My method is very similar (even to using the same printer), except that I
staple first and then fold.  I've got the paper guide on my long-arm stapler
carefully set so that the staples enter precisely at the midpoint of the
booklet (8.5" in my case, as I use 11"x17" paper for booklets).  Folding is
much easier when the part is already stapled, and I'm very picky about the
precision of the fold (BTW, at one time I used 3 staples per booklet, but
have found that 2 staples, placed appr. 1.75" from the top and bottom edges,
are far superior).

I use this format for most parts, and reduced scores up to 36 pages (9
sheets of heavyweight 105 g/m2 paper, plus a heavy stock cover, which is
about the limit my stapler can handle).  As you mention, a heavy duty
precision rotary trimmer is a must, though I find that trimming isn't really
necessary until the part reaches maybe 16 pages, as page creep isn't
particularly objectionable on smaller parts.

Most of my full scores are 11"x14", which I bind myself using an Akiles
Coil-Mac and a supply of 36" plastic coils; so far, 3 different sizes of
coils (8mm, 10mm, and 12mm) have been adequate to handle all my scores from
smallest to largest (140+ pages -- no operas yet).  There are several
advantages to investing in the equipment to bind your scores yourself
instead of taking them to a place like Kinko's, not the least of which is
that they typically only carry 12" coils -- not ideal for larger conductor's
scores.  For other reasons not to go to Kinko's, fill in your favorite
horror story here: _____________ (everyone who's been to a Kinko's has one).

I am intrigued by your method of stapling, as my stapler (like many) turns
back the legs of the staple so they're curved, and I'd really prefer them to
be flat against the paper.  Or I could look into a heavy duty saddle
stapler, but they tend to be kind of expensive (starting at $150-$200).

One other tip on folding: to ensure that a part lays flat on a music stand,
it's critical to fold and crease the pages in the opposite direction to the
original fold.  I also go through the part page by page and crease each
fold.

Lee Actor
Composer-in-Residence and Assistant Conductor, Palo Alto Philharmonic
Assistant Conductor, Nova Vista Symphony
http://www.leeactor.com


>
> I wonder whether there would be interest to start a discussion about
> printing, binding and finishing scores and parts.
>
> Just to start this let me describe what I typically do.
>
> I have a HP 5000 printer, so I can print large sheets pretty easily. So
> I prepare all my scores and parts as PDF booklets (I use CocoaBooklet,
> but I believe this would even work through Acrobat itself, it is just
> easier using this Mac Application).
>
> I fold the sheets over. I have started to do this in bunches of four.
> I'd love to hear how others do this. I use my paper cutter as an
> alignment tool.
>
> I then staple using a long arm stapler, and I have recently modified it,
> so that the staples are not bent but instead go through the paper and
> two holes in the stapler (which I drilled), then I bend them over
> myself. This works much better in my experience, especially with thicker
> booklets.
>
> Eventually I trim the front. I just bought a rather big and sturdy paper
> cutter for this purpose. If I don't do this, in addition to the
> unprofessional look, page turns can become difficult at times.
>
> I'd love to hear from others about some tips they have accumulated over
> the years. I am especially interested hearing about better methods to
> fold the sheets.
>
> Johannes
> _______________________________________________
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> [email protected]
> http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
>

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