Send EV mailing list submissions to
ev@lists.sjsu.edu
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
You can reach the person managing the list at
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of EV digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Re: 40% Efficiency?..lets do some Math! (Roger Stockton)
2. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? (Andre' Blanchard)
3. 2 motors, one controller? (Josh Creel)
4. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? (Roger Stockton)
5. Re: 2 motors, one controller? (Morgan LaMoore)
6. Re: 2 motors, one controller? (TrotFox Greyfoot)
7. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? (Andre' Blanchard)
8. Heading into Des Moines (big city) - where to charge?
([EMAIL PROTECTED])
9. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? (Roger Stockton)
10. Re: Heading into Des Moines (big city) - where to charge?
(Roland Wiench)
11. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
12. Re: Heading into Des Moines (big city) - where to charge?
(Glenn Saunders)
13. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? (Adrian DeLeon)
14. apologies (Frank John)
15. Re: Heading into Des Moines (big city) - where to charge?
([EMAIL PROTECTED])
16. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? (Paul)
17. Re: Heading into Des Moines (big city) - where to charge?
(Roland Wiench)
18. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? (David Nelson)
19. Re: battery tab welding (minhd)
20. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? (Roland Wiench)
21. Re: GAUGES FOR MY EV? (Lee Hart)
22. Re: Accelerator problem (Deanne Mott)
23. Delta-Q Charger (Bradley Lindberg)
24. Re: apologies (Chuck Homic)
25. Re: Heading into Des Moines (big city) - where to charge?
(Lee Hart)
26. Max motor voltage? (Jim Husted) (Morgan LaMoore)
27. Re: Interesting EV I just found (Rod Hower)
28. Re: battery tab welding (paul holmes)
29. Re: Ni-Cad Batteries (captain-pete)
30. Re: Ni-Cad Batteries (captain-pete)
31. Re: Interesting EV I just found ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
32. Re: Spark-EV's Zotye (Kaido Kert)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 12:03:29 -0800
From: Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 40% Efficiency?..lets do some Math!
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Jeff Major wrote:
> I have been thinking about how to do some math on it. Seems
> like there is no dyno data available.
I don't know how accurate it is, but this 2 1/16" digital speedo from Autometer
includes the ability to measure 0-60, 1/4mi ET and MPH, 60-0 distance,
calculate wheel HP, and display max lateral and horizontal G-force, all for
$189: <http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/AUM4380.htm>.
Still not a dyno, but might be a relatively inexpensive way for EVers to get a
bit more quantitative backup of their EV's performance.
Cheers,
Roger.
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2008 14:27:47 -0600
From: "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
At 01:57 PM 2/5/2008, you wrote:
>Lee Hart wrote:
>
> > That's possible. :-) Our standards rise as we learn more.
>
>Yes, it seems to be a similar tuism to how our expenditures rise as our
>income does, and how the software will always expand to fill any unused
>memory, etc. ;^>
>
> > You can get by without an ammeter as you say, only knowing
> > when the pack reaches dead at 1.75v/cell. But it will be
> > difficult to judge how much farther you can go.
>
>I'm not sure I understand how an ammeter would help in this regard, unless
>integrated into an Ah counter like the E-meter. If the pack reaches dead
>under my present driving conditions, all I can do is change my driving
>to let the voltage rise back over 1.75V/cell (slow down, downshift,
>etc.); the ammeter may tell me by how much I've had to reduce my current
>draw to achieve this increse in voltage, but how can I translate this into
>a prediction of how much capacity the battery has at this draw before
>hitting 1.75V/cell again? (short of pulling over and working through
>Peukert's equation with a calculator ;^)
The ampmeter will tell you that the voltage drop is because you have a cell
or three going soft someplace in the pack because it is dropping more then
it used to at some given current. In which case you can find the bad
battery and replace it before it does more damage to the rest of the pack.
__________
Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 16:36:14 -0500
From: "Josh Creel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] 2 motors, one controller?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I got a couple of 24vdc PM motors, and was wondering if they could be run from
one controller? Thinking of putting them on my tricycle.
Josh and Jenifer
www.jcsevparts.com
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 14:25:18 -0800
From: Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Andre' Blanchard wrote:
> The ampmeter will tell you that the voltage drop is because
> you have a cell or three going soft someplace in the pack
> because it is dropping more then it used to at some given
> current. In which case you can find the bad battery and
> replace it before it does more damage to the rest of the pack.
This is true, but knowing the exact current isn't essential to diagnosing such
a problem, that's all I'm saying. The ammeter is definitely beneficial, but if
I had to choose just one gauge for my EV a voltmeter wins hands down.
For me to know that I've got some cells going soft, I have to have a voltmeter;
an ammeter alone isn't telling me anything. If I've got a voltmeter, then I
can see if the voltage is dropping more than it used to in such and such a
gear, at such and such speed, at such and such point in my regular commute; I
don't need to know exactly how many amps I'm pulling under those conditions to
know that something has changed. Ultimately, it's the voltmeter I'm relying
on, not the ammeter.
