little different than most motors I've seen.
>
> I suggest you bring it into a shop and have them take
> a look before a mishap takes place.
>
> Anyway just wanted to get something out here for you
> although I don't have any real input to share.
> Sorry can't help any further.
> Cya
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ______________
> Looking for last minute shopping deals?
> Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/
> newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 08:33:45 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [EVDL] VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
You should have access to that rod from inside the car at the brake
pedal. May need to remove part of the assembly to gain access but you
should have reasonable access to it. Easy access is required for
proper adjustment. Do you have your VW book? If not go get one. You
will be glad you did.
: )
On Jan 7, 2008, at 7:13 AM, Michael Mohlere wrote:
> I just replaced the vacuum booster (leaking - electric vacuum pump was
> cycling CONSTANTLY) and master cylinder on the pickup (1981 VW Caddy),
> only problem is that I cannot, for the life of me, determine how to
> adjust
> the brake pedal free play - as it is, I have to mash it pretty much
> to the
> floor to get the truck to stop - the only adjustment I could see in
> the
> whole setup was a bolt on the end of the rod on the vacuum booster
> that
> pushes on the master cylinder - however, adjusting that requires
> separating
> the master cyl from the booster, which cannot be done while
> "adjusting" the
> brake pedal.
>
> Anyone have any ideas??
>
> Thx,
>
> --
> Michael Mohlere
> My EV: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/296.html
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 08:35:14 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [EVDL] VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
I agree. Don't cut corners and if you don't know what you are doing
with the brakes either learn correctly or let the shop do the work.
Better safe than sorry.
: )
On Jan 7, 2008, at 8:02 AM, Eduardo Kaftanski wrote:
> Most likely you need to work on the brakes themselves. You may need
> to bleed the brakes and/or adjust the reAr drums.
>
>
> Eduardo Kaftanski
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Michael Mohlere" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "EVDL" <EV@lists.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: 1/7/08 13:13
> Subject: [EVDL] VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment
>
> I just replaced the vacuum booster (leaking - electric vacuum pump was
> cycling CONSTANTLY) and master cylinder on the pickup (1981 VW Caddy),
> only problem is that I cannot, for the life of me, determine how to
> adjust
> the brake pedal free play - as it is, I have to mash it pretty much
> to the
> floor to get the truck to stop - the only adjustment I could see in
> the
> whole setup was a bolt on the end of the rod on the vacuum booster
> that
> pushes on the master cylinder - however, adjusting that requires
> separating
> the master cyl from the booster, which cannot be done while
> "adjusting" the
> brake pedal.
>
> Anyone have any ideas??
>
> Thx,
>
> --
> Michael Mohlere
> My EV: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/296.html
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 11:49:02 -0500
From: Chuck Homic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Fwd: Battery prices
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Ian Hooper wrote:
> US$3600 for 7.2 kWh pack is 50 cents per watt hour, that is very good
> - 20% cheaper than ThunderSky!
>
$0.50/whr is where I start buying. My wet dream is 20KWh of lithium,
and I'd pay $10K in a heartbeat if it was packaged well and had a
feasible BMS solution.
If convenient 3.2V 50Ah packages are available, 93 of them would make a
300V pack (manageable by a Z1KHV) of almost 15KWh. Not too shabby.
------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 11:32:10 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [EVDL] Zivan NG-3 156 VDC and 115VAC for sale
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
If you're interested, see the ad at
http://www.austinev.org/evtradinpost/index.php?method=showdetails&list=advertisement&rollid=2053&fromfromlist=classifiedscategory&fromfrommethod=showhtmllist&fromfromid=28
Ben
------------------------------
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 09:44:03 -0700
From: "Zeke Yewdall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Peukert effect (was: Battery prices)
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
On Jan 7, 2008 9:25 AM, Will Beckett (becketts) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Doesn't the acid settle to the bottom of the battery, rather than going
> away?
