<<Some clothing from 1660ish still had vibrant tones but at the time I
hadn't done
much natural dyeing so I can't even guess what had been used.>>

That's one of the problems -- many of the brilliant colors (and more
longlasting ones) used by professional dyers in the past were achieved with
mordants that are highly toxic and in some cases, illegal.

I've looked at a *lot* of old textiles, ranging from prehistoric to 19c
(with an emphasis on 16 -18c) and seen a full range: brilliant color that
hasn't faded a bit, to mud brown and dull grey.

Much depends on its use, care over the years (washing/cleaning as well as
exposure to light), fiber (many colors are less fugitive in silk),
subsequent use and restoration (much repair and "restoration" of tapestries
in particular went on in the 17 - 18c), air pollution, climate, etc. as
well as the original dyeing.

Many of those magnificent tapestries were hung on walls opposite large
windows (available light used to be a *lot* more important!)

Deborah



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