Cheers,
Roger.
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 17:08:09 -0600
From: "Morgan LaMoore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 2 motors, one controller?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Yeah, multiple DC motors with One controller works fine. Just put the
two motors in parallel and use a controller with a high enough current
limit.
-Morgan LaMoore
On 2/5/08, Josh Creel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I got a couple of 24vdc PM motors, and was wondering if they could be run
> from one controller? Thinking of putting them on my tricycle.
>
> Josh and Jenifer
>
> www.jcsevparts.com
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 18:17:36 -0500
From: "TrotFox Greyfoot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] 2 motors, one controller?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Or put them in series and use more voltage.
Or switch them from series to parallel when the voltage limit of your
supply is reached for better use of your recourses. See White Zombies
utillisation for an excellant example of this approach.
Trot, the gray, fox...
On Feb 5, 2008 6:08 PM, Morgan LaMoore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yeah, multiple DC motors with One controller works fine. Just put the
> two motors in parallel and use a controller with a high enough current
> limit.
>
> -Morgan LaMoore
--
| /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember,
| ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a
| >\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2008 17:21:58 -0600
From: "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
At 04:25 PM 2/5/2008, you wrote:
>This is true, but knowing the exact current isn't essential to diagnosing
>such a problem, that's all I'm saying. The ammeter is definitely
>beneficial, but if I had to choose just one gauge for my EV a voltmeter
>wins hands down.
>
>For me to know that I've got some cells going soft, I have to have a
>voltmeter; an ammeter alone isn't telling me anything. If I've got a
>voltmeter, then I can see if the voltage is dropping more than it used to
>in such and such a gear, at such and such speed, at such and such point in
>my regular commute; I don't need to know exactly how many amps I'm pulling
>under those conditions to know that something has changed. Ultimately,
>it's the voltmeter I'm relying on, not the ammeter.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Roger.
Yes if you are limited to just one meter a volt meter would be it because
you can get a fair estimate of the amps by knowing what gear you are in,
how far you have the peddle pushed, and how much push you are feeling.
If all you have is an amp meter and when you push the peddle a given amount
you should get a certain reading based on gear, speed, etc., if it is low
you do not need to know the voltage to know that something is wrong.
You can get the same, things are good or bad info from a volt or an amp
meter, having both just gives you more precise info to work with.
Ultimately you do not need anything. Push the peddle and if nothing
happens, then something is wrong. Keep pushing the peddle and unless it is
completely dead your nose will lead you to the problem. :)
__________
Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2008 16:25:16 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [EVDL] Heading into Des Moines (big city) - where to charge?
To: EV List Submissions <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: TEXT/plain; CHARSET=US-ASCII
My 88 Mazda Solectria Conversion has been cruising now for just over a
month 580 miles on the system and going strong. I live ~ 30 miles from
Des Moines, IA, and plan to drive into the city this weekend. I
probably have the range to get there and back, but I know that woudl
slow me down towards the end, and stress the batteries. I'll be
parking the car for the day and seeing sightseeing with some friends
(who don't live there). I'll be parking the car in one sot for ~ 5
hours - enough to get a good boost (Zivan NG3, 18x 8VGCHC)
My question:
What types of places have you had good luck with plugging in your car?
I've never plugged in anywhere but home... I'm just a little scared.
Andy
Ames, IA
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 15:35:48 -0800
From: Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Josh Creel wrote:
> Don't have a controller yet, I'm thinking of taking a chance
> on the new Kelly, but may go with the Curtis. Not sure yet,
> still trying to make up my mind. Like to have anyone's
> insight on this as well, although I've read a lot of
> opinions on this list already. :-)
Did you mention what pack voltage you are planning on?
If 72V or below, the AllTrax is a proven made-in-the-USA performer with a fine
pedigree (Alltrax used to make the respected DCP line of on-road controllers).
Over 144V the only choice is the Zilla Z1k or Z2K.
Between 72 and 144V, you have a choice of Curtis, Kelly, or Zilla. You can't
go wrong with the Zilla, though it is a little pricier than the others,
especially if you're planning to stay in the 72-84 or 96V range.
The Kelly's don't yet have enough of a track record for me to try one or feel
comfortable recommending one, unfortunately; have to wait until reports start
coming in from those brave early adopters! ;^>
So far all I've seen is the one report from the fellow with the 72V Eagle Talon
NEV, and his report of underwhelming power might indicate that the Kelly isn't
able to deliver all the current it is claimed to (or perhaps isn't able to
sustain it for very long).
I'd lean toward a Curtis if I was planning to stay below 120V (i.e. 1221
territory) and an AllTrax for 72V or less. Once you're into Curtis 1231
territory, it is difficult not to use a Zilla Z1k instead for what little
premium is involved.