This is a different issue. And as I understand it, it is more of an
issue with tall batteries (like L16's and Surrettes) than short ones
like the golf cart batteries used in EV's. Also, with EV's you have
to equalize so frequently because of charge imbalance that it seems
like it would be hard to get to the point where electrolyte
stratification was the main reason to equalize.
Z
------------------------------
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 10:00:19 -0700
From: Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Trojan battery choice: Plans changed
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 13:42:28 -0800, "Nawaz Qureshi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> It is a misconception that higher current (Amperes) draws shorten the
> battery life.
> Perhaps it is because some people confuse Ampere-Hours (a unit of
> capacity)
> with Amperes or Amps (a unit of current).
> If you use more Ampere-Hours per cycle (a deeper discharge) then you are
> working the battery more and will give fewer cycles vs. shallower
> discharge
> cycles. However, if you draw higher current (amperes) the depth of
> discharge
> is shallower because the DOD is an inverse function of the rate of
> discharge. Therefore, it should result in more cycles. For instance, if
> you
> consider car starting batteries, they deliver thousands of cycle during
> their life because the current draw is hundreds of Amperes for short
> periods
> of time (i.e. very shallow DOD). Obviously, the higher current draw does
> not
> reduce their life.
> On the other hand, 800 cycles in a golf car are considered very good
> because
> they are discharged more deeply per cycle.
> Bottom line: Higher current draws do not reduce deep cycle battery life,
> higher depth of discharge (Ah) does.
>
> Nawaz Qureshi
> US Battery
>
Thanks for responding Nawaz
I'll accept what you say, you are the expert here.
I have one question, If I have two identical battery packs and they are both
drawn to 80% DoD; but one is regularly drawn at 2C and the other at 1C will
they both deliver the same lifetime WattHours since they were taken to the same
DoD??
Thanks.
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
"If you don't "believe" you'll make a difference, than you probably never
will!" -- Jim Husted
------------------------------
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 16:50:02 +0100
From: Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Kelly controller on E-Bay
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
TrotFox Greyfoot wrote:
> One specific reason why you cannot use two controllers in series is
> that they will not be switching at the same time. This is where they
> would need to be designed for the application. It's a similar issue
> to the timing of multiple parallel MOSFETs for current increase. If
> the two controllers aren't turning their output stages "on" at the
> exact same moment the one that's not on will see full pack voltage.
>
I don't believe that's generally true. as I see it the freewheeling
diode in the simple buck design lets each one operate independently
(although they can't share the same battery pack) and when they operate
together they double the voltage. neither one would ever feel the double
voltage.
I could be wrong but let's face it, what are the odds of that : )
Dan
------------------------------
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 09:16:48 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Fwd: Battery prices
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes;
format=flowed
Just thinking out-loud here but I have not heard any definite word on
the life of these batteries. I only hear it should be it maybe it
might be and derivatives of the same. Never any word directly from
the manufacturer on the true life of these new world batteries.
Sounds damn good but 10K is a lot to pay unless the life of these is
so damn good it really would be worth the cost. I am listening. Just
not hearing what is needed. I'd jump in start a company that will
weld packs together for the EV world but if the batteries don't live
up to the Mega hype then it's all for nought. What's this I hear
about the Mega jump in lead prices? Maybe a forced push to help get
lithium batteries into the main stream and to keep the costs high. It
would only look low compared to the high prices of lead acid. No way
did the market receive some sort of disaster or any large jump in
demand to cause that kind of jump. Gotta be skeptical here.
: )
On Jan 7, 2008, at 8:49 AM, Chuck Homic wrote:
> I'd pay $10K in a heartbeat if it was packaged well and had a
> feasible BMS solution.
------------------------------
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 12:24:45 -0500
From: Ben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Fwd: Battery prices
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
I've heard (secondhand via evdl messages) that some of the new
chemistries are claiming 5-10 year lifespans. Unfortunately the
chemistry is too new for anyone to have actual experience with it - we
can only estimate based on the couple years (or less, in some cases)
that they have been around.
