Sounds great Marek! I used to love a day in the ocean. Never considered before how surfers sit on their boards waiting for a set, and in the Winter that gets cold. I used to boogie board in the Winter, but that meant standing and waiting for a wave much closer in. In fact never dared to go in further than about mid-thigh during a storm, since Boogies aren't much in the open ocean.
I remember once at a beach near Half Moon Bay, I was coming out of the water and the swells were so strong that one broke, and the water was moving so fast sloping up the beach, only about an inch deep, but it knocked me off my feet! I popped the zipper on my suit awhile back. I oughta get it repaired. --- In FairfieldLife@yahoogroups.com, "marekreavis" <reavismarek@...> wrote: > > Yesterday (1.16.12) air temp was 44 degrees, water temp five degrees warmer > than that, but still cold enough that my hands, even in 5-mil thick gloves, > were numb in just a few minutes and trading comments with my buddy as we sat > on our boards waiting for a set became a hopeless attempt to form coherent > sounds through stiff, uncooperative lips. > > But it was a glorious day, all the same, sunny and bright with (undoubtedly > snide) comments from the Aleutian cackling geese watching from the two peaks > of Camel Rock occasionally reaching our ears through the steady crash and > roar of the waves. > > We surfed for about an hour-and-a-half on the slack tide, caught many > unspectacular but exhilarating waves, before calling it a day. There are > about 130-140 stairs dug into the hillside that deliver you from the point > overlook to the beach and when we got to the top, as we almost always do, we > stopped and turned to look back at the break and marvel at how perfect it all > was -- is. > > We pulled ourselves out of our wetsuits, loaded up our boards, and walked > back over one more time to gaze down at the waves and the surfers for another > few minutes. I took a quick photo from my phone and will post it in an album > after writing this. > > Nothing more than that; no more meaning than that. >