The Curtis seems to be a decent no-frills workhorse that will hold up OK if you
take a few basic steps to keep it dry; its biggest fault is the low-speed whine
of the C models. The Kelly might be just as good, but at this point I don't
think there are enough of them on the road to have an idea of how close to spec
they perform, how reliable they are, or how painful it is to get warranty
honoured when they do fail.
Cheers,
Roger.
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 17:40:02 -0700
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Heading into Des Moines (big city) - where to
charge?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hello Andy,
Very simply, just drive up to a gas station, and ask them how much will it
cost to fill up my vehicle. They will say, depends how many gallons you
take. You say, I do not use gallons. How about if I pay you double the
amount that you pay for the fill up.
Lets say, it cost you 5 cents a kilowatt, I will pay you 10 cents a
kilowatt, which is a 100 percent markup. I have pull this several times
with my EV and they did not want my money. I slip them about two dollars any
way, which covers the amount of electricity.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV List Submissions" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 4:25 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Heading into Des Moines (big city) - where to charge?
> My 88 Mazda Solectria Conversion has been cruising now for just over a
> month 580 miles on the system and going strong. I live ~ 30 miles from
> Des Moines, IA, and plan to drive into the city this weekend. I
> probably have the range to get there and back, but I know that woudl
> slow me down towards the end, and stress the batteries. I'll be
> parking the car for the day and seeing sightseeing with some friends
> (who don't live there). I'll be parking the car in one sot for ~ 5
> hours - enough to get a good boost (Zivan NG3, 18x 8VGCHC)
>
> My question:
> What types of places have you had good luck with plugging in your car?
> I've never plugged in anywhere but home... I'm just a little scared.
>
>
> Andy
> Ames, IA
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 18:54:51 -0600
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I am not saying that Kelly controllers are good or bad I just know the guy
with that conversion and there other factors at this time that could be
impacting his speed.
For one the brushes are not worn in yet.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of Roger Stockton
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 5:36 PM
To: 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
Josh Creel wrote:
> Don't have a controller yet, I'm thinking of taking a chance
> on the new Kelly, but may go with the Curtis. Not sure yet,
> still trying to make up my mind. Like to have anyone's
> insight on this as well, although I've read a lot of
> opinions on this list already. :-)
Did you mention what pack voltage you are planning on?
If 72V or below, the AllTrax is a proven made-in-the-USA performer with a
fine pedigree (Alltrax used to make the respected DCP line of on-road
controllers).
Over 144V the only choice is the Zilla Z1k or Z2K.
Between 72 and 144V, you have a choice of Curtis, Kelly, or Zilla. You
can't go wrong with the Zilla, though it is a little pricier than the
others, especially if you're planning to stay in the 72-84 or 96V range.
The Kelly's don't yet have enough of a track record for me to try one or
feel comfortable recommending one, unfortunately; have to wait until reports
start coming in from those brave early adopters! ;^>
So far all I've seen is the one report from the fellow with the 72V Eagle
Talon NEV, and his report of underwhelming power might indicate that the
Kelly isn't able to deliver all the current it is claimed to (or perhaps
isn't able to sustain it for very long).
I'd lean toward a Curtis if I was planning to stay below 120V (i.e. 1221
territory) and an AllTrax for 72V or less. Once you're into Curtis 1231
territory, it is difficult not to use a Zilla Z1k instead for what little
premium is involved.
The Curtis seems to be a decent no-frills workhorse that will hold up OK if
you take a few basic steps to keep it dry; its biggest fault is the
low-speed whine of the C models. The Kelly might be just as good, but at
this point I don't think there are enough of them on the road to have an
idea of how close to spec they perform, how reliable they are, or how
painful it is to get warranty honoured when they do fail.
Cheers,
Roger.
_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 17:04:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Glenn Saunders <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Heading into Des Moines (big city) - where to
charge?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Did you have something else to do while the car was plugged in? It's not like
you can get in and out in 5 minutes.
----- Original Message ----
Hello Andy,
Very simply, just drive up to a gas station, and ask them how much will
it
cost to fill up my vehicle. They will say, depends how many gallons
you
take. You say, I do not use gallons. How about if I pay you double
the
amount that you pay for the fill up.
Lets say, it cost you 5 cents a kilowatt, I will pay you 10 cents a
kilowatt, which is a 100 percent markup. I have pull this several
times
with my EV and they did not want my money. I slip them about two
dollars any
way, which covers the amount of electricity.
Roland
------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2008 17:22:06 -0800
From: "Adrian DeLeon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; delsp=yes;
charset=iso-8859-15
>> You can get by without an ammeter as you say, only knowing
>> when the pack reaches dead at 1.75v/cell. But it will be
>> difficult to judge how much farther you can go.
> I'm not sure I understand how an ammeter would help in this regard
Easy... My controller lights an LED when it sees my battery pack hit
1.75V/cell. When accelerating from a stop I may see this LED flash. As the
%SOC drops, the LED will flash more often and at lower battery amps.