-Ben
On Jan 7, 2008 12:16 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Just thinking out-loud here but I have not heard any definite word on
> the life of these batteries. I only hear it should be it maybe it
> might be and derivatives of the same. Never any word directly from
> the manufacturer on the true life of these new world batteries.
> Sounds damn good but 10K is a lot to pay unless the life of these is
> so damn good it really would be worth the cost. I am listening. Just
> not hearing what is needed. I'd jump in start a company that will
> weld packs together for the EV world but if the batteries don't live
> up to the Mega hype then it's all for nought. What's this I hear
> about the Mega jump in lead prices? Maybe a forced push to help get
> lithium batteries into the main stream and to keep the costs high. It
> would only look low compared to the high prices of lead acid. No way
> did the market receive some sort of disaster or any large jump in
> demand to cause that kind of jump. Gotta be skeptical here.
>
> : )
>
>
> On Jan 7, 2008, at 8:49 AM, Chuck Homic wrote:
>
> > I'd pay $10K in a heartbeat if it was packaged well and had a
> > feasible BMS solution.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 09:37:58 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Fwd: Battery prices
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes;
format=flowed
Hard to fork over 10K for a claim. I still like being on the cutting
edged of things and I am willing to invest but it really needs to be
a sound investment for that kind of money. If stocks are available
from these companies then I might just plunk down some. Might just
prove a worthy investment. Invest in the future. Sure thing.
Pete
: )
On Jan 7, 2008, at 9:24 AM, Ben wrote:
> claiming 5-10 year lifespans
------------------------------
Message: 20
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 10:38:20 -0700
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hello Michael,
Go to a auto parts store and pick up a Brake Bleeding Kit. I use the
Mityvac Part No. 6820. It is a small hand pump that can apply a vacuum or
apply a pressure. Also pick up about two quarts of brake fluid that is
design for your vehicle.
It is normal when you remove the master cylinders and lines and replace it
and add brake fluid, you will get air in the lines between the brakes and
the master cylinder. The indication of air is that your brake peddle is
going to the floor with a new master cylinder.
In a old or existing master cylinder when you brake peddle travels too much,
is that the master cylinder piston is worn out and it allows the brake fluid
to by pass the piston.
You will note when using a brake bleeding kit, it is a hand pump that can
provide a vacuum. At each brake, there is a bleeder plug that looks like a
grease zirk that is behind the brake where the brake lines go in.
Take the hose from the brake bleeding kit and push it on the bleeder plug
and connect it to the hand pump. Attach the bottle to the pump which is use
for catching the drain brake fluid.
Remove the brake fluid fill cover on the master cylinder and make sure you
have brake fluid all the way up to the top.
Next, You can start pumping the old brake fluid out about one bottle fill at
a time. If you are working alone, than go back to the master cylinder and
keep adding brake fluid and then continue to pump.
In the bleeding kit clear line, you will see brake fluid and then you may
see air, keep adding fluid and pump out the brake fluid until there is no
indication of air in the lines.
Now now tighten up the brake bleed plug with the hose and some brake fluid
in the clear line, so you do not suck air back into the lines.
Then go to the next wheel and do it again. Some times you may have to pump
the brakes so as to work a equalization value if your vehicle has one. If
your brake peddle seems to be too soft when its power up, then you may have
to bleed the brakes a second time.
I normally have to do this, because by rear brakes lines are tie together
and the brake fluid will cross feed each other.
You can also use this brake bleeding hand pump in checking your vacuum
system. With other fittings supplied with this kit, you can plug right into
the brake booster and apply vacuum without running your vacuum pump. You
can check out your other vacuum lines for leaking or test out vacuum control
units.
