First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
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Ed,
I hope everything is properly greased. Many of these kits are greased as
provided, so I expect you are okay there. Still, repack the bearings with a
high performance grease while this is all open to you. Spin the rotor as you
tighten the castle nut. As the wrench snugs up, you are close. I don't recall
the specs off-hand, but it was not much, maybe 20 or 25 pounds on the end of
your wrench. Hand-tight. The drum or rotor shoud be turning as you tighten
down. An ASME mechanic will correct me soon, lol. Once it's tight, you back
off to the next cotter pin spot. New cotter pin every time since this holds
your wheels on.
Back off to the next keyway. Bearings don't need to be tight, but they can't
be loose either. If it's off-shore bearings in the kit, I would look for new
bearings as a solution if you have problems.
I've never seen a situation where I was between the castle nut keyways that
cause an problem with wheel bearings. I have been over cautious and
undertightened with the result of front end vibration. Another adjustment
tighter corrected that.
Larry
Eddie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
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I hope someone can help me. I am coverting my drum brakes to disc on my 67
Firebird. The kit I bought is for my drum brake wheels (JC code). If you
look at the pics I took, the castle nut is only finger tight and it sits way
too far in for me to be able to put the cotter pin in correctly. I called
the company who said they only sell about 30 kits a year and they really
can't help me. So now I'm stuck at this point. Is it possible to add
another washer or 2 to shim it out? Has anyone seen this before? Thanks in
advance for any help you can give me.
Eddie Lubinsky
New Tripoli, PA
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