For a quick battery charge indication I press the accelerator just hard
enough to light this LED and glance at the battery amps. >300A? 250A? No
problem. If the LED lights at 200A or less I know it'll be a slow trip
home :)
In my case, the LED is a remote indication of battery voltage. You can do
the same thing by watching the battery voltage gauge while pressing the
accelerator. The LED just lets me keep both eyes on the road!
-Adrian
------------------------------
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 18:02:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] apologies
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
To the List:
Some of my mail settings got messed up and I had
some messages to the List go out with a CR/LF or something after each
word. This made each word appear on its own line. Very bizarre but I
think it's fixed now. Sorry!
Frank
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
------------------------------
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 02:02:53 GMT
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Heading into Des Moines (big city) - where to
charge?
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252
Tried to send this once....
http://www.iowadnr.com/energy/cleancities/
these folks should help you find a place to charge,,,,
_____________________________________________________________
Discount Online Trading - Click Now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2221/fc/Ioyw6i4tFWr1CluftFsi9Ct69looWvRpA5gDkVqm90iN0rMEMsxuhh/
------------------------------
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 18:16:45 -0800
From: Paul <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
Hi Roland,
You give the gear reduction but make the reader figure out your tire
size! I mention that because I got a couple of cars (an EV and a
conversion in progress) where the results are very different. The
Datsun has taller gears - but more motor rpm per MPH in each gear.
The VW Buggy has lower gears but less rpm per MPH in each gear. The
difference is tire size - the buggy runs P225/75R15 tires and the
Datsun P165/80R13 tires.
BTW - your tires are about 27.3 inches tall :-)
Paul
P.S. - I want to thank you for your contributions to this list.
> 1st gear ratio of 19.495:1 at 6000 rpm at 25 mph equals 161 motor
> amps at 65
> battery amps.
>
> 2nd gear ratio of 13.925:1 at 6000 rpm at 35 mph equals 230 motor
> amps at 75
> battery amps.
>
> 3rd gear ratio of 5.57:1 at 4000 rpm at 60 mph equals 300 motor
> amps with
> a battery ampere of 250 amps which is now becoming closer.
------------------------------
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 20:00:23 -0700
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Heading into Des Moines (big city) - where to
charge?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Some stations have a 50 amp receptacle for a welder. My batteries were
still above 60 SOC and charge them at 45 AC amps. I did a show and tell to a
group of people every time I do this and by the time I am done, in about 30
minutes, the batteries were at the maximum voltage which I normally stop the
charge there and do not wait for the additional time out or for the current
to taper back.
The gasoline stations was not the only place I done this. One was a tire
and alignment place, another was a auto body paint shop, a auto parts and
repair store, and a air conditional service place and drove the EV right
into the Sams Club and charge it while picking up about 1000 lbs of
equipment.
Just make sure when you do this, take a lot AC adapters with you and display
your high voltage signs so people do not have a tendency to touch the
batteries like they with there 12 volt battery.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Saunders" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Heading into Des Moines (big city) - where to charge?
> Did you have something else to do while the car was plugged in? It's not
> like you can get in and out in 5 minutes.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> Hello Andy,
>
> Very simply, just drive up to a gas station, and ask them how much will
> it
> cost to fill up my vehicle. They will say, depends how many gallons
> you
> take. You say, I do not use gallons. How about if I pay you double
> the
> amount that you pay for the fill up.
>
> Lets say, it cost you 5 cents a kilowatt, I will pay you 10 cents a
> kilowatt, which is a 100 percent markup. I have pull this several
> times
> with my EV and they did not want my money. I slip them about two
> dollars any
> way, which covers the amount of electricity.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 18
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 19:06:00 -0800
From: "David Nelson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Paul,
On Feb 5, 2008 6:16 PM, Paul <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Roland,
>
> You give the gear reduction but make the reader figure out your tire
> size! I mention that because I got a couple of cars (an EV and a
> conversion in progress) where the results are very different. The
> Datsun has taller gears - but more motor rpm per MPH in each gear.
> The VW Buggy has lower gears but less rpm per MPH in each gear. The
> difference is tire size - the buggy runs P225/75R15 tires and the
> Datsun P165/80R13 tires.
>
> BTW - your tires are about 27.3 inches tall :-)
>
> Paul
>
He mentioned his tire circumference to be 90in in a previeous email in
this discussion.
--
David D. Nelson
http://evalbum.com/1328
------------------------------
Message: 19
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 19:25:11 -0800 (PST)
From: minhd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] battery tab welding
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I spoke with Aaron from http://sunstoneengineering.com/site/pages/products .
He explained that their CD welder do have a pulse width setting to cut off
the tail end of the weld pulse. This produces an inverter like square wave
energy pulse.
I understand now that the inverter welders are the ideal tool to use for
welding tabs onto the cells reliably without causing damage to the cells.
Thanks for all your insightful comments.
Steven Ciciora wrote:
>
> While an inverter welder is by far the best way to
> weld tabs onto cells, I'd say that a home made cap.