Roland
> On Jan 7, 2008, at 7:13 AM, Michael Mohlere wrote:
>
> > I just replaced the vacuum booster (leaking - electric vacuum pump was
> > cycling CONSTANTLY) and master cylinder on the pickup (1981 VW Caddy),
> > only problem is that I cannot, for the life of me, determine how to
> > adjust
> > the brake pedal free play - as it is, I have to mash it pretty much
> > to the
> > floor to get the truck to stop - the only adjustment I could see in
> > the
> > whole setup was a bolt on the end of the rod on the vacuum booster
> > that
> > pushes on the master cylinder - however, adjusting that requires
> > separating
> > the master cyl from the booster, which cannot be done while
> > "adjusting" the
> > brake pedal.
> >
> > Anyone have any ideas??
> >
> > Thx,
> >
> > --
> > Michael Mohlere
> > My EV: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/296.html
------------------------------
Message: 21
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 17:46:11 +0000
From: damon henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Charger
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>,
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
You could do that, you just have to realize that the two chargers will probably
charge at different rates and manually adjust your charging to make sure the
whole pack is equally charged at the end. If it were me, I would buy two of
these chargers and use one on each half. You may also be able to put your two
chargers in series. This is what I did for a while on my 80 volt nicad pack.
I just took my 72 volt charger and added a standard 12 volt charger. I
connected the negative of one charger to the negative of the pack, connected
the positve to the negative of the other charger and connected the positive of
the second charger to the positive of the pack. This arraingment means the
entire pack is seeing the same current.
damon
> Hello;> I am in the process of building a 120 volt EV. I already have a 48
> volt > charger for my three wheel golf cart based vehicle.> Any reason why I
> couldn't buy the above 72 volt charger and use it along the > the 48 volt one
> I already have?> (48 + 72 = 120 volts). I could tap into the pack at the
> appropriate spot to > split the charging load. Could even have more than one
> tap point to rotate > the charging load...> Please reply to me directly as I
> have POSTPONED the EVDL for a couple weeks > of travel.> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) > > > Matt Parkhouse> Colorado Springs, CO> BMW
> m/c-Golf Cart trike - 48 volts, 30mph on the flat, 35 mile range> 1972 VW Van
> - Engine/gas tank OUT, work under way!
_________________________________________________________________
Watch ?Cause Effect,? a show about real people making a real difference.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_watchcause
------------------------------
Message: 22
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 09:41:30 -0800
From: "Andrew Kane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Tax credits for EV's in the energy bill?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=WINDOWS-1252
Sorry to take so long, but as I mentioned the bill is a little wordy ;)
Anyway, having skimmed over the whole thing I find no reference
to tax breaks for EV's and no reference for *direct* financial
incentives for owners / end users of EV's. There are appropriations
for grants to encourage manufacturers to produce EV's, with special
emphasis on small manufacturers (500 employees or fewer), and grants
to promote research into batteries, light chassis materials, and other
technologies.
As mentioned, it's a big piece of legislation with a lot of stuff
in it. Interestingly, this bill would make OPEC (and any other
fossil-fuel cartel) illegal, with specific exemption from the doctrine
of "sovereign immunity" to allow DoJ to prosecute. Weird.
On Dec 20, 2007 6:24 AM, Zeke Yewdall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Thanks Andrew
>
> Z
>
>
> On Dec 19, 2007 8:31 PM, Andrew Kane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > I downloaded the text of HR 6 and am currently skimming it to
> > see what it says. Thus far I don't see any specific credits. The early
> > part of the bill calls for study:
> >
> > "3 (b) STUDY.?The Secretary shall conduct a study on
> > 4 the feasibility of issuing credits under the program estab5
> > lished under section 111(d) to electric vehicles powered by
> > 6 electricity produced from renewable energy sources.
> > 7 (c) REPORT.?Not later than 18 months after the date
> > 8 of enactment of this Act, the Secretary shall submit to the
> > 9 Committee on Energy and Natural Resources of the Senate
> > 10 and the Committee on Energy and Commerce of the House
> > 11 of Representatives a report that describes the results of the
> > 12 study, including a description of?