> discharge welder is a _lot_ better than soldering.
> But for me, after seeing the results of countless
> different attempts at cell interconnects, I wouldn't
> consider anything but an inverter welder for any pack
> larger than a dozen cells or more. That's all I am
> willing to risk with unproven methods. On YouTube
> there are several videos of different welding
> techniques. Derek has some videos of using an
> inverter welder. I hear there are videos of home made
> cap discharge welders making up A123 packs for RC
> cars. Our battlepack NiCd pack for our battle bot was
> soldered to cells, but quickly "frosted", indicating
> cell damage. Early versions of the Killacycle (using
> boulder cells) were not reliable until the battery
> manufacture supplied sub modules with copper braid
> (inverter) spot welded to each cell. Bill tried
> several soldering techniques, pressure contacts, etc.
> with various levels of failure.
>
> There are several web sites showing how to home brew a
> cap discharge welder using large SCRs or Triacs. It
> would be interesting to try one with two sets of SCRs.
> One to turn on the welding pulse, and one to short
> out the cap bank after the welding is done, to reduce
> the long tail. But since I know people with inverter
> welders, trying this personally is a bit low on my
> project list.
>
> - Steven Ciciora
>
>
> --- Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> The goal is to minimize cell terminal heating.
>>
>> The temperature of the terminal is determined by the
>> number of joules
>> (watt-seconds) that you inject into it by ohmic
>> heating.
>>
>> You need to melt a tiny nugget of metal to attach
>> the tab to the
>> cell. Thus, you put a huge current concentrated in a
>> tiny spot for a
>> very brief duration. This raises the temperature of
>> the tiny spot to
>> melting, but puts a minimum number of watt-seconds
>> into the terminal.
>>
>> The inverter welder outputs a square pulse. A
>> capacitor welder puts
>> out a pulse with a long tail. Once the nugget is
>> molten, you want to
>> cut off the current immediately. The area under the
>> "tail" portion of
>> the curve on a capacitance welder heats the crap out
>> of the cell terminal.
>>
>> If you use the proper welder, the terminal just gets
>> a little warm to
>> the touch.
>>
>> I suppose you might be able to figure out some other
>> way to make a
>> reliable, fast, and inexpensive (in large
>> quantities) connection
>> without heating the cell terminal. However, this
>> method exists, is
>> tested and proven, and is not that expensive to set
>> up using Ebay
>> equipment. (We bought our welding stuff for about
>> $2100 on Ebay.)
>>
>> Bill Dube'
>> At 09:09 PM 2/3/2008, you wrote:
>>
>> >Please elaborate. Why does CD(capacitive
>> discharge) welding cause cell
>> >damage? Is it due to the need to minimize heating
>> to the battery housing?
>> >If the duration of heat application needs to be
>> minimized, then perhaps
>> >using a silver solder as Roland suggested could
>> minimize the needed heat to
>> >braze the tab to the cell. Both CD and inverter
>> welding methods produce a
>> >lot of heat over a short duration.
>> >
>> >Does anyone know if the K2 cells or the Headway
>> cells have the same tab
>> >welding issue? Has anyone try to weld tabs to K2
>> or Headway cells? If yes,
>> >please help me understand the process and equipment
>> involved?
>> >
>> >Regards,
>> >Minh
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >Dan Frederiksen-2 wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Bill Dube wrote:
>> > >> You need an inverter type welder that is
>> capable of 4,000 amps. You
>> > >> can fudge this down a bit, and get away with
>> 3700 amps and a bit
>> > >> longer duration, but it MUST be an inverter
>> welder, not a capacitive
>> > >> discharge welder.
>> > >>
>> > >
>> > > why not?
>> > >
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > For subscription options, see
>> > > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >--
>> >View this message in context:
>>
>>http://www.nabble.com/battery-tab-welding-tp15258522p15261818.html
>> >Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List
>> mailing list archive
>> >at Nabble.com.
>> >
>> >_______________________________________________
>> >For subscription options, see
>> >http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> For subscription options, see
>> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>
--
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/battery-tab-welding-tp15258522p15304724.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
------------------------------
Message: 20
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 20:55:39 -0700
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
The formula is:
Mph=(rpm x tire circumference)/(overall ratio x 1056)
26.2 mph =(6000 x 90)/(19.495 x 1056)
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Nelson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
> Paul,
>
> On Feb 5, 2008 6:16 PM, Paul <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Hi Roland,
> >
> > You give the gear reduction but make the reader figure out your tire
> > size! I mention that because I got a couple of cars (an EV and a
> > conversion in progress) where the results are very different. The
> > Datsun has taller gears - but more motor rpm per MPH in each gear.
> > The VW Buggy has lower gears but less rpm per MPH in each gear. The
> > difference is tire size - the buggy runs P225/75R15 tires and the
> > Datsun P165/80R13 tires.
> >
> > BTW - your tires are about 27.3 inches tall :-)
> >
> > Paul
> >
>
> He mentioned his tire circumference to be 90in in a previeous email in
> this discussion.
>
> --
> David D. Nelson
>
> http://evalbum.com/1328
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 21
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 23:59:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GAUGES FOR MY EV?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Lee Hart wrote:
>> You can get by without an ammeter... But it will be
>> difficult to judge how much farther you can go.
From: Roger Stockton
>I'm not sure I understand how an ammeter would help in this regard
I didn't word that very well. What I meant was that with only a voltmeter, you
only know when the pack is full (2.14v/cell at no load, when you started), or
dead (1.75v/cell under load, at the end). It can read anything in between, and
any state of charge.
An ammeter lets you guesstimate state of charge. "It sagged 5 volts at 100
amps; that's about 50% state of charge".
>> You will also have trouble charging, unless you have a fully
>> automatic (and trustworthy) charger.
> Hmmm... that's an interesting one. I'd have to say that you and
> I have been using E-Meters for long enough to take having a digital
> ammeter for granted. Clearly, an analog ammeter useful at traction
> level currents (i.e. 500A minimum full-scale) is not going to be
> particularly informative at charging level currents (typically <20A).
You're right for a cheap ammeter; its finest gradations are typically 5% of
full scale (0-500a with marks every 25a). Good ones are 2%, or even 1% for a
270 deg. sweep movement (like one from a tachometer), i.e. marks every 5a for
500a full-scale.
You can make an ammeter read both positive (charging) and negative (driving)
currents just by offsetting the zero adjust screw.
The slickest setup is to connect one meter to two shunts; one for charging and
one for driving. For example, suppose your meter is marked 0-500a and is really
0-50mv (the standard setup). Connect a 500a 50mv shunt from pack+ to
controller+. Connect a 50a shunt from charger+ to pack+. Connect the meter from
charger+ to controller+. Now it reads the *total* drop across both shunts.
- While driving, the charging current is zero; so the meter reads
0-500a driving current.
- While charging, the controller current is zero, so the meter reads
charging current. Because the charging shunt is 50a, zero to full
scale on the meter represents 0-50 amps.
You just have to remember that charging and driving have different scales (or
mark the meter face with one scale for driving 0-500a, and one for charging
0-50a).
> One thing people should bear in mind is that just because a meter
> indicates digitally doesn't necesarily mean it is any more accurate
> than an analog meter.
Absolutely. Resolution is not accuracy! There are plenty of cheap digital
meters that will tell you the voltage is 3.579v when it's really 4v! I have a
variety of analog and digital meters. My most accurate ones are a Fluke 8020A
(digital) and an ancient Simpson 260 (analog). The others display various
random values scattered around the true value depending on temperature, the
condition of their battery, etc.
The only thing new is the history you don't know yet. -- Harry Truman
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart-at-earthlink.net
------------------------------
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 10:21:23 -0500
From: "Deanne Mott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Accelerator problem
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
We found the problem with the accelerator. This one is going high on
the list of dumb things we've done to the car. My husband figured out
that somewhere along the way of changing out the accessory battery
that he forgot to put back the wire from the DC-DC converter back on
the battery. That's what I get for letting him work on the car
unsupervised :-) His dept is mechanical things, mine electrical, and
the battery had other things mounted to it so he did that part. The
battery was getting drained fast and not getting charged back up. The
other confusing factor is that around the same time, the 12V gauge
quit (actually, fell out onto the floor of the car). He bought a new
one and stuck it in - and it was reading lower than the old. I
decided the guage was funny and did not trust it. Doh! Now it's
reading like the old one did.
So back on the road - it's 70 degrees in NC today so a wonderful day
to be driving a electric Cabriolet...
thanks - De
> > Today I tried to debug my accelerator problem, where intermittantly
> > the Go pedal does not work at all. It's not easy to get to anything,
> > so first I tried replacing my 12V accessory battery with a deep cycle
> > one. This actually helped a great deal. I drove around quite a bit,
> > and only had two instances where the accelerator did not work. In
> > both cases I had the headlights on AND the turn signal. It's possible
> > the vacuum pump was going too, but I can't be sure. I'm not sure if
> > the deep cycle battery itself helped, or just that it was just freshly
> > charged up. I did not have a voltmeter attached to anything so I
> > don't know the real voltage at the time of failure.
> >
> > So this seems to be voltage related. I feel OK driving it for now,
> > but what in the potbox/contactor/controller setup would be this
> > sensitive to the 12V voltage?
> >
> > Thanks - De
> >
------------------------------
Message: 23
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 10:09:34 -0600
From: "Bradley Lindberg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Delta-Q Charger
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi,
I have an QuiQ 7212 charger purchased on eBay. It is model number
910-7200 and serial number DQCP720420001355 . It came from a Dodge dealer
and was originally made for a GEM NEV. The label states 150-400AH Lead-Acid
36 cell batteries. I know it is a 72 volt charger.