> > 13 (1) existing programs and studies on the use of
> > 14 renewable electricity as a means of powering electric
> > 15 vehicles; and
> > 16 (2) alternatives for?
> > 17 (A) designing a pilot program to determine
> > 18 the feasibility of using renewable electricity to
> > 19 power electric vehicles as an adjunct to a renew20
> > able fuels mandate;
> > 21 (B) allowing the use, under the pilot pro22
> > gram designed under subparagraph (A), of elec23
> > tricity generated from nuclear energy as an ad24
> > ditional source of supply;
> > ?
> > 64
> > HR 6 PP
> > 1 (C) identifying the source of electricity used
> > 2 to power electric vehicles; and
> > 3 (D) equating specific quantities of elec4
> > tricity to quantities of renewable fuel under sec5
> > tion 111(d)."
> >
> > Later in the bill there are specific appropriations for various
> > purposes. I am continuing to study the bill but it is 464 pages long.
> > I will report whatever I find.
> >
> >
> > On Dec 19, 2007 4:32 PM, Zeke Yewdall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > Does anyone know the details of the tax credits for EV's that he's taking
> > > about?
> > >
> > > This is an excerpt from the email I got from my Senator today.....
> > >
> > > "Expanding Access to Hybrid and Electric Vehicles: Growing concern for
> > > our natural environment, coupled with rising oil prices, has led to
> > > increased demand among American consumers for clean, efficient and
> > > cost-effective vehicles. To help meet this surge in demand, I fought
> > > to include an amendment in the energy bill that will bolster
> > > production of hybrid and plug-in electric automobiles through an array
> > > of tax credits and other financial incentives for consumers and
> > > producers. We all benefit from the increased oil efficiency and
> > > reduced carbon emissions this innovative technology furthers and
> > > promotes."
> > >
> > > Z
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > For subscription options, see
> > > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > For subscription options, see
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 23
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 09:53:04 -0800
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Forklift motors for project vehicle
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I have two ND forklift motors with 18.5 to one gear ratios. The units have
massive bolt on tabs. If you had a frame with a front wheel you could use
these for rear mounting. The motors are 8" in diameter x 10" long. This
was from a 70's Toyota electric fork lift & I have been saving them for an
ev project. Bottom line I need the room. IF any EVer comes by for them
they are yours for free. They orginally ran at 24vdc but I'm sure they will
take at least 72v.without rewiring. Contact me any time. They are in San
Francisco, 94110. Lawrence Rhodes....
------------------------------
Message: 24
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 09:52:34 -0800
From: "George Swartz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] VW Rabbit Pickup brake adjustment
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
I have a friend who lost his auto repair business because he tried to help a
customer who was poor and wanted to fix his own brakes. My friend gave him
some advice and you know the rest. The guy botched the job, wrecked his
car, and sued my friend and won. If you don't know precisely what you are
doing on fixing your own brakes, take it to a good brake shop.
On Mon, 7 Jan 2008 10:38:20 -0700, Roland Wiench wrote
> Hello Michael,
>
> Go to a auto parts store and pick up a Brake Bleeding Kit. I use
> the Mityvac Part No. 6820. It is a small hand pump that can apply a
> vacuum or apply a pressure. Also pick up about two quarts of brake
> fluid that is design for your vehicle.
>
> It is normal when you remove the master cylinders and lines and
> replace it and add brake fluid, you will get air in the lines
> between the brakes and the master cylinder. The indication of air
> is that your brake peddle is going to the floor with a new master cylinder.
>
> In a old or existing master cylinder when you brake peddle travels
> too much, is that the master cylinder piston is worn out and it
> allows the brake fluid to by pass the piston.