My question is what type of lead acid battery is this programmed for? Is
it flooded,AGM,or gel? Any insight will be appreciated.
Thanks, Brad
------------------------------
Message: 24
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2008 11:03:29 -0500
From: Chuck Homic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] apologies
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
I thought it was some kind of poetic device.
Frank John wrote:
> To the List:
>
> Some of my mail settings got messed up and I had
> some messages to the List go out with a CR/LF or something after each
> word. This made each word appear on its own line. Very bizarre but I
> think it's fixed now. Sorry!
>
> Frank
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Looking for last minute shopping deals?
> Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
> http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 25
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2008 10:22:22 -0600
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Heading into Des Moines (big city) - where to
charge?
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> What types of places have you had good luck with plugging in your car?
> I've never plugged in anywhere but home... I'm just a little scared.
I've successfully plugged in almost anywhere.
In the northern states I've lived in (Michigan, New York, and now
Minnesota), free outdoor AC outlets are common. They are normally used
for block heaters for cars parked outside in cold weather. They are
always right next to parking places, and nobody cares if you use them.
They are most common at commercial parking lots where customers are
likely to park long periods, like motels, movie theaters, etc.
Failing this, there are almost always outdoor outlets for Christmas tree
lights, pop machines, garden tools, and other purposes. Every place I've
lived has had building codes that require outdoor outlets. Before using
these outlets, I ask first, and am rarely refused. When I am, it's
usually some lazy low-level employee who doesn't want to make a decision
or bother the boss to ask.
Normally, people are *interested* in EVs. If you schmooze them a bit,
give them a tour, and put on a good show, they are more than happy to
help. I have a kilowatthour meter in the car, and can show them how much
(or rather, how little) electricity it's using. I always try to pay
them, but it's always less than $1 worth, and they refuse.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
------------------------------
Message: 26
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 12:37:34 -0600
From: "Morgan LaMoore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Max motor voltage? (Jim Husted)
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Hi,
I've got a motor that's rated at 48-96V. I'd love to use a 120-144V
system for better performance, but I don't know how the motor will
handle it.
The motor I'm using is a 6.7" ADC from Surplus Center. ADC said it's
electrically identical to the K91-4003, whose specs are here:
http://www.evparts.com/prod-MT2113.htm
Ideally I would like to leave it with neutral timing for efficiency
reasons, but I can advance the timing if it's necessary.
Before installing it, I plan on opening it up to both take a good look
at it mechanically and to attach a thermistor or two for temperature
monitoring. (I know the surface of the coil isn't as hot as the center
of the coil, but it's got to be a lot better than the motor case!)
I've heard of the 30 volts per commutator bar rule, but I don't know
what other limits there are or how advanced timing affects it (other
than that it allows higher voltages).
Thanks!
-Morgan LaMoore
------------------------------
Message: 27
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 10:40:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Interesting EV I just found
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
http://www.theishoes.com/products.html
Electric shoes!!
------------------------------
Message: 28
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 10:03:14 -0800 (PST)
From: paul holmes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] battery tab welding
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Steven Ciciora wrote:
>
> While an inverter welder is by far the best way to
> weld tabs onto cells, I'd say that a home made cap.
> discharge welder is a _lot_ better than soldering.
> But for me, after seeing the results of countless
> different attempts at cell interconnects, I wouldn't
> consider anything but an inverter welder for any pack
> larger than a dozen cells or more.
>
I made a homemade SCR (200v, 300amp) based CD welder using 2 1.8farad car
stereo caps in series. I charge it through a 2.5 ohm, 40 watt resistor (4
10ohm in parallel). My left foot pushes a normally off switch to on that
charges it. (I have a volt meter hooked up to show the state of the caps).
The right foot button discharges as soon as it's pushed, and when I release
it, it stops discharging. It takes about a second to discharge completely
into a nickel tab. I usually push it for about 0.2 seconds, and it gives a
good weld, and it hasn't felt hot when I touch it.
I weld old Li-Ion batteries from laptops into packs, and it seems ok. The
only problem I've encountered is when impurities get on my electrodes (the
tips "pop"), which are just heavy copper from home depot, that I resharpen
every few welds. Total cost under $100, but it is annoying to resharpen the
electrodes.
-Paul
--
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/battery-tab-welding-tp15258522p15309335.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
------------------------------
Message: 29
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 10:14:01 -0800 (PST)
From: captain-pete <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Ni-Cad Batteries
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
captain-pete wrote:
>
>
>
> Josh and Jenifer wrote:
>>
>> I have a friend of mine that has a surplus of NiCad batteries that were
>> from a surplus auction from the military, he thinks that they are
>> 1500amp. they come in stainless steel cases wired up for 24vdc. does
>> anyone know anything about these? he said that they got two pickup truck
>> loads of the things, so of course i was wondering if i can use them in
>> my EV conversion..... what do you think?