>
> You will note when using a brake bleeding kit, it is a hand pump
> that can provide a vacuum. At each brake, there is a bleeder plug
> that looks like a grease zirk that is behind the brake where the
> brake lines go in.
>
> Take the hose from the brake bleeding kit and push it on the bleeder
> plug and connect it to the hand pump. Attach the bottle to the pump
> which is use for catching the drain brake fluid.
>
> Remove the brake fluid fill cover on the master cylinder and make
> sure you have brake fluid all the way up to the top.
>
> Next, You can start pumping the old brake fluid out about one bottle
> fill at a time. If you are working alone, than go back to the
> master cylinder and keep adding brake fluid and then continue to pump.
>
> In the bleeding kit clear line, you will see brake fluid and then
> you may see air, keep adding fluid and pump out the brake fluid
> until there is no indication of air in the lines.
>
> Now now tighten up the brake bleed plug with the hose and some brake
> fluid in the clear line, so you do not suck air back into the lines.
>
> Then go to the next wheel and do it again. Some times you may have
> to pump the brakes so as to work a equalization value if your
> vehicle has one. If your brake peddle seems to be too soft when its
> power up, then you may have to bleed the brakes a second time.
>
> I normally have to do this, because by rear brakes lines are tie
> together and the brake fluid will cross feed each other.
>
> You can also use this brake bleeding hand pump in checking your
> vacuum system. With other fittings supplied with this kit, you can
> plug right into the brake booster and apply vacuum without running
> your vacuum pump. You can check out your other vacuum lines for
> leaking or test out vacuum control units.
>
> Roland
>
> > On Jan 7, 2008, at 7:13 AM, Michael Mohlere wrote:
> >
> > > I just replaced the vacuum booster (leaking - electric vacuum pump was
> > > cycling CONSTANTLY) and master cylinder on the pickup (1981 VW Caddy),
> > > only problem is that I cannot, for the life of me, determine how to
> > > adjust
> > > the brake pedal free play - as it is, I have to mash it pretty much
> > > to the
> > > floor to get the truck to stop - the only adjustment I could see in
> > > the
> > > whole setup was a bolt on the end of the rod on the vacuum booster
> > > that
> > > pushes on the master cylinder - however, adjusting that requires
> > > separating
> > > the master cyl from the booster, which cannot be done while
> > > "adjusting" the
> > > brake pedal.
> > >
> > > Anyone have any ideas??
> > >
> > > Thx,
> > >
> > > --
> > > Michael Mohlere
> > > My EV: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/296.html
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 25
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 16:43:48 +0000 (GMT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [EVDL] Taking Plunge: DeIcing
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
My ICE Car, a camry, needs new bearings, so
I am planning to de-ice it and put in the Kostov that
I have sitting on a bench in my shed.
We're having A Local Warming event tomorrow,
so I am thinking of doing the hard part then.
Does anyone have practical suggestions before
I jump in with both feet?
Thanks
Seth
------------------------------
Message: 26
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 13:19:38 -0500
From: Chuck Homic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Taking Plunge: DeIcing
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Does anyone have practical suggestions before
> I jump in with both feet?
>
I don't have anything practical, but I heard this on Car Talk a few
years ago.
http://www.cartalk.com/content/read-on/2000/04.15.1.html
------------------------------
Message: 27
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 11:36:33 -0700
From: Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Peukert effect (was: Battery prices)
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
On Jan 7, 2008, at 9:25 AM, Will Beckett (becketts) wrote:
> Doesn't the acid settle to the bottom of the battery, rather than
> going
> away?
No, as Lee said, it gets "used up". Specifically, it combines with
the materials in the battery plates and turns into lead sulfate and
water. The acid no longer exists at all! (See my earlier post for a
much wordier explanation of the chemistry.)
It gets recreated, out of lead sulfate and water, when the battery is
recharged.