>>
>> I'm not sure what kind of shape their in or if they can be made to work,
>> they were military surplus, and he probably got them 15 years ago, I
>> would like to get somemore info on them. the 24VDC pack had 20 single
>> cells in them and he said that it was suppose to be 1500amps, but i'm
>> not sure about that. he also said there was a company in FL. that
>> refurbished them, but i'll also have to find out about that. If they
>> are any good (I'm going to check them out) I'm sure he'll sell all he's
>> got pretty cheap....
>>
>> could use any input anyones got.
>>
>
> Actually if they are wired for 24 volts there will be 19 cells per case at
> a weight of approx 80 lbs per case and could actually have been built in
> the late 50's to early 1960's with a peak short circuit current of 1000
> amp per case. Potassium Hydroxide is the electrolite used
> within the cells. each cell has such a low internal resistance that these
> cases can be fully charged in about an hour if you have the current
> available to charge at that rate, which would be about 40 amp per case. I
> don't know how well they will work in your application but I've been using
> around 1000 lbs of these same cases as described above now for over 18
> years in a 48 foot Yacht that I own and would love to find a source for
> more of these cases. One other note and that is that a good number of
> these were built by the Saft battery company, and I also have a 400 amp 30
> volt aircraft/starter generator mounted to my diesel that supplies the
> needed current to charge 10 of these 24 volt cases in about an hour, one
> more thing and that's the inrush current needed for a completely drained
> case could be as much as 10 times there rated amp hour capacity. I hope
> this is of some use to you and helps with your decision in deciding to use
> this type of battery.
>
--
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/Ni-Cad-Batteries-tp14521849p15286585.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
------------------------------
Message: 30
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 10:16:57 -0800 (PST)
From: captain-pete <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Ni-Cad Batteries
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Josh and Jenifer wrote:
>
> I have a friend of mine that has a surplus of NiCad batteries that were
> from a surplus auction from the military, he thinks that they are
> 1500amp. they come in stainless steel cases wired up for 24vdc. does
> anyone know anything about these? he said that they got two pickup truck
> loads of the things, so of course i was wondering if i can use them in my
> EV conversion..... what do you think?
>
> I'm not sure what kind of shape their in or if they can be made to work,
> they were military surplus, and he probably got them 15 years ago, I
> would like to get somemore info on them. the 24VDC pack had 20 single
> cells in them and he said that it was suppose to be 1500amps, but i'm not
> sure about that. he also said there was a company in FL. that refurbished
> them, but i'll also have to find out about that. If they are any good
> (I'm going to check them out) I'm sure he'll sell all he's got pretty
> cheap....
>
> could use any input anyones got.
>
Actually if they are wired for 24 volts there will be 19 cells per case at a
weight of approx 80 lbs per case and could actually have been built in the
late 50's to early 1960's with a peak short circuit current of 1000 amp per
case. Potassium Hydroxide is the electrolite used
within the cells. each cell has such a low internal resistance that these
cases can be fully charged in about an hour if you have the current
available to charge at that rate, which would be about 40 amp per case. I
don't know how well they will work in your application but I've been using
around 1000 lbs of these same cases as described above now for over 18 years
in a 48 foot Yacht that I own and would love to find a source for more of
these cases. One other note and that is that a good number of these were
built by the Saft battery company, and I also have a 400 amp 30 volt
aircraft/starter generator mounted to my diesel that supplies the needed
current to charge 10 of these 24 volt cases in about an hour, one more thing
and that's the inrush current needed for a completely drained case could be
as much as 10 times there rated amp hour capacity. I hope this is of some
use to you and helps with your decision in deciding to use this type of
battery.
--
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/Ni-Cad-Batteries-tp14521849p15286281.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
------------------------------
Message: 31
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2008 11:21:27 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Interesting EV I just found
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; DelSp="Yes";
format="flowed"
> http://www.theishoes.com/products.html
>
> Electric shoes!!
Looks very fun, but that 3mi range is a killer, and 2 hrs to recharge
for A123 cells doesn't put the technology to best use. If you want
little-wheeled EVs, go for something like http://www.e-glide.com/ -
same price, more range, higher top speed, bit more of a thrill factor
(nothing holding you on), or save even more natural resources and just
walk! Makes me think of how the Japanese compete for silliest
invention (like a hat that holds a roll of TP so you can easily wipe
your nose during cold season).
------------------------------
Message: 32
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 21:47:12 +0200
From: "Kaido Kert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Spark-EV's Zotye
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
On Jan 16, 2008 6:04 PM, Steven ** <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I just found this company today. Anyone familiar with Spark EV? Seen
> the latest model called Zotye? http://www.spark-ev.com/zotye.html
ABG now reports this thing is sold out:
http://www.autobloggreen.com/2008/02/06/demand-for-zotye-the-20-000-highway-speed-electric-suv-mu/
/kert
------------------------------
_______________________________________________
EV@lists.sjsu.edu
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
End of EV Digest, Vol 7, Issue 9
********************************