--
Doug Weathers
Las Cruces, NM, USA
<http://www.gdunge.com/>
------------------------------
Message: 28
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 14:07:00 -0500
From: "Gerald Wagner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Fwd: Battery prices
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
The export manager at Headway claims 1000 deep discharge cycles and five
years life. But who knows as yet. Give Victoria Chen an email and ask her
how they determined these claims.
http://headway-cn.en.alibaba.com/
Jerry Wagner
On Jan 7, 2008 12:37 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hard to fork over 10K for a claim. I still like being on the cutting
> edged of things and I am willing to invest but it really needs to be
> a sound investment for that kind of money. If stocks are available
> from these companies then I might just plunk down some. Might just
> prove a worthy investment. Invest in the future. Sure thing.
>
> Pete
>
> : )
>
>
>
> On Jan 7, 2008, at 9:24 AM, Ben wrote:
>
> > claiming 5-10 year lifespans
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 29
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 12:29:47 -0700
From: Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Fwd: Battery prices
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
On Mon, 7 Jan 2008 14:07:00 -0500, "Gerald Wagner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The export manager at Headway claims 1000 deep discharge cycles and five
> years life. But who knows as yet. Give Victoria Chen an email and ask
> her
> how they determined these claims.
>
> http://headway-cn.en.alibaba.com/
>
> Jerry Wagner
>
> On Jan 7, 2008 12:37 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> Hard to fork over 10K for a claim. I still like being on the cutting
>> edged of things and I am willing to invest but it really needs to be
>> a sound investment for that kind of money. If stocks are available
>> from these companies then I might just plunk down some. Might just
>> prove a worthy investment. Invest in the future. Sure thing.
>>
>> Pete
>>
>> : )
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jan 7, 2008, at 9:24 AM, Ben wrote:
>>
>> > claiming
Has anybody enquired yet as to which chemistry these are? I doubt they are
LiFePo4.
--
Stay Charged!
Hump
"If you don't "believe" you'll make a difference, than you probably never
will!" -- Jim Husted
------------------------------
Message: 30
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 13:51:50 -0700 (MST)
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Taking Plunge: DeIcing
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Electric Vehicle Discussion List"
<ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
Drain all the fluids first (makes things less messy)
If pratical, keep all of the parts you take out until you are finished
with the conversion. You never can tell when a bracket, etc. might come
in useful.
> My ICE Car, a camry, needs new bearings, so
> I am planning to de-ice it and put in the Kostov that
> I have sitting on a bench in my shed.
>
> We're having A Local Warming event tomorrow,
> so I am thinking of doing the hard part then.
>
> Does anyone have practical suggestions before
> I jump in with both feet?
>
> Thanks
> Seth
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
------------------------------
Message: 31
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 13:54:22 -0700 (MST)
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Taking Plunge: DeIcing
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
LOL, I like it (not that I'd ever try it)
OSHA would have kittens!
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>> Does anyone have practical suggestions before
>> I jump in with both feet?
>>
> I don't have anything practical, but I heard this on Car Talk a few
> years ago.
>
> http://www.cartalk.com/content/read-on/2000/04.15.1.html
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
------------------------------
Message: 32
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 13:57:26 -0700 (MST)
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Peukert effect (was: Battery prices)
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
The gassing during charging does a pretty good job of stirring up the
acid, as does road vibration and the occasional bump in the road.
> On Jan 7, 2008 9:25 AM, Will Beckett (becketts) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Doesn't the acid settle to the bottom of the battery, rather than going
>> away?
>
> This is a different issue. And as I understand it, it is more of an
> issue with tall batteries (like L16's and Surrettes) than short ones
> like the golf cart batteries used in EV's. Also, with EV's you have
> to equalize so frequently because of charge imbalance that it seems
> like it would be hard to get to the point where electrolyte
> stratification was the main reason to equalize.
>
> Z
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
------------------------------
_______________________________________________
EV@lists.sjsu.edu
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
End of EV Digest, Vol 6, Issue 22
*********************************
